USTR 


- 


&ERKEIEY 

LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF 
CALIFORhHA 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

AGRICULTURE 
BEQUEST 

OF 
ANITA  D.  S.  BLAKE 


MISS    PARLOA'S 


KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


A    GUIDE  FOR  ALL    WHO    WOULD  BE 
GOOD    HOUSEKEEPERS. 


BY 


MARIA    PARLOA, 

FOUNDER    OF    THE    ORIGINAL   COOKING-SCHOOL    IN     BOSTON  ;    PRINCIPAL 
OF   THE   SCHOOL   OF   COOKERY    IN    NEW    YORK;    AND   AUTHOR    OF 

"MISS  PARLOA'S  NEW  COOK-BOOK,"  "THE   APPLEDORE 

COOK-BOOK,"  "  FIRST  PRINCIPLES  OF  HOUSEHOLD 

MANAGEMENT,"  "  CAMP  COOKERY,"  ETC. 


ILLUSTRATED. 


BOSTON: 
ESTES     AND      LAURIAT. 


Copyright,  1887, 
BY  MARIA  PARLOA, 


AGRICUI.TI  IRE 

GIFT 


SHntfartattg 
JOHN  WILSON  AND  SON,  CAMBRIDGE. 


PREFACE. 


A  LARGE  part  of  my  leisure  time  in  the  last  few  years 
has  been  passed  in  working  on  this  book,  which  it  has 
been  my  ambition  to  make  of  real  and  lasting  value  to 
all  who  may  use  it.  Those  who  are  familiar  with  my 
other  cook-books  will  see  that  this  one  contains  not 
only  many  hundred  new  receipts,  but  a  number  of 
chapters  on  important  subjects  treated  only  briefly,  if 
at  all,  in  my  earlier  works.  My  publishers'  liberality 
in  regard  to  illustrations  and  the  size  of  the  book  has 
enabled  me  to  give  a  more  comprehensive  volume  than 
it  has  ever  before  been  my  privilege  to  prepare,  and 
one  which  I  hope  may  be  found  a  trusty  guide  for  all 
who  are  travelling  on  the  road  to  good  housekeeping. 

To  two  things  let  me  call  special  attention:  First, 
do  not  undertake  to  cook  a  new  dish  until  you  have 
carefully  read  the  receipt  at  least  once ;  and  secondly, 
do  not  be  discouraged  by  failure  in  first  experiments. 

By  means  of  the  asterisk  (*)  ths  plain  receipts  have 
been  distinguished  from  those  for  rich  food ;  therefore 
housekeepers  in  search  of  the  former  can  find  them  at 
a  glance. 


139 


iv  PREFACE. 


To  quote  from  the  preface  of  my  last  work :  "  After 
much  consideration  it  was  decided  to  be  right  to  call 
particular  attention  in  different  parts  of  the  book  to 
certain  manufactured  articles.  Lest  her  motive  should 
be  misconstrued,  or  unfair  criticisms  be  made,  the  author 
would  state  that  there  is  not  a  word.of  praise  which  is 
not  merited,  and  every  line  of  commendation  appears 
utterly  without  the  solicitation,  suggestion,  or  knowledge 
of  anybody  likely  to  receive  pecuniary  benefit  there- 
from." This  statement  applies  to  the  present  book  as 
well  as  to  the  last. 


That  the  KITCHEN  COMPANION  may  prove  a  welcome 
visitor  to  thousands  of  households  throughout  the  land, 
is  the  parting  wish  with  which  it  is  sent  before  the 
public. 

M.  P. 

NEW  YORK,  March,  1887. 


CONTENTS. 


AN   IDEAL   KITCHEN. 

PAOB 

Plans  to  attain  the  greatest  convenience.  —  Where  the  pantry, 
china-closet,  and  storerooms  should  be  located 9 

KITCHEN   FURNISHING. 

A  list  of  articles  needed.  —  Descriptions  of  many  new  and  useful 
inventions 29 

CARE   OF   UTENSILS. 
How  to  keep  them  in  good  condition  for  years 58 

ABOUT   FOOD. 

Advice  in  regard  to  marketing  and  gardening.  —  When  various 
articles  of  food  are  in  their  prime. —  Canned  goods  ...  66 

SOUPS. 

Best  methods  of  obtaining  stock.  —  Processes  of  clarifying.  — 
More  than  a  hundred  receipts  for  soups 104 

FISH. 

How  to  clean  it.  —  Directions  for  filleting.  —  Many  excellent 
modes  of  cooking 170 

VARIOUS   MODES   OF   COOKING  MEAT. 

Boiling,  broiling,  frying,  and  roasting.  —  Valuable  advice  to 
young  housekeepers,  and  helpful  reminders  for  those  that 
are  experienced 232 


vi  CONTENTS. 


ENTREES. 

PAGE 
A  great  variety  of  toothsome  dishes.  —  Croquettes,  timbales, 

fritters,  patties,  vol-au-vents,  etc 307 

CHEESE   DISHES. 

Numerous  good  ways  to  cook  cheese.  —  How  rare-bits,  puffs, 
straws,  and  other  dainties  are  made 399 

DISHES  OF   EGGS. 

Why  eggs  are  often  indigestible.  —  The  right  way  to  boil  them. 

—  The  art  of  making  an  omelet 406 

SALADS. 

Delicacies  which  every  housekeeper  should  provide.  —  Full  in- 
formation about  all  kinds 426 

GARNISHES. 

Ways  to  improve  the  appearance  of  soups  and  dishes  of  fish 
and  meat 440 

MEAT  AND  FISH   SAUCES. 

A  branch  of  cookery  with  which  all  housekeepers  should  be 
familiar.  —  Numerous  receipts  for  old  and  new  sauces  .  .  462 

VEGETABLES. 

When  various  kinds  are  best,  and  how  they  may  be  most  pala- 
tably cooked  and  appropriately  served 489 

SPECIAL   ARTICLES. 

Brioche  paste.  — Curry-powder  and  its  uses.  — Various  ways  of 
using  a  calfs  head.  —  The  warming  over  of  meats.  —  A  boiled 
dinner.  —  A  salt-fish  dinner 546 

A  GROUP  OF  SIMPLE   DISHES. 

die-cakes,  mush,  toast,  short-cake,  and  other  good  things 
for  breakfast  and  tea    .     .  569 


CONTENTS.  vii 


PIES. 

PAGE 

Puff  paste  and  plain  paste,  and  what  each  is  used  for.  —  Mince- 
meat. —  Pies  and  tarts 584 

PUDDINGS. 

Many  kinds,  both  hot  and  cold,  and  excellent  sauces  to  go 
with  them 603 

DESSERT. 

Ice-cream,  sherbet,  jellies,  and  many  other  delicacies      .    .    .    674 

CAKE. 

Plain  and  rich  kinds  in  abundance.  —  Directions  for  making 
and  using  icing 742 

BREAD,   ROLLS,    AND   MUFFINS. 

An  important  department.  —  Advice  about  yeast,  and  receipts 
for  bread  in  all  its  forms 780 

BEVERAGES. 

The  cup  that  cheers.  — Why  it  is  often  disappointing,  —  Ap- 
proved ways  of  making  coffee,  chocolate,  and  cocoa  .  .  .  818 

PRESERVING. 

When  it  should  be  done.  —  The  utensils  needed. — How  various 
kinds  of  pickles  are  made 827 

FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK. 

What  to  provide,  and  the  best  modes  of  serving.  —  Receipts 
for  gruels  and  kindred  things,  besides  dainties  to  arouse  an 
appetite 852 

WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW. 

Points  which  will  help  one  to  avoid  failures  and  disappoint- 
ment, to  economize,  and  to  do  many  perplexing  things 
quickly  and  well 87; 


Vlii  CONTENTS. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 

PAGE 
An  extensive  collection,  suited  to  all  occasions,  — What  to  serve 

at  weddings,  parties,  gentlemen's  suppers,  etc. — Thanks- 
giving, Christmas,  and  Lenten  fare 898 

INDEX 915 


NOTE. 

The  receipts  which  are  starred  (*)  are  for  simple  dishes. 


MISS    PARLOA'S 
KITCHEN    COMPANION 


AN    IDEAL    KITCHEN. 

How  few  people  who  build  houses  give  proper  atten- 
tion to  the  plan  and  construction  of  the  kitchen  !  Pains 
may  be  taken  to  have  the  exterior  of  the  building  attrac- 
tive, the  halls  broad,  the  parlors  spacious  and  finely  fin- 
ished, the  dining-room  bright  and  inviting,  the  chambers 
airy  and  sunny,  but  the  plan  of  the  kitchen  generally 
receives  much  less  thought  than  its  importance  deserves, 
if  one  be  seeking  to  make  the  house  as  nearly  perfect  as 
is  practicable.  The  trouble  is  not  wholly  due  to  UI-K 
willingness  to  expend  more  money  than  may  have  been 
at  first  appropriated.  A  little  extra  thought  alone  is 
needed  to  effect  many  improvements  on  the  average 
kitchen  when  a  house  is  in  process  of  construction,  but 
this  extra  thought  usually  is  missing.  Of  course,  in 
order  to  have  a  model  kitchen,  one  must  be  willing  to 
pay  a  good  price  for  it ;  yet  the  price  will  not  be  so  high 
that  one  will  ever  regret  the  expenditure ;  indeed,  most 
persons  will  promptly  admit  that  the  money  has  been 
used  as  profitably  as  that  used  for  any  other  part  of 
the  house.  The  object  of  this  chapter  is  to  show  how 
a  model  kitchen  may  be  arranged;  and  although  few 
people  may  adopt  the  recommendations  as  a  whole,  it 


10 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BAC_K OOOB 

STAI R  S 


RUOM 


PANTRY. 


KlTCHCN. 


SITTING    ROOM. 


DINING    ROOM 


is  hoped  that  every  reader  may  find  some  suggestions  of 
value,  to  be  followed  whether  the  house  be  already  built 
or  yet  to  be  erected. 

The  first  matter  to  be  considered  is  the  size  of  the 
room.  While  it  is  important  to  have  ample  space  for 
range,  sink,  dresser,  tables,  and  chairs,  and  for  free  move- 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  11 

ments,  it  also  is  important  to  avoid  having  the  room  so 
large  as  to  oblige  one  to  take  many  steps  to  and  from 
range,  sink,  table,  and  pantry.  A  good  size  is  16  X  16 
or  15  x  17  feet. 

Be  particular  to  have  the  ventilation  as  good  as  possi- 
ble ;  for  the  comfort  of  not  only  those  who  have  duties 
in  the  kitchen,  but  of  the  entire  household,  is  in  a  meas- 
ure dependent  upon  it.  If  the  ventilation  be  poor,  the 
strength  of  those  who  work  in  the  room  will  needlessly 
become  exhausted,  and  they  are  likely  to  get  irritated 
easily.  Moreover,  odors  of  cooking  will  escape  to  other 
parts  of  the  house  instead  of  passing  to  the  open  air. 
The  room  should  be  high,  and  have  large  windows  that 
can  be  raised  or  dropped  easily.  If  the  kitchen  be 
located  in  a  one-story  extension,  almost  perfect  ventila- 
tion may  be  secured  by  means  of  a  ventilator  in  the  roof 
or  by  a  skylight;  or  it  may  be  found  easy  to  have  a 
ventilator  placed  in  the  chimney.  If  expense  be  no 
obstacle,  it  will  be  well  to  have  a  separate  chimney  for 
the  kitchen,  as  this  is  one  of  the  surest  ways  of  prevent- 
ing odors  of  food  from  reaching  other  rooms.  Although 
cAe  room  may  be  admirably  arranged  and  finished,  it  will 
not  be  a  model  apartment  unless  there  be  good  ventila- 
tion and  an  abundance  of  light.  Most  kitchens  have 
some  dark  corners,  but  there  should  be  none. 

Excepting  the  ceilings,  every  part  of  the  room,  as  well 
as  of  the  pantry  and  the  adjoining  closets,  should  be  fin- 
ished in  a  way  that  permits  of  washing.  A  hard-wood 
floor  is  desirable.  Avoid  spruce.  Hard  pine,  if  care- 
fully selected,  makes  a  good  floor ;  but  the  best  wood  is 
maple  or  birch,  in  strips  not  more  than  three  inches 
wide.  If  soft  wood  be  used,  splinters  will  in  time  get 
torn  up.  Oil-cloth  often  is  used  for  covering  the  floor. 
It  may  look  bright  and  clean,  but  is  too  cold,  and  fre- 
quently causes  rheumatism.  Lignum,  which  somewhat 
resembles  oil-cloth,  but  is  thicker  and  warmer,  is  as  good 
a  covering  as  can  be  found.  It  is  clean  and  durable. 


12  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Tiles  are  sometimes  recommended  for  the  floor  of  a 
kitchen ;  they  can  be  kept  clean  and  will  wear  well,  but 
they  tire  the  feet,  and  for  that  reason  should  not  be 
used. 

It  is  well  to  have  the  woodwork  in  a  kitchen  oiled.  A 
wainscot  is  desirable.  Have  the  walls  painted  a  rather 
light  color.  If  one  can  afford  it,  the  walls  about  the 
range  and  sink  should  be  tiled.  At  the  outset  tiles  may 
appear  costly,  but  after  experience  one  finds  it  is  really 
a  saving  to  use  them.  They  can  easily  be  kept  perfectly 
clean,  and  will  last  as  long  as  the  house  itself.  English 
or  Dutch  tiles  should  be  used,  and  there  is  nothing  more 
appropriate  than  the  blue  and  white.  The  price  for  fur- 
nishing and  setting  such  tiles  is  from  seventy  cents  to  a 
dollar  per  square  foot.  Probably  the  time  will  come 
when  nobody  will  think  of  finishing  a  house  without 
them. 

Do  not  be  satisfied  with  a  small  sink.  Have  one  of 
good  size,  and  of  iron,  with  a  sloping  and  grooved  shelf 
at  one  end,  on  which  to  drain  dishes  after  washing  them. 
Let  the  sink  rest  on  iron  legs.  The  space  under  it  should 
not  be  enclosed,  as  every  dark  place  is  a  source  of  temp- 
tation  to  a  slovenly  domestic. 

One  caution  in  regard  to  the  sink :  have  the  strainer 
screwed  down  firm.  Anything  that  will  not  pass  through 
the  strainer  should  not  go  into  the  pipes.  The  hinged  or 
loose  strainer  gives  but  little  protection,  as  the  temp- 
tation to  lift  it  and  let  sediment  pass  through  is  very 
great.  With  an  immovable  strainer  and  the  use,  once 
a  fortnight,  of  the  hot  solution  of  soda  described  in  the 
chapter  on  "  Care  of  Utensils,"  there  will  be  no  trouble 
with  pipes,  unless  it  be  caused  by  wear  or  freezing. 
After  using  the  hot  soda,  flush  the  pipes  with  cold 
water.  This  plan  has  been  followed  in  the  care  of  the 
plumbing  of  a  large  house  for  many  years,  with  the 
most  satisfactory  results.  Put  hooks  under  the  sink,  for 
dish-cloths,  dish-pans,  etc.  Unless  there  be  tiles  above, 


AN   IDEAL  KITCHEN. 


13 


ROLLER  FOR  TOWEL 

ABOVE   QROOVEO 

DRAINING   BOARD. 


TO  HALL 

AND 

MAIN  PART  or  HOUSE. 


below,  and  at  the  sides  of  the  sink,  all  this  space  should 
be  finished  in  hard  wood.  If  tiles  be  used,  have  a  broad 
capping  of  hard  wood  extend  across  the  upper  edge  of 
the  top  row,  in  which  to  place  brass  hooks  for  the  various 
small  utensils  in  frequent  use  at  the  sink. 


14  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Between  the  doors  leading  to  the  china  closet  and  the 
hall  have  a  dresser.  Here  can  be  kept  the  kitchen  table- 
ware and  some  utensils.  Near  the  back  part  of  each 
shelf  have  a  groove,  so  that  plates  and  platters  may  be 
placed  on  edge  without  danger  of  their  falling.  There 
also  should  be  two  drawers,  and  below  the  drawers  two 
closets  containing  shelves.  The  doors  of  the  upper  part 
of  the  dresser  should  be  made  in  part  of  glass,  and  in- 
stead of  swinging  on  hinges  they  should  slide  one  in 
front  of  the  other. 

Allow  enough  room  for  the  tables,  so  as  to  avoid 
crowding  and  confusion  when  a  meal  is  being  prepared 
or  served.  Swinging  tables  are  convenient,  as  they  oc- 
cupy no  space  when  not  in  use.  At  one  end  of  the  sink 
have  a  table,  about  2£  X  3£  feet,  containing  one  drawer 
for  knives,  forks,  and  spoons,  and  one  for  towels.  This 
table  should  be  placed  on  castors,  so  that  it  can  easily 
be  moved  to  the  centre  of  the  room.  There  should  be 
a  small  table,  about  the  height  of  the  range,  for  use  as  a 
resting-place  for  utensils  when  omelets,  waffles,  griddle- 
cakes,  etc.,  are  made.  Its  top  should  be  covered  with 
zinc.  When  not  in  use  this  table  may  be  moved  to  some 
other  part  of  the  room.  There  should  be  one  more  table 
in  the  kitchen,  between  two  windows  if  the  space  will 
permit,  —  a  settle  table,  which  serves  as  a  seat  when 
not  in  use  for  ironing  or  some  other  purpose.  Above 
the  table  have  two  shelves,  —  one  for  a  clock,  and  the 
other  for  cook-books,  the  grocer's  and  marketman's  order- 
books,  etc.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  have  the  corners  of  all 
the  tables  rounded,  so  that  nobody  shall  be  hurt  by 
striking  against  them. 

Have  broad  window-seats,  in  order  to  keep  a  few  pots 
of  flowers,  herbs,  or  other  plants  in  the  room.  Flowers 
brighten  a  kitchen  wonderfully,  and  seem  to  grow  better 
there  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  house.  One  other 
point  about  the  windows :  they  should  be  supplied  with 
wire  screens  in  summer.  Swarms  of  flies  will  get  in 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN. 


15 


f 

^ 

f 


16 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


unless  this  precaution  be  taken.     The  same  barrier  is 
needed  at  the  outside  door  as  much  as  at  the  windows. 

The  most  important  piece  of  furniture  is  the  range. 
Many  housekeepers  find  it  difficult  to  decide  which  is 
better,  a  set  or  a  portable  range.  Each  has  merits.  Less 
room  is  required  for  set  ranges;  broiling  and  roasting 
can  be  done  before  the  fire,  and  a  constant  supply  of 
hot  water  is  insured.  But  set  ranges  are  rather  slow  to 
respond  to  draughts  and  checks ;  they  consume  a  great 


deal  of  coal ;  the  hearth  becomes  hot,  and  uncomfortable 
to  stand  on ;  and  there  is  but  one  side  of  the  range  to 
approach,  which  necessitates  the  frequent  lifting  and 
moving  of  heavy  utensils. 

Now,  a  portable  range  can  be  so  placed  as  to  permit 
of  one's  walking  almost  around  it ;  it  can  be  used  as 
advantageously  as  a  set  range,  with  about  half  the  same 
quantity  of  coal ;  there  is  a  prompt  response  to  the 
opening  or  closing  of  a  draught ;  one's  feet  do  not  get 
heated  by  standing  near  it ;  there  are  no  dark  corners ; 
the  need  of  moving  utensils  is  to  a  large  extent  avoided, 
and  it  can  be  so  managed  that  there  shall  be  a  hot  oven 
at  any  time  of  the  day.  But  roasting  must  be  done  in 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  17 

the  oven,  and  broiling  over  the  coals,  and  the  supply  of 
hot  water  is  limited. 

With  a  set  range  there  must  be  a  broad  hearth  of  tiles, 
slate,  or  best  face-brick.  If  a  portable  range  be  used, 
only  a  large  piece  of  zinc  will  be  required  under  it. 

THE   PANTRY. 

And  now  the  pantry.  It  should  be  about  12  x  8  feet. 
The  window  should  have  a  wire  screen,  and  inside  fold- 
ing blinds  will  be  found  a  great  convenience,  —  indeed, 
they  are  a  necessity.  A  large,  strong  table,  containing 
two  drawers,  should  be  placed  at  this  window.  There 
should  be  hooks  at  the  ends  of  the  table,  from  which  to 
suspend  the  pastry-board,  the  board  on  which  cold  meats 
are  cut,  arid  that  on  which  bread  and  cake  are  cut.  In 
one  drawer  the  rolling-pin,  knives,  pastry  and  cake 
cutters,  and  a  few  other  utensils  may  be  kept ;  and  in  the 
other  drawer,  spices,  flavoring  extracts,  etc. 

At  one  end  of  the  room  the  wall  should  be  covered 
with  hooks  on  which  to  hang .  saucepans.  At  the  same 
end,  about  a  foot  from  the  floor,  there  should  be  a  broad 
shelf  on  which  to  keep  heavy  pots  and  kettles,  turned 
upside  down  to  keep  out  dust.  Two  feet  above  this 
shelf  there  should  be  a  narrow  one  for  the  covers  of  the 
utensils  just  mentioned.  By  following  this  plan  one 
can  keep  all  these  articles  together  and  always  in  sight, 
and  no  time  need  be  lost  in  searching  for  any  of  them. 

There  will  be  space  in  this  end  of  the  room  for  small 
shelves  for  the  glass  jars  in  which  to  keep  materials 
used  frequently,  such  as  tapioca,  barley,  rice,  baking- 
powder,  soda,  cream-of-tartar,  ginger,  split  peas,  etc. 
Here,  also,  may  be  kept  small  pasteboard  boxes  contain- 
ing herbs. 

In  the  window-frame  put  brass  hooks,  on  which  to 
hang  the  egg-beater,  spoons,  graded  measuring-cups,  a 
whisk,  etc. 


18 


MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


At  the  lower  end  of  the  pantry  have  a  strong  rack, 
a  few  inches  from  the  floor,  on  which  to  place  flour- 
barrels.  This  plan  insures  the  circulation  of  air  under 
the  barrels,  keeping  their  contents  sweet.  About  a  foot 
above  the  barrels  have  a  wall  closet,  with  shelves  about 
twenty  inches  wide.  This  should  be  supplied  with  a 
lock,  as  it  is  designed  for  keeping  cooked  food  and  such 


groceries  as  raisins,  currants,  and  citron,  in  glass  jars, 
besides  fresh  fruit.  The  door  or  doors  should  be  made 
partly  of  wire. 

Extending  the  length  of  one  side  of  the  room  have  a 
tier  of  shelves,  beginning  about  a  foot  from  the  floor  and 
running  as  high  as  the  top  of  the  wall  closet.  Tin  cans 
of  meal  und  sugar,  stone  jars  of  salt,  and  jugs  of  molas- 
ses and  vinegar  may  be  kept  on  the  lower  shelves  ;  and 
mixing-bowls,  mixing-pans,  stone-china  measuring-cups, 
etc.,  —  indeed,  all  utensils  for  which  no  other  place  has 
been  provided,  —  may  be  kept  on  the  upper  shelves. 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  19 

In  some  place  near  the  door  of  the  pantry  have  a  hook 
or  a  roller  for  a  towel,  in  order  to  avoid  taking  steps 
across  the  kitchen  whenever  the  hands  require  wiping. 

Now,  if  a  kitchen  and  pantry  be  built  or  reconstructed 
on  this  plan,  the  cooking  can  be  done  with  comfort,  and 
the  washing  of  dishes  will  not  seem  so  burdensome  as 
it  does  in  the  ordinary  kitchen.  Even  if  one  find  it 
impracticable  to  follow  all  or  many  of  the  suggestions 
made,  pains  ought  to  be  taken  —  whatever  the  plan  of  the 
kitchen  be — to  concentrate  the  work,  obtain  good  light, 
good  ventilation,  and  ample  table-room ;  and  all  meas- 
ures which  are  calculated  to  insure  cleanliness  and  to 
make  the  kitchen  an  attractive  place  should  be  adopted. 
There  must  be  a  closet  near  by  for  brooms,  brushes, 
dusters,  etc. ;  and  there  should  be  a  cold  room  near  the 
kitchen,  in  which  to  keep  most  of  the  perishable  stores. 
In  case  there  be  no  room  of  this  kind,  it  will  be  well  to 
keep  the  refrigerator  in  the  pantry. 


THE   STOREROOM. 

A  storeroom  well  arranged  and  properly  managed  is 
a  source  of  economy,  security,  and  comfort  to  a  house- 
keeper. It  should  be  kept  locked  except  when  stores 
are  being  put  in  or  taken  out.  Light  should  be  fur- 
nished by  a  small  window.  For  a  household  of  moderate 
size  a  room  7x5  feet  will  suffice.  In  the  ground-plan 
given  on  page  10  no  provision  is  made  for  such  a  room 
on  the  first  floor,  but  there  would  be  space  for  one  if  the 
china  closet  were  made  smaller  and  there  were  no  closets 
in  the  back  hall. 

Broad  shelves  should  run  all  round  the  room,  and 
there  should  be  a  movable  set  of  broad,  firm  steps  —  say 
two  or  three  steps  —  for  use  in  reaching  the  upper 
shelves.  The  floor  and  shelves  should  be  planed  smooth, 
that  there  may  be  no  grooves  nor  defective  places  where 
any  substance  which  may  be  spilled  will  lodge,  giving 


20  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

a  disagreeable  odor  to  the  room.  The  shelves  must  be 
made  strong,  so  that  no  danger  shall  arise  from  putting 
a  great  weight  of  stores  on  them.  A  tier  of  three  shelves 
will  be  enough.  Have  a  space  of  about  twenty  inches 
between  the  shelves.  Do  not  have  any  of  the  woodwork 
painted.  The  walls  may  be  plastered  or  sheathed.  If 
plastered,  they  may  be  whitened  each  spring,  if  neces- 
sary. This  will  freshen  and  sweeten  the  room.  The 
shelves  and  floor  may  be  cleaned  once  a  month,  and  the 
other  woodwork  washed  twice  a  year.  Care  must  be 
taken  not  to  use  much  water.  The  room  should  be  kept 
dry,  as  well  as  clean,  cool,  and  dark. 

Use  the  lower  shelves  for  such  supplies  as  are  fre- 
quently drawn  upon,  and  the  upper  ones  for  those  stores 
which  are  used  the  least.  On  the  upper  shelves  there 
may  also  be  kept  such  kitchen  utensils  as  may  be  re- 
quired to  replace  those  which  become  worthless,  —  such 
as  bowls  and  cups,  saucepans,  etc.,  which  a  wise  house- 
keeper will  always  keep  in  reserve. 

If  flour  be  kept  in  a  barrel  in  the  storeroom,  there 
should  be  a  strong  rack,  a  few  inches  from  the  floor  (as 
recommended  for  the  pantry),  on  which  to  place  the 
barrel ;  the  idea  being  to  get  a  free  circulation  of  air 
under  the  barrel  and  prevent  dampness.  Such  grocer- 
ies as  molasses,  granulated  sugar,  vinegar,  wine,  cider, 
washing-soda,  etc.,  may  be  kept  on  the  floor.  A  strip 
of  wood  into  which  are  screwed  half  a  dozen  or  more 
hooks,  may  be  fastened  (5n  one  side  of  the  room,  and 
on  it  can  be  hung  the  brushes,  brooms,  etc.,  required  to 
replace  those  which  become  worn  out. 

Following  is  a  list  of  supplies  which  should  be  kept 
in  the  storeroom.  In  sections  of  the  country  where  such 
articles  as  shrimp  and  lobster  can  always  be  found  fresh 
it  will  not  be  necessary  to  use  canned  goods.  Again,  in 
those  places  where  fish  and  oysters  are  never  found 
fresh,  it  is  well,  on  account  of  the  saving  in  cost, 
to  buy  them  ,by  the  quantity,  as  one  would  buy  canned 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  21 

peas,  tomatoes,  mushrooms,  etc.  In  some  parts  of  the 
country  the  people  depend  almost  wholly  upon  condensed 
milk  rather  than  upon  the  fresh  fluid.  If  canned  milk 
must  be  used,  a  considerable  saving  can  be  made  by  buy- 
ing a  large  quantity  at  one  time.  Then,  too,  if  one  be  so 
placed  that  it  would  not  be  possible  to  obtain  an  extra 
quantity  of  milk  in  an  emergency,  it  will  be  well  to  keep 
a  few  cans  of  condensed  milk  on  hand. 

Time  and  money  will  be  saved  by  purchasing  by  the 
dozen  such  canned  goods  as  peas,  tomatoes,  mushrooms, 
peaches,  apricots,  as  well  as  gelatine,  etc.  Soap  and 
Sapolio,  candles  and  starch,  all  should  be  bought  by  the 
box.  It  is  well  to  have  peas  of  two  qualities,  —  the 
small  French  peas  for  use  as  a  vegetable,  and  the  larger 
and  cheaper  kind  for  making  soups  and  purees.  Truffles, 
caviare,  sardines,  anchovies  in  various  forms,  and  a  few 
other  things,  are  luxuries  in  which  many  housekeepers 
never  indulge ;  and  in  any  case  a  small  can  or  bottle 
is  all  that  one  will  require  in  a  storeroom,  provided  one 
lives  in  or  near  a  large  city  where  such  articles  can  be 
obtained. 

In  the  list  of  supplies  which  follows  these  remarks 
are  mentioned  many  things  not  actually  essential,  but 
which  are  very  useful  in  giving  variety  to  the  fare.  It 
may  surprise  some  readers  that  dried  or  smoked  fish, 
ham,  bacon,  salt  pork,  brown  soap,  and  some  other  arti- 
cles are  not  included  in  the  list.  The  reason  is,  that 
they  have  moisture  or  a  strong  odor,  two  things  to  be 
avoided  in  a  storeroom  where  delicate  groceries  are  kept. 
A  cold  room  where  there  is  a  free  circulation  of  air  is 
a  better  place  for  them. 

Experience  has  proved  that  tin  boxes  are  the  best 
receptacles  for  all  kinds  of  food  that  would  attract  mice 
or  weevils.  Tin  boxes  are,  to  be  sure,  much  more  expen- 
sive than  wooden  buckets ;  but  as  they  are  lasting  and 
perfectly  secure,  it  is,  in  the  end,  economical  to  buy 
them.  Each  box  should  be  labelled  ;  and  if  they  be 


22  MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

made  to  order,  it  will  be  well  to  have  the  labels  painted 
on  them  at  the  time.  Such  boxes  as  cracker-manufac- 
turers use  will  answer  for  this  purpose,  and  a  house- 
keeper may  obtain  them  through  her  grocer  if  no  more 
convenient  way  presents  itself.  When  made  to  order, 
tin  boxes  are  expensive. 

first  Shelf.  —  Graham,  corn  meal,  both  white  and  yel- 
low, oatmeal,  rye  meal,  hominy,  buckwheat,  rice,  soda, 
crearn-of-tartar,  tapioca,  powdered  and  block  sugar,  dried 
peas,  beans,  barley,  picked  raisins,  currants  that  have 
been  cleaned,  eggs,  cheese,  gelatine,  tea,  coffee,  chocolate, 
starch,  bluing,  candles;  all  the  articles,  except  the  last 
three  and  the  gelatine,  to  be  kept  in  tin  boxes. 

Second  Shelf.  —  Olive  oil,  vanilla,  lemon,  orange,  and 
almond  extracts,  Santa  Cruz  rum,  eau-de-vie  de  Dantzic, 
maraschino,  brandy,  white  wine,  tarragon  vinegar,  olives, 
capers,  liquid  rennet,  table  salt,  macaroni,  spaghetti, 
vermicelli,  crackers,  lime-water,  stove-polish,  Sapolio, 
Castile  soap,  toilet  soap,  chloride  of  lime. 

Preserved  ginger,  pickles,  anchovy  paste,  chutney 
sauce,  extract  of  meat  in  small  jars,  arrowroot,  corn- 
starch,  potted  ham,  tongue,  and  chicken,  French  paste 
for  coloring  soups  and  sauces,  devilled  ham,  anchovies 
in  oil  and  in  salt,  Russian  caviare,  sardines,  orange  mar- 
malade, jellies,  canned  and  preserved  fruits,  almonds, 
citron,  candied  lemon  and  orange  peel,  tomato,  walnut, 
and  mushroom  ketchup,  essence  of  anchovy,  curry-pow- 
der, white  and  red  pepper,  essence  of  shrimp,  Worcester- 
shire or  Leicestershire  sauce,  and  these  whole  spices,  — 
nutmegs,  cloves,  cinnamon,  mace,  allspice,  pepper-corns, 
and  ginger ;  these  ground  spices,  —  mace,  cinnamon,  clove, 
allspice,  ginger ;  these  whole  herbs,  —  sage,  savory,  thyme, 
parsley,  sweet-marjoram,  summer  savory,  tarragon ;  these 
ground  herbs,  —  sage,  summer  savory,  thyme,  parsley, 
sweet-marjoram. 

Third  Shelf.  —  These  canned  vegetables,  —  button 
onions,  cauliflower,  peas,  string  beans,  shelled  beans, 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  23 

mixed  vegetables,  tomatoes,  and  corn  ;  also,  canned 
eepes,  mushrooms,  truffles,  salmon,  lobster,  shrimp, 
chicken  and  tongue,  and  dessert  biscuit,  prunes,  twine, 
chamois  skin,  whiting,  household  ammonia,  clothes-pins. 
Floor.  —  Molasses,  cider,  vinegar,  granulated  sugar, 
wine,  coarse  salt  for  freezing,  washing-soda  for  the 
plumbing. 

THE   COLD   STOREROOM. 

This  room  should  be  on  the  north  side  of  the  house, 
and  should  have  two  small  windows,  on  two  sides  of  the 
room,  if  possible.  A  broad  beam  should  extend  across 
one  end  of  the  room,  at  least  one  foot  from  the  wall. 
Strong  meat-hooks  should  be  fastened  in  this  beam,  on 
which  to  hang  harn,  bacon,  smoked  tongue,  smoked  sal- 
mon, and  fresh  meat  or  poultry  that  is  to  be  kept  a  day 
or  more.  At  the  other  end  of  the  room  there  should  be 
broad,  strong  shelves  on  which  to  put  the  tubs  or  jars  in 
which  pork,  lard,  pickles,  etc.,  are  kept.  All  the  things 
which  should  be  kept  very  cold,  such  as  fruits,  vegeta- 
bles, preserves,  etc.,  may  be  stored  in  this  room. 

If  one  hav£  a  good  light  cellar,  the  cold  storeroom 
may  be  arranged  there.  The  entrance  should  be  near 
the  kitchen  stairs.  In  most  modern  cellars  the  furnace 
gives  so  much  heat  that  a  separate  place  is  required  for 
storage  purposes.  If  one  be  about  to  build  a  house,  it 
will  be  well  to  take  this  matter  under  consideration. 
Have  a  separate  cellar  under  the  kitchen,  and  keep  it 
for  vegetables  and  a  storeroom.  In  the  larger  cellar 
have  the  furnace,  fuel-bins,  and  a  workshop,  if  one  be 
needed.  If  the  cellar  extend  the  entire  length  of  the 
house,  a  cold  room  may  be  made  by  building  a  brick 
partition  at  the  end  of  the  cellar  farthest  from  the 
furnace.  The  room,  whether  on  the  ground  floor  or 
downstairs,  should  be  so  arranged  that  it  can  be  made 
light  when  necessary.  The  windows  should  have  inside 
blinds. 


24  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

In  most  households  the  cellar  will  be  found  to  be  the 
most  desirable  place  for  a  cold  room,  because  the  temper- 
ature will  be  more  even  than  in  a  place  above  ground. 
Dry  atmosphere,  light,  and  ventilation  are  the  special 
points  to  keep  in  mind.  Even  in  an  old  house,  where 
the  light  is  insufficient,  large  windows  may  be  put  in, 
and  the  trouble  thus  easily  remedied.  Perfect  cleanli- 
ness and  frequent  airing  are  necessary  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  food  in  this  room. 

Of  course,  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  room  divided  into 
two  parts,  — a  thin  partition  will  suffice,  — that  the  milk 
and  butter  in  one  compartment  shall  not  absorb  the 
flavor  of  meats,  fish,  fruits,  or  vegetables  kept  in  the 
other.  If  there  be  no  refrigerator  in  the  pantry,  have 
one  in  this  room.  Ice  will  not  melt  so  quickly  here  as 
in  other  parts  of  the  house. 

A  writer  who  has  given  considerable  thought  to  the 
subject  of  ventilation  says  that  "  a  great  mistake  is  some- 
times made  in  ventilating  cellars  and  milk-houses.  The 
object  of  ventilation  is  to  keep  the  cellars  cool  and  dry, 
but  this  object  often  fails  of  being  accomplished  by  a 
common  mistake,  and  instead  the  cellar  'is  made  both 
warm  and  damp.  A  cool  place  should  never  be  venti- 
lated unless  the  air  admitted  is  cooler  than  the  air 
within,  or  is  at  least  as  cool  as  that,  or  only  a  very  little 
warmer.  The  warmer  the  air  the  more  moisture  it  holds 
in  suspension.  Necessarily,  the  cooler  the  air  the  more 
this  moisture  is  condensed  and  precipitated.  When  a 
cool  cellar  is  aired  on  a  warm  day,  the  entering  air  being 
in  motion  appears  cool ;  but  as  it  fills  the  cellar  the  cooler 
air  with  which  it  becomes  mixed  chills  it,  the  moisture 
is  condensed,  and  dew  is  deposited  on  the  cold  walls,  and 
may  often  be  seen  running  down  them  in  streams.  Then 
the  cellar  is  damp,  and  soon  becomes  mouldy.  To  avoid 
this,  the  windows  should  only  be  opened  at  night,  and 
late,  —  the  last  thing  before  retiring.  There  is  no  need 
to  fear  that  the  night  air  is  unhealthful ;  it  is  as  pure 


AN   IDEAL   KITCHEN.  25 

as  the  air  of  midday,  and  is  really  drier.  The  cool  air 
enters  the  apartment  during  the  night  and  circulates 
through  it.  The  windows  should  be  closed  before  sun- 
rise in  the  morning,  and  kept  closed  and  shaded  through 
the  day.  If  the  air  of  the  cellar  be  damp,  it  may  be  thor- 
oughly dried  by  placing  in  it  a  peck  of  fresh  lime  in  an 
open  box.  A  peck  of  lime  will  absorb  about  seven 
pounds,  or  more  than  three  quarts,  of  water ;  and  in  this 
way  a  cellar  or  milkroom  may  soon  be  dried,  even  in  the 
hottest  weather." 

THE   CHINA   CLOSET. 

Between  the  kitchen  and  dining-room  there  should 
be  a  closet  where  the  dining-room  dishes  (except  rare 
glass  and  china)  can  be  kept,  and  where  the  glassware, 
silver,  and  delicate  china  —  if  not  all  the  china  —  can  be 
washed.  A  window  is  needed  in  this  room.  Have  the 
floor  made  of  hard  wood,  unless  it  is  to  be  covered.  If 
covered,  use  lignum.  A  woollen  carpet  never  should  be 
laid  in  a  china  closet.  The  walls  may  be  sheathed,  or 
plastered  and  painted.  Everything  considered,  sheathing 
with  well-finished  hard  wood  is  the  best  plan. 

On  one  side  of  the  room  have  closets  about  three  feet 
high,  beginning  at  the  floor.  Above  the  closets  have 
broad  shelves.  These  should  have  deep  grooves,  so  that 
meat  dishes  may  be  placed  on  edge  and  inclined  against 
the  wall.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  room  have  a  sim- 
ilar tier  of  shelves,  with  drawers,  instead  of  closets, 
under  the  lowest.  If  the  room  be  planned  like  that  in 
the  design  given,  there  will  be  space  between  the  two 
tiers  of  shelves  already  mentioned  for  still  another  tier, 
although  it  will  be  better  to  save  this  space  for  the  steps 
needed  for  reaching  the  high  shelves.  These  steps 
should  be  broad,  as  a  precaution  against  accidents  to 
anybody  and  damage  to  dishes. 

The  shelves  should  be  made  of  smooth  hard  wood, 
which  is  easily  kept  clean.  It  adds  considerably  to  the 


26 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


AN  IDEAL  KITCHEN.  27 

cost  of  the  room,  but  also  considerably  to  the  conven- 
ience, to  have  sliding  glass  doors  in  front  of  the  shelves. 
They  will  exclude  a  great  deal  of  the  dust  which  other- 
wise would  collect. 

At  one  end  of  the  room,  near  the  window,  have  a  s,ink 
for  washing  dishes,  —  not  such  a  sink  as  that  in  the 
kitchen,  but  a  rather  small  basin,  say  of  copper,  about 
eighteen  inches  long,  twelve  wide,  and  eight  or  nine 
deep.  Copper  is  especially  recommended  because  it 
wears  better  than  zinc.  A  soapstone  sink  or  a  porcelain- 
lined  pan  would  be  desirable  but  for  the  greater  liability 
of  breaking  dishes.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  have  a  small 
cedar  tub  —  they  are  made  with  brass  hoops,  and  look 
very  neat  —  for  the  washing  of  the  most  delicate  china 
and  glassware,  which  is  likely  to  get  marred  or  broken 
if  crowded  into  a  pan  with  other  heavier  articles. 

On  each  side  of  the  sink  have  a  swinging  table,  on 
which  to  place  dishes.  The  tables  will  at  times  be 
convenient  when  making  salads  and  other  similar 
dishes.  Above  the  table  nearest  the  kitchen  have  a 
slide  in  the  wall,  that  dishes  may  be  passed  to  and  from 
the  kitchen.  This  small  space  will  not  admit  odors  or 
the  hot  air  as  the  door  would  if  kept  open.  In  case 
there  be  two  or  more  servants  in  the  household,  the 
door  from  the  closet  to  the  kitchen  need  not  be  opened 
at  all  while  a  meal  is  served,  all  dishes  being  passed 
through  the  slide. 

The  small  closets  in  the  room  are  for  the  sugar,  tea, 
condiments,  and  the  cake,  bread,  and  cracker  boxes. 
There  should  be  one  small  closet  for  the  articles  used 
in  cleaning  the  table-ware,  such  as  soap,  whiting,  alco- 
hol, ammonia,  brushes,  chamois  skin,  etc.  The  drawers 
under  the  shelves  are  intended  for  the  table  linen,  clean 
dish-towels,  etc. 

A  towel-rack  that  can  be  fastened  to  the  window- 
casing  is  a  necessity.  In  case  the  walls  be  plastered  or 


28 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


tiled,  a  broad  moulding  of  wood  should  be  placed  just 
above  the  sink.  Brass  hooks  screwed  into  this  moulding 
will  prove  to  be  a  great  convenience. 

This  room  is  often  called  the  butler's  pantry. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


29 


KITCHEN    FURNISHING. 


To  a  woman  who  is  interested  in  cooking  and  in  her 
kitchen  there  are  few  places  so  tempting  as  a  kitchen- 
furnishing  store.  There  are  so  many  articles  that  are 
of  no  great  value  in  the  kitchen  that  one  must  exercise 
great  care  in  selecting  what  is  best  adapted  to  her  wants. 
Closets  crowded  with  all  sorts  of  utensils  are  not  a  help 
to  order,  neatness,  and  expedition  in  cooking ;  but  it  is 
essential  to  the  highest  perfection  in  cooking  that  there 
shall  be  enough  of  the  right  kind  of  utensils. 

The  object  of  this  chapter  is  to  show  what  a  good 
housekeeper  really  needs,  of  what  material  the  uten- 
sils should  be  made,  and  some  of  the  numerous  inven- 
tions which,  if  not  absolutely  needful,  are  at  least  very 
desirable  in  a  modern  kitchen. 

Here  is  a  list  of  articles  with  which  every  housekeeper 
should  be  supplied :  — 


Apple-corer. 

Baking-pans,    four,    of   tin,    and 

shallow. 
Baking-pans  of  Russian  iron,  two 

sizes. 
Bean -pot. 
Biscuit-cutter. 

Blacking-brash,  for  polishing  stove. 
Block,  or  thick  board,  on  which  to 

break  bones,  open  lobsters,  etc. 
Boards,  two,  on  which  to  cut  bread 

and  cold  meat. 
Boning-knife. 
Bowls,  four,  yellow   earthenware, 

holding  from  six  quarts  down. 
Bowls,   four,   white,  and  smooth- 
bottomed,    holding    one    quart 

each. 


Boxes,   of  tin  or  wood,   for  rice, 

tapioca,   crackers,   barley,  soda, 

cream-of-tartar,  etc. 
Braising-pan,  say  of  granite -ware, 

round  and  deep,  with  cover. 
Bread-pans,  two,  holding  six  and 

eight  quarts  respectively. 
Brown-bread  pans,  two. 
Buckets  or  tin  boxes  for  sugar, 

graham,  Indian,  and  rye  meal. 
Butcher's  knife. 
Cake-box. 

Case  knives  and  forks,  two  each. 
Chocolate-pot. 
Chopping  knife  and  tray. 
Coffee-biggin. 
Coffee-pot. 
Colander. 


30 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Covers  for  flour-barrels. 

Cups,  six,  holding  half  a  pint  each. 

Dipper  with  long  handle. 

Dish-cloth,  of  wire. 

Dish -pan. 

Double-boiler,  hoi  ding  three  quarts. 

Double-broilers,  three,  —  one  each 
for  toast,  fish,  and  meat. 

Dredgers,  one  each  for  flour,  pow- 
dered sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  — 
the  last  two  to  be  small. 

Dust  pan  and  brush. 

Egg-beater,  Dover. 

Fish-kettle. 

Flour-sieve. 

Fork,  large. 

French  cook's  knife. 

Frying-basket. 

Frying  -  kettle,  Scotch,  No.  4 
(which  is  deep). 

Frying-pans,  French,  polished, 
Nos.  3  and  6. 

Grater,  large. 

Gravy-strainer. 

Griddle. 

Hand- basin. 

Jagging-iron. 

Larding-needle. 

Lemon-squeezer. 

Meat-rack. 

Melon-mould. 

Milk -pans,  two. 

Moulding-board,  of  hard  wood. 

Muffin-pans,  two,  of  stamped  iron. 

Pail,  for  cleaning  purposes. 

Pans,  four,  deep,  for  loaves  of 
bread  or  cake. 

Pots,  two,  of  cast-iron  (they  come 
with  the  stove). 


Preserving-kettle,  porcelain-lined. 

Pudding-dish,  of  earthenware. 

Pudding-mould,  round. 

Quart  measures,  two. 

Rolling-pin. 

Roll-pan,  French,  of  Russian  iron, 
and  deep. 

Scoops,  one  each  for  flour  and 
sugar. 

Scrubbing-brush. 

Skewers,  of  steel,  one  set. 

Spice-box. 

Spoons,  four,  large,  for  mixing 
purposes. 

Squash-strainer. 

Steamer  that  will  fit  on  to  one  of 
the  cast-iron  pots. 

Stew-pans,  four,  of  stamped  tin  or 
granite-ware,  holding  from  one 
pint  to  four  quarts. 

Stew-pans,  three,  porcelain-lined, 
holding  from  one  to  six  quarts. 

Stone  pots,  —  one  holding  ten 
quarts,  for  bread ;  one  holding 
six  quarts,  for  butter  ;  and  one 
holding  three  quarts,  for  pork. 

Table-spoons,  two. 

Tea-canister. 

Teapot. 

Teaspoons,  six. 

Trussing-needle. 

Vegetable-cutters,  two. 

Vegetable-knives,  two. 

Vegetable-masher. 

Waffle-iron. 

Whip-churn. 

Wire  beater  or  whisk. 

Wooden  bowl,  for  chopping  pur- 
poses. 


Utensils  made  of  iron  increase  in  value  with  use,  as 
the  surface  becomes  smooth.  In  buying  them,  be  care- 
ful to  see  that  they  are  of  the  best  quality  and  are  well 
finished.  There  are  few  things  that  come  into  the 
kitchen  which  will  cause  more  annoyance  than  iron  uten- 
sils of  poor  quality.  Before  being  used  they  should  be 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING.  31 


washed  and  be  wiped  perfectly  dry.  Then  the  inside 
should  be  rubbed  over  with  some  kind  of  fat  or  oil  that 
is  perfectly  free  of  salt.  Let  the  utensils  stand  for 
several  hours  before  washing  again.  Now  put  them  on 
the  fire  where  they  will  be  heated  gradually,  and  then 
wash  them  with  soap  and  water,  rinse  thoroughly  in  hot 
water,  and  wipe  perfectly  dry.  They  should  be  rubbed 
hard  with  a  dry  towel.  This  will  make  the  surface 
smooth.  If  this  work  be  done  carefully,  and  the  iron 
be  good  and  the  utensil  well  made,  there  will  be  no 
further  trouble. 

Iron  utensils  that  are  wiped  with  a  wet  cloth  and  then 
put  on  the  stove  to  dry  are  liable  to  have  a  rough  surface 
and  to  rust. 

Among  the  iron  goods  used  in  the  kitchen  are  frying- 
pans,  waffle-irons,  roll-pans,  griddles  for  batter  cakes, 
large  iron  pots,  etc.  Sometimes  some  of  these  things 
are  so  highly  polished  that  they  only  require  to  be  washed 
in  soap  and  water  and  then  rubbed  dry.  This  is  the 
case  with  what  are  called  French  fry-pans,  English 
hammered  pans,  and  steel-finished  griddles.  A  good 
deal  of  the  heavy  iron-ware,  like  stew-pans,  soup-kettles, 
fish-kettles,  etc.,  comes  with  either  porcelain  or  tin 
lining,  in  which  case  washing  in  soap  and  water  is  all 
that  is  required.  For  long,  slow  cooking  these  porcelain- 
lined  or  tin-lined  stew-pans  are  quite  desirable,  as  the 
article  cooking  can  be  kept  at  a  more  even  temperature 
than  in  the  tin  or  granite-ware  stew-pan.  Iron  conies 
next  to  copper  in  retaining  heat,  yet  is  far  below  copper 
in  this  respect.  But  there  are  two  objections  to  the  use 
of  many  copper  utensils,  —  their  weight,  and  the  danger 
of  poisoning.  Pains  must  be  taken  to  care  properly 
for  such  as  are  used.  In  large  establishments  where  the 
special  duty  of  one  or  more  persons  is  to  take  charge  of 
the  stew-pans  and  other  utensils,  there  is  no  reason  why 
copper  may  not  be  used,  provided  the  articles  are  in- 
spected frequently.  In  private  families  where  only  a 


32  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

few  servants  are  employed,  the  cook  does  not  have  the 
time  to  keep  copper  utensils  in  proper  condition. 

For  all  cooking  where  the  process  is  not  long  and  slow, 
nothing  can  be  cleaner,  lighter,  or  more  easily  kept  in 
good  condition  than  granite-ware.  Its  enamel,  like  that 
of  porcelain-lined  ware,  will  crack  and  chip  off  with 
rough  treatment ;  but  if  it  has  proper  care  it  will  be  found 
most  serviceable. 

When  buying  this  ware  examine  it  carefully  ;  and  if 
it  does  not  seem  firm  in  every  part  or  if  it  has  a  flaw  in 
the  enamel,  do  not  take  it.  If  the  utensil  can  be  bent 
in  any  way,  the  enamel  will  crack  and  chip  off,  making 
the  dish  worthless.  This  is  the  reason  why  the  spoons 
of  this  ware  are  not  a  success.  Some  persons  still  are 
prejudiced  against  this  ware.  The  constant  use  of  it 
for  eight  years  has  proved  it  perfectly  reliable  and  the 
most  satisfactory  of  all  materials  for  kitchen  utensils,  — 
its  lightness  and  cleanliness  especially  commending  it. 

A  large  proportion  of  utensils  are  made  of  tin.  One 
should  be  careful  in  the  purchase  of  tin  articles  to  get 
the  best.  So  much  cheap  metal  is  sold  for  a  song  that 
dealers  do  not  find  a  ready  sale  for  the  best  quality,  and 
therefore  even  first-class  houses  do  not  keep  it  made  up. 
Articles  made  of  good  block-tin  will  outwear  half  a 
dozen  sets  of  the  cheap,  light  tin  that  is  used  so  freely. 
The  best  tin  has  a  smooth  and  rather  dull-looking  sur- 
face, and  is  so  strong  and  firm  that  it  will  keep  its  shape 
until  worn  out.  It  will  stand  great  heat  without  the 
surface  becoming  rough.  The  poorer  quality  of  tin  has 
a  more  brilliant  surface,  which  will  be  found  upon  ex- 
amination to  be  a  little  rough.  When  exposed  to  great 
heat  the  tin  coating  melts,  giving  a  rough,  uneven  sur- 
face which  it  is  difficult  to  clean  and  to  which  a  cook- 
ing substance  clings,  thus  getting  burned.  Most  utensils 
should  be  made  of  XX  tin;  at  least  XXX  tin,  if  not 
XXXX,  should  be  used  for  bread  and  cake  pans  when 
they  are  not  made  of  sheet-iron.  Tin  boxes  in  which 


KITCHEN   FURNISHING.  33 

groceries  are  kept  need  not  be  of  this  quality  of  tin. 
Such  boxes  as  are  made  for  cracker-manufacturers  would 
cost  no  more  than  the  wooden  buckets.  One  can  nearly 
always  get  them  through  one's  grocer.  It  is  a  simple 
matter  to  paint  the  labels  on  them.  -  These  can  be  used 
in  the  storeroom  for  the  articles  enumerated  in  the  list 
on  page  22.  There  should  be  kept  in  the  pantry  two 
tin  boxes  for  bread,  fresh  and  stale ;  two  for  sugar, 
powdered  and  granulated;  and  one  for  each  kind  of 
meal. 

For  the  daily  or  weekly  supplies  for  the  pantry  there 
is  nothing  better  than  glass  preserving- jars.  In  these  can 
be  kept  rice,  beans,  split  peas,  tapioca,  sago,  barley,  ver- 
micelli, roasted  coffee,  etc.  A  glance  at  the  row  of  jars, 
and  one  sees  at  once  the  article  required,  —  a  great  sav- 


Soup-digester.  Ham -boiler. 

ing  of  time  and  thought.  Then,  too,  the  housekeeper 
can  ascertain  each  morning,  without  opening  the  jars, 
which  need  replenishing.  This  plan  of  keeping  groceries 
in  sight  is  of  the  greatest  advantage. 

A  soup-digester,  which  is  used  in  making  soup,  is  not 
a  necessity,  but  is  of  great  value  in  the  kitchen.  If 
not  made  so  tight  that  all  the  steam  is  kept  in,  one 
might  as  well  use  an  ordinary  kettle.  There  is  a  little 
opening  in  the  cover,  which  lets  the  steam  escape  in  case 
there  should  be  hard  boiling.  Soup-digesters  are  made 
in  this  country,  and  cost  about  one-third  less  than  the 
English  ;  but  so  far  they  have  not  been  made  steam-tight, 

3 


34  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  are  of  no  greater  value  than  an  ordinary  kettle  with 
a  good  cover.  Those  imported  from  England  are  well 
made. 

A  fish-kettle  is  almost  a  necessity,  and  is  not  very  ex- 
pensive. It  is  long,  -but  light,  and  has  a  perforated  tray 
with  handles,  which  fits  loosely  into  the  kettle.  The  fish 
rests  on  this  tray  while  cooking,  and  when  done  is  lifted 

from  the  water  and  drained  on 
the  tray.  An  oval  sheet-iron 
ham-boiler  is  cheap  and  light, 
and  can  be  used  for  boiling  a 
ham,  turkey,  a  small  fish,  or  a 
cut  of  a  large  fish,  like  halibut 
or  salmon.  It  has  a  perforated 
tray,  like  the  fish-boiler. 

The  waffle-iron  is  one  of  the 
things   that    should   be  of  the 
best   quality,   as   the   work   of 
cooking  waffles  is  hot  and  hard 
at  any  time  ;  and  when 
the    iron   is 
too  shallow, 
or   is    in     a 
frame     that 
lifts    it    too 
high      from 
Waffle-iron.  the    fire,     or 

when  it  does 

not  fit  perfectly  over  the  opening  in  the  stove,  it  causes 
a  great  deal  of  annoyance.  Griswold's  American  waffle- 
irons  are  the  most  satisfactory.  They  are  comparatively 
new. 

Nearly  every  family  has  griddle-cakes  at  least  one  or 
two  mornings  in  the  week  in  cold  weather,  and  the 
question  of  what  kind  of  griddle  to  use  is  often  de- 
bated. One  made  of  soapstone,  when  properly  handled, 
is  to  most  people  very  satisfactory.  The  advantage  is, 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING.  35 

that  it  does  not  require  greasing,  and  therefore  there  is 
no  smoke  nor  odor  from  the  cooking  of  the  cakes,  —  a 
great  consideration  when  the  dining-room  is  located  where 
the  odors  and  smoke  from  the  kitchen  are  likely  to  reach 
it.  One  objection  to  the  soapstone  griddle  is  that  the 
cakes  and  muffins  baked  on  it  are  not  quite  so  tender  as 
those  baked  on  the  iron  griddle.  Of  iron  griddles  there 
are  two  kinds.  First,  there  is  the  common  one  made  of 
cast-iron,  with  very  little  polish.  A  good-sized  griddle 
of  this  class  can  be  bought  for  less  than  a  dollar.  Then 
there  is  a  thick,  highly  polished  kind,  the  surface  looking 
like  steel,  which  will  cost  three  or  four  times  as  much. 
If  one  can  afford  it,  it  will  pay  to  buy  the  better  griddle. 
It  is  so  thick  and  smooth  that  the  heat  is  more  uniform 
than  on  the  thinner  and  cheaper  iron. 

Cast-iron  roll  and  gem  pans  are  very  heavy,  and  it 
takes  some  use  to  get  them  smooth;  but  they  can  be 
heated  thoroughly  before  a  mixture  is  put  into  them,  — 
which  at  times  is  a  great  consideration,  —  and  no  diffi- 
culty arises  when  a  thin  mixture  is  used.  The  Kussian- 
iron  pans  are  not  made  tight,  and  cannot  be  used  when 
the  mixture  is  thin  enough  to  run  freely ;  therefore,  if 
a  housekeeper  can  have  but  one  kind  of  pan,  it  will  be 
wise  to  have  the  cast-iron  kind. 

A  common  short-handled  cast-iron 
frying-pan'  that  can  be  put  in  the 
oven,  is  a  necessity.  After  a  little  Frying-pan, 

service   it   becomes   smooth,   and   is 
useful  for  hash,  spider  corn-cake,  baked  omelets,  etc. 

There  are  three  other  varieties  of  frying-pans,  which 
come  in  sets,  and  a  housekeeper  should  have  some  of 
the  pans  in  at  least  two  sets.  The  most  common  is 
that  called  the  French  polished  fry-pan,  though  it  really 
is  not  a  French  pan.  It  is  smooth,  light,  well  made, 
and  cheap.  These  pans  may  be  used  for  various  pur- 
poses. They  are  so  smooth  that  the  materials  do  not 
stick  to  them,  and  therefore  there  is  little  danger  of 


36  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


burning.  They  are  convenient  to  make  sauces  in,  or 
for  use  in  frying  vegetables  for  soups  or  garnishes,  or, 
indeed,  for  any  kind  of  frying  when  the  articles  are 
not  to  be  immersed  in  fat.  They  answer  also  for  omelet- 
pans.  In  brief,  these  pans  are  the  most  useful  of  all 
utensils.  They  are  made  in  many  sizes.  The  prices 
range  from  twenty  cents  upward.  It  will  be  found  a 
good  investment  to  get  a  set  of  these  pans,  beginning  at 
zero,  and  going  as  high  as  No.  4  or  5.  The  regular 
French  pans  have  much  deeper  sides,  and  are  of  finer 
finish.  The  objection  to  them  is  that  the  handles  are 
rather  short,  which  is  especially  inconvenient  in  making 
omelets. 

For  an  omelet-pan  there  is  nothing  in  the  market  that 
compares  with  the  pans  of  English  hammered  ware. 
They  are  very  similar  in  shape  to  the  French  polished 
pans,  but  are  much  heavier,  and  the  handles  are  longer. 
The  marks  of  the  hammer  give  the  pans  a  rather  rough 
appearance,  but  this  roughness  is  not  the  slightest  obsta- 
cle to  perfect  work.  The  only  objection  to  the  pans  is 
the  unfinished  edges,  which  are  sharp,  and  sometimes 
cut  one's  hands  when  washing  them.  The  sizes  and 
prices  are  about  the  same  as  those  of  the  French  pol- 
ished pans. 

Frying-pans  that  can  be  used  for  all  purposes  come  in 
granite-ware ;  but  as  they  are  not  so  durable,  and  the  heat 
is  not  so  even  as  with  iron,  they  are  not  desirable.  They 
cost  about  the  same  as  iron. 

A  good  substitute  for  wooden  pails  is  what  is  called 
wood-pulp  ware.  Pails,  dish-pans,  wash-bowls,  etc.,  are 
made  from  this  substance.  They  are  light ;  there  are  no 
hoops  to  rust  or  loosen,  and  the  pails  or  pans  can  be 
kept  clean  and  dry  without  danger  of  damage. 

There  should  be  at  least  two  chopping-trays  in  the 
kitchen.  The  long,  deep  tray,  which  is  made  of  one 
piece  of  wood,  will  last  almost  a  lifetime. 

The  round  wooden  bowls,  though  not  eo  durable,  are 


KITCHEN   FURNISHING. 


37 


yet  very  useful,  and  there  should  be  one,  at  least,  in  the 
pantry.  The  second  or  third  size  is  best  in  a  small 
family. 


Chopping-tray. 


Butter-bowls. 


A  chopping-knife  with  only  one  blade  is  much  more 
desirable  than  one  with  two.    The  blade  should  be  almost 


. 


Scales  and  Weights. 


straight  across.     When  it  is  rounded  a  good  deal,  much 
time  and  strength  are  wasted  in  chopping. 

,s  nl 


; 

'37  "fl; 

-^-^^^^^_^^_^^_, 

No  kitchen  outfit  is  complete  without  scales.  Two 
kinds  come  for  use  in  the  household.  The  old-fashioned 
is  the  better,  as  there  is  nothing  to  get  out  of  order. 


Dial  Scales. 


38 


MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


These  scales  are  more  cumbersome  than  the  dial  scales, 
but  the  latter  are  likely  to  require  repairing. 

A  lignum-vitse  mortar  and  pestle  will  last  for  genera- 
tions, and  there  should  be  one  in  every  kitchen. 


Mortar  and  Pestle. 


Coffee-mill. 


A  French  coffee-mill,  which  is  simple  and  durable,  is 
a  necessity  where  filtered  coffee  is  made.  This  will 
grind  coarse  or  exceedingly  fine,  as  desired.  It  is  easily 
adjusted,  and  so  simple  that  a  child  can  use  it. 

A  rack  to  put  in  the  dripping-pan  for  a  piece  of  meat 
to  rest  on  when  cooked  in  the  oven  is  needful. 

Sherwood's  meat-pan  grates,  which 
come  in  four  sizes,  are  light,  strong, 
and  easily  kept  clean.  They  cost 

Meat-pan  Grate.        from  twenty-five  to  forty  cents. 

In  a  large  family  a  meat- 
chopper is  a  great  conven- 
ience. These  cutters  come 
in  three  sizes  for  family  use. 

A  meat-press  is  not  a 
necessity,  but  is  very  use- 
ful; the  meat  that  is 
pressed  in  it  coming  out 
as  a  solid  piece  from  which 
slices  of  good  shape  may  be 
cut.  These  presses  come 
in  several  sizes.  Meat-chopper. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


39 


Nothing  in  the  way  of  an  egg-boiler  has  ever  taken 
the  place  of  the  old-fashioned  egg-coddler,  with  which 
the  cooking  can  be  done  in  a  scientific  way.  Boiling 
water  is  poured  into  the  coddler,  and  it  stands  until  the 


Meat  and  Jelly  Press. 


Egg-coddler. 


tin  is  thoroughly  heated.  The  water  is  poured  out  and 
the  eggs  are  arranged  in  the  coddler,  which  is  then  filled 
with  boiling  water  and  kept  in  a  warm  place  for  .ten 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  it  is  sent  to  the  table, 
water  and  all. 


Egg-poacher. 

Silver  &  Co.'s  (41  Broadway,  New  York)  new  egg- 
poacher  will  be  found  of  great  value  in  the  kitchen. 
Place  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  to  a  pint  of  water.  Let  the  water  boil  for  two  min- 
utes ;  then  draw  the  pan  back  where  the  water  will  hardly 
bubble,  and  break  an  egg  into  each  ring.  Let  the  eggs 
stand  for  about  three  minutes  and  they  will  be  done.  Al- 
ways be  sure  to  have  the  poacher  hot  before  the  eggs  are 
put  in  ;  and  it  must  be  in  the  water  when  the  eggs  are 
broken  into  it.  One  can  use  muffin-rings  and  keep  the 
shape  of  the  egg  round  ;  but  this  new  poacher  is  so 


40 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION 


convenient  that  one  will  hardly  care  to  do  without  it, 
if  poached  or  dropped  eggs  are  a  popular  dish  in  the 
family. 


Egg-poacher. 

A  chocolate-pot  with  a  muller  —  that  is,  a  sort  of 
dasher  made  of  wood  and  tin,  the  handle  of  which  comes 
up  through  the  cover  of  the  pot  — 
enables  one  to  make  a  fine  and 
frothy  drink.  When  the  chocolate 
is  made  it  is  poured  into  this  pot, 
and  the  dasher  is  worked  rapidly  up 
and  down.  This  makes  the  choco- 
late froth  and  thicken.  The  choc- 
olate is  served  in  the  pot,  which  is 
Chocolate-pot  to  use  ,,  ,  £  ,  -,  -,  , .  .-,  ,  ., 

with  a  Muller.         usually  made  of  block  tin,  though  it 

may  be  of  plated  ware  or  solid  silver. 

Salt,  pepper,  flour,  and  sugar  dredgers  are  as  necessary 

as  spoons.     There  are  two  kinds,  with  a  great  difference 


Flour-dredger.       Salt-box. 
English  ware. 


Dredge-box.        Pepper-box. 
Japanned  ware. 


in  price.  The  English  dredge-boxes  are  made  of  the 
best  of  tin,  with  concave  covers,  and  are  well  finished. 
These  are  the  only  suitable  kinds  for  flour  and  salt. 

The  common  flat  dredgers,  made  of  common  tin,  usually 
are  badly  finished.      They  are  more  often  Japanned  than 


KITCHEN    FUKNISH1XG. 


41 


left  plain.  Such  dredgers  serve  very  well  for  pepper, 
but  not  for  salt  and  flour.  Always  have  a  rather  small 
salt-dredger,  and  have  the  pepper-dredgers  of  the  small- 
est size  in  the  Japanned  ware.  This  will  reduce  the 
chances  of  using  the  wrong 
seasoning  when  one  is  work- 
ing hastily.  The  distinc- 
tion should  be  so  great  that 
there  need  be  no  doubt 
which  dredger  contains 
flour,  which  salt,  and  which 
pepper.  If  a  dredger  be 
wanted  for  powdered  su-  Tapering  Strainer. 

gar,  have  it  of  a  different  size  from  that  containing  flour, 
and  do  not  keep  it  on  the  same  shelf. 

A   tapering   strainer   presents   such    a   large   surface 
through  which  material  can  be   pressed   that  it  saves 


Grocer's  Tunnel. 


Tunnel. 


Flour- scoop. 


much  time,  and  is  therefore  to  be  preferred  to  the  ordi- 
nary strainer. 

^hree  tunnels  are  needed,  —  a  grocer's  tunnel,  for  fill- 
ing preserving-jars,  and 
one  large  and  one  small 
tunnel  for  filling  bottles, 
jugs,  arid  cruets. 

There  should  be  a 
scoop  for  the  flour-barrel 
and  another  for  sugar. 

Spice-boxes   are   made 
in    many   forms.      Little 
boxes  labelled  with  the  various  kinds  of  spice  are  fitted 


Spice-box. 


42 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


into  one  large  box.  If  they  were  well  made  they  would 
be  very  desirable,  but  they  are  so  poorly  made  that  it  is 
difficult  to  take  the  covers  off  or  to  put  them  on.  The 
cut  given  on  page  41  illustrates  a  very  simple  and  good 
box  with  three  compartments  on  each  side ;  the  only 
objection  being  that  the  spice  is  not  protected  so  well 
as  in  the  case  of  the  little  boxes  within  one  large  box. 
However,  one  does  not  keep  much  spice  at  a  time  in 
these  pantry  boxes,  and  the  saving  of  time  and  patience 
by  using  this  box  is  a  consideration. 

A  flat-handled  skim- 
mer is  one  of  the  things 
that  should  be  in  every 
kitchen,  and  also  a  cake- 
turner. 

Many  housekeepers 
prefer  the  kind  of  po- 
tato-masher shown  be- 
low to  the  wooden  one. 
In  unskilled  hands  it 
gives  a  lighter  dish  of  potato  than  the  wooden  masher, 


Flat-handled  Skinmx 


Potato-masher. 

but  the  wooden  one  will  be  needed  for  many  other  things 
for  which  the  wire  masher  would  not  answer. 

There    are    many   kinds   of 
ice-picks,  but  for  general  use 
none  are  better  than  the  iron- 
Iron-bound  Ice-pick.  bound  one. 

Skewers  should  always  be  of 

steel.     It  is  well  to  have  two  sets,  —  a  graded  set  for 
meat  and  poultry,  and  a  small  kind  for  birds. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


Nothing  made  for  opening  cans  is  equal  to  sardine- 
shears,  which  with  care  will  last  for  a  generation. 


Sardine-shears.  Fluted  Cake-pan. 

A  cake  baked  in  a  fluted  round  pan,  like  that  shown 
above,  is  nice  to  put  on  the  table  whole. 


Fancy  Cake-pans. 

A  few  of  each  of  the  small  moulds  represented  above 
give  variety  to  a  cake-basket.     Plain  cake  baked  in  these 


44 


MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Border-mould. 


fancy  shapes  is  more  attractive  than  a  rich  kind  in  one 
large  loaf. 

In  selecting  baking-pans,  get  those  made  of  XXX  tin 
or  sheet-iron,  with  perfectly  straight  sides  and  level 
bottoms. 

A  plain  round  or  oval  border- 
mould  will  be  very  serviceable,  as  it 
can  be  used  for  baking  cakes  for  des- 
sert, for  steaming  any  kind  of  force- 
meat which  is  to  be  served  with  a 
garnish  or  ragout,  or  for  shaping  any 
kind  of  mashed  vegetable,  such  as 
rice  or  potato,  when  it  is  to  be  served  with  a  blanquette 
or  ragout.  These  moulds  are  not  expensive. 

There  are  some  kinds  of  batters 
that  require  a  peculiar  kind  of  baking 
to  make  them  perfect.  Pop-overs 
and  various  kinds  of  puffs  must 
always  be  baked  in  stoneware  cups. 
When  cooked  in  these  cups  they 
increase  to  four  or  five  times  the 
original  size.  These  stone  cups  will  last  twenty  years 
or  more,  and  be  perfectly  sweet  at  the  end  of  that  time. 
Brown  or  yellow  earthenware,  or  even  stone-china  cups, 
will  absorb  fat,  and  soon  acquire  a  strong  and  disagree- 
able odor  and  flavor ;  besides,  they  break  and  crack 
easily.  Outside  of  New  England  these  stone  cups  some- 
times are  called  Boston  cups,  —  probably  because  they  are 
used  so  generally  in  New  England,  and  Boston  is  the 
chief  place  of  distribution.  They  are  imported  from  Eng- 
land. With  a  dozen  of  them,  and  knowledge  how  to  use 
them,  one  can  have  muffins  "as  light  as  air"  without  the 
use  of  a  particle  of  baking-powder,  yeast,  or,  indeed,  any 
of  the  agencies  especially  designed  to  make  breads  light ; 
eggs  and  the  air  being  sufficient.  F.  A.  Walker  &  Co., 
Cornhill,  Boston,  may  be  mentioned  as  among  the  dealers 
in  such  cups. 


English  Muffin -cup. 


KITCHEN    FURNISHING. 


46 


un 

Dariole-moulds. 


Dariole-inoulds  can  be  used  for  baking  cakes  and  corn 
muffins,  as  well  as  for  timbales  and  various  other  things. 
There  are  two  qualities. 
The  cheap  ones  cannot  bear 
a  high,  dry  temperature, 
such  as  one  needs  for  bak- 
ing corn  cakes.  Moreover, 
they  do  not  keep  their  shape ; 
and  this  would  be  a  draw- 
back when  making  timbales.  These  moulds  come  in 
several  sizes,  the  smallest  costing  about  $1.25  per  dozen. 
This  size  is  quite  desirable  when  plain  "timbales  are  made 
for  a  company  dinner  or  luncheon,  as  the  contents  of  one 
mould  are  enough  to  serve  to  one  person.  Some  of 
these  shapes  are  imported  from  France.  These  moulds 
are  made  of  the  best  quality  of  tin,  and  are  annealed 
while  being  made.  They  are  purchased  largely  by  pro- 
prietors of  first-class  hotels  and  restaurants  for  baking 
corn  cakes.  They  are  expensive  at  first,  but  wear  so 
well  that  it  is  real  economy  to  buy  them  in  preference  to 
the  poor  tin  that  loses  shape  and  becomes  rough  when 
exposed  to  heat  and  hard  usage. 

This  cut  shows  the  French  tin,  which  is 
2  x  2i  inches. 

Besides  the  tapering  strainer  already  men- 
tioned, there  should  be  a  strainer  of  this 
shape.  It  should  be  only  fine  enough  to 
keep  back  the  seeds  of  small  fruits,  and 
should  be  quite  concave.  There  should 
be  a  generous  number  of  holes.  Lewis  & 

Conger,   of 

have  strainers  of  this 
pattern  for  sale.  They 
cost  sixty  cents,  and  are 
well  worth  that  sum. 

A  finer   strainer  that 
can  be  used  for  liquids  is  necessary.      These  strainers 


Corn-cake 
Pan* 


Strainer. 

New  York, 


Handled  Strainers. 


46 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


are  made  of  such  fine  wire  that  they  cannot  be  cleaned 
in  the  ordinary  way,  and  should  be  rubbed  with  a  stiff 
brush. 

A  strainer  for  the  teapot  also  will  be  required.  It 
may  be  had  in  tin,  silver- 
plated  ware,  or  silver. 

Purees  are  fashionable  now- 
a-days.  Even  under  favorable 
conditions,  considerable  work 
is  required  to  make  them  ;  and 
unless  there  be  proper  uten- 
sils for  doing  the  work,  much 
time  will  be  lost  and  there 
will  be  a  great  waste  of  materials.  A  coarse  and  a  fine 
sieve  are  needed  where  the  best  modern  cooking  is  to  be 


Teapot  Strainer. 


Coarse  Puree  Sieve. 

done.  The  coarse  sieve  is  used  not  only  for  purees,  but 
for  force-meats.  The  frame  may  be  made  of  wood  or 
strong  tin;  the  strainer,  of  strong  wires  woven  into  a 
coarse  netting ;  this  netting  being  strengthened  by  two 
cross-pieces  of  coarse  wire.  The  substance  to  be  strained 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING.  •       47 

is  placed  in  the  sieve  and  rubbed  through  with  a  wooden 
vegetable-masher.  Properly  used,  this  sieve  will  last  a 
long  time.  Fine  French  sieves,  for  use  in  straining  semi- 
liquid  purees,  are  made  of  the  finest  woven  wire.  They 
are  used  only  for  fine  cooking,  and  therefore  should  last  a 
great  many  years. 

The  shapes  in  which  pudding  jellies,  creams,  etc.,  are 
cooked  or  chilled,  may  make  much  difference  in  the  at 
tractiveness  of  the  dish.  A  few  well-chosen  forms  are 
more  to  be  desired  than  many  that  are  neither  handsome 
nor  clearly  defined.  Moulds  that  have  the  designs 
stamped  on  them  are  comparatively  cheap.  American 
moulds  of  this  class  usually  have^  the  design  at  the  top 
deep  and  clear ;  but  the  impression  in  the  sides  is  so 
slight  that  the  cream  or  jelly,  when  turned  out,  is 
found  to  have  perfectly  smooth  sides. 

The  English  makers  stamp  the  sides  deep,  and  the 
mould  of  jelly  presents  a  beautiful  appearance  when  on 
a  dish.  The  cost  of  the  English  goods  is  from  one-third 
to  one-half  more  than  those  of  American  make.  All 
the  handsome  forms  are  imported.  They  are  made  of 
many  pieces  soldered  together,  and  consequently  are 
very  expensive,  costing  five  and  six  times  as  much  as 


Jelly-moulds. 

a  mould  of  the  same  size  on  which  the  design  is 
stamped.  But  these  expensive  forms  are  made  of  the 
best  tin,  and  will  last  a  great  many  years.  Some  of 
the  finest  shapes  come  in  copper ;  but  this  is  a  metal 
in  which  a  combination  of  milk  and  eggs,  or  an  acid, 


48 


MISS   PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


cannot  be  kept  with  safety  for  many  hours.  The  safest 
and  sweetest  ware  is  earthen  or  china,  but  the  finest 
shapes  do  not  corne  in  these  materials.  Besides,  it  takes 
much  longer  to  cool  a  jelly  or  cream  in  such  moulds  than 
in  tin. 

The  two  moulds  on  page  47  are  very  desirable,  as  they 
can  be  used  for  rice,  vegetables,  creams,  or  jellies.  The 
fluted  mould  is  quite  cheap.  The  cross-fluted  is  made 
of  more  pieces  and  is  more  expensive.  It  is,  however, 
one  of  the  prettiest  moulds  made. 

Here  are  simple  and  hand- 
some moulds  for  jelly,  Bavarian 
cream,  or.  any  kind  of  dessert 
that  is  served  with  whipped 
cream.  It  is  particularly  nice 
Jelly-mould,  for  imperial  pudding.  There  Jelly-mould. 

are  several  sizes.     A  two-quart 
mould  costs  $1.75. 

This  mould  is  made  of  so  many 
pieces  as  to  be  costly.  Beautiful 
effects  can  be  produced  with  it ; 
for  example,  a  jelly,  cream,  or 
blanc-mange  of  three  colors  could 
be  arranged  in  it. 

Below  and  on  page  49  are  some 
handsome    shapes    in    individual 
moulds.      They   are   simple   and 
cheap;   good  to  have  in  a  small 
family,  or  to  use  when  sending  delicacies  to  the  sick. 


Jelly-mould. 


Individual  Jelly-moulds. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


49 


Individual  Jelly-moulds. 

Ice-cream  moulds  come  in  many  pretty  shapes.     Do 
not  choose  elaborate  styles  for  this  purpose.     Only  pro- 
fessionals  can  pack   such 
moulds  properly. 


Charlotte-russe  P,u;. 


Pudding-mould. 


Charlotte-russe  moulds  are  needed  in  the  modern 
kitchen.  They  come  in  all  sizes  from  half  a  pint  up- 
ward. Those  of  oblong  shape,  with  slanting  sides,  are 


Vegetable-cutters. 

the  best.  One  rarely  wants  a  mould  of  a  greater  size  than 
two  quarts.  The  quart  mould,  or  even  a  smaller  size,  is 
the  most  useful. 


50 


MISS  PABLO A'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


A  fluted  pudding-mould  costs  but  little  more  than  a 
plain  one,  yet  the  appearance  of  the  pudding  cooked  in 
the  former  is  twice  as  attractive. 
A  set  of  vegetable-cutters  will  add  much  to  the  beauty 
of  many  a  dish.        It  should  be 
made  of  the  best  tin.     Boxes  of 
graded  cutters  may  be  had.    They 
are  very  useful  in  stamping  out 
vegetables,  force-meat,  and  jellies 
for  decorative  purposes,  and  also 
are  valuable  for  coring  apples  and 
other  fruit,  stoning  olives,  etc. 

Fluted  cutters  for  patties  can 
be  bought  in  sets  of  two  or  in 
nests.      Oblong  fluted  cutters  for 
large  vol-au-vents  can  be  found  at 
the  best  kitchen-furnishing  stores. 
Besides  these  fancy  cutters  there  should  be  a  plain, 
round  biscuit-cutter,  two  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter, 


Box  of  Cutters  or  Carers. 


Cutters. 


Biscuit-cutter.        Doughnut-cutter. 


These  answer  for 


and  another,  four  inches  in  diameter, 
biscuit,  patties,  and  ginger-snaps. 

Where  doughnuts  are  made,  a  double 
cutter  will  be  found  very  convenient. 
Where  one  is  fond  of  cone-shaped  cro- 
quettes, such  a  mould  as  this  will  be 
needed. 

There  should  be  a  cutlet-mould  in  every 
kitchen.  The  cost  is  only  twenty-five 
cents. 

Swedish  timbale-irons  are  made  plain 
and  fluted.  The  plain  kind  is  the  better ;  the  other 
holds  too  much  fat. 


Croquette-mould. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


51 


Cutlet-mould. 


Timbale-mould. 


A  salamander  is  a  round,  flat  piece  of  iron  attached 
to  a  long  iron  handle.     When  one   desires   to  brown 


Salamander. 


without   putting  it 
made    red-hot    and 


into  the   oven, 
held    over  the 


an  article  quickly 
the  salamander  is 
dish. 

Genuine  gratin  dishes  are  rather  deep  platters,  made  of 
copper,  with  the  inside  silver-plated.  They  come  in  many 
sizes,  and  are  used  for  cooking  all  kinds  of  fish,  meat,  and 
vegetables  that  are  browned  in  the  oven  and  served  in 
the  dish  in  which  they  were  cooked.  They  are  imported 
by  Lewis  &  Conger,  New  York.  Silver  baking-dishes  are 


Silver  Baking-dish. 


used  when  the  article  to  be  cooked  should  be  cooked  in 
a  deep  dish.  These  baking-dishes  are,  however,  more 
appropriate  for  hot  puddings  and  souffles.  The  baking 
is  done  in  a  porcelain-lined  dish  that  fits  into  a  silver 
frame.  Beautiful  fluted  pudding-dishes,  with  a  baking- 
dish  inside,  come  in  English  china.  They  are,  however, 
suitable  only  for  puddings  and  souffles,  whereas  the  silver 


52  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

dish  may  be  used  for  escaloped  fish,  meats,  or  vegetables, 
as  well  as  for  desserts. 


Silver  Baking-dish. 

A  palette-knife,  which  costs  fifty  or  sixty  cents,  should 
be  included  in  the  kitchen  supplies.  It  is  used  to  scrape 
mixing-bowls  free  of  dough  or  batter  of  any  kind. 


Palette-knife. 

Two  useful  articles  in  a  kitchen  are  a  meat  saw  and 
cleaver. 


Cleaver.  Braising-pan. 

A  deep,  round  granite- ware  dish,  similar  to  that  in  the 
cut,  when  covered  closely  with  a  tin  cover  free  of  solder, 
answers  all  purposes  for  braising. 

The  Dean  lemon-squeezer  works  easily,  is  strong  and 
very  clean.  It  is  a  wise  plan  to  buy  one  or  two  extra 
tumblers. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING. 


Whisk. 


Lemon-squeezer. 

Spoons  made  of  hard  maple  are  light  and  quite  strong. 
They  come  in  all  sizes.  Some  have  slits  cut  in  them, 
which  make  the  spoon  particularly  useful  for  beating 
cake  and  frosting. 

A  wire  whisk  is  neces- 
sary for  beating  whites  of 
eggs  and  jellies,  and  mak- 
ing snow-pudding,  etc.  The 
American  whisk  is  light,  and  has  a  wooden  handle. 
It  is  not  durable.  The  French  whisk  is  heavy,  the  han- 
dle being  made  of  wire,  and  wears  well. 

Graded  measuring-cups  are  of  great  value.     They  are 
made  of  tin.     One  cup  is  divided  into  four  parts,  so  that 
fourths,  halves,  and  three-quarters  can  be  measured  ac- 
curately.    The  other  cup  is  divided  into 
thirds.    There  are  several  patterns  of  these 
cups.     Get  those  which  are  gauged  by  the 
old-fashioned  beer-measure. 

A  pair  of  creased  wooden  hands,  for 
making  butter  balls,  should  be  included  in 
the  outfit  of  the  kitchen.  With  a  little 
practice,  butter  may  be  shaped  in  many 
pretty  forms,  so  that  the  dish  will  look 
very  nice  on  the  table.  Be  particular  to 
select  hands  with  fine  grooves,  as  they  give 

0  J    * 

much  better  results  than  those  with  coarse 


grooves. 


Creased  Hum  Is 

for  Shaping 

Butt.  -r. 


•* 


54 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Mixing-bowls  come  in  deep  yellow  and  light  buff 
earthenware ;  also  in  white  stone-china.  The  deep  yel- 
low ware  is  made  of  a  rather  soft  material  and  breaks 
easily ;  and  although  this  ware  is  much  cheaper  than  the 
lighter  yellow,  one  hardly  practises  economy  in  buying 
it.  The  white  stone-china  is  the  most  expensive  of  the 
three,  but  it  wears  so  well  that  it  pays  to  buy  it  in  pref- 
erence to  any  other  kind. 


Chafing-dish. 

Although  a  chafing-dish  is  not  a  necessary  utensil,  it 
insures  perfection  in  serving  many  little  dishes,  like 
venison  steaks,  oysters  in  many  forms,  Welsh  rarebits, 
etc.,  and  is  desirable  on  that  account.  These  dishes 
come  in  the  best  quality  of  tin  and  in  plated  ware.  The 
first  cut  gives  the  best-shaped  dish.  This  may  be  used 
for  many  things  which  must  be  served  very  hot.  The 


Chafing-dish. 


Wire  Dish-covers. 


Meat-safe. 


-vick  of  the  lamp  should  be  kept  rather  low,  so  that  the 
heat  shall  not  be  intense.  The  dish  shown  in  the  second 
cut  is  cheaper,  yet  quite  good. 

Wire  dish-covers  are  serviceable  when  food  is  put  away 
on  plates. 


KITCHEN  FURNISHING.  55 

In  some  parts  of  the  South  where  there  are  no  cellars, 
and  at  the  North  where  food  is  kept  in  an  open  cellar  or 
in  a  cold  room,  a  meat-safe  is  needed.  The  circulation 
of  air  is  perfect,  and  the  contents  are  protected  from 
mice  and  cats.  These  safes  usually  are  supplied  with 
locks  and  keys. 

Upright  cake-boxes,  with  shelves, 
are  the  only  kind  that  can  be  used 
with  satisfaction.  They  are  pretty 
expensive,  however,  costing  from 
$2.25  to  $3.75. 

When  preparing  soups  and  jel- 
lies, there  will  be  required,  be- 
sides the  tin  and  wire  strainers, 
two  other  kinds,  —  one  made  of 
flannel,  and  the  other  a  coarse 
sort  of  napkin.  The  flannel  Cake-box, 

strainer,  which  should  be  in  the 

form  of  a  bag  of  triangular  shape,  should  be  made  of  a 
square  of  rather  coarse  white  flannel,  and  have  four 
pieces  of  strong  tape  sewed  on  at  the  opening,  so  that  the 
bag  may  be  hung  from  a  frame  or  two  chairs.  Napkins 
costing  about  $1.50  per  dozen  are  about  right  for  use  in 
straining  soups  and  jellies.  Buy  at  least  half  a  dozen 
at  a  time.  Have  them  washed  twice,  with  a  hard  rub- 
bing, to  get  out  all  the  dressing.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
use  the  napkins  in  some  way  before  the  second  wash- 
ing, so  much  that  a  thorough  rubbing  will  be  necessary. 
Liquids  will  not  pass  through  while  the  dressing  remains 
in  the  fabric. 

When  a  filter  will  not  work  well,  water  may  be  strained 
through  a  flannel  bag  as  it  comes  from  the  faucet.  Have 
three  or  four  small  square  bags  made  of  coarse  white 
flannel  for  this  purpose.  Cotton  and  wool  may  be  used 
instead  of  all-wool  cloth.  Make  a  rather  broad  hem  at 
the  top,  through  which  put  a  strong  tape  about  half  a 
yard  long.  This  bag  can  be  put  on  the  faucet  and  fas- 


56 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


tened  firmly  with  the  tape.  One  will  not  like  to  drink 
unfiltered  or  unstrained  water  after  seeing  one  of  these 
bags  which  has  been  used  for  a  day. 

Besides  the  cooking  utensils,  many  other  articles  are 
needed  for  furnishing  a  kitchen  properly.  There  should 
be  a  strong  coal-hod,  but  be  careful  that  it  is  light  and 
not  too  large.  Many  persons  are  considerably  injured 
by  lifting  heavy  hods.  Then  a  poker  is  wanted,  —  one 
with  a  long  flat  end  that  will  cut  through  the  coal  when  it 
is  used.  It  should  have  a  riveted  iron  handle;  wooden 
handles  soon  become  loosened. 


Sink-rack. 


Sink -shovel. 


A  wooden  sink-rack,  on  which  to  place  the  dish-pan,  is 
a  desirable  article.  Sink-cleaners  —  strips  of  rubber 
fastened  into  frames  —  are  so  useful  that  one  would  not 
like  to  do  without  them  after  a  trial ;  and  a  sink-shovel 
also  is  a  convenient  thing  to  have. 

A  knife-board,  which  will 
hold  Bath  brick  and  cloths, 
and  can  be  hung  up,  is  so 
cheap  that  every  housekeeper 
should  have  one. 

Have  a  towel-rack  fastened 
near  the  range.  It  will  be 
especially  convenient  on  rainy 
days  when  the  dish-towels 
cannot  be  dried  in  the  open 
air. 

A   wire  rack  should  be  fas- 
tened over  the  sink  in  which 
to  keep   the   various    brushes 
Kitchen  Knife-boards.  which  are  used  to  keep  strain- 


KITCHEN   FURNISHING. 


57 


ers,  pure'e  sieves,  tables,  etc.,  clean.     As  nothing  cleans 
wood-work  and  tiles  more  thoroughly  than  a  sponge,  a 
large  coarse  sponge  also  should 
be  kept  in  this  rack. 


Towel-rack. 


Wire  Rack. 


A  German  heath  sink-brush  is  clean  and  strong,  be- 
sides being  inexpensive.  One  should  always  be  kept 
near  the  sink. 

Have  a  good  clock  in  the  kitchen,  even  if  something 
else  must  be  sacrificed  for  it.  Many  folk  think  that  any 
kind  of  a  timepiece  will  do,  and  others  have  none  at  all. 
Cooking  cannot  be  done  properly  without  a  good  clock 
as  an  aid. 

A  soap-shaker  is  a  convenient  and  economical  utensil 
to  have  in  both  the  kitchen  and  china-closet.  All  the 


Soap-shaker. 


X        .  . 

small  pieces  of  soap  can  be  saved  and  used  in  this 
shaker,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  soap  sticking  to  the 
dishes,  as  it  does  sometimes  when  a  large  piece  of  soap 
is  put  into  the  pan  with  the  table-ware  or  cooking- 
utensils. 

Ash  and  garbage  barrels  should  be  made 
of  galvanized  iron.  The  coal-sifter  should 
fit  over  the  ash-barrel,  which,  of  course,  is 
to  be  kept  where  it  is  most  convenient  for 
emptying.  The  garbage-barrel  should  not 
be  so  large  that  it  cannot  be  handled 
easily.  Ash-barrel. 


58  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


CARE    OF    UTENSILS    AND    KITCHEN 
FURNITURE. 

MUCH  of  the  flavor,  delicacy,  and  wholesomeness  of 
food  depends  upon  the  proper  care  of  the  utensils 
used.  Besides,  utensils  which  are  properly  cared  for 
will  last  much  longer  than  those  which  are  not. 

Sand  is  used  in  many  kitchens  for  scouring  tins, 
tables,  and  floors.  It  is  good  for  unpainted  tables  and 
floors,  provided  it  be  carefully  washed  off,  but  it  never 
should  touch  tin  or  granite  ware.  Every  kind  of  utensil 
—  tin,  iron,  wood,  etc.  —  should  be.  washed  and  wiped 
as  carefully  as  the  dining-room  china.  Many  house- 
keepers do  not  provide  proper  towels  for  the  kitchen. 
They  think  of  the  utensils  as  coarse  things,  and  provide 
only  coarse,  hard  crash  for  towels,  with  which  dishes 
cannot  be  wiped  smooth  and  dry.  Every  kitchen  should 
be  provided  generously  with  three  kinds  of  towels, —  some 
of  soft  crash,  for  the  hands,  which  can  be  made  to  go 
over  a  roller,  or  have  tapes  at  the  ends  that  they  may 
be  hung  on  hooks;  a  dozen,  also  of  soft  crash,  made 
about  a  yard  long,  for  the  dishes,  from  plates  and  bowls 
to  saucepans  and  iron  pots ;  and  half  a  dozen  of  coarser 
texture,  yet  not  hard  and  unyielding,  for  use  about  the 
range  when  lifting  hot  utensils.  The  towels  mentioned 
last  should  be  about  four  feet  long.  Unbleached  cotton 
and  linen  are  good  and  cheap  material  of  which  to  make 
them. 

Housekeepers  may  think  that  it  is  a  piece  of  extrava- 
gance to  buy  these  large  towels  for  lifting  utensils,  but 
they  are  really  as  necessary  as  the  dish-towels.  The 
small  padded  holders  that  many  people  use  are  both 


CARE   OF   UTENSILS  AND  FURNITURE.  59 

inconvenient  and  unclean,  because  they  are  not  washed 
as  soon  as  soiled,  as  in  the  case  of  the  stove-towel. 
These  towels  are  made  long  so  that  they  can  be  used 
in  putting  large  pans  into  the  oven  and  taking  them  out 
of  it. 

Having  enough  towels,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  soap 
and  hot  water,  there  is  no  reason  why  dishes  should  not 
be  sweet  and  clean.  Be  as  generous  with  soap  as  you 
are  with  towels.  Greasy  dishes  cannot  be  washed  with- 
out it. 

Every  dish  must  be  scraped  free  of  particles  of  food. 
As  soon  as  you  are  through  with  a  bowl  or  pan,  fill  it 
with  water,  that  the  substance  prepared  in  it  shall  not 
harden  on  the  surface  and  make  your  work  ten  times  as 
difficult  and  long  as  it  should  be. 

When  ready  to  wash  the  dishes,  half  fill  the  dish-pan 
with  water  as  hot  as  you  can  bear  your  hand  in.  Have 
a  second  pan  half  filled  with  water  that  is  even  hotter. 
Shake  soap  in  the  first  pan  until  strong  suds  are  formed ; 
then  begin  washing  the  dishes,  rubbing  well  with  the 
dish-cloth  every  part,  inside  and  out.  When  about 
eight  or  ten  dishes  have  been  washed,  rinse  them  in  the 
pan  of  clean  hot  water  and  drain  them  on  the  inclined 
grooved  board  beside  the  sink ;  or  if  you  have  not  that, 
an  old  tray  will  do.  Wipe  them  dry  with  a  clean  soft 
towel ;  and  if  the  utensils  be  tin,  granite-ware,  or  iron, 
place  them  near  the  fire  —  but  not  in  a  very  hot  place  — 
for  a  few  minutes,  to  insure  their  being  perfectly  free  of 
moisture  before  they  are  put  away.  If  all  the  utensils 
be  treated  in  this  manner,  even  the  iron  pots  would  not 
soil  a  cambric  handkerchief. 

The  tinware,  granite-ware,  and  frying-pans  will  need 
scouring  frequently.  This  should  be  done  whenever  a 
dish  looks  rough  or  dull,  or  when  soap  and  water  will 
not  remove  all  traces  of  the  food  prepared  in  the  dish. 
For  this  purpose  there  is  nothing  better  than  Sapolio, 
which  cleans  without  scratching.  Many  housekeepers 


60  MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

complain  of  the  expense  of  this  article ;  but  if  it  be 
bought  by  the  box  it  will  be  found  comparatively  cheap. 
Where  the  cost  of  Sapolio  is  an  objection,  soap  and  pow- 
dered Bristol  brick  may  be  used.  This  is  not  so  con- 
venient, and  therefore  the  dish  will  not  get  cleaned  so 
often  as  it  would  if  it  were  only  a  matter  of  rubbing  a 
cake  of  Sapolio  on  a  dish-cloth  and  then  on  the  article 
to  be  cleaned. 

When  washing  wooden-ware,  like  chopping-bowls, 
moulding-boards,  etc.,  never  dry  them  by  the  fire.  They 
warp  and  crack  when  exposed  to  dry  heat  while  they  are 
wet. 

Sometimes  the  most  careful  washing  will  not  wholly 
remove  the  flavor  or  odor  of  food  from  the  utensil  in 
which  it  was  cooked.  This  is  frequently  the  case  with 
fish,  onions,  cabbage,  etc.  After  any  of  these  articles 
have  been  cooked,  wash  the  utensil  carefully  with  soap 
and  water.  Now  nearly  fill  it  with  cold  water,  and  for 
each  quart  of  water  add  about  a  table-spoonful  of  dis- 
solved washing-soda.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  let  the  water 
get  boiling  hot.  Now  turn  this  water  into  the  sink. 
Rinse  the  utensil  with  clean  warm  water,  and  on  wiping 
it  dry  it  will  be  found  perfectly  sweet. 

In  washing  dish-towels,  brushes,  the  sink,  etc.,  dis- 
solved soda  will  be  found  most  useful,  cleaning  and 
sweetening  all  that  it  touches.  It  should  be  kept  in  a 
large  olive-bottle  or  preserving-jar,  and  should  be  labelled 
"  Washing-soda."  To  prepare  it,  put  one  pint  of  the 
dry  soda  in  a  saucepan,  kept  for  this  purpose,  and  add 
to  it  three  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Let  this  mixture 
stand  upon  the  stove,  stirring  it  frequently,  until  the 
soda  is  dissolved.  When  cold,  put  into  bottles. 

It  may  be  said,  in  passing,  that  this  preparation,  when 
hot,  is  an  excellent  agent  for  cleaning  and  sweetening 
the  plumbing  in  the  house.  Pour  a  pint  of  the  hot  liquid 
into  each  bowl,  basin,  and  sink  about  once  a  fortnight. 
As  the  liquid  unites  with  grease,  it  keeps  the  kitchen 


CARE   OF  UTENSILS  AND  FURNITURE.  61 

sink-pipes  free  of  greasy  deposits.  It  is  well  to  buy 
this  soda  by  the  quarter-barrel.  It  is  extremely  cheap 
when  bought  by  the  quantity.  The  housekeeper  should 
attend  to  the  dissolving  of  the  soda  herself,  and  be  care- 
ful that  none  of  the  solid  article  is  taken  from  the 
storeroom  by  anybody  else,  because  it  might  be  used 
improperly  in  laundry  work  or  for  other  purposes. 

Every  kitchen  should  be  supplied  with  soft  soap. 
This  can  be  made  once  a  month  with  very  little  trouble. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  unpainted  tables  and 
floors  perfectly  clean  without  it. 

Steel  knives  and  forks  should  be  cleaned  with  Bristol 
brick  after  each  meal. 

Some  kitchens  have  what  is  considered  as  a  conven- 
ience in  the  form  of  a  scullery,  where  the  dishes  are 
washed,  the  vegetables  prepared,  etc.  They  are  not 
desirable  in  any  house,  large  or  small. 

The  garbage  pail  or  barrel  should  be  washed  once  a 
week.  Monday,  when  there  is  plenty  of  hot  suds,  is 
a  good  time  for  this.  Scrub  the  pail  with  the  suds, 
using  an  old  broom  for  the  purpose.  Now  rinse  with 
clean  hot  water,  to  which  has  been  added  half  a  cupful 
of  dissolved  soda.  Drain,  and  dry  in  the  sun.  Wash 
the  cover  also. 

The  care  of  the  refrigerator  is  very  important.  Every 
shelf  should  be  taken  out  twice  a  week,  and  every  part  of 
the  refrigerator,  except  where  the  ice  is  kept,  should  be 
washed  and  carefully  wiped  dry.  The  ice  compartment 
need  be  washed  only  once  in  two  weeks.  The  greatest 
Dare  must  be  exercised  in  examining  and  washing  the 
refrigerator,  else  a  bit  of  meat  or  fish,  or  some  other 
substance,  may  lodge  in  a  corner  or  in  the  pipe,  and 
taint  the  entire  contents.  The  waste-pipe  of  the  re- 
frigerator should  not  be  connected  with  the  sewer-pipe, 
tf  one  wish  to  have  the  water  carried  off  by  the  sewer, 
have  it  drip  from  the  pipe  in  the  refrigerator  into  a 
tunnel  that  is  fitted  to  a  pipe  connected  with  the  general 


62  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

waste-pipe  of  the  house.  Then  there  will  be  a  current 
of  air  between  the  refrigerator  pipe  and  the  tunnel.  A 
plumber  will  show  you  where  to  have  a  trap  placed. 

The  stove  or  range  requires  careful  and  scientific  use, 
if  one  would  get  the  best  results  with  the  smallest 
amount  of  fuel  and  the  least  expenditure  of  time  and 
patience.  It  is  marvellous  what  good  work  a  stove  will 
do  under  all  sorts  of  bad  treatment.  Every  housekeeper 
should  make  herself  familiar  with  the  construction  of 
her  range.  The  same  general  principles  are  observed  in 
the  making  of  all  stoves,  but  each  manufacturer  has 
some  peculiarities  of  construction.  The  general  princi- 
ples are  these  :  to  have  a  free  draught,  causing  the  fuel 
to  burn  easily  and  quickly,  and  to  have  dampers  that 
will  so  control  this  draught  that  the  fuel  shall  burn 
quickly  or  slowly  as  one  may  desire.  Perfect  ranges 
have  several  dampers  and  checks,  because  the  hot  air  is 
not  carried  in  one  straight  channel,  but  must  be  distrib- 
uted throughout  the  range,  —  on  the  top,  the  bottom,  and 
sides  of  the  ovens,  and  also  on  the  top  of  the  range, 
where  the  boiling,  frying,  stewing,  etc.,  are  done.  There 
must  be  several  flues  to  carry  on  this  distribution,  and 
each  set  should  have  a  damper.  A  damper  usually  is  an 
iron  rod,  to  which  is  attached  a  flat  piece  that  acts  as  a 
door  to  the  flue.  The  turning  or  pulling  backward  or 
forward  of  the  iron  rod  opens  or  closes  the  flue.  When 
the  door  is  opened  the  hot  air  is  drawn  into  the  flue  and 
carried  through  a  certain  space  in  the  range :  conse- 
quently this  part  is  hotter  than  any  other  except  where 
the  fire  is  burning. 

Now,  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  hot  air  carries 
with  it  fine  ashes,  a  part  of  which  lodge  in  these  flues 
and  ultimately  so  clog  them  that  only  a  small  quantity 
of  air  can  pass  through  them  ;  hence  the  necessity  for 
frequent  cleaning.  With  every  modern  range  there 
comes  a  card  of  instructions,  which  should  be  preserved. 
It  tells  how  to  regulate  the  fire  by  means  of  the  draughts 


CARE   OF  UTENSILS  AND  FURNITURE.  63 


and  dampers,  and  how  to  clean  the  flues.  On  getting  a 
new  range  a  housekeeper  should  remove  the  covers  and, 
as  she  reads  the  printed  instructions,  work  the  dampers 
until  she  becomes  perfectly  familiar  with  their  positions 
when  open  and  when  closed,  and  the  probable  effect  on 
the  fire  in  each  case. 

There  is  one  draught  that  is  to  be  kept  open  only 
while  the  lire  is  being  started.  As  soon  as  the  smoke 
passes  off  this  damper  should  be  closed.  Eemember  that 
it  is  not  to  be  kept  open  until  the  fire  becomes  clear  and 
red,  but  only  until  the  smoke  passes  off,  —  say  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  after  the  fire  is  lighted.  This  damper 
does  a  great  deal  of  mischief,  because  its  office  is  so 
poorly  understood.  It  opens  and  closes  the  flue  that  is 
connected  with  the  chimney,  so  that,  when  open,  the 
draught  is  great,  the  fire  burns  rapidly,  the  top  of  the 
range  is  hot,  often  red,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the 
heat  passes  into  the  chimney.  The  oven  is  never  hot 
while  this  damper  is  open,  and  the  coal  burns  out  in 
less  than  half  the  usual  time.  It  will  be  seen  that  this 
is  the  most  important  damper,  and  that  it  is  necessary 
to  close  it  very  soon  after  the  fire  is  lighted. 

After  coal  has  been  burning  bright  and  clear  for  an 
hour  or  two  it  begins  to  have  a  white  look,  and  the  heat 
given  out  is  not  half  so  great  as  at  first.  Under  ordi- 
nary circumstances,  a  coal  fire  should  last  three  or  four 
hours  without  being  replenished,  and  this  with  cooking 
going  on  all  the  while.  This  depends,  however,  upon 
the  proper  use  of  the  dampers  and  checks. 

If  the  following  rule  be  observed  there  will  be  a  great 
saving  of  patience  as  well  as  coal :  Close  the  smoke- 
damper  as  soon  as  the  fire  begins  to  burn.  When  the 
coal  is  nearly  all  bright,  close  all  the  other  draughts  and 
dampers  unless  a  very  hot  oven  be  required,  in  which 
case  let  the  slide  at  the  bottom  of  the  grate  remain  open. 
Just  as  soon  as  the  oven  or  the  top  of  the  range  is  required 
less  hot,  close  all  draughts  and  open  the  checks.  When 


64  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

greater  heat  is  required,  open  the  draughts  and  close  the 
checks  again.  It  is  really  like  using  an  organ;  when 
soft,  low  tones  are  required  the  stops  are  closed,  but  as 
one  wishes  to  increase  the  volume  of  tone  the  stops  are 
opened. 

Following  this  rule,  the  writer  has  frequently  used  a 
lire  for  six  hours  without  replenishing  it;  one  hod  of 
coal  being  put  on  at  the  start. 

The  range  should  be  washed  off  with  soap  and  water, 
and  then  rubbed  with  a  stove-brush.  The  top  may 
be  blacked,  but  the  hearth  and  sides  should  only  be 
washed  and  brushed,  as  blacking  would  soil  dresses  and 
aprons. 

Good  modern  stoves  are  made  in  such  a  way  that  ashes 
and  cinders  can  be  taken  out  without  making  much  dust. 
Now,  in  making  a  fire,  first  collect  in  the  grate  all  the 
ashes  and  cinders  from  the  top  of  the  stove ;  then  put  on 
the  covers,  shut  the  doors,  and  dump  the  contents  of  the 
grate  into  the  ash-pan.  Remove  the  ash-pan  and  empty 
its  contents  into  the  sifter ;  then  return  the  pan  to  its 
place,  and  close  the  door.  Put  shavings  or  paper  into 
the  grate,  and  place  on  top  several  pieces  of  light  wood, 
crossing  them,  so  as  to  cause  a  draught  of  air  through 
them.  Add  three  or  four  sticks  of  hard  wood,  and  set 
the  shavings  on  fire,  opening  all  the,  draughts  in  the 
stove.  As  soon  as  the  wood  begins  to  burn,  cover  it 
about  six  inches  deep  with  coal.  Watch  the  fire  to  pre- 
vent the  coal  from  burning  too  red ;  but  just  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  take  fire,  close  all  the  oven  dampers,  keeping 
open  only  the  slide  in  front  of  the  grate. 

Be  careful  that  the  coal  does  not  come  above  the  lin- 
ing of  the  stove.  A  different  practice  will  result  in  a 
waste  of  fuel ;  and  besides,  the  fire  will  not  be  so  bright 
and  clear,  because  the  draught  will  not  be  so  good.  When 
you  are  not  using  the  fire,  keep  the  dampers  closed.  It 
will  be  ready  when  needed,  and  the  draughts  can  be 
opened  then.  , 


CARE   OF   UTENSILS   AND   FURNITURE.  65 

If,  after  dinner,  you  wish  to  have  a  clear  fire  for  bak- 
ing purposes,  fet  the  lire  burn  quite  low ;  then  remove 
all  the  covers,  and  with  a  long  poker,  rake  the  coals' 
from  one  end  of  the  grate  to  the  other.  When  all  the 
ashes  have  been  raked  down  in  this  way,  and  all  the  coal 
has  been  separated,  put  two  sticks  of  hard  wood  into  the 
stove,  and  fill  up  with  fresh  coal.  Then  the  fire  will  be 
quite  as  good  as  if  freshly  made.  When  you  wish  to 
keep  just  enough  fire  to  make  tea  and  toast,  put  on  cin- 
ders after  dinner,  and  shut  all  the  dampers  until  twenty 
minutes  before  the  fire  is  again  needed.  Reopening  the 
draughts  will  quickly  rekindle  the  fire. 


66  MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


ABOUT    FOOD. 

MARKETING  has  been  treated  so  fully  in  "Miss  Par- 
loa's  New  Cook  Book  and  Marketing  Guide  "  that  there 
is  no  occasion  for  an  exhaustive  article  in  this  volume. 
But  new  ideas  constantly  come  to  one  who  makes  a 
study  of  matters  pertaining  to  the  kitchen,  and  it  seems 
worth  the  while  to  record  some  of  them  here. 

Fashion  affects  food  as  well  as  clothing,  and  many 
articles  in  the  market  that  may  have  no  great  value  as  a 
food  command  exorbitant  prices  simply  because  they 
are  in  fashion.  For  example,  time  was  when  sweet- 
breads were  almost  given  away;  now  they  are  rarely 
sold  for  less  than  thirty  cents  a  pair  in  large  cities,  and 
in  winter  they  often  bring  $1.50.  At  present,  calves' 
brains  sell  at  ten  cents  a  pair ;  but  as  they  are  becoming 
fashionable,  doubtless  they  will  in  time  be  worth  a  quar- 
ter of  a  dollar.  With  vegetables  and  fruit  it  is  different, 
because  when  fashion  creates  a  demand  for  an  article, 
gardeners  quickly  give  special  attention  to  its  cultiva- 
tion, and  the  increased  demand  is  met  by  an  increased 
supply,  and  prices  become  lower  instead  of  higher.  Good 
sense,  as  well  as  fashion,  dictates  a  free  use  of  fruits  and 
vegetables,  and  our  markets  are  well  stocked  with  them 
all  the  year  round.  Prices,  too,  are  reasonable. 

VEGETABLES. 

Cauliflower. 

This  vegetable,  which  used  to  be  so  expensive,  is  now 
so  cheap  in  the  late  summer  and  fall  that  the  poorest 
man  can  indulge  in  it,  and  besides  being  cheap  at  that 


ABOUT  FOOD.  67 


season,  it  also  is  large  and  perfect.  It  is  found  in  large 
markets  at  any  season,  but  in  the  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer the  heads  are  small  and  costly.  It  is  a  pity  that  so 
few  people  know  how  to  cook  this  delicious  vegetable. 
When  bought,  it  should  be  white  and  firm,  and  the  green 
leaves  surrounding  it  should  be  crisp.  It  always  im- 
proves the  cauliflower  to  soak  it  in  a  pan  of  salted  cold 
water  —  one  table-spoonful  of  salt  to  two  quarts  of  water 
—  for  an  hour  before  cooking.  This  will  freshen  the 
vegetable,  and  draw  out  worms  or  snails,  if  there  be  any 
concealed  in  the  leaves  or  head. 

Asparagus. 

Asparagus  is  now  bleached  in  somewhat  the  same 
manner  that  celery  is.  This  is  the  fashion  in  New  York 
and  its  vicinity ;  but  it  is  an  unfortunate  fashion,  for  the 
vegetable  does  not  compare  in  flavor  or  tenderness  with 
the  old-fashioned  green  asparagus.  This  vegetable  used 
to  be  good  until  about  the  last  of  June,  after  which  it 
became  "woody."  Now,  however,  it  comes  earlier  and 
stays  later,  being  tender  and  delicate  until  the  first  of 
August.  This  is  such  a  delicious  and  healthful  vegeta- 
ble that  it  is  a  pity  we  cannot  extend  its  season  still 
more. 

Brussels  Sprouts. 

This  vegetable,  so  scarce  and  expensive  a  few  years 
ago,  is  now  quite  common  in  our  large  markets.  It  is 
raised  in  this  country  and  also  is  imported  from  England. 
It  belongs  to  the  cabbage  family ;  grows  from  three  to 
five  feet  in  height,  and  produces  from  the  stem  small 
heads  resembling  miniature  cabbages.  The  stalk  is  usu- 
ally covered  with  these  little  heads.  The  top  of  the 
stalk  terminates  in  a  large  head  similar  to  a  cabbage. 

Brussels  sprouts  should  be  compact  and  firm,  like  heads 
of  cabbage.  The  loose  heads  will  prove  unsatisfactory. 
The  sprouts  should  be  fresh  and  crisp.  The  outer  leaves 


68  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

are  taken  off,  and  the  firm  heads  are  soaked  in  salted 
cold  water  for  an  hour  before  cooking. 

Broccoli. 

Broccoli  closely  resembles  cauliflower,  and  is  treated  in 
much  the  same  manner.  It  does  not  grow  so  well  in  this 
country  as  cauliflower,  and  therefore  is  not  cultivated  to 
the  same  extent. 

Salsify. 

This  is  found  in  the  market  the  greater  part  of  the 
year.  Its  root  is  the  part  eaten,  and  it  is  about  the  shape 
and  color  of  a  parsnip,  but  much  smaller.  Salsify  is  sold 
in  small  bunches.  It  is  a  cheap  and  delicate  vegetable, 
and  can  be  served  in  many  ways. 

Kohl-Rabi. 

This  is  sometimes  called  turnip-rooted  cabbage.  When 
this  root  is  cooked  it  is  treated  like  a  turnip,  and  the 
result  is  a  dish  with  a  flavor  between  that  of  a  turnip 
and  a  cabbage.  Kohl-rabi  can  be  kept  through  the 
winter. 

Sweet  Spanish  Peppers. 

The  large  sweet  Spanish  pepper  is  now  used  while 
green  as  a  vegetable.  It  is  much  milder  than  the  com- 
mon bell-pepper,  although  they  look  so  much  alike  that 
it  is  often  difficult  to  distinguish  them.  They  are  gener- 
ally stuffed  and  baked.  The  ripe  pods  may  be  dried 
and  kept  for  seasoning  many  dishes  which  are  improved 
by  the  peculiar  pungent  flavor  given  by  the  pods. 

The  Egg-Plant. 

This  vegetable  can  be  found  in  the  market  the  greater 
part  of  the  year.  It  is  in  perfection  through  the  sum- 
mer, fall,  and  early  part  of  winter.  Like  most  of  our 
vegetables,  this  is  supplied  to  the  North  by  the  South 
in  the  early  weeks  of  summer,  and  later  in  the  season 


ABOUT  FOOD. 


the  North  reciprocates.      The  egg-plant  is  popular  and 
cheap,  and  when  properly  cooked  is  delicious. 

Okra. 

This  is  found  in  the  market  nearly  all  the  year.  Al- 
ways highly  prized  at  the  South,  it  is  becoming  more 
popular  at  the  North  every  year.  It  is  delicious  as  a 
vegetable  or  in  soup.  The  price  varies  considerably 
with  the  season  and  supply.  The  pods  should  be  green 
and  crisp. 

Celeriac. 

This  vegetable  is  sometimes  called  German,  and  some- 
times knob,  celery.  It  is  an  irregular  brownish  root, 
and  is  used  as  a  vegetable  and  as  a  salad.  It  is  cheap, 
and  keeps  well  for  winter  use  if  packed  in  sand  or 
earth. 

Shallot. 

The  shallot  belongs  to  the  onion  family.  The  large 
bulb  is  made  up  of  a  number  of  small  ones,  which  are 
called  cloves.  This  plant  has  not  so  strong  an  odor  as 
the  common  onion,  and  for  that  reason  is  preferred  by 
many  in  soups,  sauces,  ar?d  salads. 

Garlic. 

Garlic  is  like  the  shallot  in  many  ways.  The  root  is 
composed  of  numerous  small  bulbs,  which  are  called 
cloves.  They  are  smaller  than  the  cloves  of  the  shallot, 
and  the  flavor  and  odor  differ  somewhat. 

Rocambole. 

This  vegetable  is  very  much  like  garlic,  but  is  milder. 

Spanish   Onions. 

It  is  only  a  few  years  since  the  Spanish  onion  was 
found  only  at  fruit-stores.  Now  it  can  be  bought  in  all 
the  markets.  It  is  a  large  white  onion,  very  delicate 
in  flavor  and  odor.  Cut  in  thin  shavings,  it  is  used  by 


70  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

itself  as  a  salad,  or  is  mixed  with  other  vegetables  to 
give  a  delicate  flavor  of  onion.  It  also  is  served  as  a 
vegetable,  fried,  boiled,  or  stuffed  and  baked. 

Escarole. 

This  vegetable  is  used  principally  as  a  salad.  The 
leaves  should  be  broad  and  crisp.  Escarole  has  a  bitter 
taste.  It  is  particularly  good  in  winter  as  a  salad, 
either  served  alone  or  mixed  with  lettuce.  The  French 
esteem  this  as  one  of  their  best  salads.  Each  year  it  is 
becoming  better  known  in  this  country,  French  garden- 
ers introducing  it  into  the  city  markets. 

Barbe  de  Capucin,  or  Monk's  Beard. 

This  is  a  variety  of  escarole.  It  is  grown  in  dark 
places,  such  as  cellars  or  vaults.  The  leaves  are  long, 
narrow,  tender,  and  almost  white.  The  flavor  is  a 
pleasant  bitter  one.  The  vegetable  makes  a  nice  salad 
by  itself,  or  may  be  mixed  with  lettuce,  sorrel,  etc.  It 
is  sometimes  served  in  fish  sauce  or  as  a  garnish  for  fish. 
Barbe  de  Capucin  and  escarole  belong  to  the  endive 
family.  Either  makes  a  most  desirable  salad  to  serve 
with  game. 

Cress. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  cresses,  —  the  garden  cress  and 
the  water-cress,  which  is  grown  in  water.  They  are 
found  in  the  market  from  early  spring  until  very  late 
in  the  autumn.  Cresses  by  themselves  make  a  delicious 
salad ;  or  they  may  be  combined  with  young  onions, 
cucumbers,  or  tomatoes.  Sometimes,  too,  they  are  served 
with  a  simple  dressing  and  a  few  green  herbs. 

Sorrel. 

Sorrel  is  a  vegetable  that  is  particularly  grateful  in 
the  spring  and  early  summer.  It  is  found  in  the  large 
markets  as  early  as  February  and  March.  This  culti- 
vated sorrel  is  much  larger,  milder,  and  tenderer  than 


ABOUT  FOOD.  71 


the  wild  plant  which  grows  all  over  the  country.  But 
a  little  of  the  wild  sorrel  is  often  a  great  addition  to  a 
salad,  sauce,  or  soup.  That  which  is  found  around 
flower-beds  is  usually  large  and  tender. 

Fetticus. 

This  vegetable  is  sometimes  called  lamb's  lettuce,  and 
sometimes  corn  salad.  As  a  salad,  it  is  not  so  pleasing 
as  those  already  mentioned ;  but  it  is  one  of  the  earliest 
green  salads  and  is  usually  quite  cheap. 

Chervil,   Borage,  and  Tarragon. 

These  are  all  excellent  herbs  for  use  in  salads,  soups, 
and  sauces.  They  may  be  found  in  the  large  markets 
from  early  spring  until  late  autumn.  They  can  be 
raised  in  the  garden  with  the  common  herbs,  such  as 
parsley,  thyme,  sage,  etc.  When  chervil  and  tarragon 
are  in  season,  break  up  a  small  bunch  of  each  —  they 
will  cost  five  cents  apiece  —  and  put  into  two  wide- 
mouthed  bottles.  Now  pour  into  each  bottle  about  one 
quart  of  vinegar.  Put  on  the  covers  and  set  in  a  cool 
place.  At  the  end  of  a  month  strain  off  the  vinegar,  and 
you  will  have  tarragon  and  chervil  vinegar  ready  for  use 
in  salads  or  sauces. 

While  the  herbs  are  fresh  and  cheap,  tie  up  a  bunch 
of  each  and  hang  in  the  shade  to  dry.  They  will  add 
much  to  the  flavor  of  soups  and  sauces  in  the  winter. 

FRUITS. 

Fruit  is  an  important  item  in  the  housekeeper's  list  of 
supplies.  Being  of  a  perishable  nature,  judgment  and 
care  must  be  used  in  the  purchase  and  use  of  it.  If  one 
have  a  cold,  well- ventilated  cellar,  many  things  —  such  as 
apples,  oranges,  and  pears  —  may  be  bought  in  quantity 
when  cheap.  But  it  is  better  to  buy  most  of  the  fruits 
only  as  they  are  required  for  the  table.  When  berries 


72  MISS   FARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


are  in  season  it  is  best  to  buy  only  what  is  required  for 
each  day,  unless  one  be  at  a  distance  from  the  mar- 
kets. Strawberries,  blueberries,  and  blackberries  keep 
about  equally  well ;  raspberries  are  the  most  perishable 
of  all  our  common  fruits.  You  may  put  them  in  your 
cellar  or  refrigerator  at  night,  expecting  to  find  them 
firm  and  bright  in  the  morning,  and  you  will  often  be 
sadly  disappointed  to  find  them  one  mass  of  mould. 
When  purchasing  these  berries  for  preserving,  have  all 
your  plans  so  made  that  you  can  do  the  work  as  soon  as 
the  berries  are  brought  home.  This  is  the  only  way  in 
which  to  be  sure  of  saving  all.  Other  berries  will  keep 
well  for  a  day  or  more. 

To  keep  fruit,  avoid  crowding  it.  The  boxes  or  bowls 
containing  it  should  not  be  covered,  and  the  room  should 
be  cool,  sweet,  and  well  ventilated.  Washing  fruit  mars 
the  flavor  and  softens  the  fruit,  and  it  will  not  keep  so 
well.  To  some  tastes  fruit  is  more  palatable  if  it  has 
been  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  has  stood  for  some  hours 
afterward.  Berries,  however,  should  not  be  treated  in 
this  way  unless  it  be  necessary  to  do  it  in  order  to  keep 
them  for  a  few  hours,  because  the  sugar  draws  out  the 
juice.  Grapes,  bananas,  pears,  watermelons,  cantaloupes, 
and  pineapples  all  keep  well  in  cold  places,  and  should 
be  thoroughly  chilled  before  they  are  served. 

MEATS. 

Among  the  various  cuts  of  meat  there  are  some  which 
are  well  known  only  to  a  few  butchers  and  caterers.  In 
many  small  towns  butchers  do  not  know  what  the  fillet 
of  beef  is  ;  and  although  they  may  know,  they  frequently 
are  unwilling  to  cut  it  out  for  a  customer,  because  it 
injures  the  sale  of  the  rest  of  the  piece.  In  a  small 
part  of  the  United  States  the  hind-quarter  of  beef  is  so 
cut  that  what  is  called  a  "  short  fillet "  can  be,  and  is, 
taken  from  one  of  the  cuts  without  loss  to  the  buyer  or 


ABOUT  FOOD. 


73 


the  seller  of  the  rest  of  the  cut  from  which  it  is  taken. 
This  is  often  done  in  Boston.  This  short  fillet  is  cut 
from  the  rump,  and  rarely  weighs  more  than  two  pounds 


SIRLOIN  ROAST. 

A,  Tenderloin.    B,  Back  of  Sirloin.     C,  Flank.     D,  Suet. 

and  a  half.  The  price  is  seldom  more  than  thirty-five 
cents  a  pound.  When  a  fillet  is  cut  from  the  loin  the 
price  charged  is  from  seventy-five  cents  to  a  dollar  a 
pound  ;  and  even  at  that  price  it  does  not  always  pay 


SIRLOIN  ROAST,  WITH  TENDERLOIN  REMOVED. 

A,  Tenderloin.    B,  Back  of  Sirloin.    C,  Flank. 

the  butcher  to  sell  it,  because  for  most  customers  it  spoils 
the  roasts  or  steaks  that  are  left. 

In   a  large  or  moderate-sized  family  it  is  not  a  bad 
plan  to  buy  a  large  sirloin  roast,  as  the  fillet  can  be  cut 


74  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

out  and  used  for  one  dish,  and  the  flank  be  used  for 
braising,  stewing,  soup  meat,  etc.  Or,  the  flank  may  be 
left  on  the  roast,  folded  over  the  place  from  which  the 
tenderloin  was  taken,  and  then  fastened  firmly  with 
skewers,  giving  a  handsome  roast. 

In  large  establishments,  like  Delinonico's  in  New  York, 
where  so  many  tenderloins  of  beef  are  served  in  various 
ways,  after  removing  the  fillet,  they  cut  off  the  flank, 
using  it  for  divers  purposes,  and  then  they  cut  the  rest 
of  the  joint  into  steaks,  freeing  it  from  the  greater  part 
of  the  backbone.  These  pieces  are  called  "  short  steaks," 
and  are  delicious. 

If  one  want  a  fillet  weighing  about  three  pounds, — 
enough  for  a  party  of  twelve,  —  get  the  first  cut  of  the 
sirloin,  as  this  part  has  the  thickest  tenderloin.  If  the 
cut  be  from  a  heavy  animal,  eighteen  pounds  will  give 
about  three  pounds  of  tenderloin.  This  piece  would  cost, 
at  25  cents  per  pound,  $4.50.  If  the  three  pounds  of 
tenderloin  were  bought  separately,  the  lowest  price  would 
be  $2.25,  and  in  all  probability  it  would  be  $3.  Besides, 
a  butcher  will  not  always  sell  the  tenderloin. 

If  the  family  be  large,  it  will  be  economical  and  satis- 
factory in  cold  weather  to  buy  the  first  cut  of  the  sir- 
loin. With  a  small  family,  it  will  be  better  to  buy  only 
the  piece  you  want,  no  matter  what  the  price,  provided 
you  can  get  the  butcher  to  cut  it. 

Entrecdte  Steak. 

This  is  a  rib  steak,  and  one  that  is  little  known  and 
little  used  in  the  United  States.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
steaks  in  the  animal.  The  meat  that  is  cut  with  one  rib 
will  give  two  steaks.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  backbone 
and  the  rib  by  slipping  a  sharp  knife  between  the  bones 
and  flesh.  Stop  where  the  flesh  becomes  thin  on  the 
rib,  and  cut  across  the  end  of  the  meat.  Now  cut  the 
piece  of  clear  meat  into  two  steaks.  The  backbone  and 
ribs  may  be  used  for  soups  or  stews. 


ABOUT  FOOD.  75 


Chuck  Steaks. 

Another  steak  that  is  frequently  cut  to  take  the  place 
of  the  round  steak  is  the  chuck  steak.  This  is  cut  from 
the  chuck  ribs.  It  makes  an  excellent  cheap  steak.  It 
is  about  four  or  five  cents  less  a  pound  than  the  round 
steak ;  but  this  does  not  make  it  any  cheaper  than  the 
round,  because  there  is  so  much  bone  in  it. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. 

This  is  another  cut  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  the  butch- 
ers to  give  you,  even  when  they  know  what  it  is  and 
how  it  is  obtained.  There  is  the  same  objection  to  cut- 
ting this  piece  from  the  leg  that  there  is  to  taking  the 


Fricandeau  of  Veal. 

tenderloin  from  the  sirloin  of  beef ;  namely,  it  spoils  the 
piece  termed  the  fillet.  The  fricandeau  consists  of  that 
part  of  the  leg  of  veal  called  the  cushion  or  mousepiece, 
and  which  the  French  call  the  noix.  It  is  what  in  a  leg  of 
beef  would  be  called  the  top  of  the  round.  It  costs  about 
thirty-five  cents  per  pound.  Three  or  four  pounds  is  about 
the  average  weight  of  a  good-sized  fricandeau.  It  should 
be  cut  about  four  inches  thick,  and  a  large  piece  of  the  fat 
called  the  udder  should  be  left  on  it.  A  wooden  vegetable- 
masher  should  be  dipped  in  cold  water,  and  the  fricandeau 
be  beaten  flat  until  it  is  only  about  three  inches  thick. 

Fillet  of  Veal. 

The  entire  fillet  of  veal,  or  a  piece  from  the  shoulder, 
is  frequently  used  for  a  fricandeau,  but  it  does  not  give 
the  same  result  that  the  cushion  gives. 


76  MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

The  fillet  of  veal  is  the  cut  from  the  upper  part  of  the 
leg.     It  includes  all  the  upper  part,  and  may  be  from 


Fillet  of  Veal.  —  Part  above  dotted  line  is  the  fricandeau. 

four  to  six  inches  thick.     Only  one  good  fillet  can  be  cut 
from  a  leg  of  veal.     It  costs  about  thirty  cents  a  pound. 

Veal  Cutlets. 

These  are  often  cut  from  the  leg,  and  many  persons 
are  unacquainted  with  cutlets  from  any  other  part  of  the 
animal.  The  rib  chops  are  the  true  cutlets,  and  are  much 
more  tender  and  savory  than  those  obtained  from  the  leg. 
They  are  cut  and  trimmed  like  a  mutton-chop  when  it  is 
taken  from  the  ribs;  but  as  they  must  be  cut  thinner, 
there  are  three  cutlets  to  two  ribs,  —  that  is,  there  are 
two  cutlets  with  the  rib  bones  and  one  without  any  bone. 
Have  all  the  trimmings  from  these  cutlets  sent  home  for 
the  soup-pot. 

Porterhouse  Chops. 

These  chops  are  but  little  known,  but  they  are  very 
popular  with  gentlemen  who  try  them  once.  They  re- 
semble English  chops.  This  is  the  way  they  are  cut : 
Trim  nearly  all  the  flank  from  a  loin  of  mutton.  Now, 
about  one  inch  from  the  end  of  the  loin,  saw  through  the 
backbone,  being  careful  not  to  cut  into  the  meat.  Move 
the  saw  one  inch  farther  up  the  loin  and  cut  through  the 
bone  again,  and  then  cut  the  chop  off  with  a  sharp  knife. 
This  gives  a  chop  two  inches  thick,  with  the  bone  sawed 
in  two.  Now  take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut  out  half  of  the 


ABOUT  FOOD.  77 


bone,  being  careful  not  to  cut  the  meat  too  much.  Trim 
off  some  of  the  fat ;  then  place  the  chop  on  its  side,  hav- 
ing the  side  in  which  the  bone  remains  come  under. 
Give  it  two  or  three  blows  with  the  flat  side  of  the 
cleaver,  and  it  will  be  flattened  out  to  resemble  a  large 
English  chop  and  be  about  one  inch  thick.  Any  butcher 
should  be  able  to  cut  such  chops  by  these  directions. 

It  is  very  important,  when  trimming  off  the  fat,  to  do 
the  work  in  just  the  right  way.  Having  the  fatty  side 
of  the  chop  nearest  you,  cut  away  from  the  centre  so  as 
to  leave  a  ridge  of  fat  extending  the  length  of  the  chop ; 
yet  all  parts  of  the  back  of  the  chop  should  be  covered 
with  at  least  a  little  fat.  When  the  meat  is  pounded  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  fat  does  not  spread  readily,  and 
that  but  for  this  careful  trimming,  the  chop  would  look 
over-weighted  with  fat. 

Mutton. 

The  strong  taste  in  mutton  to  which  people  often  ob- 
ject is  largely  due  to  a  lack  of  proper  care  in  trimming 
and  cooking  the  meat.  This  flavor,  instead  of  being  a 
quality  belonging  to  the  lean  part  of  the  meat,  is  almost 
always  given  by  the  fat.  Frequently,  when  the  sheep 
are  skinned,  a  thin  membrane  to  which  a  little  wool 
clings,  is  left  on.  It  is  hardly  perceptible  unless  closely 
examined.  This  is  what  gives  that  rather  unpleasant 
flavor  to  some  properly  cooked  meat. 

A  thin  shaving  of  fat  should  be  taken  off  every  piece 
of  mutton,  whether  it  be  a  chop,  leg,  or  loin.  A  very 
'  sharp  knife  will  be  required  for  this  operation. 

Another  cause  of  the  taste  so  disagreeable  in  mutton 
is,  that  it  is  often  fried  instead  of  broiled ;  or  if  it  be 
"  roasted,"  it  is  put  into  a  dripping-pan  without  a  rack  or 
grate  under  it,  and  it  stews  in  its  own  fat  instead  of  be- 
ing roasted.  Even  a  delicate  piece  of  spring  lamb  can 
be  made  to  taste  strong  and  r^sagreeable  by  this  method 
of  cooking. 


78  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Tongues. 

Every  one  knows  the  value  of  a  beef  tongue,  but  few 
people  realize  how  delicious  a  calf's,  sheep's,  lamb's,  or 
pig's  tongue  may  be.  There  is  so  little  demand  for  them 
that  they  are  cheap.  Get  those  which  are  plump,  firm, 
and  rather  white.  When  they  look  dark  and  flabby  they 
have  come  from  a  poorly  fed  animal,  and  will  be  found 
tough  and  without  good  flavor. 

These  small  tongues  may  be  put  in  brine  for  a  few 
days  and  then  boiled,  or  they  may  be  partially  boiled 
and  then  braised,  or  they  may  be  stewed.  They  are 
cheap,  and,  cold  or  hot,  make  a  handsome  dish. 

Sweetbreads. 

The  calf  and  young  lamb  are  the  animals  that  yield 
the  sweetbreads  which  are  used  as  food.  Lamb  sweet- 
breads usually  are  left  in  the  forequarter,  and  are  cooked 
with  it.  They  are  rarely  cooked  separately.  They  are, 
however,  sometimes  sold  by  the  pound  or  pair,  the  same 
as  veal  sweetbreads. 

Sweetbreads  are  good  only  so  long  as  the  animal  is  fed 
chiefly  on  milk.  The  sweetbreads  from  a  calf  that  has 
been  fed  wholly  on  grass  for  one  or  two  weeks  before 
being  slaughtered  will  be  dark,  flabby,  and  tough,  where- 
as those  from  a  calf  that  has  been  fed  generously  with 
milk  will  be  white,  firm,  and  tender.  Sweetbreads  spoil 
very  quickly,  and  should  not  be  kept  long,  even  on  ice. 
In  the  late  spring  and  summer  they  are  the  cheapest,  but 
in  winter  they  are  very  expensive  and  scarce.  Like  all 
other  articles  of  food,  they  may  be  frozen,  and  kept  in 
that  way  for  months  at  a  time. 

GAME. 

The  local  names  given  to  some  kinds  of  game  are 
very  confusing  to  the  inexperienced  housekeeper.  This 
is  particularly  the  case  with  partridges,  grouse,  and 


ABOUT  FOOD.  79 


quail.  The  quail  is  a  small  bird,  about  the  size  of  a 
squab,  and  is  kiiown  by  the  name  of  quail  throughout 
the  North  and  West.  At  the  South,  however,  this  bird 
is  known  as  the  partridge. 

Again,  the  real  partridge,  the  grouse,  and  the  ptar- 
migan are  often  indiscriminately  called  grouse  or  par- 
tridge. There  is  this  distinction  between  partridge 
and  grouse :  the  meat  of  the  former  is  white,  and  that 
of  the  latter  dark.  The  partridge  is  frequently  called 
ruffled  grouse.  These  birds  are  common  in  the  Eastern 
States.  The  season  for  them  is  between  October  and 
January. 

Grouse  is  sometimes  called  prairie  chicken  and  some- 
times red  grouse.  This  bird  is  found  in  great  abundance 
in  the  West.  The  season  is  from  September  to  April 
in  some  sections  of  the  country,  and  in  others  it  is  from 
October  to  January.  Game  laws  vary  considerably  in 
the  several  States. 

Ptarmigan  is  not  so  well  known  as  the  other  two 
birds,  but  it  is  often  sold  under  the  name  of  grouse,  or 
white-breasted  grouse.  It  resembles  the  grouse  very 
closely ;  but  the  plumage,  instead  of  being  brown,  like 
that  of  the  true  grouse,  is  almost  white.  The  feet  are 
covered  with  fine  white  feathers  resembling  fur.  This 
bird  is  not  quite  so  large  as  the  grouse,  and  the  meat 
is  a  little  drier.  It  comes  from  the  cold  climate  of 
Canada  and  the  country  bordering  on  Hudson  Bay.  It 
is  very  welcome  in  the  market ;  for  it  comes  in  about  the 
last  of  January,  when  the  game  law  prohibits  the  sale 
of  grouse.  Ptarmigan  is  prepared  in  exactly  the  same 
manner  as  grouse. 

The  same  cold  region  from  which  it  comes  supplies 
the  markets  with  antelope,  which  reaches  the  markets 
as  deer  goes  out.  This  is  a  smaller  animal  than  the 
deer,  and  its  flesh  is  paler  and  more  delicate.  It  is, 
however,  cooked  in  aboutrthe  same  manner. 


80  MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

FISH. 

Lobsters. 

A  word  in  regard  to  lobsters.  In  sections  of  the  coun- 
try where  lobsters  are  caught  and  consumed  in  large 
quantities,  they  are  never  brought  into  the  market  alive 
except  to  fill  special  orders.  A  short  time  after  the 
lobster- catchers  take  them  from  the  pots  or  cages  they 
are  plunged  into  kettles  of  boiling  salt  water.  It  stands 
to  reason  that  the  meat  of  these  lobsters  must  be  better 
flavored  and  more  healthful  than  that  of  lobsters  which 
are  kept  out  of  water  several  days  before  being  cooked. 
Then,  too,  these  men  make  a  business  of  boiling  lobsters, 
and  know  just  how  to  do  it.  The  result  is,  firm  fine- 
flavored  meat. 

One  of  the  arguments  against  buying  boiled  lobsters 
is  that  one  cannot  tell  whether  they  are  stale  or  fresh. 
If  the  lobster  be  stale,  the  tail,  when  drawn  out,  will  be 
found  limp,  and  will  not  spring  back ;  besides,  a  stale 
lobster ,  always  'gives  out  a  very  unpleasant  odor.  It 
seems  as  if  everything  were  in  favor  of  the  lobster's 
being  boiled  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  water. 

The  time  of  boiling  this  fish  depends  upon  the  size. 
They  rarely  weigh  more  than  three  pounds  now,  and  are 
often  as  light  as  a  pound  and  a  half.  The  small  ones 
can  be  boiled  in  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  the  large 
ones  —  that  is,  those  weighing  three  pounds  —  in 
twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Too  rapid  and  too  long- 
boiling  makes  them  tough. 

Shrimp. 

Shrimp  are  usually  found  in  the  market  in  the  cooked 
state.  They  are  plunged  into  boiling  water  as  soon  as 
possible  after  being  taken  from  the  net.  Shrimp  are 
generally  sold  in  the  Southern  markets  in  the  shell,  but 
in  the  Northern  markets  they  are  usually  shelled.  They 


ABOUT   FOOD.  81 


are  nice  in  soup,  fish  sauces,  salads,  and  curries.  Canned 
shrimp  is  a  nice  article.  Either  canned  or  fresh  shrimp 
are  usually  so  salt  that  they  are  improved  by  standing 
m  cold  water  for  ten  minutes  or  more  before  being 
used. 

Prawns. 

These  fish  are  something  like  shrimp,  but  are  larger 
and  coarser.  They  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
shrimp. 

Crawfish. 

Crawfish  are  a  sort  of  fresh-water  lobster  in  miniature. 
They  are  usually  sold  by  the  dozen  and  in  the  shells. 
They  are  used  for  bisques  and  to  decorate  other  dishes 
of  fish. 

FILLETS. 

The  word  "  fillet,"  when  used  in  a  culinary  sense, 
means  a  delicate,  tender  piece  ;  so  when  we  wish  for  a 
fillet  of  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl,  we  take  it  from  the  tenderest 
part  of  the  animal.  All  the  flesh  of  fish  except  the 
flank  can  be  cut  into  small  fillets. 

Fillet  of  beef  is  the  tenderloin;  fillet  of  veal,  the 
upper  part  of  the  leg ;  fillet  of  fowl  or  birds,  the  breasts. 
There  are  four  fillets  in  the  breast  of  every  fowl  or  bird, 
two  large  and  two  small.  The  small  fillets  are  called 
minion  fillets.  Grouse  and  other  birds  are  frequently 
spoiled  by  shot;  or  they  are  sometimes  kept  so  long 
that  only  the  breast  is  sweet.  They  are  then  bought 
for  the  fillets.  If  you  wish,  the  butcher  will  fillet  them 
for  you. 

When  buying  fish  to  fillet,  save  in  the  case  of  halibut 
or  salmon,  it  is  best  to  get  rather  small  fish  that  will 
not  give  more  than  four  fillets  to  one  fish.  Bass  and 
flounder  are  used  the  most  for  this  purpose.  Bass  is 
dark  and  rich,  and  the  price  is  rather  high.  Flounder 


82  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

is  white  and  delicate,  and  always  cheap.  It  is  very 
much  like  sole,  and  fashionable  people  always  call  it 
sole.  The  fact  is,  sole  has  never  been  caught  in  Ameri- 
can waters ;  but  in  future  years  there  may  be  a  supply, 
as  the  Fish  Commissioners  have  made  an  attempt  to 
introduce  them  into  our  waters. 

WHEN    MEAT   AND   FISH   ARE   GOOD. 

Almost  all  fish  are  perfect  only  directly  after  they  come 
from  the  water,  and  begin  to  deteriorate  soon  afterward. 
The  lighter  and  more  delicate  the  fish,  the  poorer  the 
keeping  qualities.  Nothing  could  be  more  delicate  than 
the  white  fish  when  taken  from  the  great  Western  lakes, 
but  there  are  few  fish  that  bear  transportation  so  poorly. 
Again,  codfish,  when  cooked  directly  after  it  is  taken 
from  the  sea,  is  a  fish  fit  to  place  before  a  king ;  but  when 
it  has  been  packed  in  ice  and  carried  over  the  country, 
it  loses  its  fine  characteristics  and  becomes  rather  ordi- 
nary food  unless  great  pains  be  taken  in  its  preparation. 
The  richer  fish,  like  salmon,  halibut,  bass,  etc.,  will  bear 
transportation  and  keeping  better  than  the  lighter  kinds. 

It  is  well  to  remember  this,  —  that  an  ordinary  fish, 
freshly  caught  and  cooked,  will  always  surpass  in  deli- 
cacy and  wholesomeness  a  fish  of  the  rarer  and  richer 
kind  that  has  been  kept  days  or  weeks,  as  is  often  the 
case,  packed  in  ice. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  confine  the  greater  part  of  the  fish 
purchased  to  those  kinds  which  are  found  in  the  waters 
near  home.  Of  course,  there  are  localities  where  this 
would  mean  nothing  but  such  small  fry  as  is  caught  in 
brooks  and  ponds,  and  in  such  places  one  must  get  that 
which  is  brought  to  the  market. 

Never  buy  stale  fish.  It  will  look  flabby  and  dark, 
and  will  have  an  unpleasant  odor.  Fresh  fish  is  firm ; 
the  eyes  are  full  and  rather  bright,  and  the  odor,  while 
it  is  always  fishy,  will  not  be  disagreeable. 


ABOUT  FOOD.  83 


Turbot   is  an   exception   to  the   general   rule.     It   is 
better  for  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours'  keeping. 

There  is  one  thing  which  is  not  generally  understood 
by  butchers  and  housekeepers.  It  is  that  while  the 
fibres  of  the  flesh  of  an  animal  are  set,  as  they  are  as 
soon  as  the  animal  cools  after  being  killed,  the  meat  is 
much  harder  than  at  any  other  time.  For  this  reason  it 
should  not  be  cooked  while  in  this  state.  The  meat 
should  hang  at  least  twelve  hours  after  the  fibres  become 
set.  Chickens,  however,  may  be  dressed  and  cooked 
while  yet  warm,  and  the  meat  will  be  found  tender, 
juicy,  and  of  fine  flavor.  Let  the  same  chickens  stand 
until  the  fibres  get  hard  and  rigid,  and  then  cook  them, 
and  the  meat  will  not  be  nearly  so  tender  and  juicy. 
This  is  true  of  all  animals :  the  meat  should  be  cooked 
either  while  it  still  contains  the  natural  heat  or  not 
until  after  the  muscles  have  relaxed ;  the  time  of  relaxa- 
tion being  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours  after  the 
animal  is  killed.  This  time  answers  very  well  for 
poultry,  veal,  and  lamb.  The  last  two  meats  will  not 
retain  a  sweet  flavor  many  days.  Mutton  and  beef,  to 
be  in  perfection,  should  be  hung  for  about  three  weeks 
in  a  place  where  the  temperature  is  low.  This,  of  course, 
is  not  possible  in  warm  weather  or  in  a  warm  country, 
except  where  there  are  large  refrigerators  ;  but  all  first- 
class  butchers  have  such  refrigerators. 

When  buying  meat,  remember  that  the  flesh  of  ma- 
tured animals  will  keep  much  longer  than  that  of  young 
animals. 

Here  is  a  point  to  bear  in  mind  when  purchasing 
poultry.  Select  that  which  is  "  dry  picked,"  though  it 
may  cost  several  cents  more  a  pound.  Poultry  that  is 
scalded  before  being  picked  loses  much  of  its  flavor  and 
will  not  keep  so  well.  It  may  be  recognized  by  the  skin, 
which  will  be  smooth,  and  drawn  rather  tight  over  the 
flesh.  The  fowl  will  have  a  plump  appearance  because 
of  the  contraction  of  the  skin  by  the  heat.  About  three- 


84  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fourths  of  the  poultry  that  is  brought  into  the  markets 
is  scalded,  though  scalding  is  practised  much  more  in 
the  West  and  South  than  in  the  East. 

FROZEN    FOOD. 

Fish,  game,  poultry,  sweetbreads,  etc.,  often  are  frozen, 
either  to  permit  of  their  being  transported  to  places 
where  the  supply  of  such  articles  is  scanty,  or  to  provide 
in  times  of  plenty  for  demands  when  the  stock  shall 
have  run  low.  Large  quantities  of  frozen  food  are 
shipped  in  the  course  of  a  year  from  American  ports  to 
large  cities  in  Europe,  being  kept  in  refrigerators  on  the 
passage.  But  frozen  meats  and  fish  are  not  to  be  com- 
pared in  flavor  with  fresh  articles,  and  should  be  used 
only  when  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  anything  better. 
There  should  be  but  a  short  interval  between  the  thawing 
and  cooking. 

CANNED   GOODS. 

In  every  household  more  or  less  canned  goods  are 
used ;  and  as  the  consumption  appears  to  increase  stead- 
ily, this  subject  is  worth  considering  at  some  length. 
When  people  can  afford  the  luxury,  fruits,  fish,  and  vege- 
tables preserved  in  glass  jars  are  preferred  to  those  in 
tin ;  but  the  great  difference  in  cost  makes  an  immense 
difference  in  the  sales,  although  the  sale  of  food  con- 
tained in  jars  has  grown  considerably  within  the  last  few 
years. 

Every  little  while  there  is  a  scare  in  regard  to  canned 
goods,  caused  by  reports  of  poisoning  by  eating  canned 
meat  or  fish.  The  best  of  authorities  claim  that  the 
poisoning  is  not  caused  by  the  cans,  but  that  the  contents 
were  not  in  good  condition  when  packed.  Sometimes, 
too,  the  cans  are  not  carefully  sealed,  and  air  finds  its 
way  into  them.  This  will  cause  decomposition,  and 
gases  will  be  generated, 


ABOUT  FOOD.  85 


After  cans  have  been  filled  with  the  material  to  be  pre- 
served, the  tops  are  soldered  on,  a  small  hole  being  left 
in  each  piece.  The  cans  are  next  placed  in  a  bath,  the 
temperature  of  which  is  gradually  raised  until  all  the  air 
is  expelled  from  the  cans  through  the  small  opening  in 
the  cover.  This  opening  is  now  closed  and  soldered.  If 
all  this  work  be  done  properly,  the  food  will  keep  for 
years.  The  cans  are  now  put  in  a  test-room,  where  the 
temperature  is  very  high.  If  they  have  not  been  prop- 
erly sealed,  the  food  will  begin  to  decompose,  gas  will  be 
generated,  and  the  ends  will  begin  to  bulge  out.  Some- 
times dishonest  firms  have  these  cans  punctured  and  re- 
sealed.  This  is  not  common  ;  but  since  it  is  sometimes 
done,  the  housekeeper  should  examine  each  can,  and  if 
she  finds  that  two  holes  have  been  made  in  the  cover, 
should  reject  the  can. 

Good  and  Easy  Tests  of  Wholesomeness. 

A  prominent  physician  of  Brooklyn,  IS".  Y.,  gives  these 
rules  for  testing  canned  goods.  If  a  housekeeper  fol- 
lows them  she  will  not  be  liable  to  use  food  that  has 
decomposed  in  the  slightest  degree. 

"  Every  cap  should  be  examined ;  and  if  two  holes  be 
found  in  it,  send  the  can  to  the  Health  Board,  with  its 
contents,  and  the  name  of  the  grocer  who  sold  it. 

"  Reject  every  article  of  canned  food  that  does  not 
show  the  line  of  resin  around  the  edge  of  the  solder  of 
the  cap,  the  same  as  that  seen  on-  the  seam  at  the  side  of 
the  can. 

"  Press  up  the  bottom  of  the  can.  If  decomposition  is 
commencing,  the  tin  will  rattle  the  same  as  the  bottom 
of  the  oiler  of  a  sewing-machine  does.  If  the  goods  be 
sound,  it  will  be  solid,  and  there  will  be  no  rattle  to  the 
tin. 

"  Reject  every  can  that  shows  any  rust  around  the  cap 
on  the  inside  of  the  head  of  the  can." 


86  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Sources  of  Danger. 

There  are  other  sources  of  danger  besides  decomposi- 
tion. Many  folk  fear  tin  or  lead  poisoning.  The  conclu- 
sion has  been  reached  by  some  men  who  have  investigated 
the  matter  with  much  care  that  there  is  no  danger  to  be 
feared  from  the  cans,  but  that  the  solder  sometimes  causes 
trouble.  The  articles  most  likely  to  be  tinctured  are 
those  containing  a  good  deal  of  acid.  One  physician 
found  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a  can  were  fastened  by 
the  usual  resin  amalgam,  and  were  perfectly  bright  and 
sound ;  but  a  trained  tinsmith  pointed  out  that  the  cap 
of  the  can  was  fastened  on  with  an  amalgam  made  of 
muriate  of  zinc.  The  tin  was  corroded  around  the  cap 
on  the  inside  of  the  can.  The  mechanic  explained  that 
pieces  of  zinc  are  placed  in  muriatic  acid  and  dissolved, 
and  this  saturated  solution  of  zinc  had  been  painted  with 
a  brush  into  the  grooves  of  the  head  of  the  can.  He 
said  this  was  a  very  favorite  amalgam  with  roofers,  on 
account  of  the  quickness  with  which  it  could  be  applied, 
but  that  good  architects  and  builders  would  not  allow 
its  use,  because  it  rotted  the  tin.  It  is  safe  to  conclude 
that  wherever  the  inside  of  a  can-lid  shows  that  the  tin 
has  come  off  in  patches,  something  has  dissolved  it,  and 
it  is  mixed  with  the  can's  contents. 

Food  should  not  be  allowed  to  stand  for  many  hours  in 
an  open  can.  The  best  way  is  to  turn  it  into  an  earthen 
dish  as  soon  as  the  can  is  opened. 

French  Peas* 

French  peas  have  been  very  popular  in  the  past.  They 
are  delicate  and  of  a  good  color.  The  delicacy  comes 
from  their  being  picked  while  yet  small  and  young,  and 
they  are  also  naturally  greener  on  this  account.  The 
Boards  of  Health  in  several  cities  have  been  examining 
canned  peas,  and  have  found  that  many  brands  are  dan- 
gerous ;  sulphate  of  copper  being  used  to  make  the  peas 


ABOUT  FOOD.  87 


retain  their  beautiful  color.  In  some  places  a  warning 
has  been  given  by  the  authorities  against  the  use  of  the 
following-named  brands :  — 

Henry  Deler  et  O,  petit  pois  moyens. 

Daudicole'e  et  Gaudin,  Bordeaux,  petit  poia  inoyeus. 

J.  Nouville,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  moyens. 

Perry  fils,  A.  Lazun,  petit  pois  verts. 

E.  Estibal,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  extra  tins. 

E.  M.  Daelzin,  Bordeaux,  preparation  &  FAnglaise. 
D.  M.  Ansone,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  verts. 

L.  Carpe  et  O,  Lundeville,  haricots  verts  extra  fins. 
Soule  et  Prise,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  verts. 

F.  Fiton  aine,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  verts  au  naturel 

John  Moir  &  Son,  London,  Aberdeen,  and  Seville,  petit  pois  fins. 
Charles  Julien,  Paris,  petit  pois. 
Barton  fils,  (three  kinds)  petit  pois  fins. 
Fontaine  Frferes,  Paris,  petit  pois  extra  fins. 
Q.  Talbot,  Bordeaux,  petit  pois  verts  extra  fins. 

G.  Garies,  aine  et  fils,  (two  kinds)  petit  pois  fins. 
Louit  Freres  et  O,  petit  pois  surfins. 

B.  Eygrien,  petit  pois  verts. 

The  writer  has  freely  used  French  peas  —  no  particu- 
lar brand  —  for  a  great  many  years,  and  has  never  known 
of  any  ill  effects  from  eating  them.  In  preparing  these 
peas,  as  with  all  canned  peas  or  other  green  vegetables, 
the  water  in  which  they  were  canned  was  always  drained 
off  and  they  were  then  rinsed  in  clean  cold  water. 

Canned  Goods  a  Blessing. 

Taken  for  all  and  all,  canned  foods,  especially  fruits 
and  vegetables,  are  a  great  blessing,  and  as  safe  as  most 
of  the  food  that  we  use.  A  quartermaster  in  the  regular 
army,  who  has  held  that  position  for  years,  and  at  various 
posts  where  canned  food  was  a  necessity,  says  that  he 
never  knew  of  a  case  of  poisoning  from  its  use. 

When  buying  canned  goods  of  any  kind,  always  try  to 
get  those  which  have  been  put  up  near  where  the  fruit 
or  vegetable  is  found  in  the  best  state.  Apricots  that 


88  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

are  canned  in  Southern  California  are  better  than  those 
from  points  farther  north,  where  the  fruit  does  not  ripen 
so  perfectly ;  peaches  that  are  packed  near  the  orchards 
where  they  grow  are  superior  to  those  canned  in  large 
cities.  Blueberries  and  huckleberries  in  tin  are  said  to 
be  very  dangerous,  and  should  not  be  used  at  all. 

There  is  hardly  a  food  product  that  is  not  available  at 
all  times  of  the  year,  now  that  canning  and  preserving- 
are  brought  to  such  perfection ;  and  yet  no  housekeeper 
should  use  canned  food  if  she  can  get  just  as  good  an 
article  in  a  fresh  state. 

Among  the  canned  and  potted  goods  there  are  a  few 
which  may  be  classed  among  luxuries.  Some  of  these 
are  only  imperfectly  known.  For  the  benefit  of  the  young- 
housekeeper,  brief  mention  will  be  made  of  these  goods 
and  their  uses. 

Anchovies. 

These  fish  are  prepared  in  several  ways  for  the  market. 
Sometimes  they  are  preserved  whole,  in  either  oil  or  brine, 
and  in  small  bottles.  They  come  under  the  head  of 
relishes  in  this  form,  and  are  served  on  toast,  in  salads, 
omelets,  and  sauces.  Anchovy  paste  and  anchovy  es- 
sence are  sold  in  small  jars  and  bottles.  These  prepara- 
tions are  used  on  toast  and  in  sauces.  They  are  said  to 
be  adulterated  with  coloring  matter,  and  for  this  rea- 
son many  persons  prefer  to  buy  the  bottled  whole  fish 
and  make  their  own  paste  or  -essence.  These  prepara- 
tions of  anchovy  are  of  great  value  in  making  many  fish 
sauces  and  dainty  little  relishes  for  an  elegant  dinner  ov 
supper. 

Russian  Caviare. 

Caviare  is  the  roe  of  the  sturgeon.  It  is  put  up  in 
small  cans,  which  cost  fifty  cents.  It  is  served  on  toast 
with  a  bit  of  lemon.  Like  the  anchovies  on  toast,  cavi- 
are may  be  served  at  the  beginning  or  at  an  early  stage 
of  the  dinner.  It  is  also  served  as  a  relish  at  gentle- 
men's suppers. 


ABOUT  FOOD.  89 


Truffles. 

Truffles  are  being  used  in  this  country  much  more 
freely  than  formerly.  They  are  imported  in  small  cans 
from  France,  where  the  finest  truffles  in  the  world  are 
obtained.  They  are  found  in  oak  groves,  several  inches 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth.  They  grow  in  Eng- 
land, but  are  not  so  large  nor  fine-flavored  as  those  found 
in  France.  It  is  said  that  they  have  also  been  gathered 
in  the  oak  groves  in  California. 

When  they  are  taken  from  the  earth  the  aroma  is  very 
fine,  but  after  the  truffles  have  been  exposed  to  the  air 
for  a  time,  much  of  this  passes  off.  The  truffles  that 
come  in  cans  have  very  little  of  the  flavor  or  odor  of  the 
fresh  ones.  In  no  food  adjunct  does  one  get  so  little  for 
the  money.  The  smallest-sized  can,  holding  a  gill,  costs 
sixty  cents. 

Truffles  are  used  as  a  garnish  and  to  flavor  sauces  and 
made  dishes.  When  only  a  part  of  a  can  is  needed,  the 
remainder  may  be  covered  with  salad  oil  and  kept  in  a 
cool  place  until  required  for  use.  They  must  be  washed 
free  of  the  oil  before  using. 

Cdpes. 

Cepes  are  a  species  of  mushroom,  grown  largely  in 
Russia  and  to  some  extent  in  France.  They  are  thicker 
and  firmer  than  mushrooms.  They  come  canned  in  oil. 
After  they  have  been  washed  free  of  the  oil  they  will  be 
ready  for  use,  the  same  as  mushrooms. 

When  it  is  impossible  to  get  large  fresh  mushrooms 
for  broiling,  cepes  can  be  used  for  this  purpose  with  sat- 
isfactory results. 

Foie  Gras. 

Foie  gras  —  fat  liver  —  is  the  liver  of  a  goose  that  has 
been  kept  fastened  in  one  position  and  fed  generously 
with  corn  meal  for  several  weeks.  Under  this  treatment 
the  livers  grow  to  an  enormous  size.  They  are  prepared 


90  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

for  the  market  in  several  ways :  they  are  studded  with 
truffles,  cooked,  and  then  packed  in  tin  cans  or  in  flat 
earthen  jars,  being  in  the  latter  case  covered  with  a  thick 
layer  of  fat  to  exclude  the  air  ;  or  they  are  prepared 
without  the  truffles,  and  are  of  course  sold  for  less. 
Sometimes  force-meat  is  packed  with  them,  for  use  in 
making  a  pate.  Occasionally  one  sees  them  put  up  with 
force-meat,  seasoning,  and  a  crust  of  puff  paste.  In  this 
form  they  are  shipped  all  over  the  world. 

The  simplest  form  in  which  the  foie  gras  is  canned  is 
the  most  popular,  because  it  is  the  cheapest,  and  the  liv- 
ers can  then  be  prepared  in  any  way  that  suits  the  house- 
keeper's taste.  The  price  of  a  small  jar,  holding  about 
half  a  pint,  is  $  1.25.  This  is  enough  for  a  small  dish. 

Pat3  de  foie  gras  is  nearly  always  served  cold  in  some 
form,  and  is  generally  served  at  a  luncheon  or  supper,  if 
at  all. 

Suggestions  to  Housekeepers. 

The  list  of  the  canned,  potted,  and  bottled  delicacies 
for  the  table  is  very  long,  and  one  can  buy  at  first-class 
groceries  almost  everything  that  would  be  needed  for  a 
dinner,  and  few  of  the  dishes  require  any  preparation 
for  the  table  other  than  heating.  If  a  housekeeper 
should  desire  to  make  a  selection  of  these  prepared 
articles,  for  her  use  when  away  from  the  markets,  she 
can  send  to  a  first-class  grocer  for  his  catalogue.  She 
will  find  there  a  list  of  soups,  fish,  meats,  vegetables, 
preserves,  wine  jelly,  dessert  biscuit,  etc.,  from  which  to 
choose. 

RELISHES. 

India  chutney  is  a  sauce  that  is  held  in  high  favor  by 
gentlemen.  It  is  not  very  expensive,  and  keeps  well. 
It  is  a  combination  of  apples,  onions,  ginger,  vinegar, 
lemon  juice,  sugar,  and  other  seasonings.  Sometimes 
tomatoes  are  used.  It  is  served  the  same  as  pickles,  to 


ABOUT  FOOD.  91 


which  class  of  relishes  it  belongs.  It  is  also  added  to 
some  fish  sauces. 

Soy  is  a  sauce  made  in  China  and  Japan.  It  is  a  thick 
reddish-brown  liquid,  and  is  used  in  many  fish  sauces. 

The  queen  olive  is  very  large,  and  is  particularly  well 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  cooiing ;  therefore,  when  the 
olives  are  to  be  used  as  a  garnish  in  a  sauce  or  a  salad, 
or  when  they  are  to  be  stoned  and  stuffed  for  a  relish, 
the  queen  variety  is  the  best  for  use. 

The  "  baby  "  olive  is  considered  as  the  most  desirable 
for  ordinary  table  use. 

Stuffed  olives  come  bottled,  the  same  as  the  plain  fruit. 
They  make  a  pleasing  variation  as  a  relish  for  the  table 
or  for  a  picnic  party. 

FLAVORS. 

Some  of  the  flavors  which  have  been  in  use  in  Euro- 
pean cookery  for  the  last  century  or  more  are  beginning 
to  be  used  freely  in  this  country.  Cordials  are  among 
the  most  popular  flavors  for  various  kinds  of  creams  and 
jellies.  They  are  made  by  adding  a  rich  syrup  (obtained 
by  boiling  sugar  and  water  together)  to  distilled  spirits, 
and  flavoring  the  mixture  with  various  fruits  and  spices. 
These  cordials  are  always  rather  thick.  They  are  some- 
times clear  and  sometimes  slightly  colored.  Mention 
will  be  made  only  of  those  used  in  cookery. 

Maraschino  is  flavored  with  a  bitter  cherry. 

Cura$oa  is  flavored  with  orange-peel. 

Noyau  is  flavored  with  the  kernels  of  the  peach  and 
apricot. 

Eau  de  vie  de  Dantzic  is  made  of  brandy,  is  highly 
flavored,  and  has  gold  leaf  distributed  through  it.  This 
cordial  is  used  in  making  jellies.  There  is  rarely 
enough  gold  leaf  in  it  to  give  a  pretty  effect,  and  a  small 
quantity  may  be  cut  up  fine  and  put  in  the  bottl?  when 
it  is  opened.  A  small  book  of  gold  leaf  can  be  bought 
for  half  a  dollar  or  a  less  amount. 


92  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cordials  are  very  strong,  arid  only  a  small  quantity  is 
required  to  flavor  a  dish. 

In  buying  rum  for  cooking  purposes,  get  Santa  Cruz. 
A  small  pint  bottle  will* answer  in  a  small  family  for  a 
year,  if  it  be  used  only  for  flavoring  creams  or  puddings. 

CEREALS. 

Flour. 

Flour  made  from  wheat  is  so  largely  used  that  it  is 
one  of  the  most  important  items  in  the  housekeeper's 
list  of  food  supplies. 

The  processes  of  milling  have  changed  a  good  deal 
within  the  last  twenty-five  years.  We  now  have  what  is 
called  low  milling,  high  milling,  and  half-high  milling. 
Low  milling  is  the  old  process  of  grinding  between  two 
stones,  and  gives  us  the  old-process,  or  pastry,  flour. 
High  milling  is  the  new  process  of  cracking  the  wheat 
between  rollers.  Flour  made  by  the  first  process  is 
smooth  to  the  touch,  and  when  pressed  into  a  ball  in  the 
hand,  retains  its  shape.  This  flour  is  particularly  nice 
for  cake  and  pastry,  but  the  ordinary  brands  do  not  make 
good  bread. 

There  is  a  process  followed  by  many  millers,  called 
half-high  milling,  which  gives  flour  good  for  all  pur- 
poses. Nothing  is  better  for  bread  than  the  best  quality 
of  the  new-process  flour.  There  are  dozens  of  mills 
all  over  the  country  making  an  equally  good  article. 
Housekeepers  should  remember  this;  and  when  they 
become  accustomed  to  one  brand,  if  it  proves  satis- 
factory, they  should  not  change  for  an  unknown  brand. 
It  is  frequently  the  case  that  the  flour  from  one  mill 
will  require  a  little  different  treatment  from  that  made 
in  another.  Bread-making  demands  so  much  care  that  a 
housekeeper  should  take  no  chances  in  the  work.  The 
best  flour  is  the  cheapest,  as  there  is  no  waste*  in 
using  it. 


ABOUT  FOOD.  93 


New  flour  will  not  make  so  good  bread  as  that  which 
has  been  kept  for  a  few  months  after  milling.  New  flour 
made  from  good  wheat  will  have  a  very  sweet,  nutty 
flavor ;  but  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  make  light,  delicate 
bread  of  it.  The  dough  will  be  sticky,  and  what  cooks 
term  "  runny." 

Flour  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  room,  the  barrel 
being  placed  on  a  1'ow  rack,  so  that  there  shall  be  a  free 
circulation  of  air  under  it. 

The  best  flour  will  have  a  tinge  of  yellow;  reject 
flour  that  has  a  grayish  color. 

A  flour  that  retains  the  greater  part  of  the  wheat  is 
made  in  Lockport,  N.  Y.  It  is  sold  under  the  name  of 
"Franklin  Mills  Entire  Wheat  Flour."  It  is  dark- 
colored,  and  makes  a  rather  brown  bread  or  muffin. 
The  bread  made  of  it  is  very  sweet  and  nutritious.  The 
dough  must  be  made  much  softer  than  with  the  ordinary 
flour,  and  the  beating  and  kneading  be  very  thorough. 

Rye  Flour  and  Meal. 

Rye  flour  is  used  extensively  in  some  parts  of  the 
country.  It  is  a  fine-bolted  flour  made  of  rye.  The 
treatment  of  it  in  bread  is  about  the  same  as  that  of 
the  entire-wheat  flour. 

Rye  meal  is  used  much  more  than  the  flour  in  all  the 
New  England  States  except  Connecticut,  where  the  flour 
is  used  very  commonly.  Outside  of  New  England  it  is 
difficult  to  get  the  meal.  You  order  meal,  and  almost 
invariably  they  will  send  you  flour.  For  muffins,  Boston 
brown  bread,  and  mush,  the  meal  is  indispensable.  Only 
a  small  quantity  should  be  bought  at  a  time,  and  the 
meal  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Graham. 

Graham  is  one  of  the  most  uncertain  of  the  bread 
materials  with  which  we  have  to  deal.  A  large  part  of 
it  is  made  by  mixing  a  poor  quality  of  flour  with  coarse 


94  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

bran.  In  buying  graham,  select  that  containing  a  rather 
fine  bran,  which  does  not  separate  readily  from  the  flour 
when  shaken  in  the  hand.  The  Health  Food  Company 
makes  an  excellent  graham  j  and  when  there  is  any  doubt 
as  to  the  quality  of  the  ordinary  graham,  it  would  be 
wise  to  purchase  that  sold  by  this  company.  The  price 
is  much  higher  than  that  of  the  ordinary  article. 

There  are  many  mills  which  supply  the  pure  article, 
but  there  are  so  many  which  do  not  that  one  is  often  at 
a  loss  to  know  where  to  get  the  best.  The  mills  at 
Akron,  Ohio,  make  an  excellent  graham,  and  also  a  good 
quality  of  oatmeal. 

Fine  granulated  meal  is  a  fine  quality  of  graham, 
manufactured  by  the  Health  Food  Company.  It  makes 
delicious  bread  and  muffins. 

Corn  Meal. 

Corn  meal,  past  and  present,  is  an  interesting  subject. 
The  changing  quality  of  this  meal  is  a  source  of  much 
annoyance  to  the  housekeeper  of  to-day.  Rules  which 
always  worked  to  perfection  in  the  past  are  now  as  un- 
certain as  the  weather.  The  old  process  of  making  corn 
meal  was  to  take  corn  which  had  dried  naturally  for  a 
few  months,  and  crush  it  between  mill-stones.  This  gave 
a  sweet-flavored  but  uneven  meal,  some  parts  being  as 
fine  as  flour,  while  others  were  rather  coarse ;  besides, 
there  was  a  considerable  amount  of  coarse  bran.  As  the 
corn  was  not  entirely  free  of  moisture,  and  was  heated 
in  being  crushed  between  the  mill-stones,  it  could  not 
be  relied  upon  to  keep  good ;  a  few  weeks  was  as  long 
a  time  as  it  was  expected  to  remain  sweet.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  this  delicious  meal  has  passed  away. 

About  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago  the  granulated  meal 
began  to  appear  in  the  market.  It  was  sweet,  dry,  and 
of  even  texture,  being  cut  instead  of  being  ground  be- 
tween stones.  The  corn  was  thoroughly  dried  before 
being  sent  to  the  mill ;  at  first  it  was  kept  for  two  or 


ABOUT  FOOD.  95 


three  years,  until  all  the  moisture  had  evaporated.  This 
new  kind  of  meal  was  very  satisfactory,  because  it  was 
of  uniform  quality  and  would  keep  for  any  length  of 
time.  If  the  manufacturers  had  been  content  to  follow 
this  process  up  to  the  present  time,  housekeepers  would 
have  been  well  pleased ;  but  the  drying  of  the  corn  was 
not  rapid  enough  for  the  millers,  who  soon  began  to  use 
kilns.  At  the  outset  of  the  new  departure  the  corn  was 
dried  slowly  and  at  a  low  temperature,  and  the  meal 
was  nearly  as  good  as  that  made  by  the  original  method. 
But  the  time  for  drying  has  been  reduced  more  and 
more,  until  now  the  grains  of  the  corn  meal  are  as  hard 
as  the  grains  of  hominy,  and  it  is  rather  hard  to  distin- 
guish between  the  two.  Then,  too,  the  meal  is  ground 
much  finer  than  formerly.  All  these  changes  in  the 
meal  have  damaged  it  considerably,  and  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  get  the  moist,  sweet  corn-bread  of  years 
gone  by.  If  in  using  old  receipts  for  corn  bread,  one- 
eighth  of  the  quantity  of  meal  called  for  be  omitted,  the 
bread  will  be  nearer  what  it  should  be  than  it  will  if  all 
the  meal  be  used. 

Hominy,  Grits,  etc. 

Within  a  few  years  a  great  many  new  preparations 
have  been  manufactured  from  the  cereals.  Nearly  all 
these  goods  have  been  prepared  with  a  view  to  their  use 
in  breakfast  dishes.  Some  of  them  have  been  a  success, 
and  others  a  bad  failure.  Since  it  has  become  the  custom 
to  have  mush  of  some  kind  for  breakfast,  and  so  many 
people  cannot  eat  oatmeal,  other  materials  are  substituted 
for  the  old-fashioned  cracked  wheat  and  oatmeal. 

Wheat  germ  meal  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  of  the 
new  preparations.  It  comes  in  small  packages,  and  is 
quickly  and  easily  cooked. 

Hominy  snow  flakes  is  another  new  preparation  which 
makes  a  pleasant  change  on  the  breakfast-table  or  for 
the  nursery. 


96  MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Grits  is  the  name  given  to  fine  hominy  in  some  sec- 
tions of  the  South,  "  hominy  "  there  meaning  the  coarse 
hominy.  Both  the  coarse  and  fine  hominy  are  desirable 
food  materials,  and  should  be  found  in  every  household. 
The  fine  hominy  can  be  used  for  many  more  purposes  than 
the  coarse,  and  is  therefore  more  desirable.  The  former 
comes  in  five-pound  packages  ;  the  coarser  kinds  can  be 
bought  in  bulk. 

MOLASSES. 

When  sugar  was  made  in  the  old-fashioned  way  it 
was  always  possible  to  obtain  good  black  molasses. 
Now  that  sugar  is  finally  boiled  in  vacuum  pans,  the 
best  quality  of  molasses  is  very  scarce.  The  finest  conies 
from  Porto  Kico,  and  the  next  best  from  New  Orleans. 

A  good  test  of  molasses  is  to  put  a  bit  of  dissolved 
soda  in  a  spoonful  of  the  molasses,  and  if  the  latter  be 
good  it  will  foam  up  in  a  rich  dark  color,  and  the  odor 
will  be  pleasant.  If,  however,  it  should  turn  a  greenish 
shade,  and  the  odor  should  be  unpleasant,  it  will  not 
give  satisfaction. 

OLIVE   OIL. 

Unless  one  have  a  good  cool  cellar,  it  will  be  best  to 
buy  oil  in  small  quantities.  Buying  in  large  quantities 
is  much  more  economical  if  there  be  a  good  place  to 
keep  the  supply.  Oil  is  cheaper  when  bought  in  large 
bottles  than  in  small  ones ;  yet  in  a  small  family  it  is 
better  to  buy  the  small  bottles,  as  oil  loses  its  fine  flavor 
if  the  bottle  be  opened  often. 

Bae's  Lucca  oil  is  very  reliable ;  so  is  Barton  &  Gues- 
tier's.  There  are  many  other  good  oils,  and  these  brands 
are  mentioned  only  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  find  it 
difficult  to  judge  of  the  quality. 

One  cannot  be  too  careful  in  the  selection  and  care 
of  salad  oil.  It  should  always  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dark 
place.  When  the  bottle  is  opened,  wipe  the  inside  of 
the  neck  of  the  bottle  before  pouring  out  the  oil.  Some- 


ABOUT  FOOD.  97 


times  a  particle  of  oil  will  cling  to  the  cork  and  become 
rancid.  Unless  this  be  wiped  out,  the  whole  bottle  may 
be  tainted  by  it.  Always  taste  or  smell  of  the  oil  before 
using  it. 

MACARONI,  SPAGHETTI,  ETC. 

Macaroni,  spaghetti,  and  all  the  other  Italian  pastes 
are  made  of  a  hard  wheat  that  is  rich  in  gluten.  These 
pastes,  when  of  the  best  quality,  have  a  hard  appearance, 
with  a  slight  yellowish  tinge. 

The  Italian  paste  made  in  this  country  —  and  there  is 
a  great  deal  of  it  —  has  a  softer,  lighter  look.  Some- 
times it  is  colored  with  saffron,  in  which  case  it  will 
have  a  deeper  yellow  tinge. 

Spaghetti  is  one  form  of  macaroni,  the  only  difference 
being  that  the  stems  are  only  about  one  fourth  as  large 
round  as  macaroni.  It  is  prepared  the  same  as  macaroni. 

Italian  paste  comes  in  the  form  of  tiny  figures  and  let- 
ters. This  is  used  largely  for  soup. 

TAPIOCA. 

This  is  sold  in  three  different  forms.  Flake  tapioca  is 
that  which  comes  in  large,  coarse  flakes.  Pearl  tapioca 
comes  in  small  globules  about  half  the  size  of  a  pea.  It 
cooks  soft  more  readily  than  the  flaked  kind,  but  never 
seems  quite  so  rich.  "  Tapioca  exotique  "  is  a  prepara- 
tion of  tapioca  that  has  been  ground  as  fine  as  granulated 
sugar.  It  cooks  clear  in  a  short  time,  and  is  convenient 
and  nice  for  soups  and  jellies.  It  comes  in  small  pack- 
ages, the  smallest  weighing  half  a  pound.  The  house- 
keeper who  once  tries  this  preparation  for  soups  and 
desserts  will  always  have  it  in  her  storeroom. 

ARROWROOT. 

This  has  so  long  been  considered  as  belonging  to  the 
food  supplies  for  invalids  and  the  sick  that  it  is  not  used 
to  any  great  extent  in  ordinary  cookery.  It  has,  however, 

7 


98  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

properties  which  will  commend  it  to  the  cook  for  many 
dishes.  It  will,  for  example,  become  perfectly  transpar- 
ent when  cooked  in  a  clear  liquid,  and  for  this  reason  it 
is  a  valuable  thickening  agent  in  soups  and  sauces  that 
are  required  to  be  thick  and  yet  clear. 

Arrowroot  absorbs  odors  readily,  and  therefore  should 
be  put  up  and  kept  in  tin  boxes.  Never  buy  it  in  any 
other  form,  and  never  buy  it  at  the  druggist's,  because  it 
will  have  absorbed  the  odors  of  some  of  the  things  near 
it.  All  first-class  grocers  keep  it. 

GELATINE. 

Gelatine  is  now  used  so  freely  in  all  households  that 
it  pays  to  buy  it  by  the  quantity.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
valuable  ingredients  that  we  have  for  making  desserts 
and  jellies.  There  are  a  good  many  brands.  The  pack- 
ages are  all  supposed  to  hold  the  same  amount,  —  two 
ounces  and  a  half  with  the  wrappers,  and  two  ounces  if 
weighed  without  them.  Sometimes  the  gelatine  weighs 
a  little  more,  and  frequently  less,  than  two  ounces ;  so  it 
is  best  to  weigh  it  before  it  is  used.  This  shortness  in 
weight  probably  is  due  to  the  carelessness  of  the  packers 
and  not  to  a  desire  to  defraud,  as  gelatine  is  cheap. 

Pink  gelatine  comes  in  sheets.  It  can  be  bought  at 
the  grocer's  by  the  ounce.  It  costs  a  little  more  than 
the  ordinary  gelatine. 

Using  half  plain  and  half  pink  gelatine  will  give  a 
rich  pink  color  to  a  jelly  or  cream. 

Many  people  prefer  using  the  Eussian  isinglass,  which 
comes  in  sheets.  This  costs  more  than  the  prepared  gel- 
atine. It  is  nice  for  blanc-mange,  and  besides  being  used 
for  jellies  and  creams,  it  is  frequently  used  for  clearing 
soups  and  coffee. 

CONDIMENTS. 

In  this  age  of  adulterations  nothing  suffers  more  than 
ground  condiments.  The  only  safety  is  to  buy  them  at 


ABOUT  FOOD.  99 


first-class  stores.  This  does  not  always  mean  that  you 
will  get  a  pure  article,  but  your  chances  are  much  greater 
than  when  trusting  to  the  common  grocer.  After  salt, 
pepper  is  the  most  extensively  used  condiment;  black, 
white,  and  red  pepper  being  in  common  use. 

White  pepper  is  better  than  black  for  cooking  pur- 
poses, because  it  is  so  much  more  delicate  in  flavor  and 
does  not  mar  the  looks  of  a  white  sauce,  soup,  or  ragout. 
It  is  not  so  liable  to  be  adulterated  as  the  black.  It, 
however,  costs  more.  Always  keep  pepper  in  a  glass  jar 
or  tin  box. 

Cayenne  is  used  in  such  a  small  quantity  that  a  two- 
ounce  bottle  will  last  an  ordinary  family  for  a  year  or 
more. 

Nepaul  pepper,  a  delicate  red  kind,  comes  in  small 
bottles,  and  is  a  great  addition  to  the  seasoning  of  some 
soups,  sauces,  and  entrees. 

Mustard,  when  pure,  has  a  dull  yellow  appearance. 
When  ground  mustard  is  mixed  with  cold  water,  the  odor 
will  be  so  pungent  as  to  affect  the  eyes,  as  peeling  raw 
onions  will.  Unless  you  are  a  chemist,  this  is  the  surest 
test  you  can  make  to  ascertain  whether  <the  mustard  is 
adulterated.  The  bright  yellow  color  does  not  always 
mean  that  the  mustard  is  inferior  to  the  paler  kind. 
The  pure  mustard  is  frequently  colored  to  give  it  the 
bright  yellow  hue  which  so  many  people  demand.  Since 
this  article  is  used  extensively  in  sickness,  a  generous 
supply  should  always  be  kept  in  the  storeroom,  and  care 
should  be  taken  to  have  only  the  purest. 

Curry-powder  is  being  employed  more  and  more  each 
year.  It  is  a  useful  and  healthful  condiment  when 
properly  used.  Some  housekeepers  try  to  make  this 
powder  themselves,  but  it  is  much  better  to  buy  it.  The 
ingredients  vary  a  little  in  the  different  makes.  They 
usually  consist  of  the  following-named  articles  ground 
to  a  smooth  powder :  Coriander  seed,  black  and  Cayenne 
pepper,  cumin  seed,  cardamon  seed,  turmeric.  Some- 


100          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


times  cinnamon,  ginger,  caraway  seed,  and  other  spices 
also  are  used.  The  most  reliable  makes  are  Cross  & 
BlackwelPs.  Curry-powder  should  be  kept  in  a  dark 
place,  in  a  tightly  corked  bottle. 

CINNAMON. 

In  buying  ground  cinnamon,  like  all  ground  spices, 
one  must  depend  upon  taste  for  the  real  article,  for 
this  spiee  is  as  much  adulterated  as  pepper  and  ginger. 
But  with  the  whole  cinnamon  the  case  is  different,  for 
here  the  eye  can  recognize  the  true  and  detect  the  false. 

The  genuine  cinnamon  comes  in  small,  thin,  rather 
tight  rolls.  It  can  be  broken  in  long  splinters.  The 
taste  is  delicate,  sweet,  and  spicy.  The  price  is  much 
higher  than  for  cassia. 

Cinnamon  is  sometimes  mixed  with  cassia  and  sold 
for  a  pure  article,  and  it  is  quite  common  to  sell  pure 
cassia  for  cinnamon. 

Cassia  is  more  than  twice  as  thick  as  cinnamon ;  the 
rolls  are  large  and  loose ;  the  bark  breaks  off  brittle  and 
will  not  break  in  splinters ;  the  flavor  is  strong.  It 
makes  a  good  deal  of  difference  in  the  flavor  of  a  soup, 
sauce,  or  jelly,  whether  cinnamon  or  coarse  cassia  be 
used. 

SUMMER   SALADS  AND   SWEET   HERBS. 

How  to  Get  Them  from  One's  Own  Garden. 

When  the  time  comes  for  garden-making,  people  will 
do  wisely  to  set  apart  a  small  portion  of  their  land  for 
salads  and  herbs.  Many  persons  who  live  in  towns  have 
not  only  land  for  flower-beds,  but  enough  also  for  a  salad 
and  herb  garden,  and  yet  they  feel  that  it  is  not  worth 
the  while  to  try  to  raise  anything  for  the  table,  because 
they  have  not  an  acre  or  more  to  cultivate.  A  small 
piece  of  land,  properly  used,  will  yield  wonders  in  the 
way  of  flavors  and  relishes.  In  France  mere  yards. 


ABOUT  FOOD.  101 


as  we  would  call  them,  produce  vegetables  for  seasoning 
purposes,  salads,  herbs,  grapes,  apples,  peaches,  and  pears. 
There  are  no  trees  in  such  little  gardens,  the  fruit  being 
trained  on  frames  and  the  walls.  The  meats  of  France 
are  not  remarkably  fine ;  yet  the  poorest  parts  of  a  poor 
animal  are  prepared  in  a  manner  which  renders  them 
not  only  digestible,  but  very  savory.  Slow  processes  of 
cooking  make  the  meat  tender,  and  much  of  the  flavor 
is  obtained  by  the  use  of  the  sweet  herbs  and  delicate 
vegetables. 

But  to  return  to  the  proposed  garden.  About  one 
hundred  square  feet  of  land  will  suffice,  —  twenty-five 
for  vegetables,  forty  for  herbs,  and  the  rest  for  salads. 
It  is  calculated  to  raise  only  enough  vegetables  for  sea- 
soning purposes.  Here  is  a  list  of  things  which  it  will 
be  well  to  plant :  Salads,  —  lettuce,  sorrel,  burnet,  borage, 
chives;  vegetables,  —  carrots,  turnips,  celery  (only  for 
the  leaves),  onions ;  herbs,  —  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon, 
sage,  sweet-marjoram,  summer  savory,  thyme. 

As  the  salads  and  vegetables  should  be  planted  twice 
during  the  season,  only  half  of  the  land  set  apart  for 
them  should  be  sown  at  first.  The  first  sowing  should 
take  place  in  May  or  June,  the  time  depending  upon  the 
season  and  climate  ;  the  second  in  August.  Seeds  and 
bulbs  may  be  got  from  any  good  seedsman,  and  their 
transportation  by  mail  is  not  costly.  The  care  of  a  little 
garden  is  likely  to  be  a  source  of  health  and  pleasure  to 
a  woman,  and  a  surprising  variety  of  fine  flavors  may  be 
obtained  for  soups,  ragouts,  and  other  dishes. 

It  is  strange  that  people  generally  are  ignorant  of  the 
use  and  value  of  some  of  the  best  and  most  delicate  herbs 
and  salads.  Sage,  savory,  thyme,  and  marjoram  are 
common  enough.  Tarragon  and  chervil  are  employed 
in  the  making  of  sauces,  soups,  salads,  and  ragouts. 
Chervil  is  somewhat  like  parsley,  but  more  delicate  in 
texture  and  more  agreeable  in  flavor.  It  is  used  only  «s 
a  flavor  and  in  small  quantities.  Tarragon  is  a 


102          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

plant,  like  thyme,  but  its  leaves  are  about  four  times  as 
large.  It  has  a  flavor  unlike  anything  else,  and  gives 
to  lettuce  salads  that  peculiar  and  pleasing  savor  which 
one  gets  in  France.  In  New  York  the  French  cooks  use 
large  amounts  of  it ;  outside  that  city,  however,  it  is  but 
little  known  except  by  French  people.  If  the  roots  be 
protected,  the  plant  will  last  for  years.  Chives  are  a 
species  of  onion.  Only  the  delicate  green  tops  are  used. 
They  should  be  cut  frequently,  but  not  very  close  to  the 
ground.  Chives  are  delicious  in  all  kinds  of  vegetable 
salads,  particularly  in  potato  salad ;  and  they  are  also 
nice  in  soups,  stews,  and  fish  or  savory  omelets.  Cooking 
does  not  mar  the  beautiful  green  as  it  does  some  kinds 
of  vegetables.  For  winter  use  gather  chervil,  tarragon, 
marjoram,  savory,  sage,  thyme,  and  parsley,  before  they 
go  to  seed ;  tie  them  in  bunches,  and  hang  in  a  shady 
place  to  dry ;  and  keep  them,  when  dry,  in  boxes  or 
paper  bags. 

In  summer,  when  garden  products  are  fresh,  sorrel, 
borage,  and  burnet  should  be  prepared  for  the  table  just 
the  same  as  lettuce.  Two,  three,  or  more  of  the  salads 
may  be  combined,  and  seasoned  with  French  dressing. 
For  example,  to  each  head  of  lettuce  put  a  few  leaves  of 
sorrel,  two  sprigs  of  chervil,  a  few  sprigs  of  tarragon, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives  mixed  with  one 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  three  of  oil,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Or 
borage  may  be  substituted  for  the  head  of  lettuce  ;  or 
any  one  of  the  three,  sorrel,  borage,  or  lettuce,  may  be 
used  with  a  single  herb  and  the  dressing. 

There  are  numerous  salads  besides  these,  but  enough 
have  been  mentioned  to  enable  a  housekeeper  of  ordinary 
ability  to  give  a  pleasing  variety  to  her  bills  of  fare. 
All  the  vegetables,  herbs,  and  salads  named  can  be  found 
in  large  markets  during  May  and  June,  and  they  will  be 
delicate,  having  come  chiefly  from  hot-beds.  A  city 
housekeeper  who  knows  what  she  wants,  and  has  the 


ABOUT  FOOD.  103 


money  to  get  supplies,  will  meet  with  no  difficulty  in 
an  attempt  to  make  frequent  changes  of  dishes;  but 
she  who  lives  out  of  the  city,  and  cannot  readily  obtain 
the  variety  desired,  should  have  a  little  garden  of  her 
own. 

The  seeds,  roots,  or  bulbs  for  this  garden  can  be  bought 
of  any  reliable  seedsman.  Alfred  Bridgeman,  No.  37 
East  Nineteenth  Street,  New  York  City,  keeps  all  these 
seeds. 

Tarragon  is  a  perennial,  and  is  rarely  raised  from  the 
seed.  Get  two  or  three  roots.  Pli\nt  them  in  April  or 
May,  in  a  rather  dry,  sheltered  place.  In  the  fall,  cover 
them  with  straw  to  protect  the  roots. 

Chives  are  grown  from  small  bulbs.  Plant  the  bulbs 
a  few  inches  apart.  Let  this  bed  be  long  and  narrow. 
Begin  cutting  at  one  end  of  the  bed,  and  continue  to  the 
other. end.  By  the  time  it  is  reached  the  plants  that 
were  cut  first  will  be  ready  to  yield  another  crop.  Take 
up  some  of  the  bulbs,  in  the  fall,  for  winter  use.  Plant 
them  in  small  boxes  at  various  times  through  the  winter, 
and  you  will  have  the  green  relish  during  the  cold  sea- 
son. Cover  the  out-door  bed  with  straw,  and  the  chives 
will  come  up  early  in  the  spring.  A  bed  of  chives  prop- 
erly worked  and  fertilized  will  last  for  several  years. 

Borage  is  grown  from  seed,  and  must  be  planted  twice 
during  the  season,  in  April  or  May,  and  again  in  July  or 
August. 

Burnet  is  raised  from  seed.  It  has  a  flavor  a  little 
like  cucumbers. 

Sorrel  is  grown  from  seed.  It  is  perennial,  and  a  bed 
will  last  for  years  if  properly  cared  for.  When  the 
flower  buds  appear  they  should  be  cut  off,  that  the  leaves 
of  the  sorrel  shall  grow  large  and  tender. 

In  the  fall  take  up  a  dozen  roots  of  parsley  and  plant 
them  in  a  box,  keeping  it  in  a  sunny  window.  It  will 
pay. 


104          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


SOUPS. 

To  be  a  maker  of  good  soups  one  must  not  only  have 
skill  and  patience,  but  also  must  use  good  materials. 
There  seems  to  be  a  rather  general  impression  that  soups 
should  be  made  from  almost  nothing.  This  is  a  great 
error.  To  be  sure,  one  often  is  served  with  a  plate  of 
liquid  called  soup,  which,  so  far  as  nutrition  and  flavor 
are  concerned,  might  as  well  have  been  made  of  nothing 
but  water,  a  little  coloring,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 
But  such  soups  ought  never  to  be  put  upon  the  table. 

Soup  should  be  palatable  and  nutritious.  If  these 
qualities  be  lacking,  there  will  be  no  excuse  for  serving 
it.  Knowledge  and  care  must  be  applied  in  combining 
the  various  ingredients  in  order  to  secure  results  at  once 
pleasing  and  healthful;  ignorance  and  carelessness  are 
drawbacks  under  which  a  maker  of  soups  cannot  work 
with  a  reasonable  hope  of  success. 

In  preparing  soup  stock  the  first  step  is  to  obtain  from 
the  meat  all  the  nutritive  and  flavoring  qualities,  which 
are  the  albumen,  gelatine,  osmazone,  and  salts,  and  are 
contained  principally  in  the  lean  parts  of  the  meat, 
though  the  bones  also  contain  considerable  gelatine. 
Osmazone  and  albumen  are  dissolved  and  drawn  from 
meat  in  water  heated  to  a  temperature  of  100°  to  110° ; 
gelatine  must  be  subjected  for  several  hours  to  a  heat  of 
200°,  or  more,  before  it  will  dissolve  in  the  meat  and 
bones. 

Simplest  Way  of  Making  Stock. 

.Now,  as  the  object  is  to  dissolve  and  draw  out  these 
substances,  it  is  best  to  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces 
before  adding  the  water.  The  meat  and  water  should 


sours.  105 


stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  range,  where  the  heat  is 
not  great,  for  at  least  an  hour ;  and  at  the  end  of  that 
time  the  kettle  should  be  moved  forward  where  the  con- 
tents will  slowly  get  heated  to  the  boiling-point.  When 
this  temperature  is  reached  a  thick  scum  will  rise  on  the 
surface  of  the  liquid,  which  should  be  carefully  skimmed. 
During  the  next  half-hour  skim  every  ten  minutes ; 
then  cover  the  kettle  closely,  and  set  it  back  where  its 
contents  will  just  bubble  for  from  six  to  ten  hours. 
When  this  time  has  passed,  strain  the  soup.  All  the 
soluble  matter  will  be  dissolved,  and  the  remaining  bones 
and  shreds  of  fibres  will  have  no  value  as  food.  All  the 
flavoring  and  nutritive  elements  will  be  contained  in  the 
strained  liquid. 

This  is  the  simplest  way  of  making  soup  stock.  By 
following  it,  anybody  can  prepare  the  foundation  for  a 
plain  or  rich  soup.  A  light  stock  is  made  by  allowing 
a  quart  of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat.  Perhaps  it  will  be 
well  to  state  here  that  there  should  be  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bone  to  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  meat.  A  rich  stock  is  obtained  by  using  only  a  pint 
of  water  to  each  pound  of  meat  and  bone. 

Materials  for  Stock. 

Stock  may  be  made  of  one  kind  of  meat,  or  many 
kinds;  of  fresh  meat,  or  the  remains  and  trimmings  of 
roasted  and  broiled  meats.  The  greater  the  number  of 
kinds  used,  the  finer  will  be  the  flavor.  When  bones 
are  used,  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  contents  of 
the  soup-kettle  from  boiling  hard ;  for  a  very  high  tem- 
perature would  dissolve  the  lime  in  the  bones,  and  give 
the  stock  a  milky  appearance.  It  is  difficult  to  make  a 
clear  soup  of  stock  that  was  clouded  by  hard  boiling; 
but  if  a  white  soup  is  to  be  made,  the  clouding  of  the 
stock  will  not  be  a  serious  matter. 

To  insure  getting  clear  soup,  free  of  every  particle  of 
fat,  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  stock  the  day  previous, 


106          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

that  the  fat  may  form  in  a  cake  on  the  surface  of  the 
stock  and  easily  be  taken  off.  Then,  too,  if  the  stock  be 
liquid  it  may  be  poured  off,  leaving  the  sediment  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl ;  or  if  it  be  in  the  form  of  jelly  it 
may  be  turned  out,  and  the  sediment  can  be  scraped 
from  the  bottom.  In  either  case  a  comparatively  clear 
stock  will  be  obtained.  Seasoning  may  be  added,  the 
stew-pan  set  on  the  stove,  and  its  contents  heated  to  the 
boiling-point  and  kept  at  that  temperature  for  half  an 
hour;  then  the  soup  will  be  ready  for  straining  and 
serving.  For  a  change,  there  may  be  added,  after  the 
straining,  Italian  paste  in  any  form,  cooked  vegetables, 
cooked  rice  or  barley,  or,  indeed,  almost  any  embellish- 
ment that  one  may  fancy.  For  inexperienced  cooks  this 
is  the  safest  kind  of  clear  soup  to  make. 

How  Soups  are  Cleared. 

By  some  accident  or  oversight  the  stock  may  not  be 
properly  skimmed,  or  may  be  allowed  to  boil  too  hard,  so 
that  it  becomes  cloudy  j  or  possibly  the  cloudiness  will 
be  brought  on  by  the  use  of  cooked  meats. .  In  any  of 
these  cases  there  will  be  necessity  for  clearing  the  soup, 
—  an  operation  which  but  comparatively  few  persons  un- 
derstand. Soups  are  cleared  by  various  articles,  the  most 
common  being  the  white  of  an  egg.  Professional  cooks 
use  fine-chopped  raw  meat  for  clearing  bouillon  and  con- 
somme". The  white  of  an  egg  is  so  cheap  and  convenient 
to  use  that  its  value  should  be  better  known.  When  it 
is  used  it  makes  no  difference  whether  or  not  any  sedi- 
ment gets  into  the  soup-pot. 

To  season  and  clear  four  quarts  of  soup,  use  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  four  blades  of  celery,  one  large  onion,  one 
large  slice  of  carrot,  two  bay  leaves,  one  leaf  of  sage, 
two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  small  sprigs  each  of  thyme, 
summer  savory,  and  .sweet-marjoram,  —  all  the  herbs 
being  tied  together,  —  six  whole  cloves,  three  dozen 
pepper-corns,  a  two-inch  piece  of  cinnamon,  half  a  tea- 


SOUPS.  107 


spoonful  of  sugar,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  Beat 
the  egg  whites  until  they  are  light  but  not  dry,  and  put 
them  into  the  stock  with  the  other  ingredients.  Place 
over  the  fire  and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  This 
is  the  critical  stage  of  the  work.  Just  as  soon  as  the 
soup  bubbles,  move  the  kettle  back  where  its  contents 
will  keep  at  the  boiling-point  for  half  an  hour  without 
really  boiling.  The  kettle  should  be  closely  covered  all 
the  time.  At  the  end  of  the  half-hour  strain  the  soup 
through  a  napkin  into  a  clean  kettle.  It  will  be  clear 
and  sparkling  if  the  directions  have  been  followed  to 
the  letter.  The  stock  must  be  cooked  for  at  least  half 
an  hour  after  the  egg  whites  are  added.  It  must,  how- 
ever, be  heated  only  to  the  boiling-point  and  not  allowed 
to  boil  rapidly ;  otherwise  the  egg  will  be  broken  up  by 
the  rapid  motion  of  the  liquid,  and  will  not  harden  in  a 
sheet,  and  the  stock  will  not  be  rid  of,  the  foreign 
substances  which  the  egg  is  expected  to  collect.  . 

Value  of  Remnants  of  Meat. 

The  belief,  unfortunately,  appears  to  be  quite  common 
that  if  one  would  have  stock  on  hand  for  made  dishes 
and  the  various  kinds  of  soup  made  partly  of  stock 
and  partly  of  milk,  there  must  always  be  kept  on  the 
stove  a  stock-pot,  into  which  all  the  bones  and  odds 
and  ends  of  meat  are  to  be  put  from  day  to  day,  and 
from  wliich  the  stock  may  be  taken  at  any  time  it  is 
needed. 

All  meat  trimmings  that  are  sweet,  and  all  the  bones 
from  roasts  and  broils,  should  be  boiled  slowly  in  water, 
to  extract  any  nutritive  elements  remaining  in  them. 
The  stock  thus  produced  varies  in  strength  and  is  rarely 
clear;  nevertheless,  it  is  of  much  value  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  soups,  sauces,  and  made  dishes.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  the  bones  and  meat  are  perfectly  sweet,  or  a 
bad  flavor  will  be  developed  in  the  process  of  cooking, 
and  the  stock  obtained  will  give  this  flavor  to  any  dish 


108          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

in  which  it  is  used.  It  is  advisable  to  boil  the  bones 
and  trimmings  as  soon  as  possible,  and  not  to  wait  until 
a  large  quantity  has  accumulated  for  the  stock-pot.  If 
you  have  any  bones  or  meat  left  aftej  a  sirloin  or  porter- 
house steak  has  formed  a  part  of  a  meal,  do  not  wait  a 
day  or  two  in  order  to  boil  the  remains  of  a  roast  of  beef 
or  poultry  at  the  same  time.  Put  the  first  remnants  on 
the  stove  in  a  small  stew-pan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  for  five  or  six  hours ;  then 
strain  and  cool  before  adding  to  the  other  stock.  The 
small  amount  of  stock  obtained  —  perhaps  not  more  than 
three  gills  —  may  seem  to  be  a  poor  return  for  the  trouble 
taken.  How  much  trouble  ?  Simply  putting  the  materi- 
als into  the  stew-pan,  straining  and  cooling  the  liquid 
after  the  boiling,  and  finally  washing  the  strainer  and 
stew-pan.  What  do  you  get  for  the  work  ?  Three  gills 
of  stock,  which  will  make  a  sauce  for  any  kind  of  cold 
meat ;  will  moisten  a  dish  of  hash,  when  water  otherwise 
would  be  used ;  or  will  serve  as  a  foundation  in  which 
rice,  barley,  tapioca,  or  something  else  may  be  cooked  for 
a  cream  soup,  making  the  dishes  at  least  fifty  per  cent 
better  than  if  water  be  used. 

Stock  of  this  kind  is,  therefore,  one  of  the  most  useful 
things  prepared  in  the  kitchen.  Never  forget  that  the 
materials  must  be  sweet,  and  that  warm  stock  must  not 
be  added  to  that  which  is  cold.  When  there  is  any  cold 
stock  on  hand,  it  is  well  to  put  it  with  the  new  stock 
about  an  hour  before  the  latter  is  taken  from  the  fire. 
This  will  give  it  a  thorough  scalding,  and  insure  the 
stock  keeping  good  for  three  or  four  days  in  winter,  and 
a  day  or  two  in  summer. 

In  making  stock,  allow  a  quart  of  water  to  every 
pound  of  meat  and  bones,  and  let  it  boil  down  one-half. 
In  a  well-managed  kitchen  there  always  will  be  at  least 
a  small  quantity  of  this  stock.  Then,  too,  the  water  in 
which  poultry  or  mutton  was  boiled  may  have  the  meat 
and  bones  added  to  it,  and  four  or  five  hours'  simmering 


SOUPS.  109 

will  give  a  rich  stock  from  which  a  variety  of  soups  may 
be  made. 

Maigre  soups  are  those  made  without  meat,  and  are 
especially  appropriate  for  fast  days.  Some  of  them  are 
good  enough  for  any  season,  and  make  a  pleasant  change 
from  meat  soups. 

Beef  the  Best  Meat  for  Stock. 

Of  the  various  kinds  of  meat  used  in  soup-making, 
beef  is  the  most  valuable  and,  generally  speaking,  the 
cheapest.  All  the  tough  and  coarse  parts  can  be  used. 
Those  parts  containing  a  good  deal  of  gelatine  are  es- 
pecially desirable  if  the  stock  is  to  be  kept  for  several 
days,  because  the  stock,  upon  cooling,  becomes  a  rather 
solid  mass,  through  which  the  air  will  not  pass  freely, 
and  therefore  fermentation  is  not  likely  to  ensue.  The 
soup,  too,  will  have  the  deceptive  appearance  of  being 
much  richer  than  that  made  with  clear,  lean  meat.  But 
many  people  enjoy  a  gelatinous  soup  when  one  rich,  but 
clear,  would  seem  to  them  to  be  light.  Every  part  of 
the  beef  contains  some  gelatine,  and  if  the  meat  be 
cooked  for  several  hours  in  water  which  is  kept  at  200°, 
or  even  a  little  higher  temperature,  the  gelatine  will  be 
dissolved,  and  if  there  be  a  pound  of  meat  to  each  pint 
of  water  the  stock  will  jelly  on  cooling.  But  should  the 
clear  meat  and  water  be  kept  at  about  170°  during  the 
cooking,  the  stock  will  remain  liquid  when  cold,  and 
very  little  trace  of  gelatine  will  be  found  in  it.  This 
point  always  should  be  remembered  when  making  bouil- 
lon to  be  served  cold,  as  the  soup  should  be  rich,  and  icy 
cold,  and  yet  perfectly  clear  like  water. 

The  parts  of  beef  used  for  soup  are  —  for  bouillon  or 
consomme,  the  round,  shoulder,  flank,  or  brisket;  for  a 
clear  beef  soup,  the  neck,  cheek,  leg,  shin,  and  any 
scraggy,  rough  part,  besides  the  bones.  The  cheek,  leg, 
and  shin  all  will  give  a  soup  rich  in  gelatine. 

A  shin  or  leg  of  beef  will  be  found  to  be  an  economical 


110          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

piece  for  making  stock.  Butchers  seldom  break  these 
parts  into  small  enough  pieces.  The  bones  of  a  leg 
should  be  broken  into  eight  or  ten  pieces,  and  these 
should  be  washed  in  cold  water.  Be  very  careful  that 
the  part  which  was  separated  from  the  hoof  is  perfectly 
sweet  and  clean.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  cut  off 
and  throw  away  bits  of  tendon  which  appear  to  be  u 
trifle  tainted. 

When  the  cheek  and  neck  are  used,  they  should  be 
washed.  The  round  should  not  be  washed,  but  should 
be  wiped  well  with  a  wet  towel. 

A  Word  about  Poultry. 

Poultry  is  of  great  value  in  making  stock.  One  of  the 
most  economical  ways  of  getting  a  light  white  stock  is  to 
clean  and  truss  a  fowl,  put  it,  breast  down,  in  as  small  a 
stew-pan  as  will  hold  it,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and 
heat  it  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  Skim  carefully,  and 
simmer  until  the  fowl  is  tender ;  then  take  up  the  fowl 
and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Strain  the  water  in  which  it 
was  boiled,  and  set  that  away  to  cool.  When  it  becomes 
cool,  the  fat  may  be  skimmed  from  it.  The  fowl  will  be 
ready  for  any  kind  of  a  dish  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or 
tea,  or  may  be  made  into  an  entree  for  dinner.  The  stock 
will  serve  as  the  foundation  of  cream  soups  or  white 
sauces,  or  may  be  used  with  made  dishes. 

Do  not  use  a  fowl  for  stock  unless  it  be  plump  and 
sweet  and  not  more  than  two  years  old.  The  dark,  lean 
birds,  which  can  be  bought  for  a  few  cents  a  pound  less 
than  a  fat,  rich  chicken,  will  prove  a  dear  purchase  if  one 
be  tempted  to  take  them.  Many  persons  are  so  foolish 
as  to  think  that  because  the  meat  is  to  be  used  for  soup, 
it  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  good  quality.  Just  as  good 
meat  is  wanted  for  this  purpose  as  for  anything  else. 

Sometimes  the  feet  of  poultry  are  used  in  soups.  There 
are  two  ways  to  clean  them :  one  is  to  hold  them  in  tongs 
over  clear  coals  until  the  skin  cracks  and  curls,  when  it 


SOUPS.  Ill 


can  be  rubbed  off  easily ;  and  the  other  mode  is  to  cover 
them  with  boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes  and  then 
scrape  off  the  skin  and  nails.  Being  gelatinous,  they 
give  body  to  the  soup. 

Other  Meats  for  Stock. 

Mutton  does  not  enter  largely  into  soup-making.  When 
it  is  used  it  should  be  freed  as  much  as  possible  of  fat, 
which  would  give  a  strong  flavor  to  the  stock.  The 
neck,  shoulder,  and  feet  are  the  parts  most  in  demand  for 
soups.  The  feet,  like  those  of  the  calf,  are  very  gelati- 
nous, and  are  sometimes  used  with  other  meats,  like  beef, 
to  increase  the  gelatinous  element  of  the  stock. 

Almost  all  kinds  of  game  may  be  used  for  stock.  In 
most  cases  it  is  too  expensive,  but  the  remnants  left  from 
roasts  and  broils  improve  any  stock  greatly.  Where 
there  is  game  in  abundance,  it  may  be  treated  in  soups 
the  same  as  other  meats. 

Young  meat,  such  as  lamb  and  chicken,  rarely  is  used 
in  stock.  The  bones  or  trimmings  from  roasts  or  broils 
may  be  added  to  stock,  but  nothing  else  should  be. 
Osmazone,  which  gives  flavor  and  odor  to  meat,  is  found 
in  larger  quantities  in  old  animals  than  in  young  ones ; 
therefore  the  meat  of  matured  animals  is  the  best  for 
stock.  ~ 

Veal  combined  with  beef  gives  a  smoothness  to  soup 
which  is  lacking  when  only  beef  is  used.  The  best  parts 
of  veal  to  use  are  the  shin,  head,  and  feet.  They  contain 
the  most  gelatine,  and  are  less  useful  for  other  modes  of 
cooking;  but  the  stock  made  from  them  has  very  little 
flavor,  and  is  usually  combined  with  stock  made  from 
other  meats  or  with  milk  or  cream. 

Thickening  for  Soups. 

In  thickening  soups  one  aims  first  to  get  consistency, 
next  color,  and  finally  flavor.  Sometimes  a  soup  is 
wanted  rather  thick  and  yet  perfectly  clear.  There  are 


11  J          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

three  substances  which  will  give  this  effect,  —  arrowroot, 
ooru-starch,  and  tapioca  ground  fine.  Arrowroot  is  by 
far  the  best  of  the  three  if  one  be  particular  to  avoid 
leaving  any  trace  of  the  thickening  ingredient  in  the 
soup.  One  table-spoonful  mixed  with  a  cupful  of  cold 
stock  until  smooth,  and  then  stirred  into  one  quart  of 
boiling  stock,  —  the  whole  being  simmered  for  half  an 
hour,  — will  give  a  soup  considerable  body  aud  yet  leave 
it  perfectly  transparent. 

Corn-starch  is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  arrowroot, 
but  there  is  always  a  little  cloudiness  in  the  soup. 

Fine  tapioca — "Tapioca  Exotique,"  a  French  prepara- 
tion —  will  give  a  clear,  gelatinous  soup,  but  the  grains 
will  be  faintly  perceptible.  One  table-spoonful  of  this 
preparation  may  be  sprinkled  into  one  quart  of  boiling 
stock.  The  soup  must  be  stirred  for  the  first  three  or 
four  minutes ;  then  it  can  be  pushed  back  where  it  will 
simmer  for  half  an  hour.  If  there  be  no  objection  to  the 
distinct  grains  in  the  soup,  ten  minutes'  cooking  of  the 
tapioca  will  be  sufficient  This  preparation  is  very  nice 
for  any  kind  of  soup,  thick  or  clear.  It  may  be  added  to 
any  kind  of  stock,  and  in  ten  minutes  the  stock  will  be 
ready  for  use.  Host  first-class  grocers  keep  this  article, 
which  may  be  had  in  half-pound  packages. 

For  white  or  cream  soups  the  three  substances  already 
named  are  used,  though  rice,  bread,  barley,  and  flour  are 
more  commonly  employed. 

When  it  is  desired  to  make  a  cream  soup  yellow  and 
rich,  the  yolks  of  eggs  are  used.  They  are  beaten  thor- 
oughly, and  after  a  little  cold  liquid — like  cream  or 
milk — has  been  added,  they  are  stirred  into  the  soup 
just  before  it  is  taken  from  the  fire. 

When  a  thick  soup  is  desired  brown,  the  flour  is  either 
stirred  over  the  fire  in  a  dry  pan  until  it  becomes  dark 
brown,  or  it  is  put  into  a  pan  with  its  own  volume  of  hot 
batter  and  stirred  until  it  turns  dark  brown.  A  coloring 
substance  like  soup  paste,  caramel,  beef  extract,  or  some 


SOUPS.  118 


of  the  many  preparations  for  coloring  soups  and  sauces, 
is  nearly  always  necessary  where  the  stock  is  not  a  rich 
brown  one. 

Various  other  substances  are  used  occasionally  for 
thickening  soups,  but  only  those  mentioned  are  in  gen- 
eral use. 

Miscellaneous  Notes. 

He  particular  to  cool  stock  rapidly.  If  it  be  allowed 
to  cool  partially  on  the  range  before  it  is  strained,  it  will 
riot  keep  well.  The  more  quickly  it  is  cooled  after  the 
straining,  the  better  it  is. 

Cooking  meat  at  a  high  and  in  a  dry  temperature  de- 
velops a  richer  and  more  savory  flavor;  so,  when  it  is 
possible,  it  is  well  to  brown  the  meat  before  adding  the 
water  to  it. 

The  less  fat  there  is  in  the  stock-pot  the  more  delicate 
will  be  the  flavor  of  the  soup.  Cut  off  as  much  fat  as 
possible  before  putting  the  meat  into  the  pot. 

A  delicate  flavor  of  ham  improves  stock,  but  it  should 
be  so  slight  as  hardly  to  be  recognized.  An  ounce  of 
ham  to  a  gallon  of  water  is  a  generous  allowance. 

Herbs,  vegetables,  and  spices  always  should  be  used  in 
making  stock,  but  only  in  such  quantities  that  all  the 
flavors  will  be  nicely  blended.  Here  is  where  one 
has  a  chance  to  display  skill.  Inexperienced  house- 
keepers should,  however,  carefully  follow  rules,  rather 
than  trust  to  their  own  judgment  as  to  the  proper  quan- 
tities to  use. 

Stock  made  with  Shin  of  Beef. 

Have  a  shin  of  beef  broken  into  small  pieces.  Wash 
it  well  and  trim  off  any  tainted  pieces  that  may  be  found 
at  the  lower  end.  Put  it  in  a  large  soup-kettle  with  a 
quart  of  cold  water  for  every  pound  and  a  half  of  meat 
and  bone.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  then  skim 
thoroughly.  The  liquid  should  be  skimmed  several  times 


114         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

in  half  an  hour.  Now  place  the  pot  where  its  contents 
will  boil  gently  for  ten  hours.  When  it  has  been  cook- 
ing for  eight  hours,  put  in  a  stew-pan  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  two  onions,  cut  fine,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
minced  carrot,  three  of  minced  turnip,  six  of  celery ;  then 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
cook  the  vegetables  a  little  more  rapidly  for  about  a 
minute,  stirring  all  the  time.  When  they  have  become 
browned  slightly,  add  them,  with  the  butter,  to  the 
stock.  Add  also  six  cloves,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  three 
dozen  pepper-corns,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  a 
bouquet  of  sweet  herbs.  Cook  for  an  hour  longer,  and 
then  strain.  Cool  quickly,  and  put  in  a  cold  place  for 
the  night.  In  the  morning  skim  off  all  the  fat,  turn  out 
the  jelly,  and  scrape  off  the  sediment.  This  jelly,  when 
heated,  will  give  a  clear,  well-flavored  stock. 

A  little  more  salt  or  pepper  may  be  required.  The 
seasonings  given  are  for  a  shin  or  leg  of  beef  weighing 
ten  or  twelve  pounds.  This  stock  may  be  used  anywhere 
that  bouillon  or  consomm^  would  be. 

Bouillon. 

This  is  always  made  of  beef,  and  may  be  very  rich  or 
rather  poor  and  light.  Here  is  a  rule  for  nutritious 
bouillon :  For  a  gallon  of  soup  use  ten  pounds  of  clear 
beef  cut  from  the  under  part  of  the  round  or  from  the 
shoulder,  four  quarts  and  a  pint  of  water,  one  large  on- 
ion, one  large  slice  of  carrot,  and  a  slice  of  turnip,  —  each 
slice  weighing  about  three  ounces,  —  three  blades  of 
celery,  three  dozen  pepper-corns,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  a 
piece  of  cinnamon  about  three  inches  long,  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  two  sprigs 
each  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  summer  savory,  three  bay 
leaves,  and  a  leaf  of  sage. 

First  rid  the  meat  of  all  its  fat,  then  cut  off  a  pound 
of  lean  meat  and  put  it  away  in  a  cool  place ;  and  after 
cutting  the  remainder  of  the  beef  into  small  pieces,  put 


SOUPS.  115 

it  into  a  soup-pot  with  the  cold  water.  Heat  slowly, 
watching  carefully  all  the  while,  and  as  soon  as  the 
water  begins  to  boil  skim  it  carefully.  When  the  liquid 
has  been  thoroughly  skimmed,  move  the  pot  back  where 
its  contents  will  keep  at  the  boiling-point  for  six  hours. 
A  slight  bubbling  at  the  sides  of  the  kettle  is  a  sufficient 
cooking.  At  the  end  of  the  six  hours  add  the  spice,  salt, 
vegetables,  and  the  herbs,  —  which  should  be  tied  in  a 
bit  of  thin  muslin,  —  and  after  making  these  additions, 
cook  for  one  hour  longer.  When  this  time  has  passed, 
draw  the  pot  forward,  and  let  the  soup  boil  rapidly  for 
one  minute;  then  strain  immediately,  and  set  away  to 
cool. 

The  next  morning  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  stock. 
Chop  very  fine  the  pound  of  meat  that  was  reserved, 
and  put  it  into  the  soup-kettle  with  the  stock.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  three  eggs  until  light,  and  stir  them  into  the 
pot  containing  the  other  ingredients.  Place  on  the  stove, 
and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  stirring  occasion- 
ally. When  the  soup  begins  to  bubble,  remove  it  imme- 
diately to  the  back  part  of  the  range.  Cover,  and  keep 
at  the  boiling-point  for  one  hour ;  then  taste  the  soup  to 
find  whether  it  is  properly  seasoned.  It  may  require  a 
very  little  salt  aud  pepper.  Strain  through  a  napkin, 
and  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

A  soup  made  in  this  way  will  never  jelly,  and  will 
have  a  peculiar  flavor  not  found  in  a  soup  made  by  cook- 
ing at  a  higher  temperature. 

Sometimes  bouillon  is  given  a  little  more  body  by  the 
addition  of  gelatine.  To  do  this,  soak  a  package  of  gel- 
atine in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  two  hours  or  more. 
When  the  stock,  fine-chopped  beef,  and  the  three  whites 
of  eggs  are  put  on  the  stove,  add  the  soaked  gelatine. 
Stir  the  stock  well  from  the  bottom  two  or  three  times 
while  it  is  heating,  otherwise  the  gelatine  may  stick  to 
the  kettle,  get  burned,  and  spoil  the  soup. 

A  soup  only  half  as  rich  may  be  made  by  following 


116          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  above  rule,  but  using  only  half  the  quantity  of  meat 
stated.  Bouillon  may  have  added  to  it  vegetables,  rice, 
barley,  or  any  form  of  macaroni;  but  it  is  generally 
served  plain,  either  in  soup-plates,  if  at  dinner,  or  in 
cups,  at  lunches  and  germans. 

Consomm6. 

So  much  work  is  required  to  prepare  this  soup  that 
inexperienced  housekeepers  hesitate  to  try  to  make  it. 
Here  is  a  comparatively  simple  and  sure  receipt:  Use 
for  a  gallon  of  soup  four  pounds  of  beef,  cut  from  the 
under  part  of  the  round,  four  pounds  of  a  shin  of  veal, 
a  fowl  weighing  about  five  pounds,  six  quarts  of  cold 
water,  a  large  onion,  four  table-spoonfuls  each  of  chopped 
carrot,  turnip,  and  celery,  two  sprigs  each  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  summer  savory,  three  bay  leaves,  and  one 
large  leaf  of  sage,  —  all  these  herbs  being  tied  in  a  piece 
of  muslin,  —  forty  pepper-corns,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  a 
three-inch  piece  of  cinnamon,  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  ten  all- 
spice, two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs. 

Cut  the  beef  and  veal  into  small  pieces  and  put  them 
in  the  soup-pot.  Cook  over  a  rather  hot  fire  for  half  an 
hour,  stirring  often;  then  add  the  six  quarts  of  cold 
water,  and  let  the  contents  of  the  soup-pot  heat  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point.  Skim  carefully,  and  set  back  where 
the  soup  will  bubble  all  the  while,  and  in  every  part  of 
the  kettle.  Cook  for  three  hours,  and  then  add  the  fowl, 
first  cleaning  it  thoroughly. 

When  the  soup  has  been  cooked  for  five  hours,  put  the 
butter,  the  onions  cut  fine,  and  the  chopped  vegetables 
into  a  frying-pan  and  cook  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
turn  these  ingredients  into  the  kettle,  and  add  also  the 
spice,  herbs,  and  salt.  Cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
longer. 

When  the  fowl  has  been  cooked  for  two  hours  and  a 
half,  see  if  it  is  not  tender  enough  to  take  up,  as  it  need 


SOUPS.  117 


be  cooked  in  the  soup  only  long  enough  to  make  it  tender. 
In  that  time  it  will  impart  a  good  flavor  to  the  stock. 

After  the  soup  has  simmered  in  all  for  six  hours  and 
a  half,  pour  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  set  it  away  to 
cool.  In  the  morning  there  will  be  a  jelly,  from  which 
every  particle  of  fat  should  be  removed.  Put  the  jellied 
stock  into  the  soup-pot,  with  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
the  eggs,  and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  The  in- 
stant the  stock  begins  to  bubble,  set  it  back  where  it  will 
keep  just  at  the  boiling-point  for  half  an  hour.  Strain 
it  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and  it  will  be  found  clear  and 
of  fine  flavor.  The  soup  may  be  used  as  it  is,  or  may  be 
garnished,  like  bouillon. 

Simple  Consomm6. 

It  often  happens  that  there  is  a  little  chicken  stock 
and  a  little  beef  stock  in  the  pantry,  —  not  enough  of 
each,  perhaps,  for  a  tureen  of  soup,  but  which  combined 
will  give  a  delicate  consomme  of  good  flavor. 

Put  into  the  soup-pot  one  quart  of  each  kind  of  stock, 
one  pound  of  veal,  free  of  fat  and  chopped  very  fine,  six 
pepper-corns,  three  cloves,  an  inch  piece  of  stick  cinna- 
mon, a  bit  of  mace,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

Now  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  small  fry- 
ing-pan, and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  celery, 
two  of  onion,  one  of  carrot,  one  of  turnip,  one  bay 
leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  and  a  tiny  sprig  of  thyme. 
Cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour;  then  draw  forward  and 
stir  until  the  vegetables  begin  to  turn  brown.  Press  the 
vegetables  against  the  side  of  the  pan,  to  get  the  butter 
out.  When  they  are  as  free  of  butter  as  possible,  put 
them  into  the  soup-pot  with  the  other  ingredients.  Place 
the  pot  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  soup  begins  to  boil,  set 
it  back  where  it  will  hardly  bubble  for  an  hour.  Taste 
at  the  end  of  that  time,  to  be  sure  that  no  more  salt  is 
needed.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  common  strainer  and  then 


118          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

through  a  napkin  that  has  been  dipped  in  ice  water  and 
wrung  afterward. 

The  veal  that  is  left  may  be  used  for  croquettes. 

Chicken  Consomm6. 

The  first  step  is  to  cut  the  breasts  from  two  large 
fowls  and  put  them  away  in  a  cool  place,  and  then  cut 
the  other  parts  of  the  fowls  into  joints.  Wash  these,  and 
put  them  into  a  soup-pot  with  four  quarts  of  cold  water ; 
and  when  the  broth  has  been  heated  to  the  degree  at 
which  it  boils,  skim  it  carefully,  and  set  back  where  it 
will  boil  gently  for  six  hours.  During  the  last  hour  and 
a  half  one  of  the  breasts  should  be  cooked  with  the  soup, 
and  it  should  then  be  taken  out  and  put  away  to  cool. 
The  soup,  after  being  strained  through  a  colander,  should 
also  be  put  away.  When  it  has  become  cold,  and  all  the 
fat  has  been  skimmed  off,  turn  it  back  into  the  soup-pot, 
and  add  a  small  piece  of  mace  and  of  cinnamon,  a  large 
onion  or  two  small  ones,  two  blades  of  celery,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  three  dozen  pepper-corns,  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the  uncooked  breast  of  one  of 
the  fowls,  chopped  very  fine.  Let  the  soup  heat  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point,  and  set  back  where  it  will  retain 
that  degree  of  heat  for  one  hour.  It  should  then  be  per- 
fectly clear,  —  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  other  sediment 
having  settled  on  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  Taste  the  soup 
to  find  whether  it  requires  more  seasoning.  Dip  an  old 
napkin  into  hot  water  and  place  it  in  a  strainer,  and  after 
the  consomme  has  been  poured  through  this  it  will  be 
ready  for  serving.  It  may  be  improved,  however,  by 
cutting  the  cooked  breast  of  one  of  the  fowls  into  thin 
bits,  and  heating  the  meat  in  the  consomme  after  the 
straining. 

Consomm6  with  Rice. 

Use  two  table-spoonfuls  of  uncooked  rice  to  two  quarts 
of  clear  soup.  After  ridding  the  rice  of  all  dark  par- 
ticles, wash  it  in  three  waters,  rubbing  it  thoroughly 


SOUPS.  119 


between  the  hands  while  it  is  in  the  first  water.  When  it 
has  been  properly  washed,  put  it  into  an  uncovered  stew- 
pan  with  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  place  the  pan 
where  its  contents  will  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  the  first  fifteen  minutes  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt ;  and  at  the  end  of  the  twenty  minutes  turn  the  rice 
into  a  strainer  and  pour  over  it  a  quart  of  cold  water, 
which  will  rinse  off  any  starch  that  may  be  clinging  to  the 
grains.  Heat  the  soup,  and  after  adding  the  rice  to  it, 
cook  for  ten  minutes  without  letting  it  boil. 

Consomme  with  Barley. 

With  two  quarts  of  the  clear  soup  use  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  pearl  barley.  Wash  it  in  the  same  way  rice  is 
washed,  and  put  it  on  the  stove  with  three  pints  of  cold 
water.  Cook  gently  for  five  hours,  adding  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  when  four  hours  have  passed.  Strain  the 
barley,  rinse  with  cold  water,  and  treat  the  same  as  rice. 

Consomm6  with  Macaroni. 

Break  half  a  dozen  sticks  of  macaroni  into  pieces  about 
two  inches  long,  and  boil  them  for  twenty  minutes  in  one 
quart  of  water.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  when  the  first 
fifteen  minutes  have  passed,  and  treat  in  every  particu- 
lar the  same  as  rice.  Any  kind  of  Italian  paste  may  be 
used  in  the  same  way. 

Consomm6  with  Profiteroles. 

Make  profiteroles  by  the  rule  given  under  "  Garnishes." 
Pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen,  and  then  add  the  profite- 
roles. Half  a  pint  of  the  little  balls  will  be  enough  for 
three  pints  of  soup. 

Consomm6  with  Force-meat  Balls. 

Prepare  chicken  force-meat  as  directed  in  "  Garnishes." 
Form  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  cherry.  Drop  them 
into  a  pint  of  clear  boiling  stock  that  is  set  back  where 


120          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

it  will  not  boil  up.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  then  put 
them  into  the  tureen  and  pour  in  three  pints  of  hot  con- 
somme. Serve  at  once. 

One  cupful  of  the  force-meat  will  make  a  generous 
allowance  of  balls.  Save  for  sauces  the  stock  in  which 
they  were  boiled. 

Consomm6  with  Quenelles. 

Make  some  chicken  or  veal  force-meat  as  directed. 
Butter  the  bottom  of  a  small  saucepan.  Dip  two  tea- 
spoons in  hot  water,  and  after  filling  one  with  the  force- 
meat, turn  the  contents  into  the  other  spoon.  This  will 
give  the  quenelles  their  shape.  Drop  them  in  the  but- 
tered pan.  When  all  are  done,  cover  with  hot  stock,  and 
place  where  they  will  keep  hot  without  boiling.  Pro- 
ceed as  for  consomme  with  force-meat  balls. 

Consomm£  with  Green  Peas. 

For  six  persons  use  one  pint  of  green  peas.  Boil  them 
in  salt  and  water ;  then  drain  them,  and  put  them  in  a 
stew-pan  with  three  pints  of  consomme.  Cover,  and 
cook  gently  for  five  minutes. 

In  winter  use  one  cupful  of  the  best  French  peas.  Turn 
them  into  a  strainer,  and  pour  cold  water  over  them. 
Drain  well,  and  proceed  the  same  as  with  fresh  peas. 

Consomm6  with  Asparagus  Tops. 

Cut  the  delicate  green  tops  from  a  bunch  of  asparagus. 
Wash  them,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  for  fifteen 
minutes ;  then  drain  them,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan 
with  three  pints  of  consomme.  Cook  gently  for  five 
minutes,  and  serve  immediately  afterward. 

Consomm6  with  Poached  Eggs. 

For  six  persons  provide  three  pints  of  consomme  and 
six  eggs.  Have  the  consomme  hot.  Butter  the  bottom 


SOUPS.  121 


of  a  large  frying-pan,  and  put  six  small  muffin-rings  in  it. 
Put  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  the  rings.  Add 
one  table-spoonful  of  vinegar  and  one  of  salt.  Draw  the 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  range  where  the  water  will  just 
bubble  at  one  side  of  the  pan.  Break  the  eggs  into  the 
rings,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  yolks,  and  cook  un- 
til the  whites  are  rather  firm.  It  will  take  about  three 
minutes. 

Pour  the  water  from  the  pan,  and  then  take  out  the 
rings.  With  a  cake-turner,  take  out  the  eggs,  being 
careful  to  drain  oft'  all  the  water.  Put  them  in  the  soup 
tureen,  being  careful  to  leave  a  little  space  between  each 
one,  that  they  may  be  lifted  readily  with  the  ladle. 
Now  add  the  consomme,  and  serve. 

Julienne  Soup. 

Authorities  differ  as  to  the  origin  of  the  name  of  this 
soup.  The  commonly  accepted  idea  is  that  it  was  sug- 
gested by  the  French  word  for  July,  Juillet,  because  the 
vegetables  used  in  making  the  dish  are  in  their  prime  in 
early  summer.  An  attempt  also  has  been  made  to  prove 
that  the  soup  was  invented  by  a  Boston  restaurateur 
named  Julian,  who  carried  on  his  business  near  the  Old 
South  Church  a  great  many  years  ago,  and  gave  his  name 
to  the  soup  after  it  became  popular. 

Julienne  soup  is  now  understood  to  be  prepared  of  a 
rich,  clear  stock  and  several  kinds  of  vegetables,  —  car- 
rots, turnips,  celery,  lettuce  or  cabbage,  and  sorrel.  Peas, 
beans,  cauliflower,  and  asparagus  often  are  used.  Some- 
times the  onion  also  is  used.  In  such  cases  it  seems  as 
if  it  would  always  be  -well  to  cook  the  onion  in  the  stock, 
and  remove  it  when  the  meat  and  bones  are  removed, 
because  many  people  who  will  not  eat  this  vegetable 
like  its  flavor  in  soup  or  sauce. 

The  vegetables  may  be  cooked  in  either  of  two  ways,  — 
fried  in  butter,  or  boiled  in  water.  By  the  first  method 
the  soup  is  made  more  savory,  and  by  the  second  mode, 


122          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

handsomer.  Any  kind  of  clear  stock  may  be  employed 
for  the  soup ;  but  the  richer  it  is,  the  better. 

For  two  quarts  of  stock  use,  in  equal  quantities,  one 
pint  of  turnips,  carrots,  and  celery,  all  cut  into  narrow 
strips  about  an  inch  long,  one  pint  of  fine-shred  lettuce, 
and  one  gill  of  sorrel,  cut  into  thin  strips. 

After  putting  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a 
small  frying-pan,  set  the  pan  on  the  stove.  When  the 
butter  becomes  melted,  put  in  the  carrots,  turnips,  and 
celery,  besides  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Cook  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  being  careful  that  the  vegetables  do  not 
get  browned. 

As  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  put  on  to  fry,  put  the 
stock  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  and  set  it  on  the  back  part  of 
the  stove  where  it  will  heat  slowly.  Now  wash  the  sor- 
rel, and  cover  it  with  cold  water.  Wash  the  lettuce  also ; 
and  after  putting  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  boil  it  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  drain  it 
carefully. 

When  the  vegetables  have  been  cooking  for  half  an 
hour,  draw  them  to  one  side  of  the  pan,  and  press  out  as 
much  of  the  butter  as  possible.  Put  the  drained  lettuce, 
the  sorrel,  and  fried  vegetables  into  the  two  quarts  of 
stock,  which  should  now  be  at  the  boiling-point.  Add 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  .  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  cook  the  soup 
gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  It  will  then  be  ready 
to  serve. 

If  one  lack  garden  sorrel,  wild  sorrel  may  be  used. 
Of  course,  when  this  soup  is  made  in  the  winter,  it  has 
to  be  made  without  sorrel,  unless  one  be  near  enough  to 
a  large  city  market  to  obtain  a  supply. 


Here  is  a  different  receipt  for  Julienne  soup :  Use  two 
quarts  of  clear  stock,  one  pint  of  carrots,  turnips,  and 
celery  combined,  half  a  pint  of  peas,  half  a  pint  of  cauli- 
flower, and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 


SOUPS.  123 


Put  the  carrot  and  one  quart  of  boiling  water  into  a 
saucepan,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  the  turnip 
and  celery,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer.  When  this 
time  has  passed,  add  the  cauliflower,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  If  the  water  should  boil  away,  add  more ;  for 
the  vegetables  must  be  covered  all  the  time.  If  canne  1 
peas  be  used,  they  will  only  need  to  be  rinsed  and  added 
to  the  soup  with  the  other  vegetables ;  but  if  fresh  peas 
be  used,  they  must  be  boiled  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes 
in  clear  water. 

When  all  the  vegetables  are  done,  drain  off  all  the 
water,  and  add  the  vegetables  and  the  teaspoonful  of  salt 
to  -the  two  quarts  of  hot  stock.  Cook  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  serve. 

This  soup  will  be  improved  if  a  gill  of  sorrel  be  added 
with  the  cooked  vegetables.  It  should  be  understood 
that  the  stock  must  be  properly  seasoned  before  the  veg- 
etables are  put  into  it,  the  spoonful  of  salt  being  used 
simply  to  season  the  vegetables.  Julienne  soup  is  best, 
of  course,  if  madft  when  vegetables  have  just  been  taken 
from  the  garden,  and  are  very  delicate ;  still,  it  may  be 
made  at  any  time  with  satisfactory  results,  if  a  little 
care  be  given  to  its  preparation. 

Still  another  rule :  Chop  fine  three  pounds  of  the  round 
of  beef.  Add  to  it  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  let 
it  stand  for  two  hours ;  then  place  on  the  fire,  and  heat 
the  water  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  Simmer  the  meat 
gently  for  four  hours;  then  add  an  onion,  two  cloves,  a 
bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  cook  an 
hour  longer.  Let  the  soup  boil  rather  briskly  for  the 
last  ten  minutes;  then  strain,  and  cool  quickly.  The 
next  morning  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  pour  the  soup 
back  into  the  kettle,  being  careful  to  keep  out  the  sedi- 
ment. Cut  into  small  dice  enough  turnips,  carrots,  cauli- 
flower, and  celery  to  make  a  half-pint  of  each  vegetable. 


124          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cover  all  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  for  an  hour. 
Heat  the  soup  to  the  boiling-point,  and  after  adding  the 
vegetables  (without  the  water  in  which  they  were  cooked), 
simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Taste  before  serving, 
to  be  sure  there  is  enough  seasoning. 

Brown  Soup. 

This  is  rich  and  fine,  suitable  for  a  most  elaborate  din- 
ner. It  cannot  be  made  in  a  hurry,  yet  its  manufacture 
is  not  so  great  a  task  as  may  at  first  appear,  because  the 
soup  requires  no  special  attention  the  major  part  of  the 
time  it  is  cooking. 

Use  a  gallon  of  water,  three  pounds  of  the  round  of 
beef,  two  pounds  of  a  shin  of  veal,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  one  table-spoonful  each  of  chopped  onion,  carrot, 
and  turnip,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  two  cloves, 
eighteen  pepper-corns,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  arrowroot, 
and  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt. 

Cut  the  meat  into  bits,  and  putting  it  into  a  soup-kettle 
with  the  cold  water,  heat  it  slowly  to  the  boiling-point ; 
then  skim  the  liquor  carefully,  and  set  the  kettle  back 
where  its  contents  will  boil  gently  for  ten  hours.  At  the 
end  of  eight  hours  put  the  butter  and  vegetables  into  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes; 
then  add  to  the  soup,  together  with  the  spice  and  herbs. 

When  the  soup  has  cooked  for  the  required  time,  strain 
it,  and  put  it  in  a  cool  place.  The  next  morning  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  and  pour  the  soup  into  the  kettle,  being 
careful  that  no  sediment  follows  the  liquid.  Set  the 
kettle  on  the  stove,  and  then  mix  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  arrowroot  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  As 
soon  as  the  soup  begins  to  boil,  stir  the  arrowroot 
into  it,  and  set  it  back  where  it  will  only  simmer  for 
the  next  twenty  minutes.  Taste,  to  be  sure  that  there 
is  enough  seasoning;  for  more  salt  and  pepper  may  be 
required  to  produce  the  best  flavor.  To  the  ininds  of 
some  people  it  will  be  considered  as  an  improvement 


SOUPS.  125 

to  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy  into  the  soup  at  the 
last  moment. 

A  quick  way  of  making  a  brown  soup  is  to  thicken 
three  quarts  of  clear  consomme  or  bouillon  with  arrow- 
root, and  flavor  it  with  brandy. 

Beef  Soup,  with  Barley. 

Use  two  pounds  of  beef,  from  the  round.  After  re- 
moving all  the  fat,  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and 
then  chop  it  very  fine.  Put  it  into  a  soup-pot  with  two 
quarts  of  cold  water ;  and  after  slowly  heating  the  liquid 
to  the  boiling-point,  and  skimming  carefully,  cover  it 
closely,  and  set  it  back  where  it  will  simply  bubble  for 
three  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  an  onion,  a 
small  slice  of  carrot,  a  stalk  of  celery,  two  cloves  and 
a  bay  leaf;  then  simmer  for  another  hour. 

At  the  same  time  the  chopped  meat  is  put  on  to  boil, 
put  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  well- washed  barley  into  a 
stew-pan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Simmer  for  four 
hours. 

Strain  the  soup,  and  add  to  it  the  cooked  barley. 
Return  the  pot  to  the  fire,  and  let  the  soup  boil  up.  Put 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a  small  stew-pan,  and  when 
it  becomes  hot  add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until 
smooth  and  brown;  then  add  to  the  soup.  Season  to 
your  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 

*  Barley  Soup. 

Put  into  the  soup-pot  the  bones  and  trimmings  left 
from  a  dish  of  beefsteak,  roast  chicken,  or  other  meat. 
Add  six  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  when  it  has  become 
heated  to  the  boiling-point,  skim  it  carefully,  and  set 
back  where  it  will  boil  gently  for  four  hours.  Wash 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  barley,  and  let  it  simmer  for 
three  hour's  in  two-thirds  of  a  quart  of  water,  —  cold 
when  put  on.  Cut  an  onion,  half  a  small  carrot,  and 
half  a  small  turnip  into  small  cubes,  and  put  them  into  a 


126          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

frying-pan  containing  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain  the  liquor  from 
the  bones  in  the  soup-pot,  and  add  the  cooked  barley  to 
it.  Now  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  to  the  butter 
and  vegetables  in  the  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  the  mix- 
ture begins  to  bubble;  then  add  the  contents  of  the 
frying-pan  to  the  soup.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  cook  half  an  hour  longer.  Serve  with  toasted 
bread. 

*  Shin-of-Beef  Soup. 

The  ingredients  are  six  pounds  of  the  shin  of  beef, 
three  onions,  one  turnip,  one  carrot,  half  a  cupful  of  rice, 
six  potatoes,  a  few  leaves  of  celery,  one  quart  of  finely 
shred  cabbage,  salt,  pepper,  seven  quarts  of  cold  water. 

Having  had  the  shin-bone  cracked,  wash  it,  place  it  in 
the  soup-kettle,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  for  about 
twenty  minutes.  Stir  often.  Now  add  the  onions, 
sliced  thin,  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer,  stirring  fre- 
quently. Add  the  cold  water,  and  when  it  conies  to  the 
boiling-point,  skim.  Simmer  for  two  hours,  and  then 
add  the  carrot,  turnip,  and  cabbage,  all  cut  fine.  Sim- 
mer two  hours  longer,  and  add  the  rice,  potatoes,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Cook  one  hour  longer  before  serving. 

Barley  may  be  used  instead  of  rice ;  but  in  that  case 
it  should  be  added  with  the  cold  water,  as  it  requires  a 
great  deal  of  cooking. 

*  Sago  Soup. 

After  freeing  of  fat  all  the  bones  that  were  left  from  a 
dish  of  roast  beef,  put  them,  with  the  tough,  hard  bits  of 
meat,  into  the  soup-kettle,  together  with  a  gallon  of 
water,  and  boil  gently  for  two  hours ;  then  add  half  a 
cupful  of  sago,  three  cloves,  a  piece  of  stick  cinnamon 
about  three  inches  long,  half  a  teaspoonful- of  pepper, 
one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  a  large  onion,  two  large  slices 
of  carrot,  two  of  turnip,  two  of  parsnip,  two  stalks  of 


SOUPS.  127 


celery  or  a  few  leaves,  a  small  leaf  of  sage,  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  and  one  of  summer  savory. 
Simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  Taste  to  see  if  seasoned 
enough ;  and  if  it  be  not,  add  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  the  soup.  Cook  half  an  hour  longer ; 
then  strain  through  a  colander,  and  serve  with  strips  of 
toasted  bread. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup. 

The  cooking  must  be  begun  the  day  before  the  soup 
will  be  wanted.  A  calf's  head  is  one  of  the  articles 
needed,  but  a  part  of  it  may  be  used  for  dishes  other 
than  the  soup.  The  full  list  of  materials  required  for 
six  quarts  of  soup  is  as  follows :  A  calf's  head,  a  shin  of 
veal  weighing  six  pounds,  an  onion,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  chopped  carrot,  two  of  turnip,  three  stalks  of  celery 
if  it  may  be  had,  a  piece  of  stick  cinnamon  about  three 
inches  long,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  ten  cloves,  twenty 
pepper-corns,  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  or 
corn-starch,  one  table-spoonful  each  of  walnut,  mushroom, 
and  tomato  ketchup  (as  ketchups  vary  in  strength,  more 
may  be  needed  to  give  the  soup  the  best  possible  flavor), 
two  lemons,  a  quantity  of  cold  water,  a  gill  or  more  of 
Port,  some  salt  and  pepper,  and,  if  one  choose,  some  egg 
or  force-meat  balls.  It  may  seem  as  if  six  quarts  of 
soup  were  too  large  a  quantity  to  make  at  one  time ; 
therefore  it  may  be  well  to  say,  in  explanation,  that  a 
calf's  head  is  sufficient  for  that  quantity,  and  half  of  a 
head  cannot  be  bought.  Bear  in  mind  that  if  all  the 
soup  be  not  wanted  at  one  meal,  the  remainder  will  be 
good  if  warmed  again. 

Have  the  butcher  split  and  scrape  the  calf's  head, 
and  saw  the  bone  of  the  shin  of  veal  into  several  parts. 
Wash  all  carefully.  Put  the  head  into  a  large  pan,  and 
after  covering  it  with  cold  water,  soak  it  for  two  hours. 


128          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

At  the  end  of  that  time  take  out  the  brains,  place  the 
head  in  a  large  soup-pot,  and  after  putting  in  the  shin 
also,  pour  in  two  gallons  of  cold  water.  Heat  slowly  to 
the  boiling-point ;  then  skiin  carefully,  and  set  the  pot 
back  where  the  liquor  will  simply  bubble  for  three  hours. 
When  that  time  has  passed,  take  up  the  veal  with  a 
skimmer,  and  then  remove  the  head,  being  careful  not  to 
break  it.  Strain  the  stock  that  is  in  the  soup-pot,  and 
put  all  but  two  quarts  away  to  cool.  These  two  quarts 
should  be  returned  to  the  kettle  with  the  shin  of  veal ; 
the  spice  mentioned  above  should  be  added,  and  the 
kettle  covered  and  set  where  its  contents  will  only 
simmer. 

Now  put  the  vegetables,  cut  fine,  and  the  butter  into 
a  frying-pan,  and  fry  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  At  the 
last  moment  draw  the  pan  forward,  so  that  the  vegetables 
shall  become  slightly  browned  by  more  rapid  cooking. 
Be  careful  that  they  do  not  get  burned.  Add  these 
vegetables  to  the  veal  and  stock,  and  cook  all  for  four 
hours ;  then  strain  and  put  away  to  cool. 

In  the  morning,  after  skimming  off  all  the  fat,  turn 
the  two  lots  of  strained  stock  into  the  soup-pot,  and  set 
upon  the  stove.  Add  the  ketchup,  and  also  salt  and 
pepper  in  quantities  to  suit  your  taste;  and  when  the 
soup  boils  up,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  the  wine,  and 
the  face  of  the  calf,  cut  into  small  strips.  Cover  the 
soup-pot  closely,  and  set  it  back  where  its  contents  will 
hardly  bubble  during  the  next  fifteen  minutes.  It  will 
then  be  ready  to  serve ;  but  if  it  be  intended  for  a  late 
dinner  it  may  be  cooled,  put  away,  and  heated  again 
when  wanted. 

Thin  slices  of  lemon,  cut  in  quarters,  and  egg  balls  and 
force-meat  balls  should  be  put  into  the  tureen  before  the 
soup  is  turned  into  it,  if  one  would  have  mock  turtle 
soup  in  perfection.  As  it  takes  much  time  to  make 
force-meat  balls,  they  may  be  omitted ;  but  egg  balls 
should  be  used,  as  they  are  easily  prepared. 


SOUPS.  129 


Spaghetti  Soup. 

Put  into  the  soup-pot  two  quarts  of  chicken  stock,  a 
whole  onion,  two  cloves,  twelve  pepper-corns,  a  bit  of 
cinnamon,  three  stalks  of  celery,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  slice 
of  turnip,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Cover  closely,  and  cook 
slowly  for  an  hour.  Season  to  your  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  strain  through  a  napkin.  Keturn  to  the 
soup-pot,  and  add  a  cupful  of  spaghetti,  broken  into 
short  pieces.  Cover  the  kettle,  and  set  it  where  the 
soup  will  hardly  bubble  for  an  hour.  This  mode  of 
cooking  will  insure  a  fine  mellow  flavor  of  the  spaghetti, 
without  breaking  it,  or  clouding  the  soup. 

*  Turkey  Soup. 

After  cutting  from  the  remains  of  a  turkey  as  much 
fat  as  possible,  break  the  bones,  and  put  them  into  the 
soup-pot,  together  with  any  dressing  and  bits  of  tough 
meat  left  from  a  turkey  dinner.  Pour  upon  them  three 
quarts  of  cold  water,  and  simmer  for  four  hours.  After 
the  soup  has  been  cooking  for  one  hour,  add  one-third  of 
a  cupful  of  rice ;  and  after  three  hours,  take  out  the  bones 
and  skim  off  all  the  fat.  Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  into  a  small  frying-pan;  and  when  melted,  put 
into  it  an  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  and  three  stalks  of 
celery,  all  cut  fine.  Cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes ; 
then  skim  the  vegetables  from  the  butter  and  put  them 
into  the  soup.  Into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan  put 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and 
frothy  ;  then  add  this  mixture  to  the  soup.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer. 

• 
Chicken  Soup. 

Use  a  fowl  weighing  four  or  five  pounds,  one-fourth  of 
a  cupful  of  rice,  three  quarts  of  water,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  each  of  minced  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and 
celery,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  of  salt,  one-third  of 

9 


130          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg. 

Singe,  draw,  and  wash  the  fowl.  Put  it  breast  down 
in  a  deep  kettle.  Pour  in  three  quarts  of  cold  water, 
and  then  set  the  kettle  on  the  fire.  When  the  water 
begins  to  boil,  skim  it  carefully ;  then  set  the  kettle 
back  where  the  contents  will  only  simmer  during  the 
next  three  hours.  At  the  end  of  the  first  hour  add  the 
rice,  well  washed.  At  the  end  of  the  three  hours  take 
up  the  fowl,  skim  the  fat  from  the  broth,  and  then 
gently  pour  off  one  pint  from  the  upper  part  of  the 
liquid,  being  careful  to  keep  out  all  the  rice.  Put  this 
away  for  use  in  making  other  dishes. 

Now  put  the  butter  and  minced  vegetables  into  a  small 
frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Skim  the 
vegetables  from  the  butter  and  put  them  in  the  soup. 
In  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan  put  the  dry  flour, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then  add  to  the  soup. 
Add  also  the  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  for  half  an  hour 
longer,  and  then  add  the  parsley,  a  grating  of  nutmeg, 
and  one  pint  of  the  chicken,  cut  into  cubes.  Boil  for  five 
minutes  before  serving. 

If  it  be  inconvenient  to  use  celery,  take  one-fourth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed. 

Chicken  Gombo. 

Cut  two  chickens  into  handsome  pieces,  and  fry  until 
a  delicate  brown  in  half  a  cupful  of  salt-pork  fat,  ob- 
tained by  frying  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork  slowly.  When 
the  chicken  is  cooked,  take  it  up  and  put  it  into  a  large 
stew-pan.  Into  the  fat  in  which  the  meat  was  fried  put  a 
large  onion,  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  add  a  quart  of  okra,  cut  fine,  five  sliced 
tomatoes,  and  two  sprigs  of  parsley.  Fry  all  these  in- 
gredients rather  slowly  for  half  an  hour  ;  then  add  them 
to  the  fried  chicken.  Pour  into  the  dish  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  boiling  water,  and  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful 


SOUPS.  131 


of  pepper  and  two  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  salt.  Stew 
slowly  for  two  hours  ;  then  add  a  cupful  of  cream  and  a 
cupful  of  boiled  rice.  Taste,  to  be  sure  there  is  enough 
seasoning ;  and  if  there  be,  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

This  is  a  famous  Southern  dish.  When  fresh  okra 
cannot  be  obtained,  one  can  of  the  article  may  be  substi- 
tuted. The  chickens  may  be  a  year  or  more  old.  One- 
fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  may  be  used  instead  of 
white  pepper,  if  preferred.  The  dish  is  so  substantial 
that  it  is  sufficient  for  a  dinner,  with  vegetables,  and  a 
light  dessert. 

Oyster  Gombo. 

Use  one  large  chicken  or  two  small  ones,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one 
quart  of  oysters,  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  two  sprigs 
of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  cayenne,  and  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sassafras. 

Draw,  singe,  and  wash  the  chickens.  Wipe  them,  and 
then  cut  into  joints.  Eoll  these  pieces  in  the  flour.  Put 
the  butter  on  the  fire  in  the  frying-pan ;  and  when  it 
becomes  hot,  put  in  the  chicken,  and  cook  until  brown 
on  all  sides.  Take  the  chicken  from  the  frying-pan 
and  put  it  in  a  large  stew-pan  with  the  boiling  water. 
Put  into  the  frying-pan  any  flour  remaining  from  that 
in  which  the  chicken  was  rolled,  and  stir  until  smooth 
and  frothy.  Add  this  mixture  to  the  chicken  and  water. 
Now  add  the  salt  and  pepper  and  the  parsley  and  thyme, 
tied  in  a  bunch.  Simmer  for  two  hours.  See  if  the 
bones  will  slip  from  the  chicken ;  if  they  will  not,  sim- 
mer until  they  will ;  then  take  out  the  herbs. 

Mix  the  powdered  sassafras  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  the  stew-pan.  Now  add  the  oysters. 
Let  the  contents  of  the  kettle  boil  up  once,  and  then  serve 
in  a  tureen.  A  dish  of  rice  should  accompany  the  gombo. 


132          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Okra  Soup. 

This  is  a  palatable  and  substantial  soup.  It  is  made 
of  a  quart  of  okra,  a  fowl,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
salt  pork,  half  a  can  of  tomato,  an  onion,  two  generous 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  The 
tomato  is  not  absolutely  indispensable. 

Wash  the  fowl,  and  cut  it  into  joints  and  other  pieces 
convenient  to  handle.  Slice  the  pork,  and  fry  it  brown  ; 
then  remove  it,  and  put  the  meat  into  the  fat.  Fry 
until  brown,  and  then  put  into  a  soup-pot.  Wash  the 
okra  carefully,  and  cut  it  into  slices.  Cut  the  onion  fine, 
and  cook  it  in  the  frying-pan  for  two  minutes  ;  then  put 
in  the  okra,  and  after  cooking  for  ten  minutes,  transfer 
it  to  the  soup-pot.  Put  the  butter  and  flour  into  the 
frying-pan,  and  stir  until  brown.  Pour  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water  into  the  soup-pot,  and  then  stir  in  the 
browned  flour.  Add  the  tomato  and  seasoning,  and  after 
covering  the  soup,  let  it  simmer  for  two  hours  and  a  half. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  remove  the  bones  of  the  fowl, 
and  serve  the  soup  without  straining. 

Okra-and-Rice  Soup. 

The  materials  required  are  two  quarts  of  chicken 
stock,  one  quart  of  green  okra,  one  uncooked  tomato  or 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  stewed  tomato,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  chopped  onion,  two  of  flour,  three  of  butter,  one- 
fourth  of  a  cupful  of  rice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together  for  three  minutes ; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  brown. 
Heat  the  stock,  and  add  this  mixture  to  it ;  then  add 
the  tomato,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  an  hour. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  put  it  into  a  large 
stew-pan.  Wash  the  okra  carefully,  and  after  cutting 


SOUPS.  133 


off  the  ends  of  the  pods,  cut  the  remaining  parts  into 
thin  slices.  Put  the  okra  into  the  stew-pan  with  the 
rice.  Place  a  coarse  strainer  over  the  stew-pan,  and>  pour 
the  liquid  mixture  through  it ;  then  cover  the  soup,  and 
let  it  simmer  for  an  hour  or  more.  Taste  it,  to  ascertain 
whether  there  is  a  proper  amount  of  seasoning,  before 
serving. 

*  Bean  Soup. 

Use  one  pint  of  beans  (scarlet  runners  are  the  best), 
two  quarts  of  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt. 

Wash  the  beans,  and  let  them  soak  over  night  in  three 
quarts  of  cold  water.  In  the  morning  pour  off  the  water, 
and  put  the  beans  in  a  soup-pot  with  two  quarts  of  fresh 
cold  water.  Cook  slowly  for  five  hours,  stirring  fre- 
quently. Take  the  beans  from  the  fire  at  the  end  of 
that  time,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Return  them 
to  the  soup-pot,  and  after  adding  the  salt,  pepper,  and 
butter,  cook  for  twenty  minutes  longer.  Serve  with 
small  squares  of  toasted  or  fried  bread. 

*  Scotch  Pur6e. 

This  is  a  substantial  soup,  being  made  of  six  large 
potatoes,  two  large  onions,  the  yellow  part  of  a  medium- 
sized  carrot,  one  pound  of  the  neck  of  mutton,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  three  scant  quarts  of 
water. 

Cut  most  of  the  fat  from  the  mutton,  and  then  cut 
nearly  all  the  meat  from  the  bones.  Put  the  meat  and 
bones  into  a  large  stew-pan  with  the  cold  water,  and 
after  heating  slowly  to  the  boiling-point  and  skimming 
carefully,  simmer  for  one  hour.  Scrape  the  carrot,  and 
then  grate  the  yellow  part,  not  touching  the  heart.  Chop 
the  onion  very  fine,  and  slice  the  potatoes  thin. 


134          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

When  the  meat  has  simmered  for  an  hour,  add  the 
vegetables,  and  simmer  for  two  hours  more.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  add  the  pepper,  salt,  and  butter,  and  cook 
half  an  hour  longer.  Kub  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and 
serve  hot. 

*  Pea  Soup. 

Pick  over  and  wash  a  quart  of  dried  peas,  and  soak 
over  night  in  three  quarts  of  cold  water.  In  the  morn- 
ing pour  off  all  this  water,  and  put  the  peas  into  the 
soup-kettle  with  seven  quarts  of  cold  water,  a  pound 
of  salt  pork,  three  cloves,  two  large  onions,  and  three 
stalks  of  celery,  or,  if  you  have  no  celery,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  celery  salt.  Boil  gently  for  seven  hours, 
stirring  often,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  rub  the  soup 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  kettle ;  and  after 
tying  two  sprigs  of  parsley  and  two  bay  leaves  together, 
add  them  to  the  soup.  Taste,  to  be  sure  there  is  season- 
ing enough,  and  add  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream.  When  the 
soup  boils  up,  serve  with  toasted  bread  cut  into  dice. 
The  milk  may  be  omitted. 

St.  Germain  Soup. 

Two  cans  of  peas,  an  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  three  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
three  pints  of  stock  are  what  St.  Germain  soup  calls 
for. 

Eeserve  half  a  pint  of  the  peas,  and  put  the  remainder 
of  the  contents  of  the  two  cans  into  a  stew-pan  with  the 
onion,  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar.  Tie  the  herbs  and  mace 
together,  and  add  them  also.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and 
simmer  for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to  burn ;  then 
mash  the  onion  and  peas  very  fine,  and  add  the  stock 
to  them.  Let  the  soup  heat  to  the  boiling-point,  and 
add  the  flour  and  butter,  rubbed  together  until  light 
and  creamy.  Stir  well,  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer; 


SOUPS.  135 


then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  fire,  and 
add  the  milk  and  remainder  of  the  peas,  well  drained. 
Cook  ten  minutes  longer,  and  then  satisfy  yourself  that 
there  is  sufficient  seasoning.  Serve  with  toasted  bread. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

This  soup  is  made  of  a  can  of  peas,  a  quart  of  chicken 
stock,  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  two  of  flour,  an  onion,  and  salt  and  pepper. 

Cook  the  onion,  peas,  and  stock  together  for  twenty 
minutes  ;  then  remove  the  onion,  and  rub  the  peas  and 
stock  through  a  sieve.  Return  the  soup  to  the  stew-pan, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Rub  the  butter  and 
flour  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  add  to  this  half  a  cupful 
of  the  soup;  then  pour  the  mixture  into  the  stew-pan. 
Add  the  pepper  and  salt  and  cupful  of  cream ;  and  after 
the  soup  has  boiled  for  three  minutes,  it  will  be  finished. 

A  much  more  delicious  soup  can  be  made  of  fresh 
green  peas  when  they  are  in  season. 

Asparagus  Soup. 

Use  a  can  of  asparagus,  a  pint  of  white  stock,  a  pint 
of  cream  or  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of 
chopped  onion,  two  of*  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cut  off  and  lay  aside  the  heads  of  the  asparagus,  and 
cut  the  stalks  into  short  pieces,  and  put  them  on  to  boil 
in  a  stew-pan  with  the  pint  of  stock.  Put  the  butter  and 
onion  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture 
is  smooth  and  frothy,  being  careful  not  to  brown.  Add 
this,  together  with  the  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  to  the 
stock  and  asparagus,  and  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  then  rub  the  soup  through  a  sieve,  and  return  it 
to  the  stew-pan.  Add  the  cream  and  asparagus  heads, 
and  after  boiling  up  once,  serve  without  delay. 


186  MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

In  case  fresh  asparagus  be  substituted  for  canned,  use 
two  bunches.  Cook  them  in  the  stock  or  water  for 
twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  heads  for  later  use,  and 
proceed  with  the  cooking  the  same  as  when  canned  as- 
paragus is  used. 

Sorrel  Soup. 

This  palatable  spring  soup  requires  a  quart  of  sorrel, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  an  onion, 
half  a  cupful  of  water,  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  pint  of 
cream. 

After  washing  the  sorrel,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with 
the  cold  water,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes ;  then  drain  off 
the  water,  and  chop  the  sorrel  very  fine.  Cut  the  onion 
into  bits,  and  putting  it  into  a  frying-pan  with  the  but- 
ter, cook  it  slowly  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  flour, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Add  the  chopped 
sorrel,  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  after  stirring  for 
three  minutes,  gradually  pour  in  the  milk,  which  should 
be  cold.  Simmer  for  five  minutes,  and  meanwhile  heat 
the  cream  to  the  boiling-point.  Strain  the  soup,  and  add 
the  cream  to  it ;  then  serve  immediately. 

This  is  the  simplest  kind  of  sorrel  soup,  save  that 
milk  may  be  substituted  for  the  pint  of  cream.  A  richer 
kind  is  made  by  using  a  pint  of  white  stock  in  place  of 
the  same  quantity  of  milk,  and  the  richness  may  be  fur- 
ther increased  by  beating  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk  and  pouring  the  soup  upon  this 
mixture  just  before  serving  time.  Do  not  fall  into  the 
error  of  supposing  that  it  will  be  as  well  to  stir  the  eggs 
into  the  soup,  because  they  would  then  be  cooked  in 
flakes,  whereas  by  the  other  way  they  are  cooked  to  a 
smooth  cream.  Sorrel  soup  is  not  so  handsome  as  some 
green  soups,  because  the  heat  spoils  the  original  color  of 
the  plant,  but  it  is  certainly  delicious. 


SOUPS.  137 


Normandy  Soup. 

Normandy  soup  is  made  of  three  pounds  of  the  knuckle 
of  veal,  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  one  quart  of  milk,  an 
onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  slice  of  turnip,  a  slight  grating 
of  nutmeg,  a  quart  of  stale  bread,  free  of  crust,  two  large 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  some  salt 
and  pepper. 

After  washing  the  veal,  put  it  on  the  stove  with  the 
cold  water  j  and  when  the  water  begins  to  boil,  skim  it 
carefully,  and  set  back  where  it  will  boil  only  gently. 
After  the  meat  has  been  cooked  for  three  hours,  put  the 
butter  into  a  small  frying-pan  with  the  onion,  turnip,  and 
carrot,  all  cut  fine,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  draw  the  vegetables  to  the  side  of  the  pan,  press 
the  butter  from  them,  and  transfer  them  to  the  soup-pot. 
Put  the  flour  with  the  butter  remaining  in  the  frying- 
pan,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy,  but 
not  till  it  is  brown ;  then  add  to  the  contents  of  the  ket- 
tle. Add  also  the  bread,  nutmeg,  one  table-spoonful  and 
a  half  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  the 
soup  slowly  for  two  hours  more ;  then  remove  it  from 
the  fire,  and  press  through  a  colander.  The  veal,  of 
course,  will  not  pass  through,  but  all  the  rest  should.  It 
should  then  be  returned  to  the  kettle,  and  the  quart  of 
milk,  heated  to  the  boiling-point,  should  be  added.  When 
the  soup  boils  up  it  will  be  ready  for  serving. 

Garbure  a  la  Printanidre. 

This  is  a  variety  of  vegetable  soup  which  is  very  popu- 
lar in  France.  For  six  or  eight  persons  use  three  quarts 
of  cold  water,  four  or  five  pounds  of  the  upper  part  of 
the  round  of  beef,  two  onions,  a  quart  of  fine-shred  cab- 
bage, one  pint  each  of  carrots  and  turnips,  and  half  a 
pint  of  celery,  cut  into  dice,  one  pint  of  peas,  if  they  be 
in  season,  two  young  leeks,  four  cloves,  the  crust  of  a 
good-sized  loaf  of  bread,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 


138          MISS  PARLOA-'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  two  of  salt,  and  three  of 
butter. 

After  putting  the  beef,  in  one  solid  piece,  into  the 
soup-pot,  and  adding  the  cold  water,  set  the  soup-pot 
where  its  contents  will  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point. 
Skim  the  liquid  carefully,  and  set  back  where  it  will  re- 
main at  the  boiling-point  temperature  for  five  hours. 
When  three  hours  have  passed,  pare  one  of  the  onions, 
and  placing  it  in  an  old  saucer,  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven 
until  it  turns  a  delicate  brown,  — say  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes.  Put  the  onion  into  the  soup-pot,  and  also  put 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  the  carrot,  of  the  turnip,  of  the 
celery,  and  of  the  salt,  as  well  as  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
the  pepper.  Cover  the  kettle,  and  cook  the  contents  for 
an  hour  and  a  half. 

At  the  end  of  the  hour  cut  the  bread  crust  into  pieces 
about  two  inches  square,  and  after  spreading  them  in  a 
pan,  put  them  into  a  moderate  oven  to  dry.  Now  put 
the  cabbage  into  a  stew-pan  with  one  pint  of  boiling 
water.  Cover  the  pan,  and  set  where  the  contents  will 
boil  gently.  Next  put  the  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
add  the  remaining  carrots,  turnips,  and  celery,  and  the 
onion,  cut  fine.  Shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes ;  then  add  the  sugar.  Cover,  and  cook  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  stirring  frequently,  and  being  careful 
not  to  brown  the  vegetables. 

At  the  end  of  the  half-hour  turn  the  cabbage  into  a 
strainer,  and  pour  cold  water  over  it.  Drain  the  cabbage 
well,  and  add  it,  with  the  peas,  to  the  vegetables  in  the 
stew-pan.  Add,  also,  a  quart  of  broth  from  the  soup-pot, 
besides  the  remaining  salt  and  pepper.  Cover,  and  cook 
slowly  for  one  hour. 

When  the  vegetables  have  been  cooking  for  half  an 
hour  in  the  stock,  spread  the  crust  of  bread  on  the  bot- 
tom and  sides  of  a  deep  dish,  and  moisten  them  with  a 
generous  pint  of  broth  from  the  soup-pot,  taking  the 
broth  from  the  top,  so  as  to  get  as  much  fat  as  possible. 


SOUPS.  139 


Set  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  for  half  an 
hour.  On  taking  it  from  the  oven  at  the  end  of  this  time, 
pour  the  vegetables  and  their  broth  over  the  bread  crusts. 
Strain  the  broth  from  the  soup-pot  into  the  tureen,  and 
serve  at  once. 

The  mode  of  serving  this  is  to  put  some  of  the  vegeta- 
bles and  the  bread  in  each  soup  plate,  and  then  turn  a 
ladle  of  soup  into  the  dish. 

The  meat  may  be  served  in  a  separate  course.  There 
should  be  a  good  brown  sauce  or  a  Mayonnaise  sauce  to 
go  with  it. 

Spring  Soup. 

This  differs  only  slightly  from  ordinary  Julienne  soup. 
The  carrots  and  turnips  should  be  cut  into  little  balls 
with  a  vegetable-cutter,  and  the  string-beans  and  shell- 
beans  should  be  cut  into  small  cubes.  Any  vegetable  or 
any  green  salad  may  be  used  in  the  soup.  The  French 
word  printaniere  is  used  more  commonly  on  bills  of  fare 
to  describe  this  soup  than  the  English  word  "Spring." 
One  finds  under  various  fine  names  dozens  of  soups  that 
vary  only  in  the  slightest  degree.  This  is  the  case  with 
a  great  many  soups  made  of  clear  stock ;  the  change  of 
a  single  ingredient  often  being  sufficient  cause  for  a 
change  of  name. 

Carrot  Soup. 

For  this  light  summer  soup  there  will  be  needed  a 
quart  of  grated  carrot,  which  gives  it  the  flavor  and 
color,  and  two  quarts  of  stock,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  two  of  flour,  one  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  an  onion,  and  a  pint  of  milk  or -cream. 

Wash,  scrape,  and  grate  enough  carrots  to  fill  a  quart 
measure,  and  turn  into  a  soup-pot  with  the  stock,  onion, 
salt,  and  pepper.  Heat  to  the  boiling-point,  and  set  back 
where  the  soup  will  simply  simmer  for  one  hour.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  put  the  butter  into  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the 


140          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

mixture  until  it  gets  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then  add  to 
the  contents  of  the  soup-pot.  Boil  for  ten  minutes. 
Pour  the  soup  into  a  line  sieve,  and  after  removing  the 
onion,  rub  as  much  of  the  carrot  as  possible  through  the 
sieve.  Return  the  strained  mixture  to  the  soup-pot,  and 
add  the  milk  or  cream.  Boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

It  adds  to  the  appearance  and  flavor  of  the  soup  to 
stir  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  into  the  cold  cream  or 
milk  before  turning  it  into  the  soup-pot.  But  if  eggs  be 
used,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  soup  from 
boiling  after  the  addition  is  made.  Simply  allow  it  to 
get  hot,  for  boiling  would  curdle  the  eggs  and  mar  the 
appearance  of  the  dish. 

Pur£e  of  Carrots. 

For  this  soup  use  one  quart  of  the  red  part  of  the 
carrot,  grated,  one  quart  of  white  stock,  one  quart  of 
milk,  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  one  pint  of  stale  bread, 
free  of  crust,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Put  the  grated  carrot,  the  pint  of  boiling  water,  the 
butter  and  sugar  into  a  stew-pan,  and  after  covering 
closely,  let  them  simmer  for  one  hour ;  then  add  the 
bread  and  stock,  and  cook  for  an  hour  longer.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  take  the  pan  from  the  stove,  and  rub  its 
contents  first  through  a  puree  sieve,  and  then  through  a 
fine  French  sieve.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper ;  and  after 
reserving  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  add  the  remainder, 
which  should  be  hot.  Eeturn  the  soup  to  the  fire,  and 
let  it  boil  up  once ;  then  add  the  egg  yolks,  after  beating 
them  in  the  cold  milk  that  was.  set  aside.  Cook  for  one 
minute,  stirring  all  the  while,  and  serve  immediately 
afterward. 

With  the  materials  given  in  this  receipt,  two  quarts 
of  soup  may  be  made,  —  enough  for  ten  or  twelve 
persons. 


80UPS.  141 


*  Tomato  Soup. 

Put  a  gallon  of  water  into  the  soup-pot,  and  add  to  it 
the  bones  and  gristle  left  from  a  roast  of  mutton  or  any 
other  roast.  Boil  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  two 
quarts  ;  then  strain,  and  set  in  a  cool  place.  At  the  end 
of  an  hour  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  return  the  stock  to 
the  soup-pot,  adding  to  it  a  can  of  tomatoes,  four  cloves, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  grain  of  cayenne.  Put  on  to  boil.  In  the  mean  time 
put  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  frying-pan, 
and  when  it  has  become  melted,  add  an  onion,  two  slices 
of  carrot,  two  of  turnip,  and  four  stalks  of  celery,  all 
cut  fine.  Cook  slowly  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then 
draw  the  vegetables  to  the  side  of  the  pan,  and  after 
pressing  the  butter  from  them,  put  them  into  the  soup. 
Into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  frying-pan  put  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and 
frothy;  then  add  to  the  soup,  being  careful  to  scrape 
every  particle  of  the  mixture  out  of  the  pan.  Let  the 
soup  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Taste,  to  ascertain 
whether  there  is  enough  seasoning.  Strain,  and  serve 
with  fried  bread. 

Two  quarts  of  stock  may  be  substituted  for  the  bones 
and  water. 

*  Green-Corn-and-Tomato  Soup. 

This  requires  two  pounds  of  the  neck  of  beef,  a  quart  of 
sliced  tomatoes,  a  quart  of  corn  sliced  from  the  cob,  three 
pints  of  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  of  flour, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Put  the  meat  and 
water  into  a  soup-pot,  and  as  soon  as  the  liquor  begins 
to  boil,  skim  it  carefully.  Simmer  for  three  hours ;  then 
add  the  tomato  and  the  corn-cobs.  Cook  for  half  an 
hour ;  then  strain  into  another  kettle,  and  add  the  corn, 
the  flour  and  butter  mixed  together,  and  enough  salt  and 
pepper  to  season  well.  Cook  forty  minutes  longer. 


142          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Macaroni-and-Tomato  Soup. 

The  materials  required  are  two  pounds  of  the  neck 
of  beef,  three  quarts  of  water,  one  pint  of  stewed 
tomato,  one  pint  of  macaroni  broken  into  two-inch 
pieces,  an  onion,  two  cloves,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  half 
a  cupful  of  corn-starch,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
about  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

Have  the  meat  perfectly  clean  and  broken  into  small 
pieces.  Put  it  into  a  soup-pot  with  the  cold  water,  and 
heat  it  slowly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  skim  carefully, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add 
the  onion,  parsley,  and  clove,  and  cook  for  an  hour  longer. 
After  skimming  off  all  fat  from  the  soup,  mix  the  corn- 
starch  with  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into  the 
soup.  Now  add  the  tomato,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  cook 
gently  for  half  an  hour  longer.  Wash  the  macaroni  in 
cold  water,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  quart  of 
boiling  water.  Boil  rapidly  for  twenty  minutes;  then 
turn  the  macaroni  into  a  colander,  and  pour  a  quart  of 
cold  water  over  it.  Strain  the  soup,  and  return  it  to 
the  kettle ;  then  add  the  macaroni,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  toasted  bread  with  the  soup. 

*  Rice-and-Tomato  Soup. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  one  can  of  tomato,  one- 
third  of  a  cupful  of  rice,  a  large  onion,  a  large  slice  of 
carrot,  a  quart  of  water,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Cut  the  onion  and  carrot  very  fine,  and  put  them  into 
a  small  frying-pan,  with  the  butter.  Cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Put  the  tomato  and  a  quart  of  water 
into  a  stew-pan,  and  heat  until  the  liquid  boils  up. 
When  the  vegetables  have  been  cooked  for  twenty  min- 
utes, skim  them  from  the  butter,  and  add  them  to  the 


SOUPS.  143 


tomato  and  water.  Put  the  flour  with  the  butter  re- 
maining in  the  pan,  and  cook  until  smooth  and  frothy, 
stirring  all  the  while ;  then  add  to  the  mixture  in  the 
stew-pan,  and  set  this  pan  where  its  contents  will  simmer 
for  half  an  hour. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  put  it  into  the  soup-pot.  When 
the  tomato  mixture  has  been  cooked  for  half  an  hour, 
rub  it  through  a  sieve,  pressing  everything  through 
except  the  seeds  and  skins.  Pour  the  strained  mixture 
over  the  rice.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  set  the 
soup-pot  where  its  contents  will  cook  slowly  for  an 
hour.  Stir  the  soup  several  times  to  prevent  the  rice 
from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  kettle.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Puree  of  Tomatoes. 

To  make  soup  enough  for  eight  or  ten  persons,  use  one 
can  of  tomatoes,  three  pints  of  stock,  one  ounce  of  ham. 
a  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  of  chopped  carrot 
a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  clove,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
two  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  three  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  pint  of 
stale  bread,  free  of  crust. 

Put  the  tomato,  ham,  parsley,  and  clove  on  to  boil. 
Put  the  butter  and  vegetables  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  skim  the  vegetables 
from  the  butter,  and  add  them  to  the  tomato.  Stir  the 
flour  into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  and  cook  until 
smooth  and  frothy,  stirring  all  the  while.  Add  this  mix- 
ture, with  the  salt  and  pepper,  to  the  tomato,  and  cook 
for  forty  minutes. 

Let  the  bread  and  stock  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 
Strain  the  tomato  mixture  over  this  liquid,  and  then 
rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  fire, 
and  let  it  boil  up  once  ;  and  after  tasting,  to  make  sure 
that  it  is  properly  seasoned,  serve  at  once. 

: 


144          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


Pur6e  of  Spinach. 

In  making  this  soup  there  will  be  used  half  a  peck  of 
spinach,  a  quart  of  stock,  a  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  the  same  quantity 
of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  some  salt  and 
pepper. 

Wash  the  spinach  until  there  is  no  sand  visible,  and 
put  it  into  a  stew-pan  without  water.  Cover  closely, 
and  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Take  up,  chop  very  fine, 
and  pound  to  a  paste ;  then  rub  through  a  puree  sieve. 
Put  the  butter  and  flour  into  a  stew-pan,  and  stir  until 
the  mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  add  the  spinach, 
sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  stir  for  ten  minutes.  Grad- 
ually add  the  stock;  and  when  the  mixture  begins  to 
boil,  add  the  hot  milk  and  cream.  Boil  up  once,  and  re- 
move and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  fire  ; 
and  when  the  puree  begins  to  boil  again,  serve  with  fried 
or  toasted  bread. 

Pur6e  of  Cauliflower. 

For  this  soup  there  will  be  required  one  good-sized 
cauliflower,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  small  onion,  a  stalk  of  celery,  a  bay 
leaf,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  white  stock,  — 
say  chicken  stock,  —  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

After  ridding  the  cauliflower  of  its  green  leaves,  let  it 
soak,  head  down,  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  for  two  hours ; 
then  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  with  one  table-spoonful  of  salt 
and  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and  boil  gently  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Drain  off  all  the  water,  and  after 
taking  from  the  cauliflower  enough  little  flowerets  to 
make  a  scant  pint,  chop  and  pound  the  remainder. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  stew-pan ;  and  when  it  becomes 
melted,  add  the  onion  and  celery,  cut  fine,  and  the  bay 


SOUPS.  145 


leaf.  Cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes;  then  remove  the 
leaf  and  put  in  the  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy  ; 
and  after  adding  the  mashed  cauliflower,  sugar,  salt,  and 
pepper,  stir  the  mixture  ^over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes, 
being  watchful  to  prevent  it  from  browning.  Rub  through 
a  sieve,  and  return  to  the  stew-pan.  Stir  until  hot ;  then 
gradually  add  the  stock.  When  the  soup  has  been  heated 
to  the  boiling-point,  add  the  milk  and  cream,  which  should 
be  hot,  but  not  boiling.  Let  the  puree  bubble  for  a  min- 
ute ;  then  rub  through  a  sieve  for  the  second  time,  and 
return  it  to  the  fire.  Add  the  flowerets,  boil  up  once, 
and  serve. 

Do  not  be  deterred  by  these  long  directions  from  mak- 
ing the  soup,  for  the  work  is  not  difficult. 

Bisque  of  Mutton. 

Provide  for  this  soup  three  pounds  of  the  neck  of  mut- 
ton, two  quarts  of  water,  one  quart  of  milk,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  rice,  a  cupful  of  stewed  tomatoes,  two  slices  of 
carrot,  an  onion,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter. 

See  that  the  meat  is  perfectly  clean  and  free  of  fat. 
Put  it  into  a  soup-pot  with  the  rice,  vegetables,  and  cold 
water,  and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  When  the 
liquid  begins  to  boil,  skim  it  carefully ;  then  cover  the 
soup-pot  closely,  and  set  back  where  its  contents  will 
cook  gently  for  four  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add 
the  butter  and  flour,  mixed  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  the 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  quart  of  milk  on  the  stove  in 
a  double-boiler ;  and  as  soon  as  it  gets  boiling  hot,  pour  it 
into  the  kettle.  Strain  the  soup  immediately,  and  the 
work  will  be  finished. 

The  bones  and  hard  bits  left  from  a  roast  of  mutton, 
veal,  or  beef  may  be  used  for  this  soup,  which  should 
then  be  given  the  name  of  the  meat  taken  for  its  foun- 
dation. 


146          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Bisque  of  Beef. 

Use  three  pounds  of  the  lower  part  of  a  leg  of  beef 
(have  the  butcher  cut  it  into  small  pieces),  three  quarts 
of  cold  water,  one  pint  of  milk,  a  scant  half-cupful  of 
rice,  half  a  pint  of  strained  tomato,  a  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  the  meat  and  bone  into  the  soup-pot  with  the  cold 
water,  and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point;  then  skim 
the  liquor  carefully,  and  set  the  soup-pot  back  where  its 
contents  will  only  simmer  during  the  next  five  hours. 
At  the  expiration  of  that  time  strain  the  liquor,  and  free 
it  of  fat ;  then  return  it  to  the  soup-pot.  Wash  the  rice 
thoroughly,  and  after  adding  it  to  the  bisque,  cook  for 
half  an  hour ;  then  put  in  the  milk  and  seasoning,  and 
boil  up  once.  The  addition  of  the  tomato  completes  the 
work. 

*  Scotch  Broth. 

From  about  two  pounds  of  the  neck  of  mutton  remove 
all  fat  and  bone.  Put  the  bone  into  a  stew-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  water,  and  simmer  for  one  hour.  Cut  the  lean 
mutton  into  cubes,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a 
scant  half-teacupful  of  well-washed  pearl  barley,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  each  of  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and 
celery,  all  cut  fine.  Strain  the  water  from  the  bones  on 
this  preparation,  and  place  where  the  broth  will  simmer 
for  three  hours.  When  it  begins  to  bubble,  skim  it,  and 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  level  table-spoon- 
ful of  salt.  At  the  end  of  the  three  hours  put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  place  it  on 
the  fire.  As  soon  as  the  butter  becomes  hot,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth 
and  frothy.  Stir  this  into  the  broth,  add  the  minced 
parsley,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer. 

This  is  such  a  substantial  soup  that  it  should  be  served 
for  luncheon,  or  when  the  main  part  of  the  dinner  is  light. 


SOUPS.  147 


If  the  amount  of  salt  and  pepper  given  be  insufficient, 
add  more. 

Cream-of-Cauliflower  Soup. 

Carefully  wash  a  good-sized  cauliflower,  and  putting 
it  into  a  kettle  that  will  hold  little  beside  it,  cover  with 
boiling  chicken  stock,  and  boil  slowly  for  thirty-five  min- 
utes. Boil  together  for  twenty  minutes  a  quart  of  milk 
and  a  large  onion.  When  the  cauliflower  has  been  cooked 
for  the  prescribed  time,  take  it  up,  and  after  putting  aside 
a  quarter  of  it,  mash  the  remainder  fine  in  a  wooden 
bowl,  using  a  vegetable-masher.  Eeturn  this  part  to 
the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled  (there  should  not  be 
more  than  a  quart),  and  add  the  milk  in  which  the  onion 
was  cooked,  as  well  as  the  slightest '  grating  of  nutmeg. 
Strain  the  mixture  into  the  double-boiler,  and  return 
to  the  fire.  Mix  three  large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
with  three  of  flour,  and  stir  into  the  soup.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Break  into  little  pieces  the  quarter 
of  the  cauliflower  which  was  reserved,  and  add  to  the 
soup.  With  ten  minutes'  more  cooking,  the  dish  will 
be  finished. 

Cream-of-Macaroni  Soup. 

Break  up  fine,  and  then  wash,  half  a  cupful  of  maca- 
roni, and  put  it  into  the  soup-pot  with  a  quart  of  chicken 
stock,  a  quarter  of  an  onion,  a  small  slice  of  carrot,  a 
stalk  of  celery,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon,  and  a  slight 
grating  of  nutmeg.  Cover,  and  cook  very  slowly  for 
two  hours.  Tie  together  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf, 
a  leaf  of  sage,  and  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  allow  the  bunch 
to  remain  in  the  soup-pot  for  five  minutes.  Rub  the 
soup  through  a  puree  sieve  (one  of  coarse  wire,  some- 
times called  a  squash  sieve,  may  be  used) ;  then  add 
one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper  and  a  heaping 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  rub  through  the  sieve  again. 
Return  to  the  double-boiler,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour, 


148          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


At  the  end  of  that  time  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become  hot,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy, 
being  careful  that  it  does  not  become  brown,  and  then 
stir  into  the  soup.  Add  a  pint  of  cream  that  has  been 
heated  to  the  boiling-point.  Beat  together  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  cold  milk,  and  stir  this  mixture 
into  the  soup.  Serve  immediately. 

This  soup  should  not  be  allowed  to  boil  after  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  have  been  added.  As  salt  and  pepper  vary 
in  strength,  more  may  be  required  than  the  quantities 
stated  above.  Just  before  stirring  in  the  egg  mixture, 
taste  the  soup ;  and  if  more  seasoning  be  needed,  add 
it  then. 

*  Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

For  three  quarts  of  soup  there  will  be  required  two 
pounds  of  the  neck  or  shin  of  beef  or  veal  or  of  the 
neck  of  mutton,  an  onion,  two  slices  of  carrot,  a  stalk  of 
celery,  when  it  may  be  obtained,  half  a  cupful  of  rice, 
two  quarts  and  a  pint  of  water,  a  quart  of  milk,  a  gener- 
ous table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  two  cloves,  and  a  small  piece 
of  stick  cinnamon. 

Be  careful  that  the  meat  is  perfectly  sweet  and  clean, 
and  rid  it  of  all  its  fat.  After  cutting  it  into  small 
pieces  and  putting  it  into  a  good-sized  stew-pan,  pour 
the  cold  water  upon  it.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling- 
point;  then  skim,  cover  closely  again,  and  set  back 
where  the  water  will  boil  slowly  for  four  hours.  At 
the  end  of  three  hours  add  the  vegetables  and  spice. 

Wash  the  half-cupful  of  rice  carefully,  and  put  it  into 
a  deep  stew-pan.  Strain  upon  it  the  liquor  from  the 
meat,  when  it  has  cooked  four  hours,  and  set  the  stew- 
pan  where  the  soup  will  simmer  for  an  hour  and  a  half; 
then  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  strain  the  soup  through 
a  fine  sieve,  rubbing  every  particle  of  rice  through  the 


SOUPS.  149 


meshes.  Return  the  mixture  to  the  stew-pan,  and  put  it 
back  on  the  fire.  Heat  the  quart  of  milk  to  the  boiling- 
point,  in  a  double-boiler  (so  as  to  prevent  burning),  and 
add  it  to  the  soup.  Add  also  the  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

Cream-of-tapioca  and  cream-of-sago  soups  may  be  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way,  only  the  soup  should  not  be 
strained  after  the  sago  or  tapioca  has  been  added,  the 
first  straining  being  sufficient. 

*  Cream-of-Barley  Soup. 

This  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  cream-of-rice  soup, 
only  the  barley  must  be  cooked  for  four  hours.  If  it 
be  one's  custom  to  have  an  early  dinner,  or  if  the  soup 
is  to  be  served  at  luncheon,  it  will  be  well  to  prepare 
the  stock  the  previous  day. 

Cream-of-Bread  Soup. 

The  directions  for  cream-of-rice  soup  should  be  fol- 
lowed, save  that  two  quarts  of  broken  bread  should  be 
substituted  for  the  half-cupful  of  rice.  It  should  be 
cooked  in  the  stock  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  the 
soup  should  be  finished  like  the  first  one.  The  bread 
used  must  be  yeast  bread,  at  least  two  days  old ;  it  should 
be  broken  into  pieces  about  half  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg, 
and  be  measured  lightly.  This  soup  is  a  very  smooth 
and  nice  one. 

Two  quarts  and  half  a  pint  of  any  kind  of  stock,  if 
you  have  it,  will  do  for  these  soups.  All  the  trimmings, 
bones,  and  gristle  left  from  broils  or  a  roast  may  be  used 
to  produce  stock.  The  water  in  which  poultry  or  mut- 
ton has  been  boiled  will  answer  very  well.  Of  course  the 
richer  the  stock,  the  more  nutritious  the  soup  will  be. 

Peas,  asparagus,  cauliflower,  carrots,  celery,  and  pota- 
toes all  make  the  most  delicious  cream  soups,  with  or 
without  stock  for  a  foundation.  When  one  has  cream 


150          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

to  spare,  it  is  advisable  to  put  it  into  a  soup ;  for  half  a 
pint,  costing  perhaps  ten  cents,  will  add  fifty  per  cent 
to  the  flavor. 

*  Tapioca-and-Milk  Soup. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  half  a  cupful  of  tapioca, 
two  cupfuls  of  water,  three  pints  of  inilk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  of  salt,  one-third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  large  onion,  two  blades 
of  celery,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Wash  the  tapioca,  and  let  it  soak  for  six  hours  or 
more  in  the  two  cupfuls  of  cold  water ;  then  put  it  into 
the  double-boiler,  and  cook  it  for  an  hour.  At  the  end 
of  this  time  put  the  milk  into  another  double-boiler,  and 
set  it  on  the  stove  to  heat.  Now  put  the  butter,  the 
onion,  and  the  celery,  chopped  fine,  into  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes;  then  add  the 
flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Pour  the  con- 
tents of  the  pan  into  the  boiler  of  hot  milk ;  and  after 
adding  the  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  cook  ten  minutes 
longer.  At  the  end  of  this  time  strain  the  milk  mixture 
into  the  boiler  containing  the  tapioca,  and  cook  all  for 
half  an  hour.  Taste  the  soup,  to  be  sure  that  there  is 
seasoning  enough ;  it  may  be  necessary  'to  add  some  salt 
or  pepper. 

Rice,  sago,  and  barley  soup  may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner,  save  that  barley  must  be  cooked  for  five  hours. 

*  Poulette  Soup. 

For  this  soup  use  three  pints  of  milk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  three  each  of  chopped 
onion,  celery,  carrot,  and  turnip,  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  three  level  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  cupful 
of  cream,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs. 

Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler,  with  the 
mace,  parsley,  and  bay  leaf.  Put  the  butter  and  chopped 


SOUPS.  151 


vegetables  in  a  saucepan,  and  let  them  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  brown ; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  becomes 
frothy.  Now  gradually  pour  the  milk  upon  it,  and  cook 
for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  the  double-boiler, 
to  cook  for  half  an  hour. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  cream  to 
them.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  soup,  and  cook  for  one 
minute,  stirring  all  the  time.  Eemove  the  soup  from 
the  fire  immediately,  and  strain  into  a  tureen.  Serve 
with  either  toasted  crackers  or  bread. 

*  Noodle  Soup. 

To  make  the  noodles,  break  a  large  egg  into  a  bowl, 
and  beat  into  it  a  little  more  than  half  a  cupful  of  flour 
and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Now  work  this 
dough  with  the  hands  until  it  becomes  smooth  and  like 
putty.  Sprinkle  a  moulding-board  with  flour,  and  roll 
the  dough  as  thin  as  possible.  It  should  be  like  a  wafer. 
Let  it  lie  upon  the  board  for  five  minutes;  then  roll 
it  up  loosely,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  into  slices 
about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Spread  these  little 
pieces  on  the  board,  and  let  them  dry  for  half  an  hour 
or  more.  Put  on  the  stove  a  large  saucepan  contain- 
ing two  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Add  a  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  after  turning  the  noodles  into  the  water, 
cook  them  rapidly  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Turn  into 
a  colander,  and  drain. 

To  make  the  soup,  use  three  pints  of  milk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  slice  of  onion,  a  bit  of  mace,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Ee serve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  rest, 
with  the  onion  and  mace,  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler. 
Mix  the  flour  and  cold  milk,  and  stir  the  mixture  into 
the  boiling  milk  Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for 


152          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fifteen  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  out  the 
mace  and  onion  and  add  the  noodles.  Five  minutes' 
cooking  will  complete  the  work. 

Cream-of-Artichoke  Soup. 

When  French  artichokes  are  comparatively  cheap  and 
in  fine  condition,  it  is  well  to  use  them  in  soup  as  well 
as  a  vegetable.  Here  is  a  simple  rule  for  a  cream  soup 
made  with  them  :  — 

Use  one  quart  of  milk,  two  artichokes  of  good  size, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  generous  table-spoon- 
fuls of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

Wash  the  artichokes,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour 
in  two  quarts  of  cold  water  to  which  has  been  added 
two  table- spoonfuls  of  salt.  If  the  edges  of  the  leaves 
be  dry  or  brown,  cut  them  (the  edges)  off.  At  the  end 
of  the  two  hours  place  the  artichokes  in  a  stew-pan  with 
boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  boil  for  thirty- 
five  minutes.  Now  take  from  the  fire,  and  drain.  Pull 
the  leaves  from  the  head;  then  take  out  the  "choke" 
and  throw  it  away.  Put  the  leaves  and  the  bottoms  of 
the  artichokes  in  a  puree  sieve,  and  rub  all  the  soft  parts 
through.  Add  the  strained  artichokes  to  a  cream  foun- 
dation, and  after  boiling  the  soup  up  once,  serve. 

This  is  the  way  to  make  the  cream  foundation  to  which 
reference  has  just  been  made :  When  the  artichokes 
have  been  cooking  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  put  the  milk 
on  the  fire  in  the  double-boiler.  Beat  the  butter  and 
flour  together,  and  gradually  pour  upon  this  mixture 
about  half  a  pint  of  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  this  new 
mixture  into  the  milk  remaining  in  the  double-boiler. 
Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  The 
cream  will  then  be  ready  for  the  artichokes. 

This  soup  is  sometimes  garnished  with  chicken  force- 
meat balls  or  with  profiteroles.  Indeed,  the  latter  arti- 


SOUPS.  153 


cles  are  becoming  quite  popular  as  an  accompaniment  of 
cream  soups  as  well  as  of  consomme. 


*  Palestine  Soup. 

For  one  quart  of  soup  use  enough  Jerusalem  artichokes 
to  make  a  generous  pint  when  pared  and  sliced,  one  gen- 
erous pint  of  milk,  one  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  two  of  flour. 

Scrape  the  artichokes,  and  put  them  in  cold  water. 
When  they  all  have  been  scraped,  slice  them,  and  place 
them  in  another  basin  of  cold  water.  Let  them  stand 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  quar- 
ter. At  the  end  of  that  time  rub  the  artichokes  through 
a  fine  sieve  ;  then  add  to  them  one  pint  of  the  water  in 
which  they  were  boiled.  Set  upon  the  stove,  and  heat  to 
the  boiling-point.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  mixture.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in 
a  double-boiler ;  and  when  the  soup  has  cooked  for  ten 
minutes,  add  the  hot  milk  to  it,  and  boil  up  once.  Serve 
with  toasted  bread. 

Unless  the  artichokes  be  kept  in  water  until  they  are 
cooked  they  will  grow  dark,  and  spoil  the  appearance  of 
the  soup. 

Imperial  Soup. 

If  enough  be  wanted  for  six  persons,  use  one  quart  of 
chicken  stock,  one  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  stale 
bread,  free  of  crust,  half  the  breast  of  a  fowl,  one  level 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  two  of 
butter,  two  of  sherry,  one  of  brandy,  one  bay  leaf,  one 
clove,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bit  of  cinna- 
mon and  of  mace,  a  table-spoonful  each  of  carrot,  onion, 
and  celery,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs. 


I 

* 

154          MISS   PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Clean  the  fowl,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water.  About 
three  quarts  will  be  needed.  Heat  it  slowly  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, and  skim  carefully ;  then  set  back  where  the 
meat  will  simply  be  simmered  until  tender. 

On  removing  the  fowl,  boil  the  water  rapidly  until 
there  is  but  a  little  less  than  two  quarts  left.  Strain 
this,tand  set  away  to  cool ;  and  when  it  is  cool,  skim  off 
all  the  fat.  Put  a  quart  of  this  stock  in  a  stew-pan  with 
the  stale  bread,  and  cook  for  one  hour,  being  careful  not 
to  let  it  boil. 

Put  the  butter  and  vegetables  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Pains  must  be  taken  to 
prevent  them  from  getting  browned.  At  the  end  of  the 
twenty  minutes  skim  out  the  vegetables,  and  put  them  in 
a  muslin  bag  with  the  herbs  and  spice.  Tie  the  bag,  and 
put  it  in  the  stew-pan  with  the  stock  and  bread. 

Add  the  flour  to  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  and 
stir  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  stir  into  the  mixture 
in  the  stew-pan.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  continue 
cooking  the  stock  until  the  hour  expires. 

Meanwhile  chop  the  breast  of  the  cooked  chicken,  and 
pound  it  to  a  powder.  Take  the  bag  of  seasonings  from 
the  soup,  and  add  the  powdered  meat.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes,  and  then  rub  through  two  sieves,  —  the  second 
being  a  French  fine  sieve.  Put  the  strained  mixture 
into  a  double-boiler,  with  three  gills  of  hot  cream,  and 
after  covering,  cook  for  five  minutes. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  light,  and  add  to  them 
a  gill  of  cold  cream.  Stir  this  liquid  into  the  soup,  and 
cook  for  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  while;  then  take 
the  soup  from  the  fire,  add  the  brandy  and  wine,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Not  everybody  would  like  the  flavors  of  the  wine  and 
liquor.  They  are  not  essential  to  the  success  of  the 
soup.  People  who  are  fond  of  berrapin  will,  however, 
consider  the  soup  as  much  improved  if  these  last  two 
ingredients  be  used. 


SOUPS.  155 

— 


Velvet  Soup. 

At  one  time  it  was  fashionable  to  serve  only  clear  soups 
at  company  dinners  or  luncheons;  but  opinions  on  the 
subject  have  changed,  and  now  delicate  cream  soups  and 
bisques  are  considered  better.  For  velvet  soup  you  will 
require  a  fowl  weighing  about  five  pounds,  three  pints 
of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  blanched  almonds,  a  generous 
pint  of  stale  bread,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of 
flour,  three  stalks  of  celery,  a  slice  of  carrot,  an  onion, 
two  bay  leaves,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  a  small 
piece  of  cinnamon,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  table-spoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  two 
generous  quarts  of  water. 

After  cleaning  the  fowl,  place  it  in  a  small  stew-pan, 
breast  down.  Pour  in  the  water ;  and  when  it  has  been 
heated  to  the  boiling-point,  skim  carefully,  and  set  the 
pan  back  where  the  water  will  simply  simmer  until  the 
meat  is  tender,  —  say  for  two  hours.  When  the  cooking 
is  over,  take  up  the  fowl,  and  skim  all  the  fat  from  the 
water.  Strain  the  water  through  an  old  napkin  into  a 
clean  stew-pan,  and  put  with  it  the  stale  bread  and  the 
vegetables  and  spice,  tied  loosely  in  a  small  piece  of 
thin  muslin.  Simmer  for  one  hour.  Meanwhile  free 
the  breast  of  the  fowl  of  skin,  fat,  and  bones ;  and  after 
chopping  it  fine,  pound  it  to  powder  with  a  vegetable- 
masher.  Put  aside  for  the  present.  Blanch  the  almonds, 
and  pound  them  to  powder  in  a  mortar,  adding,  in  small 
quantities  from  time  to  time,  half  a  cupful  of  cream 
taken  from  the  three  pints. 

When  the  chicken  stock  has  simmered  for  an  hour, 
take  it  from  the  fire ;  and  after  removing  the  muslin  and 
its  contents,  rub  the  stock  and  bread  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Add  the  salt,  pepper,  almonds,  powdered  breast  of  the 
fowl,  and  the  cream.  Place  on  the  fire ;  and  as  soon  as 
the  mixture  boils  up,  add  the  flour  and  butter,  rubbed 
together  until  creamy.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  and  rub 


156          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

through  a  French  fine  sieve.  Serve  with  chicken  force- 
meat balls. 

This  soup  may  be  begun  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
served.  But  the  almonds  and  creain  should  not  be 
added.  Stop  when  reaching  that  point.  Let  your  meas- 
uring of  salt  and  pepper  be  generous. 

Those  parts  of  the  fowl  not  needed  for  the  soup  may 
be  used  for  croquettes,  a  fricassee,  blanquettes,  or  salad. 

Pur6e  of  Grouse. 

The  ingredients  are :  a  grouse,  a  quart  of  beef  stock, 
three  pints  of  water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of 
flour,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  rice,  an  onion,  a  lemon, 
two  stalks  of  celery,  a  bay  leaf,  two  cloves,  and  some 
salt  and  pepper. 

Eoast  the  bird  for  half  an  hour.  Take  all  the  meat 
from  the  bones,  and  after  removing  the  skin  and  fat, 
chop  it  fine,  and  pound  to  powder.  Set  away  for  a  while, 
and,  putting  the  bones  into  a  stew-pan  containing  three 
pints  of  water,  simmer  for  three  hours.  There  should 
be  a  quart  of  liquor  at  the  end  of  that  time.  Strain  it, 
and  return  it  to  the  stew-pan. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  put  it  into  a  small  stew-pan  with 
one  cupful  and  a  half  of  the  beef  stock,  to  cook  slowly 
for  an  hour,  — the  pan  being  covered  closely  all  the  time. 
Rub  the  rice  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  to  the  powdered 
grouse. 

Put  the  butter,  vegetables,  bay  leaf,  and  spice  into  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
draw  the  pan  forward  to  a  place  where  the  heat  is 
greater.  Add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  gets  brown. 
Gradually  add  the  remainder  of  the  stock,  and  after 
boiling  for  five  minutes,  strain  into  the  dish  containing 
the  water  in  which  the  bones  of  the  grouse  were 
simmered. 

Put  the  rice  and  grouse  into  a  stew-pan,  and  after 
adding  the  salt  and  pepper,  stir  over  the  fire  for  eight 


SOUPS.  157 


minutes.  Add  the  seasoned  and  thickened  stock,  a  little 
at  a  time.  Heat  the  puree  to  the  boiling-point,  and  rub 
it  through  a  sieve ;  then  heat  it  again,  and  serve  with  or 
without  force-meat  balls,  as  suits  your  fancy.  After  the 
soup  has  been  put  into  the  tureen,  add  the  lemon,  sliced 
very  thin. 

Potato  Soup. 

For  six  persons  use  half  a  dozen  large  potatoes,  one 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  half  a  pint  of  chopped 
celery,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  heaping  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cream,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sherry. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Boil  for  half  an 
hour.  When  the  potatoes  are  put  on  to  boil,  put  the 
celery,  onion,  and  a  pint  of  milk  on  to  boil  in  the  double- 
boiler.  Mix  the  half-pint  of  cold  milk  with  the  flour, 
and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk. 

Five  minutes  before  the  potatoes  are  done,  put  the 
cream  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  place  this  on  the  fire  in 
a  larger  saucepan  containing  a  little  boiling  water. 

Drain  all  the  water  from  the  potatoes,  and  mash  them 
until  they  are  smooth  and  light.  Gradually  add  the 
boiling  milk  and  vegetables,  beating  constantly.  Now 
add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and.  strain  the  mixture  into 
the  double-boiler,  rubbing  as  much  as  possible  through 
the  strainer.  Place  over  the  fire,  and  after  adding  the 
butter,  cook  for  five  minutes.  Now  add  the  hot  cream, 
and  turn  the  soup  into  the  tureen  at  once.  Stir  in  the 
sherry,  and  serve  immediately. 

The  wine  may  be  omitted. 

*  Corn  Soup. 

Use  one  can  of  corn,  one  quart  and  two  gills  of  milk, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  gen- 


158          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

erous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of  minced  onion,  and  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs. 

Put  the  corn  into  a  wooden  bowl  or  chopping-tray,  and 
mash  it  as  fine  as  possible.  Now  put  it  in  the  double- 
boiler,  with  one  quart  of  milk,  and  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

Put  the  butter  and  onion  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Now  add  the  flour,  and 
cook  until  the  mixture  is  frothy,  being  careful  not  to 
brown.  Stir  this  into  the  corn  and  milk.  Now  add  the 
salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer.  At 
the  end  of  this  time  rub  the  soup  through  a  strainer,  and 
return  to  the  fire. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add  to  them  the 
half -pint  of  cold  milk.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  soup, 
and  cook  for  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  while. 

Chestnut  Soup. 

Use  fifty  French  chestnuts,  two  quarts  of  stock,  one 
pint  of  stale  bread,  free  of  crust,  one  pint  of  milk  or 
cream,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  one  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Blanch  the  chestnuts,  and  then  boil  them  for  half  an 
hour  in  plenty  of  water.  Drain  off  the  water,  and  pound 
the  chestnuts  in  a  mortar  until  a  fine  meal  is  produced. 
To  this  gradually  add  one  quart  of  the  stock,  pounding 
all  the  while.  Bub  this  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Now  put  the  strained  mixture  and  all  the  other  ingre- 
dients, except  the  butter  and  milk,  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
place  on  the  fire.  Cook  gently  for  two  hours.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  take  from  the  fire,  and  rub  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Add  the  butter  and  milk,  and  return  to  the 
fire.  Heat  to  the  boiling-point,  stirring  constantly. 
Taste,  to  see  if  seasoned  enough.  Possibly  it  may  be 
well  to  add  some  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  at  once. 


SOUPS.  159 


*  Fish  Chowder. 

Almost  any  kind  of  fish  may  be  used  for  a  chowder, 
but  nothing  is  quite  equal  to  cod  or  haddock  when  either 
may  be  had  fresh.  White  fish  is  always  preferable  to 
any  dark  fish.  For  a  chowder  for  six  persons  use  a  fish 
weighing  four  pounds,  a  quart  of  pared  and  thin-sliced 
potatoes,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  two  good- 
sized  onions,  half  a  dozen  crackers  (Boston  butter  crack- 
ers are  best,  though  any  kind  of  plain  crackers  will  do), 
two  quarts  of  water,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste,  —  perhaps 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Put  the  potatoes  into  a  large  stew-pan  with  one  quart 
of  the  cold  water,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  After 
freeing  the  fish  of  skin  and  bones,  cut  it  into  small 
pieces.  Spread  these  upon  a  platter,  and  dredge  them 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  the  pork  into  bits,  and  cook 
in  a  frying-pan  until  brown ;  then  add  the  onion,  sliced 
very  thin,  and  fry  slowly  until  it  turns  light  brown. 
Spread  the  pork  and  onion  on  the  fish,  and  cover  until 
ready  for  use.  Stir  the  flour  into  the  fat  remaining  in 
the  frying-pan,  and  cook  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then 
gradually  add  the  milk,  and  boil  up  once. 

By  this  time  the  potatoes  will  probably  have  boiled 
ten  minutes.  If  not,  wait  until  they  are  cooked,  and 
then  add  the  fish,  pork,  and  onion  to  them.  Add,  also, 
the  second  quart  of  water,  boiling  hot,  and  cook  for 
three  minutes;  then  turn  the  thickened  milk  from  the 
frying-pan  into  the  stew-pan.  Split  the  crackers,  and 
put  them  into  a  tureen.  Let  the  chowder  boil  up  once, 
and  after  satisfying  yourself  that  it  is  sufficiently  sea- 
soned, turn  it  into  the  tureen. 

In  case  it  be  inconvenient  to  get  milk  for  the  chowder, 
use  an  extra,  but  scant,  pint  of  water.  If  one  choose, 
the  potatoes,  fish,  onion,  and  pork  all  may  be  prepared 


160          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

some  time  in  advance  of  the  cooking,  which,  in  that  case, 
will  take  only  about  twenty  minutes.  The  potatoes 
must  be  covered  with  cold  water,  and  the  fish  be  kept  in 
a  cold  place  until  the  time  for  cooking. 

*Clam  Chowder. 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  clams  or  thirty  of 
good  size,  one  pint  and  a  half  of  thin-sliced  potatoes, 
three  pints  of  water,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  large  onion, 
three  ounces  of  fat  salt  pork,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
one  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  six  Boston  crackers. 

Wash  the  clams  in  the  cold  water,  and  turn  both  water 
and  clams  into  a  colander  that  has  been  placed  over  a 
bowl.  Now  cut  the  soft  parts  of  the  clams  from  the  hard, 
and  put  them  away  in  a  cold  place.  Chop  the  hard  parts 
rather  fine,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan.  Strain  through 
a  napkin  the  water  in  which  the  clams  were  washed,  and 
add  it  to  the  chopped  parts.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 

Now  cut  the  pork  in  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  add  the  onion,  cut  fine,  and  cook  for  ten 
minutes  longer,  stirring  frequently,  that  it  may  not 
burn. 

When  the  onions  have  been  cooked  for  ten  minutes, 
take  them,  and  also  the  pork,  from  the  pan,  and  add  both 
to  the  chopped  clams  and  water.  Cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Into  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan  put  the  flour,  and  stir 
until  smooth  and  frothy.  Add  this  mixture  also  to  the 
clain  broth.  Now  put  the  sliced  potatoes  into  the  soup- 
pot,  and  sprinkle  in  the  salt  and  pepper.  Strain  over 
the  chowder  the  liquor  in  which  the  clams  and  other 
ingredients  were  cooked,  and  place  the  kettle  on  the 
fire.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes. 

Split  the  crackers,  and  soak  them  in  the  cold  milk  for 
one  minute.  Now  add  the  soft  .parts  of  the  clams  and 


SOUPS.  161 


the  crackers  and  milk  to  the  contents  of   the  soup-pot. 
Let  all  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

The  milk  may  be  omitted,  and  one  pint  of  strained 
tomatoes  be  substituted  for  it.  In  this  case  add  the 
tomatoes  when  the  broth  and  potatoes  have  been  cooking 
for  ten  minutes,  and  cook  twenty  minutes  longer.  Soak 
the  crackers  in  water  for  half  a  minute ;  then  drain 
them  well,  and  add  them,  together  with  the  soft  parts 
of  the  clams,  to  the  chowder.  Cook  for  five  minutes 
longer. 

*  Cut  the  black  heads  from  a  quart  of  clams,  and  boil 
them  gently  in  three  pints  of  water  for  twenty  minutes. 
Cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork  into  slices,  and  fry 
until  brown  and  crisp ;  then  add  a  large  onion,  cut  into 
slices,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Put  a  quart  of 
pared  and  sliced'  raw  potatoes  into  a  soup-kettle,  and 
after  placing  a  strainer  over  them,  pour  the  onion  and 
pork  into  the  strainer  ;  then  pour  in  the  water  in  which 
the  black  parts  of  the  clams  were  cooked.  Remove  the 
strainer,  with  the  pork  and  onion,  —  which  are  of  no 
further  use.  Heat  the  mixture  in  the  kettle  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, and  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  mixed 
with  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  After  boiling  gently  for 
twenty  minutes,  add  a  quart  of  milk  that  has  boiled  up 
once,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  eight  soft  crackers,  the 
soft  parts  of  the  clams,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the 
taste.  Boil  up  the  chowder  once,  and  serve. 

In  cooking  clams  in  any  manner,  remember  that  they 
are  toughened  by  long  cooking. 

*  Danbury  Clam  Chowder. 

Use  for  six  persons  one  quart  of  clams,  one  pint  of 
canned  tomatoes  (or  one  quart  of  fresh  tomatoes),  one 
quart  of  sliced  potatoes,  one  pint  of  sliced  onions,  one 
pint  of  water,  half  a  teaspoonful  each  of  powdered 

11 


162          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

thyme,  summer  savory,  and  sweet-marjoram,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  celery  seeds  (or,  when  it  is  convenient  to  get 
fresh  celery,  use  half  a  pint  of  it,  chopped  fine),  one- 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  one  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

Place  a  colander  in  a  basin,  and  turn  the  clams  into  it. 
Now  pour  the  water  over  the  clams,  stirring  well  with 
a  spoon  in  order  to  make  the  washing  a  thorough  one. 
Save  the  clam  liquor  and  water  that  fall  into  the  basin. 
Chop  the  clams  rather  fine,  and  put  them  in  a  cool  place 
until  the  time  for  cooking. 

Cut  the  pork  in  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly  for  ten 
minutes.  Add  the  sliced  onion  to  the  pork,  and  cook  on 
a  hotter  part  of  the  stove  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  fre- 
quently. The  onions  should  be  tender,  but  not  browned, 
at  the  end  of  the  ten  minutes.  Turn  the  pork  and  onions 
jnto  a  stew-pan,  and  add  to  them  the  clam  juice  and  water, 
the  potatoes,  tomatoes,  and  the  celery,  if  that  is  to  be 
used.  Cook  for  thirty  minutes ;  then  add  the  seasoning 
and  chopped  clams,  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer.  Taste, 
to  be  sure  that  there  is  seasoning  enough;  and  if  no 
seasoning  be  required,  serve  the  chowder. 

This  is  a  very  savory  dish.  When  it  is  served  in  a 
dinner,  it  is  well  to  have  the  meat  or  fish  in  the  next 
course  simple  and  light. 

*Clam  Soup. 

These  are  the  ingredients :  a  quart  of  clams,  a  quart 
of  milk,  a  pint  of  water,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
three  of  flour,  four  of  cracker  crumbs,  and  small  quan- 
tities of  salt  and  pepper,  for  seasoning.  Separate  the 
heads  from  the  clams,  and  put  them  on  to  simmer  for 
half  an  hour  in  the  pint  of  water.  Chop  the  soft  part  of 
the  clams,  and  put  aside  temporarily.  Bub  the  butter 
and  flour  together,  and  stir  in  the  water  in  which  the 
heads  of  the  clams  are  boiling ;  then  add  the  milk,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  after  allowing  the  soup  to  boil  up  once, 


SOUPS.  163 


strain  it  upon  the  chopped  clams.  Keturn  it  to  the  fire, 
and  boil  for  three  minutes ;  and  after  adding  the  cracker 
crumbs,  serve. 

Wadsworth  Clam  Soup. 

Use  twenty-five  clams,  three  pints  of  cold  water,  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  about  a 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt. 

Wash  the  clams,  and  then  chop  them.  Put  them  in  a 
stew-pan  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  them  simmer  for 
three  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  rub  the  flour  and 
butter  together,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling 
clams.  Cook  for  five  minutes.  Put  the  milk  on  to  heat 
in  the  double-boiler.  Strain  the  clam  liquor  into  the 
milk,  and  add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  cold  cream  to  them.  Stir  this 
into  the  mixture  in  the  double-boiler,  and  cook  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Serve  at  once. 

Cream  of  Clams. 

Use  about  fifty  large,  soft  clams,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  three  pints  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cream,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  slice  of  onion,  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

After  washing  the  clams,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan, 
covering  it  closely,  and  simmer  for  three  minutes ;  then 
strain  off  the  liquor  and  put  it  aside.  Pound  the  clams 
in  a  mortar  or  a  wooden  bowl,  and  rub  through  a  sieve 
as  much  of  the  mass  as  possible.  Add  to  it  the  liquor. 
Put  the  milk  and  onion  on  the  stove  in  a  double- 
boiler.  Rub  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  cream,  and  add 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  hot  milk.  Stir  this  mixture 
into  the  boiling  milk,  and  after  skimming  out  the  onion, 
add  the  nutmeg,  salt,  "and  pepper.  Cook  for  five  min- 


164          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

utes ;  then  add  the  pint  of  cream  and  the  sifted  clams 
and  clam  liquor,  and  cook  five  minutes  more.  Serve 
without  delay. 

Bisque  of  Clams. 

Chop  a  quart  of  clams  rather  fine,  and  putting  them 
into  the  soup-pot  with  a  quart  of  chicken  stock,  simmer 
for  an  hour.  Cut  an  onion  fine,  and  put  it  into  a  small 
frying-pan  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Cook 
slowly  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to 
brown ;  then  draw  the  onion  to  the  side  of  the  pan,  and 
after  pressing  out  all  the  butter,  put  the  onion  into  the 
soup-pot  with  the  clams.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  small  frying-pan, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then  stir  this  mixture 
into  the  soup.  Add  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper.  Simmer 
for  ten  minutes ;  then  remove  the  herbs  and  spice,  and 
rub  the  soup  through  a  puree  sieve.  Return  to  the  soup- 
pot,  and  heat  to  the  boiling-point.  Add  a  pint  of  cream ; 
and  when  the  bisque  has  been  once  again  heated  to  the 
boiling-point,  put  it  back  until  serving-time.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  thoroughly,  and  add  a  pint  of  cold 
cream  to  them.  Draw  the  soup  forward,  and  let  it  boil. 
Stir  the  new  mixture  into  it,  and  cook  for  two  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Taste,  to  be  sure  that  there  is 
enough  seasoning ;  and  if  there  be  not  enough,  add  salt 
and  pepper.  Serve  immediately. 

This  soup  must  not  boil  after  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
are  added.  Toasted  crackers  or  toasted  bread  may  be 
served  with  it,  but  it  is  so  delicate  that  the  accompani- 
ments should  be  prepared  very  carefully,  or  omitted. 

Crab-and-Tomato  Bisque. 

Use  for  this  soup  one  quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of 
cooked  and  strained  tomatoes,  half  a  pint  of  crab  meat, 


SOUPS.  165 


two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  of  butter,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a 
scant  half-teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Put  the  milk,  except  half  a  cupful,  on  the  stove  in  a 
double-boiler.  Mix  the  cold  milk  with  the  flour,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  milk.  Cook  for  ten  minutes. 

Put  the  tomatoes  on  to  cook  in  a  saucepan.  When 
they  have  been  boiling  for  five  minutes,  stir  in  the  soda ; 
and  continue  stirring  until  there  is  no  froth  on  the  vege- 
table. Strain  the  tomatoes,  and  add  to  them  the  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper.  Add  the  crab  meat  to  the  mixture 
of  milk  and  flour,  and  after  cooking  for  three  minutes, 
stir  the  contents  of  the  double-boiler  into  the  stew-pan. 
Serve  at  once. 

When  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  fresh  crab  meat, 
canned  meat  may  be  taken  instead. 

Crab  Bisque. 

* 

For  eight  persons  use  eighteen  hard-shell  crabs,  one 
quart  of  chicken  or  veal  stock,  one  quart  of  cream,  one 
pint  of  stale  bread,  free  of  crust,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  of  flour,  one  small  slice  of  carrot,  one  large 
slice  of  onion,  two  bay  leaves,  one  stalk  of  celery,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper, 
one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Put  half  of  the  meat  of  the  crabs  and  all  of  the  claws 
into  a  stew-pan.  Add  the  spice,  vegetables,  herbs,  and 
half  the  stock,  and  place  the  pan  where  its  contents  will 
simmer  gently  for  forty  minutes.  Ten  minutes  later 
put  the  bread  and  the  remaining  stock  into  another 
stew-pan,  and  set  the  pan  where  its  contents  will  simmer 
gently  for  thirty  minutes. 

When  the  first  mixture  has  cooked  for  the  proper 
period,  strain  it  over  that  in  the  second  stew-pan.  Mix 


166          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

all  these  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  rub  through  a  tine 
sieve.  Return  to  the  fire,  and  add  the  butter  and  flour, 
rubbed  together.  Cook  five  minutes  longer;  then  add 
the  cream,  heated  in  a  double-boiler,  the  remainder  of 
the  crab  meat,  and  the  salt  and  pepper.  Let  the  soup 
boil  up  once,  and  serve  without  delay.  If  one  choose,  a 
table-spoonful  of  brandy  and  three  of  sherry  may  be 
added  to  the  bisque  after  it  is  taken  from  the  stove. 

A  table-spoonful  of  lobster  coral  and  the  shells  of  two 
crabs  may  be  pounded  with  a  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
and  cooked  with  the  crabs  to  give  the  bisque  a  fine 
color. 

Lobster  Bisque. 

For  this  soup  there  will  be  required  a  lobster  weigh- 
ing five  pounds,  one  pint  and  a  half  of  chicken  stock, 
one  quart  of  cream,  one  scant  pint  of  stale  bread,  free  of 
crust,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
cayenne,  one  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  one  blade  of 
celery,  a  large  slice  of  onion,  a  small  piece  of  whole 
mace,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  and  one  of  flour. 

Remove  the  meat  of  the  lobster  from  the  shell.  Cut 
in  cubes  the  tenderest  part  of  the  meat  taken  from  the 
claws,  —  there  should  be  about  half  a  pint,  —  and  put 
away  until  serving-time.  Pound  the  remainder  to  paste. 
Now  put  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  four  of  the  small 
claws,  and  the  coral  from  the  lobster  into  the  mortar, 
and  pound  until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed.  Hard  pound- 
ing will  be  required  to  accomplish  this.  Put  the  pounded 
meat  and  the  coral,  shell,  and  butter  in  a  stew-pan  with 
the  herbs,  mace,  vegetables,  and  half  the  stock,  and  cook 
for  an  hour,  being  careful  that  the  mixture  does  not  bub- 
ble after  it  has  once  been  heated  to  the  boiling-point, 
though  it  should  still  be  kept  on  the  stove,  in  a  cooler 
place,  and  kept  heated  almost  to  the  boiling-point. 


SOUPS.  167 


At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  put  the  bread  and  the  re- 
maining stock  in  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes, 
keeping  at  the  boiling-point  all  the  while;  then  strain 
the  contents  of  the  first  stew-pan  into  the  stew-pan  re- 
maining on  the  stove,  pressing  every  particle  of  moisture 
from  the  meat  and  seasoning.  Eub  this  new  mixture 
through  a  French  fine  sieve ;  then  return  it  to  the  fire, 
and  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 
Hub  the  remaining  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  with 
the  flour  until  a  smooth,  light  mixture  is  formed,  and 
stir  this  into  the  soup.  Simmer  for  ten  minutes. 

When  the  butter  and  flour  are  added  to  the  soup,  put 
the  cream  on  the  stove  in  the  double-boiler.  It  will  be 
hot  at  the  end  of  the  ten  minutes ;  add  it,  with  the  cubes 
of  lobster,  to  the  soup.  Let  the  soup  boil  up  once,  and 
serve  it. 

When  making  this  bisque,  if  there  be  no  coral  in  the 
lobster,  pound  six  of  the  small  claws  to  powder,  and  mix 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Use  this  to  give  the 
soup  a  pink  color.  Or,  in  the  absence  of  coral,  the  color 
may  be  imparted  by  adding  to  the  bisque,  just  as  it  is  to 
be.  served,  half  a  cupful  of  strained  hot  tomato. 

Bisque  of  Oysters. 

Use  one  quart  of  oysters,  one  quart  of  cream,  one  pint 
of  chicken  stock,  one  scant  pint  of  stale  bread,  free  of 
crust,  one  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  one  stalk  of  cel- 
ery, one  small  slice  of  onion,  a  bit  of  mace,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one-tenth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  salt  to  suit  the  taste. 

Chop  the  oysters,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  the 
seasonings,  one-half  the  stock,  and  their  own  liquor. 
Cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 

Put  the  bread  and  the  remaining  half-pint  of  stock  in 
another  stew-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 


168          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Strain  the  liquor  from  the  first  stew-pan  into  the  second 
pan,  pressing  all  the  liquid  from  the  oysters.  Cook  for 
ten  minutes  longer. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  cream,  and  put  the  rest 
on  to  heat  in  the  double-boiler.  Now  rub  the  butter  and 
flour  together  until  smooth  and  creamy.  When  the  con- 
tents of  the  stew-pan  have  been  cooking  for  ten  minutes, 
rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve  and  return  them  to  the 
stew-pan.  Add  the  flour  and  butter  to  them,  and  place 
on  the  fire.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils;  then  add 
the  hot  cream,  and  draw  back  to  a  cooler  place.  Now 
beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  cold  cream 
to  them.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  bisque,  and  cook  for 
one  minute,  stirring  all  the  while. 

When  the  cream  is  rich,  use  half  cream  and  half  milk. 
The  egg  yolks  may  be  omitted;  the  soup  will,  however, 
be  less  rich  without  them.  This  is  one  of  the  most  deli- 
cious soups  made. 

*  Oyster  Soup. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  one  quart  of  oysters,  one 
quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cold  water,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  flour,  four  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  a  piece  of  onion  the  size  of  half  a  dollar,  a  bit  of 
mace,  and  salt  to  suit  the  taste. 

Put  a  colander  over  a  bowl,  and  turn  the  oysters  into  it. 
Now  pour  the  water  over  the  oysters,  and  stir  with  a 
spoon  until  all  the  liquid  has  passed  into  the  bowl.  Put 
the  oysters  into  a  bowl,  and  set  away  in  a  cold  place. 
Pour  the  water  and  oyster  liquor  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
heat  slowly,  being  careful  to  avoid  scorching.  When  the 
liquid  comes  to  the  boiling-point,  skim  carefully,  and 
set  back  where  it  will  keep  hot. 

At  the  same  time  that  the  oyster  liquor  and  water  are 
put  on  to  heat,  put  the  onion,  mace,  and  all  the  milk, 
except  half  a  pint,  on  the  fire  in  the  double-boiler.  Mix 


SOUPS.  169 


the  cold  milk  with  the  flour,  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
milk.     Cook  for  fifteen  minutes. 

Now  take  out  the  onion  and  mace.  Draw  the  oyster 
water  forward  where  it  will  boil  up  once  j  then  add  it  to 
the  thickened  milk.  Now  add  the  oysters,  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Boil  up  once,  and  serve  immediately. 


170          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


FISH. 

FRESH  fish  requires  careful  handling  and  cooking. 
Nothing  is  poorer  or  more  unappetizing  than  a  piece  of 
fish  that  is  prepared  carelessly ;  but  a  dish  of  fresh  fish, 
well  cooked,  and  served  with  a  good  sauce,  is  always 
welcome. 

Market  men  usually  scale  and  draw  the  fish,  but  the 
cook  should  always  scrape  around  the  head  and  tail,  to 
remove  a  few  scales  that  will  invariably  be  found  there. 
The  blood  and  dark  substance  that  are  found  on  the 
backbone  must  be  scraped  off.  If  the  fish  is  to  be 
boiled  or  baked,  leave  the  head  and  tail  on,  but  cut  the 
fins  from  the  body.  A  pair  of  fish  scissors,  kept  for  this 
purpose,  will  be  found  a  great  convenience.  Wash  the 
fish  quickly  in  cold  water,  and  then  wipe  it  carefully. 
It  will  then  be  ready  to  prepare  for  cooking. 

Fish  that  live  a  good  part  of  the  time  at  the  bottom  of 
lakes  or  rivers  are  likely  to  have  a  muddy  taste,  which 
can  be  removed  by  soaking  for  several  hours  in  salted 
water.  Fish  that  have  a  rather  strong  flavor,  like  sword- 
fish  and  sturgeon,  also  are  made  more  delicate  by  soak- 
ing for  a  few  hours  in  salted  water. 

In  boiling  fish  the  water  should  always  be  salted,  and, 
when  possible,  made  acid  with  lemon  juice.  The  acid 
whitens  the  flakes  of  the  fish  and  makes  them  firm,  be- 
sides giving  the  fish  a  good  flavor.  Lemon  juice  can  be 
used  to  advantage  with  any  kind  of  fish,  no  matter 
how  cooked. 

In  boiling  fish  a  few  things  must  be  remembered. 
First,  if  the  fish  be  put  into  cold  water  the  juices  will  be 
drawn  out,  thus  impoverishing  the  fish.  But  many  kinds 


FISH.  |    171 

of  fish  have  such  delicate  skin  that  it  contracts  and 
breaks  as  soon  as  it  is  plunged  into  hot  water,  thus  mar- 
ring the  appearance  of  the  dish.  For  these  kinds  of  fish 
the  water  should  be  of  a  temperature  not  higher  than 
150°.  A  good  plan  is  to  put  into  the  fish-kettle  half  as 
much  cold  water  as  will  be  required ;  then  put  the  fish 
in,  and  gradually  add  boiling  water  enough  to  cover.  By 
this  method  the  skin  will  be  made  to  contract  slowly, 
and  it  will  not  break.  Mackerel,  trout,  striped  bass,  etc., 
should  be  treated  in  this  manner  if  they  are  to  be  served 
with  the  skin  on.  Fish  that  have  a  thick,  tough  skin 
can  be  put  into  water  that  is  at  the  boiling-point,  though 
not  bubbling.  Halibut,  sturgeon,  or  any  fish  that  is  not 
to  be  served  with  the  skin  on  is  better  for  being  put 
into  boiling  water. 

When  boiling  fish,  the  water  should  never  be  allowed 
to  do  more  than  bubble.  Rapid  boiling  breaks  the  fish, 
thus  making  it  unsightly. 

Too  much  cooking  makes  the  fibres  dry  and  woolly; 
but  fish  should  be  cooked  enough  to  have  the  flakes 
separate  readily. 

When  baking  fish,  remember  that  constant  basting  is 
essential  to  the  success  of  the  dish.  Use  plenty  of  salt 
when  basting. 

When  breading  fish  for  frying,  be  very  generous  with 
salt. 

Fish  that  have  extremely  delicate  flesh — like  white 
fish  —  should  be  cooked  only  in  the  simplest  manner. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  fillet  a  white  fish,  and  indeed 
it  seems  almost  shameful  to  attempt  to  improve  any- 
thing so  delicate  and  fine  in  itself. 

The  lighter  the  fish,  the  greater  the  variety  of  modes 
by  which  it  may  be  cooked.  It  also  may  be  served  more 
frequently  without  one's  becoming  tired  of  it.  For  exam- 
ple, at  the  Isles  of  Shoals  visitors  are  offered  broiled 
scrod  every  day  in  the  week,  yet  they  do  not  weary  of 
the  dish  in  a  stay  of  months.  At  Nantucket  broiled 


172          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

bluefish  is  served  daily,  and  it  is  so  delicious  that  its 
appearance  three  times  a  day  is  at  first  hailed  with 
pleasure;  but  after  a  few  weeks  the  appetite  becomes 
palled,  because  the  fish  is  rich.  It  would  be  the  same 
with  the  freshest  and  most  toothsome  salmon  and  mack- 
erel. A  rich  fish  satiates  much  sooner  than  a  lighter 
and  poorer  kind,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  advisable  to 
avoid  having  the  richer  varieties  frequently.  Of  course, 
the  poorer  kinds  require  more  and  richer  sauces  than 
salmon,  mackerel,  or  bluefish.  White  fish,  like  cod,  had- 
dock, cusk,  halibut,  and  flounders,  all  are  improved  by 
the  addition  of  sauces  made  of  milk,  cream,  or  white 
stock. 

Serving  Fish. 

Long,  narrow  dishes  are  used  for  long,  slender  fish. 
The  fish  may  be  slipped  on  to  the  warm  dish;  or  a 
napkin,  folded  the  length  and  width  of  the  fish,  may  be 
placed  on  the  dish  and  the  fish  be  laid  upon  this.  Only 
boiled  or  fried  fish  is  served  on  a  napkin. 

When  the  dish  is  large  enough,  a  sauce  is  poured 
around  the  fish  (no  napkin  being  used  in  that  case),  and 
the  head  and  tail  may  then  be  garnished  with  parsley. 

When  a  sauce  is  poured  around  fish,  it  must  be  rather 
thicker  for  a  boiled  fish  than  for  any  other  kind. 

Fillets  of  fish,  when  rolled,  may  be  arranged  in  a 
circle  on  the  dish,  and  the  sauce  be  poured  in  the  centre ; 
when  flat,  they  may  be  heaped  in  a  pyramid  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish,  or  may  be  arranged  in  a  circle,  one 
fillet  overlapping  the  other.  The  centre  should  then  be 
filled  with  a  sauce  or  a  garnish. 

How  to  Fillet  Fish. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  fish  (the  flat  and  the  round) 
that  are  used  in  preparing  fillets.  The  flat  fish,  such  as 
flounder,  turbot,  chicken  halibut,  etc.,  have  one  large 
flat  bone  which  extends  the  entire  length  and  breadth. 


FISH.  178 

The  fins  are  on  both  sides,  from  head  to  tail.  In 
the  round  fish,  such  as  bass,  cod,  salmon,  trout,  etc.,  the 
large  bone  does  not  extend  the  entire  breadth,  and  the 
fins  are  placed  variously  on  the  different  kinds  of  fish. 
In  these  fish  there  is  always  found  a  thin  and  fat  piece 
of  flesh  on  each  side,  near  the  head,  extending  about 
one-third  the  length  of  the  body.  This  is  called  the 
flank.  Now,  in  most  fish  this  flank  is  thin  and  the  skin 
delicate,  so  that  the  flank  may  easily  be  cut  from  the 
fish,  and  when  the  fin  bones  are  removed  the  fillets  are 
ready  to  be  breaded  and  fried. 

Let  it  now  be   supposed  that 
a  round  fish  is  to  be  filleted.     In 
order  to  do  the  work  successfully 
one  should  have  a  small   sharp 
knife,  commonly  called  a  boning- 
knife;    or   a 
sharp    vegeta- 
ble-knife   will 
answer.      Lay 
the  fish  flat  on 
a    board     that  Drawing  the  Skin  from  a  Fish, 

has  been  placed 

on  a  table.  Cut  off  the  flanks.  Next  cut  through  the 
skin,  beginning  at  the  head  and  continuing  down  by  the 
fins  on  the  back  to  the  end  of  the  tail ;  then  cut  on 
the  other  side  from  the  tail  up  to  where  the  flanks 
were  cut  off.  Begin  to  draw  the  skin  from  the  fish, 
starting  at  the  head  and  drawing  gently  and  firmly 
toward  the  tail.  It  will  almost  always  tear  off  smoothly. 
Turn  the  fish  over,  and  skin  the  other  side  in  the 
same  manner.  Cut  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  beginning 
at  the  head,  and  working  the  knife  between  the  bones 
and  the  flesh  from  the  head  down  to  the  tail  and  round 
on  the  other  side  to  the  head.  If  the  knife  has  been 
kept  close  to  the  bone,  the  flesh  will  come  off  in  one 
piece,  leaving  the  bone  almost  perfectly  clean.  Turn 


174          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  fish  over,  and  fillet  the  other  side  in  the  same 
manner.  You  will  now  have  two  fillets,  which,  if  large, 
may  each  be  divided  into  two  or  four  smaller  pieces. 


Fillets  of  Fish. 

Flat  fish  are  skinned  and  filleted  in  much  the  same 
manner.  There  is  this  difference :  the  skin  is  cut 
all  arpund  near  the  fins,  from  head  to  tail  (as  shown  by 
the  dotted  lines  in  the  cut  below),  and  on  both  sides. 
There  are  no  flank  pieces  to  cut  off.  A  flat  fish,  no  mat- 


Flounder  and  Turban  of  Flounder. 

ter  how  small,  always  gives  four  fillets,  because  it  is  so 
broad  that  it  is  cut  through  the  centre  lengthwise. 

Fillets  are  often  cut  from  large  fish  like  halibut  and 
salmon.  When  this  is  done  the  large  slices  are  cut  into 
small  strips  about  three  or  four  inches  long  and  two  or 
three  wide. 

Fillets  may  be  served  in  the  form  in  which  they  are 
cut,  or  be  rolled  and  fastened  with  small  skewers  (being 
then  called  turbans),  as  shown  in  the  last  illustration. 


FISH.  175 

Sturgeon. 

Sturgeon  is  abundant  in  the  markets  from  April  to 
September,  and  is  therefore  cheap.  This  fish  is  very 
highly  valued  in  European  countries,  but  from  various 
causes  it  does  not  hold  the  same  place  in  the  estimation 
of  the  people  of  the  United  States.  It  is  a  shark-like 
fish,  with  strong  fins,  but  no  scales.  The  fat  is  yellow, 
the  flesh  a  pale  red,  and  the  flavor  a  little  like  meat. 
The  flank  is  thought  to  resemble  pork,  while  the  mus- 
cular flesh  of  the  back  is  thought  to  taste  like  veal. 
This  fish  requires  more  cooking  than  the  ordinary  kinds, 
and  pork  is  employed  in  its  preparation  almost  as  often 
as  with  veal.  When  sturgeon  forms  a  part  of  a  meal, 
less  meat  will  be  required  than  if  a  lighter  kind  of  fish 
were  used.  A  piece  from  a  fish  of  medium  size  will  be 
found  more  delicate  and  tender  than  a  cut  from  a 
large  sturgeon. 

*  Boiled  Sturgeon. 

Have  a  middle  cut  of  sturgeon,  weighing  about  four 
pounds.  Wash  it  in  salted  water,  and  then  put  it  in  a 
new  basin  of  salted  water  —  one  table-spoonful  of  salt  to 
two  quarts  of  water  —  to  soak  for  twenty  minutes.  Into 
the  fish-kettle  put  one  onion,  six  cloves,  one  large  slice 
of  carrot,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  three  bay  leaves,  four 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
and  two  of  salt.  Let  this  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

Now  take  the  sturgeon  from  the  salted  water,  and  roll 
the  flanks  inside.  Pin  a  broad  band  of  cotton  cloth 
around  the  piece  of  fish  to  keep  the  flanks  in  place. 
Now  put  the  fish  into  the  kettle,  and  cook  gently  for  one 
hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  it  from  the  water, 
and  drain  well.  Take  off  the  band  of  cloth,  and  slip  the 
fish  on  a  warm  dish.  Serve  with  any  good  fish  sauce, 
like  lobster,  anchovy,  egg,  parsley,  or  oyster. 

A  pint  of  wine  is  sometimes  added  to  the  water  in 
which  the  sturgeon  is  boiled. 


176          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Baked  Sturgeon. 

Use  four  pounds  of  sturgeon,  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  pork,  one  table-spoonful  each  of  chopped  carrot,  turnip, 
and  onion,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  lemon 
juice,  two  of  sherry,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  flour  for  basting. 

Wash  the  fish  in  cold  water,  and  let  it  stand  in  clean 
salted  water  for  one  hour. 

Cut  the  pork  in  thin  slices,  and  lay  about  one-third  of 
it  on  a  tin  sheet  that  has  been  placed  in  the  dripping- 
pan.  Sprinkle  the  chopped  vegetables  over  this  pork. 

Take  the  fish  from  the  water,  and  wipe  it  dry. 
Skewer  the  flanks  into  position,  and  then  rub  the  lemon 
juice  and  half  the  salt  and  pepper  into  the  fish.  Now 
put  the  piece  of  fish  on  the  vegetables,  placing  it  on  end, 
so  that  it  resembles  a  fillet  of  beef.  Cover  the  top  with 
the  remainder  of  the  slices  of  pork.  Now  put  it  in 
the  oven,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  without  water  in  the 
pan ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Five  min- 
utes later  begin  to  baste  in  this  manner  :  dip  some  of 
the  gravy  from  the  pan,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish ;  then 
dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Do  this  every 
fifteen  minutes  while  the  fish  is  cooking.  The  water  in 
the  pan  must  be  renewed  frequently. 

When  the  fish  has  been  cooking  for  one  hour,  lift  the 
pork  from  the  top  of  the  fish  and  drop  it  into  the  pan. 
Now  baste  the  fish  with  the  wine,  and  spread  one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  butter  over  it ;  then  dredge  rather 
thickly  with  flour.  Kepeat  this  in  fifteen  minutes. 
Cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer,  and  then  take 
from  the  oven.  The  sturgeon  should  be  a  rich  brown 
color.  Slip  the  fish  on  to  a  warm  dish,  and  place  where 
it  will  keep  warm  while  the  sauce  is  being  made. 

To  Make  the  Sauce.  —  Take  the  tin  sheet  and  the  slices 
of  pork  from  the  pan  in  which  the  fish  was  cooked. 
Now  add  enough  boiling  water  to  make  one  pint  of  sauce, 


FISH.  177 


and  place  the  pan  on  the  top  of  the  range.  Mix  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 
Gradually  add  this  to  the  boiling  liquid,  stirring  all  the 
time  until  the  mixture  is  about  as  thick  as  cream.  Now 
taste,  to  see  if  it  is  seasoned  enough.  Add  more  salt,  if 
any  be  needed.  If  any  fat  should  float  on  top,  skim  it 
off.  Strain,  and  serve  with  the  fish. 

Sturgeon  may  be  cut  into  steaks  and  broiled  ;  or  be  cut 
into  small  cutlets  and  breaded  and  fried,  the  same  as 
other  fish. 

*  Boiled  Red  Snapper. 

The  flesh  of  this  fish  is  very  firm,  and  is  more  suitable 
for  boiling  and  baking  than  for  any  other  form  of  cook- 
ing. Tastes  differ  as  to  whether  or  not  the  fins  should 
be  cut  off.  If  you  decide  to  have  them  cut,  let  the 
marketman  do  the  work,  as  the  bones  of  the  fins  are 
large,  sharp,  and  strong. 

Have  the  fish  opened  only  enough  to  admit  of  its 
being  drawn  readily.  See  that  all  the  scales  are  off,  and 
wash  it  quickly  in  cold  water.  Have  enough  boiling 
water  in  the  fish-kettle  to  cover  the  fish.  Add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  two  of  salt,  and  one  of 
vinegar  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Draw  the  kettle  back 
where  the  water  will  stop  boiling,  and  add  one  pint  of 
cold  water ;  then  lower  the  fish  into  it.  Now  push  the 
kettle  forward  where  the  water  will  boil.  Watch  care- 
fully, and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  draw  the  kettle  back 
where  the  water  will  only  bubble.  Cook,  counting  from 
this  time,  for  half  an  hour,  if  the  fish  does  not  weigh 
more  than  six  pounds  ;  but  if  it  be  heavier,  cook  for  ten 
minutes  longer. 

Now  lift  the  fish  from  the  water,  and  drain  well.  Slip 
on  to  a  warm  dish,  and  serve  at  once  with  either  lobster, 
anchovy,  or  Hollandaise  sauce  ;  or  indeed,  any  simple  fish 
sauce  will  answer. 


178          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Baked  Red  Snapper. 

"For  a  red  snapper  weighing  five  pounds,  use  one  pint 
of  oysters,  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  cracker  crumbs, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  and  flour  for  dredging. 

Chop  the  oysters  very  fine ;  then  add  to  them  the 
powdered  cracker,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
one  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  the  parsley.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and  let  the 
mixture  stand  until  the  fish  is  ready.  Now  cut  the  fins 
from  the  fish,  and  see  that  there  are  no  scales  left  on. 
Wash  quickly  in  cold  water. 

Kub  one  table-spoonful  of  the  salt  into  the  fish,  and 
then  pack  the  stuffing  into  the  vent.  Fasten  the  open- 
ing with  steel  skewers,  or  sew  it  together. 

Have  a  flat  tin  sheet  well  buttered,  and  place  it, 
buttered  side  up,  in  a  large  dripping-pan.  Lay  the  fish 
on  this,  and  dredge  lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour. 
Pour  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  the  pan,  and  place 
in  a  hot  oven. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
place  on  the  fire.  When  the  butter  becomes  hot,  add 
the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  is  brown.  Now  draw  the  pan 
back,  and  gradually  add  one  pint  of  cold  water.  Let 
this  boil  for  five  minutes,  and  turn  it  into  a  small  basin 
and  keep  it  hot  on  the  back  of  the  range.  This  is  for 
basting  the  fish.  Begin  at  once,  and  use  about  one- 
fourth  of  the  sauce ;  then  dredge  lightly  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  flour.  Baste  again  in  ten  minutes,  and  twice 
more  in  the  next  half-hour.  The  water  in  the  pan  will 
need  renewing  with  every  basting.  It  will  take  the  fish 
one  hour  to  cook.  Serve  with  a  brown  or  Madeira 
sauce.  Any  of  the  simpler  sauces  will  answer,  if  more 
convenient. 


FISH.  179 

*  Baked  Mullet. 

Mullet  frequently  has  an  earthy  taste.  If  it  be 
cleaned,  and  then  soaked  in  acidulated  and  salted  water 
for  one  hour,  the  taste  will  disappear.  Use  a  table- 
spoonful  each  of  salt  and  vinegar  to  each  quart  of  cold 
water.  Make  a  stuffing  the  same  as  for  shad,  and  cook 
in  the  same  manner  as  baked  shad.  A  mullet  weighing 
two  pounds  will  require  only*  one-half  the  amount  of 
stuffing,  and  it  will  cook  in  thirty-five  minutes.  Serve 
with  any  good  sauce. 

Mullet  maybe  split  and  broiled,  the  same  as  mackerel. 

*  Baked  Shad. 

After  cutting  the  shad  only  enough  to  take  out  the  roe, 
and  then  removing  the  roe,  wash  the  fish,  and  fill  the 
body  with  a  dressing  made  by  mixing  thoroughly  the 
following-named  ingredients :  a  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  table-spoonful  of  capers,  one  table-spoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 
After  using  this  dressing,  fasten  the  opening  in  the  fish 
with  a  skewer,  and  dredge  generously  with  salt.  Place 
the  shad  on  a  tin  sheet  that  will  fit  loosely  in  a  large 
dripping-pan,  and  after  putting  this  sheet  into  the  pan, 
rub  soft  butter  over  the  shad,  and  dredge  thickly  with 
flour.  Pour  into  the  pan  just  enough  boiling  water  to 
cover  the  bottom,  and  then  bake  the  fish  in  a  hot  oven  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Baste  every  ten  minutes  with 
the  gravy  in  the  pan  and  a  little  butter,  and  dredge 
lightly  each  time  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  When  the 
fish  is  done,  slip  it  upon  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  brown 
sauce  around  it.  Or,  if  you  prefer,  have  the  sauce  in  a 
separate  dish.  Serve  the  roe  on  a  small  platter,  giving  a 
portion  to  each  person  with  the  fish.  Or,  the  roe  may  be 
saved  for  a  breakfast  dish,  This  is  the  way  to  cook  it : 


180          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Drop  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  twenty 
minutes  ;  then  take  from  the  fire,  and  drain.  Butter  a 
tin  plate,  and  lay  the  drained  roe  upon  it.  Dredge  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  soft  butter  over  it; 
then  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Cook  in  the  oven  for 
half  an  hour,  basting  frequently  with  salt,  pepper,  flour, 
butter,  and  water. 

Brown  sauce  is  made  ijj  this  manner  :  Into  a  saucepan 
put  a  pint  of  water,  a  slice  of  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  beef 
extract.  Cook  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  two  large 
table-spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  mixed  with  one-third  of  a 
cupful  of  cold  water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  then  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and,  as  soon  as  it  is  melted,  strain  the  sauce.  A 
pint  of  clear  soup  may  be  substituted  for  the  water  and 
beef  extract. 

Sheep's-head,  white-fish,  bass,  bluefish,  haddock,  etc., 
all  may  be  stuffed  and  baked  the  same  as  shad. 

*  Broiled  Shad. 

Have  the  shad  split  the  entire  length.  Cut  off  the 
fins,  and  scrape  the  fish  carefully,  to  be  sure  that  there 
are  no  scales  left  on.  Wash  quickly  in  cold  water, 
and  then  wipe  dry.  Rub  the  bars  of  a  double-broiler 
lightly  with  butter,  and  then  place  the  fish  in  it.  Dredge 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Place  over  a  clear  but  not 
fierce  fire,  having  the  inside  turned  to  the  fire  at  first. 
Watch  carefully,  and  turn  frequently  to  prevent  burning. 
A  large,  thick  shad  will  require  twenty-five  minutes' 
cooking.  On  taking  the  broiler  from  the  fire,  let  it  rest 
on  a  dish.  Slip  a  knife  between  the  bars  and  the  fish, 
and  when  one  side  is  loosened,  turn  the  broiler  over, 
and  free  the  other  side.  Now  raise  the  broiler  with  the 
skin  side  of  the  fish  up.  Place  a  warm  platter  upside 
down  over  this,  and  turn  broiler  and  dish  simultaneously. 


FISH.  181 

Lift  the  broiler,  and  the  fish  will  be  found  on  the  centre 
of  the  dish,  ready  for  the  sauce,  which  may  be  simply 
butter;  with  salt  and  pepper,  or  maitre  d'hotel  butter. 
Fish  requires  a  good  deal  of  butter ;  use  four  table- 
spoonfuls  for  a  large  one. 

Shad  is  sometimes  served  with  a  cream  or  Bechamel 
sauce. 

White-fish,  blue  fish,  young  cod  or  haddock,  and,  in 
fact,  all  fish  that  are  broiled,  may  be  treated  in  this 
manner. 

A  very  dry  fish  is  improved  by  a  dressing  of  melted 
butter  or  salad  oil  before  being  broiled. 

*  Boiled  Halibut. 

Pour  into  a  shallow  pan  boiling  water  to  the  depth  of 
one-third  of  an  inch,  and  in  it  lay  a  five-pound  piece  of 
halibut,  the  black  skin  down.  In  two  minutes  remove 
the  fish  from  the  wafer,  and  scrape  the  black  substance 
from  the  skin.  Now  wash  the  fish  in  cold  water,  and 
after  laying  it  on  a  plate,  set  the  plate  in  a  stew-pan  and 
cover  with  boiling  water.  Add  a  table-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar, a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  two  slices  of  carrot,  and  a 
small  onion.  Boil  gently  for  forty  minutes,  and  serve 
with  any  light  fish  sauce. 

*  Baked  Halibut. 

Use  a  piece  of  halibut  weighing  about  four  pounds. 
Into  a  shallow  pan  put  about  a  third  of  an  inch  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  lay  the  fish  in  it,  black-skin  side  down. 
In  about  two  minutes,  remove  from  the  water,  and 
scrape  off  all  the  black  part  of  the  skin;  then  wash 
quickly  in  cold  water.  Place  a  tin  sheet  in  a  dripping- 
pan,  and  lay  the  fish  upon  it.  Score  the  fish  about  half 
an  inch  deep,  and  put  long,  narrow  strips  of  salt  pork 
into  each  cut.  Dredge  well  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  boiling  water,  and 


182          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

bake  the  fish  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  one  hour.  Baste 
every  quarter  of  an  hour  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan  and 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour ;  but  the  last  time  omit  the 
gravy,  and  use  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and 
a  considerable  quantity  of  flour.  This  will  insure  a  rich 
crust.  If  you  wish  a  high  flavor,  put  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig 
of  parsley,  half  an  onion,  and  two  slices  of  carrot  into 
the  dripping-pan  before  you  begin  the  cooking.  A  clove 
of  garlic  may  be  substituted  for  the  onion,  if  you  prefer. 
Either  tomato,  Bechamel,  shrimp,  or  oyster  sauce  is  a 
good  accompaniment. 

Baked  Chicken  Halibut 

The  fish  should  weigh  about  five  pounds.  After  cut- 
ting off  the  fins,  wash  it  in  cold  water,  and  then  dredge 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  a  dressing  of  a  cup- 
ful of  cracker  crumbs,  a  heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  green  .parsley,  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  (obtained  by  peeling  and  grat- 
ing an  onion),  and  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 
Mix  together  all  the  dry  ingredients,  and  then  add  the 
water.  Stuff  the  halibut  with  this  dressing,  and  sew  up 
the  opening.  Have  a  sheet  of  tin  that  will  fit  loosely 
into  a  large  baking-pan.  Butter  it  well,  and  lay  the 
fish  upon  it.  Spread  soft  butter  over  the  fish,  and 
cover  it  with  a  large  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  After 
pouring  about  a  cupful  of  hot  water  into  the  pan,  place 
it  in  the  oven  for  an  hour,  basting  the  halibut  four  times 
during  the  cooking  with  a  mixture  of  a  quarter  of  a 
cupful  of  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  cupful 
of  hot  water.  When  the  hour  has  passed,  remove  the 
buttered  paper,  and,  after  slipping  a  large  fork  under 
the  sheet  of  tin,  lift  the  fish  from  the  pan  on  the  tin. 
Slide  it  carefully  off  upon  a  platter,  and  pour  Hollan- 
daise  or  Bechamel  yellow  sauce  around  it.  Garnish  with 
parsley  and  lemons. 


FISH.  183 


*  Halibut  a  la  Creole. 

Of  fish,  take  a  slice  weighing  about  four  pounds,  and 
use  also  a  pint  of  stewed  or  canned  tomatoes,  a  cupful 
of  water,  a  slice  of  onion,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
three  cloves,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Put  the  tomato,  water,  cloves,  and  onion  on  to  boil. 
Mix  the  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  into  the  sauce  when  it 
boils.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper ;  and  after  cooking  for  ten  minutes, 
rub  through  a  strainer  into  a  bowl.  Pour,  into  a  deep 
plate  boiling  water  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch,  and  lay 
the  fish  in  it  for  half  a  minute,  black-skin  side  down. 
Remove  it  from  the  water,  and  the  black  substance  can 
easily  be  scraped  off.  Wash  the  halibut  in  cold  water, 
and  season  it  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  a  tin 
sheet  in  a  small,  shallow  pan,  and  lay  the  fish  on  it. 
If  you  have  no  sheet,  lay  the  fish  on  the  bottom  of  the 
pan ;  but  this  should  be  avoided  if  possible,  because  the 
fish  cannot  easily  be  removed  whole  after  it  has  been 
cooked.  Pour  into  the  pan  about  half  of  the  tomato 
sauce,  and  then  set  in  a  hot  oven.  Cook  the  fish  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  basting  three  times  with  the 
remainder  of  the  tomato  sauce.  At  serving-time  slide 
the  halibut  from  the  tin  sheet  upon  a  hot  dish,  and  pour 
over  it  the  sauce  remaining  in  the  pan.  Serve  hot. 

*  Broiled  Halibut. 

The  slices  of  halibut  should  be  nearly  an  inch  thick. 
After  seasoning  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  spreading 
very  lightly  with  soft  butter,  and  dredging  with  flour, 
broil  for  twelve  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  spread  on  it.  This  dressing  is  made  by 
beating  together  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of 
lemon  juice,  one  of  chopped  green  parsley,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 


184          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

The  sauce  is  capital  for  any  kind  of  broiled  or  fried  fish 
or  meat. 

Carbonado  of  Halibut  or  White  Fish. 

The  materials  required  are :  two  pounds  of  halibut, 
two  eggs,  almost  a  pint  of  dried  bread-crumbs,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

Skin  the  halibut,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  square  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Put  the  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  and  onion  juice  in  a  deep  plate,  and  set  the 
plate  on  the  back  part  of  the  range,  to  melt  the  butter. 

Beat  the  eggs  in  another  plate  until  light,  and  put  a 
part  of  the  crumbs  in  a  third  plate.  Dip  the  pieces  of 
fish  in  melted  butter,  then  in  the  egg,  and  finally  in  the 
crumbs.  Now  lay  them  in  a  large  dripping-pan  that  has 
been  buttered  on  the  bottom.  When  all  have  been 
properly  treated,  sprinkle  the  remainder  of  the  egg  and 
butter  over  the  carbonades.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  for 
twelve  minutes,  and  serve  with  Hollandaise,  Tartar,  or 
inaltre  d'hotel  sauce. 

Any  fish  from  which  solid  slices  of  flesh  can  be  cut 
may  be  used  for  a  carbonade. 

Baked  Fillets  of  Halibut,  Cream  Sauce. 

Have  three  pounds  of  fresh  halibut  cut  into  thin 
slices.  Remove  the  skin  from  the  slices,  and  then  cut 
them  into  narrow  strips.  Cut  a  large  onion  into  thin 
slices,  and  spread  over  the  fish.  Now  sprinkle  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  season  slightly  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Cover  the  dish  closely,  and  let  it  stand  for  an 
hour  ;  then  remove  the  onion. 

Have  half  a  cupful  of  butter  washed  free  of  salt.  Put 
half  of  this  quantity  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has 
become  hot,  put  in  enough  fish  to  cover  the  bottom  of 


FISH.  185 


the  pan.  Cook  for  three  minutes  on  one  side,  and  then 
turn  and  cook  for  as  many  minutes  on  the  other, 
being  careful  when  turning  not  to  break  the  pieces. 
Take  up  the  fish,  and  place  it  in  a  gratin  dish  or  a  stone- 
china  platter,  arranging  it  neatly  on  the  sides  of  the 
dish,  and  leaving  an  open  space  in  the  centre.  When 
all  the  fish  has  been  fried,  cover  it  with  a  sauce  made  as 
follows  :  — 

Rub  together  in  a  small  saucepan  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  and  three  of  flour.  Add  to  this  mixture  a 
slice  of  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  slight  grating  of  nut- 
meg, a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  one  cupful  and  a 
half  of  white  stock  (water  in  which  a  fowl  has  been 
boiled  will  do).  Simmer  gently  for  thirty  minutes; 
then  add  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 
the  taste.  Boil  up  once,  and  strain. 

Of  course,  when  the  sauce  is  poured  over  the  fish, 
some  of  it  will  flow  into  the  centre  of  the  dish  ;  but  that 
is  not  an  objection.  Place  the  dish  of  fish  and  sauce  in 
the  oven  for  twelve  minutes. 

Boil  a  quart  of  potato  balls  in  clear  water  for  twelve 
minutes  ;  then  drain  off  the  water,  and  season  the  balls 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  When  the  fish  is  taken 
from  the  oven,  pour  the  balls  into  the  centre  of  the  dish, 
and  sprinkle  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  over 
them.  Garnish  the  sides  of  the  dish  with  sprigs  of 
parsley.  Serve  without  delay. 

Fillets  of  Halibut  a  la  Poulette. 

This  is  a  nice  Lenten  dish.  It  requires  three  pounds 
of  halibut,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  two  large  onions,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  small 
quantities  of  flour,  salt,  and  pepper. 

After  freeing  the  fish  of  skin  and  bones,  cut  it  into 
slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  these  into  strips 
about  three  inches  long  and  two  wide.  Sprinkle  with 
lemon  juice,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  lay  a  thin  slice  of 


186          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

onion  upon  each  strip.  Cover  the  fish  with  a  large  dish, 
and  put  away  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
melt  the  butter  in  a  soup-plate,  and  after  removing  the 
onion  from  the  fish,  dip  the  strips  into  the  butter.  Eoll 
them  up,  and  pin  each  piece  with  a  wooden  toothpick ; 
then  dip  them  into  the  butter  once  more,  and  after 
placing  them  in  a  tin  pan,  dredge  thickly  with  flour. 
Bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Meanwhile  cut 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  rings,  and  grate  the  yolks 
through  a  sieve.  When  the  fish  is  cooked,  spread  the 
rolls  upon  a  hot  dish,  remove  the  little  skewers,  and 
pour  white  sauce  into  the  dish.  Sprinkle  the  grated 
yolks  over  the  fish,  and  use  the  whites  for  a  garnish. 

Halibut  au  Gratin. 

Use  a  pint  of  cooked  halibut,  free  of  skin  and  bones,  a 
cupful  and  a  half  of  cream  or  milk,  one  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  two  of  butter,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon ful  of 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  and  eight  table-spoonfuls  of 
grated  bread  crumbs. 

Break  the  fish  into  flakes  with  a  fork,  and  sprinkle 
over  it  half  of  the  pepper  and  one  teaspoonful  of  the 
salt.  Mix  lightly  with  the  fork.  Put  the  milk  or  cream 
in  a  small  saucepan,  and  heat  it  to  the  boiling-point.  Mean- 
while beat  together  the  flour  and  one  table-spoonful  of 
the  butter,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  for  one 
minute ;  then  add  the  onion  juice  and  pepper.  Take 
from  the  fire,  and  put  about  half  a  spoonful  of  the  sauce 
into  each  of  six  escalop  shells.  Now  put  in  a  thin  layer 
of  fish  and  another  layer  of  sauce; 
then  a  second  layer  of  fish  and  still 
another  one  of  sauce.  Finally  sprinkle 
Halibut  in  au  Es-  the  grated  bread  crumbs  over  each 
calop  Shell.  dish>  Melt  the  second  table-spoonful 

of  butter,  and  sprinkle  it  over  the  crumbs.  Place  the 
escalop  shells  in  a  large  pan,  and  put  into  a  rather  hot 


FISH.  187 

oven  for  fifteen  minutes.     Serve  immediately  at  the  end 
of  that  time. 

Halibut  a  la  Maltre  d'H6tel. 

Use  two  slices  of  halibut  weighing  about  three  pounds, 
the  juice  of  one  lemon,  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  and 
one  pint  of  white  stock  or  water. 

Lay  the  slices  of  halibut  in  a  flat  dish,  and  sprinkle 
them  on  one  side  with  one-half  of  the  salt,  pepper, 
lemon  juice,  and  parsley.  Turn  the  slices  over,  and 
sprinkle  with  the  remaining  seasoning.  Let  the  fish 
stand  in  a  cold  place  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  mix  the  flour  and  butter  in  a  small  saucepan. 
Pour  on  this  mixture  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Put  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  the  contents  until  they 
boil. 

Butter  a  flat  tin  sheet  and  lay  it,  buttered  side  up,  in 
a  large  dripping-pan.  Put  the  slices  of  halibut  on  this 
sheet,  and  then  cover  them  with  the  thickened  water. 
Pat  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes, 
basting  three  times  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan. 

When  the  fish  is  done,  and  the  pan  has  been  taken 
from  the  oven,  lift  the  tin  sheet  from  the  pan  and  care- 
fully slide  the  fish  into  a  warm  platter.  Garnish  with 
parsley.  Serve  Hollandaise  sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

Breaded  Turbans  of  Flounder. 

Fillet  three  flounders.  Season  the  fillets  with  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 
Now  dip  them  into  four  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter ; 
then  roll  them  up,  and  fasten  with  wooden  toothpicks. 
Have  two  beaten  eggs  in  a  deep  plate.  Put  one  turban 
at  a  time  on  the  plate,  and  cover  every  part  with  the  egg, 
afterward  rolling  it  in  bread  crumbs.  When  all  are 


188          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

breaded,  arrange  them  in  the  frying-basket,  but  do  not 
crowd  them.  Fry  in  fat  for  seven  minutes.  Drain  them, 
and  after  taking  out  the  skewers,  arrange  the  turbans  in 
a  circle  on  a  warm  dish.  Fill  the  centre  of  the  circle 
with  parsley,  and  serve  at  once.  Serve  Tartar  or  re- 
inoulade  sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

Any  kind  of  delicate  fish  may  be  filleted  and  cooked 
in  this  manner.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  may  be  mixed  with 
the  melted  butter. 

Turbans  of  Flounder  with  Anchovies. 

For  twelve  turbans  use  three  small  flounders,  each 
weighing  about  a  pound  and  a  half,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  oi 
pepper,  about  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  besides  the 
materials  mentioned  in  the  rule  for  anchovy  force- 
meat in  the  chapter  on  "  Garnishes." 

Fillet  the  flounders  as  already  directed,  and  season  the 
fish  with  the  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  the  force-meat  on 
the  fillets  ;  then  roll  up,  and  fasten  with  a  wooden  tooth- 
pick, as  illustrated  on  page  174.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
deep  plate.  Roll  the  turbans  in  the  butter  and  then  in 
the  flour,  and  place  them  in  a  shallow  pan.  Bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Arrange  in  a  circle  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  fill  the  centre  with  potato  balls  saute". 
Pour  anchovy  sauce  around  the  fish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Turbans  of  Fish  with  Oysters. 

Use  any  kind  of  small  fish  from  which  long,  thin  fillets 
can  be  obtained.  Make  an  oyster  force-meat,  and  pro- 
ceed as  for  turbans  of  flounder.  Serve  with  a  cream  sauce 
or  Bechamel  yellow  sauce.  The  centre  may  be  garnished 
with  quenelles  of  any  kind  of  fish.  A  part  of  the  oyster 
force-meat  may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 


FISH.  189 


Baked  Fillets  of  Flounder,  in  Wine. 

Allow  for  eight  persons  four  pounds  of  flounders,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one 
table-spoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  of  lemon  juice,  a  level 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Skin  and  bone  the  fish,  and  cut  it  into  small  fillets. 
Put  the  butter  and  other  ingredients  into  a  soup-plate, 
and  set  this  plate  on  the  back  part  of  the  range  where 
the  butter  will  melt  gradually.  As  soon  as  it  becomes 
melted  dip  the  fillets  into  the  dish,  one  at  a  time,  being 
careful  to  cover  all  parts  with  the  mixture.  Lay  the  fish 
in  a  clean,  smooth  baking-pan,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for 
ten  minutes,  basting  with  what  remains  of  the  butter  and 
seasoning.  When  the  fish  is  done,  slip  a  broad  knife- 
blade  under  each  fillet,  and  transfer  it  gently  to  a  hot 
platter.  Pour  all  the  gravy  that  remains  into  three  gills 
of  white  sauce,  and  pour  this  sauce  over  the  fish.  Serve 
very  hot. 

White  Sauce.  —  To  make  three  gills  of  sauce,  use  two 
gills  of  chicken  stock,  one  gill  of  cream,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one 
small  slice  of  onion,  a  thin  slice  of  carrot,  a  bay  leaf,  a 
slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

First  mix  the  butter  and  flour.  Add  all  the  other 
ingredients  mentioned  above  except  the  cream,  and  then 
place  the  dish  over  the  fire,  and  stir  the  mixture  until 
it  begins  to  boil.  Set  it  back  where  it  will  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes ;  then  add  the  cream,  and  let  the  sauce 
boil  up  once.  Strain  it,  and  add  the  gravy  from  the  fish- 
pan. 

Fillets  of  Flounder  au  Gratin. 

Use  one  large  flounder  or  two  small  ones  j  at  any 
rate,  have  five  pounds  before  cutting.  With  a  small, 


190          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

sharp-pointed  vegetable-knife,  cut  through  the  skin  all 
round  the  fish,  lengthwise,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 
the  other.  Now  loosen  the  skin  at  the  head,  and  draw  it 
gently  from  the  flesh.  You  will  be  obliged  to  use  the 
knife  occasionally.  When  one  side  has  been  skinned, 
turn  the  fish  and  skin  the  other.  Next  slip  the  knife 
between  the  flesh  and  bone,  and  remove  all  the  flesh  in 
two  pieces.  Cut  into  small  pieces,  —  perhaps  four  inches 
long  and  three  wide.  Spread  a  table-spoonful  of  soft 
butter  over  a  gratin  dish,  and  lay  these  pieces  or  fillets  in 
the  dish.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  keep  in  a 
cool  place  until  the  time  for  cooking. 

Make  a  pint  of  sauce  in  the  following  manner:  Mix 
one  table-spoonful  of  flour  and  three  of  butter,  and  add 
to  the  mixture  a  slice  of  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  a  pint  of 
chicken  stock,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  your  taste. 
Simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Strain  the  sauce,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Have 
ready  a  teacupful  of  fine  dried  breadcrumbs.  Season 
them  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  them 
over  the  sauce  and  fish.  Put  the  dish  into  a  hot  oven, 
and  bake  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  serve  immediately  in 
the  same  dish. 

Fried  Flounder. 

Scrape  the  flounder,  and  then  cut  off  the  head  and  fins. 
Wash  quickly  in  cold  water,  and  then  wipe  dry.  Season 
generously  with  salt,  —  a  teaspoonful  to  two  pounds  of 
fish.  Now  cover  with  the  beaten  egg,  and  then  with  fine 
bread  crumbs,  being  careful  to  have  every  part  well  coated 
with  the  egg  and  crumbs.  Fry  in  fat  for  seven  minutes, 
and  drain  on  brown  paper.  Serve  on  a  warm  napkin, 
with  a  garnish  of  fried  parsley.  Tartar  sauce  should  be 
provided  in  a  small  fancy  dish. 


FISH.  191 

*  Boiled  Striped  Bass. 

Prepare  the  water  for  the  bass  the  same  as  for  the  red 
snapper,  omitting,  however,  the  vinegar.  Cut  the  fins 
from  the  fish.  See  that  it  is  free  of  scales  ;  then  wash  it 
quickly  in  cold  water.  Lower  it  into  the  fish-kettle,  and 
move  the  kettle  forward  where  the  water  will  boil.  As 
soon  as  it  begins  to  boil,  move  back  where  it  will  just 
bubble  for  twenty  minutes,  if  the  fish  be  under  three 
pounds,  and  for  twenty-five  minutes,  if  it  be  over  three 
pounds.  When  done,  lift  it  from  the  water  and  drain 
well.  Now  slip  it  on  a  warm  dish,  and  serve  with  any 
of  the  following-named  sauces :  Dutch,  Bernaise,  remou- 
lade,  anchovy,  or  tomato. 

Sheep's-head,  black  bass,  lake  trout,  white-fish,  etc.,  all 
may  be  boiled  and  served  the  same  as  striped  bass. 

Breaded  Fillet  of  Bass. 

Get  small  bass  for  this  dish.  The  striped  kind  is  the 
best,  but  black  bass  is  very  good.  Fish  weighing  about 
a  pound  and  a  half  will  give  handsome  fillets. 

Clean  and  fillet  the  fish  (see  page  172).  Season  the 
fillets  generously  with  salt  and  lightly  with  pepper. 
Now  dip  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  being 
careful  that  every  part  is  covered  with  egg  and  crumb. 
Place  in  the  frying-basket,  but  do  not  let  the  pieces 
touch.  Fry  in  fat  for  three  minutes  and  a  half.  On 
taking  from  the  basket,  drain  on  brown  paper.  Serve 
very  hot  with  Tartar  sauce. 

Black-fish,  rock  bass,  halibut,  flounders,  white-fish, 
etc.,  may  be  filleted  and  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

Broiled  Smelts. 

For  twelve  large  smelts  use  three  table-spoonfuls-  of 
butter,  one  of  lemon  juice,  one  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  some  flour.  Put  the  butter,  salt,  pepper, 

\ 


192          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

and  lemon  juice  in  a  deep  plate,  and  set  on  the  back  part 
of  the  stove  where  the  butter  will  melt  slowly.  Have 
about  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  in  another  plate. 
Wash  and  wipe  the  smelts  ;  then  roll  them  in  the  melted 
butter  and  seasoning,  and  lightly  in  the  flour.  Lay  them 
in  a  double-broiler.  When  all  are  done,  cook  over  clear 
coals  for  seven  minutes.  Arrange  on  a  warm  dish,  and 
serve  with  remoulade  sauce,  —  the  sauce  to  be  in  a 
separate  dish. 

Stuffed  Smelts. 

Clean  a  dozen  and  a  half  large  smelts,  and  season  them 
with  salt.  Stuff  with  oyster  force-meat,  not  filling  them 
more  than  two-thirds.  Now  roll  them  in  melted  butter, 
and  then  in  fine  bread  crumbs.  Lay  them  in  a  shallow 
pan,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  basting 
once  with  soft  butter.  Serve  on  a  warm  dish  with 
Bernaise  sauce. 

Stuffed  smelts  may  be  breaded  and  fried,  in  which  case 
serve  with  Tartar  sauce. 

Turbot. 

In  some  countries  this  is  thought  to  be  the  choicest 
of  flat  fish.  When  not  too  large,  it  certainly  is  very 
delicate.  It  has  this  advantage  over  most  white  fish :  it 
improves  by  being  kept  a  day  or  two  after  it  is  killed. 
A  fish  weighing  from  four  to  eight  pounds  is  a  good  size 
for  boiling,  baking,  or  filleting.  Turbots  are  found  in 
the  market  from  two  pounds  up  to  twenty.  When  they 
weigh  more  than  ten  pounds,  the  flesh  generally  is  tough. 

In  choosing  a  turbot,  take  one  with  yellowish-white 
flesh.  The  meat  of  a  bluish-white  fish  will  not  be  so 
good.  Turbot,  like  halibut  (which  is  frequently  sold  for 
turbot),  has  a  dark  upper  skin,  while  the  lower  skin  is 
white.  Sometimes  the  under  skin  is  marred  by  red 
spots.  These  can  be  removed  by  rubbing  lemon  juice 
and  salt  on  them. 


FISH.  19o 

No  matter  how  this  fish  is  cooked,  it  always  should  be 
soaked  for  at  least  half  an  hour  in  salted  water  before 
being  prepared  for  cooking,  in  order  to  remove  the  slime. 
The  skin  becomes  thick  and  gelatinous  on  cooking,  and 
is  thought  by  epicures  to  be  a  choice  morsel ;  but  it  is 
rather  indigestible  food.  The  fins,  too,  are  gelatinous, 
and  they  are  left  on  the  fish  when  it  is  boiled. 

*  Boiled  Turbot. 

Wash  the  fish  carefully,  and  let  it  stand  for  one  hour 
in  salted  cold  water,  —  one  table-spoonful  of  salt  to  each 
pint  of  water.  Now  rinse  the  fish  in  fresh  water.  With 
a  sharp  knife,  cut  the  black  skin  in  a  straight  line  from 
head  to  tail.  This  will  prevent  the  white  skin  from 
breaking. 

Turbots  are  so  broad  that  if  the  particular  fish  about 
to  be  cooked  be  a  large  one,  it  will  not  fit  into  a  common 
fish-kettle.  Few  people  have  a  turbot-kettle,  and  when 
there  is  not  one  at  hand,  a  deep  milk-pan  will  answer 
very  well.  Put  a  round,  flat  pot-cover  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  or,  better  still,  have  a  round  piece  of  tin  made 
'to  fit  loosely  in  the  milk-pan. 

For  a  fish  weighing  six  pounds,  put  into  the  pan 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  the  turbot,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  When 
the  fish  is  put  in,  have  the  black  side  down.  Watch  the 
kettle  until  the  water  begins  to  boil;  then  skim  the 
liquid,  and  set  the  kettle  back  where  the  water  will  only 
bubble  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  lift 
the  tin,  with  the  fish  on  it,  out  of  the  water,  and  drain 
well.  Have  a  napkin  spread  smooth  on  a  broad  dish, 
and  slip  the  fish  on  to  it,  being  careful  to  avoid  marring 
the  shape.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  sliced  lemons,  and 
serve  with  lobster,  shrimp,  Hollandaise,  or  Bernaise 
sauce.  When  nasturtium  leaves  and  blossoms  can  be 
obtained,  they  make  a  pretty  garnish  for  this  dish. 

18 


194          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Turbot  au  Gratin. 

With  the  cold  turbot  left  from  a  meal  a  most  appetiz- 
ing dish  can  be  made  for  luncheon  or  dinner.  For  a 
small  dish  use  one  pint  of  fish,  free  of  skin  and  bones, 
one  generous  pint  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  one  gill  of  stock  or  water,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  of  flour,  one  scant  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one- 
third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  one  bay  leaf,  one  small  slice  of 
carrot,  a  slice  of  onion  about  the  size  of  half  a  dollar, 
and  a  tiny  bit  of  mace. 

Mix  the  flour  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter  in 
a  small  stew-pan ;  and  when  the  mixture  is  smooth  and 
creamy,  add  the  onion,  carrot,  bay  leaf,  mace,  and  water. 
Put  on  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the  milk  and  half  the  salt 
and  pepper.  Let  the  liquid  boil  up  once ;  then  strain  it. 

While  the  sauce  is  cooking,  prepare  the  crumbs. 
After  grating  them,  put  them  in  the  oven  in  a  large 
dripping-pan.  Watch  them  carefully,  stirring  frequently 
until  they  turn  a  delicate  brown ;  then  take  them  from 
the  oven. 

Now  put  the  remaining  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  frying- 
pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  crumbs. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  they  become  crisp,  which  will  be 
in  about  two  minutes.  Now  add  the  cheese  to  the 
strained  sauce.  Put  a  thin  layer  of  this  sauce  in  the 
bottom  of  a  gratin  dish,  —  a  plated  dish  or  a  fire-proof 
china  dish ;  then  add  a  layer  of  fish,  dredged  with  salt 
and  pepper ;  next  put  in  another  layer  of  sauce,  then  a 
second  layer  of  fish,  and  conclude  by  pouring  the  re- 
maining sauce  into  the  dish.  Sprinkle  the  browned 
crumbs  over  the  top.  Place  the  dish  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Serve  hot. 

Turbot  may  be  baked,  broiled,  fried,  or  filleted  the 
same  as  bass  or  flounder. 


FISH.  195 

Codfish  Cutlets. 

Use  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  three  of  butter, 
one  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  large  egg,  or  two 
small  ones,  about  a  large  cupful  of  dried  bread  crumbs, 
two  slices  of  fish  about  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  from  the 
middle  of  a  large  fresh  cod. 

Cut  off  the  fins,  and  cut  each  slice  in  halves.  Wipe 
all  dry.  Put  the  butter,  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and 
chopped  parsley  in  a  deep  plate,  and  set  the  plate  on  the 
back  part  of  the  range,  that  the  butter  may  get  melted. 
Beat  the  egg  with  a  fork  in  another  deep  plate. 

When  the  butter  is  melted,  dip  a  slice  of  fish  into  the 
mixture,  then  into  the  beaten  egg,  being  careful  to  cover 
every  part,  and  then  roll  in  crumbs.  Lay  this  slice  on  a 
clean  plate,  and  treat  the  others  in  the  same  way  -,  then 
set  all  away  in  a  cool  place  until  the  time  for  frying. 
Cook  in  the  fry  ing-basket  for  four  minutes,  and  serve 
with  tomato  sauce. 

Haddock  a  la  Creme. 

Use  a  fish  weighing  five  or  six  pounds.  After  cut- 
ting off  the  head,  wash  the  fish  and  put  it  into  boiling 
water  enough  to  cover  ;  and  after  adding  a  table-spoonful 
of  salt  and  one  of  vinegar,  cook  the  fish  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes. 

In  the  mean  time  make  the  sauce.  Put  a  quart  of 
milk,  a  small  slice  of  onion,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley  on  to 
boil.  Rub  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  to  a  cream, 
and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  to  it;  and  after 
beating  the  mixture  until  perfectly  light  and  creamy, 
stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  cook  for  five  minutes. 
Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  skim  out  the 
onion  and  parsley. 

When  the  fish  has  been  cooked  for  twenty  minutes, 
lift  it  gently  from  the  water  and  scrape  the  skin  from 


196          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

one  side  j  then  lay  it  carefully  upon  a  large  stone-china 
platter,  or  a  large  gratin  dish,  if  you  have  one,  and 
remove  the  skin  from  the  other  side.  Pick  out  all  fche 
small  bones  you  can  see,  and  then  take  out  the  backbone, 
starting  at  the  neck,  and  working  slowly  down  toward 
the  tail.  This  part  of  the  work  must  be  done  very  care- 
fully, in  order  to  preserve  the  shape  of  the  fish.  Drain  off 
uny  water  that  may  have  lodged  in  the  dish,  and  then 
dredge  the  haddock  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  it. 

Have  at  hand  eight  large  potatoes,  mashed  light,  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  half  a  cupful  of  hot  milk.  Rub  these  in- 
gredients together  through  a  colander,  and  heap  the 
mixture  lightly  around  the  edge  of  the  dish  on  which 
the  fish  lies.  Brown  slightly  in  the  oven,  which  will 
take  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve  at  once. 

Escaloped  Pish. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  persons,  use  a  quart 
of  boiled  and  flaked  fish  (any  kind  of  white  fish  will  do), 
a  quart  of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of 
flour,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Parmesan  cheese,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  cupful  and  a  half 
of  grated  bread  crumbs. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  set  it  on  the  stove 
to  get  melted.  When  it  becomes  melted,  add  the  flour, 
and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  is  smooth  and  frothy. 
Gradually  add  the  milk,  stirring  all  the  while.  Continue 
the  stirring  until  the  mixture  boils ;  then  place  it  where 
it  will  simply  simmer  during  the  next  two  minutes.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  add  the  cheese,  onion  juice,  half 
the  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  the  salt. 

Sprinkle  the  remainder  of  the  salt  and  pepper  on  the 
flaked  fish.  Put  a  layer  of  the  sauce  in  an  escalop  dish. 


FISH.  197 

then  a  layer  of  fish,  next  a  second  layer  of  sauce,  after- 
ward the  remainder  of  the  fish,  and  finally  put  in  a 
layer  of  sauce.  Sprinkle  the  crumbs  over  the  sauce,  and 
set  the  dish  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  The  crumbs  may  be  made  very  crisp  if  an 
extra  table-spoonful  of  butter  be  melted  and  sprinkled 
over  them  just  before  the  dish  is  put  into  the  oven. 


*  Here  is  a  simpler  rule  :  Begin  by  freeing  from  skin 
and  tones  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  baked  or  boiled  fish. 
Season  it  with  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
and  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt.  Next  make  a  sauce 
with  a  pint  of  milk,  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
and  one  of  flour,  and  a  piece  of  onion  about  the  size  of  a 
quarter  of  a  dollar.  Put  the  milk  and  onion  on  to  boil. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  till  a  cream  is  formed,  and  stir 
this  into  the  milk  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil.  Cook 
five  minutes  longer,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
After  removing  the  onion,  put  alternate  layers  of  the 
sauce  and  fish  into  an  escalop  dish,  having  three  of 
sauce  and  two  of  fish.  The  last  will,  of  course,  be  one 
of  the  sauce,  and  upon  it  should  be  sprinkled  dry  bread- 
crumbs, —  three-fourths  of  a  cupful.  Bake  for  about 
twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

*Fish  R6chauff£. 

Free  a  quantity  of  cold  fish  of  skin  and  bones,  and  for 
each  pint  allow  half  a  pint  of  egg  sauce  and  a  quart  of 
mashed  potato.  If  there  be  not  enough  sauce,  add  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  milk  to  make  up  the  proper  allow- 
ance. Put  a  thin  layer  of  potato  in  an  escalop  dish. 
Season  the  fish  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay  it 
upon  the  potato.  Pour  the  sauce  into  the  dish,  and 
cover  with  the  remaining  potato.  Spread  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  melted  butter  over  the  potato,  and  then  put  the 
dish  into  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 


198          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Salt  Fish  in  Cream,  with  Puree  of  Potatoes. 

For  the  pure*e  use  six  potatoes  of  medium  size,  a 
generous  half-cupful  of  hot  milk,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

For  the  rest  of  the  dish  use  enough  fish  to  make  a 
pint  and  a  half  (about  a  pound  and  a  quarter)  when  it 
is  flaked,  one  pint  of  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, one  of  flour,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  one-third  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

Wash  the  fish,  and  put  it  to  soak  (in  one  piece)  in 
cold  water  for  eight  or  ten  hours.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  pour  off  this  water ;  then  cover  with  fresh  cold 
water,  and  place  on  the  fire.  When  the  water  reaches 
the  boiling-point,  draw  the  stew-pan  back  where  it  will 
keep  hot,  without  boiling,  for  one  hour.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  pour  off  the  water  and  break  the  fish  into 
flakes,  freeing  it  of  skin  and  bones.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  milk,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  without 
letting  it  boil.  Now  beat  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
and  stir  into  the  dish  of  fish.  Cook  for  ten  minutes 
longer ;  then  add  the  pepper,  and  some  salt  if  it  be 
needed ;  and  also  add  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  beaten  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Stir  for  half  a  minute, 
and  then  pour  into  a  border  of  puree  of  potatoes. 

To  Make  the  Puree.  —  Cover  the  potatoes  with  boiling 
water,  and  place  them  on  the  fire  just  before  putting  on 
the  fish  and  milk.  Cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then  drain  off  the 
water,  and  mash  the  potatoes.  Add  the  seasoning  to  them, 
and  arrange  on  a  warm  dish  in  the  form  of  a  border. 

*  Salt  Fish  and  Eggs  in  Cream. 

This  is  a  pretty  dish  for  breakfast.  It  is  made  of  a 
pint  of  salt  fish,  a  pint  of  milk  (cream  is,  however, 
better),  half  a  dozen  eggs,  two  generous  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper 
in  quantities  to  suit  one's  taste. 


FISH.  199 


Free  the  fish  of  skin  and  bones  ;  then  wash  it  care- 
fully, and  tear  it  into  small  pieces.  Let  it  stand  over 
night  in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  in  the  morning  set  the 
basin  which  contains  it  on  the  stove  in  another  of  hot 
water,  and  let  the  fish  cook  for  twenty  minutes  or  half 
an  hour.  Meanwhile  put  the  eggs  into  another  basin, 
and  after  covering  them  with  boiling  water,  cover  the 
basin  and  set  it  where  the  water  will  keep  hot  for  ten 
minutes  without  boiling. 

During  this  time  put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  sauce- 
pan. Stir  the  butter  and  flour  together,  and  stir  the 
mixture  into  the  milk  when  it  begins  to  boil.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  set  the  saucepan  back  for 
two  minutes  where  the  heat  is  so  slight  that  the  milk 
will  only  bubble. 

Turn  the  fish  into  the  strainer,  to  drain  off  all  the 
water ;  then  put  it  into  the  cream  sauce,  and  cook  five 
minutes  longer.  While  it  is  cooking,  transfer  the  eggs 
from  the  basin  of  hot  water  to  some  cold  water,  and  then 
break  the  shells  and  remove  them  carefully.  Cover  the 
eggs  with  a  napkin,  to  keep  them  warm.  Pour  the  fish 
and  cream  upon  a  warm  platter,  and  lay  the  eggs  in  a 
circle  on  top.  If  care  has  been  taken  to  keep  them  hot 
without  boiling,  they  will  be  soft  and  digestible.  Serve 
the  dish  without  delay. 

*  Salt  Fish  in  Cream. 

After  tearing  a  pint  of  salt  fish  into  bits,  cover  it  with 
water,  and  let  it  soak  over  night.  In  the  morning  pour 
off  the  water,  and  add  a  pint  of  milk  to  the  fish.  Heat 
slowly  arid  keep  hot  (without  boiling)  for  half  an  hour. 
Rub  together  one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  one 
of  flour,  and  stir  in  with  the  fish  and  milk.  Put  the 
dish  where  it  will  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Season,  if 
necessary,  with  salt  and  pepper.  It  is  an  improvement 
to  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  serve  the  fish  in  a 


200          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

border  of  mashed  potatoes.     Finished  in  this  way,  the 
dish  is  a  good  one  for  luncheon. 

*  Fish  Toast. 

Use  six  small  slices  of  toast,  one  pint  of  cold  cooked 
fish,  freed  of  skin  and  bones,  and  torn  into  shreds  with 
two  forks,  three  gills  of  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  generous 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  in  the  double-boiler  and  set  it 
on  the  fire.  Mix  half  of  the  remaining  milk  with  the 
flour,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Cook 
for  five  minutes  ;  then  add  the  fish,  salt,  and  pepper,  and 
cook  for  five  minutes  longer.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  well,  and  add  the  rest  of  the  cold  milk  to  them. 
Stir  this  mixture  into  the  dish  containing  the  fish  mix- 
ture, and  take  the  latter  from  the  fire  at  once.  Now  add 
the  lemon  juice,  and  spread  the  prepared  fish  on  the 
bread,  which  should  be  toasted  and  buttered  while  the 
fish  is  heating.  Serve  very  hot. 

*  Baked  Salt  Mackerel,  Cream  Sauce. 

Wash  a  salt  mackerel  thoroughly,  and  soak  it  over 
night  in  about  three  quarts  of  cold  water.  In  the  morn- 
ing lay  it  on  its  back  in  a  shallow  baking-pan,  and  pour  a 
pint  of  milk  over  it.  Bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  stirring  into  the  milk,  at  the  end 
of  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  a  level  table-spoonful  of  flour,  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  all  rubbed  together  till  a  smooth 
paste  is  formed.  At  serving-time,  carefully  transfer 
the  fish  to  a  warm  platter,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  it. 

*  Spiced  Salmon. 

Free  of  skin  and  bones  any  salmon  left  from  a  dinner, 
and  put  it  into  a  deep  dish  or  a  bowl.  Next  prepare  a 


FISH.  201 


marinade,  allowing  for  each  pint  of  fish  the  following- 
named  ingredients  :  a  gill  of  vinegar,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice,  two  cloves,  a  small  piece  of  stick  cinna- 
mon, a  bay  leaf,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Put  these  articles  on  the  stove 
in  a  covered  saucepan,  and  as  soon  as  the  mixture  begins 
to  boil,  pour  it  over  the  salmon.  Cover  the  dish  and  set 
it  in  a  cool  place.  This  gives  a  nice  relish,  which  will 
keep  for  a  week. 

Any  other  rich  fish  may  be  treated  the  same  as 
salmon. 

*  Broiled  Smoked  Salmon. 

Even  so  simple  a  dish  as  this  is  often  improperly 
prepared.  For  six  persons  take  a  piece  of  smoked  sal- 
mon about  six  inches  long  and  four  broad,  remembering 
that  the  fish  is  very  rich.  Wash  and  drain,  and  broil 
slowly  for  twelve  minutes.  Place  on  a  warm  dish,  and 
spread  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  on  it. 

*  Broiled  Salt  Fish. 

At  first  thought  it  may  seem  absurd  to  give  a  rule  for 
broiling  a  bit  of  salt  cod ;  nevertheless,  few  people  cook 
this  fish  in  the  best  way.  It  is  a  delicious  relish  if  prop- 
erly prepared.  Use  a  piece  cut  from  the  thick  part  of 
the  cod.  Wash  it  well,  and  let  it  stand  in  cold  water 
for  twenty  minutes ;  then  wipe  it  dry,  and  broil  over 
a  moderate  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Place  on  a 
warm  dish,  and  spread  butter  over  it  with  a  generous 
hand,  cutting  the  fish  a  little  here  and  there,  so  that  the 
butter  may  penetrate  all  parts  of  it. 

*  Dried  Sprats. 

These  little  fish  are  sold  for  ten  cents  a  bunch.  They 
make  a  nice  relish  for  luncheon  or  supper.  Put  them  in 
a  bowl,  and  cover  with  boiling  water.  Let  them  stand 


202          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

ten  minutes ;  then  skin  them,  and  wipe  dry.  Broil  over 
clear  coals  for  eight  minutes.  Put  them  on  a  warm  dish, 
spread  a  little  butter  on  them,  and  serve. 

.     . 
*  Smoked  Herring. 

Prepare  the  herring  in  the  same  manner  as  the  dried 
sprats. 

*  Halibut  Fishballs. 

For  six  persons  use  two  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  halibut, 
four  or  five  potatoes  of  medium  size,  an  egg,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-third  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

Chop  the  fish  fine.  Put  the  potatoes  into  boiling 
water,  and  cook  them  for  half  an  hour  ;  then  pour  off  the 
water,  and  mash  the  potatoes  until  light  and  fine.  Add 
the  fish  and  seasoning,  and  finally  the  egg,  well  beaten. 
Form  the  mixture  into  small  balls;  and  after  putting 
these  into  a  fry  ing-basket,  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat. 
Cook  until  brown,  —  say  about  two  minutes. 

If,  instead  of  making  balls  of  the  mixture,  one  add 
one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk  to  it,  form  it  into 
flat  cakes,  and  cook  these  in  a  frying-pan,  with  either 
pork  fat  or  butter  enough  to  prevent  sticking,  a  very 
palatable  dish  will  be  the  result.  It  will  take  longer  to 
cook  these  cakes  than  it  does  to  cook  fishballs,  but  they 
will  be  delicate,  and  not  so  much  fat  will  be  required  as 
is  needed  for  the  immersion  of  fishballs. 

*  Fish  Cakes. 

To  make  these  cakes  one  must  use  eight  potatoes  of 
good  size,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  raw  salt  cod,  which 
has  been  shred  rather  fine  (do  not  soak  it),  one  egg,  one 
heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  gill  of  milk,  one-eighth  of  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  and  salt  enough  to  suit  your  taste  as 
the  work  goes  on. 


FISH.  203 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  of 
good  size ;  then  rinse  the  fish,  and  put  it  on  top  of  the 
potatoes.  Cover  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  half  an 
hour ;  then  pour  off  all  the  water,  and  inash  both  fish 
and  potatoes  until  fine  and  light.  Add  the  seasoning, 
butter,  milk,  and  egg.  Cut  the  pork  into  thin  slices,  and 
putting  it  into  a  frying-pan,  cook  it  until  brown  and 
crisp.  Form  the  fish  mixture  into  small,  thin  cakes, 
perhaps  two  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Eemove  the 
pork  from  the  frying-pan,  and  put  these  cakes  into  the 
fat.  When  they  get  brown  on  one  side,  turn  them,  and 
brown  the  other  side.  When  all  have  been  fried,  serve 
them  on  a  hot  platter  with  the  slices  of  pork  for  a 
garnish. 

If  you  do  not  like  the  taste  of  pork  the  cakes  may  be 
fried  in  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Fish  Croquettes. 

Free  of  skin  and  bones  a  pint  of  cold  boiled  fresh  fish, 
and  tear  it  into  .shreds.  Add  to  it  a  pint  of  hot  mashed 
potato,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  hot 
milk,  a  well-beaten  egg,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  set 
away  to  cool.  When  cold,  shape  into  cylinders,  cones, 
or  balls;  then  dip  in  a  beaten  egg,  and  roll  in  fine 
bread-crumbs.  Just  before  serving-time  place  the  cro- 
quettes in  a  frying-basket,  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat. 
Cook  for  two  minutes,  and  serve  as  soon  as  they  have 
been  drained. 

If  the  croquettes  be  wanted  for  breakfast,  all  the 
labor  except  frying  may  be  done  the  previous  day. 

Fried  Frogs'  Legs. 

Wash  the  legs  in  cold  water,  and  let  them  drain  in  a 
colander ;  then  season  well  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon 
juice.  For  a  dozen  legs,  beat  two  eggs  until  they  are  well 


204          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

broken,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  the  legs 
into  the  beaten  eggs  and  then  into  dried  bread  crumbs, 
and,  placing  them  in  a  fry  ing-basket,  plunge  into  boiling 
fat.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot.  Frogs' 
legs  are  suitable  fqr  breakfast  or  luncheon,  or  for  an 
entree  at  dinner.  In  the  latter  case  they  should  be 
served  with  Tartar  sauce. 

Fried  Shad  Roe. 

For  six  persons  use  the  roe  from  two  fishes.  Wash 
them,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt  and  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Cook 
for  ten  minutes,  and  then  put  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold 
water  for  an  equal  period.  On  removing  them  from 
the  water  at  the  end  of  that  time  cut  them  in  slices 
about  half  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  these  slices  with 
one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Now  dip  in  beaten 
egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  lard  for  five 
minutes. 

Shad  Roe  Baked  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Boil  and  cool  the  roe  in  the  same  manner  as  for  frying. 
Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
set  the  pan  on  the  stove.  When  the  butter  becomes  hot, 
add  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  the 
flour  becomes  brown ;  then  draw  the  pan  back  to  a 
cooler  place,  and  gradually  pour  into  it  one  pint  of  milk, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Boil  up  once ;  then  pour 
into  a  bowl,  and  set  in  a  warm  place. 

Butter  a  tin  plate,  and  place  the  roe  on  it.  Season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  sauce  over  the  roe,  and  then  bake  them  in  a  mod- 
erately hot  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  basting 
every  fifteen  minutes  with  the  sauce  and  dredging  lightly 


FISH.  205 

with  salt  and  pepper.  Five  minutes  before  the  roe  are 
done,  pour  upon  the  plate  any  of  the  sauce  that  may 
remain  in  the  bowl  at  that  time.  Serve  on  a  warm 
dish. 

Shad  Roe  Baked  in  Tomato  Sauce. 

Boil  and  cool  the  roe  as  previously  directed.  Put 
into  a  stew-pan  one  cupful  of  tomato,  one  cupful  of  stock 
or  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  a  bit  of  onion  about  as  big  as  a  dime.  Boil 
for  ten  minutes. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan 
and  on  the  stove,  and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  hot,  add  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy, 
and  then  turn  into  the  cooking  tomato.  Cook  five 
minutes  longer,  and  then  rub  through  a  strainer.  Now 
proceed  exactly  as  with  roe  baked  with  cream  sauce. 

Various  kinds  of  roe  may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
way  as  the  shad  roe. 

Oysters. 

Oysters  are  at  their  best  in  cold  weather.  The  breed- 
ing season  begins  about  the  first  of  May,  and  the  fish 
become  soft  and  milky.  It  is  not  until  the  weather  turns 
cold  that  they  grow  firm  and  plump  again.  Canned 
oysters  are,  of  course,  as  good  at  one  time  as  another, 
because  they  are  preserved  when  at  their  best. 

Oysters  are  sold  in  some  places  wholly  by  measure, 
and  in  others  both  by  measure  and  by  number.  When 
sold  by  measure,  they  are  usually  bought  with  the  juice 
that  was  taken  from  the  shells,  and  frequently  water  is 
added  to  this,  to  fill  up  the  measure ;  these  are  called 
liquid  oysters.  Solid  oysters  have  very  little  juice  with 
them. 

When  oysters  are  sold  by  the  dozen,  they  are  usually 
divided  into  several  grades.  "  Counts  "  are  the  largest 


206          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

oysters,  and  are  suitable  for  frying,  broiling,  stuffing,  etc. 
They  bring  the  highest  price,  of  course.  "  Selects  "  also 
are  large  oysters,  coming  next  to  counts.  They  are  called 
"culls"  in  some  places.  "Straights"  are  the  oysters 
taken  as  they  come,  large  and  small.  The  smallest 
oysters  are  called  stewing  oysters. 

In  cooking  oysters,  few  people  consider  how  delicate 
they  are  and  how  easily  spoiled.  The  seasonings  used 
should  be  few  and  of  the  most  delicate  kind ;  and  no 
matter  what  the  mode  of  preparation  be,  the  cooking 
should  never  be  prolonged  after  the  oysters  have  become 
plump  and  their  edges  curl.  Too  much  cooking  makes 
them  shrink  and  grow  tough. 

In  planning  for  a  dish  of  oysters  in  almost  any  form, 
nearly  all  the  work  may  be  performed  some  time  pre- 
vious to  the  meal.  The  cooking  should  not  be  done 
until  everything  has  been  so  arranged  that  the  dish  may 
be  sent  to  the  table  the  moment  it  is  finished.  The 
foundation  of  an  oyster  soup  may  be  made  a  considerable 
time  before  dinner,  and  the  oysters  and  liquor  added 
later.  Then  with  creamed  oysters,  the  cream  may  be 
prepared,  the  oysters  heated  to  the  boiling-point  in  their 
own  liquor,  drained,  and  set  aside  for  half  an  hour,  if 
need  be,  without  injury,  provided  they  are  not  kept  hot ; 
and  at  serving-time  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  add 
them  to  the  hot  sauce.  Oysters  may  be  breaded  and  put 
away,  in  a  cool  place,  for  a  long  time  before  they  are 
fried ;  but  they  should  be  eaten  just  as  soon  as  they  are 
cooked  in  order  to  taste  them  in  perfection.  It  is  the 
same  with  escaloped  oysters ;  they  may  be  prepared  con- 
siderably in  advance  of  the  cooking,  yet  must  be  served 
immediately  after  coming  from  the  oven  in  order  t( 
obtain  the  greatest  satisfaction  from  them.  It  is  surpris 
ing  that  people  take  so  much  pains  in  cooking  oysters 
and  then  fail  of  placing  them  upon  the  table  with  the 
least  possible  delay.  A  last  word  of  caution :  avoid 
over-cooking. 


FISH.  207 

To  Serve  Raw  Oysters. 

Kaw  oysters  are  served  on  the  half-shell,  in  oyster 
plates,  and  in  a  block  of  ice.  Serve  each  person  with 
five  or  six  oysters  and  a  quarter  of  a  lemon.  Pass  thin 
slices  of  buttered  brown  or  graham  bread.  Be  sure  that 
the  butter  is  spread  very  thin  on  the  bread. 

Little-neck  clams  take  the  place  of  oysters  during  the 
hot  weather,  and  are  served  in  the  same  manner. 

*  Stewed  Oysters. 

Drain  all  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters,  and, 
putting  it  into  a  stew-pan,  let  it  heat  slowly,  being  care- 
ful that  it  does  not  get  burned.  When  it  has  been 
heated  to  the  boiling-point,  skim  it  carefully.  Mean- 
while heat  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  double-boiler ;  and  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  add  the  skimmed  liquor,  the  oysters, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 
the  taste.  Let  the  stew  boil  up  once,  and  then  serve. 

Many  people  think  that  a  few  —  say  four  —  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker  improve  the  stew.  If 
any  cracker  be  used,  add  it  when  the  oysters  are  put  in. 

Oysters  Saute. 

After  draining  two  dozen  large  oysters,  season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  roll  in  fine  cracker  crumbs. 
Put  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  cup,  and  let 
the  cup  stand  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water  until  the  butter 
becomes  melted,  —  clear  on  top,  with  sediment  collected 
on  the  bottom  of  the  cup.  Pour  half  of  the  clear  butter 
into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  very  hot  put  in 
enough  oysters  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  When 
they  are  brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  and  brown  the 
other  side.  Be  careful  that  they  do  not  get  burned. 
Serve  very  hot  on  crisp  toast.  Now  put  the  remainder 
of  the  clear  butter  into  the  frying-pan,  and  cook  the  rest 
of  the  oysters. 


208         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

The  sediment  that  is  left  on  the  bottom  of  the  cup 
may  be  used  with  drippings  or  lard  for  shortening.  Its 
presence  in  butter  increases  the  danger  of  burning; 
therefore  it  should  always  be  separated  from  the  butter 
before  the  time  for  frying. 

Curried  Oysters. 

Lay  out  a  solid  quart  of  oysters,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  generous  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  onion,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

Put  the  oysters  into  a  stew-pan,  and  heat  them  to  the 
boiling-point,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  get  scorched. 
Skim  carefully,  and  turn  into  a  large  strainer  or  colan- 
der. When  they  have  been  well  drained,  put  them  away 
in  a  bowl,  or  anything  else  that  is  convenient,  where 
they  will  keep  warm  without  cooking  any  more.  Put 
the  butter  and  onion  into  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly 
for  ten  minutes.  Mix  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  and 
stir  into  the  butter.  Continue  the  stirring  until  the 
mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then  draw  the  frying-pan 
to  a  cooler  part  of  the  stove  and  gradually  add  half  a 
pint  of  the  liquor  which  was  drained  from  the  oysters. 
When  this  boils  up,  add  the  cream  and  some  salt  and 
pepper.  Boil  up  once  more  and  strain.  Put  the  oysters 
into  the  sauce,  and  serve  immediately  with  a  plate  of 
crisp  toast. 

Fried  Oysters. 

For  six  persons  provide  four  dozen  large  oysters. 
Drain  them  in  a  colander,  and  season  well  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Have  ready  a  pint  and  a  half  of  fine  dry  bread 
crumbs  seasoned  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Beat 
three  eggs  in  a  soup-plate.  Put  a  few  of  the  crumbs  on 
a  large  plate,  and  after  rolling  the  oysters  on  this  plate, 
one  by  one,  lay  them  on  a  board  that  has  been  sprinkled 


FISH.  209 

lightly  with  crumbs.  When  all  the  oysters  have  been 
thus  treated,  dip  them  into  the  beaten  egg,  one  at  a  time, 
and  roll  in  a  quantity  of  crumbs.  Place  them  on  a  large 
platter  or  on  plates,  but  never  on  top  of  one  another. 
Let  them  stand  for  an  hour  or  two  in  a  cool  place. 
When  the  time  for  frying  comes,  put  a  layer  of  oysters 
into  the  frying-basket,  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat  so  hot 
that  blue  smoke  rises  from  the  centre.  Cook  for  about 
a  minute  and  a  half ;  then  drain  on  brown  paper.  Cook 
the  remainder  of  the  oysters  in  the  same  way,  and  serve 
on  fried  slices  of  brown  bread  or  on  a  warm  napkin. 
The  bread  is  a  very  nice  accompaniment.  Oysters  pre- 
pared in  this  manner  are  brown,  crisp,  plump,  and 
tender. 

If  the  crumbs  be  not  liked,  the  oysters  may  be  fried  in 
table  oil.  Four  table-spoonfuls  will  be  enough  for  two 
dozen  oysters.  Put  it  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when 
it  has  become  hot,  drop  in  oysters  in  number  sufficient 
to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Brown  on  one  side,  and 
then  turn  and  brown  on  the  other. 

Oysters  that  are  to  be  fried  by  this  mode  may  simply 
be  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  or  they  may  be  sea- 
soned, and  dredged  lightly  with  flour.  They  will  not  be 
so  attractive  as  if  cooked  in  the  manner  first  described, 
yet  will  be  sweet  and  tender. 

Dressed  celery  or  cabbage  salad  is  exceedingly  goocl 
with  fried  oysters. 

Oysters  a  la  Poulette. 

Put  a  solid  quart  of  oysters  on  the  stove  to  boil  in 
their  own  liquor.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to  boil,  skim 
carefully,  and  turn  into  a  strainer  ;  and  when  they  have 
been  well  drained,  set  them  aside.  Put  half  a  pint  of 
the  oyster  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  begins  to 
boil,  stir  into  it  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour  mixed 
with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Boil  gently 
five  minutes  longer.  Put  a  pint  of  cream  into  a  double- 


210          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

boiler,  and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  add  the  thickened 
oyster  liquor.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  slight  grating 
of  nutmeg,  and  a  grain  of  cayenne.  Have  at  hand  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  add  to  them  half  a 
cupful  of  cold  cream.  Now  add  to  the  cooking  mixture 
the  oysters,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  finally  the 
egg  mixture.  Cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time  ;  then  remove  from  the  fire  immediately,  and  serve 
with  a  border  of  puff-paste  cakes.  If  you  choose,  add 
a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  just  as  the  oysters  are 
taken  from  the  fire. 

Oyster  Cutlets. 

There  must  be  taken  for  these  cutlets  one  cupful  of 
fine-chopped  cooked  chicken,  half  a  pint  of  oysters,  three 
eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  of  butter,  two  of 
fine  cracker  crumbs,  one  of  lemon  juice,  one  teaspoonfui 
of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  oyster  liquor.  Chop  the 
oysters  very  fine,  and  add  them  to  the  soaked  crumbs. 
Add  also  the  chicken  and  seasoning.  Put  the  butter  into 
a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  melted,  add  the  flour. 
Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  add  the  oyster  mix- 
ture, and  stir  for  three  minutes.  Put  in  two  eggs,  beaten 
Veil,  and  stir  for  a  minute  longer.  Take  from  the  fire 
and  spread  upon  a  platter  to  cool,  and  when  cold,  shape 
like  cutlets.  After  beating  the  remaining  egg  (which 
should  be  a  large  one),  dip  the  cutlets  into  it  and  then 
into  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  fat  until  brown.  A  min- 
ute and  a  half  should  suffice  for  the  cooking.  Serve 
with  Bechamel  or  anchovy  sauce. 

While  the  mixture  is  hot  it  may  be  spread  smoothly 
upon  a  buttered  platter  and  then  shaped  into  cutlets  ;  or 
the  cutlets  may  be  moulded  in  a  tin  form  that  is  made 
for  that  purpose. 


FISH.  211 


*  Oysters  au  Gratin. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  a  solid  quart  of  oysters, 
one  gill  of  cream  or  milk,  a  scant  half-pint  of  oyster 
liquor,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  of  butter,  one 
of  Parmesan  cheese,  one  cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Heat  the  oysters  to  the  boiling-point  in  their  own 
liquor ;  then  skim  them  out,  and  drain  them,  saving  the 
liquor.  Put  half  a  pint  of  this  liquor  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
heat  it  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  Meanwhile  beat  the 
butter  and  flour  together  until  smooth  and  light.  Stir 
this  mixture  into  the  liquor  when  it  begins  to  boil,  and 
cook  for  three  minutes  more ;  then  add  the  cheese,  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  cream.  Heat  to  the  boiling-point 
once  more,  and  add  the  oysters. 

Now  spread  the  contents  of  the  stew-pan  in  a  gratin 
dish  or  an  escalop  dish,  and  sprinkle  the  crumbs  over  the 
mixture.  Place  on  the  upper  shelf  of  an  oven  having 
a  moderate  heat ;  the  heat  should  be  greatest  at  the  top 
of  the  dish.  Bake  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  imme- 
diately afterward. 

The  crumbs  will  be  crisper  if  an  extra  table-spoonful 
of  butter  be  broken  into  bits  and  sprinkled  over  them 
before  baking. 

*  Roasted  Oysters. 

Put  a  solid  quart  of  oysters  into  a  stew-pan  in  their 
own  liquor.  Bub  three  large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
and  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  to  a  cream ;  and 
when  the  oysters  have  been  heated  to  the  boiling-point, 
skim  them  carefully  and  add  the  butter  and  flour.  Sea- 
son with  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one-tenth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  a  little  white  pepper,  and 
a  quantity  of  salt  to  suit  your  taste,  and  then  boil 
up  once.  Have  six  small  slices  of  toast  on  a  warm 


212          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

platter,  and  after  pouring  the  oysters  upon  them,  serve 
immediately. 

*  Escaloped  Oysters. 

For  a  dish  that  holds  three  pints,  generous  measure, 
use  one  solid  quart  of  oysters,  half  a  pint  of  cracker 
crumbs,  three  table-spoonfuls  and  a  half  of  butter,  one 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  and  one-third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  one-third  of  the  oysters  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish, 
taking  them  up  with  a  fork,  that  there  may  not  be  too 
much  liquor,  —  as  there  would  be  if  a  spoon  were  used. 
Sprinkle  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-third  of 
the  pepper  on  these.  Now  dot  with  one  table-spoonful 
of  the  butter.  Spread  a  generous  half-cupful  of  the 
cracker  crumbs  over  this.  Now  spread  the  remainder 
of  the  oysters  on  the  cracker  crumbs,  taking  them  up, 
as  before,  with  the  fork.  Sprinkle  with  the  rest  of 
the  salt  and  pepper,  and  dot  with  a  table-spoonful  and  a 
half  of  butter.  Spread  the  remainder  of  the  cracker 
over  these  oysters.  Now  dot  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and  sprinkle  with  the  oyster  liquor.  Bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

If  the  flavor  be  liked,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg  and 
a  gill  of  wine  may  be  added  to  this  dish. 


*  Here  is  another  receipt  in  which  bread  crumbs  are 
used  instead  of  cracker :  Take  one  solid  quart  of  oysters, 
drained  as  free  as  possible  from  liquid,  three  pints  of 
grated  bread  crumbs,  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt, 
one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  three  generous 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Grate  the  bread  and  measure  it  lightly.  Spread  it  in 
a  large  dripping-pan,  and  put  into  a  moderate  oven  to 
dry.  Keep  it  in  the  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  frequently.  It  should  be  only  slightly  browned 


FISH.  213 

in  that  time.  Let  the  crumbs  cool,  and  then  prepare 
and  cook  the  oysters  the  same  as  with  cracker  crumbs, 
save  that  none  of  the  oyster  liquor  should  be  used. 

*  Broiled  Oysters. 

Get  the  largest  oysters.  Season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Dip  them  one  by  one  into  melted  butter ;  then 
roll  them  in  flour.  Lay  them  on  an  oyster-broiler  that 
has  been  rubbed  over  with  butter.  It  is  best  to  use  a 
double-broiler  made  of  fine  wire,  with  the  bars  very 
close  together.  Cook  the  oysters  over  clear  coals  until 
they  turn  a  delicate  brown.  Serve  on  slices  of  thin 
toast. 

These  oysters  may  be  rolled  in  fine  cracker  crumbs 
instead  of  the  flour. 

Oysters  that  have  been  breaded,  the  same  as  for 
frying,  are  nice  broiled. 

*  Spindled  Oysters. 

Use  three  dozen  large  oysters,  three  ounces  of  smoked 
bacon,  six  slices  of  toast.  Six  or  eight  long,  slender 
steel  skewers  also  will  be  needed. 

Cut  the  bacon  into  three  dozen  small,  thin  squares. 
String  the  bacon  and  the  oysters  on  skewers,  alternating 
with  the  fish  and  meat.  Be  careful  to  run  the  skewer 
only  through  the  hard  part  of  the  oyster.  Kest  the 
ends  of  these  skewers  on  the  sides  of  a  narrow  baking- 
pan,  so  that  the  oysters  shall  hang  down,  but  not  touch 
the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Have  a  little  space  between 
each  skewer,  so  that  the  heat  shall  reach  all  parts  at 
once.  Place  the  pan  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  five  min- 
utes. On  taking  it  from  the  oven,  place  a  skewer, 
with  its  contents,  on  each  slice  of  toast.  Pour  over 
the  toast  the  juices  which  have  run  into  the  pan.  Serve 
at  once. 


214          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Griddled  Oysters. 

Have  the  griddle  heated  the  same  as  for  griddle-cakes. 
Have  the  oysters  wiped  dry.  Now  spread  them  on  a 
clean  towel,  and  place  on  a  large  plate.  Have  on  a  dish 
as  many  slices  of  buttered  toast  as  there  are  persons  to 
serve.  Have  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  for  every  dozen 
oysters.  Put  this  in  a  small  saucer,  and  place  it  beside 
the  oysters.  Now  drop  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size 
of  a  large  pea  on  the  hot  griddle,  and  immediately  drop 
an  oyster  on  this  butter.  Continue  this  work  rapidly 
until  all  the  oysters  are  on  the  griddle.  Now  come  back 
to  the  first  one.  Drop  a  bit  of  butter  near  it ;  then  slip 
a  knife  under  the  oyster,  and  lift  it  from  the  griddle 
with  the  brown  crust  that  has  formed  under  it.  Turn 
it  over  on  the  fresh  bit  of  butter,  and  continue  in 
this  way  until  all  have  been  turned.  Now,  beginning 
with  the  first  oyster,  take  off  all  and  place  them  on  the 
toast. 

The  entire  work  must  be  done  rapidly,  or  the  oysters 
will  be  cooked  too  much.  Never  try  the  shorter  way  of 
buttering  the  entire  griddle  at  once ;  if  you  do  you  will 
have  burned  butter,  which  will  destroy  the  true  flavor  of 
the  oysters. 

*  Oysters  on  Toast. 

For  six  people  use  fifty  good-sized  oysters,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  six  slices  of  toast, 
ftnd  salt  to  suit  the  taste. 

Put  the  oysters  in  a  frying-pan  and  on  the  stove,  and 
vhen  they  get  heated  to  the  boiling-point,  add  the  sea- 
joning.  Boil  up,  and  then  pour  them  on  the  slices  of 
toast,  which  should  be  arranged  on  a  warm  platter. 
Serve  at  once.  This  is  the  simplest  way  to  prepare 
oysters.  They  can  be  cooked  at  the  table  in  a  chafing- 
dish. 


FISH.  215 


Stuffed  Oysters. 

For  two  dozen  large  oysters  make  a  force-meat  with 
the  following-named  ingredients :  the  breast  of  an  un- 
cooked fowl,  chopped,  pounded,  and  then  rubbed  through 
a  puree  sieve,  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk, 
one-eighth  of  a  cupful  of  stale  bread  crumbs  free  of 
crust,  the  white  of  one  egg,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
half  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt,  a  tiny  bit  of  white  pepper,  and 
a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Put  the  bread  and  cream  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  cook 
until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed  (it  will  take  ten  minutes 
on  the  back  of  the  range,  where  it  should  be  put,  and 
where  it  will  hardly  bubble).  Take  this  paste  from 
the  fire,  and  add  the  seasoning,  chicken,  and  the  white 
of  the  egg,  well  beaten.  Mix  all  well,  and  set  away  to 
cool. 

Dry  the  oysters  on  a  soft  towel,  and  season  them  well 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Now  roll  them  in  fine  bread 
crumbs,  and  lay  them  on  a  large  dish.  Divide  the  force- 
meat into  twelve  parts,  and  spread  evenly  on  twelve 
oysters.  Lay  the  other  twelve  oysters  on  the  first  dozen, 
pressing  gently  with  the  blade  of  the  knife  to  make  them 
stick. 

Put  into  a  deep  plate  the  yolk  of  the  egg  left  from  the 
force-meat  and  one  whole  egg,  and  beat  well  with  a  fork. 
Season  with  salt.  Dip  the  stuffed  oysters  in  this  egg, 
and  then  roll  them  in  bread  crumbs,  being  careful  to 
have  every  part  covered  with  the  egg  and  crumbs. 
When  all  are  done,  place  them  in  a  frying-basket,  being 
careful  not  to  crowd  them,  and  cook  until  they  are  a  rich 
brown,  in  fat  at  the  temperature  of  about  400°.  It  will 
take  about  one  minute  and  a  half  to  fry  them.  Serve 
with  Madeira  sauce. 

The  stuffed  and  breaded  oysters  may  be  kept  in  a  cool 
place  for  several  hours  before  frying. 


216          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Oysters  a  la  Duxelles. 

Use  three  dozen  oysters  of  medium  size,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne, half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  salt  to  suit  the  taste,  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Heat  the  oysters  to  the  boiling-point  in  their  own 
liquor.  Skim  them,  and  then  turn  them  into  a  strainer 
that  has  been  placed  over  a  bowl.  Let  the  liquor  stand 
for  a  few  minutes ;  then  pour  off  one  pint  of  it,  being 
careful  not  to  pour  in  any  sand.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
saucepan  and  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  becomes  hot  add 
the  mushrooms  to  it.  Cook  for  two  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Now  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  frothy. 
Draw  the  saucepan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  oyster 
liquor,  stirring  steadily ;  then  push  forward,  and  add 
the  salt,  pepper,  and  onion  juice.  Boil  for  three  min- 
utes ;  then  add  the  oysters.  Cook  for  two  minutes,  and 
stir  m  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  which  have  been  beaten 
thoroughly  with  the  cold  water.  Take  from  the  fire  at 
once,  and  add  the  lemon  juice.  Serve  immediately. 

These  oysters  may  be  served  on  thin  slices  of  toasted 
bread,  or  with  a  border  of  puff-paste  cakes,  or  on  Boston 
crackers  that  have  been  split,  dipped  in  cold  water,  then 
buttered  on  the  inside,  and  placed  on  a  pan  and  in  a  hot 
oven  for  six  or  seven  minutes. 

Baked  Oysters  a  la  Duxelles. 

For  six  persons  use  one  solid  quart  of  oysters,  a  cup- 
ful and  a  half  of  chicken  or  veal  stock,  one  teaspoonful 
of  fine-minced  onion,  a  cupful  of  fine-chopped  mush- 
rooms, three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  six  of  butter,  a  gen- 
erous pint  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  one-fifth  of  a 


FISH.  217 


teaspoon  ful  of  cayenne,  one  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
white  pepper,  and  about  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

Put  the  oysters  and  stock  on  the  fire  in  a  stew-pan. 
The  instant  they  begin  to  boil,  take  them  from  the  fire ; 
skim  them,  and  then  turn  into  a  colander  that  has  been 
placed  over  a  bowl.  Pour  off  one  pint  of  the  strained 
liquor,  being  careful  not  to  get  any  sand  in  it.  Now  put 
five  spoonfuls  of  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan  and  on  the  fire. 
When  the  butter  is  melted,  add  the  onion  and  mush- 
rooms. Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while, 
and  being  careful  not  to  brown  the  mixture.  Now  add 
the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  frothy.  Draw  the 
saucepan  back  to  a  cooler  part  of  the  stove,  and  grad- 
ually add  the  pint  of  strained  liquor.  Stir  until  it  boils, 
and  then  simmer  for  three  minutes.  Add  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  well  beaten,  the  oysters,  and  the  seasonings, 
and  take  the  pan  from  the  fire.  Turn  the  mixture  into 
an  escalop  dish.  Cover  with  the  grated  crumbs,  and  dot 
these  with  the  remaining  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

This  dish  is  suitable  for  an  entree  or  for  a  supper 
dish. 

Oysters  a  la  Villeroi. 

For  six  persons  use  two  dozen  large  oysters,  half  a 
pint  of  chicken  or  veal  stock,  two  large  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  two  of  flour,  three  eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
some  salt  and  dried  bread  crumbs. 

Put  the  oysters  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  chicken  stock, 
and  place  on  the  fire.  As  soon  as  they  boil,  take  them 
from  the  fire  and  skim  them.  Now  turn  them  into  a 
colander  which  is  placed  over  a  bowl,  to  save  the  liquor. 

Mix  the  butter  and  flour  together  in  a  saucepan.  Add 
a  cupful  and  a  half  of  the  oyster  liquor,  and  place  the 
mixture  on  the  fire.  Stir  all  the  time  until  it  boils ;  then 
set  it  back,  and  let  it  simmer  for  three  minutes. 


218          MISS  PABLO A'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well,  and  add  to  them  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  cool  oyster  liquor.  Stir  this  into 
the  sauce,  and  cook  for  one  minute,  being  careful  to  stir 
all  the  while  and  not  to  let  it  boil.  Take  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  lemon  juice  ;  also  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  then  set  away  to  cool.  Beat  well  one  whole 
egg  and  the  white  of  another.  Add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  beat  a  little  longer.  Now  season  the  drained 
oysters  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  them  one  by  one  in 
the  cooled  sauce,  being  careful  to  cover  every  part  with 
it.  As  each  oyster  comes  from  the  sauce,  roll  it  lightly 
in  the  bread  crumbs.  When  all  have  been  treated  in 
this  way,  dip  them  in  the  beaten  egg  and  then  roll  again 
in  the  bread  crumbs.  Fry  in  fat  for  a  minute  and  a 
half.  Arrange  on  a  warm  napkin,  and  garnish  with 
quartered  lemons  and  parsley.  Serve  Bechamel  or  to- 
mato sauce  with  them,  if  they  are  served  for  an  entree, 
but  if  they  are  for  a  supper  dish  there  should  be  no 
sauce. 

When  these  oysters  are  being  "  sauced  "  and  breaded, 
two  may  be  fastened  together  with  the  sauce,  if  you 
prefer  them  that  way. 

Oyster  Kabobs. 

Use  the  same  materials  as  for  oysters  a  la  Villeroi, 
but  with  the  addition  of  four  table- spoonfuls  of  fine- 
chopped  mushrooms,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  pars- 
ley, and  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  When  the  butter 
and  flour  are  mixed  for  the  sauce,  add  these  new  ingredi- 
ents with  the  oyster  liquor. 

When  the  oysters  are  covered  with  the  sauce,  string 
five  or  six  on  a  steel  or  silver  skewer,  and  then  roll  in 
crumbs.  Next  cover  with  egg,  and  again  with  crumbs. 
Fry,  and  serve  on  slices  of  toast,  with  a  garnish  of 
parsley. 


FISH.  219 


*  Oysters  Cooked  in  a  Chafing-dish. 

This  way  of  cooking  oysters  is  popular  with  gentle- 
men. The  combinations  may  be  varied  to  suit  different 
tastes.  Here  are  a  few  simple  methods  of  preparing 
the  dish :  — 

Put  into  the  chafing-dish  one  solid  pint  of  oysters,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  little  cayenne.  Light  the  lamp,  and  cook  the  oys- 
ters, stirring  often,  until  they  curl  on  the  edges.  Serve 
at  once  on  slices  of  buttered  toast. 

Another  way  is  to  add  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice  and  the  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs  to  the  oys- 
ters as  soon  as  the  edges  begin  to  curl.  Stir  for  half  a 
minute  and  serve  on  toast. 

Still  another  way  is  to  add  a  gill  of  cream  or  milk  to 
the  oysters  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  curl.  Stir  until  they 
boil  once  more. 

*  Roast  Clams. 

When  possible,  get  the  clams  ten  hours  or  even  a  day 
before  they  are  to  be  cooked.  Wash  them  in  an  "ample 
quantity  of  clear  water ;  then  just  cover  them  with  fresh 
water,  and  for  each  peck  of  clams,  sprinkle  in  one  cup- 
ful of  corn  meal.  This  will  make  them  plump  and  ten- 
der. Bear  in  mind  that  a  peck  will  make  only  about 
a  quart  when  shelled.  When  it  is  time  to  cook  the  clams, 
be  sure  that  the  oven  is  very  hot.  Einse  the  clams,  and 
drain  them  in  a  colander  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  spread 
them  in  an  old  dripping-pan,  and  put  the  pan  into  a  hot 
oven.  As  soon  as  the  shells  begin  to  open,  the  clams  will 
be  found  to  be  cooked ;  this  will  be  in  from  five  to  eight 
minutes.  Have  at  hand  a  deep  dish,  well  warmed,  and 
drop  the  clams  into  it  as  soon  as  they  have  been  removed 
from  the  shells.  Spread  sauce  over  them,  and  serve  with 
thin  slices  of  buttered  brown  bread. 


220          MISS  PABLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

To  make  the  sauce,  put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
into  a  warm  bowl  and  beat  it  to  a  cream  ;  then  stir  into 
it  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and 
very  little  cayenne. 


*Here  is  another  receipt:  Scrub  the  shells  with  a 
brush,  and  wash  them  in  several  waters  j  then  drain  well. 
Spread  in  a  large  dripping-pan,  and  put  the  pan  in  a  very 
hot  oven.  As  soon  as  the  shells  open  —  say  in  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  —  the  clams  should  be  served  either  in 
the  whole  shell  or  half  the  shell.  Quarters  of  lemon, 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  toasted  brown  bread  should 
be  served  with  them. 

*  Stewed  Clams. 

Use  about  a  quart  of  shelled  clams,  one  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  about  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a 
double-boiler.  Put  the  clams  into  a  colander,  and  pour 
a  quart  of  cold  water  over  them.  This  washes  them  suf- 
ficiently. Do  not  let  them  drain,  but  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  immediately.  Add  the  milk  as  soon  as  it  be- 
gins to  boil.  Beat  the  flour  and  butter  together  until 
creamy ;  and  when  the  clams  begin  to  boil,  put  the 
creamy  mixture  into  the  stew-pan.  Add  the  seasoning, 
and  let  the  clams  simmer  for  two  minutes.  Lay  some 
toasted  bread  or  crackers  on  the  bottom  of  a  deep  dish, 
and  pour  the  stew  upon  them. 

Deviled  Scallops. 

Use  for  this  dish  a  quart  of  scallops,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one 


FISH.  221 

cupful  of  white  stock  (chicken  or  veal),  and  a  cupful  of 
cracker  crumbs. 

Put  the  scallops  on  the  stove  in  a  saucepan,  and  heat 
them  just  to  the  boiling-point  in  their  own  liquor  ;  then 
drain  them,  saving  the  liquor,  and  chop  them  rather  fine. 
Reserve  a  spoonful  of  the  butter,  and,  putting  the  re- 
mainder into  a  warm  bowl,  beat  it  to  a  cream ;  then  add 
the  seasoning,  beating  it  in  thoroughly.  Now  add  the 
stock,  hot.  Stir  the  chopped  scallops  and  their  liquor 
into  this  sauce,  and  let  them  stand  for  half  an  hour.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  put  them  into  an  escalop  dish  or  in 
shells.  Sprinkle  with  crumbs,  dot  with  the  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  immediately. 

Scallops  Fried  in  Batter. 

Make  a  batter  of  a  pint  of  flour,  two  eggs,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salad  oil  (or  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  if  you 
have  no  oil),  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  nearly  half  a 
pint  of  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  and,  after  add- 
ing the  milk  to  them,  pour  the  mixture  upon  the  flour. 
Beat  vigorously  for  two  or  three  minutes ;  then  add  the 
salt  and  oil.  Drain  a  quart  of  scallops,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Drop  them  into  the  batter,  and  then 
drop  spoonfuls  of  scallops  and  batter  into  boiling  fat. 
Cook  for  three  minutes.  Drain,  and  serve  at  once. 

*  Fried  Scallops. 

Drain  two  dozen  scallops  carefully,  and  after  season- 
ing them  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  them  lightly  in  fine 
bread  crumbs.  Beat  two  eggs  in  a  soup-plate,  with  a 
spoon  or  fork,  and  after  dipping  the  scallops  in  the  egg, 
roll  them  in  a  quantity  of  crumbs  and  lay  them  on  a  large 
platter.  Be  careful  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other. 
When  all  have  been  breaded,  place  in  the  frying-basket 
as  many  as  can  be  accommodated  on  the  bottom,  and 


222          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

plunge  into  boiling  fat.  Cook  for  two  minutes,  and  serve 
with  toast  and  cabbage  or  celery  salad.  Tartar  sauce 
also  is  a  good  accompaniment. 

Care  must  be  taken  that  the.  fish  are  thoroughly  sea- 
soned with  salt  previous  to  the  breading,  and  that  the  fat 
is  so  hot  that  blue  smoke  rises  from  the  centre. 

Soft-shell  Crabs. 

If  the  following  directions  be  followed  carefully,  it 
will  not  be  a  difficult  task  to  clean  soft-shell  crabs.  The 
back  of  the  crab  is  of  greenish  color,  and  feels  to  the 
touch  somewhat  like  a  piece  of  thin,  stiff  rubber.  At 
each  end  it  tapers  to  a  very  sharp  point.  Now,  having 
the  crab  in  its  natural  position,  take  one  of  these  points 
between  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  left  hand,  press- 
ing the  back  at  the  same  time  with  the  second  finger, 
and  bend  the  shell  back  about  half-way,  keeping  the  crab 
on  the  plate  all  the  while.  There  will  then  be  exposed 
a  spongy  substance  shaped  like  a  scallop  shell.  Scrape, 
and,  if  necessary,  cut,  this  sponge  entirely  away,  and 
then  repeat  the  operation  at  the  other  point  of  the  back. 
Next  turn  the  crab  over,  and  when  it  lies  on  its  back 
there  will  be  seen  a  semi-circular  piece  of  soft  shell,  at 
once  noticeable  because  of  its  dark  color.  This  is  com- 
monly called  the  "apron,"  or  "flap."  It  finishes  in  a 
point.  Take  this  point  between  the  finger  and  thumb, 
and  raise  the  apron,  pulling  or  cutting  it  off  of  the  crab. 
Some  of  the  spongy  substance  already  described  will  be 
found  here,  and  should  be  removed.  Wash  in  cold  water, 
and  wipe  gently  with  a  soft  towel.  The  crab  will  then 
be  ready  for  its  seasoning,  preparatory  to  cooking. 

Fried  Soft-shell  Crabs. 

After  seasoning  the  crabs  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip 
in  beaten  egg  and  afterward  in  dry  bread  crumbs.  Fry 
in  hot  fat  until  they  acquire  a  rich  brown  color,  —  say 


FISH.  228 


for  about  three  minutes,  —  and  serve  at  once  with  Tartar 
sauce. 

Baked  Crabs. 

After  cleaning  the  crabs  and  seasoning  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dip  them  in  melted  butter  and  sprinkle 
thickly  with  dry  bread  crumbs.  Put  them  into  a  drip- 
ping-pan, and  set  them  into  an  intensely  hot  oven  for  five 
minutes.  Serve  immediately  with  mustard  cream  sauce. 

Broiled  Soft-shell  Crabs. 

Clean  the  crabs,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
For  eight,  melt  half  a  cupful  of  butter  in  a  deep  plate. 
Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne.  Roll  the  crabs  in  this 
liquid  and  then  in  dry  flour.  Place  them  in  a  double- 
broiler,  and  cook  over  hot  coals  for  eight  minutes.  Serve 
with  Dutch  sauce. 

Deviled  Crabs. 

Use  one  pint  of  crab  meat  (a  dozen  good-sized  crabs 
will  supply  this  quantity),  a  generous  half -pint  of  white 
stock,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  scant  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  grated  stale  bread  crumbs.  Pick  the  crab  meat 
from  the  shells.  Wash  and  wipe  the  shells.  Put  the 
stock  in  a  small  saucepan.  Mix  the  flour,  mustard,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter.  Stir  this  mixture  into 
the  boiling  stock.  Boil  for  two  minutes,  and  on  taking 
from  the  fire,  add  the  crab  meat  and  seasonings.  Mix  well, 
and  then  put  the  mixture  into  the  crab  shells.  Sprinkle 
the  bread  crumbs  over  these,  and  then  dot  with  the  two 
remaining  table- spoonfuls  of  butter.  Arrange  the  shells 
in  a  large  baking-pan,  and  cook  in  a  rather  hot  oven  until 
the  crumbs  get  browned.  The  pan  must  have  a  grate 


224          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

under  it,  so  that  the  heat  shall  not  be  great  at  the  bottom. 
The  crumbs  should  become  brown  in  ten  or  twelve  min- 
utes. Cover  the  bottom  of  a  large  dish  with  parsley. 
Arrange  the  crabs  on  this,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster,  prawn,  and  shrimp  may  be  prepared  in  the 
same  manner. 

Canned  crab  meat  may  be  used  for  this  dish. 

*  Curry  of  Lobster. 

Cut  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square  the  meat  of  a 
lobster  weighing  about  three  pounds,  and  after  seasoning 
with  salt  and  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  set  it 
away  in  a  cold  place.  Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become  hot,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  small  teaspoonful  of  curry 
powder.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  is  brown ;  then  grad- 
ually add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  stock,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  lobster,  and  cook  six  minutes 
longer.  Place  small  slices  of  crisp  toast  upon  a  warm 
dish,  and  pour  the  curry  upon  them.  Garnish  with 
triangles  of  toast  and  bits  of  parsley. 

If  the  flavor  of  onion  be  liked,  fry  a  small  onion  in 
the  butter  before  adding  the  flour  and  curry-powder; 
but  in  this  case  strain  the  sauce  before  the  lobster  is  put 
with  it. 

*  Fricassee  of  Lobster. 

Here  is  a  good  mode  of  preparing  a  lobster  weighing 
two  and  a  half  or  three  pounds.  Besides  the  fish  there 
will  be  needed  a  pint  of  white  stock  or  water,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  of  lemon  juice,  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  a  sprig 
of  parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Remove  the  meat  from  the  shell  of  the  lobster,  and  cut 
it  into  small  cubes.  Put  the  torn-alley,  or  green  liver,  with 
it ;  and  after  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  all  into 
a  deep  saucepan,  and  set  aside.  Put  the  onion,  mace, 


FISH.  225 

parsley,  and  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for 
five  minutes  j  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  constantly 
until  smooth  and  frothy.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  grad- 
ually add  the  stock.  Boil  gently  for  three  minutes  j  and 
after  adding  the  lemon  juice  and  some  salt  and  pepper, 
strain  the  liquid  upon  the  lobster.  Cook  the  dish  for 
eight  minutes,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice  or  dry  toast. 

When  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  stock,  milk,  or  half 
cream  and  half  water,  may  be  substituted.  In  this  case 
the  lemon  juice  must  not  be  added  until  the  last  moment, 
because  it  wouldf  curdle  the  sauce  if  boiled  with  it. 

Lobster  Newburg. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  or  eight  persons,  use 
the  meat  of  a  lobster  weighing  about  four  pounds,  or  that 
of  two  small  lobsters,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
of  brandy,  two  of  sherry,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Cut  the  meat  of  the  lobster  into  small,  delicate  slices. 
Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
becomes  hot,  put  in  the  lobster.  Cook  slowly  for  five 
minutes ;  then  add  the  salt,  pepper,  sherry,  brandy,  and 
nutmeg,  and  simmer  five  minutes  longer.  Meanwhile 
beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  cream  to 
them.  Pour  the  liquid  over  the  cooking  mixture,  and  stir 
constantly  for  one  minute  and  a  half.  Take  from  the 
fire  immediately  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and  serve  in  a 
warm  dish. 

Lobster  Newburg  may  be  served  as  a  fish  course  in  a 
dinner  or  luncheon.  A  garnish  of  triangular  bits  of  puff 
paste  may  be  added,  or  the  lobster  may  be  served  on 
toast.  No  mode  of  cooking  lobster  gives  a  more  delicate 
or  elegant  dish.  Special  care  must  be  taken  to  stir  the 
mixture  constantly  after  the  cream  and  beaten  eggs  are 
poured  over  the  lobster  until  the  frying-pan  is  taken 
from  the  fire. 

16 


226          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Lobster  Cutlets. 

For  one  dozen  cutlets  use  one  pint  of  lobster  meat 
chopped  rather  fine,  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  chicken  stock, 
a  generous  table-spoonful  of  flour,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  of  lemon  juice,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper,  one-sixth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  four  eggs,  some  crumbs 
for  breading,  and  the  tips  of  twelve  of  the  small  claws. 

Mix  the  salt  and  pepper  with  the  chopped  lobster. 
Put  the  cream  or  stock  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  flour  and 
butter,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  cream.  Cook  for  one 
minute,  stirring  all  the  while.  Now  add  the  lobster. 
Stir  well,  and  cook  for  three  minutes.  Next  add  two  of 
the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Stir  quickly,  and  take  from  the 
fire  instantly.  Stir  in  the  lemon  juice,  and  spread  the 
mixture  on  a  platter  to  cool.  When  it  is  cold,  sprinkle 
a  board  with  fine  bread  crumbs,  and  put  a  soup-plate  full 
of  crumbs  on  one  corner  of  the  board.  Beat  two  eggs  in 
a  second  soup-plate.  Butter  a  cutlet-mould,  and  sprinkle 
it  generously  with  fine  crumbs.  Pack  it  full  of  the  pre- 
pared lobster.  Turn  the  cutlet  out  on  the  board,  and 
line  the  mould  again  with  crumbs,  proceeding  as  before. 

When  all  the  cutlets  have  been  formed,  cover  them 
with  the  beaten  egg  and  crumbs.  Now  stick  a  small 
claw  into  the  small  end  of  each  cutlet.  Fry  for  about  a 
minute  and  a  half.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  arrange 
in  a  circle  on  a  warm  napkin,  putting  a  teaspoonful  of 
Tartar  sauce  in  the  centre  of  each  cutlet.  Or  they  may 
be  arranged  on  a  warm  dish,  and  anchovy  sauce  be 
poured  around  them. 

Shrimps  Baked  in  Bell  Peppers. 

Use  for  this  dish  one  dozen  green  bell  peppers,  one 
quart  of  picked  shrimps,  one  teacupful  of  grated  bread 
crumbs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  mixed  mustard,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 


FISH.  227 


one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed,  a  slight  grat- 
ing of  nutmeg,  one  egg,  and  some  salt,  unless  the  fish 
themselves  be  salty. 

Cut  the  stem  ends  from  the  peppers,  and  then  cut  out 
the  seeds  and  veins,  —  the  "  hot "  parts.  Soak  the 
cleaned  peppers  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  then  beat  into  it  the 
seasonings  and  the  egg.  Next  add  the  crumbs.  Mix 
these  ingredients  well,  and  add  them  to  the  shrimp. 

Drain  .the  peppers  at  the  end  of  the  half-hour,  and 
stuff  them  with  the  prepared  shrimp.  Arrange  them  in 
a  pan  with  the  open  side  up.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes. 

This  dish  may  be  served  as  an  entree  or  as  a  fish 
course  in  a  dinner  or  luncheon.  Crabs  may  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  shrimp. 

Escaloped  Shrimps. 

If  there  be  half  a  dozen  persons  in  the  family,  use  a 
quart  of  shelled  shrimps,  a  pint  of  cream,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one-fifth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  pint  of  grated  bread 
crumbs,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Rinse  the  shrimps  in  cold  water,  and  sprinkle  them 
with  salt  and  pepper,  using  about  a  generous  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  a  fourth  as  much  pepper.  Put  the  cream  on 
the  stove  in  the  double-boiler.  Rub  the  flour  and  butter 
together  until  creamy ;  and  when  the  pint  of  cream  be- 
gins to  boil,  stir  this  mixture  into  it.  Add  the  cayenne, 
some  salt,  and  the  shrimps,  and  taste  the  mixture  to 
satisfy  yourself  that  there  is  seasoning  enough.  Turn 
into  one  large  escalop  dish  or  several  small  shells. 
There  will  be  fish  and  sauce  enough  to  fill  a  dozen  of 
the  common-sized  plated  or  china  shells.  Cover  with 
the  bread  crumbs,  place  in  a  pan,  and  set  in  a  hot  oven. 
It  will  take  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  cook  them. 


228          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

The  pan  should  be  raised  from  the  bottom  of  the  oven, 
so  that  the  top  of  the  dish  shall  be  subjected  to  greater 
heat  than  the  bottom ;  the  object  being  to  brown  the 
crumbs  without  letting  the  sauce  get  so  hot  as  to  bubble. 
When  it  is  possible  to  brown  the  dish  under  the  grate  or 
in  a  gas-broiler,  it  is  better  to  do  that  than  to  put  the 
dish  into  the  oven,  if  the  shrimps  are  to  be  cooked  in 
the  shell.  Great  or  long-continued  heat  at  the  bottom  is 
apt  to  make  the  dish  less  creamy,  and  to  mar  its  appear- 
ance by  causing  the  sauce  to  boil  over  at  the  edge.  This 
is  true  of  all  escaloped  dishes. 

Terrapin. 

One  of  the  most  popular  dishes  at  fashionable  dinners 
and  suppers  is  terrapin  stew.  Gentlemen  usually  are 
especially  fond  of  it.  In  some  parts  of  the  country  only 
the  rich  can  indulge  in  it ;  but  as  the  fish  are  abundant 
in  many  sections  at  some  seasons,  it  is  well  that  more 
should  be  known  about  them. 

Terrapin  are  found  from  Ehode  Island  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  They  vary  considerably  in  size  and  quality  in 
different  localities.  In  the  fall  and  winter  the  finest 
cost  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  dollars  a  dozen  in  the 
Northern  markets ;  at  times,  however,  they  may  be  had 
for  about  one-fourth  of  that  sum.  In  the  South  they  are 
comparatively  cheap,  and  are  usually  larger  than  those 
found  in  the  Northern  markets.  In  winter  terrapin 
often  are  kept  in  pens  for  weeks  or  months.  The  flesh 
is  not  so  good  after  such  captivity.  Rough,  hard  spots 
will  be  found  upon  the  under  shells  of  terrapin  that 
have  been  penned.  The  female  is  the  more  desirable, 
being  larger  and  tenderer. 

There  are  two  modes  of  killing  terrapin.  In  the 
North,  if  the  fish  be  small,  the  common  way  is  to  plunge 
them  into  boiling  water,  like  lobsters.  In  the  South  the 
heads  are  cut  off  and  the  fish  put  in  cold  water  for  about 


FISH.  229 

half  an  hour,  in  order  to  draw  out  the  blood.  After  boil- 
ing the  terrapin,  the  work  is  finished  in  much  the  same 
way  everywhere.  The  time  of  boiling  varies  with  the 
age  of  the  fish.  If  they  be  very  young  they  may  be 
cooked  in  half  an  hour,  but  when  old  they  require  about 
two  hours'  cooking  to  make  them  tender.  Here  is  a 
good  rule  for  cooking  and  cleaning:  — 

If  the  large  Southern  terrapin  be  used,  let  the  fish 
lie  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour;  then  drop  it  into 
boiling  water,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  off  the 
water,  and  after  covering  the  terrapin  with  fresh  cold 
water  for  a  minute,  take  it  up  and  with  a  towel  rub 
the  nails  and  black  skin  from  the  legs.  Wash  care- 
fully, and  place  in  a  stew-pan  with  boiling  water  enough 
to  cover.  Cook  until  the  flesh  is  tender,  which  will  be 
until  the  joints  of  the  legs  can  be  broken  with  a  slight 
pressure.  The  shell  also  will  separate  easily. 

Take  the  terrapin  from  the  water  and  let  it  cool  a 
little.  Place  it  on  its  back,  with  the  head  away  from 
you.  Loosen  and  remove  the  under  shell.  The  liver, 
gall-bladder,  and  sand-bag  will  be  found  near  the  head ; 
the  gall-bladder  attached  to  the  left  side  of  the  liver. 
Take  out  this  bladder,  as  you  would  from  a  chicken ;  also 
take  out  the  sand-bag.  Now  cut  off  the  head  and  throw 
it  away.  All  that  remains  is  to  be  used. 

Take  out  the  eggs,  and  remove  a  slight  film  that  sur- 
rounds them ;  then  drop  them  into  cold  water.  Out  all 
the  meat  very  fine;  the  intestines  finer  than  any  other 
part.  Save  the  water  that  collects  in  the  shells.  The 
terrapin  will  now  be  ready  for  use  in  a  stew  or  in  other 

ways. 

v ' , : 

Terrapin  White  Stew. 

For  six  persons  use  two  large  terrapins,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  pint  of  cream,  two  gills  of 
sherry  or  Madeira,  one  gill  of  water,  the  yolks  of  six 
hard-boiled  eggs,  half  a  lemon,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of 


230          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

salt,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  cayenne,  white 
pepper,  ground  mace,  and  allspice. 

Put  the  fine-cut  terrapin  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  water, 
butter,  the  juices  that  have  collected  in  the  shells,  and 
the  salt,  pepper,  and  spice.  Simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Mash  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  very  fine,  and  gradually  mix 
the  cream  with  them.  Add  this  mixture  and  the  sherry, 
terrapin,  eggs,  and  the  lemon,  cut  in  thin  slices,  to  the 
stew.  Stir  until  the  stew  has  become  thoroughly  heated, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Serve  at  once. 

Small  silver-plated  saucepans  that  hold  about  a  gill 
and  a  half  are  used  for  serving  terrapin  stew.  One  kind 
is  shaped  like  a  terrapin;  the  other  is  round,  with  a 
straight  handle  and  tight-fitting  cover.  When  terrapin 
is  served  in  these  miniature  stew-pans,  it"  is,  of  course, 
sure  to  be  hot,  —  a  great  consideration  as  regards  this 
dish. 

Terrapin  Brown  Stew. 

Use  two  large  terrapins,  a  generous  half-cupful  of 
butter,  one  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  terrapins  were 
boiled,  two  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  half  a  pint 
of  wine,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  cayenne,  white  pepper,  ground  mace, 
and  allspice,  half  a  lemon,  sliced  thin. 

Put  the  terrapin  water  and  meat  of  the  terrapins  on  to 
boil.  Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  heat  it  until  it 
begins  to  turn  brown;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  the 
mixture  until  it  becomes  dark  brown.  Take  it  from  the 
fire,  and  when  it  has  cooled  a  little,  pour  on  it  gradually 
the  water  from  the  terrapins.  Stir  the  liquid  over  the 
fire  until  perfectly  smooth;  then  pour  it  over  the  ter- 
rapins. Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  ten 
minutes.  Now  add  the  spice,  lemon,  and  wine.  Let  the 
stew  get  very  hot,  without  boiling;  then  serve  without 
delay. 


FISH.  231 

Terrapin  au  Gratin. 

Take  two  terrapins,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
half  a  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  terrapins  were 
cooked,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one- 
tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  cayenne,  mace,  and  all- 
spice, one  cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  it 
becomes  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  is 
smooth  and  of  a  light  brown  color ;  then  add  the  water 
and  the  terrapin  and  seasoning.  Simmer  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of  cold 
water  to  them.  Draw  the  stew-pan  back  to  a  cool  place, 
and  stir  the  eggs  into  its  contents.  Have  the  upper 
shells  of  the  terrapins  carefully  cleaned,  and  pour  the 
mixture  into  them.  Sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs,  and 
place  in  a  hot  oven  to  brown.  The  crumbs  should 
acquire  a  rich  color  in  about  ten  minutes. 


232          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


VARIOUS   MODES   OF   COOKING 
MEAT. 

WERE  it  possible  to  teach  every  housekeeper  how  to 
boil,  roast,  and  broil  meat  properly,  one  might  be  satis- 
fied that  a  most  successful  life-work  had  been  accom- 
plished. In  ninety  out  of  a  hundred  households,  grades 
of  meat,  from  the  choicest  to  the  coarsest  pieces,  are 
rained  every  day  in  the  week.  About  half  the  house- 
keepers are  conscious  of  this,  and  it  frets  them  from  day 
to  day,  but  not  enough  to  rouse  them  to  take  steps  toward 
changing  the  condition  of  things.  The  other  half  know 
no  better,  and  go  on  from  year  to  year  giving  their  fami- 
lies meat  cooked  in  such  a  manner  that  it  is  neither 
nutritious  nor  digestible.  Most  wives  and  mothers  are 
anxious  to  do  that  which  is  best  for  their  families.  If 
they  could  be  brought  to  see  the  waste  of  material  and  — 
what  is  more  important  —  the  impairment  of  health,  and 
consequent  loss  of  happiness,  which  improperly  cooked 
food  causes,  they  would  make  constant  efforts  to  bring 
about  a  better  state  of  things.  A  little  thought  and  study 
would  show  where  the  fault  lies,  and  also  what  the  rem- 
edy is.  A  few  general  principles  cover  the  whole  subject 
of  boiling,  roasting,  and  broiling.  Once  understanding 
these,  a  housekeeper  can  3/pply  them  to  the  cooking  of 
all  kinds  of  meat. 

There  are  three  things  to  keep  in  mind  when  cooking 
a  piece  of  meat.  It  should  be  so  cooked  that  it  will  be 
juicy,  well-flavored,  and  as  tender  as  possible.  Now, 
when  albumen  and  fibrine  are  exposed  to  a  temperature 
much  higher  than  the  boiling-point,  they  become  hard 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  233 

and  indigestible,  —  as,  for  example,  if  we  put  an  egg  into 
boiling  water  and  continue  the  boiling  for  four  or  five 
minutes,  we  shall  find  that  the  white  has  become  hard, 
unyielding,  and  indigestible  j  but  if  we  put  the  egg  into 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  ten 
or  more  minutes,  we  shall  find  that  the  white  is  soft 
and  creamy,  and  therefore  digestible.  If  we  should  let 
the  egg  stand  in  water  just  below  the  boiling-point  for 
an  hour  or  more,  we  should  find  that  the  white  would 
yield  under  a  slight  pressure,  and  still  be  soft  and 
digestible. 

The  white  of  the  egg,  being  pure  albumen,  hardens 
when  exposed  to  a  temperature  above  the  boiling-point, 
but  remains  soft  when  kept  just  below  this  temperature. 
Meat  is  largely  made  up  of  albumen  and  fibrine.  Heat, 
when  as  great  as  that  of  boiling  water,  hardens  and 
shrinks  fibrine ;  but  if  the  heat  be  less  than  boiling,  and 
be  continued  with  moisture  for  a  long  time,  it  will  soften 
the  toughest  piece  of  meat. 

Now,  understanding  these  principles,  there  need  be 
no  mistake  in  cooking  meat :  First,  heat,  when  greater 
than  the  boiling-point  in  water,  hardens  and  shrinks 
meat ;  but  when  meat  is  kept  at  the  boiling-point  for 
a  long  time,  it  is  made  tender,  provided  always  that 
there  is  plenty  of  moisture.  Second,  meat,  when  to  be 
roasted  or  boiled,  must  be  exposed  for  the  first  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  to  a  greater  heat  than  the  boiling- 
point,  that  the  surface  may  become  hardened  and  a  crust 
be  formed  to  keep  in  the  juices.  Third,  the  heat 
must  not  be  lower  than  the  boiling-point  while  the  meat 
is  cooking,  that  temperature  being  necessary  for  the 
development  of  the  proper  flavor. 

From  this  we  see  that  the  meat  must  first  be  subjected 
to  a  high  temperature  to  close  the  pores  on  the  surface, 
and  as  soon  as  this  is  accomplished  the  temperature  must 
be  lowered  to  the  boiling-point  (212°),  and  kept  at  that 
degree  until  the  cooking  is  done. 


234          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BOILING. 

For  all  meats  except  ham,  corned  beef,  and  salt  tongue, 
the  water  should  be  boiling  when  the  meat  is  put  in,  and 
when  the  water  begins  to  boil  again  (it  will  be  cooled 
somewhat  when  the  meat  is  put  in),  skim  it,  and  keep  it 
at  the  boiling-point  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  draw  the  kettle  back  where  there  is 
only  enough  heat  to  keep  the  water  at  the  boiling-point. 
If  the  water  bubbles  a  little,  it  is  about  right  for  cooking 
meat.  A  leg  of  mutton  weighing  ten  or  twelve  pounds 
will  be  cooked  moderately  rare  in  two  hours.  A  turkey 
of  about  the  same  weight  will  require  cooking  for  three 
hours  and  a  half,  unless  it  happens  to  be  very  tough, 
when  it  will  require  an  hour  longer  to  make  it  tender. 

A  piece  of  corned  beef  will  take  five  hours  to  cook,  no 
matter  how  small  the  piece  may  be.  If  it  should  weigh 
more  than  eight  pounds,  give  it  an  extra  hour.  It  will 
be  improved  by  letting  it  partially  cool  in  the  water  in 
which  it  was  boiled.  This  is  true  of  all  boiled  meats 
that  are  to  be  used  cold.  Ham  and  smoked  tongue 
should  be  soaked  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours,  and 
should  then  be  boiled  from  five  to  six  hours.  Fowls 
take  from  two  to  four  hours  to  cook. 

If  these  directions  be  followed,  every  piece  of  boiled 
meat  that  comes  to  the  table  will  be  found  tender  and 
juicy.  It  will  cut  smooth ;  whereas  meat  that  has  been 
boiled  rapidly  will  break  into  long  shreds  when  you  at- 
tempt to  cut  it,  and  will  be  found  hard  and  flavorless. 
We  are  all  too  well  acquainted  with  this  kind  of  boiled 
and  roasted  meats.  It  is  time  that  such  waste  of  good 
materials  should  cease. 

ROASTING. 

There  are  three  modes  of  roasting,  —  before  the  fire,  in 
a  tin-kitchen ;  under  a  sheet  of  flame,  in  a  gas-stove ;  or 


VAKIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.          235 

in  the  oven  of  an  ordinary  stove  or  range.  The  last- 
named  mode  is  inferior  to  either  of  the  others ;  still,  as 
the  oven  is  always  available,  while  the  first  two  modes 
may  not  be,  the  greater  part  of  the  roasting  of  meat  is 
done  in  a  close  oven.  Some  ovens  are  so  arranged  that 
the  side  next  the  fire  can  be  opened,  thus  exposing  the 
meat  to  the  clear  coals ;  others  are  so  constructed  that 
there  is  a  constant  circulation  of  fresh  air  through  them, 
giving  one  of  the  elements  which  we  get  by  roasting 
with  an  open  fire  or  with  gas. 

General  Rules. 

No  matter  how  the  roasting  is  done,  a  few  things  must 
always  be  borne  in  mind.  The  heat  should  be  great  at 
first,  so  that  the  surface  of  the  meat  shall  be  hardened, 
to  retain  the  juices ;  but  it  should  afterward  be  de- 


Beef  in  Baking-pan. 

creased,  so  that  the  meat  shall  cook  more  slowly  and 
evenly.  The  meat  should  be  raised  at  least  two  inches 
from  the  bottom  of  the  baking-pan.  There  are  racks 
made  expressly  for  keeping  it  at  the  proper  height. 

Wipe  the  meat  with  a  damp  towel,  and  then  dredge  it 
lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  After  sprinkling  a 
quantity  of  salt  and  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  put 
the  meat  into  the  oven.  Watch  carefully,  and  when  the 


236          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

dry  flour  in  the  pan  turns  a  dark  brown,  put  in  just 
enough  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  After  the 
meat  has  become  browned  it  should  be  basted  every 
quarter  of  an  hour  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan  and  then 
with  salt  and  flour.  Always  use  considerable  gravy,  and 
dredge  only  lightly  with  salt  and  flour.  The  water  in 
the  pan  should  be  renewed  frequently.  Let  the  water 
cook  away  in  the  last  half-hour,  so  that  there  shall  be 
only  fat  and  sediment  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  when 
the  meat  is  done.  When  it  is  done,  lay  it  on  a  warm 
platter. 

After  lifting  the  rack  from  the  pan,  pour  off  the  fat, 
and  scrape  the  sediment  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of 
the  pan.  Place  on  the  stove  in  the  same  pan,  adding  a 
cupful  of  hot  water ;  and  when  it  has  boiled  up  once, 
stir  in  a  thickening  consisting  of  a  teaspoonful  of  flour 
and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Pour  in  only  a  little 
of  this  thickening  at  a  time,  for  it  is  impossible  to  sta^e 
exactly  how  much  will  be  required  for  thickening  the 
gravy.  Let  the  gravy  boil  up  once ;  then  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  strain  into  a  hot  dish. 

Basting  the  meat  faithfully  makes  it  much  juicier  and 
better  flavored  than  when  it  is  basted  only  occasionally. 
Many  cooks  do  not  believe  in  basting  at  all,  and  others 
simply  moisten  the  meat  with  hot  water.  The  result  of 
such  treatment  is  not  perfectly  satisfactory. 

Time  of  Cooking. 

The  time  of  cooking  depends  as  much  upon  the  shape 
of  the  piece  of  meat  as  upon  the  weight. 

Of  beef,  a  rib  or  loin  roast  weighing  about  eight 
pounds  will  require  an  hour's  cooking  if  it  be  wished 
very  rare,  and  an  hour  and  a  half,  if  you  wish  it  to  be  a 
dark  red  all  through.  A  roast  cut  from  the  round  or  the 
rump  of  beef  will  take  half  an  hour  longer  than  that 
cut  from  the  loin  or  ribs. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  237 

A  leg  of  mutton  weighing  ten  or  twelve  pounds  will 
require  an  hour  and  a  half ;  a  loin  or  rack,  an  hour  and 
a  quarter ;  a  saddle,  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Allow 
ten  minutes  for  every  additional  pound  over  eight  or 
ten. 

Lamb  must  be  cooked  more  than  mutton.  A  leg 
weighing  six  or  eight  pounds  should  be  cooked  for  an 
hour  and  a  half.  If  the  loin  chops  be  left  on,  allow  ten 
minutes  longer.  The  fore-quarter  should  be  roasted  for 
an  hour  and  twenty  minutes. 

Veal  and  pork  must  be  thoroughly  cooked.  A  loin  of 
veal  should  be  roasted  for  two  hours  and  three-quarters, 
and  a  loin  of  pork,  three  hours.  A  leg  or  shoulder  of 
pork,  which  is  sometimes  roasted,  requires  five  hours' 
slow  cooking.  Many  persons  like  a  slight  flavor  of  sage 
with  roast  pork.  In  that  case  sift  a  teaspoonful  of  the 
powdered  herb  over  a  piece  of  meat  weighing  six  pounds, 
when  it  is  prepared  for  the  oven. 

BROILING. 

This  is  one  of  the  simplest  forms  of  cookery,  yet  sel- 
dom is  it  well  done.  A  steak  or  chop,  properly  broiled, 
should  have  a  thin,  well-browned  crust.  Beyond  this 
crust  the  meat  should  be  red  and  juicy,  hardly  a  shade 
rarer  at  the  centre  than  near  the  surface.  The  common 
mode  of  cooking  a  steak  is  to  keep  it  over  the  coals 
until  one  side  is  rather  well  done ;  then  to  turn  it  and 
treat  the  other  side  in  the  same  manner.  The  steak, 
when  cut  into,  will,  if  thick,  be  found  well  done  about 
one-third  through  on  each  side  and  almost  raw  in  the 
centre. 

Clear  Coals  Needed  for  Broiling, 

To  broil  properly  there  must  be  a  bed  of  clear  coals. 
The  meat  must  be  placed  in  a  double-broiler,  and  be 
held  near  the  clear  coals  for  about  one  minute,  then  be 


238         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

turned,  and  cooked  on  the  other  side.  Continue  this 
until  the  meat  is  well  seared  on  both  sides.  It  will  take 
about  four  minutes7  cooking.  Now  lift  the  broiler  a  few 
inches  away  from  the  great  heat.  Keep  turning  the 
broiler  constantly  until  the  meat  is  cooked. 

Time  of  Cooking  Meats. 

A  beefsteak  cut  an  inch  thick  will  be  cooked  rare  in 
ten  minutes.  A  mutton-chop  cut  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  thick  will  cook  in  eight  minutes. 

A  chop  or  steak  will  be  much  richer  flavored  if  it  be 
sprinkled  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour  before  cooking. 

Always  serve  a  steak  or  chop  as  soon  as  it  is  cooked. 
Never  put  it  in  the  oven  or  any  other  warm  place  to 
melt  the  butter.  The  dish  on  which  the  broiled  meat  is 
placed  should  be  warm.  The  butter  should  be  spread 
over  the  hot  meat,  and  not  be  melted  in  the  dish.  The 
practice  of  melting  butter  either  before  or  after  it  is  put 
on  the  steak,  except  as  the  heat  of  the  meat  melts  it, 
cannot  be  too  strongly  condemned. 

Veal  and  pork  must  be  broiled  slowly  and  for  a  long 
time.  There  should  not  be  a  trace  of  pink  in  the  fibres 
when  the  meat  is  done.  The  chops  should  not  be  cut 
more  than  half  an  inch  thick.  The,y  will  be  well  done 
with  twelve  minutes'  cooking. 

A  chicken  weighing  three  pounds  will  require  slow 
broiling  for  half  an  hour.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  broil 
chickens  over  a  bright  fire  until  they  are  a  rich  brown  on 
both  sides,  and  then  to  put  them  in  a  shallow  pan  and 
into  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Care  must  be 
taken  not  to  scorch  the  skin. 

FRYING.    *0 

Since  many  people  fry  much  of  their  food,  informa- 
tion as  to  the  best  method  of  frying  seems  desirable. 
The  first  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  fat.  If  expense 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  239 

did  not  stand  in  the  way,  olive  oil  would  be  the  best 
liquid  to  use.  Any  pure,  clear  fat  that  is  free  of  strong 
odor  will  answer.  Many  folk  use  mutton  and  ham  fat, 
and  say  that  they  do  not  find  the  flavor  of  the  meat  in 
the  articles  fried ;  but  others  would  discover  the  taste  at 
once  and  be  disappointed. 

But  the  housekeeper  will  select  the  fat  she  will  use 
according  to  her  taste  and  means ;  and  attention  may  as 
well  be  turned  now  to  the  conditions  which  will  insure 
satisfactory  and  comparatively  wholesome  fried  food.  In 
the  first  place,  the  fat  must  be  perfectly  clarified.  Even 
the  purest  and  sweetest  butter  must  go  through  this  pro- 
cess before  being  used  for  frying.  Oil  and  lard,  when 
pure,  already  are  clarified.  When  the  fat  to  be  clarified 
is  that  which  has  been  skimmed  from  gravies,  soups,  or 
the  water  in  which  corned  beef  has  been  boiled,  it  will 
contain  water  and  other  impurities.  While  there  is 
water  in  fat  the  latter  cannot  be  heated  to  a  temperature 
suitable  for  frying  purposes  ;  and  if  there  be  other  for- 
eign substances  present,  such  as  particles  of  meat,  gravy 
flour,  or  starch,  they  will  burn  at  as  high  a  temperature 
as  345°,  blackening  the  fat  and  making  it  unfit  for  frying 
articles  of  food. 

Processes  of  Clarifying. 

As  soon  as  the  fat  is  skimmed  it  should  be  clarified, 
as  the  water  and  other  objectionable  particles  contained 
in  it  will  cause  it  to  become  rancid  if  it  stands  a  long 
time.  Put  it  on  the  stove,  in  a  frying-pan,  and  heat  it 
slowly.  When  it  becomes  melted,  set  it  where  it  will 
simply  bubble,  and  keep  it  there  (being  careful  not  to 
let  it  burn)  until  there  is  no  motion  and  all  the  sediment 
has  fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  When  this  stage  is 
reached  the  fat  is  clarified. 

Sometimes  fat  that  has  been  used  several  times  for 
frying,  and  has  not  been  strained,  will  become  dark  and 


240          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

unfit  for  use.  This  may  be  put  into  a  kettle  with  about 
six  times  as  much  hot  water,  boiled  for  twenty  minutes, 
turned  into  a  large  pan,  and  set  in  a  cold  place.  When 
the  contents  of  the  pan  become  cold,  the  fat  will  be  found 
in  the  form  of  a  solid  cake  on  the  surface  of  the  water. 
It  must  be  removed,  and  clarified  in  the  manner  already 
described. 

Then  there  is  another  kind  of  fat  which  is  used  a  great 
deal,  —  the  pieces  taken  from  beef,  chicken,  veal,  etc. 
These  should  be  cut  fine,  placed  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
cooked  slowly  until  all  the  oily  particles  are  extracted. 
Strain  the  liquid,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

To  clarify  butter,  put  it  in  a  stew-pan  and  set  it  on 
the  back  part  of  the  range,  where  it  will  heat  slowly. 
When  a  clear,  oily  substance  is  found  on  top,  and  a 
cloudy  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  lift  the  pan 
gently  and  pour  off  the  clear  substance,  which  will  be 
the  clarified  butter. 

How  to  Use  Fat. 

Having  the  fat  in  the  proper  condition  for  use,  the 
next  question  is,  how  to  use  it.  Articles  of  food  are 
fried  in  fat  that  has  been  heated  to  a  temperature  vary- 
iog  from  345°  to  400°  Fahrenheit.  Most  mixtures  com- 
posed in  part  of  flour,  sugar,  milk,  or  eggs  —  like  fritter 
batters,  doughnuts,  etc.  —  may  be  cooked  at  350°  ;  where- 
as such  articles  as  oysters,  white-bait,  croquettes,  etc., 
require  a  heat  of  at  least  400°. 

Put  the  fat  into  a  deep  kettle  (that  called  a  Scotch 
kettle  being  best),  and  heat  it  slowly.  When  the  time 
for  frying  the  food  is  near  at  hand,  set  the  kettle  on  the 
hottest  part  of  the  range,  and  watch  to  see  the  blue 
smoke  rise  from  the  centre  of  the  surface  of  the  liquid. 
The  smoke  indicates  the  temperature  to  be  about  350°. 
Drop  a  piece  of  stale  bread  into  the  fat ;  and  if  one 
minute  be  required  to  brown  it,  the  fat  may  be  used 
at  once  for  frying  muffins,  doughnuts,  fritters,  breaded 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  241 


chops,  and,  indeed,  nearly  all  articles  that  require  three 
or  four  minutes'  cooking. 

Time  of  Cooking  Various  Articles. 

Potatoes  cooked  a  la  parisienne,  and  French  fried  and 
thin  fried  potatoes  need  ten  minutes'  cooking.  The  fat 
must  have  a  temperature  of  about  370°  when  they 
are  put  into  it,  because  the  potatoes  should  stand  in  ice 
water  for  some  time  before  they  are  cooked.  Moisture 
will  cling  to  them;  and  this,  with  their  chilliness, 
reduces  the  fat  at  least  20°  as  soon  as  the  frying 
begins,  making  it  then  350°.  At  this  heat  the  pota- 
toes may  be  cooked  brown  and  crisp  in  ten  minutes.  As 
already  stated,  oysters  require  a  heat  of  400°.  Drop  a 
piece  of  stale  bread  into  the  fat ;  and  if  the  temperature 
be  right,  the  bread  will  become  brown  in  half  a  minute. 
Oysters  and  white-bait  should  be  cooked  brown  and  crisp 
in  one  minute ;  longer  cooking  will  make  them  rather 
tough  and  dry.  A  little  lower  temperature  —  say  380° 
—  will  do  for  croquettes,  which  should  be  fried  about 
two  minutes.  If  the  temperature  be  too  low,  croquettes 
will  burst  open  during  the  cooking;  particularly  rice 
and  potato  croquettes. 

The  Prying-basket. 

An  invention  that  is  growing  fast  in  favor  is  the 
fry  ing-basket.  This  is  made  of  fine  wire.  After  the 
articles  to  be  fried  have  been  put  into  it,  it  should  be 
lowered  into  the  fat;  gently,  because  the  particles  of 
moisture  which  cling  to  the  food  are  instantly  converted 
into  steam,  and  this  would  expand  beneath  the  surface 
and  force  some  of  the  fat  from  the  kettle  if  the  basket 
were  lowered  quickly.  The  operation  may  be  performed 
safely  by  hanging  the  basket  on  a  long  spoon  or  fork, 
and  then  letting  it  settle  gently  in  the  fat.  Do  not 
crowd  into  the  basket  the  articles  that  are  to  be  fried. 


242          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

When  the  food  has  been  cooked  as  long  as  seems  neces- 
sary, lift  the  basket  with  the  spoon  or  fork,  and  after 
allowing  the  fat  to  drip  from  it,  place  it  on  a  plate. 


The  Way  to  Lower  the  Frying-basket. 

Remove  the  cooked  articles,  and  lay  them  on  brown  paper 
that  has  been  spread  on  a  warm  pan.  If  properly  cooked, 
they  will  hardly  stain  the  paper. 

How  to  Keep  Fat. 

When  the  frying  has  been  finished,  take  the  fat  from 
the  fire  and  let  it  cool  slightly.  Next  place  a  piece  of 
cheese  cloth  in  a  colander  or  strainer,  and  after  setting 
this  over  a  jar  or  pail,  strain  the  fat  through  the  cloth. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.          243 

This  straining  never  should  be  omitted ;  for,  with  good 
care,  the  same  fat  may  be  used  several  times,  unless 
doughnuts  have  been  cooked  in  it. 

What  is  Meant  by  "Hot"  Fat. 

It  is  a  pity  that  the  inexperienced  cannot  be  told  in 
a  word  just  what  is  meant  by  "  hot "  fat.  The  word 
"  boiling "  is  misleading ;  many  people  would  wait,  if 
that  were  used,  to  see  the  liquid  in  motion,  as  water  is 
when  hot.  Now,  when  fat  contains  no  foreign  sub- 
stances, and  the  temperature  does  not  rise  above  400°, 
there  is  no  motion  at  all.  One  must  always  wait  until 
the  smoke  rises  from  the  centre  of  the  fat  before 
beginning  to  do  any  frying ;  and  then,  after  applying 
the  bread  test  (see  page  240),  there  can  be  no  difficulty 
in  determining  the  proper  degrees  of  heat  for  the  various 
articles  to  be  fried. 

BRAISING. 

This  mode  of  cooking  is  particularly  adapted  to  pieces 
of  meat  that  are  lacking  in  flavor  or  are  tough.  Braising 
is  a  combination  of  stewing  and  baking.  In  the  days 
when  ovens  were  not  common  the  cooking  was  done  by 
placing  the  braising-pan  on  a  warm  plate  and  heaping 
coals  on  the  cover.  This  is  the  manner  in  which  it  is 
still  done  in  all  small  establishments  in  France.  Brais- 
ing in  the  oven  is  much  easier,  and  the  result  is  the 
same.  A  deep  pan,  with  a  close-fitting  cover,  will 
answer  for  this  purpose ;  but  both  pan  and  cover  must 
be  made  without  solder. 

It  is  usual,  in  braising,  to  use  vegetables  and  herbs  for 
seasoning  the  meat  and  gravy;  but  if  these  flavors  be  not 
liked  they  may  be  omitted. 

*To  Braise  Five  Pounds  of  Meat. 

Spread  in  the  braising-pan  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of 
salt  pork,  cut  iji  slices.  Over  this  spread  one  gill  each 


244          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

of  chopped  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery.  Lay  the 
meat  on  this  bed,  and  dredge  well  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour.  Cover,  and  put  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  half 
an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  one  pint  and  a 
half  of  stock  or  water.  Baste  the  meat  with  some  of 
this  liquid,  and  dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Cook 
for  four  hours  and  a  half,  basting  every  fifteen  minutes. 
At  the  end  of  two  hours  add  another  pint  of  stock  or 
water;  also  mix  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  and  stir  this  mixture  into 
the  gravy.  Cook  the  meat  for  the  last  half-hour  without 
a  cover,  as  it  should  be  a  delicate  brown.  When  done, 
place  it  on  a  warm  dish.  Taste  the  gravy,  to  see  if  more 
salt  or  pepper  is  required.  Strain  the  gravy,  and  pour  a 
part  of  it  over  the  meat.  Send  the  remainder  to  the 
table  in  a  separate  dish. 

These  directions  cover  the  method  of  braising  all  kinds 
of  meat.  The  seasoning  may  be  changed  to  suit  indi- 
vidual or  family  taste.  Veal  and  liver  are  improved  by 
iihe  addition  of  lemon  juice  to  the  gravy. 

Dry  meats  are  better  for  being  larded  on  one  side.  If 
one  object  to  pork,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or 
drippings  may  be  substituted  for  it. 

If  the  flavor  of  herbs  be  liked,  a  bouquet  of  sweet 
herbs  may  be  added  to  the  gravy  the  last  hour  of 
cooking. 

The  time  of  cooking  is  the  same  for  large  or  small 
pieces  of  meat.  The  success  of  a  braised  dish  depends 
upon  slow  cooking.  If  the  gravy  be  allowed  to  bubble, 
the  meat  will  not  be  cooked  to  perfection.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  have  a  grate  or  iron  ring  under  the  braising-pan. 

*  Beef  Stew. 

For  this"  stew  use  two  pounds  of  the  tough  parts  of 
cold  roast  beef  or  beefsteak,  about  two  ounces  of  the  fat 
meat,  six  potatoes,  one  onion,  two  slices  each  of  turnip 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.          245 

and  carrot,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  about  three  tea 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one 
quart  of  boiling  water. 

Cut  the  fat  into  bits,  and  put  it  in  a  frying-pan  and  on 
the  fire.  Cook  slowly  until  there  is  only  about  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  liquid  fat.  Now  take  the  fibrous 
pieces  of  fat  from  the  pan,  and  add  to  the  liquid  fat  the 
onion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  all  cut  fine.  Cook  slowly  for 
ten  minutes;  then  add  the  flour,  stirring  until  it  is 
brown.  Gradually  add  the  water,  stirring  all  the  while, 
and  simmer  for  five  minutes. 

Cut  the  beef  into  small  cubes,  and  put  it  into  a  large 
stew-pan.  Pour  the  contents  of  the  frying-pan  over  the 
meat.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Place  where  the  stew 
will  simmer  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add 
the  six  potatoes,  pared  and  sliced.  Draw  the  saucepan 
forward  where  the  contents  will  cook  a  little  more 
rapidly.  Stir  frequently.  Taste  to  see  if  the  stew 
requires  more  salt  and  pepper.  At  the  end  of  fifteen 
minutes  add  some  dumplings.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and 
cook  for  exactly  ten  minutes,  counting  from  the  time 
the  cover  is  placed  on  the  pan.  Take  up  the  dumplings ; 
then  turn  the  stew  out  on  a  warm  platter.  Garnish  with 
the  dumplings  and  bits  of  parsley. 

Two  pounds  of  the  round  of  beef  may  be  substituted 
for  the  cold  roast  beef. 

*Pot  Roast. 

A  tough  piece  of  meat  can  be  made  very  savory  and 
tender  by  this  mode  of  cooking.  With  a  piece  weighing 
between  six  and  seven  pounds  use  the  following-named 
ingredients  :  three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  cloves,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  one  quart  of  water. 

Wipe  the  meat  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  put  it  into  an 
iron  pot.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  over  the 


246          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


fire  and  brown  slowly,  turning  frequently.  It  will  take 
about  half  an  hour  for  this  cooking.  When  the  meat 
has  been  browned  sufficiently,  put  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
water  into  the  pot,  and  cover  closely.  Set  the  pot  where 
its  contents  will  simmer  for  four  hours.  As  the  water 
steams  away,  add  a  little  more  boiling  water,  —  about 
half  a  pint  at  a  time.  At  the  end  of  the  four  hours  mix 
the  flour  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Take  up  the 
meat,  and  skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy  in  the  pot.  Turn 
the  flour  and  water  into  the  gravy,  and,  placing  the  pot 
in  a  hot  place,  stir  the  gravy  until  it  boils.  Cook  for 
five  minutes.  After  satisfying  yourself  that  the  gravy 
is  seasoned  to  your  taste,  pour  a  small  quantity  over  the 
meat  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  dish. 

Either  boiled  rice  or  potatoes  should  accompany  the 
roast,  besides  any  other  vegetables  you  choose. 

*  Savory  Beef. 

For  this  dish  use  four  pounds  of  the  round  of  beef, 
one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  two  of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  cloves,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one  gill  of  vine- 
gar, half  an  onion,  one  slice  of  carrot,  two  bay  leaves, 
and  one  quart  of  water. 

Wipe  the  meat,  and  rub  into  it  the  salt,  pepper,  sugar, 
and  spice.  Cut  the  onion  into  bits,  and  put  half  of  it 
and  one  bay  leaf  into  the  bottom  of  an  earthen  dish. 
Next  place  the  meat  in  the  dish,  and  sprinkle  the  re- 
mainder of  the  vegetables  over  it.  Pour  the  vinegar 
over  the  meat,  and  after  laying  the  second  bay  leaf  on 
top,  cover  the  dish  closely  and  put  it  away  in  a  cool 
place.  It  should  stand  for  forty-eight  hours.  In  cold 
weather  it  is  a  good  plan  to  extend  the  time  to  three  or 
four  days. 

When  ready  to  cook  the  meat,  take  it  from  the  dish 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.          247 

and  wipe  it  with  a  dry  cloth.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  in  an  iron  pot,  and  place  over  the  fire.  When 
it  becomes  hot,  put  in  the  meat.  Cook  until  brown  on 
one  side,  and  then  turn  and  brown  on  the  other ;  after 
which  move  the  pot  back  where  its  contents  will  cook 
slowly. 

Mix  the  flour  with  one  gill  of  cold  water,  and  stir  it 
into  a  quart  of  boiling  water,  minus  a  gill.  Let  the  mix- 
ture boil  for  ten  minutes ;  then  pour  it  over  the  beef. 
Cover  the  pot  closely,  and  set  it  where  its  contents  will 
simmer  for  five  hours.  The  gravy  must  never  more  than 
bubble.  At  the  end  of  the  five  hours  taste  the  gravy,  to 
ascertain  whether  there  is  enough  seasoning.  Serve  the 
meat  on  a  warm  dish  with  a  little  of  the  gravy  poured 
over  it,  and  send  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  separate  dish. 
This  meat  is  nice  either  hot  or  cold. 

*  Rolled  Flank  of  Beef, —  Cold. 

Use  three  or  four  pounds  of  the  thinnest  part  of  the 
flank.  With  a  sharp  knife  remove  the  thin,  dry  skin 
which  will  be  found  on  one  side  of  the  flank.  Wipe  the 
meat,  and  spread  it  on  a  board.  If  one  part  be  very 
much  thicker  than  another,  cut  a  thin  slice  from  the 
thick  part  and  lay  it  on  the  thin.  Sprinkle  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  over  the 
meat. 

Make  a  dressing  with  one  pint  of  cracker  crumbs,  a 
generous  half-pint  of  cold  water,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
thyme,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  summer  savory,  and  one 
egg.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  except  the  egg,  and  let 
them  stand  for  ten  minutes.  Now  add  the  egg,  well 
beaten.  Spread  this  dressing  on  the  meat.  Now  roll 
the  meat  firmly,  and  tie  rather  loosely  with  twine.  Pin 
it  carefully  in  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  after  placing  it  in  a 


248          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

stew-pan  and  covering  it  with  boiling  water,  simmer  it 
for  five  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  it  from  the 
fire,  but  let  it  stand  in  the  hot  water  for  half  an  hour. 
On  taking  it  from  the  water,  remove  the  cloth,  but  do 
not  take  off  the  strings.  Place  on  a  flat  dish,  putting 
upon  it  a  pan  containing  two  bricks.  Let  the  meat  cool 
under  this  pressure,  and  when  it  is  cold,  cut  it  in  thin 
slices. 

The  water  in  which  the  flank  was  boiled  may  be  used 
as  the  foundation  for  a  tomato  or  vegetable  soup. 

*  Rolled  Flank  of  Beef,  —  Hot. 

Prepare  and  simmer  the  flank  as  directed  for  a  cold 
flank.  When  it  has  been  cooking  for  four  hours,  put 
in  a  stew-pan  three  table-spoonfuls  of  drippings  or  but- 
ter, four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  two  each 
of  chopped  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery,  and  one  sprig  of 
parsley.  Cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  over 
a  hotter  part  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  begins  to  brown. 
Gradually  add  one  generous  pint  of  the  water  in  which 
the  flank  is  cooking.  Add,  also,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  little  pepper. .  Simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain, 
and  skim  off  any  fat  there  may  be  on  the  sauce. 

Remove  the  cloth  and  string,  and  place  the  meat  on  a 
warm  dish.  Pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

This  dish  may  be  garnished  with  little  mounds  of 
cooked  turnip,  carrot,  potato,  or  any  other  vegetable  that 
is  in  season;  or  the  rolled  flank  may  be  served  with 
tomato  sauce. 

*  Hamburg  Steaks. 

Have  the  butcher  chop  two  pounds  of  the  round  of 
beef  very  fine.  Season  it  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  of  onion  juice, 
and  after  shaping  into  thin  cakes,  place  in  a  broiler  that 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  249 

has  been  buttered  slightly,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire  for 
eight  minutes.     Serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Or,  put  four  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  when  they  have  become  crisp  and  brown,  remove 
them,  and  put  the  steaks  into  the  fat.  Fry  for  eight 
minutes,  and  when  they  are  cooked  put  them  on  a  warm 
platter.  Into  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan  put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until  brown ;  then  gradually 
add  a  cupful  of  water,  and  after  seasoning  with  salt  and 
pepper,  boil  for  three  minutes.  Pour  this  gravy  around 
the  steaks,  and  serve  immediately. 

*  Savory  Beef  Collops. 

Use  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  one 
of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one 
pound  of  lean  uncooked  beef,  chopped  rather  fine,  —  it 
may  be  cut  from  the  round,  flank,  or  shoulder,  and  the 
butcher  probably  will  be  willing  to  chop  it  for  you. 

Mix  the  meat,  salt,  pepper,  flour,  and  chopped  parsley. 
Put  the  butter  and  onion  in  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  until 
the  onion  turns  a  delicate  brown  ;  then  add  the  meat  and 
seasoning.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while 
with  a  fork,  and  separating  the  bits  of  meat  during  the 
stirring.  Serve  very  hot.  This  dish  is  nice  for  break- 
fast, luncheon,  or  supper. 

*  Fricandelles. 

For  this  dish  there  will  be  required  one  pound  of  fine- 
chopped  raw  beef  (that  from  the  round  is  best),  ono  cup- 
ful of  dry  bread  crumbs  and  half  a  cupful  of  fresh  ones, 
half  a  cupful  of  meat  stock  or  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and 
one-eighth  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork. 

Soak  the  fresh  bread  in  the  stock  or  milk  foi   two 


250          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

hours ;  then  mash  it  fine,  and  add  it,  together  with  the 
seasoning,  to  the  chopped  beef.  Melt  the  butter,  and 
add  that  also.  Form  the  mixture  into  eight  small  cakes, 
and  roll  these  in  the  dried  crumbs. 

Cut  the  salt  pork  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  until  crisp  ; 
then  remove  it,  and  put  the  fricandelles  into  the  boiling 
fat.  Brown  quickly  on  both  sides,  and  serve  immediately 
on  a  hot  dish,  using  the  slices  of  pork  for  garnishing. 
Cold  roast  beef  will  answer  for  fricandelles,  but  it  is  not 
so  nice  as  raw  meat. 

*  Shaved  Frozen  Beef. 

This  affords  a  pleasant  change  in  winter.  It  is  a  dish 
that  can  be  served  only  in  freezing  weather. 

Get  a  slice  of  round  steak,  cut  thin.  Roll  it  up  tight, 
and  tie  it  in  this  position.  Pin  a  thin  napkin  or  piece 
of  cloth  over  this  roll,  and  hang  up  where  the  meat  will 
freeze  solid.  When  ready  to  cook  the  meat,  shave  off 
thin  slices,  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put 
some  butter  on  the  fire  in  the  fpying-pan,  and  when  it 
gets  hot  put  in  the  shaved  beef.  Cook  for  four  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time  with  a  fork.  Turn  into  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  at  once. 

For  one  pound  of  meat  use  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper.  This  is  a  good  dish  for  breakfast,  tea,  or 
luncheon. 

*  Beef  Sausages. 

Use  three  pounds  of  raw  round  of  beef,  one  pound  of 
beef  suet,  one  pint  of  cold  water,  a  table-spoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  one  generous  tea- 
spoonful  of  sage. 

Chop  the  beef  and  suet  very  fine.  Add  the  seasoning 
and  the  water,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Make  into  small 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  251 

cakes,  and  dredge  these  with  flour.     Fry  for  six  minutes, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

*  Macaroni-and-Meat  Pie. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  will  be  needed  for 
this  dish,  as  well  as  a  quart  of  any  kind  of  cold  meat,  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  two  of  butter,  a  cupful  of  bread 
crumbs,  and  salt  and  pepper  for  seasoning  to  suit  the 
taste. 

Boil  the  macaroni  rapidly  for  twenty  minutes  in  two 
quarts  of  water.  Eub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  and 
gradually  add  to  this  paste  one  generous  pint  of  the 
water  in  which  the  macaroni  was  boiled.  Season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  layer  of  the  macaroni  into  an 
escalop  dish,  and  season  well.  Cover  with  a  part  of  the 
sauce  made  of  the  butter,  flour,  and  water,  and  then  add 
a  layer  of  meat,  well  seasoned.  Continue  putting  in 
these  alternate  layers  —  macaroni,  sauce,  meat,  and  sauce 
—  until  all  the  materials  have  been  used.  Cover  the 
last  layer  with  the  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  slowly  for 
half  an  hour.  For  the  quantities  of  materials  named, 
the  amount  of  seasoning  required  is  about  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

. 

*  Beefsteak  Pie. 

The  materials  used  are  as  follows :  a  quart  of  pieces 
of  cold  steak,  a  gill  of  milk,  a  pint  of  water,  half  a  dozen 
potatoes,  a  slice  of  onion,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  in  quan- 
tities to  suit  the  taste. 

Peel  the  potatoes,  and  put  them  on  to  cook  for  half  an 
hour  in  boiling  water,  enough  to  cover.  While  they  are 
boiling,  cut  the  meat  into  inch  cubes.  Put  the  butter 
and  onion  into  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  until  the  onion 
turns  a  straw  color  ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  it  until 
it  gets  brown.  Gradually  add  the  water,  and  stir  until 


252          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

it  boils.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Season  the  meat, 
also,  and  put  it  into  the  stew-pan.  Simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes, and  then  turn  into  a  deep  escalop  dish,  leaving  at 
least  an  inch  of  space  at  the  top  for  the  potatoes.  When 
the  potatoes  have  cooked  for  half  an  hour,  pour  all  the 
water  away  from  them,  and  mash  them  until  fine  and 
light.  Heat  the  gill  of  milk,  and  add  it  to  the  potato ; 
and  add  also  enough  salt  and  pepper  to  give  the  mixture 
a  seasoning  to  your  acceptance.  Spread  the  potato  in 
the  escalop  dish,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour.  In  that  time  the  potato  should  turn  a  delicate 
brown.  Serve  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  oven. 

Any  kind  of  cold  roast  meat  or  fish  may  be  treated  in 
the  same  way  as  beefsteak. 

*  Shepherd's  Pie. 

Cut  up  enough  cold  roast  beef  to  make  a  quart  of 
small,  thin  slices.  Season  the  meat  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  after  putting  it  into  a  deep  earthen  dish, 
pour  over  it  a  sauce  made  as  follows :  — 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  has  become  hot,  add  two  scant  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour.  Stir  until  this  is  dark  brown,  and  then  add  a 
pint  of  water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil 
for  three  minutes. 

Pare,  boil,  and  mash  eight  good-sized  potatoes ;  then 
add  to  them  a  cupful  of  boiling  milk,  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Spread 
this  preparation  over  the  meat  and  sauce,  beginning  at 
the  sides  of  the  dish  and  working  toward  the  centre. 
Bake  for  thirty  minutes. 

Other  meats  besides  roast  beef  may  be  used  in  a  shep- 
herd's pie. 

*Beef  Pastie. 

Use  for  this  savory  luncheon  dish  two  pounds  of  the 
round  or  flank  of  beef,  enough  raw  potatoes  to  make 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  253 

when  pared  two  quarts  of  small  cubes  ;  three  teaspoon- 
f'uls  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  one  generous  pint  of 
water,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  one  generous 
pint  of  unsifted  flour,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Cut  the  meat  into  cubes,  and  put  it,  together  with  the 
potatoes,  onion,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  the  pepper, 
and  two  teaspoonfuls  and  a  half  of  salt,  into  a  large 
earthen  dish  that  will  hold  a  little  more  than  three 
quarts.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  then  add  the  water.  Cover 
the  dish  with  a  large  plate,  or  anything  else  that  will 
prevent  the  escape  of  steam,  and  set  it  in  a  very  moderate 
oven  for  one  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  mix  the 
remaining  flour,  the  baking-powder,  and  a  scant  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  rub  the  mixture  through  a  sieve. 
RUD  the  butter  into  the  mixture  with  the  hands  ;  then 
add  the  milk,  and  mix  quickly  with  a  spoon.  Sprinkle 
the  moulding-board  with  flour,  and  roll  the  dough  on  it 
until  it  is  the  size  of  the  dish  in  which  the  mixture  is 
baking.  Remove  the  dish  from  the  oven,  and  after  tak- 
ing off  the  cover,  cover  the  dish  with  the  paste.  Return 
to  the  oven,  and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  then  put 
the  dish-cover  over  the  paste,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes 
longer.  Serve  the  pastie  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  pre- 
pared. There  will  be  enough  for  six  or  eight  persons. 
It  is  well  to  pin  a  napkin  around  the  dish. 
• 

*Timbale  of  Cold  Meat. 

For  six  persons,  use  one  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  meat, 
free  of  fat  and  gristle  and  chopped  fine,  one  level  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  cupful  of  stock  or  milk,  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  half  a  cupful  of  grated  bread 
crumbs. 


254          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Mix  the  seasoning  and  bread  crumbs  with  the  meat. 
Heat  the  stock,  and  nielt  the  butter  in  it ;  then  add  the 
stock  and  the  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  to  the  meat.  Mix 
thoroughly,  and  put  into  a  well-buttered  mould  or  bowl. 
Place  this  in  a  pan  of  warm  water,  and  cover  with  a 
piece  of  buttered  paper.  Cook  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven  ;  and  after  turning  out  on  a  warm  dish,  pour  brown 
sauce  around  it. 

Brown  Sauce.  —  Heat  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  begins  to  turn  brown,  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it 
becomes  dark  brown ;  then  draw  the  pan  back  to  a  cooler 
place,  and  gradually  pour  into  it  one  cupful  and  a  half 
of  stock.  If  it  be  inconvenient  to  use  stock,  take  instead 
the  same  quantity  of  milk.  Stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils  ; 
then  let  it  simmer  for  three  minutes.  Season  with  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  tomato  catsup. 

*  Simple  Curry  of  Beef. 

Free  the  meat  of  skin,  fat,  and  bone,  and,  cutting  it 
into  rather  small  pieces,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper. 
For  a  quart  of  meat  allow  a  sauce  made  as  follows,  in- 
creasing the  quantities  of  the  ingredients  in  the  proper 
proportion  if  there  be  more  than  a  quart :  — 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan 
with  half  an  onion,  cut  fine.  Cook  slowly  for  eight 
minutes ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  curry-powder.  Stir  until  perfectly  smooth 
and  brown.  If  you  have  it,  add  a  pint  of  stock ;  if  not, 
add  that  quantity  of  water.  Stir  until  it  boils,  and  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper. 

Strain  this  sauce  upon  the  meat,  and  cook  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  minutes.  Pour  into  the  centre  of  a  border  of 
plain  boiled  rice. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  255 

*  Fricassee  of  Cold  Roast  Beef. 

The  materials  required  are  a  quart  of  cold  roast  beef, 
cut  in  thin  slices  and  almost  free  of  fat,  three  gills  of 
stock,  or  the  water  in  which  the  bones  of  the  beef  have 
been  boiled,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  scant 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  generous  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  onion,  and  half  a  cupful  of  strained  tomato. 

Put  the  butter  and  onion  in  a  large  frying-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  draw  the  pan  forward 
and  add  the  flour,  stirring  all  the  while,  and  until  the 
mixture  becomes  dark  brown.  Gradually  add  the  stock. 
Stir  for  one  minute  ;  then  let  the  sauce  simmer  for  five 
minutes. 

Sprinkle  the  meat  with  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  put 
it  in  a  stew-pan.  Add  the  strained  tomato,  and  then 
strain  the  sauce  over  the  meat.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and 
cook  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Serve  at  once.  It  will  not 
spoil  the  dish  to  omit  the  onion. 

*  Savory  Beef  Collops. 

Use  a  quart  of  cold  roast  beef,  chopped  very  fine ;  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  four  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  onion,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  stock  made  of  the  bones  and 
hard  bits  of  the  roast  beef. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
it  gets  hot,  add  the  onion  and  parsley.  Cook  the  onion 
until  it  turns  a  light  brown;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir 
the  liquid  until  it  becomes  smooth.  Next  add  the  stock, 
and  cook  for  two  minutes ;  then  add  the  meat,  salt,  and 
pepper,  and  stir  the  mixture  thoroughly.  Cover  the  pan, 
and  set  it  back  where  its  contents  will  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Turn  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish 
with  small  slices  of  toast  or  a  few  bits  of  parsley. 


256          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cold  steak  or  raw  beef,  chopped  fine,  may  be  used  for 
collops.  When,  however,  uncooked  beef  is  taken,  the 
cooking  should  be  continued  only  five  minutes  after  the 
meat  is  put  with  the  sauce. 

*  Hashed  Beef  on  Toast. 

Chop  pieces  of  cold  roast  beef  rather  fine,  and  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper.  To  each  pint  of  meat  add  a 
level  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  well,  and  add  a  small 
teacupful  of  soup  stock  or  water.  Put  the  mixture  into 
a  small  stew-pan,  and  after  covering,  simmer  gently  for 
twenty  minutes.  Meanwhile  toast  six  slices  of  bread 
nicely,  and  at  the  end  of  the  twenty  minutes  spread  the 
beef  upon  them.  Serve  immediately  on  a  hot  dish. 

If  water  be  used  instead  of  soup  stock,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  just  before  spreading  the  beef  on  the 
toast.  Any  kind  of  cold  meat  may  be  served  in  this 
manner. 

*  Frizzled  Beef. 

With  a  very  sharp  knife,  cut  about  one-third  of  a 
pound  of  dried  beef  into  slices  as  thin  as  shavings. 
Beat  together  six  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  milk, 
and  season  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has 
become  melted,  put  in  the  shaved  beef.  Stir  over  a  hot 
fire  until  the  meat  begins  to  curl;  then  draw  the  pan 
back  where  there  is  less  heat,  and  add  the  mixture  of 
eggs  and  milk.  Stir  until  the  egg  begins  to  thicken; 
then  pour  into  a  warm  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

*   *  -f      r-»          r 

*  Creamed  Beef. 

Shave  half  a  pound  of  dried  beef  into  thin  slices.  Put 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  as 
soon  as  it  is  melted,  add  the  meat.  Stir  until  the  slices 
begin  to  curl ;  then  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  when  the 
milk  boils,  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  mixed  smooth 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  257 

with,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk.     Season  with  pepper. 
Boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

*  Braised  Shoulder  of  Veal. 

When  ordering  eight  pounds  of  the  shoulder,  direct  the 
butcher  to  remote  the  bones,  but  to  send  them  with  the 
veal.  There  will  also  be  needed  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  salt  pork,  a  pint  of  cracker  crumbs,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  onion,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  thyme,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  summer  savory,  some  cold  water,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  three  leaves  of  celery,  if  they  may  be 
obtained. 

Put  the  bones  into  a  stew-pan  containing  three  pints 
of  cold  water,  and  cook  gently  for  an  hour.  Cut  the  pork 
into  thin  slices,  and  fry  it  slowly  in  a  large  frying-pan 
during  the  same  period.  Mix  the  butter,  herbs,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  an  even  table-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
cupful  of  cold  water,  and  the  pint  of  cracker  crumbs. 
Spread  the  veal  on  a  board,  and,  after  sprinkling  it  lightly 
with  pepper  and  generously  with  salt,  spread  over  it  the 
dressing  which  has  just  been  made.  Koll  up  the  meat 
and  tie  it  with  soft  twine,  being  careful  not  to  draw  the 
twine  very  tight.  Dredge  the  roll  with  flour,  covering 
it  thickly.  Eemove  the  pork  from  the  frying-pan,  and 
set  the  pan  where  the  fat  which  it  contains  will  become 
very  hot.  Lay  the  veal  in  the  fat,  and  brown  it  on 
all  sides  ;  then  transfer  it  to  a  deep  tin  or  granite-ware 
pan. 

Cook  the  spoonful  of  chopped  onion  for  one  minute  in 
the  fat  remaining  in  the  frying-pan  ;  then  add  whatever 
quantity  of  flour  may  have  been  left  from  the  six  spoon- 
fuls provided  for  dredging  the  meat,  and  stir  it  until  it 
turns  brown.  Gradually  add  the  water  in  which  the 
bones  were  simmered.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils 
up ;  then  season  to  your  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 

17 


258          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

pour  it  over  the  roll  of  veal.  If  there  be  any  celery  leaves, 
add  them  now.  Cover  the  pan,  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  cook  the  meat  for  three  hours,  basting  fre- 
quently. At  serving-time  place  the  veal  on  a  warm  dish, 
and,  after  removing  the  strings,  strain  the  gravy  over  it. 

Loin  of  Veal  a  la  Jardiniere. 

This  is  an  elegant  dish,  well  worth  the  pains  needed  for 
its  preparation.  The  articles  required  for  making  it  are 
a  loin  of  veal  weighing  about  seven  pounds,  two  ounces  of 
salt  pork,  one  pint  each  of  turnips,  carrots,  and  potatoes, 
cut  into  cubes,  a  pint  of  green  peas,  a  small  cauliflower, 
an  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  a  stalk  of  celery,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  four  of 
butter,  one  of  flour,  and  some  salt  and  pepper  for  season- 
ing purposes. 

With  a  sharp  knife  remove  the  backbone  from  the 
meat.  This  will  separate  the  tenderloin  and  kidneys 
from  the  rest  of  the  meat.  Put  them  back ;  and  after 
seasoning  the  meat  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  it  up 
and  fasten  it  with  skewers.  Butter  two  large  sheets  of 
fool's-cap  paper,  and  cover  the  meat  with  them,  tying 
them  on  with  twine  ;  then  put  the  loin  in  a  cool  place 
until  the  time  for  cooking  comes. 

Next  break  up  the  bone  taken  from  the  meat.  Cut  the 
pork  into  thin  slices,  and,  putting  it  into  a  frying-pan, 
cook  it  slowly  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  the  onion,  cut 
fine,  and  cook  it  until  it  has  acquired  a  light  brown  color. 
Add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  becomes  dark  brown. 
Gradually  add  three  pints  of  cold  water.  Put  the  bones 
and  herbs  into  a  stew-pan,  and  pour  the  contents  of  the 
frying-pan  over  them.  Cook  gently  for  an  hour. 

Mix  the  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water, 
and  stir  it  into  the  boiling  mixture  in  the  stew-pan. 
Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  lemon 
juice.  Put  the  loin  of  veal  into  a  deep,  narrow  pan,  and 
strain  over  it  half  of  the  liquor  from  the  stew-pan.  Place 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  259 

f 

the  meat  in  a  very  moderate  oven,  and  cook  for  three 
hours,  basting  every  fifteen  minutes  with  the  gravy  in 
the  pan.  When  the  meat  has  been  cooking  for  an  hour 
and  a  half,  strain  over  it  the  gravy  remaining  in  the 
stew-pan.  At  serving-time  remove  the  sheets  of  paper 
from  the  loin,  and  withdraw  the  skewers.  Place  the 
meat  on  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
gravy  over  it.  Arrange  the  vegetables  in  little  groups 
around  the  meat ;  serve  the  gravy  in  a  separate  dish. 

If  you  do  not  like  pork,  use,  instead,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  or  oil  when  frying  the  onion  for 
the  gravy.  Each  vegetable  should  be  cooked  separately, 
and  in  boiling  water  in  plenty.  Cook  the  turnips  and 
carrots  for  half  an  hour ;  the  cauliflower,  broken  into 
flowerets,  twenty  minutes ;  the  peas,  from  twenty  to 
fifty  minutes,  being  guided  by  their  age ;  the  potatoes, 
if  cut  into  half-inch  cubes,  twelve  minutes.  Except  in 
the  case  of  the  potatoes  (which  must  be  drained  dry,  and 
have  only  some  salt  added),  pour  almost  all  the  water 
away  from  each  vegetable,  and  add  to  each  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  butter.  Boil  rapidly  for  a  minute,  shak- 
ing all  the  while,  and  then  set  back  where  they  will  keep 
hot  until  serving-time. 

Not  much  more  trouble  is  required  for  preparing  this 
dish  than  for  preparing  the  ordinary  roast  of  veal,  and 
the  change  is  a  pleasing  one.  These  full  directions  make 
the  process  appear  harder  than  it  really  is. 

*  Brown  Fricassee  of  Veal. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  veal  into  thin  slices,  and  dredge 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  salt  pork  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  until  crisp  and 
brown,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  When  the  pork  is 
done,  take  it  up,  and  put  the  veal  into  the  fat  remaining 
in  the  pan.  Fry  the  meat  until  it  is  well  browned;  then 


260          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

• 

remove  it  from  the  pan,  and  put  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  into  the  fat.  Cook  it  until  it  has  become  rich 
brown,  and  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold 
water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  after  the  sauce 
has  boiled  up  once,  put  the  veal  into  it,  and  simmer  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

This  is  a  nice  dish  for  luncheon,  when  served  in  a 
border  of  rice,  hominy,  mashed  potatoes,  or  hot  small 
cream-of-tartar  biscuit. 

*  Blanquette  of  Veal. 

Use  three  pounds  of  veal  (taken  from  the  shoulder  or 
neck),  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  four  of  but- 
ter, three  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a 
quart  of  water,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Cut  the  veal  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square,  and 
roll  these  in  the  flour.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  hot,  put  in  the  veal.  Cook  the 
meat  until  it  is  a  delicate  brown  on  both  sides  ;  then  re- 
move it  to  a  deep  stew-pan.  Put  the  onion  into  the  but- 
ter remaining  in  the  frying-pan,  and  stir  for  two  minutes ; 
then  add  the  flour  in  which  the  meat  was  rolled,  and  stir 
until  it  turns  brown.  Gradually  pour  in  the  cold  water, 
and  when  the  gravy  begins  to  boil,  pour  it  over  the  veal. 
Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  cover  the  stew-pan 
and  set  it  where  its  contents  will  only  simmer  during 
the  next  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the 
parsley,  and  taste  the  blanquette,  to  be  sure  that  there 
is  enough  seasoning.  Serve  with  Turkish  rice,  plain 
rice,  or,  indeed,  with  any  vegetable. 

*Veal  Pillau. 

This  is  a  savory  and  economical  mode  of  preparing 
veal,  three  pounds  cut  from  the  neck  and  shoulder  being 
used.  The  other  materials  needed  are  a  cupful  of  rice, 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  261 

three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
salt  pork,  an  onion,  three  large  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half 
a  teaspoonf ul  of  pepper,  half  a  cupful  of  strained  tomato, 
and  four  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 

Cut  the  veal  into  small  pieces,  and  season  well  with 
salt.  Chop  the  onion  fine,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan 
with  the  butter.  Stir  until  the  onion  turns  a  light  straw- 
color  ;  then  add  the  veal,  and  stir  until  that  is  browned 
a  little,  being  careful  not  to  burn  the  onion.  Add  the 
tomato  and  a  cupful  of  the  water,  and  simmer  gently  for 
an  hour  and  a  half.  Now  add  the  other  three  cupfuls  of 
boiling  water,  the  salt,  pepper,  and  the  rice,  after  washing 
the  latter  carefully  in  three  waters.  Heat  the  mixture 
to  the  boiling-point ;  then  cover  closely,  and  set  back 
where  it  will  cook  slowly  for  an  hour.  The  rice  will  ab- 
sorb almost  all  the  liquid  and  be  tender,  yet  every  grain 
should  be  distinct.  Turn  the  pillau  out  upon  a  platter, 
and  garnish  with  parsley. 

*  Curry  of  Veal. 

First  cut  four  pounds  of  veal  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  square.  Cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork 
into  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly  in  the  soup-kettle.  Add 
a  large  onion,  cut  fine,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  turn  a 
light  straw-color,  add  the  veal.  Cover  the  kettle,  and 
set  it  back  where  the  dish  will  cook  slowly  for  an  hour. 
Give  a  stirring  frequently,  and  at  the  end  of  the  hour 
add  a  cupful  of  stewed  tomato  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
boiling  water.  Stir  well,  and  place  the  kettle  where  the 
dish  will  cook  slowly  for  another  hour ;  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  curry-powder,  mixed  with  one-third  of  a  cup- 
ful of  cold  water.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Simmer  half  an  hour  longer,  and  serve  on  a  flat  dish, 
with  a  border  of  boiled  rice. 

Mutton,  beef,  and  lamb  may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner. 


262          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Minced  Veal  on  Toast. 

The  bits  of  veal  left  from  a  dinner  may  be  utilized  the 
next  morning.  Chop  them  fine,  and  to  each  pint  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  After  mixing  well, 
add  half  a  cupful  of  stock  or  water.  Simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes  ;  then,  after  stirring  in  a  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter, spread  the  hash  on  slices  of  toast.  Serve  very  hot. 
Thin  slices  of  lemon  laid  around  the  toast  increase  its 
attractiveness  considerably. 

Terrapin  Veal. 

- 

The  list  of  materials  is  long,  yet  the  dish  is  worth  it : 
two  pounds  of  veal  cut  from  the  leg,  six  hard-boiled 
eggs,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  stock  or  water, 
two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  large  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion, 
a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  piece  of  cinna- 
mon about  half  an  inch  long,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  a  clove,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  the  onion  and  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  to  cook 
slowly  for  five  minutes.  Meanwhile  cut  the  veal  into 
small  cubes,  and  at  the  end  of  five  minutes  put  it  with 
the  butter  and  onion,  and  draw  the  pan  forward  to  a  hot 
part  of  the  range.  Stir  until  the  meat  begins  to  brown  ; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  a  moment  longer,  being  care- 
ful not  to  burn.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  pour 
in  the  stock,  stirring  all  the  while.  Now  put  in  all  the 
seasoning  except  the  lemon  juice,  having  the  whole  spice 
tied  up  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  When  the  dish  boils,  cover 
it  closely  and  set  back  where  it  will  only  simmer  for  two 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  remove  the  whole  spice, 
and  add  the  cream  and  boiled  eggs,  the  latter  chopped 
rather  fine.  Satisfy  yourself  by  tasting  that  there  is 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF.  COOKING  MEAT.  263 

seasoning  enough.  Heat  the  dish  to  the  boiling-point, 
and  after  adding  the  lemon  juice,  serve  very  hot.  If 
you  choose  you  may  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
with  the  juice. 

This  dish  may  be  made  with  cold  veal,  the  mode  of 
cooking  being  the  same.  Sometimes  only  two  eggs  are 
used,  a  few  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms  being 
substituted  for  the  other  four. 


Jellied  Veal. 

Use  a  knuckle  of  veal  weighing  about  four  pounds, 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  minced  onion,  two  of  minced  carrot,  one  of 
parsley,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  piece  of  cinnamon  about  an  inch 
long,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
three  pints  of  water. 

Have  the  knuckle  of  veal  broken  into  several  pieces. 
Wash  it,  and  put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  water.  Tie 
up  all  the  seasonings,  except  the  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon, 
in  a  piece  of  muslin,  and  put  them  in  the  stew-pan  with 
the  veal.  Place  the  stew-pan  on  the  fire,  and  when  the 
contents  begin  to  boil,  skim  carefully.  Cook  slowly  for 
four  hours,  and  then  take  up  the  meat  and  free  it  from 
the  bones.  Let  it  cool,  and  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  meat  in  a  clean  stew-pan,  and  strain  over  it  the 
water  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Now  add  the  salt,  pepper, 
and  lemon  juice,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

Slice  the  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  arrange  some  of  them 
in  a  circle  on  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mould.  Now  put 
in  a  layer  of  the  stewed  veal  and  then  a  layer  of  egg, 
and  continue  in  this  way  until  all  the  materials  are  used. 
Set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  three  or  four  hours. 

At  serving-time  dip  the  mould  into  warm  water  for  a 
few  moments,  and  then  loosen  the  contents  by  slipping 
a  knife  between  the  jellied  meat  and  the  mould.  Turn 


264          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  garnish  with  parsley  or  water- 
cresses. 

*  Veal  Loaf. 

Use  for  this  dish  five  pounds  of  veal,  cut  from  the  leg, 
one  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs,  powdered  fine,  one  cupful 
and  a  half  of  stock,  three  eggs,  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  fat  salt  pork,  one-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  dried  bread 
crumbs,  one  table-spoonful  of  fine  chopped  onion;  one 
scant  teaspoonful  of  thyme,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sweet 
marjoram,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  summer  savory,  three 
generous  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Chop  the  veal  and  pork  exceedingly  fine.  Add  to  the 
chopped  mixture  the  crackers,  seasoning,  two  of  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  one  cupful  of  the  stock.  Mix  well  with 
the  hands.  Next,  butter  the  bottom  of  a  flat  cake-pan. 
Form  the  mixture  into  a  loaf  about  three  inches  and  a 
half  high  and  five  wide,  and  place  this  in  the  buttered 
pan.  Beat  the  third  egg  well,  and  spread  it  on  the  loaf 
with  a  brush  or  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth.  Now  sprinkle  the 
meat  with  the  fine  bread  crumbs.  Put  it  into  a  rather 
hot  oven,  and  cook  for  three  hours,  basting  frequently 
with  the  remaining  half-cupful  of  stock,  in  which  the 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  should  be  melted.  Serve 
with  the  veal  loaf  a  sauce  made  as  follows  :  — 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  on  the  stove  in  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  stir  in  two 
level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and 
brown ;  then  draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  one 
large  cupful  of  stock  or  milk.  Boil  for  three  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  while ;  then  set  the  sauce  back  where  it 
will  keep  hot. 

Pour  the  gravy  which  is  in  the  pan  into  that  which 
has  just  been  made.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
pour  around  the  meat,  or  serve  it  in  a  separate  dish. 

Veal  loaf  may  be  served  cold  for  luncheon  or  supper. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  265 

Leg  of  Lamb  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Use  a  leg  weighing  about  seven  or  eight  pounds.  Put 
it  into  as  small  a  kettle  as  will  contain  it,  and  cover 
with  boiling  water  (two  quarts  should  be  enough).  Put 
into  a  muslin  bag  an  onion,  half  a  small  carrot,  half  a 
small  turnip,  two  cloves,  four  allspice,  and,  if  you  have 
them,  four  leaves  of  celery.  Tie  the  bag  and  put  it  into 
the  kettle  with  the  meat.  Mix  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  with  one  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  this  thicken- 
ing into  the  hot  water  in  the  kettle.  Add  four  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  of  pepper-  Cover,  and  heat  to 
the  boiling-point ;  then  skim  carefully,  and  set  the  kettle 
back  where  the  water  will  just  bubble  for  four  hours. 
Place  the  meat  on  a  large  warm  dish,  and  pour  some  of 
the  gravy  around  it.  Arrange,  in  little  groups  about  the 
leg,  carrots,  turnips,  and  peas,  cooked  a  la  jardiniere,  and 
serve  at  once. 

The  gravy  left  from  the  dish  will  be  a  good  foundation 
for  a  thick  vegetable  soup. 

Broiled  Breast  of  Lamb. 

Use  a  breast  of  lamb  weighing  about  three  pounds, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  cloves,  a  bay  leaf,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a 
generous  pint  of  water. 

Bone  the  meat,  and  lay  it  flat  in  a  stew-pan,  putting 
the  bones  on  top  of  the  meat.  Put  the  butter  and  onions 
in  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Gradu- 
ally add  the  water  and  afterward  the  seasoning.  After 
simmering  for  ten  minutes,  pour  over  the  meat  in  the 
stew-pan.  Cover,  and  simmer  for  an  hour  and  a  half  j 
then  take  up  the  meat  and  put  it  on  a  flat  dish.  Place 
on  top  of  it  another  flat  dish  or  a  tin  sheet  on  which 


266          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

rests  a  brick  or  some  other  weight.  Set  away  in  a  cool 
place.  In  the  morning  remove  the  weight,  and  after 
trimming  the  edges  of  the  meat,  broil  over  a  hot  fire  for 
ten  minutes.  Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

A  nice  sauce  to  go  with  the  lamb  may  be  easily  made. 
As  soon  as  the  meat  is  put  away  to  get  pressed,  strain 
the  liquor  in  which  it  was  simmered.  When  it  gets  cold, 
skim  off  the  fat.  In  the  morning  put  the  sauce  on  the 
stove  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  gets  hot,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  walnut  or  tomato  ketchup. 

Broiled  breast  of  lamb  is  a  good  dish  for  luncheon  or 
supper  as  well  as  for  breakfast.  A  breast  of  mutton  may 
be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

*  Fricassee  of  Lamb,  with  Baked  Dumplings. 

Cut  up  enough  cold  lamb  to  make  a  quart  of  dice  each 
about  an  inch  square,  and  after  seasoning  the  meat  with 
salt  and  pepper,  put  it  into  a  rather  shallow  dish,  and 
pour  over  it  a  sauce  made  as  follows  :  — 

Put  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  becomes  hot  add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Cook 
until  brown,  and  then  add  a  scant  pint  of  water.  When 
the  sauce  boils  up,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
pour  over  the  meat. 

Set  the  dish  containing  the  meat  and  sauce  into  the 
oven,  and  make  some  dumplings  in  the  following 
manner :  — 

Mix  together  in  a  sieve,  and  then  rub  through  it,  a  pint 
of  unsifted  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  baking- 
powder.  Rub  into  the  mixture  half  a  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  and  then  wet  it  with  a  small  cupful  of  milk. 
Roll  out  the  dough,  and  cut  it  into  very  small  biscuit. 

Remove  the  meat  from  the  oven,  and  place  the  biscuit 
or  dumplings  upon  it ;  then  return  to  the  oven,  and  bake 
for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  the  fricassee  imme- 
diately in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  cooked. 


VARIOUS  MODES   OF   COOKING  MEAT.  267 

*  Lamb  Warmed  in  Curry  Sauce. 

After  freeing  a  quantity  of  cold  lamb  of  skin,  fat,  and 
bone,  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper;  then  make  a  sauce  according  to  the  following 
rule,  in  which  the  quantities  stated  are  sufficient  for  a 
quart  of  meat :  — 

Put  into  a  frying-pan  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
and  half  a  small  onion,  cut  fine,  and  cook  slowly  for 
eight  minutes ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  and  stir  until  per- 
fectly smooth ;  gradually  add  a  pint  of  stock,  and  stir 
the  sauce  until  it  boils ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
cook  for  three  minutes. 

When  the  sauce  is  finished,  strain  it  upon  the  meat, 
and  cook  both  together  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes. 
Serve  in  a  border  of  boiled  rice. 

*  Ragout  of  Cold  Lamb. 

Free  a  quantity  of  cold  roast  lamb  of  fat  and  bone, 
and  cut  it  into  delicate  slices.  For  one  quart  of  the  pre- 
pared meat  use  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of 
chopped  onion,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a 
quart  of  water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  stewed  tomato,  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  some 
salt  and  pepper. 

Put  the  bones  and  water  into  a  saucepan,  and  let  them 
simmer  for  an  hour;  then  add  the  onion,  tomato,  and 
parsley,  and  simmer  half  an  hour  longer.  Strain  the 
mixture ;  there  should  be  about  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the 
liquid.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
gets  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until  the  flour 
turns  dark  brown ;  then  gradually  add  the  strained  liquor, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Season  the  meat  also, 
and  stir  it  into  the  sauce.  Add  the  hard-boiled  eggs, 
chopped  rather  fine.  Simmer  for  five  minutes,  and  serve 
very  hot.  Any  kind  of  meat  may  be  used  for  a  ragout.  . 


268          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Put  into  a  kettle  and  cover  with  boiling  water  a  leg  of 
mutton  weighing  about  twelve  pounds.  Add  a  cupful  of 
well-washed  rice.  When  the  water  boils,  skim  it  care- 
fully. Let  it  boil  rapidly  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  set 
the  kettle  back  where  it  will  only  simmer  for  two  hours. 
The  meat  will  then  be  red  in  the  centre,  and  blood  will 
follow  the  knife.  If  you  prefer  to  have  the  mutton 
better  done,  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer.  The  use  of  rice 
makes  it  whiter  and  tenderer.  Serve  with  caper  sauce. 

The  water  in  the  kettle  may  be  used  the  next  day  for 
a  soup. 

Stuffed  and  Rolled  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

This  is  a  nice  dish  for  a  small  family.  Buy  a  shouldei 
of  mutton  weighing  from  three  to  four  pounds,  and  have 
the  butcher  remove  the  bones,  which  should  be  saved. 
Wipe  the  meat  carefully,  and  dredge  it  generously  with 
salt  and  pepper,  using  about  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Make  a  dressing  by  soak- 
ing one  cupful  and  a  half  of  stale  bread  in  one-third  of 
a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  adding  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion, 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one- fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  summer  savory,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  thyme,  and  one  well-beaten  egg.  After  spreading 
the  meat  with  this  dressing,  roll  it  up.  Fasten  with 
skewers,  and  place  it  on  the  rack  in  a  meat-pan.  Put  the 
bones  which  were  taken  from  the  meat  and  half  a  pint 
of  water  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Cook  in  a  hot 
oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  basting  half  a  dozen 
times  with  the  water  in  the  pan,  and  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour.  If  the  water  cook  away,  add  more  from  time  to 
time. 

When  the  meat  is  done,  place  it  on  a  hot  platter. 
Skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and  add  water 


VARIOUS   MODES   OF   COOKING   MEAT.  269 

enough  to  make  half  a  pint  of  gravy.  Thicken  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  mixed  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water.  Boil  for  a  minute,  and  then  ascertain  whether 
any  more  seasoning  is  needed.  Have  the  meat  hot  when 
it  goes  to  the  table. 

*  Stuffed  Fillet  of  Mutton. 

Remove  the  bone  from  the  remainder  of  a  roast  leg  of 
mutton.  Season  the  meat  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
place  it  on  a  tin  plate  or  sheet  in  a  baking-pan.  Cut  an 
onion  in  halves,  and  rub  it  over  the  meat.  Pare,  boil, 
and  mash  ten  good-sized  potatoes,  and  season  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  a  scant  table -spoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  half  a  cupful  of  hot 
milk.  Fill  with  potato  the  space  left  vacant  by  the  re- 
moval of  the  bone,  and  heap  the  remainder  of  the  potato 
upon  the  meat.  Pour  around  the  mutton  a  sauce  made 
as  follows :  — 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  when  it  is  hot,  add  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Stir  the  sauce  until  it  becomes  dark  brown ;  then  add, 
very  slowly,  a  pint  of  stock  made  with  the  bones  from 
the  mutton,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  for 
two  minutes.  This  sauce  will  be  thin,  but  it  will  thicken 
as  it  is  cooked. 

When  the  sauce  has  been  poured  around  the  meat, 
place  the  baking-pan  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Cook 
the  meat  for  an  hour,  basting  it,  and  the  potato  too, 
every  fifteen  minutes  with  the  sauce.  At  the  end  of 
the  hour  beat  two  eggs  rather  light,  and  spread  over  the 
meat  and  potato.  Ten  minutes  later  remove  the  pan 
from  the  oven.  Place  the  meat  on  a  warm  platter,  and 
pour  the  sauce  around  it.  Garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Veal  or  lamb  may  be  served  in  the  same  manner. 


270          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Broiled  Breast  of  Mutton. 

For  a  family  of  six  or  seven,  get  two  breasts  of  mut- 
ton. Cut  out  the  backbones, — which  may  be  used  in 
making  stock,  —  and  season  the  meat  well  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  dredge  it  lightly  with  flour.  Broil  over  a 
clear  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  warm  dish 
with  Soubise  sauce. 

*  Ragout  of  Mutton. 

For  six  persons  use  three  pounds  of  the  shoulder  of 
mutton,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped 
onion,  one  quart  of  potatoes,  measured  after  being  pared, 
and  cut  into  half-inch  cubes,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  three  of  butter,  three  pints  of  boiling  water,  and 
enough  salt  and  pepper  to  season  the  dish  well. 

Cut  most  of  the  fat  from  the  meat,  and  then  cut  the 
meat  into  small  pieces.  Season,  and  roll  in  flour.  After 
putting  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  put  in  also  all  the 
vegetables,  except  the  potatoes,  cut  fine.  Cook  slowly 
for  five  minutes,  and  then  add  the  meat.  Stir  the  con- 
tents of  the  pan  over  a  hot  fire  until  they  acquire  a 
golden-brown  color  ;  then  turn  into  a  large  stew-pan,  and 
pour  the  boiling  water  over  them,  reserving  a  little,  how- 
ever, with  which  to  wash  off  any  part  of  the  mixture 
which  may  cling  to  the  frying-pan.  Cook  gently  for  an 
hour  and  a  half.  At  the  end  of  that  time  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  potatoes.  With  half 
an  hour's  further  cooking  the  dish  will  be  finished. 

*  Irish  Stew. 

For  this  stew  use  two  pounds  of  the  shoulder  of  mut- 
ton, a  pint  and  a  half  of  peeled  and  sliced  onion,  three 
pints  of  pared  and  sliced  potatoes,  one  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  three  generous  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  minced  parsley. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  271 

Cut  all  the  fat  from  the  mutton,  and  put  about  two 
ounces  of  it  in  a  stew-pan  and  on  the  fire.  Be  careful 
not  to  put  in  any  of  the  thin  skin  that  covers  the  fat,  as 
this  would  give  the  stew  a  strong  flavor.  Cook  the  fat 
slowly,  until  there  is  about  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
liquid  fat.  Remove  all  the  solid  matter,  and  add  the 
onions  to  the  liquid  fat.  Cover,  and  cook  slowly  for  one 
hour,  stirring  often.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the 
flour  and  the  lean  mutton,  cut  into  cubes.  Stir  over  a 
hot  part  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  becomes  slightly 
browned.  Now  add  the  salt,  pepper,  and  water.  Set 
the  stew  back  where  it  will  simmer  for  one  hour  and  a 
half;  then  add  the  potatoes  and  minced  parsley,  and 
simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  longer.  Taste,  to 
see  if  there  be  salt  and  pepper  enough. 

*  Brunswick  Stew. 

This  dish  is  a  good  medium  for  the  use  of  the  remains 
of  a  roast  of  mutton  ;  about  two  pounds  of  meat,  aside 
from  the  bones,  being  required.  The  other  articles 
needed  are  a  pint  of  Lima  beans,  —  or  any  kind  of 
shelled  beans  will  do;  one  quart  of  pared  and  sliced 
potatoes ;  half  a  pint  each  of  turnips  and  carrots,  cut  into 
dice ;  one  pint  of  tomatoes,  cut  fine ;  one  parsnip,  cut 
fine ;  two  quarts  of  fine-shred  cabbage,  two  quarts  of 
water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  of  butter,  two 
of  salt,  and  a  level  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  All  of  the 
vegetables  should  be  uncooked.  When  corn  is  in  season 
a  pint  and  a  half,  cut  from  the  cob,  may  be  used. 

Free  the  meat  from  bones  and  fat,  and  cut  it  into  dice. 
Put  the  bones  into  a  stew-pan  with  some  water,  and  cook 
gently  for  two  hours.  Mix  the  flour  with  half  a  cup- 
ful of  cold  water  taken  from  the  two  quarts,  and  stir  the 
mixture  into  the  water  in  the  saucepan.  Add  the  salt  and 
pepper,  and  cook  twenty  minutes  longer.  Meanwhile 
arrange  the  vegetables  and  meat  in  layers  in  a  large 


272          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

stew-pan,  and  strain  the  broth  over  them.  Put  the  butter 
on  the  top,  and  cover  the  stew-pan  closely.  Place  on  the 
fire,  and  cook  gently  for  two  hours.  Serve  very  hot. 

*Escaloped  Mutton* 

Free  a  quantity  of  cold  mutton  from  skin,  bone,  and 
fat,  and  chop  it  rather  coarse.  To  one  pint  of  the 
meat  add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  A  gravy  is  next  to  be  made 
by  this  rule :  Put  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot,  add  a  generous 
teaspoonful  of  flour ;  stir  until  the  mixture  has  become 
browned,  and  then  gradually  add  a  cupful  of  soup 
stock  or  cold  water ;  let  the  gravy  boil  three  minutes, 
and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  alternate 
layers  of  gravy  and  mutton  into  an  escalop  dish,  having 
three  of  gravy  and  two  of  meat.  Cover  lightly  with 
grated  bread  crumbs,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  twenty 
minutes. 

The  dish  may  be  prepared  the  day  before,  and  kept  in 
a  cold  place  until  morning.  Other  meats  than  mutton 
may  be  used. 

Deviled  Mutton. 

•From  the  rare  mutton  left  from  a  dinner,  cut  slices  an 
inch  thick,  and  score  them  very  lightly.  Mix  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  mustard,  two  of  olive-oil,  one  of  vinegar,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
cayenne,  and  spread  this  mixture  in  the  incisions  in  the 
mutton.  Broil  the  slices  for  five  minutes  over  a  very 
hot  fire.  Place  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  a  little  butter  over 
them,  and  serve  immediately. 

The  quantity  of  seasoning  given  above  is  enough  for 
two  large  slices.  If  a  strong  flavor  be  liked,  the  amount 
of  seasoning  should  be  doubled. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  273 


*  Fried  Bacon. 

Cut  the  bacon  as  thin  as  the  blade  of  a  knife,  or  have 
the  butcher  do  it  for  you.  Six  or  seven  slices  probably 
will  be  sufficient.  Keep  it  perfectly  cold  until  you  are 
ready  to  fry  it.  Heat  the  frying-pan  to  a  high  tempera- 
ture before  putting  the  bacon  into  it.  Cook  the  meat 
until  it  curls  a  little,  which  will  be  in  about  two  or  three 
minutes.  It  should  be  served  at  once. 

*  Fried  Bacon,  Southern  Fashion. 

Cut  the  bacon  in  slices  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Place  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  boiling  water  over  it. 
Let  it  stand  for  five  minutes  ;  then  spread  it  in  a  frying- 
pan,  and  sprinkle  Indian  meal  lightly  over  the  meat. 
Fry  over  a  rather  hot  fire  until  crisp  and  brown,  and  be 
particular  to  serve  on  a  warm  dish. 

*  Fried  Liver  and  Bacon. 

Simple  as  this  dish  is,  it  is  seldom  properly  cooked. 
The  bacon  should  be  kept  cold  until  it  is  to  be  cut.  For 
the  cutting,  an  exceedingly  keen  knife  is  required,  as 
the  slices  should  be  as  thin  as  shavings.  If  you  are  not 
to  fry  them  immediately,  put  them  in  a  cool  place. 
Have  the  liver  sent  from  the  market  in  one  piece,  and 
cut  it  yourself  into  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  If  it  be  calf  liver,  simply  wash  it  in  cold  water  ; 
but  if  it  be  beef  liver,  it  will  require  more  attention.  It 
must  in  that  case  be  allowed  to  stand  twenty  minutes  or 
more  in  cold  water ;  this  must  then  be  poured  off,  and 
the  liver  covered  with  boiling  water ;  five  minutes  later 
the  meat  must  be  drained  in  a  colander,  and  it  should 
then  be  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Put  the  slices  of  bacon  into  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  turn 
them  constantly  until  they  are  crisp ;  then  take  them  up, 
and  keep  hot.  Move  the  frying-pan  to  a  part  of  the 

V* 


274          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

stove  where  the  heat  will  not  be  so  great  as  during  the 
cooking  of  the  bacon,  and,  dropping  the  sliced  liver  into 
the  bacon  fat,  cook  eight  minutes,  turning  frequently. 
Arrange  the  liver  in  the  centre  of  a  platter,  and  garnish 
with  the  bacon. 

By  following  these  directions  you  will  have  the  bacon 
crisp  and  curled,  and  the  liver  tender.  Slow  cooking 
spoils  bacon,  and  rapid  cooking  hardens  and  ruins  liver. 

Blanquette  of  Calf's  Liver. 

After  washing  two  pounds  of  calf's  liver,  put  it  into 
a  stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer 
for  three  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  it  up  and 
cool  it ;  and  when  it  is  cold,  cut  it  into  little  cubes,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan  with  one  large  slice  of  onion, 
and  cook  slowly  for  three  minutes  ;  then  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth 
and  frothy,  but  not  until  it  gets  brown.  Draw  the  pan 
back,  and  gradually  add  a  scant  pint  of  white  stock ; 
then  remove  the  onion,  and,  drawing  the  pan  to  a  hot 
part  of  the  stove,  stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils.  Season 
to  your  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  liver  into 
the  pan,  and  after  cooking  for  eight  minutes,  add  half  a 
cupful  of  milk.  When  the  blanquette  boils  up,  remove 
it  from  the  fire;  and  after  adding  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  serve  without  delay. 

*  Calf's  Liver  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Use  for  six  persons  two  pounds  of  liver,  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  gills  of  milk,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  flour,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  slice  of  onion,  and  salt 
and  pepper  for  seasoning. 

Cut  the  liver  into  small,  thin  slices,  and  cover  it  with 
cold  water.  Let  it  stand  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  drain  it. 
Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  begins  to 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  275 

4 

bubble,  put  in  the  liver,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cook  rather  slowly  for  six  minutes,  and  brown  slightly 
on  both  sides.  Now  take  up  the  liver,  and  put  it  where 
it  will  keep  warm.  Put  the  onion  and  parsley  into  the 
butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  and  cook  for  one  minute ; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  liquid  begins  to 
froth.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  cold 
milk.  Cook  for  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  while ;  then 
put  in  the  liver,  and  cook  slowly  for  five  minutes  longer. 
This  dish  will  answer  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  tea. 

*  Liver  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Cut  a  pound  and  a  half  of  calf's  liver  into  pieces  about 
an  inch  square,  and  wash  and  cover  with  cold  water. 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  a  whole  clove,  and 
simmer  gently  for  an  hour ;  then  pour  off  the  water,  and 
add  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream.  Mix  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour  with  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  put 
into  the  stew-pan  as  soon  as  the  milk  begins  to  boil. 
Taste,  to  be  sure  that  the  dish  is  properly  seasoned. 
Boil  for  two  minutes  longer,  and  serve  on  crisp  toast. 

*  Liver  Hash. 

Cut  cold  braised  or  stewed  liver  into  pieces  about  the 
size  of  Lima  beans.  A  gravy  is  next  in  order.  For  a 
pint  of  meat  cook  together  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  flour  until  brown,  and  then  add  a  scant 
cupful  of  cold  water,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ; 
and  for  each  pint  of  meat  beyond  the  first,  increase  pro- 
portionally the  quantities  of  ingredients  for  the  gravy. 
As  soon  as  this  sauce  boils  up,  put  the  liver  into  it. 
Simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Serve  very  hot. 

*  Lamb's  Liver  Saute". 

Cut  the  liver  in  slices  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick. 
Let  it  stand  in  cold  water  for  ten  minutes ;  then  drain 


276          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

it,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  each  pound  of 
meat  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour 
into  a  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then 
put  in  the  liver,  and  cook  gently  for  six  minutes,  brown- 
ing on  both  sides.  Gradually  add  a  cupful  of  hot  water 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Stir  the  liquid  until 
it  boils  up;  then,  after  satisfying  yourself  that  it  is 
seasoned  to  your  taste,  let  it  simmer  for  two  minutes. 
Serve  very  hot. 

For  a  change,  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped  pickles  or 
capers  may  be  added.  This  addition  is  best,  however, 
when  the  dish  is  to  be  served  at  luncheon  or  supper, 
because  breakfast  dishes  should  be  simple. 

*  Broiled  Ham. 

Cut  slices  of  ham  very  thin.  Put  them  in  the  double- 
broiler,  and  cook  over  clear  coals  for  five  minutes.  The 
broiler  must  be  turned  constantly,  as  the  fat  dropping 
from  the  ham  blazes  up.  Serve  the  meat  very  hot. 

*  Crumbed  Kidneys. 

After  removing  the  skin  from  two  pairs  of  sheep  ?s 
kidneys,  cut  the  meat  into  round  slices  about  one-third 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  let  these  stand  for  half  an  hour 
in  a  bowl  of  cold  water ;  then  drain  them,  and  season 
well  with  salt  and  slightly  with  pepper.  Dip  the  slices 
into  melted  butter,  and  then  into  fine  bread  crumbs,  and, 
placing  them  in  an  oyster  broiler  or  any  common  broiler, 
cook  them  over  clear  coals  for  seven  minutes.  Place  the 
meat  on  slices  of  toast,  putting  a  bit  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  on  each  piece.  Serve  immediately. 

Make  the  maitre  d'hote!  butter  by  stirring  together 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  277 

Kidneys  a  la  Tartar. 

Wash  the  kidneys,  and  pull  off  the  thin  skin.  Cut 
each  kidney  almost  through  without  actually  dividing 
it.  Let  them  soak  in  salted  water  for  half  an  hour. 
Now  run  a  small  skewer  through  each  one,  to  keep  it 
open.  Wipe  dryj 
then  season  with 
salt  and  pepper. 
Now  dip  in  melted 
butter,  and  roll  in 

fine  bread  crumbs. 

-r, ,  .          . ,  Skewered  Kidneys. 

Place     in     the 

double-broiler,  and  cook  over  clear  coals  for  six  minutes. 
Place  them  on  a  warm  dish,  the  inside  up,  and  after 
drawing  out  the  skewers,  put  a  little  Tartar  sauce  in  the 
centre  of  each  kidney.  Garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley. 

*  Kidneys  Saute. 

For  six  sheep  or  lamb  kidneys,  use  three  table-spoon- 
fuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a 
cupful  of  mushrooms  cut  into  cubes,  and  half  a  cupful 
of  stock  or  water. 

Eemove  the  skin  from  the  kidneys.  Cut  them  in  thin 
round  slices,  and  let  them  soak  in  salted  water  for  half 
an  hour.  Now  drain  and  wipe  them.  Put  the  butter 
into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot  add  the 
kidneys  and  mushrooms.  Stir  for  one  minute,  and  then 
add  the  flour.  Stir  one  minute  longer;  then  add  the 
stock  or  water,  and  cook  slowly  for  three  minutes.  Add 
the  other  ingredients,  and  boil  up  once.  Serve  on  slices 
of  toast. 

*  Baked  Hash. 

Use  a  cupful  of  any  kind  of  cold  meat,  chopped  rather 
coarse,  a  cupful  of  cold  cooked  rice,  a  generous  cupful 


278          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  milk,  an  egg,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Put  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
has  become  hot,  add  all  the  other  ingredients  except  the 
egg.  Stir  for  one  minute;  then  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  egg,  well  beaten.  Turn  into  an  escalop  dish, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
in  the  same  dish. 

*  Baked  Hash. 

Chop  enough  of  the  well-done  parts  of  cold  roast  beef 
to  make  two  cupfuls.  Add  to  the  meat  a  cupful  of  cold 
mashed  potatoes,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a 
cupful  of  water,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread  crumbs, 
and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Bake  in  a  shallow 
dish  for  half  an  hour.  Any  kind  of  meat  may  be  used 
for  baked  hash.  It  should  be  chopped  rather  coarse. 


*  Corned  Beef  Hash. 

The  materials  required  are :  a  quart  of  the  trimmings 
of  a  piece  of  cold  corned  beef,  a  quart  of  cold  boiled 
potatoes,  a  large  table-spoonful  of  butter,  a  cupful  of 
stock,  or,  if  you  have  none,  half  a  cupful  of  hot  water ; 
salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Season  the  meat  and 
potatoes  while  you  are  chopping  them  rather  fine ;  then 
mix  them  together  rather  lightly,  and  add  the  stock. 
Put  half  the  butter  into  a  large  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
has  melted,  put  in  the  hash,  spreading  it  evenly,  and 
laying  the  remainder  of  the  butter  on  top  in  bits.  Cover 
the  pan  closely,  and  place  it  where  the  hash  will  cook 
slowly  for  half  an  hour.  There  should  be  a  thick,  brown 
crust  on  the  bottom.  Care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  burn- 
ing. Having  warmed  a  large  platter,  fold  the  hash,  and 
turn  it  out  upon  the  dish  as  you  would  an  omelet.  Gar- 
nish with  triangles  of  toasted  bread. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  279 

Other  meats  may  be  used  instead  of  corned  beef,  yet 
that  is  the  best.  The  slow  process  of  heating  the  hash 
gives  it  a  flavor  that  cannot  be  obtained  by  hurried  cook- 
ing. If  more  convenient,  the  hash  may  be  prepared  for 
the  frying-pan  a  day  in  advance  of  the  cooking. 

When  more  crust  is  desired,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter 
may  be  melted  in  a  second  frying-pan ;  and  after  the  hash 
has  been  browned,  turn  it  into  this  pan,  and  brown  it  on 
the  other  side. 

*  Tongue  Hash. 

Chop  rather  coarse  the  roots  and  trimmings  of  a  tongue, 
and  to  each  pint  of  the  chopped  meat  add  a  pint  of  cold 
potatoes,  chopped  fine.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  add  half  a  cupful  of  water.  Put  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter  into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  been  melted, 
turn  the  hash  into  the  pan,  spreading  it  evenly.  Cover, 
and  place  where  it  will  brown  for  half  an  hour  without 
jurning ;  then  turn  out  upon  a  hot  platter,  and  serve  at 
once.  It  should  have  a  rich  brown  crust. 


*  Turkey  Hash. 

Cut  a  quart  of  cold  turkey  into  dice,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into 
a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot,  but  not  brown, 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until  the  mixture  is 
smooth  and  frothy,  and  gradually  add  a  pint  of  cold 
milk ;  then  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  after  seasoning  with 
salt  and  pepper,  add  the  seasoned  turkey.  Cook  for 
eight  minutes.  Have  eight  slices  of  dry  toast  on  a 
platter,  and  after  spreading  the  hash  upon  them,  serve 
immediately. 

Any  kind  of  light  meat,  like  chicken,  game,  or  veal, 
may  be  prepared  and  served  in  the  same  way. 


280          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Vegetable  Hash. 

The  hashes  that  may  be  prepared  from  the  remains 
of  a  boiled  dinner  are  by  some  folk  thought  to  be  even 
more  palatable  than  the  dinner  itself.  Here  is  a  receipt 
for  a  hash  made  from  vegetables :  Chop  rather  coarse  the 
cabbage,  turnips,  parsnips,  and  about  half  of  a  small 
carrot.  Use  with  each  quart  of  the  mixed  vegetables 
one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter  or  beef  drippings. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  one-third  of  a  cup- 
ful of  water  or  milk.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  after  covering  it,  cook  it  slowly  for  half  an  hour, 
stirring  occasionally.  Serve  very  hot. 

This  is  a  good  dish  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  dinner,  or 
supper.  Potatoes  may  be  chopped  and  heated  with  the 
other  vegetables.  Use  the  cold  beets  left  from  a  boiled 
dinner,  either  as  a  pickle  or  in  a  salad. 

*  Meat-and-Potato  Hash. 

Take  enough  of  the  trimmings  of  cold  corned  beef  to 
make  three  cupfuls  when  chopped  rather  fine.  Use  also 
the  same  quantity  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  chopped  ratner 
coarse.  Sprinkle  both  ingredients  with  salt  and  pepper ; 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  will  be  enough,  and  the 
amount  of  salt  will  depend  upon  the  saltness  of  the  beef. 
Add  also  one  teaspoonful  of  grated  onion. 

After  mixing  the  materials  lightly  with  a  fork,  add 
one-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  milk.  Put  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become 
melted,  put  in  the  hash.  Spread  it  lightly  on  the  bottom 
of  the  pan,  and  after  covering  it  closely,  set  it  where  it 
will  heat  slowly  and  cook  for  half  an  hour  or  more. 
There  should  be  a  rich  brown  crust  on  the  bottom  of 
the  hash  when  done.  Slip  a  knife  under  it  to  ascertain 
this  fact.  At  serving-time  fold  the  hash  like  an  omelet, 
and  turn  out  on  a  warm  platter.  Garnish  with  triangu- 
lar pieces  of  dry  toast. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING   MEAT.          281 

Force-meat  Cakes. 

Any  kind  of  cold  meat  may  be  used.  Enough  to  make 
a  pint  should  be  chopped  fine.  In  addition  there  will  be 
required  half  a  pint  of  milk,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  an  egg,  a  pint  of  dried  bread  crumbs,  half  a  pint 
of  stale  bread,  free  of  crust,  and  some  fat  for  frying 
purposes. 

Put  the  milk  and  stale  bread  into  a  saucepan,  and  cook 
slowly  for  ten  minutes.  After  removing  the  mixture 
from  the  stove,  mash  it  very  fine  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon ;  then  add  the  butter,  meat,  and  seasoning.  Shape 
the  mixture  into  small,  flat  cakes ;  and  after  beating  the 
egg  on  a  plate,  dip  the  cakes  into  it  and  then  into  the 
dried  crumbs.  Put  a  kettle  of  fat  on  the  stove,  and  put 
the  cakes  into  a  wire  fry  ing-basket.  When  smoke  begins 
to  rise  from  the  centre  of  the  liquid,  lower  the  basket 
into  the  kettle.  The  cakes  will  cook  in  two  minutes. 
Drain  them  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  hot. 

*  Baked  Sausages. 

After  pricking  the  sausages,  put  them  into  a  basin  and 
cover  with  boiling  water.  Boil  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
remove  from  the  hot  water,  and  put  into  cold  water  for 
two  minutes.  Roll  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  fine,  dry 
bread  crumbs,  and,  laying  them  in  a  shallow  pan,  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  An  egg  and  a  pint 
of  crumbs  will  answer  for  a  pound  of  sausages.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  garnish  of  triangles  of  crisp  toast. 

Baked  sausages  are  more  delicate  than  fried  ones.  If 
the  meat  be  not  in  cases,  omit  the  boiling,  and  proceed 
with  the  breading  and  baking. 

*  Baked  Rice  and  Sausages. 

For  six  persons  use  a  small  teacupful  of  rice,  eight 
sausages,  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper,  if  you  choose. 


282          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  then  put  it  into  a 
large  stew-pan  with  the  boiling  water.  Boil,  with  the 
cover  off  the  pan,  for  twenty-five  minutes,  adding  the 
salt  at  the  end  of  the  first  fifteen.  When  the  rice  is 
cooked,  drain  it  in  a  colander.  Sprinkle  lightly  with 
pepper,  using  about  one-third  of  a  teaspoonf ul,  and  then 
spread  in  a  rather  shallow  dish.  Cut  the  sausages  in 
slices  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  on 
the  rice.  Bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve  at  once  in  the  dish  in  which  the  cooking  is 
done. 

If  the  sausage  meat  be  in  cakes  or  slices  it  may  be 
cut  in  small  pieces  and  used  the  same  as  if  it  were  in 
cases.  Cold  cooked  sausages  may  be  used. 

*  Turkish  Pilaf. 

For  this  dish  there  will  be  required  three  pints  of  any 
kind  of  cold  meat,  one  quart  of  stock  (which  can  be  made 
of  the  bones  and  bits  of  gristle  taken  from  the  cold  meat), 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  six  of  butter,  an  onion,  a 
cupful  of  strained  tomato,  a  cupful  of  rice,  and  salt  and 
pepper  for  seasoning. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  let  it  stand  in  cold 
water  for  an  hour.  Put  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  canned 
tomato  into  a  small  stew-pan  with  half  an  onion,  and 
cook  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  rub  through  a  strainer. 
There  should  be  a  generous  cupful  of  the  strained  tomato. 
Add  to  it  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  stock,  a  teaspoonf  ul  of 
salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  return  to  the  stew- 
pan  ;  and  when  it  boils  up,  add  the  rice,  strained  free  of 
water.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  double-b&iler,  and  cook 
for  an  hour;  then  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  longer. 

Meanwhile  cut  the  meat  into  small  slices,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter into  the  frying-pan;  and  when  it  is  melted,  put  in 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  283 

half  an  onion,  cut  into  thin  slices.  Cook  slowly  until 
the  onion  turns  a  light  brown ;  then  add  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  butter  and  flour  are  a 
dark  brown.  Add  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  stock,  and 
boil  gently  for  five  minutes.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  strain  upon  the  meat.  Cook  the  dish  for 
twelve  minutes;  then  pour  into  the  centre  of  a  warm 
platter,  and  heap  the  rice  around  it.  Serve  at  once. 

*  Mt.-Desert  Stew. 

Put  into  a  stew-pan  a  can  of  tomatoes,  a  table-spoonful 
of  cracker  crumbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  piece  of  onion  the  size  of 
a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes ; 
then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  three  or  four 
well-beaten  eggs.  Cook  a  minute  longer,  stirring  all  the 
while,  and  serve  immediately. 

This  is  a  nice  stew  to  serve  with  plain  boiled  macaroni, 
boiled  rice,  or  toast. 

*  Ham  Cakes. 

There  will  be  required  for  these  cakes  four  potatoes 
of  medium  size,  one  cupful  of  fine-chopped  ham  (the  dry 
bits  that  cling  to  the  bones  will  answer),  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper.  Peel  and  boil  the  potatoes ;  and  when  they  are 
cooked,  mash  them  until  fine  and  light.  Add  the  ham, 
pepper,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  the  butter.  Mix  well, 
and  shape  into  thin  cakes  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
diameter.  Put  *the  remaining  butter  on  the  stove  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  gets  hot,  put  the  cakes  into 
the  pan.  Brown  on  both  sides,  and  serve  on  a  warm 
dish. 

Deviled  Ham. 

Use  for  this  dish  half  a  pound  of  raw  ham,  cut  in  thin 
slices,  one  table-spoonful  of  dry  mustard,  one  of  vinegar, 


284         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

two  of  melted  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne, and  a  slight  dredging  of  flour. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  except  the  ham  and  flour,  and 
spread  the  mixture  on  both  sides  of  the  slices  of  meat 
(there  should  be  two  thin  slices).  Sprinkle  the  ham 
with  flour,  and  broil  it  over  clear  coals  for  seven  or  eight 
minutes.  Serve  immediately  on  a  warm  dish. 


Here  is  another  receipt:  The  materials  used  are  a 
pound  of  cold  boiled  ham,  cut  in  thin  slices,  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  dry  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter 
and  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  and  sifted  bread  crumbs. 

Mix  the  mustard,  cayenne,  salt,  and  milk,  and  spread 
a  thin  layer  of  this  paste  over  one  side  of  each  slice  of 
ham.  Roll  up  the  slices  in  a  rather  loose  manner,  and 
fasten  them  with  small  skewers ;  or,  if  you  have  no 
skewers,  use  wooden  toothpicks.  When  all  the  slices 
have  been  rolled  up  and  fastened,  roll  them  in  melted 
butter  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Put  into  a  baking-pan, 
and  cook  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  eight  minutes.  Remove 
the  skewers,  and  serve  the  meat  on  thin  strips  of  toast. 

Deviled  ham  prepared  by  either  of  these  rules  is  very 
nice  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  tea.  Following  the  sec- 
ond mode  gives  the  more  delicate  dish,  but  gentlemen 
are  fond  of  ham  cooked  by  the  first  receipt. 

Deviled  Boiled  Ham. 

This  is  a  savory  dish  for  luncheon  or  tea.  Cut  two 
slices  of  cold  boiled  ham  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  sprinkle  very  lightly  with  cayenne.  Mix  a  table- 
spoonful  of  dry  mustard,  one  of  water,  and  one  of  lemon 
juice.  Broil  the  ham  over  a  hot  fire  for  six  minutes; 
then  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  spread  the  mustard  over 
it.  Serve  hot. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  285 


*Pork  Chops. 

Have  the  chops  cut  thin.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
cover  with  boiling  water.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour; 
then  remove  from  the  water,  and  dredge  lightly  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  ten 
minutes.  Prepared  in  this  way,  the  pork  will  be  well 
cooked  and  tender. 

*  Broiled  Pigs'  Feet. 

When  pigs'  feet  are  wanted  for  a  breakfast  dish  they 
must  be  boiled  the  previous  day.  One  foot  is  enough 
for  each  person. 

Scrape  the  feet,  and  wash  them  thoroughly ;  then  tie 
up  each  one  in  a  separate  piece  of  cheese  cloth,  and  put 
all  into  a  stew-pan,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt  to 
eight  feet,  and  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them.  Let 
the  water  boil  up  once ;  then  set  the  pan  back  where  the 
feet  will  simmer  for  six  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  set  it  where  its  contents 
will  become  cool.  When  cold,  remove  the  feet  to  a 
platter  and  drain  them,  but  do  not  take  off  the  cloth. 
In  the  morning  remove  the  cloth  and  split  the  feet. 
Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  broil  over  clear 
coals  for  ten  minutes.  Place  on  a  warm  platter,  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 

*  Fried  Pigs'  Feet. 

Cook  and  cool  the  feet,  as  for  broiling.  Split  them, 
and  season  well  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice.  Dip 
in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boil- 
ing fat  for  five  minutes.  Take  up  and  drain,  and  serve 
at  once  on  a  hot  dish. 

If  eight  feet  be  used,  the  ingredients  needed  with 
them  will  be  two  eggs,  one  pint  of  crumbs,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 


286          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Broiled  Tripe. 

Use  the  thick  part  of  the  tripe.  If  it  has  been  in 
pickle,  wash  it  in  cold  water  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan 
with  enough  milk  and  water  —  in  equal  parts  — to  cover 
it.  Simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour;  then  drain  the 
tripe,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  each  pound 
melt  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  on  a  plate ;  and  after 
dipping  the  tripe  in  the  butter  and  dredging  it  thickly 
with  flour,  broil  it  over  a  hot  fire  for  six  minutes.  Serve 
very  hot. 

If  the  tripe  has  not  been  in  pickle,  cover  it  with  hot 
water,  and  simmer  it  for  only  ten  minutes  before  season- 
ing it  and  dipping  it  in  butter. 

Roast  Ham,  Stuffed. 

Wash  a  large  ham,  and  soak  it  for  forty-eight  hours  in 
water  enough  to  cover  it.  In  the  morning  place  it  on  a 
tin  sheet  in  a  large  dripping-pan.  Cover  the  entire  ham 
with  a  dough  made  of  two  quarts  of  flour  and  a  generous 
pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and  bake  slowly  for  five  hours. 
Make  a  dressing  by  soaking  a  quart  of  pieces  of  stale 
bread  in  a  generous  pint  of  milk,  seasoning  it  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  mixing  it  thoroughly  with  two  eggs. 
Take  the  ham  from  the  oven,  and  remove  the  paste  and 
skin ;  then  score  the  top  deeply,  and  fill  the  slits  with 
dressing.  Spread  over  the  ham  such  part  of  the  dressing 
as  remains.  Keturn  the  meat  to  the  oven,  and  bake  it 
slowly  for  another  hour.  It  will  be  delicious,  hot  or 
cold,  and  especially  nice,  when  hot,  if  served  with  cham- 
pagne sauce  or  currant  jelly  sauce. 

Roast  Ham. 

Wash  a  ham  very  carefully,  and  soak  it  for  twenty-four 
hours  in  two  gallons  of  water  and  one  pint  of  vinegar. 
If  it  be  put  in  soak  in  the  morning,  it  will  be  ready  for 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  287 

baking  the  next  morning.  When  sufficiently  soaked, 
wipe  it  carefully.  Now  make  a  dough  with  two  quarts 
of  flour  and  a  generous  pint  of  water.  Roll  this  into  a 
sheet  large  enough  to  cover  the  ham ;  fold  the  ham  in 
this,  and  place  it  on  a  meat-rack  in  the  dripping-pan. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  six  hours. 

On  taking  from  the  oven,  remove  the  paste  and  skin 
the  ham.  Sprinkle  the  top  of  the  ham  with  fine  crumbs, 
and  return  to  the  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

TD 

Roast  Pig. 

The  pig  should  be  about  three  weeks  old.  The  butcher 
draws  and  scrapes  it.  The  cook  must  clean  it  in  the 
following  manner :  Cover  the  point  of  a  wooden  skewer 
with  a  piece  of  soft  cloth,  and  work  the  skewer  into  the 
ears  to  clean  out  all  the  wax.  Clean  the  dirt  from  the 
nostrils  in  the  same  manner.  Clean  the  lips,  gums,  and 
tongue  by  scraping  with  a  sharp  knife  and  then  wiping 
with  a  soft  cloth.  Take  out  the  eyes.  Now  clean  the 
vent  near  the  tail  by  pushing  a  skewer,  wound  with  cloth, 
through  the  vent  from  the  inside.  Wash  the  pig  in  cold 
water,  being  careful  to  get  the  throat  free  of  blood. 
Wipe  dry,  and  rub  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  on  the  inside 
of  the  pig. 

Mix  together  three  pints  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one 
table-spoonful  of  powdered  sage,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  one  of  minced  onion.  Fill  the  body  of  the  pig 
with  this,  and  sew  up.  Press  the  fore  feet  forward  and 
the  hind  feet  backward,  and  skewer  them  into  position. 
Butter  two  sheets  of  paper,  and  pin  them  over  the  ears. 
Dredge  the  pig  with  salt,  rub  it  over  with  soft  butter, 
and  dredge  with  flour.  Place  in  a  dripping-pan  and  on 
a  rack,  and  cook  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  three 
hours  and  a  half,  basting  every  fifteen  minutes  with 
butter  or  salad  oil  and  a  light  sprinkling  of  salt  and 


288          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

flour.  Water  must  never  be  used,  as  it  is  important  that 
the  surface  of  the  meat  should  be  crisp.  Remove  the 
paper  from  the  ears  the  last  half-hour. 

The  pig  may  be  served  whole,  or  in  four  pieces.  If 
whole,  force  the  mouth  open  and  put  a  small  block  of 
wood  between  the  teeth  before  the  pig  is  placed  in  the 
oven.  At  serving-time  remove  the  block,  and  insert  in 
its  place  a  small  ear  of  corn  or  a  small  lemon.  Serve 
plenty  of  apple  sauce  with  this  dish. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  POULTRY  AND 
GAME. 

To  draw  poultry  or  birds,  first  cut  the  skin  on  the 
back  of  the  neck.  Now  turn  the  skin  over  on  the  breast, 
and  cut  off  the  neck  close  to  the  body.  Take  out  the 
crop,  being  careful  not  to  leave  any  of  the  lining,  which 
is  often  a  thin  membrane  that  is  hardly  perceptible,  es- 
pecially when  the  bird  has  an  empty  crop.  Most  of  the 
undrawn  poultry  is  kept  without  food  for  twelve  or  more 
hours  before  killing.  When  this  is  the  case  the  lining 
of  the  sack,  which  is  called  the  craw  or  crop,  becomes 
thin  and  soft.  Special  care  is  required  to  find  and 
remove  it. 

When  the  lining  of  the  crop  has  been  removed,  put 
the  forefinger  into  the  throat,  and  break  the  ligaments 
that  hold  the  internal  organs  to  the  breastbone.  Now 
cut  the  bird  open  at  the  vent,  beginning  under  one  of 
the  legs,  and  cutting  in  a  slanting  direction  toward  the 
vent;  stop  there.  Work  the  hand  slowly  around,  not 
through,  the  organs  until  the  top  of  the  breastbone  is 
reached.  Now  gently  draw  all  the  organs  out  at  once. 
It  may  be  that  the  lights  and  a  piece  of  the  windpipe 
will  be  left  in.  The  lights  will  be  found  imbedded  in 
the  ribs  ;  they  are  a  soft,  spongy  pink  substance.  Look 
into  the  throat  for  the  windpipe.  In  the  tail  there  will 
be  found  a  hard  yellow  substance,  named  the  oil  bag ; 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  289 

cut  it  out.  Cut  off  the  legs,  being  sure  to  cut  in  the 
joints. 

Now  singe  the  bird  by  holding  it  over  a  blazing  news- 
paper. The  paper  should  be  held  over  the  open  fire  or 
over  a  coal-hod.  Wash  the  bird  quickly  in  cold  water. 
If  it  is  to  be  stuffed,  fill  the  crop  first,  and  put  the  re- 
mainder of  the  stuffing  into  the  body.  Draw  the  skin  at 
the  neck  onto  the  back,  and  fasten  it  to  the  backbone  with 
a  skewer.  Turn  the  tips  of  the  wings  under  the  back, 
and  fasten  them  in  that  position  with  a  long  skewer. 
Xow  pass  a  small  skewer  through  the  lower  part  of  the 
legs,  and  then  through  the  tail.  Tie  firmly  with  a  long 
piece  of  twine.  Turn  the  bird  on  its  breast,  and  then 
bring  the  twine  up  round  the  skewers  that  hold  the 
wings  and  the  neck.  Twist  round  two  or  three  times, 
and  tie. 

Now  season  the  bird  with  salt  and  pepper.  If  it  is  to 
be  roasted,  rub  the  breast  and  legs  thickly  with  soft 
butter,  and  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Follow  the  gen- 
eral directions  for  boiling  or  roasting. 

*  Boiled  Turkey. 

Singe,  draw,  and  wash  a  turkey  weighing  about  nine 
or  ten  pounds,  and  stuff  with  a  dressing  made  by  chop- 
ping a  quart  of  small  oysters,  rather  coarse,  and  adding 
to  them  a  quart  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  grain 
of  cayenne,  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  and  two  eggs, 
beaten  slightly.  Fill  the  breast  of  the  bird  with  some 
of  this  dressing,  and  put  the  remainder  into  the  body. 
Sew  up,  and  truss. 

Dip  a  large  piece  of  cotton  cloth  into  cold  water,  and 
after  wringing  it  well,  dredge  it  thickly  with  flour.  Pin 
the  turkey  in  this  cloth,  and  plunge  it  into  boiling 
water.  Boil  rapidly  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  set 
back  where  it  will  just  simmer  for  three  hours.  Serve 
with  oyster  sauce. 

19 


290          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Roast  Turkey. 

Have  a  turkey  weighing  ten  or  twelve  pounds.  Singe, 
draw,  and  wash  it.  Separate  the  skin  from  the  flesh,  as 
directed  for  truffled  turkey.  Put  between  the  skin  and 
flesh  a  thin  layer  of  dressing  described  below,  and  put 
the  remainder  into  the  crop  and  body.  Truss  the  tur- 
key, and  proceed  as  for  turkey  stuffed  with  chestnuts. 
Serve  with  giblet  sauce. 

Dressing.  —  Put  into  a  bowl  one  quart  of  grated  stale 
bread  and  one  cupful  of  milk  or  water.  Cover  the  mix- 
ture, and  let  it  stand  one  hour ;  then  add  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  teaspoon ful  of  powdered 
thyme,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  summer  savory,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  onion,  chopped  fine,  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Mix  all  well,  and 
then  proceed  to  stuff  the  turkey.  If  the  onion  be  ob- 
jectionable, omit  it.  . 

Truffled  Turkey. 

For  a  turkey  weighing  ten  pounds,  use  one  can  of 
truffles,  next  to  the  smallest  size,  one  can  of  mushrooms, 
one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  thyme,  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion, 
a  generous  half -cupful  of  butter,  and  some  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour. 

Singe,  draw,  wash,  and  wipe  the  turkey. 

Chop  the  truffles  and  mushrooms  very  fine,  and  add 
the  herbs  to  them.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  in 
the  frying-pan,  with  the  chopped  onion.  Stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  onion  turns  a  pale  straw-color.  Now  add  the 
mushrooms  and  truffles ;  also  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  for 
five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Take  from  the  fire, 
and  cool. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  291 

Now  lift  the  skin  from  the  flesh  on  the  breast  of  the 
turkey  by  gently  working  the  hand  under  the  skin,  being 
careful  not  to  break  it.  Begin  the  work  at  the  neck. 
Spread  a  thin  layer  of  the  mushroom  and  truffle  mixture 
over  the  flesh,  and  then  draw  the  skin  back  smooth.  Put 
the  remainder  of  the  mixture  into  the  crop  and  body  of 
the  bird.  Now  truss,  and  then  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Coat  the  back  lightly  and  the  breast  thickly 
with  soft  butter,  and  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Roast 
the  same  as  directed  for  turkey  stuffed  with  chestnuts. 
It  will  take  about  two  hours  and  a  half.  Serve  hot  with 
financiere  sauce. 

This  is  an  expensive  dish,  owing  to  the  high  price  of 
truffles. 

Roast  Turkey  with  Chestnut  Stuffing. 

Singe,  draw,  and  wash  a  turkey  weighing  eight  or  ten 
pounds.  Rub  it,  both  inside  and  out,  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Stuff  it  with  one  of  the  three  chestnut 
stuffings.  Now  truss  it.  Kub  the  back  lightly  and  the 
breast  and  legs  thickly  with  soft  butter,  and  dredge 
thickly  with  flour.  Place  the  turkey  on  its  back  on  the 
rack  in  the  dripping-pan.  Pour  one  cupful  of  boiling 
water  into  the  pan,  and  then  place  the  turkey  in  a  hot 
oven.  Watch,  to  see  that  the  turkey  does  not  get 
scorched;  and  turn  the  pan,  that  the  turkey  may  get 
brown  on  all  sides.  When  it  has  been  in  the  oven 
twenty-five  minutes,  begin  to  baste  with  the  water  in 
the  pan  and  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Baste  every 
fifteen  minutes  until  it  is  done.  Be  careful  that  the 
water  in  the  pan  does  not  boil  dry.  In  the  last  fifteen 
minutes  baste  the  breast  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  a  light  dredging  of  flour.  Serve  with 
chestnut  sauce. 

Chestnut  Stuffing.  —  Shell  and  blanch  fifty  chestnuts, 
and  boil  for  half  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  coyer  them. 


292          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Drain  off  the  water,  and  add  to  the  nuts  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  a  teaspooriful  of  pepper.  Mix  all  these  ingredients, 
and  stuff  the  turkey  with  them.  The  chestnuts  will 
be  whole,  dry,  sweet,  and  tender  when  cooked  in  this 
manner. 

Here  is  another  rule :  Follow  the  foregoing  receipt, 
only  pulverize  the  chestnuts,  and  then  add  the  sea- 
soning. 

Still  another  rule,  for  a  richer  stuffing  than  those 
already  described,  may  be  given.  Shell  and  blanch  fifty 
chestnuts,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  They  may  be  used 
whole  or  pulverized.  In  either  case  add  to  them  one  pint 
of  cooked  meat  —  veal,  mutton,  or  poultry  —  chopped 
fine,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter.  Mix  all  these  ingredients,  and  stuff  the  turkey. 

Braised  Turkey. 

Make  a  stuffing  as  for  truffled  turkey.  With  this, 
stuff  the  crop  and  body  of  a  plump  young  turkey  weigh- 
ing about  eight  pounds.  Truss  it.  Now  cut  truffles 
into  small  squares,  and  trim  one  end  of  them  to  a  point. 
Put  the  pointed  end  into  a  larding-needle,  and  draw  them 
in  this  way  into  the  breast  of  the  turkey.  Put  two  rows 
on  each  side  of  the  breast  and  one  row  in  each  leg. 

Spread  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  over  the  breast  and  legs. 
Cover  the  turkey  with  a  strong  sheet  of  buttered  paper. 
Fasten  on  the  paper  by  passing  a  string  around  the 
bird. 

Spread  in  a  braising-pan,  large  enough  to  hold  the 
turkey,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  sliced  salt  pork,  one 
gill  each  of  chopped  celery,  turnip,  carrot,  and  onion; 
Lay  the  turkey  on  this  pork,  breast  up.  Cover  the  pan, 


I 

I 

VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  293 

and  place  in  a  moderate  oven.  At  the  end  of  half  an 
hour  add  one  quart  of  hot  chicken  stock.  Baste  the 
turkey  with  this  stock  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  season 
well  at  the  same  time  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  in 
all  for  three  hours.  The  last  half-hour  remove  the  cover 
of  the  braising-pan ;  also  the  paper  and  pork  from  the 
breast  of  the  turkey.  Let  the  meat  brown  slightly. 

When  the  turkey  is  done,  lift  it  from  the  braising-pan, 
untruss  it,  and  put  it  on  a  large  platter.  Fasten  paper 
ornaments  on  the  ends  of  the  "  drumsticks."  Into  these 


Braised  Turkey. 

stick  two  small  skewers,  on  which  to  fasten  two  button 
mushrooms.  Garnish  the  dish  with  groups  of  chicken 
quenelles,  cocks'-combs,  and  truffles,  directions  for  the 
use  of  which  are  given  in  the  chapter  on  "Garnishes.'' 
Serve  mushroom  brown  sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

The  stock  in  which  the  turkey  was  cooked  will  answer 
for  sauces. 

Boiled  Capon. 

The  capon  should  be  cleaned  and  trussed  as  directed 
for  poultry  and  game.  Stuff  the  crop  and  body  with 
three  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice,  which  has  been  mixed  with 
a  table-spoonful  each  of  salt  and  butter,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Truss  the 
capon,  and  put  it  in  as  small  a  stew-pan  as  will  hold  it. 


294          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cover  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  two  hours  and  a 
half.  Garnish  with  rice  balls,  and  serve  w,ith  Bechamel 
thick  yellow  sauce,  or  mushroom  white  sauce. 

Capon  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Omit  the  rice,  and  cook  the  capon  as  already  directed. 
When  it  is  dished,  surround  it  with  a  jardiniere  garnish. 
Pour  a  gill  of  poulette  sauce  over  the  capon,  and  send  a 
boat  of  the  sauce  to  the  table. 

Roast  Capon. 

Clean  the  capon,  and  fill  the  body  and  crop  with 
stuffing  made  as  follows :  Mix  lightly  together  three 
cupf uls  of  grated  stale  bread,  —  baker's  is  best,  —  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  broken  into  bits,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  one 
teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  and  half  a  cupful  of  mush- 
rooms, chopped  fine. 

Truss  the  capon.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
rub  the  breast  and  legs  thickly  with  butter,  the  rest  of 
the  bird  lightly.  Dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Koast  a 
bird  weighing  seven  or  eight  pounds  two  hours  and  a 
quarter.  Follow  the  directions  given  for  roasting  turkey 
with  chestnut  stuffing. 

A  capon  may  be  prepared  by  any  of  the  rules  given 
for  turkey. 

Roast  Chickens. 

Make  a  stuffing  the  same  as  for  capon.  The  chopped 
mushrooms  may  be  omitted.  Prepare  and  roast  the 
chickens  the  same  as  the  capon,  allowing  an  hour  and  a 
half  for  a  pair  of  chickens  each  weighing  between  four 
and  five  pounds. 

GAME. 

At  some  seasons  most  kinds  of  game  are  as  cheap  as 
beef  and  mutton;  and  as  game  is  healthful  and  easily 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF   COOKING  MEAT.  295 

digested,  the  housekeeper  should  supply  her  table  with  it 
frequently.  Some  people  have  nonsensical  ideas  in  regard 
to  game ;  having  eaten  it  when  it  has  become  "  high," 
and  has  not  been  washed  before  cooking,  and  when  it 
has  been  heated  only  slightly,  they  imagine  that  there 
is  no  other  right  way  of  serving  it ;  and  so  they  either 
do  without  it  at  all,  or  eat  it  without  an  appetite,  and 
solely  because  they  think  it  is  fashionable  to  have  a 
taste  for  such  food. 

Now  game,  like  all  other  meat,  should  be  kept  long 
enough  to  get  properly  ripened,  and  no  longer.  In  cool 
weather  venison  may  be  hung  for  three  weeks  in  a  cold, 
dry  place.  Birds  rarely  should  be  hung  longer  than  one 
week.  When  to  be  hung  many  days,  they  should  be 
drawn,  but  not  plucked.  Pieces  of  charcoal  placed  in 
the  bodies  will  tend  to  preserve  them. 

After  it  has  been  hung,  venison  is  "improved"  — that 
is,  seasoned  —  by  keeping  it  for  several  days  in  a  mari- 
nade, which  not  only  gives  it  a  spicy  flavor,  but  makes 
it  tender.  As  a  substitute  for  washing  birds,  where  there 
is  objection  to  washing,  draw  and  wipe  them  carefully. 
Venison  should  only  be  wiped. 

In  cooking  game  use  common  sense,  and  do  as  you  are 
accustomed  to  do  with  beef  and  mutton.  There  can  be 
no  doubt  that  these  meats  have  a  better  flavor  and  are 
more  digestible  when  rare  than  when  well  done,  but 
there  are  hosts  of  people  who  cannot  eat  any  kind  of 
meat  when  rare,  and  must  have  their  game  well  done, 
if  they  have  it  at  all.  They  cannot  derive  the  same 
pleasure  as  those  who  cook  it  in  the  most  approved  way, 
yet  it  may  be  better  to  have  game  well  cooked  than  to 
go  entirely  without  it. 

Simplicity  is  perfection  in  the  art  of  all  cooking,  and 
especially  in  cooking  game,  to  which  nothing  should  be 
added,  either  in  the  preparation  or  serving,  that  will  dis- 
guise in  the  least  the  natural  flavor  of  the  meat. 

No  one  who  can  command  a  bright,  hot  fire,  and  be 


296          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

assured  that  the  company  will  be  in  their  places  at  the 
appointed  hour,  need  fear  to  undertake  the  cooking  of  a 
game  dinner.  A  few  things  are  always  to  be  borne  in 
mind,  —  namely,  to  serve  it  hot ;  to  have  the  sauces  so 
carefully  chosen  and  made  that  the  distinctive  flavors  of 
the  game  shall  be  brought  out,  and  not  impaired  in  the 
slightest  degree;  and  to  have  the  accompanying  vege- 
tables appropriate,  delicate,  and  few. 

Nearly  all  small  birds  are  served  with  their  heads  on. 
There  is  a  difference  in  taste  among  epicures  as  to  the 
drawing  of  birds.  Many  folk  do  not  enjoy  them  if 
drawn,  whereas  others  cannot  eat  them  if  undrawn.  It 
seems  as  if  in  time  the  custom  of  eating  entrails  —  a 
relic  of  barbarism  —  and  serving  the  birds  without  first 
removing  their  heads  would  become  obsolete. 

Game,  on  account  of  their  almost  constant  activity,  are 
not  usually  so  fat  as  domestic  animals  and  fowls ;  there- 
fore more  care  must  be  taken  to  protect  the  fat  and 
juices,  and  venison,  quail,  grouse,  and  partridges  are 
nearly  always  enriched  by  larding  or  by  placing  slices  of 
fat  pork  or  bacon  over  them.  The  fat  and  juices  of  a 
joint  of  venison  are  also  sometimes  kept  in  by  a  thick 
layer  of  flour  paste.  Ducks  are  so  rich  as  to  require  no 
sauce,  though  orange  and  olive  sauces  often  are  served 
with  them. 

Kabbits,  squirrels,  grouse,  and  venison  are  among  the 
commonest  and  cheapest  kinds  of  game ;  and  as  there  is 
but  little  waste  in  cooking  them,  they  will  average  as 
low  in  cost  as  mutton  and  beef.  Ducks  always  are  expen- 
sive, whatever  the  price,  because  there  is  but  little  avail- 
able meat.  When  it  comes  to  choice  ducks,  only  the 
rich  can  afford  to  buy  them. 

Roast  Leg  of  Venison. 

Use  a  leg  of  venison  weighing  about  ten  pounds,  half 
a  cupful  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  larding  pork,  some 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  297 

salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  half  a  pint  of  port  or  claret, 
if  liked. 

Wipe  the  meat  carefully,  and  then  draw  off  the  dry 
skin.  Lard  the  lean  side  of  the  leg.  Have  the  butter 
soft,  and  rub  half  of  it  over  the  meat ;  then  dredge  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  being  generous  with  the  flour. 
Lay  the  meat  on  the  rack  in  the  dripping-pan,  and  sprinkle 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  flour.  Place  in  a  very  hot 
oven,  and  watch  carefully  until  the  flour  in  the  pan 
browns.  This  will  be  in  about  five  minutes.  Now  add 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan, 
and  close  the  oven  door.  In  fifteen  minutes  begin  to 
baste  the  venison  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Do  this  every  fifteen  minutes 
until  the  meat  is  cooked  enough. 

The  water  in  the  pan  must  be  renewed  often.  The 
last  basting  should,  be  with  soft  butter  and  flour.  If  the 
meat  be  wished  very  rare,  an  hour  and  a  quarter's  cook- 
ing will  suffice,  but  for  most  tastes  an  hour  and  a  half 
will  be  none  too  much.  Serve  very  hot  with  currant 
jelly  sauce  or  a  gravy  made  from  the  drippings  in  the 
pan.  Many  people  baste  the  venison  with  port  or  claret 
instead  of  the  gravy  in  the  pan. 

The  oven  must  be  very  hot  the  first  half-hour,  and 
after  that  the  heat  must  be  reduced  a  little. 

If  the  leg  of  venison  is  to  be  roasted  before  the  fire, 
treat  it  in  the  same  manner,  except  that  it  will  require 
twenty  minutes  longer  to  cook. 

Saddle  of  Venison,  Larded  and  Roasted. 

Cut  the  flanks  from  a  saddle  of  venison,  and  wipe  the 
meat  with  a  damp  towel,  being  careful  to  remove  all  the 
hairs.  Lard  it.  Dredge  generously  with  salt  and  lightly 
with  pepper;  also  rub  soft  butter  over  the  top  of  the 
saddle,  and  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Roast  and  serve 
the  same  as  a  leg.  A.  thick  saddle  weighing  eight  pounds 


298          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Larded  Saddle  of  Venison. 

| 

will  require  an  hour  and  a  quarter's  cooking,  if  it  be 
wished  very  rare ;  cooking  for  an  hour  and  a  half  will 
leave  it  moderately  rare. 

*  Venison  Steaks. 

Have  the  steaks  cut  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick. 
Season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  them  in  melted 
butter  and  in  flour.  Broil  over  a  bright,  hot  fire  for  six 
minutes,  turning  constantly.  Serve  immediately  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  spread  over  them.  If  for  luncheon 
or  dinner,  provide  thin  fried  potatoes  or  potato  balls 
and  cauliflower  or  French  peas  as  accompaniments. 

Here  is  another  mode  of  cooking  venison  steaks  :  Have 
them  cut  half  an  inch  thick.  Season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  for  two  small  slices  of  steak  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  stock,  one  of  currant  jelly, 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  slight  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper  into  a  chafing-dish.  Light  the  lamp, 
and  as  soon  as  the  mixture  begins  to  boil,  put  in  the 
steaks.  Cook  for  six  minutes,  turning  frequently.  This 
cooking  is,  of  course,  to  be  done  at  the  table. 


Slices  of  cold  venison  are  nice  if  warmed  in  a  chafing- 
dish  and  served  with  the  gravy  or  sauce  left  from  a  pre- 
vious meal.  Cold  roast  venison  may  be  warmed  and 
served  with  a  brown  sauce  or  curry  sauce,  or  as  hash  on 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  299 

toast.  Still  another  way  of  serving  is  to  cut  it  into 
thick  slices,  make  incisions  in  these  slices  and  fill  them 
with  a  thin  coating  of  mixed  mustard  and  olive  oil,  dip 
the  slices  into  melted  butter  and  dredge  lightly  with 
flour,  broil  for  five  minutes  over  a  hot  fire,  and  serve 
with  butter  on  a  hot  dish. 

Venison  Steak  Cooked  in  the  Chafing-dish. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  appetizing  modes  of  preparing 
venison.  Being  cooked  on  the  table,  it  is  transferred 
without  loss  of  heat  or  flavor  to  the  plate  of  the  guest 
from  the  dish  in  wljich  it  was  cooked.  Slices  of  rare 
venison,  cut  from  a  cold  roast,  are  particularly  nice 
cooked  in  this  manner. 

Use  a  pound  and  a  half  of  venison,  cut  in  small  slices 
not  thicker  than  half  an  inch.  Put  in  the  chafing-dish 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  of  lemon  juice,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly.  Now  light  the 
lamp,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  is  hot ;  then  add  the 
slices  of  venison,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  If  rare 
roast  venison  be  used,  four  minutes  will  be  enough  time 
to  cook  it.  Sometimes  three  table-spoonfuls  of  port  or 
claret  are  added  to  the  meat  during  the  last  two  minutes 
of  cooking. 

*  Hashed  Venison. 

Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  coarse-chopped  venison.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion.  Cook  the  onion  until 
it  becomes  brown;  then  add  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  frothy. 
Draw  the  pan  back  to  a  cooler  part  of  the  range,  and 
gradually  add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  stock.  Season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper ;  and  after  straining,  turn  it  into 


300          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  pan  containing  the  chopped  venison.  Cook  slowly 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot  on  slices  of  buttered 
toast. 

Ragout  of  Venison. 

Use  three  pounds  of  cold  roast  venison,  one  quart  of 
water,  one  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  two  whole 
cloves,  one  clove  of  garlic,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  a  slight  grating 
of  nutmeg,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour, 
one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms,  and  eight 
rounds  of  bread  fried  in  clarified  butter. 

Free  the  venison  of  skin,  fat,  and  bone ;  then  cut  it 
into  cubes  about  an  inch  square.  £fet  the  meat  in  a  cool 
place.  Put  the  bones  and  gristle  into  a  stew-pan,  with 
the  water,  spice,  herbs,  and  garlic.  Place  on  the  fire, 
and  boil  until  there  is  but  one  pint  of  the  liquid  left. 
Strain  and  cool  this. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it 
turns  dark  brown.  Gradually  add  the  strained  stock  to 
this  mixture.  Boil  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  the  veni- 
son, salt,  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  add  the  mushrooms  and  lemon  juice, 
and  cook  six  minutes  longer. 

Arrange  the  meat  in  a  pyramid  on  a  warm  dish,  and 
garnish  the  base  with  the  fried  bread.  Serve  very  hot. 

Venison  Cutlets. 

Cut  the  cutlets  from  either  the  ribs  or  a  loin  of  veni- 
son, having  them  about  an  inch  thick.  Wipe  carefully, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Now  dip  them  in  melted 
butter,  and  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Broil  over  a  clear 
fire  for  ten  minutes,  turning  constantly.  Arrange  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 
Serve  currant  jelly  with  them  ;  or  currant  jelly  sauce  or 
port  sauce  may  be  poured  around  them. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  301 

Fillets  of  Venison. 

Have  two  pounds  of  venison  steak  cut  into  strips 
about  four  inches  long,  three  wide,  and  half  an  inch 
thick.  Put  them  in  a  bowl  for  twelve  hours  with  one 
gill  of  vinegar,  half  a  gill  of  olive  oil,  one  table-spoonful 
each  of  chopped  onion  and  carrot,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  bay  leaves, 
and  a  sprig  of  parsley.  Stir  the  mixture  several  times, 
that  all  parts  of  the  venison  may  be  well  seasoned  with 
the  marinade. 

When  ready  to  cook  the  fillets,  free  them  of  the  mar- 
inade, and  dredge  lightly  with  flour.  Set  them  in  a  cool 
place  for  ten  minutes,  while  making  the  sauce.  Next 
put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  stew-pan  and  on 
the  fire.  When  it  becomes  hot,  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  flour  gets  browned.  Gradually 
add  a  cupful  of  stock.  Boil  for  one  minute ;  then  add 
the  marinade  in  which  the  fillets  were  soaked.  Now 
add  one- tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  —  as  well  as 
you  can  measure  it  — .  and  some  more  salt,  if  necessary. 
Set  back,  and  simmer  while  the  fillets  are  being  broiled. 

Put  the  fillets  in  a  double-broiler,  and  cook  them  over  a 
hot,  clear  fire  for  six  minutes.  Arrange  them  on  a  warm 
dish,  and  strain  the  sauce  over  them.  Serve  at  once. 

Roast  Ducks. 

Tastes  vary  greatly  in  regard  to  the  time  and  mode  of 
roasting  ducks.  Domestic  ducks  are  rarely  cooked  less 
than  half  an  hour.  Wild  ducks  are  cooked  from  ten 
minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Ten  minutes  will  hardly  heat 
the  duck  through,  and  half  an  hour  will  give  only  a  mod- 
erately rare  bird.  A  duck  is  spoiled  if  overcooked ;  but 
for  the  majority  of  tastes,  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
will  give  satisfactory  results.  » 

Draw  the  duck,  and  wash  quickly  in  cold  water.  Put 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion  and  one  cupful 


302          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  chopped  celery  —  the  green  stalks  will  do  —  into  the 
body  of  each  bird.  Now  truss,  and  then  dredge  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Roast  before  a  very  hot  fire  or 
in  a  hot  oven.  Have  a  little  water  in  the  tin-kitchen  or 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  if  the  birds  be  roasted  in  the 
oven.  Baste  every  ten  minutes  with  this  and  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  flour.  Serve  very  hot  with  olive,  brown, 
or  orange  sauce.  Or  the  ducks  may  be  served  without 
sauce,  dressed  celery  or  lettuce  being  provided  instead. 
Do  not  serve  the  stuffing  of  onion  and  celery,  as  this  is 
put  in  only  to  flavor  the  bird. 

Roast  Ptarmigan. 

Pluck  and  draw  the  birds.  Wash  quickly  in  cold 
water,  and  wipe  dry.  Into  the  body  of  each  put  one 
onion,  cut  into  four  parts.  Now  truss  the  birds.  Dredge 
with  salt  and  pepper;  then  rub  the  breast  and  legs 
thickly  with  soft  butter,  and  put  a  light  layer  on  the 
sides  and  back.  Dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Place  on 
their  backs  in  a  shallow  pan,  and  cook  for  twenty  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven,  if  liked  rare, 'or  for  thirty,  if  liked 
rather  well  done.  Serve  with  bread  sauce  and  fried 
crumbs. 

Grouse,  quail,  and  partridges  are  roasted  in  the  same 
manner.  Partridges  are  cooked  for  forty  minutes,  and 
quail  for  only  ten. 

Roast  Partridge. 

For  six  persons  cook  two  partridges.  Pluck  and  draw 
them,  and  wash  them  very 
quickly  in  cold  water.  Halve 
an  onion,  and  put  a  piece 
into  the  body  of  each  bird. 
Truss  the  partridges,  and 
lard  the  breasts.  Dredge 
with  salt,  and  rub  soft  butter 
over  the  legs  and  breast;  then  dredge  the  entire  birds 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  303 

thickly  with  flour.  Place  in  a  pan,  breasts  up,  and  set 
in  a  very  hot  oven.  Eoast  for  forty  minutes,  basting 
three  times  with  butter,  water,  or  stock,  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour.  Use  half  a  dozen  table-spoonfuls  of  hot  water 
and  three  of  butter,  in  basting.  Serve  the  birds  hot, 
with  bread  sauce. 

- 

Roast  Woodcock  on  Toast. 

Pick,  singe,  and  draw  the  birds ;  then  skin  the  heads, 
and  remove  the  eyes.  Cut  off  the  feet  or  not,  as  suits 
your  fancy.  Fasten  the  legs  against  the  sides  of  the 
birds  by  turning  the  heads  backward  on  one  side,  and 
using  the  long  bills  as  skew- 
ers, as  illustrated.  Lard 
the  breasts  with  very  fine 
strips  of  salt  pork.  Dredge 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  after  rubbing  thickly 
with  soft  butter,  dredge 
with  flour.  Lay  the  birds  1 

on  their  backs  in  a  flat  pan,       Woodcock  Beady  for  Roasting, 
and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven.     Serve 
immediately  on  toast  made  of  stale  bread,  cut  into  slices 
large  enough  to  hold  a  single  bird,  and  nicely  browned. 

When  the  birds  are  drawn,  save  the  liver,  blood,  and 
lungs,  and  after  chopping  very  fine,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  butter, — two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  for 
each  bird.  Spread  this  mixture  upon  the  toast,  and 
place  the  latter  in  the  oven  for  the  last  four  minutes 
that  the  woodcocks  are  cooking.  After  the  birds  have 
been  disposed  on  the  toast,  garnish  with  water-cresses 
and  quarters  of  lemons. 

The  dish  should  be  eaten  without  delay,  or  it  will 
deteriorate. 

These  birds  frequently  are  cooked  undrawn,  only  the 
crop  being  removed. 


304          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Broiled  Grouse. 

Split  the  birds  down  the  back.  Lay  a  folded  towel  on 
the  breast,  and  strike  hard  with  the  vegetable-masher. 
This  will  flatten  the  breastbone.  Now  wipe  clean,  and 
then  dredge  with  plenty  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper. 
Rub  soft  butter  over  the  bird,  and  dredge  thickly  with 
flour.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish,  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 

In  the  time  given,  the  meat  will  be  cooked  rare ;  if 
liked  better  done,  broil  for  twenty  minutes. 

Ptarmigan  may  be  broiled  in  the  same  way. 

. 

Broiled  Partridge. 

Prepare  and  serve  the  same  as  grouse,  save  that  par- 
tridge, being  white  meat,  should  be  broiled  for  twenty- 
five  minutes. 

Small  Birds  in  Crumbs. 

For  a  dozen  reed  birds,  allow  a  pint  of  coarse  crumbs, 
half  a  cupful  of  fine  bread  crumbs,  seven  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  salt 
and  pepper. 

Draw  and  wipe  the  birds,  and  draw  the  skin  from  the 
heads  and  necks.  Cut  off  the  feet,  and  press  the  legs 
into  the  bodies.  Fasten  the  heads  under  the  wings  by 
pressing  the  bills  into  the  bodies.  When  all  the  birds 
have  been  trussed,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  roll  them  in  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
and  then  in  the  fine  bread  crumbs  and  chopped  parsley. 
Place  them  on  their  backs  on  a  tin  plate  or  in  a  tin  pan, 
and  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  five  minutes.  Have  the 
coarse  crumbs  crisp  and  brown,  and  spread  them  upon 
a  hot  dish.  Lay  the  birds  upon  this  bed  of  crumbs, 
and  pour  over  them  the  gravy  from  the  pan  in  which 
they  were  roasted.  Garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve 
immediately. 


VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING  MEAT.  305 

To  Prepare  the  Crumbs.  —  Cut  a  loaf  of  stale  bread  in 
two  from  the  side,  and  grate  on  a  coarse  grater  until  the 
top  and  the  bottom  crusts  have  been  reached  (they  can  be 
dried  and  rolled  for  breading).  Put  the  crumbs  into  a 
large  dripping-pan,  and  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  they  become  dry.  Be  careful  that  they  do  not  get 
very  brown.  Put  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a 
large  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  very  hot,  add  the  crumbs. 
Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  they  are  golden  brown  and  very 
crisp.  The  crumbs  may  be  prepared  at  any  time  during 
the  day,  but  they  must  be  made  very  hot  at  serving- 
time. 

Barded  and  Roasted  Snipe. 

Eemove  the  crop,  skin  the  head,  take  out  the  eyes,  and 
draw  the  bird  or  not,  as  your  taste  dictates.  Season  with 
salt.  Draw  the  head  down  to  the  feet.  Wrap  the  bird 
in  a  thin  slice  of  clear  salt  pork.  Bun  a  skewer  through 


Barded  Snipe. 

the  bird  to  keep  the  pork  (bard),  head,  and  feet  in  posi- 
tion. Bun  from  three  to  six  birds  on  each  skewer.  Bub 
soft  butter  over  the  parts  that  are  not  covered  with  the 
pork,  and  dredge  the  whole  bird  with  flour. 

Put  as  many  small  slices  of  toast  on  the  bottom  of  a 
shallow  cake-pan  as  there  are  snipe.  Best  the  ends  of 
the  skewers  on  the  edges  of  the  pan.  Place  in  a  very 
hot  oven,  and  cook  foff  ten  minutes.  On  taking  the  pan 
from  the  oven,  slip  one  snipe  on  each  slice  of  toast. 
Serve  immediately. 

Any  small  birds  may  be  prepared  in  this  manner. 


306          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Jugged  Rabbit. 

American  wild  rabbits  are  almost  equal  in  flavor  to 
the  English  hare,  and  may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner.  For  six  persons  take  two  rabbits,  an  onion, 
two  bay  leaves,  three  cloves,  half  a  dozen  allspice,  one 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one 
table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
sherry,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  three  cupfuls  of  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup.  If  port  be  preferred  to  sherry,  use  a  gill. 
The  dish  will  be  good  even  if  no  wine  be  used. 

Have  the  rabbits  skinned  by  .the  butcher.  Draw  them, 
and  wash  carefully  ;  then  cut  into  handsome  pieces,  and 
roll  these  in  flour.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  gets  hot,  put  in  the  meat.  Brown  well  on  both 
sides,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  When  the  meat  has 
been  well  browned,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  put  into 
the  frying-pan  such  flour  as  remained  after  the  meat  was 
rolled  in  it.  Stir  until  the  mixture  gets  smooth ;  then 
add  the  water,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  this 
liquid  over  the  meat  in  the  stew-pan.  Add  the  spice, 
salt,  pepper,  and  the  onion,  uncut.  Cover  closely,  and 
simmer  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  then  add  the  wine, 
lemon  juice,  and  ketchup.  Arrange  the  rabbit  on  a  warm 
platter,  and  strain  the  sauce  over  it.  Serve  with  a  dish 
of  boiled  rice. 


ENTRIES. 


307 


ENTRIES. 


Fillet  of   Beef. 

WITH  a  sharp  knife,  remove  the  tough  membrane  from 
the  upper  side  of  a  tenderloin.  This  is  done  in  the  same 
manner  as  skinning  a  fish.  Fold  the  thin  end  under, 
and  skewer  it  into  position ;  then  lard  it.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Now  rub  soft  butter  over  it,  and  dredge 
thickly  with  flour.  Place  in  a  dripping-pan,  larded  side 


Larded  Fillet  of  Beef. 

up,  and  roast  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes,  if 
desired  very  rare,  or  for  thirty,  if  moderately  rare.  It 
will  not  require  any  basting.  Serve  with  any  of  the 
following-named  sauces  poured  around  it :  mushroom, 
Spanish,  Chateaubriand,  or  financiere. 

Should  only  a  small  fillet  be  required,  have  it  cut  from 
the  thickest  part  of  the  tenderloin.  Cook  it  the  same 
time  and  in  the  same  manner  as  if  it  were  a  whole 
tenderloin. 

When  the  entire  tenderloin  is  used,  it  should  be  carved 
in  the  centre ;  but  when  only  a  few  pounds  are  used,  the 


-  308          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Larded  Fillet  of  Beef. 

carving  is  done  from  the  end.  Sometimes  the  smaller 
piece  in  the  above  illustration  is  cut  from  the  fillet  and 
sliced  and  then  replaced,  before  the  dish  is  sent  to  the 
table. 

Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Bearnaise. 

For  eight  persons  allow  about  three  pounds  of  the 
tenderloin  of  beef.  Out  it  in  slices  about  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  these  slices  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  flour,  and  broil  over  a  bright  fire  for  seven  minutes. 
Place  on  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  hot  Bearnaise  sauce 
around  the  meat.  Serve  at  once. 


Fillet  Steaks  with  Olives. 

Cut  six  steaks  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  fillet. 
They  should  be  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick. 
Now  cut  each  slice  into  two  triangular  pieces.  Sprinkle 
a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  over  them,  and  brush  them 
over  with  olive  oil  or  melted  butter.  Put  them  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour  or  more. 

Stone  the  olives,  and  simmer  in  clear  stock  for  half  an 
hour.  Have  a  brown  sauce  ready.  Ten  minutes  before 
serving-time,  put  the  steaks  to  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 
Cook  them  for  six  minutes.  Arrange  in  a  circle,  with 
the  points  overlapping,  on  a  warm  dish  j  fill  the  centre 


ENTREES.  309 


with  the  olives.     Pour  the  brown  sauce  around 'the  meat, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

With  the  six  slices  of  steak,  use  three  gills  of  brown 
sauce  and  two  dozen  olives. 

Fillet  Steaks  a  la  Chateaubriand. 

Have  the  steaks  cut  from  the  best  part  of  the  tender- 
loin and  about  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick.  Rub  them 
with  a  slice  of  onion,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
brush  melted  butter  or  olive  oil  over  them.  Broil  over 
clear  coals  for  ten  minutes.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  pour  Chateaubriand  sauce  over  them.  Garnish  with 
potato  balls  saute. 

For  ten  persons  use  five  or  six  slices  of  tenderloin,  one 
pint  of  sauce,  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  potato  balls. 

Grenadins  of  Fillet  of  Beef. 

Cut  five  slices,  each  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick, 
from  the  thickest  part  of  a  tenderloin  of  beef.     Trim 
them  into  a  regular  shape.     Lard  them  on  one  side  with 
fine  lardoons,  which  should  be  not  much  thicker  than  a 
match.     Place   them  with   as   much 
regularity  as   possible.     Season   the 
grenadins  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll 
them  in  melted  butter,  and  lay  them 
in   a  dripping-pan   with  the  larded      A  Larded  Grenadin. 
side   up.     Cook   in   a  hot   oven  for 
eight  minutes.     Take  the  pan  from  the  oven,  and  pour 
off  the  fat. 

Have  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Madeira  and  three  of 
glaze  heated  together.  Baste  the  grenadins  with  this, 
and  return  to  the  oven  for  two  minutes.  Arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  mushroom  or  any  rich  brown 

sauce  around  them. 

v 

The  matter  of  larding  is  very  simple,  and  yet  many 
persons  fail  in  this  because  they  do  not  understand  the 


310 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


few  principles  necessary  for  the  work.  In  the  first  place, 
the  pork  must  be  of  the  right  kind.  It  should  always  be 
firm  and  free  from  lean.  The  dry-salted  is  best  when  it 
can  be  obtained.  The  surface  of  the  rind  of  the  pork 
should  be  level,  or  nearly  so.  When  it  curves  it  is  im- 
possible to  cut  even  slices  from  it. 

Measure  to  see  how  long  you  want  the  lardoons  (the 
little  strips  of  pork).  Now  cut  the  piece  of  pork  this 
length.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  off  the  rind,  and  then 
cut  slices  thick  or  thin,  as  you  may  desire  your  lar- 


Method  of  Larding  Meat. 


. 


doons  large  or  small.  The  slices  must  be  cut  parallel 
with  the  rind  and  only  to  the  line  in  the  pork  which 
shows  that  a  newer  and  softer  layer  of  fat  had  formed 
beyond  it.  This  part  of  the  pork  will  not  nerve  for 
lardoons,  as  the  fibres  are  too  loose  and  will  break  when 
the  lardoon  is  drawn  through  the  meat.  Cut  the  slices 
of  pork  into  strips  that  are  of  equal  breadth  on  all  four 
sides,  so  that  the  ends  form  a  square.  Great  care  must 
be  taken  that  these  strips  are  cut  even,  because  if 
uneven  there  will  be  difficulty  in  drawing  them  through 


ENTRIES.  311 


the  meat.  Put  these  lardoons  into  a  bowl  with  plenty 
of  ice  and  a  little  water.  This  will  harden  them. 

Put  a  lardoon  into  the  needle.  Run  this  into  the 
article  to  be  larded.  It  should  go  about  one-third  of  an 
inch  under  the  surface  of  the  flesh,  and  the  point  should 
come  out  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  from  the  place 
where  it  went  in. 

When  the  needle  is  nearly  through,  hold  the  end  of  the 
lardoon  with  one  hand  to  prevent  its  being  drawn  farther 
into  the  meat.  About  one-third  of  the  lardoon  must  be 
exposed  at  each  end,  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

Sweetbreads,  grenadins,  and  fillets  of  game  or  fowl 
require  lardoons  about  the  size  of  a  large  match.  Fillets 
of  beef  and  fricandeaux  of  veal  should  have  lardoons 
four  times  as  large.  Lardoons  for  small  birds  should 
be  twice  as  large  as  for  sweetbreads  ;  and  for  grouse,  par- 
tridge, ptarmigan,  etc.,  about  three  times  as  large  as  for 
sweetbreads. 

If  these  directions  be  followed  carefully,  one  will  find 
no  difficulty  in  larding. 

Paupiettes  of  Fillet  of  Beef,  with  Olives. 

There  will  be  required  for  this  dish  one  pound  and  a 
half  of  the  tenderloin  of  beef,  cut  from  the  thickest  part, 
the  materials  named  in  the  rule  for  dark  chicken  force- 
meat, two  dozen  stuffed  olives,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  con- 
somme", four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  table-spoonful  of  arrowroot,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

Cut  the  tenderloin  in  very  thin  slices.  Paupiette  of 
There  should  be  seven  slices.  Cut  each 
slice  in  two,  lengthwise.  Spread  these  strips  on  a  board, 
and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  a  thin 
layer  of  the  force-meat  on  each  strip  of  meat ;  then  roll 
this  up  and  tie  it.  Put  the  butter  into  a  flat  stew-pan, 


312          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  place  it  on  the  fire.  When  it  is  hot,  put  in  the 
paupiettes,  and  cook  them  until  brown  on  all  sides. 
They  must  be  watched  carefully,  arid  turned  often. 
When  they  are  all  browned,  pour  over  them  one  pint  of 
consomme.  Cover  closely,  and  set  back  where  they  will 
simmer  for  one  hour.  At  the  end  of  this  time  mix  the 
arrowroot  with  one  gill  of  cold  consomme,  and  stir  it 
into  the  gravy  in  which  the  paupiettes  are  cooking. 
Simmer  half  an  hour  longer. 

Put  the  olives  into  a  small  saucepan  with  the  remain- 
ing gill  of  consomme,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Now 
take  up  the  paupiettes,  cut  the  strings,  and  remove  them. 
Arrange  the  paupiettes  in  the  centre  of  a  dish,  and  gar- 
nish with  the  olives.  Strain  the  sauce  over  the  meat,  and 
serve.  This  dish  will  be  sufficient  for  a  party  of  twelve. 

Paupiettes  of  Fillet  of  Beef,  with  Mushrooms. 

Prepare  and  cook  the  meat  as  for  paupiettes  with 
olives.  Add  one  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms  ten  minutes 
before  serving.  If  the  mushrooms  be  large,  cut  them. 
If  it  be  inconvenient  to  obtain  fresh  mushrooms,  use 
the  canned  ;  but  in  that  case  cook  them  five  minutes. 

*  Beefsteak,  with  Fried  Spanish  Onions. 

For  this  dish  there  will  be  required  a  steak  cut  an 
inch  thick,  and  weighing  about  two  pounds  and  a  half, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  (unless 
there  be  objection  to  the  use  of  any  whatever),  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  two  good-sized  Spanish  onions,  and 
some  fat,  for  the  purpose  of  frying. 

Put  a  kettle  of  fat  on  to  heat.  Pare  the  onions,  and 
slice  them  as  thin  as  possible.  Place  them  in  a  fryirig- 
basket,  ready  for  cooking.  Dredge  the  steak  with  the 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  the  salt,  and  all  the  flour ; 
then  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire  for  ten  minutes,  turning 


ENTRIES.  313 


constantly.  During  the  first  four  minutes  keep  the  steak 
as  near  the  coals  as  possible,  but  for  the  remaining  time 
hold  the  broiler  at  a  little  distance  from  the  coals.  By 
this  mode  of  broiling,  the  steak  will  be  left  juicy  and 
will  be  cooked  evenly,  being  nearly  as  rare  just  below 
the  surface  as  in  the  centre. 

As  soon  as  the  meat  is  taken  from  the  fire,  put  the 
basket  of  sliced  onions  into  the  boiling  fat,  and  cook  for 
three  minutes.  In  that  time  the  onions  ought  to  turn 
a  rich  brown  color;  they  also  should  be  crisp.  Place 
the  steak  on  a  warm  dish,  and  spread  the  butter  over  it. 
Drain  the  onions,  and  arrange  them  around  the  steak. 
Serve  at  once. 

The  onions  may  be  served  on  a  separate  dish  instead 
of  round  the  steak.  They  are  also  suitable  to  serve 
with  any  kind  of  roasted  or  broiled  meat. 

*  Marrow-bones. 

Beef  marrow,  when  well  cooked,  is  considered  by  some 
people  as  a  great  delicacy.  Have  the  bones  cut  either 
two  or  four  inches  long.  Make  a  stiff  dough  with  flour 


Marrow-bones  and  Tenderloin  Steak. 

and  water.  Wash  and  wipe  the  bones.  Eoll  the  dough 
on  the  board  until  it  is  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  out  pieces  about  two  inches  square  to  cover  the  ends 
of  the  marrow-bones.  Pin  the  bones  in  a  piece  of  cloth, 
and  after  laying  them  in  a  stew-pan,  cover  with  boiling 


314          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

water  and  boil  for  one  hour.  Now  take  them  up,  and 
remove  the  cloth  and  paste.  If  the  marrow  is  to  be 
served  in  the  long  bones,  they  must  have  small  fringed 
napkins  pinned  around  them.  They  are  passed  with 
little  squares  of  buttered  toast.  There  must  be  a  small 
spoon,  having  a  long  handle,  with  which  to  take  put  the 
marrow. 

Another  way  is  to  have  the  bones  cut  about  two  inches 
long,  and  when  the  marrow  is  done,  put  a  bone  in  the 
centre  of  a  small  slice  of  buttered  toast.  Serve  each 
guest  with  one  of  these. 

"Still  another  way  is  to  cook  the  marrow  in  the  long 
bones  and  then  spread  it  on  hot  toast. 

No  matter  what  mode  of  cooking  is  followed,  the  dish 
must  be  served  very  hot.  It  is  usual  to  season  the 
marrow  with  cayenne.  This  dish  may  be  served  at 
luncheon  or  supper. 

The  butcher  will  cut  the  bones  any  length  you  wish. 
Marrow-bones  are  frequently  served  on  broiled  steak, 
particularly  tenderloin. 

*  Stewed  Ox  Tails,  with  Turnips. 

For  six  persons  use  three  ox  tails,  1;hree  table-spoonfuls 
of  chopped  onion,  two  of  chopped  carrot,  two  of  chopped 
celery,  four  of  butter,  four  of  flour,  one  pint  of  water, 
one  pint  and  a  half  of  stock,  one  quart  of  turnips,  cut 
into  small  cubes,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  salt  and 
pepper  in  quantities  to  suit  your  taste. 

Cut  the  tails  at  the  joints,  and  wash  them  carefully. 
Cover  them  with  cold  water,  and  let  them  soak  for  an 
hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  them  into  a  stew-pan 
with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  for 
ten  minutes.  Drain  off  all  the  water,  and  after  putting 
into  the  pan  a  pint  of  fresh  boiling  water  and  a  pint  of 
the  stock,  set  the  pan  where  its  contents  will  simmer. 
Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  all  the  chopped 


ENTRIES.  315 


vegetables  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for 
ten  minutes  ;  then  set  the  pan  where  the  vegetables  will 
cook  rapidly  for  two  minutes.  Stir  constantly  all  the 
while.  Draw  the  vegetables  to  one  side  of  the  pan,  and 
press  out  the  butter ;  then  put  them  with  the  ox  tails. 
Stir  the  flour  into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan,  and 
continue  stirring  until  the  flour  becomes  dark  brown. 
Add  this  mixture  to  the  contents  of  the  stew-pan,  and 
stir  well.  Add  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper;  then  cover  closely,  and  simmer 
for  three  hours. 

When  the  ox  tails  have  been  cooking  for  two  hours, 
put  the  quart  of  turnips  into  a  stew-pan  with  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  thirty  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  drain  off  all  the  water,  and  add  to  the 
turnips  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  stock. 
Set  the  pan  where  the  contents  will  boil  rapidly  until  all 
the  liquid  has  been  absorbed  by  the  turnips.  Shake  the 
stew-pan  frequently  during  the  cooking,  and  finally  set 
it  back  where  the  contents  will  keep  hot  until  serving- 
time. 

Now  skim  off  any  fat  which  may  have  accumulated  on 
the  surface  of  the  liquid  or  gravy  in  which  the  ox  tails 
are  cooking.  Taste  the  gravy,  to  be  sure  that  it  is  prop- 
erly seasoned ;  then  transfer  the  ox  tails  to  the  centre  of 
a  warm  platter,  and  strain  the  gravy  over  them.  Heap 
the  turnip  around  the  meat. 

This  is  not  a  handsome  dish,  but  it  is  delicious. 
Carrots  or  other  vegetables  may  be  used  instead  of  tur- 
nips as  a  garnish. 

Ox  Palates. 

These  are  not  used  much  in  cookery,  except  by  pro- 
fessionals who  understand  their  value  as  the  foundation 
of  many  nice  entrees.  Not  being  in  great  demand,  they 
are  cheap.  The  bony,  hard  palate,  which  forms  the 


316          MISS  PAELOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

roof  of  the  mouth,  is  the  most  desirable  part ;  the  soft, 
hanging  palate  is  not  generally  used  in  the  little  entrees 
included  in  the  following  receipts.  The  palates  must  be 
cleaned  and  boiled  before  they  are  used  in  any  form. 
Three  will  be  enough  for  an  entree  for  eight  persons. 

Put  the  palates  into  a  large  pan  with  three  or  four 
quarts  of  water,  and  soak  for  three  or  four  hours. 
Change  the  water  three  times.  Now  wash  the  palates 
thoroughly  in  two  or  three  waters.  Put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  with  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  and  heat 
them  to  the  boiling-point.  Boil  for  ten  minutes  ;  then 
pour  off  the  water,  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Scrape 
off  the  skin,  and  wash  again.  Now  put  the  palates  into 
the  stew-pan  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them, 
and  boil  gently  for  five  hours.  At  the  end  of  four  hours 
put  into  the  pan  an  onion,  a  carrot,  two  cloves,  a  bay 
leaf,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  vinegar,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

When  the  palates  are  done,  drain  them,  and  spread 
them  in  a  large  flat  pan.  Place  a  tin  sheet  or  pan  on  top 
of  them,  and  on  this  put  a  weight,  —  two  bricks  will  do. 
Set  the  palates  in  a  cold  place  until  it  is  time  to  prepare 
them  for  an  entre'e. 


Breaded  Ox  Palates. 

Cut  some  pressed  palates  into  pieces  about  four  inches 
long  and  three  broad.  Put  these  into  a  bowl,  and  pour 
over  them  a  marinade  made  in  the  following  manner: 
Mix  in  a  cup  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  two  of 
oil,  one  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Let 
the  meat  stand  in  this  seasoning  for  two  or  three  hours, 
stirring  it  occasionally,  that  all  parts  may  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  liquid.  Now  dip  the  meat  in  beaten  eggs, 
and  then  roll  them  in  bread  crumbs.  Place  in  a  frying- 
basket,  and  cook  in  fat  for  two  minutes.  Drain  on  brown 
paper,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  tomato  sauce. 


ENTRIES.  317 


Broiled  Palates. 

Cut  the  pressed  palates  into  strips  about  five  inches 
long  and  four  wide.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  with  a  little  lemon  juice,  if  you  choose.  Dip  in 
melted  butter  and  then  roll  in  bread  crumbs,  and  broil 
over  clear  coals  until  the  meat  turns  a  delicate  brown 
color.  It  will  take,  about  six  minutes'  cooking.  Serve 
with  mushroom,  tomato,  Bechamel,  Hollandaise,  or  some 
other  sauce. 

Curry  of  Ox  Palates. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  three  pressed  palates, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  one  level 
table-spoonful  of  curry-powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful 
of  chopped  onion,  and  two  cupfuls  of  stock. 

Cut  the  palates  into  small  squares  or  triangles,  and 
place  them  in  a  stew-pan.  Put  the  onion  and  butter  in 
a  frying-pan,  and  cook  until  the  onion  is  slightly 
browned;  then  add  the  flour  and  curry-powder.  Stir 
and  cook  until  the  mixture  becomes  smooth  and  frothy  ; 
then  draw  the  frying-pan  to  a  cooler  part  of  the  range, 
and  gradually  add  the  stock,  stirring  all  the  while. 

When  all  the  stock  has  been  added,  move  the  pan 
forward  to  the  hot  part  of  the  range.  Add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  fre- 
quently. Now  strain  this  sauce  over  the  palates,  and 
let  them  cook  for  five  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
add  one  gill  of  stock  or  water,  and  boil  up  once.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Plain  boiled  rice  should  be  served  with  this  dish. 

Ox  Palates  a  la  Poulette. 

Cut  the  pressed  palates  into  small  squares.  Season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  stock  or  milk. 
Cook  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  drain  them.  Arrange  in 
a  warm  dish,  and  pour  poulette  sauce  over  them. 


318          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Ox  Palates,  with  Mushrooms. 

For  this  dish  use  one  can  of  mushrooms,  two  palates, 
one  cupful  of  stock,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cut  the  palates  in  small  squares,  and  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  with  the  mushrooms.  Put. the  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan, and  place  this  on  the  fire ;  and  when  it  becomes 
hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  until  the  flour  gets  brown ;  then 
add  the  stock  and  the  water  from  the  mushroom  can. 
Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  After  adding 
the  salt  and  pepper,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  mush- 
rooms and  palates,  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 

Ox  palates  may  be  warmed  in  stock,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  served  with  any  kind  of  sauce. 
The  sauce  should  have  a  decided  flavor,  as  the  palates 
have  so  little. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. 

For  a  fricandeau  weighing  four  pounds  use  one-fourth 
of  a  pound  of  larding  pork,  two  table-spoonfuls  each  of 
minced  carrot,  turnip,  onion,  and  celery,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
white  stock,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch, 
flour  for  dredging,  and  one  gill  of  glaze. 

Wet  a  board  and  the  vegetable-masher  in  cold  water. 
Place  the  fricandeau  on  the  board,  and  skewer  the  fat 
around  it.  Beat  it  gently  with  the  vegetable-masher 
until  it  is  only  about  three  inches  thick.  Beat  it  a 
little  harder  near  the  edges  than  in  the  centre,  as  there 
should  be  a  little  slope  from  the  centre  toward  the 
edges.  Now  lard  the  meat  on  the  beaten  side. 

Cut  the  remainder  of  the  pork  into  thin  slices,  and 
arrange  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  deep  baking-pan. 
Sprinkle  the  chopped  vegetables  on  the  pork.  Now  lay 


ENTRIES.  319 


the   fricandeau,   larded   side  up,  on    the   bed   of   pork 
and  vegetables,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Butter  a  sheet   of   foolscap   generously   on  both   sides. 
Lay  this  over  the  fricaudeau.     Place  the  pan  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.     Watch 
carefully,  to  prevent  the  vegetables  from  burning.     At 
the    end    of    the 
half -hour     add 
half  a  pint  of  the 
hot  stock,  basting 
the  meat  with  it ; 
but  do  not  remove 
the  buttered    pa- 
per.    Dredge  with  Fricandeau  of  Veal,  Larded, 
salt,  pepper,   and 

flour.  Cook  for  two  hours  and  a  half  longer,  basting 
every  fifteen  minutes  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  As  the  gravy  cooks  away,  add 
more  stock.  Let  the  fricandeau  cook  for  the  last  fifteen 
minutes  without  the  buttered  paper  on.  Just  before 
taking  it  from  the  oven,  brush  the  gill  of  melted  glaze 
over  it.  Close  the  oven  door,  and  let  it  cook  two  min- 
utes longer.  On  taking  it  from  the  oven  place  on  a 
smooth  bed  of  minced  spinach. 

Put  on  the  range  the  pan  in  which  the  fricandeau  was 
cooked.  Mix  the  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  the  gravy.  Boil  for  three  minutes  ; 
then  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  more  salt  and  pepper,  if 
any  be  needed.  Strain,  and  serve  with  the  fricandeau. 
Should  there  be  any  fat  floating  on  the  gravy,  skim  it 
off. 

Success  in  making  this  dish  depends  upon  slow  cook- 
ing. If  the  oven  be  so  hot  that  the  gravy  boils  in  the 
pan,  the  piece  of  meat  will  be  spoiled. 

There  should  be  a  pint  of  gravy  when  it  is  finished. 
Should  there  be  less,  add  boiling  water  enough  to  make 
a  pint. 


320 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Veal  Cutlets  a  la  Francaise. 

Either  half  a  dozen  rib  chops  or  two  slices  from  a  leg 
of  veal  will  be  needed.     If  chops  be  used,  have  them 

freed  from  the 
backbone  and 
have  the  ribs  cut 
short ;  if  slices 
from  the  leg  be 
taken,  have  them 
half  an  inch 
thick,  and  cut 
each  into  four 
Veal  Cutlet  before  Trimming.  pieces.  The  other 

necessaries    a  r  e 

half  a  dozen  button  onions  or  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
onion,  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
strained  tomato,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy,  a 
scant  half-pint  of  water,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Season  the  meat  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  oil 
into  a  large  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become  hot,  put 
in  the  onions,  if  button 
onions  are  to  be  used. 
Cook  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  while; 
then  put  in  the  cutlets, 
and  cook  until  brown  on 
both  sides.  Pour  off  the 
oil,  and  gradually  sub- 
stitute the  half-pint  of 

water.  Put  in  also  the  tomato,  mushrooms,  parsley,  and 
brandy;  and  after  covering  the  frying-pan  closely,  let 
the  cutlets  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  very  hot. 

If  chopped  onion  be  used,  put  it  into  the  pan  with  the 
meat,  and  not  previously,  as  with  button  onions. 


Veal  Cutlet  after  Trimming. 


ENTREES.  321 


Veal  Chops. 

For  ten  chops  there  will  be  required  ten  rib  bones 
from  a  piece  of  mutton,  two  pounds  of  veal,  cut  from  the 
leg,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs,  two  of 
stock,  five  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sage,  of  summer  savory,  of  sweet 
marjoram,  and  of  thyme,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold 
water,  and  a  heaping  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Chop  the  meat  very  fine,  and  add  to  it  half  of  the 
cracker  crumbs,  all  the  herbs,  the  pepper,  about  three- 
fourths  of  the  salt,  half  a  cupful  of  the  stock,  two  of  the 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter. 
Mix  all  these  ingredients  thoroughly ;  and  after  dividing 
the  mixture  into  ten  parts,  put  one  of  the  rib  bones  with 
each  part,  and  shape  like  mutton  chops.  Beat  the  third 
egg  well,  and  add  the  water  to  it.  After  dipping  the 
chops  in  the  egg,  roll  them  gently  in  the  remaining 
cracker  crumbs.  Place  the  breaded  chops  in  a  baking- 
pan,  and  take  the  next  step  in  the  work. 

Put  the  remaining  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a 
stew-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  so  hot  that  it  begins  to 
turn  brown,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it 
turns  dark  brown.  Now  add  the  remainder  of  the  stock, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Boil  for  three  minutes,  and  then 
add  the  salt. 

Put  the  pan  of  chops  into  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  for 
half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  the  first  ten  minutes  baste 
with  the  gravy ;  and  baste  every  five  minutes  afterward, 
—  four  times  in  all. 

When  the  chops  are  done,  arrange  them  on  a  warm 
dish.  Scrape  all  the  gravy  from  the  pan  in  which  they 
were  baked,  and  put  it  with  the  sauce.  Let  the  sauce 
boil  up  once,  and  pour  it  around  the  chops. 

The  dish  may  be  much  improved  by  the  addition  of 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  mushrooms  to  the  sauce.  If 

21 


322          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

used,  they  should  be  added  after  the  last  basting;  thus 
receiving  five  minutes'  cooking. 

*  Crumbed  Lamb  Cutlets. 

Have  three  slices,  about  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  from  a 
leg  of  lamb.  Mix  well  in  a  cup  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  and  rub  the  mix- 
ture over  the  slices  of  lamb.  Cover  the  dish  in  which 
the  meat  lies,  and  put  it  away  for  an  hour  or  more. 
When  ready  to  cook  the  cutlets,  spread  them  lightly 
with  melted  butter,  and  dip  them  in  fine  bread  crumbs. 
Cook  in  a  double-broiler  over  a  moderate  fire  for  eight 
minutes.  Serve  hot,  with  asparagus  sauce  or  any  deli- 
cate sauce.  They  are  delectable  even  without  any 
accompaniment. 

Lamb  Chops  in  Paper  Cases. 

Fold  and  cut  thick  sheets  of  white  paper  so  that  when 
opened  they  will  be  heart-shaped.  Each  sheet  should 
be  about  nine  inches  long  and  five  and  a  half  wide.  Dip 

all    in    olive-oil   or 
melted  butter,  being 
careful    that   every 
part  is   well   oiled. 
Set  them  aside  until 
the  chops  are  ready. 
Have   the    chops 
Chop  in  Paper  Case.  cut    from    the    ribs. 

The  rib  bone  must 

be  scraped  clean.  Season  the  chops  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  then  dip  them  in  melted  butter.  Now  place  them 
on  one  side  of  the  papers,  having  the  bones  turned 
toward  the  centre.  Fold  the  papers  carefully,  turning 
in  the  edges.  Place  in  the  broiler,  and  cook  over  a 


ENTRIES. 


323 


moderate  fire  for  eight  minutes,  if  the  chops  be  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  in 
the  papers  in  which  they  were  broiled. 

The  secret  of  broiling  in  paper  is  to  have  every  part 
of  the  paper  well  oiled.  While  cooking,  the  broiler 
must  be  turned  constantly.  If  these  directions  be 
followed  carefully,  the  paper  will  turn  only  a  delicate 
brown. 

Mutton  Cutlets  a  la  Maintenon. 

For  six  cutlets  use  the  following-named  materials : 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of 
chopped  onion,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
one  of  flour,  three  of  stock,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  one  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonfui  of  pepper, 
and  three  gills  of  Spanish  sauce. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together  for  five  minutes ; 
then  add  the  mushrooms  and  seasoning,  and  cook  five 
minutes  longer.  Now  add  the  flour,  and  stir  wel} ;  then 
add  the  stock,  and  cook  three  minutes  longer.  Let  this 
mixture  cool. 

Have  the  cutlets  cut  from  the  ribs,  and  cut  one  inch  and 
a  half  thick.  Trim  the  rib  bones  as  for  French  chops. 

With  a  sharp  knife,  split 
the   chops  in  two  without 


Cutlet  before  Trimming. 


Cutlet  after  Trimming. 


separating  them  at  the  bone.  Spread  the  cooked  mixture 
inside,  and  then  press  lightly  together  again.  Broil  for 
eight  minutes  over  clear  coals.  Arrange  on  a  warm  dish, 
and  pour  the  Spanish  sauce  around  them.  Serve  very 
hot. 


324          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Breslau  of  Cold  Meat. 

For  eight  persons  use  one  pint  of  lean  cooked  meat, 
chopped  fine,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  grated  stale  bread,  a 
pint  of  stock  or  milk,  three  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, one  of  flour,  two  of  minced  onion,  and  one  each  of 
minced  carrot  and  minced  parsley. 

Mix  the  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley  with  the  chopped 
meat.  Put  the  butter,  onion,  and  carrot  into  a  small 
stew-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Now  add 
the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  frothy.  Gradually 
add  the  stock  or  milk,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Rub  this 
liquid  through  a  strainer  and  on  the  bread.  Let  this 
stand  until  cold;  then  add  the  meat  and  well-beaten 
eggs  to  the  soaked  bread. 

Butter  eight  small  dariole  moulds  ;  or  custard  cups  will 
do  if  the  moulds  are  not  at  hand.  Put  the  mixture  into 
them.  Now  place  the  moulds  in  a  pan  of  warm  water, 
having  the  water  come  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top 
of  the  moulds.  Cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  cook 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  At  serving-time 
turn  out  on  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  a  good  sauce  around 
them.  The  sauce  should  be  white  or  yellow  for  light 
meats,  and  brown  for  dark  meats. 

This  dish  is  suitable  for  luncheon,  dinner,  or  supper. 

Braised  Tongue  a  la  Jardiniere. 

After  washing  a  fresh  beef  tongue,  run  through  the 
roots  and  end  of  it  a  trussing-needle  threaded  with  strong 
twine,  and  draw  tightly  enough  to  make  the  ends  of  the 
tongue  meet.  Tie  the  twine  firmly.  Cover  the  meat 
with  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  for  two  hours ;  then 
remove  it  from  the  kettle  and  skin  it. 

Put  six  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  braisiug-pan, 
and  when  it  has  become  hot,  put  in  half  a  small  carrot, 


ENTRIES.  825 


half  a  small  turnip,  and  an  onion,  all  cut  fine.  Cook  for 
five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while;  then  remove  the 
vegetables. 

Koll  the  tongue  in  dry  flour,  and  put  it  into  the  brais- 
ing-pan  with  the  butter  in  which  the  vegetables  were 
fried.  Brown  one  side ;  then  turn  the  tongue  and  brown 
the  other  side.  Add  the  cooked  vegetables  and  a  quart 
of  the  water  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled.  Cover  the 
pan,  and  cook  slowly  in  the  oven  for  two  hours,  basting 
every  fifteen  minutes. 

Mix  a  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful 
of  cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  gravy  in  the  braising-pan. 
There  should  be  a  pint  and  a  half  of  this  gravy ;  and  if 
there  be  less,  add  some  of  the  water  in  which  the  tongue 
was  boiled.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Take  up 
the  tongue,  and  cut  and  remove  the  string  with  which 
it  was  fastened.  Strain  the  gravy  over  the  meat,  and 
put  groups  of  stewed  carrots,  stewed  turnips,  French 
peas,  and  potato  balls  around  it.  Serve  immediately, 
with  extra  dishes  of  the  vegetables  named. 

This  work  may  seem  very  complex ;  yet  it  is  not  diffi- 
cult, and  the  dish  is  so  tempting  and  palatable  that  it 
repays  one  for  taking  a  good  deal  of  trouble. 

*  Brown  Fricassee  of  Sheep's  Tongues. 

The  day  before  the  fricassee  is  to  be  served,  wash  the 
tongues  carefully,  and,  putting  them  into  a  stew-pan  con- 
taining boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  simmer 
them  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  set  them 
away  to  cool ;  and  when  they  are  cool,  take  them  from 
the  water,  rid  them  of  their  roots,  and  cut  them  in  two 
lengthwise.  Put  them  in  a  cool  place  until  morning. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  persons,  use  half  a 
dozen  tongues.  In  the  morning  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  upon  a  plate  two  generous  table-spoonfuls 


326          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  flour,  and  roll  the  tongues  in  it.  Put  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot, 
put  in  the  tongues  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion. 
Cook  until  the  meat  gets  browned  on  all  sides.  Add 
what  flour  remains  on  the  plate,  and  stir  until  the  Horn- 
is  smooth ;  then  slowly  add  a  pint  of  stock,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper;  then  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  send  the  dish  to  the 
table.  This  fricassee  is  nice  for  luncheon,  especially  if 
a  dish  of  boiled  rice  accompany  it.  Tongues  cost  only  a 
few  cents  apiece. 

*  Braised  Lambs'  Tongues. 

Put  six  lambs'  tongues  into  a  stew-pan,  and,  after 
covering  with  boiling  water,  simmer  gently  for  two  hours. 
Take  them  up  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and,  throwing 
them  into  cold  water,  skin  them.  Put  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until 
~A,  becomes  dark  brown ;  then  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
the  water  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled.  Boil  up  once, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  lemon  juice.  Put  the  tongues  into  a  deep  pan,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  them.  Add  a  bay  leaf,  a  clove,  a 
stalk  of  celery,  half  a  small  onion,  and  a  sprig  of  pars- 
ley. Cover  the  pan,  and  put  it  into  a  very  moderate 
oven.  Cook  slowly  for  one  hour.  At  serving-time 
arrange  the  tongues  at  the  base  of  a  casserole  of  pota- 
toes. Strain  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  them,  and  serve 

immediately. 
J 

Breaded  Calves'  Brains. 

Let  the  brains  of  two  calves  stand  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour;  then  remove  the  thin  membrane  that 
covers  them,  and  see  that  they  are  perfectly  white  and 
free  of  blood-filled  veins.  Divide  each  calf's  brains  into 


ENTRIES.  327 


six  parts,  thus  obtaining  twelve  parts  in  all,  and  tie  up 
each  part  in  a  small  piece  of  thin  muslin.  Drop  all  into 
a  pan  of  boiling  water, — just  enough  to  cover  them, — 
and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  take  them  up;  and  after  changing  the  hot  water 
for  cold  water,  put  them  back  into  the  pan.  When  they 
have  been  cooled,  remove  them  from  the  muslin,  and 
season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  an  egg,  and 
season  it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  the  brains  into  it, 
and  roll  them  in  fine  bread  crumbs.  When  all  have  been 
breaded,  put  them  into  the  fry  ing-basket,  and  set  them 
into  a  kettle  of  boiling  fat.  Cook  for  two  minutes,  and 
serve  with  either  ravigote  or  cream  sauce. 

Escaloped  Calves'  Brains. 

Two  sets  of  brains  will  be  required,  besides  a  pint  of 
grated  bread  crumbs,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  an  egg,  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  grain  of  pepper, 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 

After  soaking  the  brains  in  warm  water  for  two  hours, 
free  them  from  the  skin  and  large  fibres,  and  wash  them 
in  cold  water.  Tie  them  loosely  in  a  piece  of  thin 
muslin,  and,  putting  them  into  a  saucepan,  pour  in 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Add  the  spoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  then  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  take  them  from  the  boiling  water, 
and  plunge  into  cold  water;  and  when  they  get  cold, 
drain  them,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
gets  hot,  and  before  it  turns  brown,  add  the  flour.  Stir 
until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  gradually  add  the  milk. 
When  this  mixture  boils  up,  add  the  chopped  parsley, 
onion  juice,  and  half  the  pepper  and  salt.  Sprinkle  the 
remainder  of  the  seasoning  on  the  brains.  Beat  the  egg 


328          MISS    PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

till  light,  and  mix  it  with  the  brains.  Put  a  thin  layer 
of  crumbs  on  the  bottom  of  an  escalop  dish,  then  spread 
a  layer  of  brains  (using  half  the  entire  quantity),  next 
add  half  the  sauce,  and  finally  add  a  thin  layer  of  crumbs. 
Now  put  in  second  layers  of  brains  and  sauce,  and  finish 
by  using  the  remainder  of  the  crumbs.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  twenty  minutes.  It  makes  the  dish  richer, 
but  less  delicate,  to  cut  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter into  bits,  and  strew  these  upon  the  top  layer  of 
crumbs. 

Sweetbreads  with  Brown  Sauce. 

For  two  pairs  of  sweetbreads  the  following-named 
materials  will  be  required :  one  pint  of  clear  brown 
stock,  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  clove,  salt  and  pepper  for 
seasoning,  and  a  piece  of  carrot,  of  onion,  and  of  celery, 
each  about  an  inch  square  (bear  in  mind  that  these  are 
not  expected  to  be  cubes,  but  simply  pieces  about  an 
inch  square). 

Clean  the  sweetbreads,  and  soak  them  in  a  pan  of 
water  for  an  hour  or  more ;  then  put  them  in  a  stew-pan, 
with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  them  up,  and 
put  them  in  cold  water  for  two  minutes.  On  removing 
them  from  the  cold  water,  rub  a  table-spoonful  of  butter 
over  them,  and  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  in  a 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  basting  with  brown  sauce 
every  five  minutes. 

Brown  Sauce. —  To  make  the  sauce,  put  into  a  stew-pan 
the  stock,  vegetables,  and  clove  already  mentioned,  and 
heat  the  mixture  to  the  boiling-point.  Mix  the  corn- 
starch  with  five  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  stir  into 
the  mixture  in  the  stew-pan.  Cook  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper.  Simmer  for  five  minutes  longer,  and  strain. 


ENTRIES.  829 


Use  about  a  gill  and  a  half  of  this  sauce  in  basting 
the  sweetbreads,  and  when  the  dish  is  served,  pour  the 
remaining  sauce  around  the  meat. 

If  the  stock  was  seasoned  with  vegetables  and  spice 
before  it  was  used  for  the  sauce,  these  seasonings  may 
be  omitted  in  making  the  sauce. 

Braised  Sweetbreads. 

After  cleaning  the  sweetbreads,  drop  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan containing  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  and 
boil  for  ten  minutes.  Take  them  from  the  water,  lay 
them  in  a  shallow  dish,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Make  a  sauce  as  follows,  the  quantities  being  sufficient 
for  half  a  dozen  sweetbreads  :  — 

Dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of  beef  extract  in  a  cupful  of 
warm  water.  Put  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  butter 
into  a  small  frying-pan  with  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onion,  a  bit  of  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
carrot,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Cook  slowly  for  five  minutes ; 
then  add  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until 
brown.  Draw  the  frying-pan  back  to  a  cooler  part  of 
the  stove,  and  gradually  add  the  dissolved  beef  extract. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  three 
minutes. 

Strain  this  sauce  over  the  sweetbreads,  and  cook  them 
slowly  in  the  oven  for  an  hour,  basting  frequently  with 
the  sauce  in  the  pan.  At  serving-time  place  the  sweet- 
breads on  a  warm  platter,  and  pour  a  clear  brown  sauce 
around  them. 

Spindled  Sweetbreads. 

Clean  two  heart  sweetbreads,  and  cover  them  with 
boiling  water.  Add  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  slice  of  onion,  ten  pepper-corns, 
and  a  piece  of  stick  cinnamon  about  an  inch  long.  Place 
on  the  fire,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  At  the  end  of 


330          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

that  time  take  the  sweetbreads  from  the  hot  water,  and 
drop  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  When  they  become 
cold,  wipe  them  dry,  and  cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  square  and  half  an  inch  thick. 

Cut  fat  bacon  in  slices  as  thin  as  a  wafer,  and  divide 
these  slices  into  squares.  Season  the  sweetbreads  with 
salt  and  pepper ;  then  roll  them  in  melted  butter,  and 

also  roll  lightly  in  flour. 
String  the  bacon  and  sweet- 
breads on  small  skewers, 

Sptadled  Sweetbreads.  alternating  with  squares  of 

each  kind  of  meat.  Rest  the 

ends  of  the  skewers  on  a  narrow  cake-pan,  and  place  in 
a  hot  oven  for  eight  minutes.  Serve  each  skewerful  on 
a  slice  of  toast. 

Another  way  is  to  let  the  butter  and  flour  cool  on  the 
squares  of  sweetbread ;  then  dip  the  meat  in  beaten  egg, 
and  roll  in  fine  crumbs.  String  them  as  before,  and 
after  laying  them  in  the  frying-basket,  cook  in  fat  for 
a  minute  and  a  half.  Serve  on  toast,  as  before. 

Turkey,  chicken,  and  goose  livers  are  very  nice  cooked 
in  this  manner.  They  should  not  be  boiled  first. 


Fried  Chicken  and  Cauliflower. 

Use  two  chickens,  each  weighing  about  three  pounds, 
one  large  head  of  cauliflower,  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a 
pint  of  cream,  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  clear  salt  pork, 
and  some  flour,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Singe,  wipe,  and  draw  the  chickens  ;  then  cut  them  in 
handsome  joints,  season  them  generously  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Cut  the  pork  in  thin 
slices,  and  fry  it  slowly  in  a  large  frying-pan.  On  tak- 
ing up  the  pork,  lay  the  pieces  of  chicken  in  the  pan,  and 
fry  them  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  to  avoid 
burning.  Turn  the  pieces  when  they  begin  to  brown  on 
one  side. 


ENTREES.  331 


The  head  of  cauliflower  should  stand  in  salted  cold 
water  for  an  hour  before  the  time  for  beginning  to  cook 
this  dish.  Just  before  putting  the  chicken  on  to  fry, 
put  the  cauliflower  in  a  kettle  with  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  and  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour.  When  the 
cauliflower  has  been  cooking  for  twenty  minutes,  add  a 
generous  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

As  soon  as  the  chicken  is  put  on  to  fry,  put  the  pint 
of  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  cream 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  the  milk 
begins  to  boil,  stir  this  mixture  into  it.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally ;  then  add  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper. 

When  the  cauliflower  is  done,  take  it  up  and  drain  it ; 
then  place  in  the  centre  of  a  large  dish.  Pour  half  of 
the  white  sauce  over  it.  Now  arrange  the  chicken  at  the 
base  of  the  cauliflower.  Pour  all  the  fat  from  the  pan, 
and  put  the  remaining  white  sauce  into  the  pan.  Put 
on  the  stove,  and  stir  well  from  the  bottom  ;  and  when 
the  sauce  boils  up,  pour  it  over  the  chicken.  Serve  at 
once. 

Cooking  the  chicken  sauce  in  the  pan  where  the 
chicken  was  fried  gives  it  more  flavor,  but  also  colors  it ; 
therefore  it  would  not  do  to  cook  the  sauce  for  the  cauli- 
flower in  that  pan. 

*  Chicken  Stew  with  Dumplings. 

The  ingredients  are:  two  young  fowls,  weighing  about 
eight  pounds,  two  quarts  and  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  six  of  flour,  one  large 
onion,  six  thin  slices  of  carrot,  six  of  turnip,  salt  and 
pepper  for  seasoning. 

After  cleaning  the  fowls  and  cutting  them  into  pieces 
suitable  for  serving,  wash  these  and  put  them  into  a 
large  stew-pan.  Add  the  water,  and  set  the  dish  on  to 


332          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

boil.  Cut  the  vegetables  very  fine,  and  put  them,  with 
the  butter,  into  a  small  frying-pan.  Cook  slowly  for  ten 
minutes,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  burn.  When 
they  have  acquired  a  light  straw-color,  draw  them  to  the 
side  of  the  pan,  and  press  out  all  the  butter  with  a  spoon, 
and  then  put  them  into  the  stew-pan  with  the  chicken. 
Into  the  butter  remaining  in  the  pan  stir  the  dry  flour, 
and  cook  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then 
stir  it  into  the  stew,  and  add  salt  and  pepper.  Let  the 
dish  simmer  gently  for  about  two  hours,  after  which 
draw  it  forward  where  it  will  boil  rapidly,  and  put  in 
some  dumplings.  These  should  be  made  as  follows 
while  the  stew  is  simmering:  — 

Mix  thoroughly  in,  and  rub  through,  a  sieve,  a  pint  of 
flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Make  a 
soft  dough  of  this  mixture  by  stirring  into  it  a  small 
cupful  of  milk,  and  then  stir  the  dough  into  a  smooth 
ball.  Put  it  on  a  board  sprinkled  lightly  with  flour,  and 
after  rolling  down  to  the  thickness  of  about  half  an  inch, 
cut  into  small  round  cakes. 

Stir  the  stew,  and  put  in  the  dumplings.  Cover  tightly, 
and  cook  exactly  ten  minutes  from  the  time  the  cover  is 
placed  over  the  pan.  When  the  allotted  time  has  passed, 
take  up  the  dumplings  immediately.  Arrange  the  chicken 
and  gravy  in  the  centre  of  a  large  platter,  and  garnish 
with  a  circle  of  dumplings.  Sprigs  of  parsley  also  may 
be  used  if  you  have  any  on  hand. 

*  Stewed  Chicken. 

Use  a  fowl  about  a  year  old  and  weighing  about  five 
pounds.  After  singeing  it  and  wiping  it,  cut  it  into 
handsome  joints.  Wash  carefully,  and  dredge  well  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Cut  into  bits  a  piece  of  chicken 
fat  about  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  cook  it  in  a  frying-pan 
until  there  are  about  four  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid  fat ; 


ENTRIES.  333 


then  remove  any  remaining  solid  particles  from  the 
frying-pan,  and  put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken.  Cook  until 
they  are  brown  on  both  sides,  and  then  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan. 

When  all  the  meat  has  been  browned,  cut  an  onion 
fine,  and  cook  it  slowly  for  five  minutes  in  the  fat  re- 
maining in  the  frying-pan.  Add  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  brown;  then  add  three  pints  of 
water,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Next  add  half  a  cupful 
of  stewed  tomato,  and  enough  salt  and  pepper  to  season 
highly.  Strain  this  liquor  over  the  chicken. 

Put  the  heart,  liver,  and  gizzard  into  the  stew-pan,  and 
after  putting  on  the  cover,  set  the  stew-pan  in  a  hot 
place  on  the  stove.  When  the  stew  begins  to  boil,  skim 
it,  and  set  the  stew-pan  back  where  its  contents  will 
simply  simmer  for  two  hours.  The  dish  should  never 
be  allowed  to  boil  hard. 

*  Chicken  Stew  with  Norfolk  Dumplings. 

For  six  persons  use  a  pair  of  fowls  weighing  seven  or 
eight  pounds.  Singe  and  draw  them;  then  cut  them 
into  handsome  joints.  Dredge  generously  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  then  roll  in  flour.  Spread  in  a  dripping-pan, 
and  then  put  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Put  three  pints  of  boiling  water  into  a  large  stew-pan. 
Mix  five  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  with  one  cupful  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  water.  Now  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
Let  the  liquid  simmer  until  the  chicken  is  taken  from 
the  oven ;  and  when  the  chicken  is  taken  out,  turn  it  into 
the  stew-pan  containing  this  gravy.  Cover,  and  simmer 
gently  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  taste  the  dish,  to  see  if  it  needs  any  more  salt  and 
pepper.  Add,  at  any  rate,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley.  Stir  the  stew  well,  and  after  adding  the  dump- 
lings, cook  for  eight  minutes.  Serve  the  chicken, 
dumplings,  and  gravy  together  on  a  large  meat-dish. 


884          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Norfolk  Dumplings.  —  Use  one  pint  of  flour,  one  gill 
of  milk,  two  eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  of  baking-powder. 

Mix  the  salt  and  baking-powder  with  the  flour,  and 
rub  all  through  a  sieve.  Beat  the  eggs — yolks  and 
whites  separately  —  until  very  light,  and  add  the  milk 
to  them.  Pour  the  mixture  upon  the  flour.  •  Add  the 
butter,  and  beat  well.  Drop  the  batter  into  the  chicken 
stew  by  table-spoonfuls.  Cover  the  pot  closely,  and 
cook  for  eight  minutes. 

These  dumplings  will  not  be  light  and  spongy,  like 
those  made  with  soda  and  cream-of-tartar,  but  will  be 
tender  and  savory. 

Chicken  Pie. 

For  a  dish  holding  three  quarts  use  two  chickens 
weighing  about  eight  pounds,  half  the  quantity  of  paste 
given  in  the  rule  for  chopped  puff  paste,  three  pints  of 
chicken  stock,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  of 
flour,  two  slices  of  carrot,  half  a  large  onion,  a  bay  leaf, 
a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bit  of  mace,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
suit  the  taste,  —  perhaps  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

After  cleaning  and  halving  the  chickens,  put  them 
into  a  kettle,  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  place 
them  where  they  will  simmer  until  tender.  If  they  be 
a  year  old  they  will  need  to  be  cooked  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Let  them  cool  in  the  water;  then  free  them  o:p 
skin,  and  cut  into  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Put 
these  pieces  into  the  pie-dish,  sprinkling  each  layer 
with  salt  and  pepper,  —  about  half  the  pepper  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt  being  used. 

Now  put  the  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  beat  it  until 
soft.  Add  the  flour,  and  beat  until  the  mixture  is  light 
and  creamy.  Next  add  the  vegetables,  spice,  and  herbs, 
besides  three  pints  of  the  water  in  which  the  chickens 
were  boiled.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  set 


ENTRIES.  335 


back  where  the  mixture  will  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Add  the  remaining  pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
then  strain  the  sauce  over  the  meat.  Eoll  out  the  paste, 
having  it  a  little  larger  than  the  top  of  the  dish.  Cut  it 
with  a  knife  in  the  centre,  that  steam  may  escape,  and 
place  it  over  the  chicken,  turning  the  edge  into  the  dish. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  and 
serve  hot. 

It  gives  the  pie  a  rather  more  festive  appearance  if 
the  paste  trimmings  be  rolled  thin,  cut  in  ornamental 
shapes,  and  disposed  on  the  cover  of  the  pie  before 
baking. 

Chicken  Pie  to  be  Served  Cold.      . 

Use  two  chickens  weighing  together  eight  or  nine 
pounds,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  two  bay  leaves,  two  cloves,  one  slice  of  onion, 
two  blades  of  celery,  two  quarts  of  water,  one-fourth  of 
a  package  of  gelatine,  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  half  a  cupful 
of  butter,  and  half  a  cupful  of  flour ;  and  for  the  paste, 
follow  the  rule  for  chopped  puff  paste. 

Draw,  singe,  and  wash  the  chickens ;  then  cut  them 
into  small  joints,  taking  out  the  backbones  and  putting 
them  aside.  Eemove  the  bones  from  the  breasts ;  also 
the  drumsticks.  Put  these  with  the  backbones. 

Season  the  pieces  of  chicken  with  :aif  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  deep  plate.  Eoll  the 
chicken  in  this,  and  then  in  the  flour.  As  fast  as  the 
chicken  is  coated  with  the  butter  and  flour,  lay  it  in  a 
dripping-pan.  Put  the  pan  into  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  for 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  take  the  meat  from  the  pa/n,  and 
lay  it  in  a  dish  to  cool. 

Now  put  the  pan  on  top  of  the  stove,  and  if  there  be 
any  of  the  flour  and  butter  left  in  the  plates,  scrape  it 
into  the  pan.  Add  one  cupful  of  cold  water;  and 
after  stirring  the  mixture,  cook  it  for  five  minutes,  stir- 
ring all  the  while,  Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 


336          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Turn  into 
a  bowl,  and  cool. 

Cut  the  liver  into  small  pieces.  Slice  the  hard-boiled 
eggs,  and  mix  with  the  liver. 

Butter  the  sides  of  an  earthenware  pie-dish  that  will 
hold  about  three  quarts.  Roll  a  piece  of  paste  into  a 
strip  long  and  broad  enough  to  line  the  sides  of  the  dish. 
Put  this  in  position,  and  then  put  a  layer  of  chicken  in 
the  bottom  of  the  dish.  On  this  put  a  layer  of  the 
sliced  eggs.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Continue 
putting  in  alternate  layers  of  chicken  and  egg  until  all 
the  materials  have  been  used.  Over  this  filling  pour 
the  gravy  that  was  made  in  the  dripping-pan.  Eoll  out 
a  cove,r  of  the  chopped  puff  paste.  Make  a  small  hole  in 
the  centre  of  the  cover,  and  then  place  the  paste  over 
the  dish.  Press  together  the  edges  of  the  top  and  side 
crusts.  Place  the  pie  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for 
one  hour  and  a  half.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  on  taking 
it  from  the  oven,  place  a  tunnel  in  the  opening  of  the 
crust,  and  pour  in  some  stock,  made  with  the  chicken 
oones  and  other  ingredients.  Eeturn  the  pie  to  the 
oven,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour  longer.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  take  it  from  the  oven  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 

The  seasoning  may  be  varied  to  suit  one's  taste.  In- 
stead of  the  hard-boiled  eggs,  two  pounds  of  sausage 
meat  may  "be  used.  In  this  case  the  pie  will  require  an 
extra  hour's  baking. 

Cold  chicken  pie  is  suitable  for  luncheons,  picnics,  or 
suppers. 

To  Make  the  Stock.  —  Put  the  neck  and  bones  of  the 
chicken  into  a  stew-pan  with  three  pints  of  water.  Add 
the  onion,  spice,  and  herbs.  Pour  boiling  water  on  the 
chicken  feet.  Let  them  stand  for  a  few  minutes ;  then 
take  them  out,  and  rub  off  the  skin.  Wash  them,  and 
put  them  into  the  stew-pan  with  the  other  ingredients. 
Place  the  stew-pan  on  the  fire,  and  cook  its  contents  for 
an  hour  and  a  half,  boiling  rather  fast.  Skim  off  the 


ENTRIES.  337 


fat.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper  and  the  gelatine,  which 
should  previously  have  been  soaked  in  half  a  pint  of 
cold  water  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Strain  this  stock 
before  pouring  it  into  the  pie. 

*  Chicken-and-Rice  Pie. 

There  will  be  required  for  this  dish  one  fowl  weighing 
about  five  pounds,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  rice,  half  a 
cupful  of  butter,  two  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one  slice 
of  onion,  one  of  carrot,  two  cloves,  and  some  salt  and 
pepper. 

Clean  the  fowl,  and  cut  it  into  joints ;  then  put  it  into 
a  stew-pan  with  three  pints  of  boiling  water  and  the 
vegetables  and  spice.  Simmer  until  tender.  Unless  the 
fowl  be  old,  the  meat  should  become  tender  in  an  hour 
and  a  half ;  but  it  may  require  three  hours'  cooking. 

When  the  chicken  is  cooked,  add  half  a  teaspoonf ul 
of  pepper  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  set  aside 
until  the  time  for  putting  with  the  rice.  Wash  the  rice, 
and  put  it  on  to  cook  in  three  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
When  it  has  been  cooking  for  ten  minutes,  add  two  level 
table-spoonfuls  of  salt.  Cook  ten  minutes  longer,  and 
then  turn  into  a  colander  and  drain  well.  After  drain- 
ing, add  to  it  the  butter,  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  the  eggs,  well  beaten. 

Put  into  an  earthen  baking-dish  a  layer  of  the  chicken, 
and  then  a  thin  layer  of  the  rice  mixture ;  another  layer 
of  chicken,  and  finally  the  remainder  of  the  rice.  Pour 
over  the  rice  one  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  chicken 
was  cooked.  Place  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  bake 
for  half  an  hour.  Serve  the  pie  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  cooked. 

*  Walled  Chicken. 

This  dish  is  made  of  one  large  fowl  or  two  rather 
small  ones,  eight  potatoes  of  medium  size,  two  eggs,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  hot  milk,  three 


338          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

cupf uls  of  chicken  stock,  —  the  water  in  which  the  fowl 
was  boiled,  —  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one 
sprig  of  parsley,  one  slice  of  carrot,  a  bay  leaf,  two  gen- 
erous table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 
the  taste. 

It  is  best  to  boil  the  fowl  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
used.  After  cleaning  it,  put  it  in  a  stew-pan,  breast 
side  down,  and  cover  with  boiling  water.  When  the 
water  begins  to  boil,  skim  it,  and  set  the  kettle  back 
where  the  chicken  will  simply  simmer  until  tender,  — 
from  two  hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours ;  then  put  the 
fowl  away  to  cool  in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled. 
When  it  gets  cold,  free  it  of  skin  and  bones,  and  cut  it 
into  pieces  of  a  size  suitable  for  serving.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and,  fifty  minutes  before  serving- 
time,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  enough  boiling 
water  to  cover  them.  When  they  have  been  cooking  for 
fifteen  minutes,  the  chicken  should  be  prepared  in  the 
following  manner :  Put  the  three  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter into  a  frying-pan  with  the  vegetables  and  herbs,  and 
cook  slowly  for  five  minutes;  then  add  the  flour,  and 
stir  until  smooth  and  frothy,  but  not  long  enough  to 
permit  it  to  get  browned.  Gradually  add  the  cold 
chicken  stock,  stirring  all  the  while.  When  the  liquid 
boils  up,  add  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Put 
the  seasoned  chicken  into  a  stew-pan,  and  strain  this 
sauce  over  it.  Cover,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
set  back  where  it  will  keep  hot  until  serving-time. 

When  the  potatoes  have  been  cooked  for  half  an  hour, 
pour  off  all  the  water.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a 
small  basin.  Mash  the  potatoes  until  smooth  and  light ; 
then  add  the  milk,  one  table-spoonful  of  the  butter,  and 
a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  froth,  and  stir  this  into  the  mixture.  Heat  a 
stone-china  platter  to  a  high  temperature,  and  arrange 


ENTRIES.  339 


the  mashed  potato  as  a  border  around  the  centre  of  the 
dish.  Beat  together  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  spread  the  mixture  over  the 
potato.  Put  into  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  at  the 
end  of  that  time  pour  the  chicken  into  the  centre  of 
the  border,  and  garnish  with  bits  of  parsley. 

Any  kind  of  cold  meat,  poultry,  game,  or  fish  may  be 
served  in  this  manner. 

*  Blanquette  of  Chicken  and  Macaroni. 

For  this  dish  use  cold  boiled  fowl  left  from  a  dinner. 
Free  the  meat  of  skin,  bone,  and  fat,  and  after  cutting  it 
into  small  strips,  season  it  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
put  aside  for  a  while.  There  should  be  about  a  quart  of 
meat.  Break  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  into 
pieces  about  three  inches  long,  and  cover  with  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  rapidly,  but  with  the  saucepan 
uncovered,  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  pour  off  the  water, 
and  add  the  chicken  and  one  quart  of  the  water  in  which 
the  fowl  was  boiled. 

Mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  with  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  milk,  and  when  the  mixture  in  the  saucepan  begins 
to  boil,  stir  the  new  mixture  into  it.  Season  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  and  some  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  for  five  min- 
utes ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  cook 
three  minutes  longer.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  Serve  very  hot. 

*  Brown  Fricassee  of  Chicken. 

After  singeing,  drawing,  and  washing  two  large  chick- 
ens, cut  them  into  handsome  joints.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  roll  the  pieces  in  flour.  Cut  half  a 
pound  of  fat  salt  pork  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly, 
so  as  to  extract  all  the  fat.  Remove  the  pork,  and  lay  in 
the  boiling  fat  enough  chicken  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 


340          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

pan.     Brown  on  one  side,  and  turn  and  brown  on  the 
other. 

When  all  the  meat  has  been  fried,  put  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  into  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan,  and 
stir  until  brown ;  then  gradually  add  a  quart  of  cold 
water.  When  the  water  boils,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Add  the  fried  chicken,  and  after  covering 
closely,  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

*  White  Fricassee  of  Chicken. 

Free  a  cooked  fowl  of  skin,  bones,  and  fat,  and  cut  it 
into  small  pieces.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  has  become  hot,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  gradually  add  a  pint 
of  the  water  in  which  the  fowl  was  boiled,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  When  this  gravy  boils  up,  add 
the  cut  meat,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes;  then  add 
half  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  allow  the  fricassee 
to  boil  up  once.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  garnish  of 
toast. 

Terrapin  Chicken. 

For  this  dish  use  one  quart  of  cold  cooked  chicken, 
cut  in  very  small  pieces,  the  cooked  liver  of  one  or  two 
chickens,  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  of  two  un- 
cooked eggs,  one  cupful  of  chicken  stock,  one  cupful  of 
cream,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  one-third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
two  of  flour,  and  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  lemon  juice. 

Chop  the  chicken  liver  and  hard-boiled  eggs  rather 
coarse.  Add  the  chopped  mixture  to  the  chicken,  and 
sprinkle  the  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg  over  all  these  in- 
gredients. Now  put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  set 
the  pan  ou  the  stove.  Add  the  flour  to  the  melted 
butter,  and  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  becomes  smooth  and 


ENTRIES.  341 


frothy ;  then  draw  the  pan  back  to  some  place  where 
there  is  less  heat,  and  gradually  add  the  stock.  Put  it 
again  on  the  hot  part  of  the  stove,  and  stir  the  contents 
for  three  minutes ;  then  add  the  cream,  after  reserving 
four  table-spoonfuls.  Stir  for  one  minute,  and  then  put 
the  chicken  mixture  into  the  pan,  and  simmer  for  ten 
minutes. 

During  this  period  beat  well  the  yolks  of  the  uncooked 
eggs,  and  put  the  cold  cream  with  them.  Taste  the 
chicken  mixture,  as  it  may  require  a  little  more  salt. 
Pour  the  beaten  yolks  and  the  cream  into  the  frying-pan, 
and  stir  for  one  minute.  On  removing  the  pan  from  the 
fire  at  the  end  of  that  time,  add  the  sherry  and  lemon 
juice,  and  serve  at  once. 

Chicken  a  la  Duxelles. 

There  will  be  needed  for  eight  persons,  two  chickens, 
each  weighing  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  pounds,  one 
pint  and  a  half  of  chicken  stock,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  three  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one 
table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  pint  of  bread  crumbs. 

Cut  the  chicken  into  handsome  pieces,  as  for  frying. 
Sprinkle  half  the  salt  and  half  the  pepper  over  the  meat ; 
then  put  it  away  in  a  cool  place  until  the  sauce  is  ready. 

Beat  the  flour  and  butter  together  in  a  stew-pan  until  ** 
smooth  and  light.  Hoat  the  stock,  and  gradually  add  it 
to  the  mixture.  Set 'the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  add  to  the 
sauce  all  the  other  ingredients  except  the  lemon  juice 
and  crumbs.  Cook  ge^ly  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  lemon  juice  to  the 
sauce.  Cover  the  pieces  of  chicken  with  this  sauce,  and 
let  them  stand  until  the  sauce  is  cool ;  then  roll  them  in 
the  crumbs.  Butter  lightly  the  bottom  of  a  flat  pan,  arid 


342          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

lay  the  meat  in  the  pan,  being  careful  that  the  pieces  do 
not  touch  each  other.  Place  in  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  for 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  with  Bechamel  or  mushroom 
white  sauce. 

The  chicken  may  be  cut  up  and  covered  with  the 
sauce  and  bread  crumbs  several  hours  before  it  is  cooked. 
This  dish  is  particularly  good  for  a  part  of  a  dinner  or 
luncheon  for  company. 

Jellied  Chicken. 

If  a  three-pint  mould  is  to  be  filled  one  must  use  a 
chicken  or  fowl  weighing  about  two  and  a  half  or  three 
pounds  after  being  drawn,  one-third  of  a  box  of  gelatine, 
a  slice  of  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  bay  leaf,  a  clove, 
some  hot  and  cold  water,  and  salt  and  pepper  in  quanti- 
ties to  be  determined  by  one's  own  taste. 

Wash  the  fowl,  and  put  it  into  a  deep  stew-pan  with 
boiling  water  enough  to  cover  it.  Heat  the  water  until 
it  boils  again ;  then  ski  in  carefully,  and  set  the  pan 
where  the  water  will  only  bubble  until  the  meat  becomes 
tender.  It  is  impossible  to  state  just  the  length  of  time 
required  for  the  cooking,  because  so  much  depends  upon 
the  age  of  the  fowl ;  it  may  be  an  hour  and  a  half  or  it 
may  be  three  hours.  When  the  fowl  gets  tender,  remove 
it  from  the  water,  and  put  it  away  to  cool ;  also  set  the 
water  away.  It  may  take  several  hours  for  both  to 
become  cold. 

Meanwhile  soak  the  gelatine  in  a  gill  of  cold  water  for 
two  hours.  When  the  chicken  liquor  has  become  cool 
and  has  been  skimmed,  put  a  pint  and  a  half  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  clove,  bay  leaf,  carrot,  and  onion,  and 
simmer  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  a  grain  of  cayenne,  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  soaked  gelatine.  After 
straining  this  liquor  through  a  napkin,  pour  a  thin  layer 
into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

Free  the  cold  fowl  of  skin,  fat,  and  bones,  and  cut  it 
into  thin  strips.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 


ENTREES.  343 


lay  it  lightly  in  the  mould  when  the  jelly  becomes  hard. 
Pour  the  liquid  jelly  over  the  meat,  and  again  set  the 
mould  away.  At  serving-time  dip  it  into  warm  water, 
and  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish. 

Jellied  chicken  may  be  made  of  the  remains  of  cold 
roast  chicken  or  turkey,  or  boiled  fowl  or  turkey.  When 
there  is  no  stock  on  hand,  the  bones  of  the  cold  chicken 
should  be  covered  with  water,  and  simmered  for  several 
hours  to  obtain  a  supply. 

*  Chicken  a  la  Marengo. 

Singe  and  cut  up  two  chickens.  Put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sliced  fat  salt  pork  into  a  frying-pan,  and  fry 
until  crisp  and  brown  ;  then  remove  it,  and  put  in  the 
pieces  of  chicken,  first  rolling  them  in  flour.  Fry  brown 
on  all  sides ;  then  transfer  to  a  deep  stew-pan. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion  into  the 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become  browned,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  four  heaping  table-spoon- 
fuls of  -flour.  When  the  sauce  gets  brown,  add  a  quart 
of  chicken  stock  or  any  other  good  stock,  and  simmer  for 
five  minutes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  and  after 
adding  a  cupful  of  strained  tomato,  and  satisfying  your- 
self that  there  is  seasoning  enough,  strain  the  sauce 
upon  the  chicken.  Cover,  and  simmer  for  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  add  a  can  of  mushrooms,  and  cook  ten  min- 
utes longer. 

This  dish  must  be  highly  seasoned,  and  at  least  an 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  should  be  used. 

Here  is  another  receipt :  Use  two  chickens,  each  weigh- 
ing between  three  and  four  pounds,  one  can  of  mush- 
rooms, half  a  cupful  of  clarified  butter,  six  eggs,  one 
dozen  stoned  olives,  eight  small  triangles  of  toast,  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  clear  beef  stock,  one  gill  of  stewed 
and  strained  tomato,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three 


344          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one 
bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  two  table-spoonfuls  each 
of  minced  onion,  carrot,  and  celery,  and  two  cloves. 

Put  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  minced 
vegetables  into  a  small  stew-pan.  Place  on  the  fire,  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes;  then  draw  forward,  and 
stir  until  the  vegetables  are  slightly  browned.  Add  half 
the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  is  brown.  Draw  back  to  a 
cooler  place,  and  gradually  add  half  the  stock.  Stir 
until  it  boils  up ;  then  add  the  herbs  and  cloves.  Set 
the  pan  back  where  its  contents  will  cook  slowly  for  forty 
minutes. 

Have  the  chickens  drawn,  singed,  wiped,  and  then  cut 
in  joints,  as  for  a  stew.  Season  with  half  the  pepper 
and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  the  salt. 

Put  the  remainder  of  the  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  large 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  put  in  the  chicken. 
Fry  slowly  for  twenty -five  minutes  ;  then  take  up.  Now 
pour  about  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  fat  remaining  in 
the  pan  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  set  aside.  Put  the 
remaining  half  of  the  flour  in  the  pan  from  which  the 
chicken  was  taken,  and  stir  until  a  smooth  and  frothy 
mixture  is  formed.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  add  the 
rest  of  the  stock.  Cook  for  three  minutes,  and  then  add 
to  the  sauce  in  the  stew-pan. 

Put  the  chicken,  olives,  mushrooms,  and  strained  to- 
mato into  a  large  stew-pan.  Strain  the  sauce  upon 
them,  and  place  on  the  fire.  Simmer  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

While  the  chicken  is  cooking  in  the  sauce,  fry  the 
eggs  in  the  butter  that  was  poured  into  the  small  frying- 
pan.  They  are  not  to  be  fried  in  the  ordinary  shape. 
Break  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  into  a  small  cup.  Let  the 
butter  get  hot  in  the  pan.  Now,  with  the  left  hand,  tip 
the  pan  forward  so  that  all  the  butter  shall  flow  to  one 
spot.  Drop  the  egg  into  it ;  and  as  soon  as  it  hardens 
a  little  on  one  side,  turn  it,  and  cook  on  the  other  side. 


ENTRIES.  345 


This  should  give  an  oblong  shape.  Take  up  the  egg  as 
soon  as  it  is  slightly  browned.  Cook  all  in  the  same 
manner. 

Take  up  the  chicken,  and  arrange  it  in  a  pyramid  on 
a  large  dish.  Garnish  with  the  olives  and  mushrooms. 
Arrange  the  toast  and  fried  eggs  at  the  base.  Pour  the 
sauce  over  all,  and  serve.  The  olives  and  eggs  may  be 
omitted  if  one  does  not  care  for  them. 

Chicken  Cutlets. 

For  a  dozen  and  a  half  cutlets  use  a  generous  pint  of 
cooked  chicken,  chopped  rather  coarse,  a  cupful  of  cream, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  of  salt, 
four  level  table-spoonfuls  of  fine-chopped  mushrooms, 
four  eggs,  one  pint  of  sifted  crumbs,  half  a  teaspoonftu 
of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley. 

Mix  the  chicken  with  the  satt,  pepper,  parsley,  onion 
juice,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  mushrooms.  Put  the 
cream  on  the  stove  in  a  large  frying-pan.  Beat  the  flour 
and  butter  together  until  smooth  and  light,  and  when  the 
cream  begins  to  boil,  stir  this  mixture  into  it.  Stir  con- 
stantly until  the  sauce  boils  again ;  then  add  the  seasoned 
chicken,  and  cook  for  three  minutes.  Beat  two  of  the 
eggs  until  light,  and  stir  them  into  the  boiling  ingre- 
dients. Take  the  frying-pan  from  the  fire  immediately, 
and  after  pouring  the  contents  into  a  flat  dish,  put  them 
away  to  cool.  It  is  well  to  set  the  dish  in  the  open  air 
in  frosty  weather,  or  to  place  it,  when  cool,  on  ice  in  the 
refrigerator  for  an  hour  or  more;  for  the  colder  the 
mixture  becomes,  the  more  easily  may  the  cutlets  be 
formed. 

Butter  a  cutlet  mould  thoroughly,  and  sprinkle  some 
crumbs  into  it.  Pack  with  chicken,  and  then  give  the 
mould  a  tap  on  the  table,  to  make  the  cutlet  drop  out. 


846          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Again  sprinkle  the  mould  with  crumbs,  and  pack  as  be- 
fore. The  mould  is  buttered  only  once,  but  is  sprinkled 
with  crumbs  each  time  a  new  cutlet  is  formed. 

When  all  the  chicken  has  been  used,  beat  the  two  re- 
maining eggs  in  a  deep  plate,  and  put  some  of  the  crumbs 

in  another  plate. 
Drop  the  cutlets  in 
the  eggs  first,  and  in 
the  crumbs  after- 
ward. At  serving- 
Cutlet  and  Cutlet-mould.  ,.  ,, 

time  put  them  into 

a  frying-basket,  being  careful  not  to  crowd  them,  and 
cook  in  boiling  fat  for  two  minutes.  Drain  well,  and 
serve  with  white  mushroom  or  Bechamel  sauce. 

If  you  do  not  possess  a  cutlet  mould,  —  it  costs  only 
twenty-five  cents,  —  use  a  knife  to  shape  the  chicken 
mixture  like  cutlets. 

Turkey  Cutlets  with  Chestnut  Pur6e. 

• 

Make  turkey  cutlets  the  same  as  chicken  cutlets. 
Heap  a  chestnut  puree  in  the  centre  of  a  warm  dish, 
and  arrange  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  around  it.  Garnish 
with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley.  Serve  hot  with  Bechamel 
sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

For  twelve  people  use  the  full  rules  for  the  sauce 
and  puree  and  twice  the  rule  for  the  cutlets. 

Legs  of  Chicken  a  la  Jardiniere. 

For  this  dish  there  will  be  required  the  legs  of  four 
chickens, — those  from  which  fillets  were  taken  for  su- 
preme of  chicken,  —  eight  dessert-spoonfuls  of  either 
chicken  or  liver  force-meat,  three  pints  of  white  stock, 
two  table-spoonfuls  each  of  chopped  onion,  carrot,  turnip, 
and  celery,  a  bit  of  mace,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  sprig  of  parsley, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  eight  paper 


ENTRIES.  347 


ruffles,  and  three  pints  of  turnip,  carrot,  and  peas  pre- 
pared a  la  jardiniere.  Directions  for  making  the  ruffles 
are  given  in  the  chapter  on  "  Garnishes. " 

Bone  the  legs,  being  careful  not  to  cut  through  the 
flesh.  Now  spread  a  dessert-spoonful  of  force-meat  be- 
tween the  flesh  where  the  bones  were  taken  out,  and  in 
that  part  of  the  leg  from  which  the  drumstick  was  removed 
insert  a  small  wing-bone.  Sew  the  flesh  together.  When 
all  are  done,  lay  them  flat  in  a  stew-pan,  and  pour  over 
them  the  stock,  which  should  be  boiling.  Add  the  vege- 
tables and  seasoning.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  after 
covering  it,  let  its  contents  simmer  for  one  hour.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  take  them  from  the  stew-pan,  and  ar- 
range them  in  a  large  flat  pan,  having  them  lie  perfectly 
flat,  and  being  careful  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other. 
Place  another  pan  on  top  of  them,  and  put  some  heavy 
weights  in  the  upper  pan  (two  bricks  will  answer).  Set 
away  in  a  cool  place  for  two  or  three  hours. 

Strain  the  stock  in  which  the  legs  were  boiled,  and 
skim  off  all  the  fat.  Measure  a  generous  pint  of  this 
liquid,  and  put  it  aside  for  the  sauce.  Now  put  the 
butter  on  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan.  When  it  gets  hot, 
add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  latter  becomes  browned 
slightly.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  the 
strained  stock.  Stir  until  the  mixture  boils,  and  then 
simmer  for  four  minutes,  stirring  several  times.  Taste, 
to  see  if  it  requires  more  salt  and  pepper.  Strain  into  a 
stew-pan,  and  put  away  until  the  chicken  legs  are  cold. 

Remove  the  weights  from  the  legs  after  two  or  three 
hours  have  passed.  Draw  out  the  threads  and  trim  the 
legs.  Add  a  gill  of  stock  to  the  sauce  in  the  stew- 
pan.  Put  in  the  chicken  legs,  and  simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

Heap  the  vegetables  a  la  jardiniere  in  the  centre  of  a 
warm  platter,  and  arrange  the  chicken  legs  around  them. 
Slip  the  paper  ruffles  over  the  ends  of  the  drumsticks. 
Pour  the  sauce  around  the  legs,  and  serve  at  once. 


348          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Chicken  Legs  a  la  Villeroi. 

Prepare  the  chicken  legs  as  for  a  dish  a  la  jardiniere, 
but  do  not  make  the  sauce  until  after  the  chicken  has 
been  pressed.  Now  make  the  sauce  as  before,  but  omit 
the  extra  gill  of  stock.  Add  to  the  sauce  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream.  Take  from  the  fire 
immediately,  and  put  in  the  chicken  legs.  Coat  every 
part  with  sauce,  and  let  the  chicken  cool. 

Now  beat  two  eggs  in  a  soup-plate ;  also  have  at  hand 
a  large  plate  of  fine  bread  crumbs. 

Take  the  legs,  one  by  one,  in  the  left  hand,  holding 
them  by  the  drumstick,  and,  with  a  knife,  spread  the 
sauce  evenly  over  them.  Sprinkle  with  crumbs,  and 
then  cover  them  with  beaten  egg,  pouring  the  egg  over 
them  with  a  table-spoon.  Now  roll  in  crumbs,  cover- 
ing every  part.  Have  the  board  sprinkled  with  crumbs, 
and  let  the  breaded  chicken  rest  on  this 
until  it  is  finished.  Put  a  few  pieces  at  a 
time  in  the  frying-basket,  and  cook  in  hot 
fat  for  two  minutes.  Arrange  on  a  warm 
napkin  in  the  centre  of  the  dish.  Garnish 
with  a  circle  of  sliced  tomatoes.  Put  a  gen- 
erous teaspoonful  of  Mayonnaise  or  Tartar 
sauce  in  the  centre  of  each  slice  of  tomato. 

Stuffed  Chicken      gend  to   the   table  a  gmall  dish  of   the  game 
Leg  with  Paper  . 

Ruffle.          kind  of  sauce  as  that  used  on  the  tomatoes. 

How  to  Fillet  Poultry  and  Game. 

Cut  the  skin  of  the  breast  of  a  chicken  or  bird,  and 
draw  it  back  so  as  to  leave  the  breast  bare.  Remove 
the  crop.  With  a  small,  sharp  knife,  cut  down  through 
the  centre  of  the  breast,  following  the  dotted  line  shown 
in  the  illustration,  round  the  wish-bone  and  wing-bone, 
and  also  round  on  the  side.  Slip  the  fingers  between 
the  flesh  and  the  breastbone,  and  press  the  flesh  away 


ENTRIES. 


349 


from  the  bone.     One-half  of  the  breast  will  be  detached, 
giving  a  smooth  fillet-shaped  piece  of  meat.     There  are 


Chicken. —  Should  be  Cut  on  Dotted  Lines. 

two  fillets  in  this  piece,  —  the  large  and  the  minion. 
The  minion  fillet  is  on  the  under  side,  and  may  easily  be 
separated  from  the  larger  one.  Slip  the  point  of  the 
knife  under  the  thin  skin  that  covers  the  fillets,  and 
draw  it  off  as  if  you  were  skinning  a  fish.  In  the 


Chicken  with  Two  Fillets  Removed. 

minion  fillet  there  will  be  found  a  sinew,  which  should 

be   removed.     Wet  the  wooden   vegetable-masher,   and 

pound    the    fillets ;    also    curve    them 

a  little.     The   minion   fillets   may   be 

pounded   gently   until   of  the   size   of 

large  fillets.     Two  of  them  may  then 

be  put  together  and  lightly  pounded 

again,   to  keep  them    in    place.      In   this  way   every 


A  Fillet. 


350          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

chicken  or  bird  may  be  made  to  yield  three  large  fillets. 
When  the  fillets  are  properly  trimmed  and  curved,  they 
will  have  the  shape  shown  by  the  last  cut  on  page  349. 

Supreme  of  Chicken  Farce. 

For  eight  or  nine  people  use  the  fillets  of  three  good- 
sized  chickens,  one  can  of  mushrooms,  one  large  chicken 
liver,  the  meat  from  the  second  joints  of  the  legs  of 
one  chicken,  one  table-spoonful  of  stale  bread,  one 
gill  of  cream,  one  table-spoonful  of  sherry,  the  white 
of  one  egg,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  pint 
of  consomme,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg. 

After  filleting  the  chickens,  separate  the  minion,  or 
under,  fillets  from  the  large  ones.  Wet  a  board  with 
cold  water,  and  lay  the  fillets  on  it.  Dip  the  wooden 
vegetable-masher  into  cold  water.  Now  pat  the  small 
fillets  gently  until  they  are  spread  into  about  the  same 
shape  and  size  as  the  large  fillets.  Split  the  large  fillets. 
Cover,  and  put  away  in  a  cold  place  until  the  force-meat 
is  ready. 

Boil  the  chicken  livers  for  twenty  minutes.  Free  the 
two  second  joints  of  the  chicken  legs  from  skin  and 
bone.  Chop  and  pound  the  meat  to  a  paste ;  add  the 
cooked  livers,  and  pound  a  little  longer.  Eub  this  mix- 
ture through  a  puree  sieve.  Now  put  the  bread  and 
cream  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten 
minutes.  Add  the  butter  to  this,  and  take  from  the  fire. 
Mix  well,  and  then  add  the  chicken  meat  and  liver,  also 
the  well-beaten  white  of  the  egg,  the  nutmeg,  one  gen- 
erous teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  grain  of  white  pepper. 
Mix  all  until  perfectly  smooth. 

Spread  a  thin  layer  of  the  force-meat  between  each 
large  fillet  and  on  three  of  the  small  fillets.  Place  the 
other  three  small  fillets  over  those  that  are  covered  with 
force-meat,  and  press  them  together.  They  will  now  be 


ENTRIES.  351 


about  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the  large  fillets.  Lay 
the  fillets  in  a  large  frying-pan,  having  them  slightly 
curved  and  the  smooth  side  up.  Cover  them  with  but- 
tered paper.  Add  the  consomme,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  and  heat 
to  the  boiling-point.  Set  back  where  they  will  simmer 
for  an  hour.  Drain,  and  then  simmer  the  can  of  mush- 
rooms in  one  pint  of  supreme  sauce  for  ten  minutes. 
Heap  the  mushrooms  in  the  centre  of  a  flat  dish,  and 
arrange  the  fillets  around  them.  Pour  the  sauce  over 
them,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Supreme  of  Chicken  a  la  Parisienne. 

Use  the  fillets  of  four  chickens,  one  small  can  of 
truffles,  one  can  of  mushrooms,  eight  thin  slices  of  red 
tongue,  the  white  of  one  egg,  one  pint  of  consomme,  half 
a  cupful  of  clarified  butter,  one  gill  of  glaze,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  pint  of  supreme  sauce,  one  pint  and 
a  half  of  chicken-liver  force-meat. 

Fillet  the  chickens,  and  separate  the  minion  fillets  from 
the  large  ones.  Curve  them  all  the  same  way.  Pour 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  clarified  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan,  and  let  it  cool  in  the  pan.  Now  arrange  the  large 
fillets  in  the  buttered  pan,  having  the  smooth  side  up 
and  curving  them  all  the  same  way.  Sprinkle  with  salt. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  smaller  pan  with  clarified  butter, 
and  when  the  butter  has  cooled,  arrange  the  small  fillets 
in  this  pan,  and  sprinkle  with  salt.  Cut  two  or  three 
truffles  in  thin  slices,  and  with  small  fancy-cutters  stamp 
out  stars  and  various  shapes.  Beat  the  white  of  the  egg 
until  well  broken  but  not  light.  Brush  a  little  of  it  on 
each  of  the  large  fillets.  Now  decorate  with  the  fancy 
shapes  of  truffles.  When  all  are  done,  brush  lightly  with 
the  white  of  the  egg.  Let  this  dry,  and  then  cover  with 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  Set  away  in  a  cool  place  until 
time  for  cooking.  Treat  the  small  fillets  in  the  same  way, 


352          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

using,  however,  red  tongue  instead  of  truffles.  Now 
make  the  liver  force-meat  (see  chapter  on  "  Garnishes  "), 
and  put  it  into  a  small,  plain  border-mould  which  has  been 
well  buttered.  Put  this  away  until  time  for  cooking. 
Cut  seven  slices  of  tongue  into  the  shape  of  fillets.  Put 
these  away  also.  Make  the  supreme  sauce.  Open  the 
mushrooms.  Chop  the  remainder  of  the  truffles  rather 
fine.  Half  an  hour  before  serving-time  put  the  mould  of 
force-meat  into  a  deep  pan  with  hot  water  enough  to 
reach  two-thirds  the  height  of  the  mould.  Cover  with 
buttered  paper,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  it 
has  been  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  open  the  door. 
Have  three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  melted ; 
take  the  papers  from  the  fillets,  and  then  baste  with  the 
melted  butter.  Eeplace  the  papers,  and  put  the  frying- 
pans  into  the  oven  with  the  force-meat.  Cook  twenty 
minutes,  keeping  the  oven  door  open  all  the  time. 
While  these  are  cooking,  put  the  pieces  of  tongue  into  a 
small  stew-pan,  with  half  the  glaze  and  half  a  gill  of 
consomme,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Put  the  mush- 
rooms into  another  stew-pan  with  the  remainder  of  the 
consomme",  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Reserve  one 
gill  of  the  supreme  sauce,  and  put  the  chopped  truffles 
into  the  remainder.  Strain  the  consomme  from  the 
mushrooms,  saving  it  for  sauces,  and  put  the  mushrooms 
with  the  sauce.  Drain  the  butter  from  the  fillets.  Re- 
move the  papers,  and  put  half  of  the  gill  of  reserved 
sauce  over  each  pan  of  fillets.  Cook  this  on  top  of  the 
stove  for  four  minutes,  being  careful  not  to  let  it  get  so 
hot  that  the  sauce  will  boil.  While  this  is  cooking,  turn 
the  border  of  force-meat  on  a  large  flat  dish.  Pour  the 
consomme  from  the  pieces  of  tongue,  and  add  the  re- 
mainder of  the  glaze  to  them.  Arrange  the  large  fillets 
and  the  tongue  alternately  around  this  border.  Pour 
the  sauce  and  mushrooms  into  the  centre  of  the  border, 
and  then  arrange  the  minion  fillets  on  the  top.  Serve  at 
once. 


ENTREES.  353 


TIMBALES. 

Timbales  are  made  in  many  ways.  When  prepared 
for  entrees  they  can  be  made  wholly  of  meat  or  fish ;  or 
they  may  be  a  combination  of  meat  and  some  form  of 
macaroni ;  or,  again,  of  pastry  and  some  rich  ragout  of 
meat  or  fish.  The  most  popular  are  those  made  with 
force-meat  and  a  rich  ragout,  or  a  combination  of  force- 
meat, macaroni,  and  a  ragout. 

In  sweet  dishes  the  timbale  may  be  a  crust  of  pastry, 
or  a  fancy  cake  filled  with  fruit  or  cream. 

Eules  will  be  given  for  the  best  timbales  for  entrees. 
As  force-meat  will  enter  largely  into  these  preparations, 
the  directions  for  making  force-meat,  in  the  chapter  on 
"  Garnishes,"  should  be  read  carefully. 

Timbales  are  made  in  very  small  moulds,  holding  from 
half  a  gill  to  a  gill ;  or  in  one  large  mould.  Where  time 
is  of  great  value,  the  large  mould  is  the  best  to  use.  It 
makes  a  very  effective  dish  when  handsomely  decorated. 
A  charlotte-russe  mould  may  be  used  for  these  large 
timbales. 

Timbales  made  wholly  or  in  part  with  force-meat  may 
be  decorated  at  the  sides  and  bottom  with  truffles  or  red 
tongue.  Cut  the  truffles  or  tongue  in  very  thin  slices, 
and  then,  with  small  fancy  cutters,  stamp  out  various 
shapes.  Butter  the  moulds,  and  decorate  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  the  bits  of  truffle  or  tongue.  Cover  the  sides 
and  bottom  with  force-meat,  being  careful  not  to  disturb 
the  decorations. 

When  one  large  mould  is  used  instead  of  several  small 
ones,  three  times  the  quantity  of  filling  must  be  used  for 
the  same  amount  of  force-meat. 


Chicken  Timbales. 

Great  care  is  required  in  the  preparation  of  this  dish, 
which   has   become  popular   as   an   entree   in   company 

23 


354          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

dinners  and  luncheons.  With  the  quantity  of  materials 
that  will  be  given  below,  one  quart  mould  or  a  dozen 
small  dariole  moulds  may  be  filled,  —  enough  for  twelve 
persons.  The  work  may  be  divided  into  three  parts. 

To  Make  the  Force-meat.  —  Use  the  uncooked  breasts 
of  four  chickens,  one  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  stale 
bread,  free  of  crust,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
blade  of  mace,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the  whites  of  four 
eggs. 

Chop  the  chicken  breasts  fine,  and  pound  the  meat  to 
a  paste ;  then  rub  it  through  a  puree  sieve.  There 
should  be  a  pint  of  the  sifted  meat.  Put  the  bread, 
cream,  and  mace  in  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  gently  for  twenty 
minutes ;  then  remove  the  mace,  and,  with  a  spoon,  mash 
the  bread  and  cream  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  and  meat  to  this  paste,  and  finally  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  the 
mixture  until  all  the  ingredients  are  well  blended;  then 
set  away  to  cool. 

To  Make  the  Filling.  —  Use  three  gills  of  cream,  a  pint 
of  cooked  chicken,  cut  into  small  cubes,  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  flour,  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  truffles. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  cream,  and  put  the  re- 
mainder on  to  boil.  Mix  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste 
with  the  half-cupful  of  cold  cream,  and  stir  the  mixture 
into  the  boiling  cream.  Boil  for  one  minute ;  then  add 
the  chicken  and  other  ingredients,  and  cook  for  three 
minutes  longer.  Take  from  the  fire ;  and  if  the  flavor 
of  onion  be  liked,  add  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice  at  this 
point. 

Completion  of  the  Work.  —  Butter  the  mould  or  moulds 
lightly,  and  after  dotting  the  bottom  and  sides  with  bits 
of  truffles,  line  them  with  force-meat,  being  careful  to 
have  every  part  well  covered.  The  sides,  near  the  rim, 
" 


ENTRIES.  355 


will  require  as  thick  a  covering  as  any  part  of  the  mould. 
Now  almost  fill  each  mould  with  the  chicken  preparation, 
and  cover  with  the  force-meat,  being  careful  to  put  on 
only  a  little  at  a  time,  and  always  to  work  from  the 
outer  edge  until  the  centre  is  reached.  Be  careful,  also, 
to  have  the  surface  of  the  contents  of  the  mould  flat, 
because  if  it  be  at  all  rounded  the  contents  will  be  uii- 


Chicken  Timbales. 

stable  when  turned  out  on  a  dish.  Place  the  moulds  in 
a  deep  pan,  and  pour  enough  warm  water  into  the  pan  to 
come  almost  to  the  rims  o.f  the  moulds.  Cover  the  tops 
of  the  moulds  with  buttered  paper,  and  set  the  pan  in 
a  very  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Every- 
thing depends  upon  the  slow  cooking.  At  serving-time 
turn  the  timbales  out  on  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  Bechamel 
cream  sauce  or  Bechamel  yellow  sauce  around  them ;  or 
serve  on  a  napkin. 

Sweetbread  Timbales. 

Make  the  white  chicken  force-meat  (see  chapter  on 
"Garnishes").  Make  a  filling  with  one  large  sweet- 
bread or  a  pair  of  small  ones,  —  there  should  be  a  half- 
pint  when  it  is  cut  into  dice,  —  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  a  scant  half-pint  of  cream,  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  half  a 
teaspoon  ful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice. 


356          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Clean  the  sweetbreads,  and  then  boil  them  in  slightly 
salted  water,  for  twenty  minutes.  Take  them  from  the 
boiling  water,  and  put  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water  for 
ten  minutes.  When  they  are  perfectly  cold,  cut  them 
into  dice.  Add  the  chopped  mushrooms  to  them.  Mix 
foiir  table-spoonfuls  of  the  cream  with  the  flour.  Put 
the  balance  of  the  cream  into  a  small  saucepan  on  the 
stove.  When  the  cream  boils,  add  the  flour,  pouring  in 
slowly  and  stirring  from  the  bottom  all  the  time.  When 
this  boils,  add  the  sweetbreads,  mushrooms,  and  sea- 
soning. Simmer  for  five  minutes;  then  add  the  butter, 
and  take  from  the  fire.  Decorate  six  moulds  with 
truffles,  and  then  line  with  the  force-meat,  the  same  as 
directed  for  chicken  timbales.  Nearly  fill  the  moulds 
with  the  sweetbread  preparation.  Cover  with  force- 
meat, and  cook  as  directed  for  chicken  timbales.  Serve 
with  supreme  or  Bechamel  sauce. 

This  may  be  made  in  one  large  mould ;  in  which 
case  use  a  pint-and-a-half  charlotte  mould.  Use  the 
same  amount  of  force-meat,  but  three  times  as  much 
filling. 

Timbale  a  la  Financtere. 

Make  four  times  the  rule  of  chicken  force-meat  (white 
meat  is  best,  but  the  dark  will  do).  Make  half  a  pint  of 
the  force-meat  into  quenelles,  shaping  them  in  teaspoons. 
Poach  these,  and  put  them  aside  for  the  ragout.  Now 
make  a  financiere  ragout.  Butter  a  charlotte  mould  that 
will  hold  about  a  quart ;  line  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
the  force-meat,  having  it  about  an  inch  thick.  Fill  this 
with  the  ragout,  leaving  a  space  about  an  inch  deep  at 
the  top.  Cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  force-meat, 
having  it  perfectly  smooth  and  level  on  top.  Cover  the 
surface  with  buttered  paper.  Put  the  mould  into  a  deep 
pan,  with  boiling  water  coming  to  within  an  inch  of  the 
top.  Put  into  the  oven,  and  cook  with  the  door  open  for 


ENTRIES.  357 


three-quarters  of  an  hour.  At  serving-time  turn  on  to 
a  warm  dish,  and  gently  raise  the  mould.  Pour  finan- 
ciere  sauce  round  it,  and  serve  at  once. 

Spaghetti  Timbales. 

Use  the  same  materials  as  for  chicken  tim bales,  also 
three  ounces  of  spaghetti.  Have  the  force-meat  and  fill- 
ing ready.  Put  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  and  one 
table-spoonful  of  salt  into  a  fish-kettle  if  you  have  one ; 
if  not,  put  half  the  amount  of  water  and  salt  into  a  large 
milk-pan.  Lay  the  spaghetti  in  this,  being  careful  not 
to  break  it.  Boil  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  off  the 
water,  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Spread  a  clean  towel 


Spaghetti  Timbales. 

on  a  board  placed  upon  the  table.  Lift  the  spaghetti 
carefully,  and  spread  it  at  full  length  on  the  towel. 
Butter  twelve  dariole  moulds,  and  line  them  with  the 
spaghetti.  Begin  in  the  centre  of  the  bottom,  and  wind 
the  spaghetti  around  spirally  until  the  top  of  the  mould 
is  reached.  This  must  be  done  loosely  because  the  spa- 
ghetti will  expand  in  cooking.  Cover  this  with  the  force- 
meat, and  proceed  exactly  as  for  chicken  timbales. 
Serve  with  Bechamel  yellow  sauce. 

Macaroni  Timbales. 

Cook  and  treat  three  ounces  of  macaroni  the  same  as 
the  spaghetti,  except  that  it  must  boil  fifteen  minutes. 


358          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Measure  the  height  of  the  moulds,  and  cut  the  macaroni 
in  lengths  to  fit  the  moulds.  Butter  the  moulds,  and 
line  the  sides  with  the  strips  of  macaroni.  Line  this 
with  the  force-meat,  and  proceed  exactly  the  same  as 
for  the  chicken  timbales.  Serve  with  Bechamel  or 
supreme  sauce. 

Honeycomb  Timbale. 

For  this  use  the  rule  for  the  force-meat  for  chicken 
timbales,  and  three  times  the  rule  for  the  filling;  also 
four  ounces  of  macaroni.  Cook  the  macaroni  the  same 
as  for  macaroni  timbales,  and  cut  it  into  three-quarter- 
inch  lengths.  Butter  a  two-quart  charlotte  mould  very 
generously.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  mould  with  the 
macaroni,  placing  the  short  pieces  on  end.  Treat  the 
sides  in  the  same  manner,  having  the  pieces  of  macaroni 
at  right  angles  with  those  on  the  bottom  of  the  mould. 
Cover  the  macaroni  with  a  thin  coating  of  force-meat, 
and  then  add  the  filling.  Now  cover  with  the  remainder 
of  the  force-meat,  and  treat  the  same  as  chicken  tim- 
bales. Serve  with  mushroom  white  sauce. 

*• 

Chicken-Liver  Timbale. 

Make  the  rule  for  chicken-liver  force-meat,  and  add 
to  it  one  gill  of  Bechamel  sauce.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
then  add  one  pint  of  the  breast  of  cooked  chicken,  cut 
into  dice.  Butter  a  three-pint  charlotte  mould,  and  put 
the  mixture  into  it.  It  will  not  quite  fill  it.  Cover 
with  buttered  paper,  and  place  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water. 
Cook  slowly  for  one  hour.  Turn  upon  a  flat  dish,  and 
pour  Allemand  sauce  around  it. 

Veal  Timbales. 

Veal  may  be  used  for  timbales  in  the  same  manner 
as  chicken,  but  it  must  be  cooked  three  times  as  long. 


ENTRIES.  359 


Game  Timbales. 

Partridge,  grouse,  quail,  pigeons,  etc.,  are  prepared  in 
timbales  the  same  as  chicken. 


Salmon  Timbales. 

For  a  quart  mould,  or  twelve  of  the  smallest-sized 
dariole  moulds,  use  a  pound  and  a  half  of  salmon,  free 
of  skin  and  bones ;  one  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of 
stale  bread,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  half  a 
cupful  of  mushrooms,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  and 
four  eggs. 

Cook  the  bread  and  cream  together  for  ten  minutes. 
Pound  the  salmon  and  mushrooms  to  a  paste,  and  then 
rub  through  the  puree  sieve.  Add  the  seasoning.  When 
the  mixture  of  bread  and  cream  is  cold,  add  this  and 
the  butter  to  the  fish,  and  pound  all  together  until 
thoroughly  blended.  Add  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Put 
this  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  charlotte  mould ;  cover 
with  buttered  paper,  and  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Serve  with  a  lobster  or  anchovy  sauce. 

Other  Fish  Timbales. 

Use  any  kind  of  delicate  white  fish  for  the  force-meat, 
and  make  a  filling  with  lobster,  shrimp,  or  oysters.  The 
rule  for  chicken  timbale  can  be  followed  in  making 
these  fish  timbales.  Of  course,  one  may  change  the 
seasoning  to  suit  one's  taste  in  any  of  these  dishes. 

Swedish  Timbales. 

For  the  shells  use  half  a  pint  of  flour,  one  generous 
gill  of  milk,  two  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  salad  oil. 

Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  and  then  add  the  milk  to 


860          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

them.  Pour  this  mixture  on  to  the  flour,  and  beat  to  a 
smooth  batter.  Add  the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  two 
minutes  longer.  Put  the  timbale  iron  in  a  kettle  of 
hot  fat  for  about  ten  minutes.  Take  the  bowl  of  batter 
in  the  left  hand,  and  hold  it  near  the  kettle  of  fat ;  with 
the  right  hand  lift  the  iron  from  the  fat,  and  dip  it  into 
the  batter,  coating  the  iron  about  an  inch  deep  with  the 


Process  of  Making  Swedish  Timbales. 

batter,  and  holding  it  as  illustrated.  Return  the  iron  to 
the  fat,  and  cook  the  batter  until  it  is  a  delicate  brown. 
It  will  take  about  one  minute.  Lift  the  iron  from  the 
fat,  and  turn  it  over  to  drain  all  the  grease  from  the 
timbale.  Have  a  pan  lined  with  brown  paper,  and -drop 
the  timbale  into  this.  Continue  this  process  until  all  the 
batter  has  been  cooked. 

These  timbale  shells  will  be  found  delicate,  crisp  cups. 
After  making  a  few  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  get  the 
shapes  perfect. 


ENTKEES.  861 


Arrange  the  shells  on  a  dish,  and  put  into  each  a  heap- 
ing table-spoonful  of  any  kind  of  meat  or  fish  cut 
into  dice  and  heated  in  a  delicate  sauce.  Any  of  the 
ragouts  given  in  the  book  may  be  served  in  these 
shells.  They  make  a  nice  dessert  if  arranged  on  a  dish, 
and  one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  any  kind  of  hot 
stewed  and  seasoned  fruit  be  put  into  each  one.  The 
quantity  of  materials  given  will  make  about  eighteen 
shells. 

Macaroni  Timbale  a  la  Milanaise. 

For  a  quart  mould  there  will  be  required  half  the 
rule  of  the  chopped  puff  paste,  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
macaroni,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  cooked  chicken,  half  a 
cupful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  a  pint  of  Bechamel  yellow 
sauce,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

Make  the  paste,  and  chill  it  thoroughly.  Now  cut  two 
pieces  of  white  paper  to  line  the  mould,  —  one  to  fit 
round  the  sides  and  the  other  on  the  bottom.  Butter 
these  papers.  Now  butter  a  quart  charlotte  mould,  and 
line  it  with  about  two-thirds  of  the  paste.  Place  the 
buttered  paper  over  the  paste,  and  fill  the  mould  with 
flour.  Now  roll  the  remainder  of  the  paste  to  the  shape 
of  the  top  of  the  mould,  but  a  little  larger.  Place  this 
on  top  of  the  mould,  and  press  the  edges  against  the 
paste  lining.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour. 
When  done,  take  from  the  mould.  Loosen,  and  lift  off 
the  cover.  Turn  the  flour  out  of  the  case.  Remove 
the  paper,  and  fill  the  case  with  the  macaroni  prepa- 
ration, which  should  be  cooked  while  the  pastry  is 
baking. 

Macaroni  a  la  Milanaise  is  prepared  in  this  way :  Break 
the  macaroni  into  small  pieces,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan 
with  three  pints  of  boiling  water  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Boil  rapidly,  with  the  cover  off  the  pan,  for  half 
an  hour.  Now  drain  off  the  water,  and  add  the  chicken, 
cut  into  cubes,  the  mushrooms,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 


362          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  hot  sauce.  Place 
the  saucepan  in  another  containing  boiling  water,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  hot.  It  will  take  about  four 
minutes  if  the  sauce  and  macaroni  be  hot.  Pour  this 
mixture  into  the  case,  and  after  putting  on  the  cover, 
serve  at  once. 

Any  kind  of  nice  ragout  may  be  used  to  fill  these 
cases,  the  timbale  taking  the  name  of  the  filling. 

Liver-Force-meat  Border,  Garnished  with 
Poultry  Scallops. 

Make  the  chicken-liver  force-meat.  Butter  a  pint-and- 
a-half  border  mould,  —  plain  or  fluted,  —  and  pack  the 
force-meat  into  it.  Set  in  a  cool  place  until  an  hour 
before  the  time  for  serving. 


Force-meat  Border  with  Poultry  Scallops. 

Cut  the  breast  of  a  cold  roast  chicken  or  turkey  into 
thin  round  slices  about  the  size  of  a  silver  dollar.  There 
should  be  a  pint  and  a  half  of  this  meat.  Add  to  this 
half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  cut  in  slices.  Season  with  a 
generous  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Place  in  a  cool  room  until  time  for 
heating. 

One  hour  before  serving-time  place  the  mould  of  force- 
meat in  a  deep  pan,  and  pour  warm  water  into  the  pan  un- 
til it  comes  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  mould. 
Cover  the  mould  with  buttered  paper.  Place  the  pan  on 
top  of  the  stove,  and  heat  the  water  to  the  boiling-point. 


ENTREES.  363 


Draw  the  pan  back  immediately  where  the  water  will 
keep  nearly  at  the  boiling-point  j  but  it  must  not  bubble. 

When  the  force-meat  has  been  cooking  forty  minutes, 
put  the  poultry  and  mushrooms  into  the  double-boiler 
with  half  a  gill  of  chicken  stock.  Set  it  on  the  stove, 
and  at  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  add  one  pint  of  Becha- 
mel yellow  sauce.  Stir  for  five  minutes,  and  then  take 
from  the  fire. 

Turn  the  force-meat  border  on  a  warm  platter.  Fill 
the  centre  with  the  poultry  scallops  and  sauce.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Any  kind  of  force-meat  may  be  used  for  a  border,  and 
the  filling  may  be  of  a  rich  or  simple  ragout  of  poultry, 
sweetbreads,  or  game.  Force-meat  borders  of  fish  may 
be  filled  with  any  kind  of  delicate  fish  warmed  in  Becha- 
mel, cream,  or  poulette  sauce. 

Galantine  of  Fowl. 

Select  a  fowl  weighing  about  five  pounds.  See  that 
every  part  of  the  skin  is  whole.  Singe,  but  do  not  draw 
the  fowl ;  wipe  it  with  a  damp  towel.  Cut  off  the  head, 
the  tips  of  the  wings,  and  the  feet.  Place  the  fowl  on  a 
board,  breast  down.  With  a  small,  sharp  boning-knife, 
cut  in  a  straight  line  through  to  the  bone  the  whole 
length  of  the  fowl.  Now  work  the  knife  between  the 
flesh  and  bone,  beginning  at  the  neck.  Be  careful  not 
to  cut  through  the  skin.  When  the  bones  of  the  second 
joint  of  the  wings  have  been  freed  from  flesh,  disjoint 
and  remove  them.  Take  out  the  bones  from  the  first 
joints.  It  does  not  matter  in  a  galantine  if  the  skin  be 
broken  in  the  second  joint.  Continue  the  work  until  all 
the  flesh  has  been  freed  from  the  bones.  Take  out  the 
skeleton ;  spread  the  skin  and  flesh  on  the  board,  and 
remove  the  gross  fat  that  will  be  found  near  the  crop 
and  near  the  vent  at  the  other  end.  Draw  the  flesh  of 
the  legs  and  the  wings  inside.  Cut  all  the  tough  tendons 


364          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

from  the  drumstick.  Cut  most  of  the  meat  from  the 
legs,  being  careful  not  to  take  the  skin  too.  Spread  this 
on  the  parts  of  the  fowl  where  there  is  little  meat.  Take 
the  minion  fillets  from  the  breast,  and  lay  them  on  the 
part  from  which  the  crop  was  removed.  Dredge  the 
fowl  with  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Spread  on  this  the  force-meat 
described  below,  being  careful  so  to  dispose  of  the  force- 
meat that  when  the  fowl  is  served  all  parts  will  be 
equally  thick. 

To  Make  the  force-meat.  —  Chop  very  fine  the  raw, 
lean  flesh  of  a  fowl  weighing  about  four  pounds.  Add 
to  this  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  fat  salt 
pork,  half  a  cupful  of  fine  cracker  crumbs,  two-thirds  of 
a  cupful  of  rich  stock,  one  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  summer  savory  and  sweet  marjoram,  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  thyme  and  sage,  —  the  herbs 
should  be  powdered,  —  one  table-spoonful  of  onion  juice, 
half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  and  a  small  can  of  truffles,  cut 
rather  coarse.  The  truffles  may  be  omitted. 


Galantine  of  Fowl. 

Mix  all  these  ingredients  thoroughly.  When  the  force- 
meat has  been  spread,  sew  up  the  fowl,  keeping  it  about 
the  same  thickness  its  entire  length.  Place  it  on  a 
strong  piece  of  cloth ;  pin  the  cloth  firmly  about  it,  and 
tie  it  at  both  ends  and  in  three  or  four  other  places,  as 
shown  in  the  cut.  Put  the  bones  of  both  fowls  in  a  fish- 
kettle  or  ham-boiler,  and  lay  the  galantine  on  these.  Place 
on  the  fire.  Add  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  the  galan- 


ENTREES.  365 


tine.  Let  it  boil  up ;  then  skim  it,  and  draw  the  kettle 
back  where  the  water  will  only  simmer.  Add  one  small 
carrot,  one  onion,  two  stalks  of  celery,  half  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  six  cloves,  a  table-spoonful 
of  pepper-corns,  and  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt.  Cover 
the  kettle,  and  let  the  mixture  simmer  for  three  hours. 
Take  the  kettle  from  the  fire,  and  let  the  galantine  stand 
in  the  liquor  for  one  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take 
up  the  galantine.  Take  off  the  cloth,  and  wipe  the  meat 
to  free  it  of  fat  and  moisture.  Pin  the  galantine  in 
a  clean  cloth,  place  a  pan  and  two  bricks  on  top  of  it, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  several  hours. 

When  the  galantine  is  to  be  served,  remove  the  cloth, 
and  place  the  galantine  in  the  oven  for  three  minutes. 
Wipe  it,  and  then  brush  it  with  glaze.  Place  it  on  a  long 
dish,  and  garnish  with  aspic  jelly  and  parsley  or  white 
celery  leaves. 

A  turkey  can  be  prepared  in  the  same  way.  Thin 
slices  of  cold  boiled  red  tongue  are  frequently  spread 
over  the  boned  fowl  with  the  force-meat.  The  water  in 
which  the  galantine  and  bones  are  cooked  will  answer 
for  the  aspic  jelly.  If  a  set  of  calf's  feet  be  boiled  with 
the  other  things,  no  gelatine  will  be  required  for  the 
jelly. 

Fillet  of  Partridge. 

Fillet  the  partridges,  and  prepare  the  fillets  the  same 
as  those  cut  from  chickens. 


Fillet  of  Cooked  Partridges. 

Use  three  cold  roasted  partridges,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls each  of  chopped  carrot,  turnip,  celery,  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  three  of  flour,  six  of  butter, 
one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  clove,  a  small 
piece  of  mace,  one  can  of  mushrooms,  one  gill  of  claret, 
one  quart  of  water,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 


366          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Remove  the  fillets  from  the  partridge.  Free  the 
second  joints  of  the  legs  of  skin  and  bone,  and  place 
them  on  the  dish  with  the  fillets.  Cut  all  the  tender 
bits  of  meat  from  the  birds,  and  place  them  beside  the 
second  joints.  Put  the  fillets  and  other  portions  of 
clear  meat  in  a  cold  place  until  it  is  time  to  heat  them. 

Break  up  the  bones  of  the  three  birds,  and  put  them 
in  a  stew-pan  with  the  water  and  any  tough  pieces  of 
meat,  such  as  the  drumsticks  and  wings.  Cover,  and 
simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
strain  off  the  liquor  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
skim  off  the  fat.  Now  put  the  butter  and  chopped  vege- 
tables in  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  draw  forward  to  a  hotter  part  of 
the  stove,  and  stir  until  the  vegetables  get  browned 
slightly.  Now  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  turns  a 
dark  brown ;  then  draw  to  a  cooler  place,  and  gradually 
add  one  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  bones  were 
boiled.  Now  add  the  spice,  a  grain  of  cayenne,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour,  and  then 
skim  off  the  fat  that  will  rise  to  the  top.  Add  the 
mushrooms  and  all  the  partridge  meat  except  the  fillets, 
first  seasoning  the  meat  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook 
gently  for  ten  minutes;  then  add  the  lemon  juice  and 
half  the  claret,  and  cook  two  minutes  longer. 

As  soon  as  the  mushrooms  and  meat  have  been  put  on 
to  heat  in  the  sauce,  put  the  fillets  into  a  stew-pan  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  half  a  cupful  of 
the  stock  from  the  bones,  and  half  the  claret.  Cook  gently 
for  ten  minutes.  Now  heap  the  mushrooms  and  the 
meat  in  the  centre  of  a  warm  dish.  Arrange  the  fillets 
around  this  mound.  Pour  the  sauce  in  which  the  fillets 
were  warmed  into  the  other  sauce.  Stir  well,  and  pour 
over  the  mixture  in  the  centre  of  the  dish.  A  circle  of 
stoned  olives  makes  a  pretty  garnish  for  this  dish. 
Serve  very  hot. 


ENTRIES.  367 


Fillets  of  Partridge  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Fillet  three  partridges,  and  separate  the  minion  fillets 
from  the  large  ones.  Season  the  fillets  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  then  dip  them  in  a  mixture  consisting  of 
one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  table-spoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter.  Let 
the  butter  cool  on  them.  Now  dip  them  in  two  beaten 
eggs  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Be  sure  that  they  are 
well  covered  with  the  egg  and  crumbs.  Fry  them  in 
boiling  fat.  The  large  fillets  will  cook  in  six  minutes, 
and  the  small  ones  in  four.  Drain  them  on  brown  paper. 
Have  a  dish  of  vegetables  prepared  a  la  jardiniere  and 
arranged  in  the  centre  of  a  large  dish.  Kest  the  fillets 
against  the  mound  of  vegetables,  and  pour  Bechamel 
cream  sauce  around  the  base.  Serve  very  hot. 

Fillets  of  Grouse. 

Fillets  of  grouse  may  be  prepared  the  same  as  fillets 
of  partridge. 

All  the  small  birds  may  be  filleted  in  the  same  way, 
but  the  time  of  cooking  is  only  two-thirds  as  long  as  for 
the  large  ones. 

Pigeon  Cutlets. 

For  eight  cutlets  use  four  pigeons,  one  large  egg,  half 
a  pint  of  Dutch  sauce,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a 
little  pepper,  and  bread  crumbs.  Take  the  fillets  from 
the  pigeons,  and  season  them  with  the  salt  and  pepper. 
Have  the  egg  beaten  in  a  plate.  Put  one  of  the  small 
wing-bones  in  the  small  end  of  each  fillet.  Have  the 
sauce  cold,  and  cover  each  fillet  with  it.  Now  roll  the 
fillets  lightly  in  the  crumbs ;  then  cover  them  with 
beaten  egg,  and  roll  again  in  crumbs.  Place  in  the 
frying-basket,  and  cook  in  fat  for  five  minutes.  Drain, 
and  arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  warm  dish.  Fill  the  centre 


368          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  the  dish  with  cone-shaped  sweet-potato  croquettes. 
Serve  remoulade  or  Tartar  sauce  iu  a  separate  dish.  Or 
the  legs  aud  body  of  the  pigeons  may  be  made  into  a 
ragout,  and  be  poured  into  the  centre  of  the  dteh.  No 
other  sauce  will  be  required.  Serve  a  dish  of  some  deli- 
cate vegetable  with  the  cutlets. 


Another  way  of  preparing  pigeon  cutlets  is  to  use  cold 
meat,  and  make  exactly  the  same  as  chicken  cutlets. 

Salmi  of  Duck. 

Use  two  cold  roast  ducks,  a  can  of  mushrooms,  eigh- 
teen stoned  olives,  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  half  a  pint 
of  clear  stock,  one  gill  of  sherry,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  cayenne,  and 
twelve  pieces  of  bread  of  triangular  shape  fried  in 
butter. 

Cut  the  duck  into  handsome  joints,  and  place  it  in  a 
stew-pan.  Sprinkle  it  with  the  salt  and  pepper.  Pour 
the  stock  over  it,  and  let  it  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling- 
point.  Add  the  olives  and  mushrooms,  and  boil  for  five 
minutes.  Now  add  the  Spanish  sauce,  and  cook  until  it 
boils.  When  the  sauce  boils,  add  the  sherry  and  lemon 
juice,  and  cook  one  minute  longer.  Arrange  the  duck  in 
a  mound  on  a  warm  dish.  Place  the  mushrooms  and 
olives  at  the  base,  and  finish  with  a  border  of  the  fried 
bread.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  duck,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

This  is  a  rich  dish.  The  quantity  given  is  enough  for 
ten  or  twelve  persons. 

Pattie  Cases. 

Make  the  rule  for  puff  paste  or  chopped  puff  paste. 
When  it  has  been  thoroughly  chilled,  place  it  on  the 
board  and  roll  it  down  evenly  until  about  an  inch  thick. 


ENTRIES.  369 


Dip  a  pattie-cutter  which  will  measure  about  three  and 
a  half  inches  in  diameter  into  a  plate  of  flour  ;  shake  off 
all  the  loose  flour,  and  then  cut  out  a  round  of  the  paste. 
Dip  the  cutter  into  the  flour  each  time  before  cutting 
the  paste.  When  all  are  done,  dip  a  cutter  two  inches 
in  diameter  into  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  then  press 
it  about  two-thirds  through  the  paste,  in  the  centre. 
Put  the  patties  into  a  flat  baking-pan,  having  them  at 
least  an  inch  apart,  and  a  little  distance  from  the  sides 
of  the  pan.  Put  the  pan  into  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  for 


Pattie  Cases. 

ten  minutes  ;  now  lessen  the  heat,  and  cook  for  twenty- 
five  minutes  longer.  Take  from  the  oven,  and  with  a 
teaspoon  lift  off  the  covers,  in  the  centres  of  the  patties, 
and  scoop  out  the  uncooked  paste  that  will  be  found 
beneath  them,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  shells. 
The  cases  are  now  ready  to  be  filled  with  a  hot  prepara- 
tion of  fish  or  meat.  If  they  are  not  to  be  used  at  once, 
put  them  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  and  heat  them  at 
serving-time.  Pattie-cutters  may  be  plain  or  fluted, 
round  or  oval. 

Large  Vol-au-vent  Case. 

Use  one  of  the  rules  for  puff  paste.  When  the  paste 
is  thoroughly  chilled,  roll  it  down  to  the  thickness  of 
an  inch  and  a  half.  With  a  sharp  knife  trim  off  the 
edges,  giving  the  paste  a  slightly  oval  shape.  It  will 
now  measure  about  nine  inches  in  diameter.  Trace  a 
circle  on  this  about  two  inches  and  a  half  from  the  edge. 


370          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Dip  a  case-knife  into  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  and,  follow- 
ing, the  circle,  cut  about  two-thirds  through  the  paste. 
Place  the  vol-au-vent  in  a  large  flat  pan,  being  careful 
not  to  let  the  paste  touch  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Bake 
for  one  hour.  Have  the  oven  very  hot  for  the  first  ten 
minutes,  and  then  reduce  the  heat.  When  done,  take 
off  the  cover  and  scoop  out  the  uncooked  paste. 

Large  cutters  come  for  vol-au-vents.  If  you  have  a 
set,  use  them  the  same  as  the  pattie-cutters. 

Vol-au-vent  Baked  in  a  Mould. 

Have  a  mould  of  the  size  you  require.  Cut  some 
plain  stiff  white  paper,  of  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
sides  and  bottom  of  the  m^uld,  and  butter  them.  Butter 
the  mould.  Roll  puff  paste  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  line  the  mould  with  it.  Lay  the  papers  on 
this.  Now  fill  the  mould  with  flour,  and  cover  with 
white  paper.  Boll  a  piece  of  paste  to  fit  the  top,  having 
it  half  an  inch  thick.  Prick  it  with  a  fork.  Cover  the 
mould  with  this,  pressing  the  edges  .of  the  cover  and 
the  lining  of  the  mould  together.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  one  hour.  When  done,  lift  off  the  cover, 
turn  out  the  flour,  and  remove  the  papers.  The  case  is 
now  ready  to  fill  with  any  preparation  of  fish,  meat,  or 
fruit.  The  flour  may  be  sifted  and  used  for  bread.  A 
two-quart  charlotte  mould  may  be  used  for  the  large  vol- 
au-vent,  and  the  small  timbale  moulds  for  the  small  vol- 
au-vents.  This  is  the  most  economical  mode  of  baking 
a  vol-au-vent. 

Various  Kinds  of  Vol-au-vents  and  Patties. 

A  vol-au-vent  or  pattie  case  may  be  filled  with  any 
kind  of  delicate  meat  or  fish  heated  in  any  one  of  the 
following-named  sauces  :  white,  Bechamel,  poulette, 
clear  brown,  or  mushroom.  The  meat  must  be  free  of 
fat,  skin,  and  bones.  It  should  be  cut  into  cubes  when 


ENTRIES.  371 

cold.  Season  a  pint  and  a  half  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 
Heat  this  in  one  pint  of  sauce. 

Fish  is  always  improved  by  the  addition  of  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  which  should  be  put  in  after 
the  hot  mixture  is  taken  from  the  fire. 

Oysters  should  be  heated  to  the  boiling-point  in  their 
own  liquor.  They  should  then  be  drained,  and  added 
to  a  hot  sauce. 

Royal  Vol-au-vent. 

To  fill  a  large  vol-au-vent  case  use  a  pint  of  cooked 
chicken  and  half  a  pint  of  cooked  sweetbreads,  cut  into 
cubes,  half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  cut  in  small  pieces,  a 
generous  half -pint  of  white  stock,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
one  small  slice  of  carrot,  one  slice  of  onion,  a  bit  of 
mace,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Mix  the  flour  and  butter  in  a  small  saucepan.  Add 
half  the  salt,  pepper,  vegetables,  and  stock.  Place  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  its  contents  until  the  sauce 
begins  to  boil ;  then  set  back  where  it  will  only  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes.  When  that  time  has  passed,  strain 
the  sauce  into  another  saucepan.  Add  the  mushrooms, 
and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Season  the  chicken  and 
sweetbread  with  the  remainder  of  the  salt  and  pepper. 

When  the  mushrooms  have  been  cooking  in  the  sauce 
for  five  minutes,  add  the  cream,  chicken,  and  sweetbread. 
Boil  up  once ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
lemon  juice.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  large  vol-au-vent 
case.  This  filling  will  answer  also  for  small  patties. 

Parisian  Vol-au-vents. 

Line  and  cover  a  dozen  small  dariole  moulds  as  di- 
rected for  vol-au-vent  cases  baked  in  moulds.  Bake 


372          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Take  off  the  covers,  and  remove  the  flour  and  paper. 
Fill  with  a  mixture  prepared  as  follows  :  — 

Clean  a  sweetbread  and  the  brains  of  a  calf,  and  boil 
for  twenty  minutes ;  then  plunge  them  into  ice-water, 
and  when  they  are  cold,  cut  them  into  very  small  dice, 
and  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Next  put  a 
cupful  of  cream  on  to  boil.  Mix  a  level  table-spoonful 
of  flour  with  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  cold  cream,  and  stir 
into  the  boiling  cream.  Boil  up  once,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  sweetbread  and  brains,  and 
cook  the  dish  for  eight  minutes. 

After  filling  the  vol-au-vents  with  this  mixture,  put 
the  covers  in  place,  and  serve  at  once.  Chicken  and 
mushrooms  may  be  substituted  for  the  sweetbread  and 
brains. 

Vol-au-vent  of  Turkey. 

For  a  large  vol-au-vent  use  a  generous  pint  and  a  half 
of  cooked  turkey,  cut  into  cubes,  one  pint  of  cream,  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Season  the  turkey  with  the 
pepper  and  one  teaspoonful  of  the  salt.  Mix  the  flour 
with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  cream.  Put  the  rest  of 
the  cream  on  the  fire  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  it  boils, 
stir  in  the  mixed  flour  and  cream.  Cook  for  one  minute, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Now  add  the  salt  and  onion  juice, 
and  lastly  the  turkey.  Simmer  for  five  minutes,  and  fill 
the  vol-au-vent. 

Italian  Vol-au-vent. 

Use  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  six  chicken  livers, 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms  or  one  can  of  mush- 
I'ooins,  one  pint  of  stock,  one  table-spoonful  of  Parmesan 
cheese,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  two 
of  strained  tomato,,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion, 


ENTRIES.  373 


one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Break  the  macaroni  into  small  pieces,  and  put  it  in  a 
stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  salt.  Boil  it  for  half  an  hour. 

Cut  the  chicken  livers  into  cubes,  and  boil  them  for 
half  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover  them. 

Put  the  butter,  onion,  and  parsley  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Draw  the  stew-pan  to  a 
hotter  part  of  the  fire  after  that  time  has  passed,  and 
add  the  flour.  Stir  until  frothy,  and  then  add  the  stock. 
Stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils ;  then  draw  back,  and  let 
it  simmer  five  minutes.  Strain  the  sauce  into  another 
stew-pan,  and  add  the  salt,  pepper,  mushrooms,  and 
chicken  livers. 

Drain  the  macaroni  free  of  water,  and  add  to  it  the 
strained  tomato  and  the  cheese.  When  the  livers  and 
mushrooms  have  been  cooking  in  the  sauce  for  ten  min- 
utes, put  in  the  macaroni.  Turn  this  mixture  into  a 
large  vol-au-vent  case,  and  serve  at  once. 

Imperial  Vol-au-vent. 

For  this  vol-au-vent  there  will  be  required  the  rule 
for  puff  paste,  the  greater  part  of  three  chickens,  a  bottle 
of  cock's-combs,  truffles,  and  mushrooms,  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  supreme  sauce,  the  rule  for  chicken  quenelles, 
the  white  of  an  egg,  one  pint  of  clear  stock,  and  some 
salt  and  pepper. 

Make  the  puff  paste,  and  chill  it.  When  thoroughly 
chilled,  roll  it  down  to  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  being 
careful  to  get  all  parts  of  equal  thickness.  Lay  an  oval 
border  mould  on  this,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the 
paste  in  the  form  of  the  mould;  cut  out  the  centre  of 
this  paste,  leaving  a  border  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
wide.  Place  this  rim  of  paste  where  it  will  keep  cold 
while  the  bottom  is  being  rolled  and  cut.  Koll  the 


374          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

piece  of  paste  that  was  cut  from  the  centre  to  the  thick- 
ness of  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Lay  the  border  mould  on 
this,  and  cut  out  a  piece  the  size  and  shape  of  the  mould. 
Brush  this  over  with  the  white  of  an  egg  which  has  been 
beaten  with  one  table-spoonful  of  cold  water.  Put  the 
ring  of  paste  on  this,  and  press  slightly.  Place  on  a  large 

dripping-pan,  and 
bake  for  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour. 
Have  the  oven  very 
hot  for  the  first  ten 
minutes ;  then  re- 
duce the  heat  for 
Imperial  Vol-au-vent  Case.  the  remainder  of  the 

time.      This   vol-au- 

vent  may  be  baked  at  the  time  it  is  to  be  served ;  or  it 
may  be  baked  the  day  before,  and  be  heated  in  the  oven 
just  before  being  filled. 

To  Prepare  the  Filling.  —  Fillet  the  chickens.  Use  one- 
half  of  the  fillets  for  the  force-meat,  and  prepare  the  other 
half  as  for  supreme  of  chicken,  decorating  them  with 
truffles.  Lay  them  in  a  buttered  saucepan,  and  cover 
with  buttered  paper ;  and  put  them  into  the  refrigerator 
until  it  is  time  to  poach  them. 

Make  the  quenelles,  but  shape  them  in  teaspoons. 
Make  one  quenelle  round,  for  the  top  of  the  dish.  Lay 
them  in  a  buttered  pan,  and  decorate  with  truffles ;  cover 
with  buttered  paper,  and  put  into  the  refrigerator.  Put 
the  chicken  legs  into  a  stew-pan  with  boiling  water 
enough  to  cover  them,  and  let  them  simmer  until  tender. 
If  the  chickens  are  not  more  than  a  year  old,  they  will 
probably  be  done  in  one  hour.  Let  them  cool  in  the 
water ;  when  cold,  take  them  from  the  liquor  and  free 
them  of  skin,  fat,  and  bones.  Cut  the  meat  into  pieces 
the  size  of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  There  should  be  a 
generous  pint  and  a  half  of  meat.  Season  it  with  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 


ENTRIES.  375 


of  white  pepper.     Put  this  in  a  cool  place  until  the  time 
for  putting  the  dish  together. 

Half  an  hour  before  serving-time,  put  the  cock's- 
combs  in  a  stew-pan  with  enough  chicken  stock  to  cover 
them,  and  cook  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Put  the 
chicken  fillets  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  Cover  the  quenelles  with  boiling  chicken  stock, 
and  set  on  a  part  of  the  stove  where  they  will  keep  at  the 
boiling-point  for  twenty  minutes.  Heat  the  vol-au-vent 
in  the  oven  with  the  door  open;  it  will  take  about 
twenty  minutes.  Put  the  chicken  which  was  cut  up 
into  a  stew-pan  with  one  pint  of  the  supreme  sauce,  and 


Imperial  Vol-au-vent 

cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Heat  the  remaining  half-pint 
of  sauce.  Put  the  mushrooms  into  a  small  stew-pan  with 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoon ful  of  salt, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  stock,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  sauce.  Simmer  for  five  minutes. 

Take  the  vol-au-vent  from  the  oven,  place  it  on  a 
flat  dish,  and  fill  it  with  the  chicken  and  supreme  sauce. 
Drain  the  fillets,  quenelles,  cock's-eombs,  and  mush- 
rooms. Dip  them  into  the  hot  sauce,  and  arrange  them 
on  the  top  of  the  vol-au-vent,  as  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion. This  is  a  very  elaborate  dish,  but  it  has  this  ad- 
vantage, —  it  may  be  prepared  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
served. 


376          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Rissoles. 

These  may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  cooked  meat  or 
fish,  —  the  more  delicate  the  better.  The  crust  should 
always  be  of  puff  paste.  The  trimmings  left  from  mak- 
ing pies,  patties,  or  vol-au-vents  may  be  used. 

Chicken  Rissoles. 

For  twelve  rissoles  use  half  a  pint  of  cooked  chicken, 
cut  into  dice,  two  table-  spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
one  gill  of  milk,  three  drops  of  onion  juice,  a  level  tea- 
Spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  two  eggs,  one-fourth  of 
the  rule  for  puff  paste,  or  the  trimmings  of  puff  paste. 

Prepare  and  chill  the  paste.  Season  the  chicken  and 
mushroom  with  the  salt,  pepper,  and  onion  juice.  Put 
the  milk  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk.  Boil  for  half  a  minute, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Add  the  chicken  and  mushroom  ; 
cook  for  one  minute,  and  then  turn  into  a  dish  and  set 
away  to  cool. 

When  the  preparation  of  chicken  is  cool,  roll  the  paste 
as  thin  as  possible,  and  cut  it  out  with  a  four-inch  fluted 
pattie-cutter.  Put  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  the  cold 
chicken  in  the  centre  of  each  round  of  paste  ;  wet  the 
edges  with  the  white  of  one  egg  beaten  with  a  table- 

spoonful   of   cold  water; 

fold  the  paste  over,  and 

press  the  edges  together. 

Have  the   white   of    one 


Rissoles,  before  and  after  Folding.       and  the  y°lks  °f  tw° 

beaten    with    one    table- 

spoonful  of  milk;  cover  the  rissoles  with  this.  When 

all  are  coated  with  the  egg,  put  them  into  the  frying- 

basket,  and  cook  in  hot  fat  for  four  minutes  Drain, 
and  serve  at  once. 


ENTRIES.  377 


This  dish  is  served  as  an  entre'e.  All  kinds  of  rissoles 
are  made  in  the  same  manner.  When  oysters  are  used 
they  must  be  scalded  in  their  own  liquor,  and  be  well 
drained  before  they  are  cut  up.  The  seasoning  of  the 
preparations  may  be  changed  to  suit  various  tastes. 

Anchovy  Patties. 

Make  the  anchovy  force-meat,  and  add  to  it  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  any  white  sauce.  Keep  cool  until  the  time 
for  making  the  patties.  Make  half  the  rule  for  puff 
paste,  and  let  the  paste  become  thoroughly  chilled. 
When  it  is  firm,  cut  off  about  two-thirds  of  it.  Roll  this 
fco  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  out 
with  a  large  pattie-cutter  as  many  rounds  as  possible 
(there  should  be  about  a  dozen).  Place  these  rounds  on 
a  tin  sheet,  and  put  them  into  the  refrigerator.  Now 
put  the  trimmings  and  the  cold  paste  together,  and  roll 
out  and  cut  as  before.  Should  the  trimmings  have  be- 
come very  soft,  chill  them  before  rolling.  Put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  anchovy  force-meat  in  the  centre  of  each 
one.  Wet  the  rims  with  cold  water.  Now  cover  with 
the  rounds  of  paste  that  were  cut  out  first.  Have  a  sec- 
ond pattie-cutter  half  an  inch  smaller  in  diameter  than 
the  first.  Press  its  blunt  edge  on  the  centre  of  the  pattie 
and  around  the  filling  of  anchovy.  This  will  fasten  the 
two  sheets  together  near  the  force-meat.  Bake  in  a 
rather  quick  oven  for  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

These  patties  are  served  in  a  dinner  or  luncheon  as 
an  entre'e. 

CROQUETTES. 

Croquettes  may  be  made  in  any  form  that  suits  one's 
taste.  The  most  common  are  the  cylinder,  cone,  pear, 
and  ball  shapes.  These  may  be  formed  by  the  hands. 
A  hinged  mould  comes  for  forming  cones.  The  cylinder 
and  ball  shapes  are  the  best,  because  a  very  soft 


378          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


PQ 


ENTRIES.  379 


be  shaped  into  this  form,  while  the  cone  and  pear 
shapes  require  a  firmer  mixture.  The  croquette  prepara- 
tion should  be  thoroughly  chilled;  if  not,  it  will  be  a 
difficult  matter  to  form  the  croquettes.  There  must  be 
plenty  of  fine  dried  crumbs,  a  large  smooth  board,  a 
beaten  egg  in  a  deep  plate,  a  table-spoon  and  case-knife, 
or,  better  still,  a  palette-knife. 

Sprinkle  the  board  lightly  with  the  crumbs.  Shape 
the  croquettes  in  the  hand,  and  then  roll  them  on  the 
board,  handling  them  carefully.  When  all  are  shaped, 
spread  a  thick  layer  of  crumbs  on  one  end  of  the  board. 
Put  a  croquette  in  the  plate  of  beaten  egg,  and  with  a 
spoon  pour  the  egg  over  every  part.  Slip  the  knife 
under  the  croquette,  and  lift  it  to  the  bed  of  crumbs. 
Koll  it  in  the  crumbs  until  every  part  is  coated ;  then 
lift  it  with  the  hand,  and  bring  the  ends  down  on  the 
board  with  a  light  tap.  This  will  give  a  regular,  smooth 
shape  to  the  ends. 

When  all  the  croquettes  are  breaded,  they  may  be 
fried  at  once ;  or  they  may  be  put  in  a  cool  place  and 
kept  there  twelve  hours  or  longer.  When  ready  to  fry, 


Croquettes  ready  for  Serving. 

put  some  into  the  basket,  being  careful  not  to  crowd 
them.  Fry  in  smoking  hot  fat  for  a  minute  and  a  half. 
Drain  them  on  brown  paper,  arrange  on  a  folded  napkin, 
and  serve  very  hot.  A  sauce  is  frequently  served  with 
them. 


380          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

If  a  mould  be  used  to  form  the  croquettes,  butter  it 
generously,  sprinkle  with  dried  crumbs,  and  pack  it 
solid  with  the  croquette  mixture.  Now  draw  out  the 
wire  that  holds  the  two  pieces  of  the  mould  together, 
take  out  the  croquette,  fasten  the  mould  again,  and 
proceed  as  before.  The  mould  is  to  be  buttered  only 
once,  but  it  must  be  lined  with  crumbs  each  time  a 
croquette  is  formed. 

If  the  mould  makes  a  larger  croquette  than  you  wish, 
only  partially  fill  it.  Remember  that  the  mixture  must 
always  be  packed  solid,  or  the  shape  will  not  be  good. 
When  croquettes  are  formed  in  a  pear  shape,  they  should 
be  arranged  on  a  dish  with  the  large  end  down,  and  a  bit 
of  parsley  stuck  in  the  stem  end  of  each  one. 

Sweetbread  Croquettes. 

For  a  dozen  croquettes  use  one  pint  of  sweetbreads  that 
have  been  boiled  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  cooled,  and 
chopped  rather  fine.  It  will  take  two  or  three  pairs  of 
sweetbreads  for  this  ;  or,  if  weighed  after  being  cleaned, 
about  one  pound  and  a  quarter.  With  the  sweetbreads 
use  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
mushrooms,  chopped  fine,  two  table -spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  of  lemon  juice,  a  level 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
minced  parsley,  and  two  eggs.  Some  crumbs  and  two 
extra  eggs  will  be  required  for  breading  the  croquettes. 

Add  the  seasoning  and  the  chopped  mushrooms  to  the 
chopped  sweetbreads.  Put  the  cream  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  place  on  the  stove  where  it  will  heat  slowly.  Beat 
the  flour  and  butter  together,  and  add  the  mixture  to  the 
cream  when  the  latter  boils.  Stir  until  smooth;  then 
add  the  sweetbread  mixture.  Stir  well,  and  simmer  for 
three  minutes.  Now  add  the  two  eggs,  well  beaten. 
Stir  quickly  into  the  boiling  mixture,  and  take  from  the 


ENTRIES.  381 


fire  immediately.  Pour  this  on  a  platter,  and  put  away 
in  a  cool  place.  It  should  stand  for  two  or  three  hours. 
When  cool  and  firm,  shape  into  croquettes ;  then  bread 
and  fry.  Serve  with  mushroom  white  sauce  or  Becha- 
mel yellow  sauce. 

Chicken  and  Mushroom  Croquettes. 

For  eighteen  croquettes  use  one  pint  of  cooked  chicken, 
chopped  rather  fine,  half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  chopped 
fine,  three  gills  of  cream,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
three  eggs,  and  crumbs  and  two  extra  eggs  for  breading. 
Make  these  the  same  as  the  sweetbread  croquettes. 
Serve  with  mushroom  white  sauce. 

*  Mutton  Croquettes. 

Chop  rather  fine  enough  mutton  to  make  a  solid  pint, 
and  season  with  a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  Put  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream  into  the  frying- 
pan,  and  while  it  is  heating,  beat  together,  until  light 
and  creamy,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour  and  three  of 
butter.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Add 
the  seasoned  mutton,  and  stir  the  dish  until  it  boils ; 
then  let  it  boil  for  three  minutes,  and  after  adding  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  stirring  well,  remove  from  the 
fire  immediately,  and  turn  out  upon  a  platter  to  cool. 
Sprinkle  a  board  slightly  with  crumbs,  and  when  the 
mixture  has  become  cool,  take  a  dessert-spoonful  in  the 
hand  and  give  it  a  cylindrical  shape ;  then  roll  lightly 
upon  the  crumbed  board.  Shape  all  the  mixture  in  this 
manner. 

Beat  two  eggs  in  a  soup-plate  until  they  are  thor- 
oughly broken,  but  not  so  long  as  to  make  them  light. 


382          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Spread  part  of  the  board  thickly  with  crumbs.  Dip  the 
croquettes,  one  by  one,  into  the  beaten  eggs,  and  then 
roll  in  the  crumbs,  being  careful  that  every  part  is 
covered.  When  all  have  been  treated  in  this  way,  put  a 
few  at  a  time  into  the  frying-basket,  and  plunge  into 
boiling  fat.  Cook  until  they  are  a  rich  brown.  The  fat 
should  be  so  hot  that  two  minutes  will  suffice ;  if  it  be 
not  hot  enough  when  the  croquettes  are  put  in,  they  will 
crack  open. 

If  croquettes  be  desired  for  breakfast,  they  may  be 
shaped  the  previous  day,  and  kept  in  the  ice-chest  until 
the  time  for  frying.  Any  kind  of  meat  may  be  used  in 
place  of  mutton ;  and  if  one  like  the  flavor  of  onion,  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  juice  may  be  used  at  the  outset,  with 
the  other  seasoning. 

*  Meat-and-Hominy  Croquettes. 

Put  half  a  cupful  of  milk  into  a  frying-pan,  and  heat 
to  the  boiling-point ;  then  stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  boiled 
hominy,  a  cupful  of  fine-chopped  meat,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  an  eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter.  Stir  well,  and  when  the  mixture 
begins  to  boil,  add  one  well-beaten  egg.  Cook  a  minute 
longer,  and  then  spread  upon  a  platter  to  cool.  When 
cold,  shape  into  little  cylinders  about  three  inches  long, 
and  after  rolling  these  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  fry  in  fat  until  brown,  —  say  two  minutes. 
All  the  work  except  the  frying  may  be  done  a  day  in 
advance. 

Chestnut  Croquettes. 

Use  fifty  Spanish  chestnuts,  two  gills  of  cream,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  four  eggs,  and  some  sifted  bread  crumbs  for 
breading  the  croquette's. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  chestnuts.  Put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil 


ENTRIES.  883 


for  thirty  minutes.  Drain  off  all  the  water,  and  pound 
the  chestnuts  in  the  mortar.  When  they  are  very  fine, 
add  one  table-spoonful  of  the  butter,  and  continue  pound- 
ing until  it  is  well  mixed  with  the  chestnuts.  Now  add 
the  remainder  of  the  butter  and  the  salt,  and  pound  for 
ten  minutes  longer.  Add  the  cream,  a  little  at  a  time. 

When  all  the  cream  has  been  worked  into  the  chest- 
nuts, rub  the  mixture  through  a  puree  sieve.  Beat  three 
eggs  till  light,  and  then  beat  them  into  the  strained  in- 
gredients. Put  the  mixture  into  the  double-boiler,  and 
cook  for  about  eight  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  It' 
should  be  smooth  and  thick  at  the  end  of  this  time,  if 
the  water  in  the  outer  boiler  has  been  boiling  rapidly  all 
the  while.  Spread  it  on  a  large  platter,  and  set  away  to 
cool.  When  the  mixture  is  cold,  butter  the  hands 
slightly,  and  shape  the  mixture  into  cylinders,  cones,  or 
balls.  Bread  these  with  the  fourth  egg  and  the  fine 
crumbs.  Fry  for  one  minute  and  a  half.  Arrange  on  a 
warm  napkin,  and  serve  at  once. 

These  are  nice  with  roast  turkey  or  any  kind  of  roasted 
or  broiled  poultry.  If  served  by  themselves,  as  an 
entree,  pour  Bechamel  cream  sauce  or  supreme  sauce 
around  them. 

*  Sweet-Potato  Croquettes. 

For  eight  croquettes  use  enough  boiled  sweet  potatoes 
to  make  a  pint  when  mashed,  half  a  cupful  of  hot  milk, 
two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  two  eggs,  and  some  crumbs  for  breading. 

When  the  potatoes  have  been  mashed  smooth  and 
light,  beat  into  them  the  hot  milk  and  then  the  salt  and 
butter.  Next  beat  one  egg  until  light,  and  beat  this 
into  the  mixture,  which  should  now  be  shaped  into 
croquettes.  Beat  the  second  egg  in  a  soup-plate.  Cover 
the  croquettes  with  this  egg,  and  roll  them  in  the  bread 
crumbs.  Fry  in  fat  till  they  turn  a  rich  brown.  Serve 
at  once. 


384          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

These  are  nice  to  serve  with  game. 

If  the  croquettes  be  preferred  flavored  and  sweetened, 
add  to  the  mixture  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  slight 
grating  of  nutmeg,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  The  simpler  mode  is,  however,  the  better,  if  they 
are  to  be  an  accompaniment  of  meat  or  game.  When 
served  with  a  sauce,  as  an  entree,  the  flavoring  and 
sweetening  should  be  used. 

*  Rice  Croquettes  a  la  Parmesan. 

For  eighteen  croquettes  use  half  a  cupful  of  raw  rice, 
three  gills  of  stock,  one  cupful  of  strained  tomato,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-tenth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
four  eggs,  and  crumbs  for  breading. 

Wash  the  rice,  and,  putting  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  the 
stock,  boil  it  for  ten  minutes.  Now  add  the  strained 
tomato,  the  onion  juice,  salt,  and  cayenne,  and  cook  for 
twenty  minutes  longer. 

When  the  rice  has  been  cooking  for  half  an  hour, 
try  a  few  grains,  and  if  they  be  tender,  add  the  cheese 
and  two  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Stir  for  one  min- 
ute, and  take  from  the  fire  immediately.  Spread  on  a 
platter,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  shape,  and 
then  bread  with  the  remaining  two  eggs  and  the  crumbs. 
Fry  for  one  minute  and  a  half.  Arrange  on  a  warm 
napkin,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Baked  Croquettes. 

The  materials  are :  a  pint  of  fine-chopped  cooked  meat, 
—  any  kind  will  do,  —  one  cupful  of  milk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  level  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  three  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  cupful  of  dried, 
pounded,  and  sifted  bread  crumbs. 


ENTREES.  385 


First  beat  the  three  eggs.  Mix  the  seasoning  with  the 
chopped  meat.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  frying- 
pan.  Mix  the  flour  and  butter,  and  stir  the  mixture  into 
the  milk  when  it  begins  to  boil.  Now  add  the  seasoned 
meat,  and  cook  for  two  minutes,  being  careful  to  prevent 
it  from  burning.  At  the  end  of  the  two  minutes  add 
half  the  beaten  eggs.  Stir  rapidly  for  five  seconds, 
and  take  from  the  fire  instantly.  Spread  on  a  flat  dish, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  When  the  mixture  becomes  cool, 
set  it  on  ice,  to  harden;  at  the  same  time  cover  the 
remainder  of  the  beaten  egg,  and  put  it  in  a  cool  place. 
All  this  should  be  done  one  or  two  hours  before  the 
meal  is  to  be  served,  that  the  mixture  may  have  time  to 
get  cold  and  firm. 

When  the  hour  for  cooking  the  croquettes  comes,  form 
the  mixture  into  balls  or  cylinders,  using  about  a  table- 
spoonful  for  each.  Sprinkle  a  board  lightly  with  crumbs, 
and  roll  the  croquettes  into  perfect  shapes  on  it.  Next 
pour  the  beaten  egg  into  a  soup-plate.  Lay  the  cro- 
quettes in  the  plate,  one  at  a  time,  and  with  a  spoon 
dip  up  some  of  the  egg  mixture  and  pour  it  over  each 
croquette.  Lift  the  croquette  by  slipping  a  knife  under 
it,  and  place  it  on  a  thick  bed  of  crumbs.  Roll  it  lightly 
until  every  part  is  covered  with  crumbs;  then  roll  it  to  a 
clean  part  of  the  board.  When  all  are  finished,  make  the 
sauce,  the  receipt  for  which  is  given  on  the  next  page. 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  shallow  cake-pan.  Put  a  thin 
layer  of  the  sauce  in  the  bottom ;  then  lay  the  croquettes 
in  the  pan,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  touch  each 
other.  Baste  them  with  the  sauce,  and  then  put  the  pan 
into  a  very  hot  oven.  Cook  until  brown,  —  say  for  ten 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  the  first  five  minutes  baste 
again  with  the  sauce.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the 
remaining  sauce  poured  around  them. 

If  the  croquettes  are  for  breakfast,  all  the  work 
except  the  baking  may  be  done  the  day  before.  These 
croquettes  may  be  put  into  a  frying-basket  instead  of 

25 


386          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

a  pan,  and  kept  in  boiling  fat  for  a  minute  and  a  half, 
when  they  will  be  found  to  be  perfectly  brown  and  much 
more  creamy  than  when  baked.  But  people  who  do  not 
relish  fried  food,  or  cannot  digest  it  easily,  may  find 
baked  croquettes  very  palatable. 

Brown  Sauce  for  Croquettes.  —  Put  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan  with  one  slice  of  onion,  one 
of  carrot,  one  clove,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Cook  all  together 
until  the  butter  begins  to  turn  brown ;  then  add  one 
table-spoonful  of  dry  flour,  and  stir  until  it  turns  dark 
brown.  Now  draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  one 
generous  cupful  of  stock.  Add  also  a  level  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  for 
five  minutes  j  then  strain,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Aspic  de  Foie  Gras, 

This  should  be  made  in  a  small  round  or  oval  border 
mould,  although  any  mould  will  do.  For  one  of  the 
smallest  jars  of  foie  gras,  use  half  the  rule  for  aspic 
jelly,  one  truffle,  and  the  white  of  one  hard-boiled  egg. 

Place  the  mould  in  a  pan,  and  surround  it  with  ice  and 
a  little  water.  Pour  the  liquid  jelly  into  the  mould  to 
the  depth  of  half  an  inch.  Let  this  stand  until  it 
hardens  ;  then  decorate  it  with  the  white  of  the  egg  and 
the  truffle,  which  have  been  cut  in  thin  slices  and 
stamped  out  with  fancy  vegetable  cutters.  Moisten 
these  with  a  little  liquid  jelly,  and  let  them  stand  about 
ten  minutes,  so  that  the  jelly  may  harden  and  hold  them 
in  place.  Next  gently  pour  in  another  layer  of  jelly, 
about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick ;  let  this  harden. 
Scrape  all  the  fat  from  the  foie  gras,  and  dip  it  for 
half  a  minute  into  hot  water.  Wipe  it  dry,  and  cut 
it  in  slices  and  then  in  pieces  about  an  inch  square. 
Spread  a  layer  of  these  over  the  congealed  jelly  ;  cover 
this  with  liquid  jelly,  and  wait  until  the  jelly  begins  to 
harden  before  adding  the  second  layer  of  foie  gras. 


ENTRIES.  387 


When  the  second  (and  last)  layer  of  foie  gras  has  been 
added,  pour  over  it  enough  jelly  merely  to  moisten  it. 
When  this  is  firm,  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the 
liquid  jelly.  Set  away  in  a  cool  place  for  three  hours, 
or  longer.  At  serving-time  put  the  mould  into  tepid 
water  for  about  five  to  eight  seconds.  Loosen  the  jelly 
at  the  top,  and  see  if  it  will  come  away  from  the  sides. 
Turn  on  a  large  flat  dish.  If  a  border  mould  has  been 
used,  heap  Tartar  green  sauce  in  the  centre.  Garnish 
the  border  of  the  dish  with  stuffed  olives,  This  is  an 
elegant  dish  for  luncheon  or  supper. 

Aspic  of  Chicken. 

Use  half  the  rule  for  the  aspic  jelly,  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  tender  cooked  chicken,  free  of  fat,  skin,  and  bone, 
and  cut  into  dice,  three  slices  of  the  red  part  of  a  carrot, 
cooked,  and  three  of  cooked  beet,  the  white  of  one  hard- 
boiled  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-third  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Prepare  the  mould  as  for  foie  gras,  but  decorate  it 
with  the  carrot,  beet,  and  white  of  the  egg.  When  the 
layer  of  jelly,  which  completely  covers  the  vegetables,  is 
hard,  season  the  chicken  with  the  salt  and  pepper,  and 
arrange  it  on  top  of  the  jelly,  being  careful  to  leave  a 
space  of  about  one-third  of  an  inch  between  the  sides  of 
the  mould  and  the  meat.  With  a  spoon  sprinkle  about 
a  gill  of  the  liquid  jelly  over  the  meat,  and  let  it  stand 
about  half  an  hour  to  harden.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
pour  the  remainder  of  the  jelly  into  the  space  between 
the  sides  of  the  mould  and  the  meat.  Let  this  stand 
several  hours. 

At  serving-time  turn  on  a  flat  dish,  the  same  as  the 
aspic  de  foie  gras.  Fill  the  centre  with  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  crisp  celery,  finely  shaved,  and  mixed  with  three  gills  of 
mayonnaise.  Be  careful  not  to  let  a  drop  fall  upon  the 
aspic.  Garnish  the  border  with  delicate  sprays  of  white 


388          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

celery  leaves.  Lay  a  star  or  leaf  of  red  beet  on  each 
spray.  This  decoration  gives  the  needed  bit  of  color ; 
but  care  must  be  taken  that  the  whole  arrangement  is 
so  light  and  delicate  that  it  gives  an  appearance  of  light- 
ness rather  than  weight  to  the  dish. 

Aspic  of  turkey,  grouse,  or  duck  may  be  prepared  in 
the  same  manner  as  chicken. 

Aspic  of  Sweetbreads. 

Boil  three  large  heart  sweetbreads  in  one  quart  of  con- 
somme for  half  an  hour.  Cool  and  wipe  them.  Then 
proceed  exactly  as  for  aspic  de  foie  gras.  At  serving- 
time  fill  the  centre  of  the  dish  with  the  celery  and  may- 
onnaise, as  for  chicken.  Garnish  the  dish  with  stoned 
olives. 

Aspic  of  Lobster. 

Prepare  this  dish  in  the  same  manner  as  aspic  of 
chicken,  but  use  dice  cut  from  the  pink  meat  of  the 
lobster,  instead  of  the  vegetables,  and  the  white  of  an 
egg  for  the  decorations.  Garnish  the  border  of  the  dish 
with  the  delicate  heart  leaves  of  lettuce.  Place  two 
or  three  leaves  together,  and  put  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
mayonnaise  in  each  group  of  leaves. 

Aspic  of  Shrimp. 

Shrimp  may  be  prepared  and  served  in  aspic  in  the 
same  way  as  lobster. 

*  Batter  for  Fruit  Fritters. 

Use  one  cupful  of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  two 
eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of 
melted  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  yellow 
rind  of  one-fourth  of  a  lemon,  grated. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together.  Beat  the  eggs  light, 
and  add  the  milk  to  them.  Pour  this  on  the  dry  mix- 
ture, beat  well,  and  add  the  melted  butter.  When  con- 


ENTRIES.  389 


venient,  oil  is  much  better  than  butter  in  a  batter, 
because  it  mingles  freely  with  every  part  of  the  mixture. 
Butter  congeals  slightly  unless  the  mixture  is  warm, 
which  is  not  desirable.  This  batter  is  very  good  with 
only  one  egg. 

*  Apple  Fritters. 

Pare  and  core  six  large  apples.  Cut  these  in  round 
slices  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  in 
a  bowl.  Sprinkle  over  these  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  one  fourth  of  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Let  them  stand  for  half  an  hour  or  more.  Four 
table-spoonfuls  of  wine  may  be  substituted  for  the  lemon 
juice,  if  desired. 

Make  the  fruit-fritter  batter.  Dip  the  slices  of  apple 
into  it,  coating  each  slice  thoroughly.  Lift  the  slices  of 
apple  from  the  batter  by  passing  a  fork  or  skewer 
through  the  hole,  drop  them  into  the  hot  fat,  and  cook 
for  three  minutes.  As  soon  as  the  fritters  are  done, 
take  them  from  the  fat  and  drain  them  on  brown  paper. 
Arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  flat  dish,  sift  powdered 
sugar  over  them,  and  serve  very  hot. 

*  Banana  Fritters. 

Pare  six  bananas.  Cut  each  one  in  two,  and  split  each 
half.  Put  the  pieces  of  banana  into  a  bowl  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
orange  juice  or  wine,  and  let  this  preparation  stand  for 
an  hour.  Make  a  batter,  and  cook  the  same  as  apple 
fritters. 

*  Orange  Fritters. 

Pare  the  oranges,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  them 
in  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Take  out  the  seeds, 
dip  the  slices  in  batter,  and  fry.  Drain,  arrange  on  a 
warm  dish,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 


390          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Peach  Fritters. 

Peel  the  peaches,  and  cut  them  in  quarters.  Dip  them 
in  batter,  and  fry.  Serve  hot,  with  sugar  sprinkled  over 
them. 

Apricot  fritters  are  made  in  the  same  way. 

*Pear  Fritters. 

Treat  ripe  pears  the  same  as  apples.  'They  may  be 
cut  in  quarters  or  slices. 

*  Grape  Fritters. 

Have  the  grapes  in  clusters  of  five  or  more,  and  dip 
them  in  batter.  Fry  for  one  minute  and  a  half.  Drain 
them,  and  serve,  sprinkled  with  sugar. 

*  Pineapple  Fritters. 

Pare  and  slice  the  pineapple,  and  cut  the  slices  into 
small  pieces.  Treat  the  same  as  apple  fritters. 

Custard  Fritters. 

For  the  custard  use  one  pint  of  milk,  one  gill  of  sugar, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  eggs,  the  grated 
yellow  rind  of  one  lemon,  one-eighth  of  a  small  nutmeg, 
grated,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  milk.  Mix  the  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful  of 
the  milk.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  the  grated 
lemon  rind  and  nutmeg,  on  the  fire  in  the  double-boiler. 
When  the  milk  is  hot,  add  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs 
well,  and  add  them  to  the  mixed  corn-starch  and  milk. 
Add  the  salt  to  this  mixture,  and  stir  into  the  boiling 
milk.  Cook  six  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Now 
add  the  soaked  gelatine  and  the  butter.  Take  from  the 
fire.  Butter  a  shallow  cake-pan,  and  pour  the  hot  mix- 


ENTRIES.  391 


ture  iiito  it.  It  should  be  nearly  an  inch  deep  when 
spread  in  the  pan.  Place  the  pan  where  the  mixture 
will  get  icy  cold.  When  it  is  time  to  fry  the  fritters, 
beat  two  eggs  in  a  soup-plate,  and  add  to  them  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Cut  the  custard,  which 
will  now  be  firm  and  smooth,  into  two-inch  squares; 
cover  them  with  the  egg  mixture,  and  roll  in  fine  bread 
crumbs.  When  all  are  breaded,  give  them  a  second 
coating  of  egg  and  crumbs.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the 
fry  ing-basket  with  the  fritters,  being  careful  that  they 
shall  not  touch  each  other.  Fry  in  fat  so  hot  that  a 
blue  smoke  will  rise  from  the  centre.  Cook  for  two 
minutes.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  arrange  on  a  napkin, 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Royal  Fritters. 

Use  one  scant  pint  of  sifted  flour,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
one  gill  of  butter,  half  a  gill  of  sugar,  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  one  orange,  and  five  eggs. 

Put  the  water,  butter,  orange  juice  and  rind  on  the 
ire,  in  a  large  saucepan.  Heat  the  mixture  slowly  to  the 
boiling-point.  When  it  boils,  add  the  sugar  and  then  the 
flour,  turning  in  all  the  flour  at  once.  Beat  well  with 
the  wooden  vegetable-masher,  keeping  the  saucepan  on 
the  fire  all  the  while.  At  the  end  of  three  minutes  the 
paste  will  be  cooked  enough.  Turn  it  into  a  bowl,  and 
set  away  to  cool. 

When  cold,  beat  in  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  using  the 
hand  instead  of  a  spoon.  It  will  .take  about  twenty 
minutes  to  beat  the  mixture  light.  Put  a  small  quantity 
of  the  batter  into  a  little  pattie-pan,  and  place  in  a  hot 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  If  it  rises  to  three  or  four 
times  its  original  size,  it  is  beaten  enough ;  but  if  not, 
use  a  spoon,  and  beat  the  mixture  for  ten  minutes  longer. 
Scrape  the  paste  from  the  sides  of  the  dish,  and  gather 


392          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

it  all  in  the  centre  of  the  bowl.  Cover  with  a  damp 
towel,  and  place  in  the  refrigerator  until  it  is  time  to 
cook  it.  Then  drop  it  by  dessert-spoonfuls  into  hot  fat, 
and  cook  ten  minutes.  The  fritters  will  puff  up  and 
crack  open. 

Or  the  paste  may  be  rolled  into  small  balls  and  fried 
in  the  same  manner.  This  will  give  a  round  and  more 
regular  shape  than  dropping  from  the  spoon.  Drain  the 
fritters,  arrange  them  on  a  fringed  napkin,  and  sprinkle 
sugar  over  them. 

Sometimes  a  clear  wine  or  orange  sauce,  or  a  sabayon 
sauce,  is  served  with  these  fritters. 

*  Corn  Fritters. 

These  are  the  necessary  materials :  half  a  can  of 
sweet  corn,  a  cupful  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  fourth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of  salad  oil,  an  egg 
and  half  a  cupful  of  milk. 

Beat  the  egg  light,  and  add  the  milk  to  it.  Pour  the 
mixture  upon  the  flour,  and  beat  well ;  then  add  the  salt, 
pepper,  sugar,  and  oil.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  add  the 
corn.  Drop  the  mixture,  by  table-spoonfuls,  into  boiling 
lard,  and  cook  about  three  minutes.  Drain  on  brown 
paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Noukles  a  la  Viennoise. 

For  the  noukle  paste  there  will  be  required  half  a  pint 
of  consomme",  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  scant  pint  of 
flour,  half  a  cupful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  one-eighth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  three  eggs. 

Put  the  consomme  and  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  large 
stew-pan.  When  the  mixture  boils,  stir  in  the  flour  and 
cayenne,  and  cook  for  about  three  minutes,  beating  all 
the  while.  Add  the  cheese ;  take  from  the  fire,  and  beat 
two  minutes  longer;  turn  into  a  bowl,  and  put  P  way  to 


ENTRIES.  393 


cool.  When  the  paste  is  cool,  beat  the  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  into  it.  Beat  vigorously  for  ten  minutes.  Shape 
the  paste  like  quenelles,  using  about  a  teaspoonful  for 
each  one,  and  lay  these  on  a  buttered  plate.  When  all 
are  done,  put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  consomme  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  when  it  boils,  drop  the  noukles  into  it.  Boil 
for  twelve  minutes,  and  drain. 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan, and  when  it  is  hot,  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  gradually  add 
the  stock  in  which  the  noukles  were  boiled.  Boil  this 
for  five  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Taste,  to  see  if  it 
needs  salt  and  pepper ;  if  it  does,  add  it  now.  Arrange 
the  noukles  in  an  escalop  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over 
them.  Sprinkle  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Parmesan  cheese 
over  the  top.  Put  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  bake 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  very  hot. 

The  noukles  may  be  baked  instead  of  being  poached 
in  consomme.  When  done,  place  them  in  an  escalop 
dish,  and  cover  them  with  any  good  sauce, — Bechamel, 
white,  mushroom,  cream,  and  bisque  sauce  are  all  suit- 
able. Sprinkle  with  cheese  or  not,  as  you  please,  and 
bake  twenty-five  minutes. 

Devils. 

Devils  are  wet  and  dry.  The  dry  devil  is  the  more 
popular.  These  dishes  are  usually  served  at  gentlemen's 
suppers.  They  must  be  cooked  quickly,  and  served  very 
hot.  All  kinds  of  poultry  and  game  may  be  prepared  in 
this  manner,  but  for  the  dry  devil  there  is  nothing  quite 
equal  to  the  underdone  leg  of  a  tender  turkey.  The 
paste  described  in  the  rule  will  give  a  moderately  hot 
dish.  If  liked  very  hot,  use  more  mustard  and  cay- 
enne, or,  if  preferred  mild,  use  less  of  these  condiments. 
Melted  butter  may  be  substituted  for  the  oil  where  there 
is  objection  to  the  use  of  oil. 


394          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Deviled  Turkey  —  Dry. 

For  the  legs  of  a  roast  turkey  use  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  dry  mustard,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
white  pepper,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  soft  butter,  and  a  generous  dredging 
of  flour. 

Mix  the  mustard,  pepper,  salt,  and  oil  together.  Make 
deep  incisions  in  the  turkey  legs,  cutting  in  a  slanting 
direction ;  spread  a  thin  layer  of  the  paste  in  each  inci- 
sion. When  all  the  paste  has  been  used,  rub  the  soft 
butter  over  the  legs,  and  then  dredge  thickly  with  flour. 
Broil  for  ten  minutes  over  clear  coals.  Serve  on  a  hot 
dish  at  once.  Chickens  may  be  deviled  in  the  same 
manner.  Sometimes  both  turkey  and  chickens'  wings 
are  deviled  in  this  manner ;  but  there  is  not  enough  meat 
on  them  to  make  them  a  success  in  a  dry  devil. 

Deviled  Duck  —  Wet. 

Use  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  roast  duck,  free  of 
skin,  bone,  and  fat,  and  cut  into  handsome  pieces,  the 
boiled  liver  of  one  duck,  one  table-spoonful  of  dry  mus- 
tard, one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  generous 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice, 
one  generous  table-spoonful  of  oil  or  butter,  a  slight 
grating  of  nutmeg,  half  a  gill  of  water,  one  gill  of 
Madeira. 

Mash  the  liver  to  a  paste  in  a  saucepan.  Add  the  salt, 
pepper,  mustard,  and  lemon  juice  to  this.  Mix  well,  and 
gradually  add  the  water.  Then  add  the  Madeira  and 
the  duck.  Grate  the  nutmeg  over  this.  Place  the  sauce- 
pan on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  contents  are  hot,  which 
will  be  in  about  six  minutes.  Add  the  butter,  and  stir 
a  moment  longer ;  then  turn  into  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 
instantly.  Serve  a  plate  of  hot  buttered  toast  with  it. 


ENTRIES.  395 


To  get  this  dish  in  perfection  it  should  be  cooked  on  the 
table  in  a  chafing-dish.  In  this  case  prepare  the  devil 
in  the  chafing-dish  instead  of  in  the  saucepan.  Light 
the  lamp  after  all  the  guests  are  seated,  and  the  dish 
will  be  done  to  a  turn  by  the  time  the  toast  has  been 
passed.  Whether  the  dish  is  cooked  on  the  stove  or  in 
the  chafing-dish,  the  heat  must  be  moderate ;  intense 
heat  would  spoil  it. 

Broiled  Cepes. 

Open  the  can,  and  pour  off  the  oil.  It  is  rarely  sweet, 
and  therefore  is  good  only  for  soap-grease.  Take  out 
the  cepes,  and  drop  them  into  a  bowl  of  hot  water  for  a 
moment,  to  remove  the  oil.  Now  wipe  them  with  a  soft 
towel.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  with 
lemon  juice.  Now  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  and  then 
dredge  with  flour.  Broil  for  six  minutes  over  a  hot  fire. 
Place  each  cepe  on  a  round  slice  of  toast.  Put  a  small 
bit  of  butter  in  the  centre  of  each,  and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed   Cepes. 

Free  the  cepes  of  oil,  as  when  broiling  them.  Now 
cut  them  into  cubes.  For  a  pint  can  of  cepes  use  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  of  lemon  juice, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  onion  juice,  a  little 
pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  stock. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  small  stew-pan  and  on  the  fire. 
When  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  cepes,  and  stir  for  three 
minutes.  Now  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  is  browned. 
Add  the  stock,  stirring  all  the  time.  When  this  mix- 
ture boils,  add  the  seasonings,  and  set  back  where  it  will 
simmer  for  five  minutes. 

This  dish  may  be  served  as  an  entree,  when  the  cepes 
should  be  arranged  on  toast ;  or  it  may  be  used  as  a 
garnish  of  broiled  meat  or  fish. 


396         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Olives  Stuffed  with  Chicken. 

Make  a  force-meat  the  same  as  for  chicken  quenelles. 
Stone  two  dozen  queen  olives.  Cover  them  with  cold 
water,  and  let  them  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point. 
Now  pour  off  the  water,  and  cover  the  olives  with  cold 
water.  After  they  have  stood  for  two  minutes  drain 
them  well.  Fill  them  with  the  force-meat.  Place  in  a 
small  saucepan,  and  cover  with  boiling  soup  stock,  —  con- 
somme", if  you  have  it.  Simmer  for  twenty  minutes. 
They  may  be  served  cold,  as  a  relish,  or  hot  or  cold,  as  a 
garnish. 

Olives  Stuffed  with  Anchovy. 

Make  the  rule  for  anchovy  force-meat,  and  proceed  as 
for  olives  stuffed  with  chicken. 


Canapes. 

Canapes  are  served  at  dinners, 
luncheons,  suppers,  and  garden  par- 
ties. They  may  be  served  with 
olives,  making  a  most  delicate  ap- 
petizer. They  are  usually  made  of 
some  kind  of  preserved  fish  and 
thin  strips  of  fried  bread.  They 
should  be  prepared,  arranged,  and 
served  in  the  daintiest  manner. 


Anchovy  Canapds. 

For  twelve  canapes  use  one  bottle  of  anchovies  pre- 
served in  oil,  one  table-spoonful  of  cold  butter,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter,  twelve  strips  of  stale 
bread  cut  three  inches  long,  one  and  a  half  wide,  and 
about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  one  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and 
two  hard-boiled  eggs. 


ENTRIES.  397 


Free  the  anchovies  of  bones.  Put  four  of  them  into 
the  mortar  with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  the  lemon 
juice,  and  the  cayenne,  and  pound  until  a  smooth  paste 
is  formed. 

Fry  the  bread  in  the  clarified  butter  until  it  is  of  a 
golden  brown  color,  and  when  it  is  cool,  spread  it  with 
the  anchovy  paste. 

Cut  the  remainder  of  the  anchovies  into  small  fillets. 
Put  two  fillets  on  each  canape,  having  them  near  the 
edge  of  the  strip  of  bread.  Chop  the  whites  and  yolks 
of  the  hard-boiled  eggs  separately  and  very  fine.  Fill 
the  space  between  the  fillets  with  little  mounds  of  egg, 
alternating  with  whites  and  yolks.  Arrange  the  canapes 
in  the  centre  of  a  flat  dish,  and  garnish  with  a  circle  of 
olives. 

Smoked  Salmon  Canapes. 

Make  an  anchovy  paste  the  same  as  for  anchovy 
canapes.  Fry  and  cool  the  bread,  and  spread  with  the 
paste.  Put  a  thin  shaving  of  smoked  salmon  on  each 
canape. 

Sardine  Canapes. 

These  are  made  the  same  as  anchovy  canapes,  save 
that  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  is  poured  over  the 
fillets  before  they  are  placed  on  the  fried  bread. 

Caviare  Canapes. 

For  ten  canapes  there  will  be  required  ten  strips  of 
fried  bread,  ten  heaping  teaspoonf uls  of  Kussian  caviare, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  and  half  a  salt-spoon- 
ful of  cayenne. 

Put  the  caviare  in  a  soup-plate,  and  break  it  up  with  a 
fork.  Now  add  the  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  mixing  all 
well.  Put  in  a  cold  place  until  serving-time. 

Fry  the  strips  of  bread  in  clarified  butter,  and  drain 
and  cool  them.  Spread  the  caviare  on  these  at  serving- 
time. 


398          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

These  canapes  may  be  served  at  the  beginning  of  a 
dinner  or  after  the  soup  or  fish.  They  are  also  served 
at  gentlemen's  suppers.  In  this  case,  frequently,  the 
caviare,  lemon,  cayenne,  and  fried  bread  are  placed 
before  the  host,  who  breaks  up  the  caviare  and  adds  the 
seasoning  to .  it,  then  spreading  a  little  on  each  strip  of 
bread.  This  is  done  only  at  small  suppers  and  when 
the  host  understands  how  to  do  the  work  quickly  and 
gracefully. 

*  Scotch  Woodcock. 

To  provide  a  quantity  sufficient  for  six  persons  there 
will  be  required  five  hard-boiled  eggs,  one  table-spoonful 
of  anchovy  paste,  a  grain  of  cayenne,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table 
spoonful  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  and  six  smaL 
slices  of  bread. 

Chop  the  eggs  rather  fine.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil. 
Beat  the  flour  and  butter  to  a  cream,  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan ;  and  when  the  milk  begins  to  boil,  pour  it  over  the 
mixture  of  flour  and  butter.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the 
stove,  and  stir  the  contents  until  they  begin  to  boil ;  then 
add  the  other  ingredients,  and  simmer  for  three  minutes. 
During  the  cooking  toast  the  bread,  and  lay  it  on  a  hot 
dish.  Pour  the  hot  mixture  upon  it,  and  serve  without 
delay. 

*  Anchovy  Toast. 

First  open  a  jar  of  anchovy  paste.  Cut  each  of  half  a 
dozen  slices  of  light,  stale  bread  into  three  parts.  Put 
half  a  cupful  of  butter  into  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  let 
it  stand  and  melt  until  sediment  falls  to  the  bottom  of 
the  cup ;  then  pour  the  clear  butter  into  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  let  it  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point.  Put  the 
pieces  of  bread  into  this  butter,  and  brown  them  slightly 
on  both  sides.  Spread  the  paste  on  the  toast,  and  serve 
immediately. 


CHEESE  DISHES.  399 


CHEESE   DISHES. 


*  Cheese  au  Gratin. 

FOR  this  dish  there  should  be  used  as  many  little 
dishes  in  which  eggs  are  baked  as  there  are  persons  to 
be  provided  for.  If  it  be  inconvenient  to  use  egg-dishes, 
take  any  small  fancy  dishes.  The  materials  required 
for  six  persons  are:  four  eggs,  one  cupful  of  grated 
cheese,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  grain  of  cayenne, 
two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  six  tea-spoonfuls 
of  fine  bread  crumbs,  and  half  a  cupful  of  milk. 

First  butter  the  little  dishes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  the  yolks  and  seasoning  to 
them.  When  these  ingredients  are  well  mixed,  add  the 
cheese  and  then  the  milk.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the 
little  dishes,  and  sprinkle  bread  crumbs  lightly  upon 
the  contents  of  each  dish.  Bake  for  eight  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

These  are  suitable  for  a  course  in  a  dinner,  or  for  a 
dish  at  luncheon  or  supper. 

Small  Cheese  Souffles. 

This  is  the  list  of  ingredients  needed :  three  eggs,  one 
cupful  of  soft  mild  cheese,  grated,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  two  level 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  heaping  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  and  half  a  cupful  of  milk. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  gets  melted,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture 


400          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

until  it  is  smooth  and  frothy,  but  do  not  let  it  get 
browned.  Gradually  add  the  milk,  and  boil  for  one 
minute;  then  add  the  seasoning  and  cheese  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  beaten  well.  Pour  into  a  bowl,  and 
set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  turn  the  mixture  into 
six  buttered  paper  cases,  —  small  coverless  boxes  made 
of  stiff  paper.  Place  in  a  shallow  pan,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  twelve  minutes. 

*  Cheese  Fondue. 

When  carefully  made,  this  is  a  most  satisfactory  dish 
for  a  cheese  course  in  a  dinner.  It  is  also  good  for 
luncheon  or  supper.  The  ingredients  are :  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  cheese,  six  eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper,  and  four  slices  of  fried  or  toasted 
oread. 

After  grating  the  cheese,  beat  the  eggs  till  they  are 
light,  and  add  to  them  the  butter,  cheese,  and  seasoning. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  bright  saucepan,  and,  setting 
this  into  another  containing  boiling  water,  stir  until  the 
cheese  is  melted  and  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  creamy. 
Cut  the  bread  into  eight  parts,  and  lay  it  upon  a  hot 
dish.  Pour  the  fondue  over  it,  and  serve  immediately. 

*  Swiss  Ramequin. 

For  six  persons  use  eight  small  slices  of  stale  bread, 
an  egg,  a  cupful  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  mild  soft 
cheese,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  grain  of  cayenne, 
and  two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Beat  the  egg  well,  and  add  three-fourths  of  the  milk 
to  it.  Dip  the  bread  in  this  mixture,  and  let  it  stand  on 
a  plate  long  enough  to  absorb  all  the  milk  and  egg. 
Butter  a  gratin  dish  or  a  platter  with  one  table-spoonful 
of  the  butter,  and  lay  the  bread  upon  it.  Set  the  dish 


CHEESE  DISHES.  401 


where  it  will  keep  cool  until  the  time  for  placing  it  in 
the  oven. 

Cut  the  cheese  into  bits,  and  put  it  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan with  the  salt,  pepper,  and  remainder  of  the  milk 
and  butter.  Set  this  pan  into  another  containing  boiling 
water,  and  place  the  large  pan  on  the  stove.  Stir  the 
contents  of  the  small  basin  occasionally  until  all  are 
melted. 

Meanwhile  put  the  dish  of  soaked  bread  into  the  oven. 
As  soon  as  the  cheese  becomes  melted,  take  the  bread 
from  the  oven,  and  spread  the  hot  mixture  upon  it. 
Return  to  the  oven,  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 
Serve  the  ramequin  the  moment  it  conies  from  the  oven. 
It  is  suitable  for  a  luncheon  or  supper  dish,  as  well  as 
for  a  course  in  a  dinner. 

*  Toasted  Cheese. 

Use  half  a  dozen  slices  of  bread,  half  a  pound  of 
American  soft  cheese,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  cayenne. 

Cut  the  cheese  in  thin  slices, -and  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  the  salt,  pepper,  milk,  and  one  table-spoonful 
of  the  butter.  Place  this  saucepan  in  another  contain- 
ing boiling  water,  and  cook  its  contents  for  about  six 
minutes,  stirring  frequently. 

While  this  mixture  is  cooking,  toast  the  bread  and 
butter  it.  Spread  the  hot  mixture  upon  the  toast,  and 
place  on  a  hot  dish.  Heat  a  small  shovel  until  it  is 
red,  and  hold  it  over  the  dish,  to  brown  the  cheese 
slightly.  Serve  immediately. 

If  one  have  a  salamander,  that  of  course  should  be 
used  instead  of  a  shovel ;  or  if  there  be  a  gas  stove  in 
the  house,  place  the  dish  under  the  broiler,  and  brown 
the  cheese  in  that  way. 

Toasted  cheese  is  a  suitable  dish  for  dinner,  luncheon, 
or  supper. 


402          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Roasted  Cheese. 

This  is  excellent  for  the  cheese  course  in  a  dinner,  and 
is  also  a  good  dish  for  either  luncheon  or  supper.  It  is 
made  of  half  a  dozen  slices  of  bread,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  cheese,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  one-fifth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Break  the  cheese  into  bits.  Put  it  into  a  niortar  with 
the  other  ingredients  (except  the  bread),  and  pound  all  to 
a  smooth  paste.  Toast  the  bread,  and  after  spreading 
it  with  this  mixture,  lay  it  in  a  pan  and  put  into  a  hot 
oven  for  four  minutes.  Serve  at  once. 

Cheese  Puffs. 

These  are  made  of  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four 
of  flour,  four  of  grated  cheese,  one  cupful  of  water,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne, and  two  eggs. 

Put  the  butter  and  water  on  the  stove  in  a  saucepan. 
Mix  the  flour,  cheese,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  stir  the  mix- 
ture into  the  boiling  liquid  in  the  saucepan.  Cook  for 
three  minutes,  beating  all  the  while ;  then  remove  from 
the  fire,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  the  mixture  be- 
comes cold,  add  the  eggs,  unbeaten,  and  only  one  at  a 
time.  Beat  the  batter  very  thoroughly  for  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Butter  a  baking-pan  lightly,  and  drop  the  mixture 
into  it,  using  a  heaping  teaspoonful  for  each  puff.  Leave 
considerable  space  between  them,  as  they  will  increase 
to  about  three  times  their  original  size.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

These  puffs  are  especially  nice  for  the  cheese  course 
in  a  dinner.  Frequently  a  plain  white  sauce  or  a  brown 
sauce  is  served  with  them. 


CHEESE  DISHES.  403 


Cheese  Straws. 

Use  three  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  three 
of  Parmesan  cheese,  one  of  butter,  half  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  the  same  quantity  of  white  pepper,  one-fourth  of 
a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg, 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  milk. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  add  the  milk,  the  yolk, 
and  the  butter,  softened.  Mix  well  with  a  spoon ;  and 
when  the  mass  is  smooth,  divide  it  into  two  parts,  and 
roll  these  very  thin.  Cut  into  narrow  strips  about  three 
inches  long,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

These  are  designed  for  serving,  hot  or  cold,  as  a  cheese 
course,  or  with  lettuce  in  the  salad  course.  They  may 
be  served  in  bunches  of  six  or  eight,  each  bunch  being 
tied  with  a  narrow  ribbon,  or  may  be*  piled  on  a  plate  in 
log-cabin  style. 

*  Golden  Buck. 

This  is  one  kind  of  rare-bit ;  and  though  not  so  popu- 
lar as  the  familiar  Welsh  rare-bit,  it  makes  a  pleasing 
change  for  those  who  are  fond  of  such  dishes. 

Beat  one  egg  in  a  small  saucepan.  Add  to  it^  five 
ounces  of  soft  domestic  cheese,  broken  in  small  bits,  one 
level  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  grain  of  cayenne,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  mus- 
tard, and  five  table-spoonfuls  of  milk.  Toast  five  slices 
of  bread,  and  keep  them  warm.  Put  the  saucepan  con- 
taining the  cheese  mixture  into  another  of  boiling  water, 
and  stir  until  the  cheese  is  almost  creamy.  Set  the  sauce- 
pan where  it  will  keep  warm,  yet  where  its  contents  will 
not  cook  any  more. 

Poach,1  or  "drop,"  ten  eggs  in  boiling  salted  water. 
Spread  the  cheese  mixture  on  the  toast,  and  arrange  on  a 
warm  dish.  Put  two  poached  eggs  on  each  slice  of  toast. 
Serve  at  once. 

1  See  page  408  for  an  explanation  of  poaching. 


404          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Yorkshire  Rare-bit. 

Make  the  cheese  preparation  the  same  as  for  golden 
buck.  Spread  it  on  four  or  five  slices  of  toast.  Lay  a 
slice  of  broiled  bacon  on  top  of  each  slice  of  toast,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Beer  or  ale  may  be  substituted  for  the  milk.  In  that 
case  use  half  a  cupful.  The  cheese  preparation  makes 
a  good  Welsh  rare-bit. 

*  Cottage  Cheese. 

Put  four  quarts  of  sweet  milk  into  a  pan,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  warm  place  long  enough  to  become  sour.  Care 
must  be  exercised  to  prevent  it  from  becoming  too  sour. 
Just  as  soon  as  it  gets  thick  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  In 
summer  this  may  be  at  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours ; 
in  winter,  at  the  end  of  two  or  three  days.  Place  the 
pan  of  sour  milk  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  heat 
;t  almost  to  the  boiling-point.  When  the  pan  has  been 
over  the  water  about  six  minutes,  take  a  large  spoon  and 
turn  the  milk  over  by  spoonfuls,  getting  the  hot  part  on 
top.  When  the  whey  has  become  so  hot  that  it  cannot 
be  touched  with  a  finger,  turn  the  entire  mass  into  a 
colander,  and  let  it  drain  off.  When  it  is  free  of  whey, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
and  press  the  mixture  into  a  dish  of  handsome  shape,  or 
mould  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  hens'  eggs. 

It  improves  the  cheese  to  put  in  four  or  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  with  the  drained  curd,  at  the  time 
tl\e  butter  and  salt  are  added. 

*  Deviled  Biscuit. 

Mix  a  table-spoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese,  one  of  dry 
mustard,  one  of  olive  oil,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  milk,  Spread  the  mixture  lightly  upon  half  a 


CHEESE   DISHES.  405 


dozen   soda-biscuit,  and  toast  over  a  hot  fire.      Serve 
immediately. 

If  objection  be  made  to  the  use  of  oil,  substitute  a 
table-spoonful  of  melted  butter.     Only  a  delicate  flavor 
is  given  to  the  biscuit  by  the  ingredients  named ;  and  if 
a  strong  taste  be  desired,  double  the  quantity  of  mate 
rials  for  the  mixture. 

Cheese  Fingers. 

There  will  be  required  for  these  fingers  some  trim- 
mings of  puff  paste,  one  cupful  of  grated  stale  cheese, 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  and  one  egg. 

Beat  the  egg  well.  Eoll  the  paste  very  thin,  and  cut 
it  into  strips  about  four  inches  long  and  less  than  half 
an  inch  wide.  Mix  the  salt  and  pepper  with  the  cheese. 
Strew  the  strips  of  paste  with  this  mixture.  Double 
the  paste  lengthwise.  Pinch  the  edges,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  for  twelve  minutes.  Wash  over  with  the 
beaten  egg,  and  sprinkle  with  cheese.  Return  to  the 
oven  for  about  two  minutes  —  just  long  enough  to  melt 
the  cheese. 

These  are  served  hot  as  a  cheese  course  in  a  dinner ; 
or  they  may  be  served  with  the  salad. 


406          MISS   PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


DISHES   OF   EGGS. 

THROUGHOUT  the  spring  and  summer  eggs  form  a 
large  part  of  the  fare  at  breakfast  and  luncheon ;  and 
unless  they  be  served  in  a  variety  of  ways,  one  may  get 
tired  of  them.  The  most  healthful  modes  of  preparing 
them  are,  of  course,  those  by  which  they  are  not  sub- 
jected to  a  temperature  higher  than  that  at  which  water 
boils.  If  they  be  covered  with  cold  water,  and  this  be 
heated  to  the  boiling-point  without  being  allowed  to  boil, 
the  eggs  will  be  tender  and  digestible,  —  the  white  yield- 
ing to  pressure  like  thick  cream  if  taken  between  the 
fingers.  The  result  will  be  the  same  when  the  eggs  are 
covered  with  boiling  water  and  set  where  the  water  will 
keep  hot  for  ten  minutes  without  boiling. 

Another  good  mode  of  cooking  is  to  use  an  egg-boiler. 
Put  the  eggs  into  it,  and  after  filling  the  remaining  space 
with  boiling  water,  let  them  stand  for  three  minutes; 
then  pour  off  the  first  water,  and  fill  again  with  boiling 
water,  and  in  seven  minutes  the  eggs  will  be  cooked  as 
nicely  as  by  either  of  the  first  two  methods. 

The  white  of  an  egg  is  pure  albumen ;  and  as  all  albu- 
men is  hardened  by  a  temperature  above  the  boiling- 
point,  we  get  by  the  common  mode  of  boiling  an  egg 
three  or  four  minutes  a  substance  which  is  in  part  very 
indigestible. 

Dropped,  poached,  and  baked  eggs  all  are  good,  and  so 
are  omelets.  Baked  eggs  are  sometimes  called  shirred 
eggs,  or  eggs  sur  le  plat.  Dishes  are  made  expressly  for 
cooking  eggs  in  this  way,  ranging  from  little  ones  that 
will  contain  only  one  egg  to  those  in  which  a  dozen  can 
be  cooked. 


DISHES  OF   EGGS.  407 


A  great  variety  of  flavors  can  be  given  to  baked  eggs. 
After  heating  the  dish,  put  into  it  half  a  teaspoon  ful  of 
butter   for   each   egg  that  is  to  be 
cooked.     Carefully  break  the  eggs 
into  the  dish,  and  place  in  a  rather 
cool  oven  until  the  white  becomes 
"  set."  Serve  in  the  same  dish.  Two 
drops  of  onion  juice  and  a  quarter  Egg-baker 

of  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
will  change  the  flavor  of  the  egg.  Or,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  boiled  ham  may  be  sprinkled  in  the  dish 
before  the  eggs  are  put  in.  Again,  it  gives  a  nice  change 
to  grate  a  little  cheese  into  the  dish  before  doing  the 
cooking. 

*  Boiled   Eggs. 

One  ought  never  to  boil  eggs.  When  they  are  boiled 
for  three  minutes  they  are  called  "  soft  boiled,"  but  the 
fact  is  that  they  are  not  actually  soft  boiled.  A  part  of 
the  white  has  been  made  hard  and  indigestible,  and  the 
rest  of  the  white  and  the  whole  yolk  have  hardly  been 
made  hot.  An  egg  properly  cooked  is  not  boiled ;  it  is 
simply  coddled. 

This  is  the  way  to  cook  eggs  :  Put  six  into  a  vessel 
that  will  hold  two  quarts.  Fill  this  vessel  with  boiling 
water,  and,  after  covering  closely,  let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  for  ten  minutes,  —  the  hearth  is  a  good  place.  By 
this  mode  the  eggs  will  be  cooked  equally  well  in  every 
part,  and  the  white  will  be  soft  and  digestible.  If  one 
desires  them  better  done,  let  them  stand  in  the  hot  water 
ten,  or  even  twenty,  minutes  longer ;  but  do  not  place 
them  on  the  range.  Serve  folded  in  a  napkin. 

*  Poached   Eggs. 

For  six  persons  use  ten  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 


408          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  to  them  the  salt,  pep- 
per, and  milk.  Put  the  butter  in  a  bright  saucepan,  and 
place  on  the  stove.  When  it  becomes  melted,  pour 
the  egg  mixture  into  the  saucepan,  and  set  the  pan  in 
another  containing  boiling  water.  Stir  the  egg  mixture 
until  a  thick,  creamy  mass  is  formed ;  then  take  from 
the  fire  immediately,  and  serve  in  a  warm  dish  without 
delay. 

Poached  eggs  can  be  enjoyed  in  perfection  only  when 
the  whole  mass  is  smooth  and  creamy.  It  is  necessary 
that  there  should  be  a  constant  stirring  during  the 
cooking,  and  that  the  egg  mixture  should  be  turned 
out  of  the  saucepan  the  instant  it  is  done.  About 
eight  minutes  will  be  needed  for  cooking  a  dish  for  six 
persons, 

*  Dropped  or  Poached  Eggs. 

In  New  England  eggs  cooked  in  the  manner  described 
below  are  called  dropped ;  outside  of  New  England  they 
are  called  poached.  The  eggs  must  be  fresh  and  cold. 
Put  a  quart  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  of 
vinegar  in  a -fry ing-pan.  Place  in  the  pan  as  many 
muffin  rings  as  there  are  eggs  to  be  cooked,  and  set  the 
pan  where  the  water  will  bubble  at  one  side  of  the  pan. 
Break  the  eggs  carefully,  and  drop  them  into  the  rings. 
Should  the  yolk  of  an  egg  break  or  seem  soft,  do  not  use 
the  egg.  Cook  until  the  white  is  set ;  then  gently  pour  off 
the  water.  Remove  the  rings,  and  lift  the  eggs  with  an 
egg-slice  or  a  cake-turner.  Place  them  on  slices  of 
buttered  toast,  and  serve  at  once. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  drop  eggs  if  one  have  a  patent 
poacher. 

Egg  Timbales. 

For  six  persons  use  half  a  dozen  eggs,  three  gills  of 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful 


DISHES  OF  EGGS.  409 


of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice. 

Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  them  well  with  a 
fork;  then  add  the  seasoning,  and  beat  for  a  minute 
longer.  Now  add  the  milk,  and  stir  well.  Butter  eight 
timbale  moulds  of  medium  size,  and  pour  the  mixture 
into  them.  Put  the  moulds  in  a  deep  pan,  and  pour  in 
enough  hot  water  to  come  almost  to  the  top  of  the 
moulds.  Place  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  until  firm 
in  the  centre,  —  say  for  about  twenty  minutes  ;  then  turn 
out  on  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  a  cream  or  tomato  sauce 
around  them. 

This  is  a  nice  dish  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  tea. 


*  Griddled  Eggs. 

Heat  the  griddle  almost  as  much  as  for  griddle-cakes. 
Butter  it  lightly,  and  place  upon  it  as  many  eggs  as  you 
desire  to  cook.  When  they  become  slightly  browned, 
turn  them  with  a  cake-turner.  They  will  get  sufficiently 
cooked  in  about  a  minute  and  a  half. 

This  is  a  delicate  way  of  frying  eggs.  If  the  griddle 
be  a  very  smooth  one,  the  buttering  may  be  omitted. 

Lyonnaise  Eggs. 

If  half  a  dozen  eggs  are  to  be  cooked,  use  also  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  of  chopped 
onion,  three  gills  of  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  half  a  cupful  of 
grated  bread  crumbs. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  slowly  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until  the  mixture  becomes 
smooth  and  frothy,  stirring  all  the  while.  Gradually 
add  the  milk,  and  cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  during 
the  first  minute.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  the 
sauce  into  a  deep  plate  that  has  been  heated  for  the  pur- 


410          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

pose.  Carefully  break  the  eggs  into  this  plate,  and  cover 
them  with  the  bread  crumbs.  Place  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven,  and  cook  for  four  minutes.  Serve  the  eggs  in  the 
dish  in  which  they  are  cooked. 

If  a  strong  flavor  of  onion  be  disagreeable,  the  sauce 
may  be  strained  when  it  is  poured  upon  the  heated  plate ; 
the  bits  of  onion  being  thus  kept  back. 

Escaloped  Eggs. 

Put  half  a  dozen  eggs  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
and  keep  the  pan  for  half  an  hour  where  it  will  be  hot, 
yet  not  where  the  water  will  boil.  At  the  end  of  the 
prescribed  time  lay  the  eggs  in  cold  water  for  five  min- 
utes, and  then  remove  their  shells.  Cut  the  whites  into 
thin  slices,  and  rub  the  yolks  through  a  coarse  sieve. 
Mix  both  parts  lightly,  and  after  putting  the  mixture 
into  an  escalop  dish,  pour  over  it  a  sauce  made  as 
follows :  — 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  when  it  has  been  melted,  add  a  heaping  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour.  Stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy ; 
then  gradually  add  a  pint  of  cold  milk.  Boil  up  once, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

After  pouring  this  sauce  over  the  eggs,  spread  a  large 
cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs  on  top  of  the  dish,  and 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

If  care  be  taken  to  prevent  the  eggs  from  boiling  at 
any  time  during  the  thirty  minutes  the  dish  will  be 
delicate  and  digestible. 

*  Curried  Eggs. 

Beside  half  a  dozen  hard-boiled  eggs,  take  a  cupful  of 
stock,  half  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  one  teaspoon ful  of 
chopped  onion,  three  table -spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 


DISHES   OF   EGGS.  411 


After  cooking  the  onion  and  butter  in  a  small  frying- 
pan  for  three  minutes,  put  in  the  flour  and  curry-powder. 
Stir  the  liquid  until  it  becomes  smooth ;  then  add  the 
stock  and  milk  and  some  seasoning,  and  cook  for  ten 
minutes.  Quarter  the  eggs,  and  place  them  in  a  deep 
saucepan.  Strain  the  sauce  over  them ;  and  after  sim- 
mering for  three  minutes,  serve  very  hot  with  toast. 

The  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder  gives  a  delicate  flavor. 
More  may  be  used  if  one  choose. 

Cook  six  eggs  for  twenty  minutes,  as  directed  for  boil- 
ing. While  the  eggs  are  boiling,  prepare  the  sauce. 

Rub  the  bottom  of  a  small  frying-pan  with  a  slice  of 
onion.  Put  one  gill  of  stock  into  the  pan,  and  place  it 
on  the  fire.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder  with  one  gill  of 
milk.  Stir  this  into  the  boiling  stock.  Add  one-third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper.  Simmer  for 
5ve  minutes ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter. 

When  the  eggs  are  cooked,  drop  them  into  cold  water 
for  a  minute.  Remove  the  shells,  and  cut  the  eggs  in 
quarters.  Arrange  them  in  a  warm  dish,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  them. 

This  curry  is  more  delicate  than  the  first. 

*  Baked  Eggs. 

For  six  people  use  eight  eggs,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one 
generous  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  becomes  melted,  put  in  the  flour.  Stir  the  mix- 
ture until  it  is  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  draw  the  pan 
back,  and  gradually  add  the  cold  milk.  Next  add  the 
seasoning ;  and  after  letting  the  sauce  boil  up  once,  pour 
it  into  one  of  those  deep  plates  which  are  made  expressly 


412          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

for  baking  eggs ;  or  if  you  do  not  possess  one,  use  a 
deep  earthen  pie-plate. 

Break  the  eggs  carefully,  and  drop  them  into  the  sauce. 
Sprinkle  the  chopped  parsley  over  the  eggs  and  sauce. 
Place  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  until  the 
whites  become  set, — perhaps  for  five  minutes.  Serve 
the  eggs  immediately  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are 
cooked. 

If  the  parsley  be  not  liked,  it  may  be  omitted ;  and  if 
cheese  be  liked,  a  table-spoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese, 
instead  of  the  parsley,  may  be  sprinkled  over  the  eggs. 


After  buttering  the  bottom  of  an  egg-dish  or  a  soup- 
plate,  break  the  eggs  into  the  plate,  being  careful  not 
to  break  the  yolks.  After  sprinkling  them  lightly  with 
salt  and  pepper,  put  bits  of  butter  over  them,  and  cover 
with  milk  or  cream,  using  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonfui 
of  butter  and  one  table-spoonful  of  milk  or  cream  for 
each  egg.  Put  the  dish  into  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook 
until  the  whites  of  the  eggs  begin  to  set,  —  say  about 
six  minutes.  Serve  at  once,  in  the  dish  in  which  the 
baking  is  done. 

*  Swiss  Eggs. 

To  make  this  dish,  one  must  take  half  a  dozen  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  cheese,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of 
cream,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  teaspoonfui  of 
mustard,  half  a  teaspoonfui  of  salt,  and  one-tenth  of  a 
teaspoonfui  of  cayenne. 

Cut  the  cheese  into  thin  shavings.  Butter  an  egg-dish 
or  a  gratin-dish  (if  you  have  neither,  use  a  small  stone- 
china  platter),  and  spread  the  cheese  in  it.  Upon  the 
cheese  distribute  in  small  portions  the  remainder  of  the 
butter.  Mix  the  salt,  cayenne,  mustard,  and  cream,  and 
pour  half  of  the  mixture  over  the  cheese.  Break  the  eggs 


DISHES  OF  EGGS.  413 


into  the  dish,  and  after  pouring  over  them  the  remaining 
liquid,  place  in  an  oven,  and  cook  for  eight  minutes. 

*  Spanish   Eggs. 

For  this  dish  there  will  be  required  six  eggs,  one  large 
raw  tomato,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one 
level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon ful  of 
pepper,  and  a  slice  of  onion. 

Eub  a  slice  of  onion  over  the  inside  of  a  frying-pan. 
Pare  the  tomato,  and  cut  it  into  bits ;  then  put  it  into 
the  frying-pan,  with  the  butter,  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes, stirring  occasionally.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  five  minutes  put  them  into  the  pan,  with 
the  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  constantly  until  the  eggs 
begin  to  thicken,  like  scrambled  eggs;  then  pour  the 
mixture  into  a  warm  dish,-  and  serve  at  once. 

Spanish  eggs  are  a  good  dish  for  breakfast,  tea,  or 
luncheon. 

*  Cuban  Eggs. 

For  six  persons  use  eight  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of 
minced  onion,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sausage  meat,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Cook  the  sausage  meat  and  onion  together  over  a  hot 
fire  for  five  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  to 
them  the  salt  and  pepper.  Draw  the  pan  back  to  a 
cooler  part  of  the  range,  and  add  the  beaten  eggs.  Stir 
until  the  eggs  become  thick  and  creamy  ;  then  pour  into 
a  warm  dish,  and  serve  immediately. 

Buttered  toast  should  go  with  the  dish.  It  may  be 
arranged  on  a  flat  dish,  and  the  eggs  be  poured  over  it. 

Eggs  in  Force-meat. 

Take  for  six  persons  four  eggs,  a  cupful  of  grated  bread 
crumbs,  a  eupful  of  any  kind  of  fine-chopped  cold  meat, 


414         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

three  gills  of  soup  stock,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  slice  of  onion, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  clove,  a  bay  leaf,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Boil  the  eggs  hard ;  then  remove  the  shells,  and  cut 
the  eggs  in  two.  Eub  the  yolks  through  a  sieve  or  coarse 
strainer.  Rub  the  flour  and  butter  together ;  and  after 
adding  the  stock  and  seasoning,  cook  gently  for  twelve 
minutes.  Mix  the  bread  crumbs  and  chopped  meat ;  and 
when  the  sauce  has  cooked  for  twelve  minutes,  strain  it 
upon  this  mixture.  Fill  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  this 
mixture,  and  spread  the  remainder  on  a  gratin-dish  or 
a  small  platter.  Stand  the  filled  eggs  in  this  bed  of 
force-meat,  and  decorate  both  them  and  the  bed  with 
little  mounds  of  the  sifted  yolks.  Put  the  dish  into  a 
moderate  oven  for  eight  minutes ;  then  remove  it,  and 
pour  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  upon  the  dish,  or 
serve  the  sauce  in  a  separate  dish.  Bechamel  sauce 
or  a  simple  brown  sauce  may  be  used,  if  preferred  to 
tomato. 

This  is  a  nice  dish  for  luncheon. 

*  Eggs  au  Gratin. 

The  materials  needed  to  provide  a  dish  for  six  persons 
are :  half  a  dozen  eggs,  as  many  small  slices  of  bread, 
a  pint  of  cream  sauce,  a  cupful  of  bread  crumbs,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

Put  the  eggs  into  a  deep  saucepan,  and  cover  them 
with  boiling  water.  Cover  the  pan,  and  set  it  on  the 
stove  where  the  water  will  keep  warm  for  twenty  minutes 
without  any  likelihood  of  its  boiling. 

Make  a  sauce  the  same  as  for  eggs  farce.  Toast  the 
bread  to  a  delicate  brown.  Put  the  butter  on  the  stove 
in  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot,  put  in  the 
crumbs.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  they  get  brown  and 
crisp ;  then  remove  the  pan. 


DISHES  OF  EGGS.  415 

Transfer  the  eggs  from  hot  to  cold  water  at  the  end 
of  the  twenty  minutes,  and  in  a  moment  remove  the 
shells.  Put  the  slices  of  toast  on  a  gratin-dish  or  on  a 
stone-china  platter,  and  place  a  whole  egg  on  each  slice 
of  toast.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  eggs,  and  sprinkle 
with  the  fried  crumbs.  Set  in  a  moderate  oven  for  six 
minutes,  and  serve  without  change  of  dish,  adding  a 
delicate  garnish  of  parsley. 

*  Egg  Nests  on  Toast. 

For  six  nests  use  half  a  dozen  eggs,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  butter, 
and  six  small  slices  of  toast.  Separate  the  two  parts 
of  the  eggs,  putting  the  whites  into  a  bowl  and  keep- 
ing the  yolks  whole  by  letting  them  remain  in  the  half- 
shells  until  the  time  comes  for  using  them.  Put  the 
salt  with  the  whites,  and  beat  until  a  stiff  froth  is 
formed.  Toast  the  bread ;  and  after  dipping  the  edges 
in  hot  water,  spread  the  slices  with  butter,  and  place 
them  on  a  tin  sheet  or  pan.  Heap  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  on  the  toast.  Make  a  depression  in  the  centre  of 
each  mound,  and  after  putting  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter  in  each  depression,  drop  the  whole  yolks 
into  the  hollows.  Place  the  nests  in  a  moderate  oven, 
and  cook  for  three  minutes.  Serve  immediately  on  a 
warm  dish. 

If  ham  be  liked,  a  spoonful  of  it,  chopped  fine,  may 
be  spread  on  each  slice  of  toast  before  the  white  of  an 
egg  is  placed  on  it. 

Eggs  Farc6. 

Use  for  six  persons  half  a  dozen  eggs,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour,  three  of  butter,  one  pint  of  milk,  three  drops 
of  onion  juice,  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

Boil  the  eggs  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  drop  them 
into  cold  water.  Remove  the  shells,  and  after  cutting  an 


416          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

even  slice  from  each  end  of  the  egg,  cut  the  eggs  in  two. 
Take  out  the  yolks,  and  mash  them  until  light  and 
smooth ;  then  add  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
four  of  milk,  and  the  onion  juice.  When  these  in- 
gredients have  been  well  mixed,  heap  the  mixture  in 
the  shape  of  domes  in  the  halves  of  the  whites.  Set 
the  whites  in  a  tin  plate  or  pan,  and  put  them  into  the 
oven  for  six  minutes. 

During  this  cooking  make  a  sauce.  Put  the  remain- 
ing table-spoonful  of  butter  into'  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  gets  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and 
frothy,  being  careful  not  to  brown ;  then  gradually  add 
the  milk.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  up 
once. 

When  the  eggs  have  been  cooked  sufficiently,  arrange 
•shem  on  a  warm  dish,  pour  the  sauce  around  them,  and 
garnish  with  parsley. 

Bechamel,  tomato,  or  curry  sauce  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  cream  sauce  recommended. 


*  Eggs  in  Cases. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  persons,  use  half  a 
dozen  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one-third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
fine  dry  bread  crumbs,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  You  will  also  need 
half  a  dozen  paper  cases.  In  large  cities  these  may  be 
bought,  in  a  variety  of  shapes,  of  first-class  confectioners ; 
but  it  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to  make  them  if  they  can- 
not easily  be  obtained.  They  should  be  formed  of  stiff 
white  paper,  and  have  a  length  of  about  three  inches, 
a  width  of  two  inches,  and  a  depth  of  an  inch  and  a 
half. 

Butter  the  cases,  using  a  little  extra  butter  for  the 
purpose.  Put  two-thirds  of  the  table-spoonful  of  butter 


DISHES  OF  EGGS.  417 

into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot,  stir  in  the 
crumbs.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the  crumbs  get  brown 
and  crisp,  being  careful  not  to  let  them  become  scorched ; 
then  take  from  the  fire,  and  add  to  them  the  salt  and 
pepper  and  the  chopped  parsley.  Deposit  this  mixture 
in  equal  parts  in  the  six  paper  cases.  Break  an  egg. into 
each  case,  and  put  the  remaining  butter,  broken  into  bits, 
upon  the  eggs.  Set  the  cases  in  a  tin  pan,  and  bake  for 
five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  on  a  fringed 
napkin. 

Small  china  souffle*  dishes  may  be  used  for  these  eggs. 

OMELETS. 

In  no  form  in  which  eggs  are  cooked  are  they  more 
acceptable  than  in  an  omelet.  Nothing  can  be  simpler 
than  the  preparation  of  an  omelet  when  all  the  condi- 
tions are  right,  yet  few  succeed  in  cooking  this  simple 
dish  to  perfection.  There  must  be  a  very  hot  fire ;  and  a 
smooth,  light  pan,  with  a  long  handle,  also  is  required. 
The  eggs  should  be  beaten  only  enough  to  break  them 
well ;  there  should  never  be  much  froth.  If  the  eggs  be 
beaten  light,  the  omelet  will  be  dry  and  tasteless.  A 
perfect  omelet  usually  is  soft  and  creamy.  There  are  a 
few  exceptions  to  this  rule :  rum,  jelly,  or  fruit  omelets 
should  be  made  rather  light. 

One  of  the  first  things  the  beginner  should  learn  is 
how  to  shake  the  pan.  Here  is  a  good  way  to  learn. 
Spread  a  newspaper  on  the  kitchen  table.  Put ;  couple 
of  spoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar  in  the  omelet  pai.  and 
place  the  pan  on  the  paper.  Now  take  hold  of  the  pan, 
putting  the  hand  under  the  handle,  and  shake  vigorously. 
The  motion  must  be  quick  and  nervous,  and  such  that 
the  sugar  in  the  pan  will  be  thrown  up  from  the  bottom 
of  the  pan.  It  is  the  same  motion  that  one  uses  in 
popping  corn,  being  almost  wholly  from  the  wrist.  A 
little  practice  is  all  that  is  needed  to  acquire  it ;  and  one 

27 


418          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

cannot  make  a  perfect  omelet  without  this  motion.  Per- 
sist until  the  sugar  is  thrown  from  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  with  every  shake. 

Having  mastered  the  motion,  the  next  thing  to  do  is 
to  see  that  the  pan  is  all  right.     It  must  be  perfectly 


Rolling  an  Omelet. 

smooth.  If  not  so,  scour  it  with  Sapolio,  wash  in  hot 
water,  and  rub  it  smooth  and  dry  with  a  soft  towel. 
Put  the  butter  in  the  pan,  and  place  on  the  fire  where  it 
will  heat  gradually.  When  quite  warm,  place  on  the 
hottest  part  of  the  stove.  Pour  the  egg  mixture  into 
the  pan,  and  shake  until  the  whole  mass  is  about  as 
thick  as  soft  custard.  The  egg  mixture  should  be  thrown 


DISHES  OF  EGGS. 


419 


from  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  every  shake.     Let  the 

pan  rest  for  about   five   seconds ;  then   place   the  left 

hand  under  the  handle,  and  tip  the  pan  forward.    With  a 

knife,  roll  the  omelet  in  the  same  direction.     Let  it  rest 

on  the  fire  for  about 

fifteen  seconds. 
Take  a  warm  dish 

in    the    left    hand. 

Put  the  right  hand 

under  the  handle  of 

the  omelet  pan,  and 

place  the  edge  of  the 

pan   nearly    in    the 

centre  of  the  dish. 

Turn  out  the  omelet 

in  the  centre  of  the 

dish,   and  serve   at 

once.     It  may  take 

many   trials   before 

the  beginner  makes 

a  success  of  an  ome- 
let, but  the  success 

will  come.    A  small 

pan,  and  two  eggs  at 

a  time,  will  do  for 

practice. 

Many  failures  come  from  having  too  much  egg  in  the 

pan.     When  this  is  the  case,  one  part  becomes  hard 

before  the  other 
is  warmed.  The 
egg  mixture 
should  be  not 
more  than  half 

an  inch  deep  in 
The  Omelet  when  Finished.  . ,  .,  .  , 

the  pan ;  it  is  bet- 
ter to  have  it  even  less.  All  the  work  must  be  done 
very  rapidly.  It  should  be  not  more  than  two  minutes 


How  to  Turn  out  an  Omelet. 


420          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

from  the  time  the  eggs  are  poured  into  the  hot  pan 
until  the  omelet  is  on  its  way  to  the  table. 

It  would  be  better  to  have  any  guests  wait  for  two 
minutes  for  a  perfect  omelet  than  to  have  the  omelet 
done  a  minute  before  it  is  served,  and  better  to  send 
several  small  omelets  to  the  table  than  to  make  only 
one,  and  have  that  large. 

Make  yourself  familiar  with  a  receipt  at  the  start,  so 
that  there  will  be  no  delay  at  any  stage  of  the  work  or 
in  the  serving. 

*  Plain  Omelet. 

Beat  four  eggs  until  well  broken,  but  not  until  very 
light.  Add  to  them  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk  or  water.  Put  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter  in  the  omelet  pan,  ancl  place  the  pan  where  it 
will  heat  slowly.  When  it  becomes  hot,  draw  it  forward 
where  the  heat  is  intense.  Pour  in  the  egg  mixture,  and 
shake  vigorously  until  the  egg  begins  to  thicken.  Let 
the  pan  rest  on  the  stove  for  about  five  seconds ;  then 
roll  up  the  omelet.  When  rolled,  brown  it.  It  will  take 
about  fifteen  seconds  for  this.  Turn  out,  and  serve  at 
once. 

*  Baked  Omelet. 

For  six  persons  use  half  a  dozen  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  one  large  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
generous  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Mix  the  milk  and  flour.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  the  salt  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to 
them,  and  beat  for  half  a  minute  longer.  Now  put  the 
butter  in  a  hot  frying-pan.  Add  the  milk  and  flour  and 
baking-powder  to  the  eggs,  and  stir  quickly.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  the  buttered  pan,  and  put  the  pan  in  a  rather 
hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  fold 


DISHES  OF   EGGS.  421 

the  omelet  and  turn  it  out  on  a  warm  dish.     Serve  with- 
out a  moment's  delay. 

Beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  the 
yolks  well,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter 
of  a  cupful  of  milk.  Stir  well,  and  then  add  the  beaten 
whites.  Put  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a  hot  frying- 
pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  has  become  melted,  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  the  pan.  Place  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake 
for  six  minutes;  then  remove,  and  after  folding,  turn 
out  on  a  hot  dish.  Serve  immediately. 


A  variation  is  to  spread  over  the  omelet,  just  before 
folding,  a  pint  of  chicken  warmed  in  a  pint  of  cream 
sauce,  or  any  kind  of  meat  or  fish,  cut  fine  and  heated 
in  sauce.  Or,  heat  a  pint  of  oysters  to  the  boiling-point 
in  their  own  liquor.  Skim  carefully,  and  then  stir  in 
with  them  a  large  table-spoonful  of  butter  mixed  with  a 
level  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  after  boiling  up  once,  spread  over  the  omelet. 

Green-Pea  Omelet. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  persons,  use  four 
eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  of  cream  or 
three  of  milk,  two  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  half  a  pint  of  green 
or  canned  peas. 

Kinse  and  drain  the  peas.  Put  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter  into  a  small  stew-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  melted, 
add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  is  smooth  and 
frothy ;  then  add  the  peas,  sugar,  pepper,  and  half  the 
salt.  Stir  for  two  minutes,  and  after  adding  the  cream 
or  milk,  set  the  pan  where  its  contents  will  simmer  for 
six  minutes. 


422          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Meanwhile  heat  an  omelet  pan,  and  wipe  it  perfectly 
clean  and  dry,  rubbing  the  inside  with  a  dry  towel  until 
it  is  very  smooth.  Set  this  pan  on  the  back  part  of  the 
range  where  it  will  keep  rather  hot  while  the  eggs  are 
being  beaten. 

Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  them  well,  though 
not  to  a  dry  froth.  Add  the  water  and  the  remainder  of 
the  salt.  Put  the  butter  into  the  omelet  pan,  and  set 
the  pan  on  the  hottest  part  of  the  range.  When  all  the 
butter  has  become  melted  and  is  just  about  to  turn  in 
color,  put  the  eggs  into  the  pan.  Shake  vigorously  until 
the  mixture  begins  to  look  thick  and  creamy.  Let  the 
pan  remain  still  for  two  seconds,  —  as  nearly  as  it  can  be 
estimated,  —  and  then  spread  the  peas  over  the  egg.  Tip 
the  pan  forward  from  the  handle,  and  roll  the  omelet  in 
the  same  direction.  Turn  out  on  a  warm  dish,  and  serve 
immediately. 

Asparagus  may  be  used  in  an  omelet  the  same  as  peas. 
Only  the  green  heads  should  be  taken,  and  they  should 
be  boiled,  drained,  and  seasoned. 


Fish  Omelet. 

This  is  a  very  savory  dish.  The  materials  used  are  : 
six  large  smelts,  four  eggs,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk, 
two  table-spoonfuls  and  a  half  of  butter,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  chopped  chives,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  pep- 
per. If  it  be  inconvenient  to  use  chives,  substitute  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion ;  and  if  smelts  cannot  be 
had,  take  any  other  delicate  kind  of  fish  containing  roe, 
—  flounders,  or  any  pan  fish.  There  should  be  about  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  clear  fish. 

Free  the  flesh  of  the  smelts  of  skin  and  bones,  and  cut 
it,  together  with  the  roe,  into  fine  pieces.  Put  a  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan  or 
stew-pan,  and  when  it  has  become  melted,  add  the  fish, 


DISHES  OF  EGGS.  423 


chives,  parsley,  three-fourths  of  the  salt,  and  all  the 
pepper.  Cook  slowly  for  five  minutes,  and  then  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk.  Let  the  mixture  boil  up 
once,  and  set  it  back  where  it  will  keep  warm  until 
needed. 

Beat  the  four  eggs  till  rather  light,  and  add  the  re- 
mainder of  the  milk  and  salt.  Put  the  remaining  butter 
into  a  large  omelet-pan  or  frying-pan ;  and  as  soon  as  it 
becomes  very  hot,  —  a  moment's  heating  should  suffice,  — 
pour  in  the  egg  mixture.  Shake  vigorously  over  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken  ;  then  spread  the  fish 
upon  it.  Roll  up  the  omelet,  and,  turning  out  on  a  hot 
dish,  serve  immediately. 

From  the  time  of  putting  the  eggs  into  the  pan  until 
the  omelet  is  finished,  the  work  must  be  done  very 
rapidly. 

Mushroom  Omelet. 

To  those  persons  who  like  omelets  of  any  sort,  and  are 
fond  of  the  peculiar  flavor  of  mushrooms,  this  dish  should 
give  much  satisfaction.  It  is  made  of  four  eggs,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  a  generous  half-table-spoonful  of  flour,  two- 
thirds  of  a  cupful  of  stock,  a  little  water,  and  enough 
pepper  and  salt  for  seasoning  to  suit  the  taste  of  the 
maker. 

Put  a  table-spoonful  of  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir 
until  smooth  and  brown.  Gradually  add  the  stock ;  and 
after  boiling  up  once,  add  the  mushrooms.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes. 

Beat  the  eggs  till  rather  light,  and  add  to  them  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  table-spoonful  of  water.  Put 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a  warm  omelet-pan,  and 
set  in  a  hot  place.  As  soon  as  the  butter  becomes  very 
hot,  put  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and  shake  vigorously  until 
they  begin  to  thicken.  Spread  the  mushrooms  and  about 


424          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

half  of  the  sauce  upon  the  mixture,  and  then  fold  the 
omelet,  and  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  the  remainder 
of  the  sauce  around  it,  and  serve  immediately. 

Not  more  than  a  minute  and  a  half  should  be  consumed 
in  work  from  the  time  of  pouring  the  eggs  into  the  pan 
until  the  omelet  is  finished. 

Tomato  Omelet. 

Put  a  pint  of  canned  or  stewed  tomato  into  an  open 
stew-pan,  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Beat  six  eggs  well,  and  add  to  them  a  level  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Put  a  gener- 
ous table-spoonful  of  butter  into  a  large  omelet-pan  or 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  white  and  frothy,  pour 
the  eggs  into  it.  Shake  over  a  very  hot  fire  until  the 
eggs  begin  to  thicken  and  look  creamy  ;  then  pour  in 
the  hot  tomato,  spreading  it  over  the  middle  of  the 
omelet.  Eoll  up  quickly,  and  after  browning  for  an  in- 
stant, turn  out  on  a  warm  dish  and  serve  immediately. 


First  make  the  egg  preparation,  as  for  the  green-pea 
omelet,  but  do  not  cook  it.  Next  put  a  cupful  of  canned 
tomatoes  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Put 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  when  it  gets  hot,  add  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until  smooth  and  frothy  ;  then 
add  it  to  the  tomatoes,  and  also  add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  one-fifth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 
Now  cook  the  eggs  until  thick  and  creamy.  Spread  the 
tomato  over  the  cooked  egg ;  then  roll  up,  and  serve  at 
once.  These  omelets  are  nice  for  breakfast  or  luncheon. 


Oysters,  cheese,  chicken,  ham,  and,  indeed,  nearly  all 
kinds  of  meat  and  fish,  may  be  used  in  the  same  way  a^ 


DISHES   OF   EGGS. 


425 


tomato.  When  meat  or  fish  is  used  it  should  first  be 
heated  in  a  little  sauce.  Cheese  is  simply  grated  and 
sprinkled  over  the  omelet  just  before  the  rolling. 


Jelly  Omelet. 

Use  half  a  dozen  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  a 
table-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  half  a  tumbler  of 
any  kind  of  jelly,  —  currant  is  best. 

Break  up  the  jelly,  so  that  it  can  be  spread  easily. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  very  light ;  then  add 
the  unbeaten  yolks,  the  sugar  and  salt.  After  blending 
these  ingredients,  add  the  water.  Heat  a  large  frying- 
pan,  and  after  melting  the  butter  in  it,  pour  in  the  egg 
mixture.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  six  minutes;  then 
spread  with  the  jelly,  roll  up,  and  turn  out  upon  a  warm 
dish.  Serve  immediately. 


426          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


SALADS. 

SALADS  are  made  with  any  kind  of  fish  and  meat,  com- 
bined with  various  green  vegetables;  or  they  may  be 
made  of  a  single  vegetable  with  a  sauce.  Several  vege- 
tables may  be  combined,  and  dressed  with  a  simple  sauce 
or  a  Mayonnaise  sauce;  or  cooked  vegetables  may  be 
served,  alone  or  in  combination,  using  a  simple  dressing 
or  a  Mayonnaise.  The  important  things  to  remember 
in  salad-making  are  that  the  materials  should  be  of  the 
best  quality,  the  green  vegetables  crisp  and  fresh,  the 
meat  or  fish  well  seasoned  and  cold,  the  oil  pure  and 
sweet,  and  that  in  most  cases  the  dressing  should  be  added 
at  the  last  moment. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  salad-dressing.  The  Mayon- 
naise is  the  cream  of  all  yet  invented.  Even  people  who 
dislike  oil,  as  a  rule,  find  this  by  far  the  most  delicate 
dressing  made.  Some  cooks  think  that  a  Mayonnaise 
is  ruined  if  there  be  mustard  and  sugar  in  it.  Others 
condemn  the  use  of  cream.  These  are  matters  of  taste, 
and  individuals  have  a  perfect  right  to  exercise  their 
own  judgment  in  the  matter.  One  cupful  of  whipped 
cream  added  to  one  pint  of  Mayonnaise  will  so  tone  the 
flavor  of  the  oil  that  people  who  cannot  eat  a  salad  when 
made  with  the  ordinary  Mayonnaise  will  enjoy  it  when 
this  slight  addition  is  made.  Again,  some  persons  use 
no  acid  but  lemon  juice,  whereas  others  would  not  have 
a  drop  of  lemon  juice  mixed  with  a  Mayonnaise.  It 
seems  as  if  at  least  one-half  of  the  salad-eating  people 
in  America  do  not  like  the  taste  of  oil.  If  they  choose 
to  tone  it  down  with  cream  there  is  no  law  against  it. 


SALADS.  427 


A  rule  for  cream-dressing  is  given  on  page  428  for  the 
benefit  of  those  who  will  not  use  oil. 

The  simple  French  dressing  which  is  used  with  so  many 
vegetable  salads  is,  like  the  Mayonnaise,  subject  to  modi- 
fications to  suit  various  tastes.  The  proportions  may 
be  six  table-spoonfuls  of  oil  to  one  of  vinegar ;  or  the 
quantity  of  vinegar  may  be  twice  that  of  oil.  A  good 
rule  is  to  take  six  table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  two  of  vinegar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 
Mix  the  oil,  salt,  and  pepper  together;  then  add  the 
vinegar. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing. 

For  one  pint  of  dressing  use  three  gills  of  oil,  the 
yolks  of  two  uncooked  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice,  two  of  vinegar,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne, and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  thick  sweet  cream. 

In  order  to  succeed  in  making  a  Mayonnaise  dressing, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  all  the  materials  cold.  Let  the 
oil  stand  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour  or  more  before 
using  it.  Set  a  small  smooth-bottomed  bowl  in  a  shallow 
dish,  and  put  a  few  pieces  of  ice  and  a  pint  of  cold  water 
in  this  dish.  Put  the  dry  ingredients  and  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  in  the  bowl,  and  beat  them  with  the  Dover- 
beater  until  the  mixture  is  light  and  thick.  TSTow  begin 
to  add  the  oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time.  Each  time  the  oil 
is  added,  beat  until  it  is  thoroughly  blended  with  the 
other  ingredients.  As  soon  as  the  mixture  becomes 
thick  and  ropy  the  oil  may  be  added  more  freely.  Begin- 
ning at  this  stage,  the  vinegar  may  be  added,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  at  a  time.  When  the  dressing  gets  so  thick 
that  the  beater  will  hardly  turn,  the  oil  may  be  added 
in  larger  quantities,  —  about  a  table-spoonful  at  a  time. 
As  soon  as  all  the  vinegar  has  been  added,  begin  to 
add  the  lemon  juice  in  the  same  manner.  When  the 
dressing  is  light  and  smooth,  whip  the  cream  with  a 


428          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fork,  and  stir  it  into  the  dressing.  Where  the  taste  of 
oil  is  liked  the  cream  may  be  omitted ;  the  cream  tones 
down  the  flavor  of  oil.  On  the  other  hand,  when  oil  is 
not  liked,  less  of  it  may  be  used,  thick  whipped  cream 
being  substituted.  For  most  tastes,  however,  the  dress- 
ing as  it  is  given  will  be  found  satisfactory. 

*  Cream  Salad   Dressing. 

Use  one  pint  of  rich  cream,  the  yolks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  of  salt,  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  teaspoonful  of 
mustard,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Rub  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  smooth  paste.  Gradually  add  to 
them  the  salt,  sugar,  vinegar,  and  mustard.  Have  the 
cream  very  cold,  and  whip  it  until  smooth  and  light. 
Use  the  Dover-beater  or  a  whisk.  Stir  this,  a  spoonful 
at  a  time,  into  the  egg  mixture.  Use  this  dressing  the 
same  as  Mayonnaise. 

*  Cooked  Salad  Dressing. 

This  is  made  of  four  eggs,  eight  table-spoonfuls  of 
weak  vinegar,  four  of  oil,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  mixed  mustard. 

Put  the  oil  and  vinegar  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  set 
this  pan  into  another  containing  boiling  water.  Beat 
the  eggs  well,  and  pour  the  hot  oil  and  vinegar  upon 
them,  stirring  all  the  while.  Turn  the  mixture  into  the 
stew-pan,  and  set  the  pan  in  the  boiling  water  once  more. 
Stir  the  dressing  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  —  say  for 
about  five  minutes ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  add 
the  salt,  pepper,  and  mustard.  If  the  dressing  should 
not  be  smooth,  rub  it  through  a  strainer ;  but  if  it  has 
been  stirred  constantly,  there  will  be  no  occasion  for 
straining. 

This  dressing  will  keep  for  weeks.  Butter  may  be 
substituted  for  oil,  but  it  is  not  BO  good. 


SALADS.  429 


Chicken  Salad. 

Free  cold  cooked  chicken  of  skin,  fat,  and  bones,  and 
cut  it  in  cubes.  Put  one  quart  of  the  meat  in  a  bowl 
with  a  marinade  made  by  mixing  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  one  of  oil,  one  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Stir  well,  and  place 
in  the  refrigerator  for  one  hour  or  longer. 

Cut  in  thin  slices  enough  of  the  white,  tender  part  of 
celery  to  make  a  generous  pint.  Wash  this  in  cold 
water,  and  put  it  in  the  refrigerator  with  pieces  of  ice 
on  top.  At  serving-time  remove  the  ice,  and  drain  all 
the  water  from  the  celery.  Mix  the  celery  with  the 
chicken,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  dressing. 
Arrange  the  salad  in  a  bowl  or  on  a  flat  dish.  Mask  it 
with  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise,  and  garnish  with  some 
of  the  blanched  celery  leaves. 

Sweetbread  Salad. 

For  six  persons  use  a  pair  of  large  sweetbreads,  half  a 
pint  of  celery,  sliced  thin,  six  heart  leaves  of  lettuce, 
half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise,  one  table-spoonful  of  vinegar, 
half  a  table-spoonful  of  oil,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one-third  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

Clean  the  sweetbreads,  and  boil  them  in  water  for 
twenty  minutes ;  then  cool  them,  and  cut  them  into 
cubes.  Add  the  vinegar,  oil,  salt,  and  pepper.  Place 
the  dish  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour.  Prepare  the 
lettuce  and  celery,  and  put  them  in  the  refrigerator  to 
chill. 

At  serving-time  mix  the  celery  and  sweetbreads,  and 
add  half  the  dressing.  Arrange  the  six  lettuce  leaves  in 
a  flat  dish.  Divide  the  sweetbread  mixture  into  six 
parts,  and  place  it  on  the  lettuce  leaves.  Drop  the  re- 
mainder of  the  dressing  in  teaspoonfuls  on  the  sweet- 
breads. Serve  at  once. 


430          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Lobster  Salad. 

Cut  into  cubes  enough  boiled  lobster  to  make  a 
quart.  Put  it  into  a  bowl,  and  mix  with  it  a  marinade 
made  by  mixing  three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one 
of  oil,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper.  Put  the  bowl  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour 
or  more. 

Wash  the  heart  leaves  of  four  heads  of  lettuce.  Place 
them  in  a  dish,  and  sprinkle  with  cracked  ice. 

At  serving-time  stir  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  into 
the  dish  of  lobster.  Shake  the  ice  and  water  from  the 
lettuce.  Place  two  leaves  together  in  the  form  of  a  shell, 
and  arrange  them  on  a  flat  dish.  Put  a  table-spoonful 
of  lobster  in  each  shell,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  dressing  on 
top  of  the  lobster. 

Oyster  Salad. 

For  a  two-pound  can  or  a  solid  quart  of  oysters  use 
dressing  made  as  follows  :  Beat  well  four  eggs.  Add  to 
them  a  gill  each  of  cream  and  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
mustard,  one  of  celery  seed,  one  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter. Place  in  the  double-boiler,  and  cook  until  as  thick 
as  soft  custard.  It  will  take  about  five  or  six  minutes. 
The  dressing  must  be  stirred  from  the  time  it  is  put 
on  the  fire  until  it  is  taken  off;  and  when  that  time 
comes,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  and  sifted 
crackers. 

Heat  the  oysters  to  the  boiling-point,  in  their  own 
liquor.  Drain  them,  and  add  the  dressing.  Stir  lightly, 
and  set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  or  more. 

The  cracker  and  celery  seed  may  be  omitted,  and  at 
serving-time  a  pint  of  celery,  sliced  thin,  may  be 
added. 


SALADS.  431 


Shrimp  Salad. 

For  this  salad  there  will  be  required  a  can  of  shrimps, 
the  heart  leaves  of  four  small  heads  of  lettuce,  and  a 
generous  half-pint  of  Mayonnaise  dressing. 

Remove  the  shrimps  from  the  can  to  a  large  bowl  full 
of  ice-water,  and  after  rinsing  them,  drain  off  all  the 
water.  Place  the  shrimps  in  another  bowl,  and  after 
sprinkling  upon  them  a  marinade  made  of  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  oil,  two  of  vinegar,  half  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  let  them  stand  in 
the  ice-chest  for  two  hours. 

Arrange  the  leaves  of  lettuce  in  the  form  of  shells  on 
a  flat  dish.  Mix  half  the  dressing  with  the  shrimp,  and 
put  a  spoonful  of  the  mixture  into  each  shell.  Drop 
into  each  shell,  also,  a  teaspoonful  of  the  remaining 
dressing ;  and  then  serve  the  salad  without  delay. 

The  lettuce  must,  of  course,  be  perfectly  clean  and 
crisp.  If  you  cannot  get  the  head  lettuce,  take  the 
larger  leaves  of  cabbage  lettuce,  and  arrange  them 
around  the  border  of  the  dish.  Cut  up  the  crisp  white 
leaves,  and  spread  them  lightly  in  the  centre  of  the  dish. 
On  this  bed  arrange  the  dressed  shrimps,  and  drop  white 
heart  leaves  and  teaspoonfuls  of  dressing  here  and  there. 
If  you  prefer,  you  may  break  the  shrimps  into  two  or 
three  pieces  as  the  first  step  in  making  the  salad. 

*  VEGETABLE    SALADS. 

A  salad  can  be  made  of  almost  any  kind  of  cooked 
vegetables,  but  certain  combinations  are  desirable.  Peas, 
string  and  shell  beans,  asparagus,  cauliflower,  and  young 
carrots  all  combine  well,  and  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips, 
beets,  parsnips,  and  cauliflower  make  another  combina- 
tion. Any  two  of  the  cooked  vegetables  may  be  used 
together.  When  a  variety  is  used  the  dish  is  called 
«  Salade  Macedoine," 


432          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

If  possible,  when  combining  vegetables,  have  those 
which  are  of  delicate  flavor  form  the  body  of  the  salad, 
using  only  a  small  proportion  of  those  with  strong 
flavor.  Remember  that  beets  are  sweet,  and  use  them 
sparingly. 

A  vegetable  salad  may  be  made  a  thing  of  beauty 
or  an  indistinct  mixture  and  uninviting  dish.  Each 
vegetable  should  be  boiled  and  cut  up  separately,  and  all 
should  be  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Use  any  kind 
of  salad  dressing ;  the  French  dressing,  however,  is 
especially  fit.  Sprinkle  the  prepared  vegetables  in  thin 
layers  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  sprinkle  each  layer  with  the 
dressing;  continuing  the  work  until  all  the  materials 
have  been  used.  Let  the  dish  stand  an  hour  or  more  in 
the  ice-chest. 

For  each  quart  of  the  vegetables  use  three  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Mix  this  dressing 
thoroughly  before  using.  The  amount  which  can  be 
made  with  the  ingredients  mentioned  above  flavors  the 
salad  delicately;  and  if  the  dish  be  desired  moist  and 
highly  seasoned,  the  quantity  of  dressing  should  be 
doubled. 

*  French  Vegetable  Salad. 

This  dish  is  made  of  nearly  all  kinds  of  cooked  vege- 
tables, string  and  Lima  beans,  peas,  turnips,  carrots,  and 
cauliflower  being  the  most  desirable.  All  .or  only  a  part 
of -those  which  have  been  mentioned  may  be  used.  The 
string  beans  should  be  cut  into  short  pieces,  and  the 
carrots  and  turnips  into  cubes,  while  the  cauliflower 
should  be  broken  into  little  flowerets.  The  vegetables 
must  be  mixed  lightly,  and  be  placed  in  a  refrigerator, 
to  get  thoroughly  chilled.  They  should  be  cold  when 
used  for  the  salad.  A  quart  will  be  enough  for  six 
persons, 


SALADS.  433 

To  make  the  dressing,  rub  a  slice  of  onion  on  the 
sides  and  bottom  of  a  pint  bowl  j  then  put  into  the  bowl 
a  level  teaspoonf ul  of  salt  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  gradually  beat  in  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
salad  oil  arid  two  of  vinegar.  Mix  this  dressing  thor- 
oughly with  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

*  Mac6doine  Salad. 

This  is  easily  made,  only  a  can  of  mixed  vegetables, 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  two  of  vinegar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per being  used.  Turn  the  vegetables  from  the  can  into 
a  strainer,  and  after  pouring  cold  water  over  them,  put^ 
them  into  a  salad  bowl.  Mix  the  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and 
pepper,  and  add  to  the  vegetables,  mixing  all  very 
thoroughly.  Or,  instead  of  the  can  of  vegetables,  use 
a  gill  each  of  carrot,  turnip,  Lima  beans,  green  peas,  and 
cauliflower.  All  except  the  peas  should  be  cut  into 
small,  pretty  shapes. 

*  Potato  Salad. 

In  no  other  salad  is  there  such  an  opportunity  for 
variety  of  combinations.  The  salad,  though,  of  course, 
to  be  served  cold,  is  always  better  for  being  made  of 
hot  potatoes.  New  potatoes  —  and  when  these  are  not 
in  season,  German  potatoes  —  are  best.  A  ripe,  mealy 
potato  breaks  into  crumbs,  and  spoils  the  appearance  of 
the  dish.  Of  course,  it  is  not  always  convenient  to 
obtain  either  new  or  German  potatoes.  In  that  case 
boil  the  potatoes  a  little  less  time  than  for  most  other 
purposes,  —  say  twenty-five  minutes,  instead  of  thirty. 
Cold  potatoes  may  be  used.  Here  are  a  few  combina- 
tions, and  the  housekeeper  may  enlarge  upon  them  to 
any  extent  she  pleases. 

Cut  one  quart  of  boiled  potatoes  into  small  cubes. 
Add  to  them  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and 


434          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

a  dressing  made  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
six  of  oil,  three  of  hot  water  or  stock,  one  level  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Mix  this  lightly 
with  the  potatoes,  and  set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  an 
hour  or  more. 

Sprinkle  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  over  a  quart  of  potato  cubes,  and  add  half 
a  pint  of  cream  dressing.  Let  the  dish  stand  for  an 
hour  or  more  in  a  cold  place.  At  serving-time  arrange 
crisp  leaves  of  lettuce  on  a  flat  dish.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  salad  in  each  leaf,  and  put  a  teaspoonful 
>f  fine-chopped  cooked  beet  on  top  of  the  potato. 


Make  a  dressing,  the  same  as  for  oyster  salad,  omit- 
ting the  crackers,  however.  Mix  with  one  quart  of 
potato  cubes  one  table-spoonful  of  capers,  two  of  chopped 
cucumber  pickles,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Now  add 
the  dressing,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Let  the 
salad  stand  until  perfectly  cold. 


Olives,  smoked  herring,  fine-chopped  cooked  ham,  or 
smoked  salmon,  may  be  combined  with  potatoes  in  a 
salad.  Indeed,  anything  in  the  way  of  fish,  meat,  or 
vegetable  may  be  used.  Care  must  be  taken  that  such 
additions  do  not  predominate. 

*  Lettuce  Salad. 

Wash  leaf  by  leaf  the  tender  white  leaves  of  two 
heads  of  lettuce,  and  put  them  into  an  ice-chest  for  an 
hour  or  two.  A  short  time  before  the  salad  is  to  be 
served,  cut  an  onion  in  halves,  and  rub  the  inside  of  a 
cup  with  it ;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  four  table- 


SALADS.  435 


spoonfuls  of  olive  oil  into  the  cup,  and  after  stirring 
well,  gradually  add  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  vinegar. 
Lay  the  lettuce  in  a  salad  dish,  and  pour  the  dressing 
upon  it. 

This  dressing  answers  for  any  salad  of  green  or  cooked 
vegetables.  The  onion  flavor  may  be  omitted  if  one 
prefer. 

*  Onion-and-Lettuce  Salad. 

Two  heads  of  lettuce  and  a  small  Spanish  onion  must 
be  taken,  as  well  as  six  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  three 
of  vinegar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

After  mixing  the  salt  and  pepper  with  the  oil,  add  the 
vinegar,  and  stir  very  thoroughly.  Strip  off  and  put 
aside  the  green  leaves  of  lettuce  ;  and  after  washing  the 
heart  leaves  in  cold  water,  drop  them  into  a  pan  of  ice- 
water,  to  make  them  crisp.  Peel  the  onion  (it  is  well 
to  peel  it  under  water),  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  it 
into  shavings.  Shake  the  lettuce  in  a  colander  until 
it  is  free  of  water.  Put  the  lettuce  and  onion  into  a 
salad  bowl  in  alternate  layers,  sprinkling  a  little  of  the 
dressing  upon  each  layer.  Serve  the  salad  as  soon  as 
possible  after  it  is  made ;  or,  to  put  it  in  another  way, 
do  not  make  it  so  early  that  it  will  stand  a  long  time 
before  being  eaten. 

The  green  leaves  of  lettuce,  which  were  put  away  at 
the  outset,  may  be  boiled  and  hashed  like  spinach,  and 
served  as  a  cooked  vegetable. 

Aguacate  Salad. 

The  aguacate,  or  alligator  pear,  is  found  in  foreign- 
fruit  stores.  It  is  obtained  from  a  West  Indies  tree; 
is  shaped  somewhat  like  a  pear,  has  a  very  thin  rind, 
and  an  extremely  large  seed-stone.  A  good-sized  agua- 
cate weighs  about  two  pounds,  and  costs  from  fifteen  to 


436          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

twenty  cents.  In  New  York  there  is  a  fruit  store  on 
Fulton  Street,  near  Fulton  Market,  where  this  fruit  can 
almost  always  be  had. 

For  a  salad,  use  one  good-sized  aguacate,  the  tender 
whit^  leaves  from  two  heads  of  lettuce,  a  Spanish  onion, 
and  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  dressing.  Cut  the  onion 
into  very  thin  slices.  Pare  the  aguacate,  and  cut  it  into 
thin  rings.  Wash  the  lettuce,  keeping  it  as  crisp  as 
possible.  After  putting  two  of  the  leaves  together, 
place  a  slice  of  onion  upon  them ;  over  the  onion  lay  two 
rings  of  the  aguacate ;  and  in  the  centre  of  these  rings 
put  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  Mayonnaise  dressing.  Dis- 
pose of  all  the  material  in  this  manner,  and  after  placing 
on  a  flat  dish,  serve  at  once. 

The  onion  may  be  omitted  if  its  flavor  be  disagreeable. 

*  Spinach   Salad. 

To  a  pint  of  cold  boiled  spinach  that  has  been  minced, 
add  a  dressing  made  of  six  table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  two  of 
vinegar,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Arrange  the  spinach  neatly 
on  a  dish,  and  garnish  with  two  hard-boiled  eggs.  The 
whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  should  be  chopped  sepa- 
rately with  a  plated  knife  (a  steel  blade  would  discolor 
the  eggs)  and  be  heaped  in  little  mounds  on  the  salad. 

When  it  is  planned  to  have  spinach  for  dinner,  the 
vegetable  may  be  washed,  boiled,  and  chopped  early  in 
the  day,  and  it  will  then  be  ready  to  warm  with  the 
butter  and  other  ingredients  at  serving-time.  This  plan 
will  enable  the  making  of  a  salad  on  the  same  day ;  or 
a  pint  of  the  minced  vegetable  may  be  put  aside  for 
the  next  day,  —  having  the  salad  on  a  day  when  another 
dish  of  spinach  is  not  to  be  served  hot. 

Spinach  salad  sometimes  is  served  with  roast  beef, 
mutton^  or  game. 


SALADS.  437 


*  Salsify  in  Salads. 

Cold  boiled  salsify  makes  a  pleasant  salad  when  mixed 
with  a  French  dressing  or  any  other  simple  dressing. 
It  is  also  nice  when  combined  in  a  salad  with  other 
cooked  vegetables  like  potatoes,  carrots,  beans,  and 
cauliflower. 

• 

*  Peppers  in  Salad* 

After  draining  some  boiled  peppers  and  cutting  them 
into  strips,  place  them  in  a  small  bowl,  and  add  to  each 
pint  of  the  peppers  a  mixture  made  of  the  following- 
named  ingredients  :  three  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil, 
one  of  vinegar,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of  onion 
juice. 

This  salad  may  be  served  with  crackers  as  a  course  in 
a  dinner,  or  be  served  with  hot  or  cold  meats. 


*  Cabbage  Salad. 

Chop  rather  fine  a  cabbage  of  medium  size,  and  let  it 
stand  for  two  hours  in  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  sea- 
soned with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt.  Beat  four  eggs 
well,  and  add  to  them  one  pint  of  vinegar,  half  a  cupful 
of  butter,  a  scant  table-spoonf  al  of  pepper,  and  a  heaping 
table-spoonful  of  mustard.  Place  the  bowl  containing 
the  mixture  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the 
mixture  begins  to  thicken,  —  say  for  about  eight  minutes ; 
then  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
sugar.  After  draining  all  the  water  from  the  cabbage, 
pour  this  hot  dressing  over  it ;  and  as  soon  as  the  dish 
is  cold,  it  is  ready  to  be  served.  It  will  keep  a  week, 
and  is  especially  nice  with  cold  meats  at  luncheon  or 
dinner. 


438          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Beet  Salad. 

Cut  cold  boiled  beets  into  cubes,  and  moisten  them 
with  any  kind  of  salad  dressing.  This  is  a  handsome 
and  very  palatable  dish. 

*  Orange  Salad. 

For  twelve  persons  pare  eight  rather  acid  oranges,  and 
slice  them  very  thin,  cutting  down  the  sides  instead  of 
across.  Sprinkle  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sherry,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  maraschino  over 
the  fruit,  and  then  put  it  into  the  refrigerator  for  an 
hour. 

This  is  nice  to  serve  just  before  game,  as  it  prepares 
the  palate  for  new  dishes.  The  wine  and  maraschino 
may  be  omitted,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  used  instead. 

*  Egg  Salad. 

After  boiling  half  a  dozen  eggs  for  twenty  minutes, 
plunge  them  into  cold  water,  and  let  them  lie  there  for 
three  minutes ;  then  take  off  the  shells,  and  cut  the  eggs 
in  halves.  Remove  the  yolks,  and  mash  them  until  light 
and  fine.  Add  to  them  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  of  vinegar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  heap  the  mixture  in  the 
halved  whites.  Serve  on  a  flat  dish  with  a  garnish  of 
lettuce  or  parsley. 

The  yolks  may  be  moistened  with  any  kind  of  salad 
dressing,  in  which  case  the  seasoning  described  above 
should  be  omitted. 

*  Marguerite  Salad. 

Cut  the  whites  of  eight  hard-boiled  eggs  into  rings, 
and  mix  the  yolks  with  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  dress- 
ing. Arrange  sixteen  small  crisp  leaves  of  lettuce  on  a 
flat  dish  in  a  tasteful  way,  having  two  leaves  lie  together 


SALADS.  439 


in  such  a  mauner  as  to  be  round  or  almost  round.  Lay 
the  rings  of  white  upon  these  leaves,  to  simulate  the 
petals  of  a  daisy,  and  heap  the  yolks  in  the  centre. 

If  one  possess  a  little  originality,  there  is  hardly  a 
limit  to  the  variety  of  salads  that  can  be  made  during 
the  summer. 

*  Cheese  Salad. 

Use  for  this  salad  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  a  cupful  and 
a  half  of  cheese,  grated  fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  two  of  vinegar, 
and  a  cupful  of  cold  chicken,  chopped  rather  coarse. 

Rub  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  a  smooth  paste  is 
formed.  Gradually  add  the  oil,  stirring  all  the  while 
with  a  fork ;  then  add  all  the  seasoning.  Mix  the  cheese 
and  chicken  lightly  with  this  dressing,  and  heap  the 
mixture  on  a  pretty  dish.  Garnish  with  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  cut  in  circles,  and  with  a  few  white  celery 
leaves  or  some  sprigs  of  parsley.  Serve  with  water 
crackers,  cold  or  toasted. 


440          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


GARNISHES. 


Fish  Garnishes. 

ANY  kind  of  fried,  boiled,  or  baked  fish  may  be  gar- 
nished in  the  following  manner  :  — 

Arrange  the  fish  in  the  centre  of  a  dish;  then  place 
around  it  a  border  of  sliced  tomatoes,  and  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Tartar  sauce  in  the  centre  of  each  slice  of 
tomato.  Serve  at  once.  The  fish  must  be  very  hot,  and 
the  tomatoes  cold.  Serve  a  slice  of  tomato  to  each 
person. 

Another  garnish  for  the  same  kinds  of  fish  is  small 
smooth  tomatoes,  stuffed  and  baked.  This  is  particularly 
nice  with  baked  fish. 

Fried  or  fresh  parsley  arranged  in  little  groups,  with 
a  slice  of  lemon  between  each  group,  forms  a  good 
garnish. 

Or,  a  border  of  the  delicate  heart  leaves  of  lettuce, 
with  red  radishes  sliced  thin  and  dropped  into  the  leaves, 
and  a  teaspoon ful  of  Mayonnaise  put  into  each  group, 
makes  a  garnish  that  is  especially  suitable  for  fried  or 
broiled  fish. 

Stuffed  olives,  arranged  on  a  thin  border  of  barbe  de 
capucine,  make  a  pleasant  garnish  for  spring. 

Groups  of  crisp  sorrel  leaves  make  another  nice  spring 
garnish  for  fried  or  broiled  fish. 

Fried  oysters  may  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  a  dish  on 
a  warm  napkin,  and  a  border  of  celery  salad  placed 
around  them. 


GARNISHES.  441 


A  shallow  dish,  oval  or  round,  may  be  filled  with 
celery  salad  placed  in  the  centre  of  a  warm  platter, 
and  surrounded  with  fried  oysters  or  fried  scallops. 

When  parsley  is  abundant,  a  thick  border  of  it  may  be 
arranged  on  a  folded  napkin  laid  in  the  centre  of  a 
flat  dish.  Any  kind  of  fried  fish  may  be  used  with  this 
garnish.  In  winter,  celery  leaves  may  be  substituted  for 
the  parsley.  Slices  of  lemon,  laid  here  and  there  on  the 
green,  make  the  dish  more  effective. 

Fried  oysters  are  frequently  served  on  small  squares 
of  fried  Boston  brown  bread.  When  this  is  done,  gar- 
nish with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Boiled  fish  and  baked  or  sauted  fillets  require  a  very 
different  garnish  from  broiled,  fried,  or  ordinary  baked 
fish. 

A  contrasting  sauce  will  alone  be  a  sufficient  garnish 
for  many  delicate  kinds  of  fish,  —  for  example,  a  pink 
lobster  sauce  with  a  clear  white  fish.  Shrimp  sauce, 
with  a  dozen  of  the  whole  shrimps  heated  in  it,  makes 
another  nice  garnish. 

For  boiled  fish,  a  good  garnish  may  be  made  of  rings 
of  the  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  arranged  around  the 
dish,  with  the  unbroken  yolks  placed  in  them. 

Another  way  is  to  chop  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and 
rub  the  yolks  through  a  coarse  strainer.  Arrange  the 
whites  in  little  mounds,  cap  them  with  the  yolks,  and 
stick  a  bit  of  parsley  in  the  top  of  each  mound.  The 
effect  is  very  pretty. 

Still  another  way  is  to  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish, 
then  sprinkle  the  chopped  whites  of  eggs  over  it,  and 
finish  with  the  sifted  yolks.  A  few  bits  of  parsley 
arranged  around  the  edge  of  the  dish  will  give  a  good 
effect. 

Boiled  potato  balls,  seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  and 
chopped  parsley,  make  a  nice  garnish  when  arranged  in 
groups  around  a  dish,  or  when  heaped  in  the  centre  of  a 
circle  of  fillets. 


442          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cold  fish  may  be  seasoned  and  then  garnished  with 
the  chopped  whites  and  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
chopped  pickles  or  capers.  Sprinkle  the  whites  over 
the  fish ;  then  arrange  the  yolks  and  the  pickles  in  very 
small  mounds.  Garnish  the  base  with  bits  of  parsley. 

A  solid  block  of  cold  halibut  or  salmon  may  be  placed 
in  the  centre  of  a  dish,  sprinkled  with  a  marinade,  and 
then  allowed  to  stand  for  several  hours.  At  serving- 
time  it  may  be  coated  with  Mayonnaise,  a  circle  of 
delicate  leaves  of  lettuce  placed  at  the  base  of  the 
fish,  and  sliced  olives  sprinkled  in  this.  If  a  little  color 
be  desired,  a  few  pieces  of  pickled  beets  may  be  added. 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two,  and  take  out  the  yolks. 
Cut  a  slice  from  the  end  of  each  half,  so  that  it  will 
stand  firmly ;  fill  each-  of  these  little  cups  with  cooked 
beets,  finely  chopped.  Garnish  a  plain  boiled  fish  with 
this,  having  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  alternate  with  the 
whites  and  beets. 

A  slice  of  cold  salmon  or.  halibut  may  be  sprinkled 
with  a  marinade,  and  allowed  to  stand  several  hours  in  a 
cold  place.  It  should  be  placed  on  a  large  flat  dish,  and 
masked  with  Mayonnaise.  Arrange  a  circle  of  the  heart 
leaves  of  lettuce  around  it.  Put  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
the  white  and  chopped  beet  in  alternate  leaves. 

Fried  Bread. 

Fried  bread  is  used  as  a  garnish  for  soups,  and  with 
various  entrees.  When  used  for  soup,  it  is  cut  into 
small  squares.  If  for  a  garnish  for  meat  or  fish,  it  is 
cut  into  rounds  and  triangles.  The  bread  must  be  stale 
and  free  of  crust.  It  should  be  fried  in  lard  or  clari- 
fied butter.  If  the  bread  is  to  be  in  rounds,  cut  it  in 
slices  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick;  with  a  round 
pattie-cutter  stamp  out  as  many  rounds  as  you  wish.  Or, 
if  the  shape  is  to  be  triangular,  cut  the  slices  the  same 
thickness,  then  cut  into  squares,  and  cut  the  squares  in 
two  diagonally. 


GARNISHES.  443 


To  Fry  in  Lard.  —  Have  the  fat  so  hot  that  a  blue 
smoke  rises  from  the  centre.  Put  the  bread  in  a  frying- 
basket,  and  lower  it  into  the  fat.  When  the  bread  is  a 
golden  brown  (which  it  should  be  in  about  one  minute), 
take  the  basket  from  the  fat,  and  drain  the  bread  on 
brown  paper. 

To  Fry  in  Butter.  —  Put  half  a  cupful  of  clarified 
butter  in  a  large  frying-pan,  and  heat  it  slowly  until  it 
begins  to  smoke.  Put  in  as  much  bread  as  will  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Brown  on  one  side,  and  then 
turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  Drain  on  paper.  Be  care- 
ful not  to  scorch  the  butter. 

Fried  Boston  Brown  Bread. 

Cut  the  bread  in  thin  slices,  and,  putting  it  into  the 
fry  ing-basket,  plunge  into  boiling  fat.  After  cooking 
for  one  minute,  drain  on  brown  paper. 

Crisped  Bread  for  Soups  or  Garnishes. 

Cut  stale  bread  in  thin  slices,  and  butter  one  side  of 
each  slice.  Cut  the  slices  into  whatever  shape  you  fancy. 
Put  the  bread,  buttered  side  up,  in  a  shallow  tin  pan, 
place  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  until  the  bread  is 
a  rich  brown.  It  will  take  about  five  minutes.  Be  care- 
ful that  the  bread  does  not  burn.  This  bread  is  used 
for  soups  and  garnishes  the  same  as  fried  bread. 

Crisped  Crackers. 

Dip  small  fancy  crackers  in  cold  water.  Take  them 
out  and  butter  them  on  one  side.  Spread  them  in  a 
shallow  pan,  the  buttered  side  up,  and  brown  them  in  a 
hot  oven.  Boston  butter  crackers  may  be  split  and 
treated  in  the  same  manner. 

Crisped  crackers  are  nice  to  serve  with  oyster  soups 
and  stews;  also  with  fish  and  clam  chowders. 


444          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Toasted  Bread  for  a  Garnish. 

Stale  bread  may  be  cut  in  thin  slices,  toasted  very 
brown,  and  then  cut  in  any  form  desired.  Use  the  same 
as  the  fried  or  crisped  bread. 

Royal  Custard,  for  Soup. 

Beat  well  with  a  spoon  three  eggs  and  one-third  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  It  must  be  thoroughly  beaten,  and 
yet  it  should  not  be  frothy.  Add  one  gill  of  consomme. 
Butter  a  cup,  and  pour  the  custard  into  it.  Put  the  cup 
in  a  deep  pan,  and  surround  it  with  warm  water.  Place 
in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  until  the  custard  is  firm  in 
the  centre.  It  should  cook  so  slowly  that  it  will  require 
half  an  hour  for  cooking.  The  water  should  not  be 
allowed  to  boil.  Let  the  custard  cool  in  the  cup ;  then 
turn  it  out,  and  if  any  of  the  surface  be  rough,  trim  it  off. 
Cut  the  custard  into  squares  or  cubes,  and  add  these  to 
three  quarts  of  consomme*,  after  the  consomme  is  in  the 
tureen. 

When  this  custard  is  added  to  a  consomme,  the  soup 
is  called  "  Consomme  a  la  royale." 

Egg   Balls. 

Put  four  eggs  into  a  saucepan,  cover  them  with  boiling 
water,  and  boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes  ;  then  put 
them  into  cold  water  for  a  moment,  and  afterward 
remove  the  shells.  Take  out  the  yolks,  and  pound  them 
in  a  bowl  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  a  level  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  about  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a 
well-beaten  raw  egg.  Shape  the  mixture  into  balls  about 
the  size  of  grapes,  and  roll  these  in  flour.  Put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  small  frying-pan, 
and  when  it  gets  hot,  put  in  the  egg-balls.  Fry  them 
until  they  turn  a  delicate  brown.  They  must  be  watched 
carefully,  and  turned  frequently.  They  may  be  prepared 
and  fried  a  number  of  hours  before  the  soup  is  served. 


GARNISHES.  44o 


Frequently  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  are  put  into 
soups.  They  are  not  nearly  so  nice  as  egg  balls,  and  it 
is  worth  the  while  to  take  a  little  time  and  trouble  for 
the  latter. 

Chicken  Force-meat  Balls. 

Chop  very  fine  half  of  the  breast  of  a  large  tender 
chicken,  and  pound  to  a  smooth  paste  ;  then  rub  it 
through  a  coarse  sieve.  There  should  be  a  generous 
third  of  a  cupful  of  the  meat  after  it  has  passed  through 
the  sieve.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  cream  into  a 
small  saucepan  with  one-eighth  of  a  cupful  of  stale  bread 
crumbs  and  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  and  cook  until  the  mix- 
ture will  form  a  smooth  paste  when  stirred.  It  will 
take  about  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  mace,  and  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  very  little  pepper,  the  meat,  and  the  white  of  an 
egg,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Mix  well,  and  set  away  to 
cool.  When  cold,  form  into  balls  about  the  size  of  Dela- 
ware grapes.  Have  ready  a  pan  containing  a  quart  of 
boiling  water,  slightly  salted.  Drop  in  the  balls,  and 
place  the  pan  where  the  water  will  keep  hot  without 
boiling.  Cook  the  balls  in  this  way  for  five  minutes. 
Turn  them  into  a  strainer,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  well 
drained,  add  them  to  the  soup. 

Profiteroles  for  Soup. 

Use  one  gill  of  boiling  water,  two  scant  gills  of  flour, 
half  a  gill  of  butter,  and  two  eggs.  Put  the  water  and 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  place  on  the  fire.  When  the 
butter  becomes  melted  and  the  liquid  begins  to  boil 
rapidly,  add  the  flour,  all  at  one  time,  and  beat  well  with 
a  strong  spoon  for  two  minutes,  being  careful  that  the 
mixture  does  not  burn.  Turn  it  into  a  bowl,  and  set 
away  to  cool.  When  it  is  cold,  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  and  beat  the  mixture  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 


446          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  shallow  cake-pan  very  lightly. 
Drop  the  cooled  mixture  into  the  pan  in  balls  about  the 
size  of  a  pea.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  take  them  from  the  pan,  and  put  away 
until  the  time  for  serving  in  the  soup.  They  should  not 
be  put  into  the  tureen  until  after  the  soup  has  been 
poured  in. 

If  a  delicate  flavor  of  cheese  be  liked,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  may  be  added  to 
the  butter  and  water  when  they  are  put  on  to  boil. 

Effective  Combinations  of  Vegetables. 

With  a  fillet  of  beef  any  of  the  following-named  prepa- 
rations of  vegetables  may  be  used  as  a  garnish :  Potatoes 
a  la  parisienne,  peas,  stuffed  onions,  stuffed  tomatoes, 
vegetables  a  la  jardiniere,  macedoine  of  vegetables,  mush- 
rooms, stuffed,  stewed,  or  broiled,  fried  sweet  potatoes, 
and  Brussels  sprouts. 

Beef,  veal,  and  lambs'  tongues  all  may  be  served  with 
a  mound  of  mashed  potatoes,  or  with  a  pure*e  of  spinach, 
turnip,  carrot,  cabbage,  tomato,  or  cauliflower,  or  with 
artichokes,  turnips,  stewed  carrots,  vegetables  k  la  jar- 
diniere, mace*doine  of  vegetables,  boiled  rice,  Turkish  rice, 
or  macaroni. 

Chops  and  cutlets  of  veal,  lamb,  or  mutton  may  be 
arranged  around  a  mound  of  mashed  potatoes,  a  timbale 
of  potatoes,  a  mound  of  thin  fried  or  French  fried  pota- 
toes, a  mound  of  peas,  beans,  asparagus,  Brussels  sprouts, 
spinach,  salsify,  or  okra ;  or  they  may  be  disposed  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  another  vegetable,  like 
peas,  beans,  tomatoes,  or  cauliflower,  may  be  heaped  in 
the  centre;  or,  again,  there  may  be  a  combination  of 
vegetables,  as  k  la  jardiniere,  or  the  mace'doine ;  or  a 
sauce  may  be  poured  in  the  centre. 

Carrots  and  peas,  singly  or  together,  afford  most  effec- 
tive combinations  in  garnishes,  because  of  their  beautiful 


GARNISHES.  447 


colors.  Cutlets  of  game  require  the  same  kinds  of  vege- 
tables that  would  be  served  with  cutlets  of  mutton,  lamb, 
or  veal.  The  vegetables  suitable  with  cutlets  or  chops 
may  be  served  with  almost  any  kind  of  entree  made 
of  cold  meat.  When  the  made  dishes  are  in  the  form 
of  croquettes,  timbales,  cutlets,  or  quenelles,  the  vege- 
tables should  be  served  as  a  puree,  or  in  a  simpler  sauce, 
or  with  only  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  butter.  Heap 
the  vegetable  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  and  arrange  the 
entree  around  it ;  or  a  mace'doine,  or  vegetables  a  la  jar- 
diniere, may  be  placed  in  the  centre,  and  the  entree  be 
disposed  on  the  border. 

Purges  of  Vegetables. 

When  a  puree  of  vegetables  is  designed  for  a  garnish, 
it  must  be  made  so  dry  that  it  will  not  spread  over  the 
dish  when  poured  upon  it ;  yet  it  must  be  moist  enough 
to  be  served  almost  as  a  sauce. 

In  making  a  puree,  one  must  pare  the  vegetable  used, 
if  it  have  any  skin,  and  boil  or  stew  it  until  tender; 
then  mash  it  tine,  and  rub  it  through  a  pure*e  sieve; 
season  it,  and  moisten  with  stock,  or  milk,  cream,  or  per- 
haps some  of  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled ;  and  at 
serving-time  make  it  very  hot,  and  serve  it  on  a  warm 
dish  in  the  form  and  size  desired.  The  hoi;  entree  should 
be  placed  upon  the  puree,  and  the  dish  be  served  at  once. 
A  puree  of  potatoes  does  not,  however,  need  to  be  pressed 
through  a  sieve.  It  is  spoiled  by  standing,  and  should 
therefore  be  served  as  soon  as  made. 

Here  are  receipts  for  a  few  purees :  — 

Pure"e  of  Cauliflower. 

Use  a  head  of  cauliflower  weighing  about  two  pounds 
and  a  half,  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 


448          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


twosof  salt,  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper. 

Beinove  and  discard  the  green  leaves  of  the  cauliflower, 
and  wash  the  remaining  part  in  cold  water ;  then  place 
it,  head  down,  in  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  it,  and 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt.  Soak  it  for  two  hours, 
and  at  the  end  of  that  time  put  it  into  a  large  stew-pan, 
and  add  three  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Cover,  and  sim- 
mer for  thirty  minutes;  then  turn  into  a  colander,  and 
drain  thoroughly,  and  afterward  turn  into  a  wooden  bowl 
or  tray,  and  pound  to  a  pulp.  Finally  rub  through  a 
pure'e  sieve. 

Put  the  butter  and  chopped  onion  into  a  large  frying- 
pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  five  minutes.  Add  the  cauli- 
flower, salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  flour,  and  cook  for  five 
minutes,  stirring  all  the  while;  then  add  the  stock  or 
cream,  and  cook  for  three  minutes  longer,  stirring  all  the 
while.  At  the  end  of  that  time  spread  the  pure'e  on 
the  dish,  add  the  entrde,  and  serve. 

Other  Pur6es. 

Spinach  is  prepared  in  almost  the  same  manner  as 
cauliflower.  There  is  this  difference :  use  only  water 
enough  to  cover  it  when  it  is  boiled;  or  if  the  bitter 
flavor  of  the  vegetable  be  liked,  use  only  a  cupful  of 
water  to  a  peck  of  spinach.  Turnips  and  carrots  will 
require  forty  minutes'  boiling ;  asparagus,  fifteen,  —  only 
the  green  heads  being  cooked;  peas,  from  twenty  to 
forty  minutes,  —  the  time  depending  upon  their  age  and 
freshness;  beans  can  be  boiled  sufficiently  in  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  if  fresh,  or  in  two  hours,  if  they  be  rather 
old. 

When  tomatoes  are  used  for  a  pure'e,  most  of  the 
liquor  must  be  drained  from  them  before  they  are  put 
on  to  cook ;  and  to  each  quart  of  the  pulp  there  should 
be  added  two  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker  crumbs, 


GARNISHES.  449 


two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  large  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook 
the  tomatoes  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  the  other  ingre- 
dients, having  the  flour  and  butter  mixed  together,  ami 
cook  twenty  minutes  longer.  Finally  rub  the  puree 
through  a  sieve. 

Pur6e  of  Chestnuts. 

To  garnish  a  dish  that  will  serve  for  twelve  persons, 
use  fifty  Spanish  chestnuts,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  half  a  pint  of  white  stock,  one  gill  of  cream. 

Shell,  blanch,  and  boil  the  chestnuts  in  water  sufficient 
to  cover  them,  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  the  water, 
and  put  the  nuts  in  the  mortar.  Pound  them  to  a  powder, 
and  add  the  butter,  the  seasoning,  and  the  stock,  a  little 
at  a  time.  Continue  pounding  for  ten  minutes  longer ; 
then  rub  through  a  puree  sieve.  Put  the  strained  mix- 
ture in  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  one  hour,  stirring 
frequently.  Then  beat  in  the  cream,  and  cook  for  five 
minutes  longer.  This  pure'e  is  served  with  cutlets  of 
turkey  and  game. 

Pure"e  a  la  Bretonne. 

Make  a  Breton  sauce.  Pour  it  in  the  centre  of  a 
warm  platter,  and  in  the  centre  of  this  sauce  heap  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  boiled  Lima  beans,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  butter.  Arrange  cutlets  or  chops  of  mutton  or  pork 
around  this,  and  serve  very  hot.  Or  the  garnish  may 
be  arranged  in  a  vegetable  dish,  and  served  with  a  roast 
of  mutton. 

Rice  Border. 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters.  Put  it  in  a 
stew-pan  with  three  cupfuls  of  white  stock.  Cook  for 
half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  one  level 


450          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

table-spoonful  of  salt  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  set  back  where  the  mixture  will  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk ;  stir  these  into  the 
rice.  Butter  a  border-mould  thoroughly ;  pack  the  rice 
into  it.  Let  it  stand  for  eight  or  ten  minutes  in  a  warm 
(not  hot)  place,  and  turn  it  out  on  a  warm  platter. 
The  centre  may  be  filled  with  any  preparation  of  meat 
warmed  in  a  sauce.  This  makes  a  very  elegant  and 
savory  dish. 

Potato  Border. 

Pare,  boil,  and  mash  nine  good-sized  potatoes ;  add  to 
them  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  generous  half-cup- 
ful of  boiling  milk,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten;  and  beat  the 
mixture  until  very  light.  Butter  a  border  mould  thor- 
oughly. Pack  the  potato  in  it,  and  let  it  stand  on  the 
kitchen  table  for  about  eight  minutes.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  froth  j  add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonf ul  of 
salt  to  them,  and  turn  the  potato  border  on  a  warm 
platter.  Cover  the  potato  with  the  beaten  white  of  the 
egg,  and  put  the  dish  into  a  moderate  oven  to  brown 
the  egg.  Take  from  the  oven,  and  fill  the  centre  with 
meat  or  fish  heated  in  a  sauce. 


FORCE-MEAT. 

THis  is  used  so  extensively  in  the  making  of  entries 
that  a  good  cook  should  understand  its  preparation 
perfectly.  When  the  principles  are  once  mastered  there 
need  be  no  fear  of  failure  in  the  preparation  of  the  most 
delicate  dish  which  in  a  great  measure  depends  for  its 
success  upon  the  quality  of  the  force-meat. 

The  finest  kinds  of  force-meat  consist  of  raw  meat  or 
fish,  a  panada,  either  butter,  beef  suet,  or  calf  s  udder, 
eggs,  and  seasoning. 


GARNISHES.  451 


To  prepare  the  meat  or  fish,  free  it  of  fat,  skin, 
bone,  and  sinews ;  then  chop  it  fine,  and  pound  it  to  a 
paste.  Put  it  in  a  wire  pur^e  sieve,  and  with  a  wooden 
vegetable-masher  rub  it  through  the  sieve.  This  is  the 
hardest  part  of  the  work  in  making  force-meat. 

Panada  is  made  by  cooking  together,  until  a  smooth 
paste  is  formed,  bread  and  cream  or  stock  in  the  pro- 
portions of  half  as  much  bread  as  there  is  cream  or 
stock.  If  beef  suet  be  used  it  must  be  freed  of  tough 
fibrous  parts,  then  chopped  fine,  and  pounded  with  the 
meat  and  bread.  It  is  then  rubbed  through  the  pur^e 
sieve.  This  is  not  so  delicate  as  butter  or  calf's  udder, 
and  is  not  so  often  used.  When  a  force-meat  is  made  in 
this  manner  it  is  called  "  godiveau."  It  is  cheaper  than 
the  force-meat  made  with  butter  or  udder. 

Calf's  udder  is  a  fat-looking  substance  attached  to  the 
inner  part  of  the  leg  of  veal.  To  prepare  it  tie  it  in  a 
piece  of  netting,  and  boil  it  in  the  stock-pot  for  one  hour. 
If  there  be  no  stock  cooking,  boil  it  in  slightly  salted 
water.  When  cold,  chop  it;  then  pound,  and  rub  it 
through  a  puree  sieve.  When  the  udder  is  used  in  place 
of  butter,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  have  it  blend  with 
the  other  ingredients.  This  is  best  done  by  pounding 
all  the  ingredients  together  in  the  mortar. 

In  all  the  rules  for  force-meats  given  in  this  book, 
butter  and  cream  have  been  used ;  but  the  same  quantity 
of  udder  may  be  substituted  for  the  butter,  and  soup 
stock  may  always  be  used  instead  of  cream  in  the 
panada. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  all  the  meat  except 
liver  (which  is  boiled)  and  all  the  fish  must  be  raw. 

Sometimes  the  bread  may  be  a  little  firmer  than  at 
others ;  or  it  may  be  cooked  too  long  in  the  cream,  and 
thus  become  tough  and  rather  dry,  in  which  case  the 
force-meat  will  not  be  so  delicate.  Again,  the  force-meat 
may  from  various  causes  be  too  delicate  to  keep  its  form. 
It  is  always  best  to  try  the  mixture  after  it  is  finished. 


452          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


To  do  this,  roll  a  small  piece  into  the  shape  of  a  ball ; 
drop  it  into  a  small  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  move  the 
saucepan  back  where  the  water  will  not  boil,  and  cook 
the  force-meat  ball  for  ten  minutes.  This  is  called 
poaching.  Take  up  and  cut  open.  If  it  cuts  smooth 
and  firm  all  through,  and  yet  is  very  tender,  it  is  all 
right ;  but  if  it  should  be  tough,  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream  to  each  half -pint  of  force-meat;  or  if  you 
should  use  a  little  Bechamel  sauce,  it  would  be  better 
than  the  cream. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  force-meat  ball  is  too  soft, 
and  shrinks  when  cut,  add  one  well- beaten  egg  to  every 
pint  of  the  force-meat.  This  will  give  it  more  body. 

No  matter  in  what  form  the  force-meat  may  be  cooked, 
the  greatest  care  must  always  be  used  to  cook  it  very 
slowly.  The  heat  must  never  be  above  the  boiling-point. 
If  the  water  with  which  the  article  is  surrounded  be 
allowed  to  boil,  the  force-meat  will  be  spongy  and  tough  ; 
but  if  cooked  at  the  boiling-point,  or  a  little  below  it, 
the  force-meat  will  be  smooth,  fine-grained,  and  delicate. 

Force-meats  are  used  for  quenelles,  boudins,  borders 
for  entries,  in  the  shape  of  balls  for  soups,  for  raised 
pies,  timbales,  etc. 

Chicken-Liver  Force-meat. 

For  about  a  pint  and  a  half  of  force-meat  use  six 
chicken  livers,  one  pint  of  cream  or  rich  chicken  stock, 
half  a  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  three  eggs,  one  gen- 
erous  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-sixth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  one-eighth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 

Wash  the  livers,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with 
boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them.  Boil  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  take  them  from  the  water  and  let  them 
cool.  When  cold,  pound  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  then 
rub  through  a  puree  sieve.  Put  the  bread  and  cream 


GARNISHES.  453 


in  a  small  stew-pan,  and  cook  slowly,  stirring  often, 
until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed,  —  it  will  take  about  ten 
minutes  for  this.  Then  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
butter  to  the  paste,  let  it  cool  slightly,  and  add  the  liver, 
the  seasoning,  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Mix  these 
ingredients  thoroughly,  and  cool  them.  The  force-meat 
is  then  ready  for  any  purpose. 

Sometimes  this  force-meat  is  made  by  using  three  gills 
of  the  liver  and  three  gills  of  chicken  meat.  This  give? 
a  more  delicate  dish. 

Chicken  Force-meat  —  White. 

Use  the  uncooked  breasts  ol  two  large  fowls,  chopped, 
pounded,  and  rubbed  through  a  puree  sieve.  This  will 
give  a  generous  half-pint  of  meat.  In  addition  will  be 
needed  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  one-eighth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  one  gill  of 
stale  bread,  free  of  crust,  and  the  whites  of  three  eggs. 

Mix  the  seasoning  with  the  strained  meat.  Boil  the 
bread,  mace,  and  cream  together  until  they  are  cooked 
to  a  smooth  paste,  —  about  ten  minutes  j  then  take  from 
the  fire,  and  add  the  butter,  and  then  add  the  meat  and 
seasoning.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add 
them  to  the  mixture.  Stir  until  all  the  ingredients  are 
thoroughly  blended. 

Chicken  Force-meat  —  Dark. 

Make  this  the  same  as  the  white  force-meat,  with  the 
exception  of  substituting  dark  meat  for  white,  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  for  the  whites. 

Veal  Force-meat. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  the  chicken  force-meat, 
save  that  half  a  pint  of  veal,  chopped,  pounded,  and 
strained,  is  used  instead  of  chicken. 


454         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Game  Force-meat. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  any  kind  of  game  instead  of  the 
chicken,  and  proceed  as  for  chicken  force-meat. 

Fish  Force-meat. 

Any  kind  of  delicate  fish  may  be  used  for  force-meat. 
It  must  be  free  of  skin,  fat,  and  bone.  Pound,  and 
rub  it  through  the  puree  sieve.  Use  a  generous  half -pint 
of  this,  and  proceed  as  for  chicken  force-meat. 

Oyster  Force-meat. 

Use  one  generous  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  one 
dozen  large  oysters,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne, one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  a  slight  grating 
of  nutmeg,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oyster  juice,  and  the  yolks  of  two  uncooked 
eggs. 

Chop  the  oysters  very  fine,  add  the  other  ingredients, 
pound  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  rub  through  a  pure*e  sieve. 
Taste,  to  see  if  the  preparation  is  salt  enough ;  if  not, 
add  more  salt. 

This  force-meat  may  be  used  for  timbales,  or  for  stuff- 
ing any  kind  of  fish  or  poultry.  It  may  also  be  shaped 
into  balls  or  quenelles,  which  may  be  covered  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  bread  crumbs,  and  then  fried;  or 
the  balls  may  be  made  very  small,  then  rolled  in  egg 
yolks,  and  browned  in  a  hot  oven.  When  treated  in 
this  manner,  they  are  a  nice  garnish  for  soup. 

Anchovy  Force-meat. 

Use  one  bottle  of  anchovies,  preserved  in  salt,  one 
gill  of  stock,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  two  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table- 


GARNISHES.  455 


spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  grain  of  cayenne,  and  the 
yolks  of  two  uncooked  eggs. 

Take  the  fish  from  the  brine,  and  wash  them,  and  then 
soak  in  cold  water  for  two  hours;  drain  and  wipe  the 
anchovies,  and  then  take  out  the  bones.  Boil  the  bread 
and  stock  together  for  ten  minutes ;  cool  the  mixture  j 
then  put  this,  with  the  anchovies  and  all  the  other  ingre- 
dients, except  the  egg  yolks,  into  the  mortar,  and  pound 
to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the  egg  yolks,  and  pound  for 
ten  minutes  longer.  Eub  through  a  puree  sieve,  and  the 
force-meat  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Anchovy  force-meat  may  be  used  for  timbales,  or  to 
stuff  smelts,  olives,  turbans  of  fish,  etc. 

Chicken  Quenelles. 

Use  the  breast  of  one  chicken,  half  of  a  calf's  brains, 
half  a  gill  of  cream,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  stale 
bread  crumbs,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one 
egg,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Clean  the  brains,  tie  them  in  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth, 
and  boil  for  half  an  hour  in  salted  water,  or,  better  still, 
in  stock.  Let- them  cool.  Chop  the  raw  chicken  breast,  and 
add  the  brains ;  pound,  and  rub  through  a  puree  sieve. 
Add  the  seasoning.  Cook  the  bread  and  cream  together 
for  three  minutes;  add  the  butter,  and  then  add  this 
mixture  and  the  egg,  well  beaten,  to  the  meat  and 
seasoning.  Mix  these  ingredients  thoroughly  ;  set  away 
to  cool.  When  the  force-meat  is  cold,  put  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  chicken  stock,  or  any  other  light  stock,  on  the  fire 
in  a  saucepan.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  small  frying-pan. 
Put  some  boiling  water  into  a  bowl ;  dip  two  teaspoons 
into  the  water  for  a  moment;  fill  one  spoon  with  the 
force-meat,  and  slip  the  force-meat  on  the  other  spoon  as 
illustrated  on  page  456.  Then  slip  the  quenelle  from  the 


456          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

second  spoon  into  the  buttered  pan.  When  all  the 
quenelles  are  formed,  cover  them  with  the  boiling  stock , 
place  on  a  part  of  the  stove  where  the  stock  will  be 


Process  of  Making  Quenelles. 

sure  not  to  boil ;  cover  the  quenelles  with  but- 
tered paper,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  If  the 
quenelles  be  made  with  table-spoons,  they  must 
be  poached  for  twenty  minutes.  The  small 
quenelles  are  used  for  soups  and  in  ragouts ;  when  made 
with  table-spoons,  they  may  be  served  with  a  delicate 
sauce,  as  an  entree.  With  the  quantity  of  ingredients 
given  above,  about  a  dozen  and  a  half  small  quenelles 
may  be  made. 

The  force-meat  may  be  shaped  into  balls  the  size  of 
an  olive,  and  be  poached  in  the  same  manner  as  when 
shaped  with  a  spoon. 

Financidre  Ragout. 

Use  two  cocks'-combs,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped 
truffles,  a  cupful  of  mushrooms,  cut  into  dice,  one  pair 
of  sweetbreads,  boiled  and  cut  into  dice,  half  a  pint  of 
small  chicken  quenelles,  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  half 
a  gill  of  Madeira,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  all  the  ingredients  in  a  stew-pan,  and  simmer 
for  ten  minutes.  This  ragout  is  used  with  fillets  of 
poultry  and  game,  with  quenelles,  as  a  filling  for  a  tim- 
bale,  etc.  Whenever  it  is  used  with  a  dish,  the  dish 


GARNISHES.  457 


takes  its  name ;  as,  for  example,  sweetbreads  a  la  finan- 
ciere.  In  making  this  ragout,  the  simplest  way  is  to 
buy  the  cocks'-combs,  mushrooms,  and  truffles  all  in  one 
bottle.  A  bottle  costing  f  2.50  will  be  sufficient  for  the 
ragout,  and  also  for  a  pint  of  financiere  sauce.  This 
ragout  is  so  rich  that  only  a  very  small  portion  should 
be  served  to  a  guest ;  the  amount  given  will  therefore 
be  enough  to  serve  as  a  dish  intended  for  a  dozen  per- 
sons. The  quenelles  may  be  made  with  the  rule  for 
chicken  force-meat  for  soup.  Shape  them  in  teaspoons, 
and  poach  in  boiling  stock  for  five  minutes. 

Chicken  Ragout. 

Put  into  the  double-boiler  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cooked 
chicken,  cut  into  dice,  half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  cut 
into  small  pieces,  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs, 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  cut  in  rings,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and 
one  pint  of  supreme  or  white  sauce.  Place  on  the  fire, 
.  and  cook  for 'twenty  minutes. 

This  ragout  may  be  used  to  fill  a  vol-au-vent,  to  pour 
into  the  centre  of  a  rice  or  force-meat  border,  or  to 
serve  with  fillets  of  chicken. 

Ragout  of  Game. 

Put  into  a  double-boiler  a  pint  and  a  half  of  any  kind 
of  tender  cooked  game,  cut  into  dice,  half  a  pint  of 
mushrooms,  cut  into  dice,  a  dozen  and  a  half  stoned 
olives,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  grain  of  cayenne,  and  one 
pint  of  Spanish  sauce.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  heat  for 
twenty  minutes.  Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
and  one  of  lemon  juice. 

This  ragout  may  be  used  as  a  garnish  with  game  cut- 
lets, to  fill  a  border  of  rice  or  force-meat,  or  to  fill  a  vol- 
au-vent.  Small  rounds  of  red  tongue  may  be  added  to 
the  ragout. 


458          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Aspic  Jelly. 

Use  one  quart  of  rich  consomme*,  one  gill  of  Madeira, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
package  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  the  consomme'  for 
two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  the  remainder  of 
the  consomme*  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan.  As  soon  as  it 
reaches  the  boiling-point,  add  the  soaked  gelatine  and 
the  other  ingredients.  Draw  back  to  a  cooler  part  of  the 
range,  and  stir  for  five  minutes.  Then  strain  through  a 
flannel  bag  or  a  napkin.  The  liquid  may  be  cooled  in 
any  form  one  pleases.  The  amount  of  materials  given 
will  make  nearly  three  pints  of  jelly. 

Aspic  jelly  is  used  in  such  dishes  as  boned  birds,  foie  de 
gras,  and  all  kinds  of  delicate  meats  and  fish.  The  mode 
of  making  it  described  is  the  simplest  one.  If  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  be  moderately  well  beaten  and  added 
to  the  hot  consomme  at  the  same  time  that  the  soaked 
gelatine  and  other  ingredients  are  put  with  it,  the 
jelly  may  be  cleared  as  directed  for  clearing  jellies.  If 
it  be  then  strained  through  a  flannel  bag,  the  jelly  will 
be  as  clear  as  crystal. 

Aspic  jelly  may  be  used  to  garnish  cold  meats,  fish, 
or  salads. 

Pour  the  jelly  into  a  flat  dish  to  a  depth  of  about  an 
inch ;  when  firm,  stamp  it  out  with  fancy  cutters.  A 
border  of  these  fancy  shapes  may  be  arranged  around  a 
salad,  a  piece  of  cold  fish,  or  a  boned  bird. 

To  make  an  aspic  border,  place  a  border  mould  in  a 
pan  and  surround  it  with  ice.  Pour  the  jelly  into  the 
border  to  the  depth  of  an  inch.  When  this  is  congealed, 
decorate  it  with  cooked  beet  and  carrot,  and  the  white  of 
a  hard-boiled  egg,  all  cut  into  fancy  shapes  with  the 
vegetable-cutters.  Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid 
jelly  to  fasten  the  decorations  in  place.  When  this  has 


GARNISHES.  459 


hardened,  pour  in  about  an  inch  more  of  the  liquid  jelly, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  several  hours.  This 
border  may  be  turned  on  a  flat  dish,  and  the  centre  be 
filled  with  a  salad  or  with  cold  fish.  If  the  border  be 
large  enough,  a  boned  fowl  or  bird  may  be  placed  in  the 
centre.  The  jelly  may  be  cooled  in  tiny  moulds,  and 
each  mould  be  decorated  with  any  of  the  vegetables 
named  for  the  border,  or  with  anything  else  one  may 
fancy. 

Glaze. 

Meat  glaze  is  used  a  great  deal  in  high-class  cookery. 
It  is  consomm^  boiled  down  to  a  thick  glue-like  sub- 
stance. One  quart  of  consomme  is  put  in  an  open  sauce- 
pan, and  boiled  until  it  is  reduced  to  half  a  pint. 

Half-glaze  is  made  by  reducing  a  quart  of  consomme* 
to  one  pint.  The  thicker  glaze  may  be  kept  for  a  month 
or  more  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Glaze  is  used  to  give  a  smoot-h,  glossy  surf-ace  to 
cooked  meats.  It  is  also  added  to  soups,  sauces,  and 
ragouts  to  give  them  smoothness  and  body.  When  it  is 
used  on  meats  it  should  be  put  in  a  small  saucepan,  and 
this  saucepan  must  be  placed  in  another  of  boiling 
water ;  stir  the  glaze  until  it  is  melted,  and  it  is  ready 
to  use.  A  brush  or  a  small  piece  of  cloth  is  used  for 
spreading  the  glaze  on  the  meat. 

Marinades. 

' 

A  marinade  is  a  kind  of  pickle  which  is  used  to  season 
meats  and  fish  either  before  or  after  they  are  cooked.  It 
is  nearly  always  added  to  the  meat  or  fish  that  is  to  be 
used  in  a  salad.  Cold  boiled  fish  is  sometimes  sprinkled 
with  it  several  hours  before  serving.  Various  kinds  of 
cutlets  are  steeped  in  a  marinade  for  hours  before  they 
are  cooked.  A  leg  of  venison,  and  venison  chops,  steaks, 
and  cutlets,  are  frequently  kept  in  marinade  for  a  day 


460          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

or  longer,  before  being  cooked.     There  are  two  kinds  of 
marinades,  the  cooked  and  uncooked. 

Cooked  Marinade. 

Put  into  a  stew-pan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
of  chopped  bacon,  three  each  of  chopped  onion,  carrot, 
and  celery,  one  clove  of  garlic,  one  bay  leaf,  and  one 
sprig  each  of  thyme  and  parsley. 

Let  these  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add 
three  gills  of  vinegar,  and  one  of  water,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Simmer  for 
twenty  minutes;  then  strain  and  cool.  This  marinade 
is  particularly  nice  for  cutlets  of  game  and  poultry,  and 
for  fish. 

Raw  Marinade. 

Mix  together  three  table-spoonfuls  of  oil  and  six  of 
vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice. 

If  the  marinade  be  for  fish,  use  only  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar  and  three  of  lemon  juice.  The  onion 
juice  may  be  omitted  if  it  be  not  liked.  This  marinade 
is  suitable  for  cooked  meat  or  fish  that  is  to  be  served  in 
a  salad. 

Essence  of  Chicken. 

Draw  and  clean  a  fowl  weighing  about  five  pounds. 
Remove  the  greater  part  of  the  fat.  Cut  the  fowl  into 
small  pieces,  and  place  it  in  a  stew-pan,  adding  three 
pints  of  cold  water.  Place  it  on  the  fire,  and  heat  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point.  Skim  carefully,  and  set  back 
where  it  will  simmer  for  three  hours.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  add  one  small  slice  of  carrot,  one-fourth  of  a 
small  onion,  and  one  clove.  Cook  for  half  an  hour 
longer,  and  then  strain.  Put  the  liquid  in  a  cool  place. 


GARNISHES.  461 

When  cold,  skim  off  the  fat.  The  liquid,  when  chilled, 
should  be  a  firm  jelly. 

Essence  of  chicken  is  used  in  making  rich  sauces  and 
ragouts.  A  few  spoonfuls  of  it  are  added  to  a  sauce  to 
give  it  increased  smoothness  and  body. 

The  cooked  fowl  used  in  making  the  essenee  may  be 
served  with  a  sauce. 


.  . 


462          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


MEAT  AND   FISH   SAUCES. 

THIS  is  a  branch  of  cookery  which  every  housekeeper 
should  understand  perfectly.  There  are  many  simple 
sauces  which  can  be  made  quickly  .and  of  materials 
always  at  hand  ;  but  for  fine  sauces  there  must  be  rich, 
clear  stock,  and  a  long,  slow  process  of  preparation. 

When  a  sauce  is  desired  clear,  smooth,  and  velvety, 
the  saucepan  must  be  placed  on  a  part  of  the  stove 
where  the  sauce  will  bubble  at  only  one  side.  The 
saucepan  must  not  be  covered.  In  two  hours'  time  the 
sauce  will  "  clear,"  as  it  is  termed ;  that  is,  the  butter 
will  have  separated  from  the  other  ingredients  and  will 
float  on  top,  the  flour  and  other  ingredients  will  have 
combined  and  dissolved,  and  the  sauce  will  have  a  semi- 
transparent  appearance.  All  fine  sauces,  such  as  Span- 
ish, supreme,  mushroom,  etc.,  must  be  cleared  in  this 
manner. 

When  cooking  butter  and  flour  together  for  a  thicken- 
ing, be  sure,  that  the  butter  is  hot  before  the  flour  is 
added.  When  the  flour  is  added,  be  sure  to  stir  con- 
stantly until  the  liquid  is  added.  If  the  sauce  is  to  be 
white,  the  liquid  must  be  added  to  the  butter  and  flour 
before  the  mixture  begins  to  brown,  —  that  is,  while  it  is 
still  frothy.  When  the  sauce  is  to  be  brown,  the  flour 
and  butter  must  be  cooked  together  until  as  brown  as  a 
chestnut.  These  preparations  of  butter  and  flour  are 
termed  brown  and  white  roux,  although  as  roux  really 
means  "  russet,"  it  can  hardly  be  applied  with  propriety 
to  a  white  thickening. 

One  of  the  mistakes  of  the  inexperienced  cook  in 
making  a  sauce  with  a  thickening  of  butter  and  flour 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  463 

cooked  together  is  that  the  liquid  is  added  to  the  thick- 
ening before  the  temperature  has  been  lowered.  The 
pan  in  which  the  butter  and  flour  are  cooked  should  be 
drawn  back  to  a  cool  part  of  the  range,  and  the  mixture 
should  be  stirred  until  partially  cooled ;  then  may  be 
added  gradually  the  liquid,  which  should  be  cold,  or 
nearly  so,  whenever  possible. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  a  sauce  must  cook  long 
enough  to  clear  and  have  the  butter  separate  and  come 
to  the  top,  where  it  can  be  skimmed  off;  or  that  the 
sauce  should  not  boil  more  than  ten  minutes  from  the 
time  the  liquid  is  added.  When  a  sauce  is  cooked  less 
than  ten  minutes  the  butter  does  not  separate  from  the 
other  ingredients.  Longer  cooking  causes  the  butter  par- 
tially to  separate  from  the  other  materials ;  this  makes 
the  sauce  greasy  unless  the  cooking  be  continued  long 
enough  to  make  the  separation  complete. 

For  common  sauces  the  quick  method  is  generally 
used,  and  it  sometimes  happens  that,  by  mistake,  the 
sauce  is  cooked  so  long  that  it  becomes  oily.  In  this 
case  add  a  little  cold  stock  or  water,  and  stir  until  the 
sauce  begins  to  boil.  It  will  then  be  perfectly  smooth ; 
take  it  from  the  fire  at  once. 

If  the  suggestions  here  given  be  remembered  and  the 
rules  for  the  various  sauces  carefully  followed,  any 
housekeeper  may  feel  assured  of  success. 

Spanish  Sauce. 

This  is  the  finest  of  the  brown  sauces,  and  is  the  foun- 
dation of  many  of  the  meat  and  fish  sauces.  There  will 
be  required  for  it  one  pint  and  a  gill  of  consomme,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  gelatine,  four  of  flour,  four  of  butter, 
two  of  chopped  onion,  one  of  chopped  carrot,  one  of 
chopped  celery,  one  ounce  of  lean  ham,  one  bay  leaf,  one 
sprig  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  a  bit  of  mace,  salt,  and 
pepper. 


464          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  gill  of  consomme*  for  an  hour 
or  more.  Cook  the  butter  and  vegetables  together  for 
ten  minutes,  being  careful  not  to  let  them  burn ;  add 
the  flour,  and  cook  until  brown,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Draw  the  saucepan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  pint  of 
consomme ;  boil  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Then  add  the  herbs  and  spice,  and  put  the  mixture  back 
where  it  will  simmer,  letting  it  stay  there  for  two  hours. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Skim  the  fat  from 
the  sauce,  and  strain.  It  is  now  ready  to  be  served 
as  a  simple  Spanish  sauce,  or  as  the  foundation  for 
various  fish  and  meat  sauces. 


Chateaubriand  Sauce. 

Use  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  one  gill  of  sherry,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  little  pepper. 

Beat  the  butter,  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  pepper  together ; 
then  add  the  parsley.  When  ready,  to  serve,  add  this 
mixture  and  the  wine  to  the  hot  sauce;  stir  for  one 
minute,  and  serve. 

Financiere  Sauce. 

Use  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  one  gill  of  essence  of 
chicken,  one  cupful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  one  small 
box  of  truffles,  chopped  fine.  Put  all  the  ingredients 
together,  and  let  them  simmer  for  one  hour ;  strain,  and 
the  sauce  will  be  ready  for  use. 

The  materials  that  remain  in  the  strainer  may  be  put 
into  a  stew-pan,  with  three  pints  of  any  kind  of  stock, 
and  simmered  for  two  hours  or  longer.  This  will  give 
a  strong  flavor  of  the  mushrooms  and  truffles.  This 
stock  may  be  usecl  for  any  kind  of  sauce. 


MEAT   AND  FISH  SAUCES.  465 

Madeira  Sauce. 

To  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  add  one  gill  of  Sicily 
Madeira.  This  sauce  is  used  with  baked  fish  and  with 
game. 

Venison  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  stew-pan  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly,  one  of  lemon  juice,  and 
one  gill  of  port  wine. 

Place  on  the  fire,  and  cook  until  the  jelly  is  melted. 
Stir  frequently. 

Olive  Brown  Sauce. 

Stone  two  dozen  olives.  Cook  them  for  half  an  hour 
in  water  or  stock  enough  to  cover  them.  Drain  them ; 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  pint  of  Spanish  or  brown 
sauce  ;  simmer  for  five  minutes. 

This  sauce  is  suitable  for  broiled  steak,  roast  duck, 
or  any  entre"e  of  poultry  or  game  where  olives  may  be 
used. 

Duxelles  Sauce. 

For  this,  use  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  one  cupful  of 
minced  mushrooms,  one  table-spoonful  each  of  minced 
onion  and  parsley,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Put  the  butter  and  vegetables  into  a  stew-pan ;  cook 
over  a  moderate  fire  for  ten  minutes;  stir  frequently. 
During  the  last  two  minutes  stir  constantly,  and  have 
the  stew-pan  over  a  hotter  part  of  the  fire.  Add  this 
mixture  to  the  Spanish  sauce.  Simmer  for  three  minutes, 
and  serve.  This  sauce  is  suitable  for  rich  entrees  or 
steaks. 

Mushroom  Brown  Sauce. 

For  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sauce,  use  one  quart  of  rich 
consomme",  half  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms,  or  one  can 


466          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  a  half  of  mushrooms,  one  sour  apple,  baked,  six 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  five  of  flour,  a  slight  grating 
of  nutmeg,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  and  place  it  on  the 
fire;  when  hot  and  beginning  to  brown,  add  the  flour, 
and  stir  until  a  dark  brown.  Draw  the  stew-pan  back 
to  a  cool  place,  and  stir  until  the  contents  are  slightly 
cooled.  Add  gradually  the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils ; 
then  add  the  seasoning,  the  baked  apple,  and  half  a  cup- 
ful of  chopped  mushrooms.  Set  back  where  the  sauce 
will  just  bubble  at  one  side  of  the  stew-pan  for  two 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  skim  off  the  butter, 
and  strain  the  sauce  into  another  stew-pan.  Add  the 
remainder  of  the  mushrooms  and  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  consomme. 

If  the  mushrooms  be  fresh,  they  must  be  pared  and 
cut  into  small  pieces.  They  should  simmer  for  ten 
minutes  in  the  hot  sauce.  If  canned  mushrooms  be 
used,  they  may  be  cooked  whole,  and  only  for  five 
minutes. 

Simple  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Make  a  plain  brown  sauce ;  add  one  can  of  mushrooms 
to  it,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes. 


Mushroom  White  Sauce. 

Make  a  white  sauce;   after  straining,  add  a  can  of 
mushrooms,  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 


Supreme   Sauce. 

For  one  quart  of  this  sauce  use  one  pint  of  rich  chicken 
stock,  two  pounds  of  shin  of  veal,  one  quart  of  water, 
one  teacupful  of  butter,  five  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one 
small  onion,  one  slice  of  carrot,  two  cloves,  a  bit  of  mace, 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  467 

a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  one  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  pars- 
ley, two  level  teaspooufuls  of  salt,  one-third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  chopped 
mushrooms. 

Cut  the  veal  in  small  pieces,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan 
with  the  quart  of  cold  water,  the  spice  and  vegetables. 
Cook  slowly  for  four  hours.  Strain,  and  put  away  to 
cool ;  when  cool,  skim  carefully.  Add  this  stock  (which 
should  be  a  clear  jelly)  to  the  chicken  stock.  Put  the 
butter  into  a  stew-pan,  and  on  the  fire ;  when  it  be- 
comes hot,  but  not  brown,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until 
smooth  and  frothy.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  stir  until 
the  mixture  cools  slightly ;  then  gradually  add  the  veal 
and  chicken  stocks.  Stir  until  this  boils;  add  the 
chopped  mushrooms,  salt,  and  pepper.  Move  the  sauce- 
pan back  where  the  heat  will  be  just  enough  to  keep 
the  sauce  bubbling  at  one  side  of  the  pan.  Cook  with  the 
cover  off  the  stew-pan  for  two  hours ;  then  skim  off  the 
butter  and  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve. 

This  sauce  should  be  clear  and  velvety.  To  obtain  this 
result,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  stock  used 
rich  and  clear,  and  to  have  the  simmering  done  slowly. 

*  Brown  Sauce. 

For  one  pint  of  sauce  use  one  pint  of  clear  brown 
stock,  three  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three 
level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  of  chopped  onion,  one 
of  chopped  carrot,  one  clove,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  little  pepper. 

Cook  the  vegetables  and  the  butter  together,  slowly, 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  draw  the  stew-pan  forward  to  a 
hot  part  of  the  range.  Stir  until  the  preparation  is 
slightly  browned ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  that 
is  browned.  Draw  the  stew-pan  back,  and  let  it  cool 
slightly,  stirring  the  contents  all  the  while;  gradually 
add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Add  the  salt, 


468          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

pepper,  and  clove,  and  set  the  stew-pan  back  where  the 
mixture  will  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain,  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  serve. 

This  gives  a  somewhat  thick  sauce.  If  a  thinner  sauce 
be  liked,  use  only  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  This 
sauce  may  have  added  to  it  the  trimmings  of  mushrooms, 
a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  or,  indeed,  any  seasoning 
that  one  may  choose. 

*  Brown  Sauce  for  Fish. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  pork  fat  into  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  when  it  is  melted,  add  two  slices  of  onion,  one 
of  carrot,  a  bay  leaf,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley.  Stir  for 
three  minutes;  then  add  a  heaping  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  becomes  dark  brown.  Add 
a  cupful  of  stock,  and  cook  three  minutes  longer.  Sea- 
son with  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Clear  Brown  Sauce. 

Use  a  table-spoonful  of  beef  extract,  one  table-spoonful 
and  a  half  of  arrowroot,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  water, 
a  clove,  a  bay  leaf,  a  small  slice  of  onion,  a  thin  slice  of 
carrot  about  the  size  of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Mix  the  arrowroot  with  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  for  five  minutes;  then  add  all  the  other  in- 
gredients except  the  butter;  and  after  cooking  gently 
for  ten  minutes,  add  the  butter.  Boil  up  once,  and 
strain. 

In  this  sauce  consomme  may  be  substituted  for  the 
beef  extract  and  water. 

*  A  Simple  Sauce  for  Poultry. 

Use  a  pint  of  stock  (the  water  in  which  a  fowl  was 
boiled,  or  gtpck  made  by  covering  the  bones  of  roast 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  469 

chicken  with  cold  water  and  cooking  them  for  two 
hours),  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  a  slice  of  onion  the 
size  of  half  a  dollar,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  clove,  a  tiny  bit 
of  mace,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour, 
a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  the  butter  and  flour  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  rub 
them  until  creamy ;  then  add  the  stock,  vegetables,  and 
spice,  and  place  the  pan  on  the  fire.  Stir  the  mixture 
occasionally  until  it  begins  to  boil ;  then  set  it  back 
where  it  will  just  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  add  the  dressing  and  cream  or  milk.  Let 
the  sauce  boil  up  once ;  then  strain  it,  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  use.  It  will  be  found  nice  to  serve  with  boiled 
fowl  or  to  warm  cold  poultry  in,  giving  a  delicious  fri- 
cassee. Cold  veal  also  may  be  warmed  in  it.  If  one 
intend  to  do  this,  the  bones  and  hard  bits  of  veal  should 
be  boiled  for  stock.  If  one  choose,  the  quantity  of 
butter  mentioned  at  the  outset  may  be  reduced  one-half, 
but  in  that  case  the  flour  must  be  wet  with  stock  when 
it  is  put  into  the  saucepan. 

*  White  Sauce. 

Into  a  frying-pan  put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  of  chopped  onion,  one  of  chopped  carrot,  two  of 
chopped  celery,  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley  and  a  sprig 
of  thyme,  and  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  being 
careful  not  to  brown ;  then  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Draw  the  pan 
back  to  a  cooler  place,  and  gradually  add  a  pint  of  white 
stock.  Stir  until  smooth,  and  then  add  salt  and  pepper. 
Boil  for  five  minutes,  and  add  half  a  cupful  of  cream 
or  milk.  Boil  up  once,  and  after  straining,  use  it.  This 
is  good  for  boiled  fish  or  poultry,  and  is  also  a  nice  sauce 
in  which  to  heat  cold  fish  or  meat. 


470          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Another  receipt :  Use  a  cupful  of  white  stock,  a  cupful 
of  cream,  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  of 
lemon  juice,  two  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together,  slowly,  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until  the  mixture 
is  smooth  and  frothy,  —  probably  about  half  a  minute  will 
suffice.  At  this  point  gradually  add  the  stock ;  and  after 
simmering  for  ten  minutes,  put  in  the  cream,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Boil  up  once,  and  strain  through  a  sieve  ;  then 
add  the  lemon  juice. 

This  sauce  is  nice  for  boiled,  baked,  and  broiled  fish, 
and  is  quite  necessary  for  the  finishing  touch  to  halibut 
a  la  poulette.  Make  it  while  the  fish  is  baking. 

*Poulette  Sauce. 

This  is  nice  with  boiled  fowl  or  boiled  fish,  and  may 
be  used  with  any  kind  of  delicate  meat,  fish,  or  vege- 
tables. To  make  it,  take  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  pint 
of  stock  or  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  smooth  and 
light ;  then  add  the  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice.  Grad- 
ually pour  the  boiling  stock  or  water  upon  this  mixture, 
and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Meanwhile  beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  in  a  small  saucepan.  Gradually  pour  the 
sauce  upon  them.  Set  the  saucepan  in  another  contain- 
ing boiling  water,  and  stir  for  a  minute  and  a  half ;  then 

remove  from  the  stove  without  delay. 

' 

Bechamel  Yellow  Sauce. 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
and  beat  to  a  cream ;  then  add  three  level  table-spoonfuls 


MEAT  AND  FISH   SAUCES.  471 

of  flour,  and  beat  both  articles  together.  Add  ten  pepper- 
corns, a  small  piece  of  mace,  a  small  slice  of  carrot,  half 
an  onion,  and  a  pint  of  white  stock.  Tie  together  a  bay 
leaf,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  one  of  thyme,  and  put  the 
bunch  into  the  saucepan  with  the  other  ingredients. 
Simmer  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  strain,  and  put  over 
the  fire  again.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  meet  your  taste.  Beat  together  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  and  half  a  cupful  of  cold  cream.  Stir  this 
mixture  into  the  sauce ;  and  after  the  sauce  has  been 
heated  to  the  boiling-point,  cook  two  minutes  longer, 
stirring  all  the  time. 

Sauce  Allemand. 

Pat  into  a  saucepan  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
slice  of  carrot,  one  of  turnip,  two  of  onion,  two  cloves,  a 
small  piece  of  mace,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  one  bay  leaf, 
and  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  being  careful  not  to 
brown;  then  add  two  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy,  at-  which  time  add  a 
pint  of  white  stock,  very  slowly.  Let  the  sauce  boil 
gently  for  five  minutes  ;  then  strain  it,  and  return  to  the 
fire.  Beat  together  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  half  a  cup- 
ful of  cream.  Add  to  the  sauce  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg,  one  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 
Place  the  basin  containing  the  sauce  in  another  of  boiling 
water.  Stir  the  beaten  cream  and  eggs  into  the  sauce, 
and  cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Ee- 
move  from  the  fire,  and  stir  into  the  sauce  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon.  Use  the  sauce  at  once. 

Dutch  Sauce. 

Rub  together  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  two 
scant  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  until  they  become  smooth 
and  creamy;  then  add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  white 


472          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

stock,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Season  with  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  with 
half  a  cupful  of  cream.  Set  the  basin  containing  these 
ingredients  into  another  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  con- 
stantly for  three  minutes ;  and  after  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice  has  been  added,  the  sauce  is  finished  by 
straining.  It  is  delicious  with  any  kind  of  fish. 

Bearnaise  Sauce. 

This  sauce  is  made  of  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  chopped  pars- 
ley and  tarragon,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  hot  cup,  and  stir  until  soft  and 
creamy.  Put  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  salt  and 
pepper  into  a  small  granite-ware  or  tin  saucepan,  and 
beat  with  a  Dover  beater  until  the  eggs  beconie  light ; 
then  add  the  butter  in  three  parts,  beating  each  time 
until  the  mixture  is  smooth.  Now  add  the  vinegar,  and 
beat  again.  Chop  the  tarragon  and  parsley,  to  have  it 
ready  for  use. 

Place  the  saucepan  containing  the  sauce  in  another  of 
boiling  water,  and  cook  for  three  minutes,  beating  con- 
stantly with  an  egg-beater.  Take  from  the  fire  at  the 
end  of  that  time,  and  add  the  chopped  parsley  and 
tarragon.  Of  course,  when  tarragon  is  out  of  season, 
parsley  must  suffice.  The  sauce  should  be  used  as  soon 
as  finished. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. 

For  half  a  pint  of  sauce  use  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  the  yolks  of  four 
uncooked  eggs,  one  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  lemon 
juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-tenth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne. 


MEAT  AND  FISH   SAUCES.  473 

Fill  a  pint  bowl  with  warm  water ;  immediately  pour 
out  the  water  and  wipe  the  bowl.  Put  the  butter  into 
the  bowl,  and  beat  it  until  soft  and  creamy;  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  and  beat  until  they  are 
blended  with  the  butter ;  add  the  lemon  juice  and  the 
salt  and  pepper,  and  beat  until  again  smooth.  Then 
take  out  the  spoon,  and  beat  the  mixture  with  the  Dover 
beater  for  five  minutes.  Place  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water,  being  careful  not  to  have  the  water  come 
so  high  that  it  will  boil  into  the  bowl  j  add  one-third  of 
a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the  sauce  is  as 
thick  as  a  Mayonnaise  sauce,  beating  constantly  with  the 
Dover  beater.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve. 

This  sauce  may  be  served  with  all  kinds  of  fish,  with 
iillets  and  steaks,  and  also  with  some  vegetables.  When 
it  is  served  with  boiled  fish,  half  a  pint  of  shrimp  or 
lobster,  cut  into  dice,  may  be  added  to  it.  Or,  if  con- 
venient, a  table-spoonful  of  ravigote  may  be  added  to  it. 

Ravigote. 

This  is  a  combination  of  four  herbs.  It  is  used  in 
sauces  and  salads.  Mince  separately  one  table-spoonful 
each  of  chives,  chervil,  tarragon,  and  burnet.  Mix  them 
together,  and  you  have  a  ravigote.  The  meaning  of  the 
word  is  "  to  revive,  strengthen,  or  invigorate." 

Ravigote  Butter. 

Put  half  a  cupful  of  butter  into  a  warm  bowl,  and  beat 
it  to  a  cream ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  one  table- spoonful  of  ravigote. 

This  butter  may  be  spread  on  broiled  fish  or  meat  of 
any  kind.  It  may  be  added  to  a  white  or  Bechamel 
sauce,  and  this  will  give  a  ravigote  sauce. 


474         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Ravigote  Sauce. 

For  this  there  will  be  needed  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  three  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  pepper- 
corns, half  a  good-sized  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  bit 
of  mace,  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
a  cupful  of  cream,  two  cupfuls  of  chicken  stock,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg, 
and  salt  and  pepper. 

Eub  together  the  flour  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
butter,  and  add  all  the  other  ingredients  except  the 
cream,  chopped  parsley,  and  the  remainder  of  the  butter. 
Simmer  for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  that  there  is  no 
burning.  In  the  mean  time  pound  the  spoonful  of 
butter  and  the  chopped  parsley  in  a  mortar,  and  when 
the  mixture  looks  rather  smooth  and  green,  scrape  all  of 
it  from  the  mortar  and  add  it  to  the  sauce.  Then  add 
the  cream  ;  and  if  there  be  not  seasoning  enough,  put  in 
a  little  more  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  sauce  boils  up, 
strain  it,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  is  a  delicious 
sauce  for  all  kinds  of  delicate  fish  and  meats. 

Chestnut  White  Sauce. 

Use  thirty  French  chestnuts,  one  pint  of  milk,  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  chestnuts.  Boil  them,  in  water 
enough  to  cover,  for  half  an  hour ;  drain  off  the  water, 
and  then  pound  the  nuts  to  a  paste.  Add  the  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  and  the  milk,  a  little  at  a  time,  pounding 
all  the  while;  rub  through  a  puree  sieve,  and  cook  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  double-boiler.  This  sauce  may  be 
served  with  boiled  turkey  or  fowl. 

Chestnut  Brown  Sauce, 

Use  thirty  French  chestnuts,  one  pint  of  brown  stock, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 


MEAT  AND  FISH   SAUCES.  475 

Shell,  blanch,  cook,  drain,  and  pound  the  chestnuts ; 
add  the  seasoning  and  the  stock,  a  little  at  a  time, 
pounding  all  the  while.  Rub  the  preparation  through  a 
sieve ;  put  the  mixture  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cook  gently 
for  half  an  hour.  Then  put  the  butter  on  the  fire  in  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot  and  beginning  to 
brown,  add  the  flour;  stir  until  the  mixture  is  a  dark 
brown,  and  then  add  it  to  the  chestnut  mixture.  Cook 
five  minutes,  and  serve.  This  sauce  is  suitable  for  roast 
turkey  or  chicken. 

Asparagus  Sauce. 

This  is  nice  to  serve  with  broiled  delicate  meats  or 
fish,  and  is  also  appropriate  for  use  with  roast  chicken. 
It  requires  the  tender  green  heads  from  a  bunch  of 
asparagus,  a  pint  of  white  stock,  a  slice  of  onion,  a  small 
slice  of  carrot,  a  bay  leaf,  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of 
flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Put  the  butter  and  flour  into  a  saucepan,  and  rub  them 
to  a  cream ;  then  add  the  seasoning  and  stock.  Heat 
the  mixture  slowly,  stirring  frequently ;  and  when  it 
begins  to  boil,  set  it  back  where  it  will  only  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes.  Meanwhile  wash  the  asparagus  tops, 
and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice  or  vinegar.  Cover  closely,  and  boil  for 
twelve  minutes ;  then  drain  off  the  water,  and  rub  the 
asparagus  through  a  fine  sieve.  Strain  upon  it  the  con- 
tents of  the  other  pan,  and  heat  to  the  boiling-point,  but 
not  beyond ;  for  much  cooking  would  destroy  the  deli- 
cate green  color  of  the  asparagus. 

*  Oyster  Sauce. 

This  is  made  of  a  solid  pint  of  oysters,  half  a  pint  of 
chicken  stock,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  four  table- 


476          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  in 
quantities  to  suit  the  taste. 

Put  the  stock  on  the  stove  to  boil,  and  set  the  oys- 
ters on  to  heat  in  their  own  liquor.  Beat  the  butter  and 
flour  together  until  light  and  creamy.  Pour  the  hot 
chicken  stock  on  the  mixture,  and  after  stirring  well,  set 
on  the  stove  to  simmer.  When  the  oysters  have  become 
heated  to  the  boiling-point,  skim  off  the  froth  and  put 
the  oysters  into  a  strainer.  Pour  the  oyster  liquor  into 
the  cooking  mixture,  being  careful  to  prevent  any  shells 
or  sand  from  passing  with  the  liquor.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  add  the  oysters,  some  salt  and  pepper,  and 
the  lemon  juice.  This  sauce  should  be  served  hot. 


Put  one  pint  of  small  oysters  into  a  stew-pan,  and  heat 
them  in  their  own  liquor  to  the  boiling-point.  As  soon 
as  they  begin  to  boil,  remove  from  the  fire  and  skim  care 
fully ;  then  drain  the  liquor  into  another  stew-pan.  Beat 
to  a  cream  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Add  to  the  oyster  liquor  one 
cupful  of  milk,  and  when  the  mixture  has  been  heated 
to  the  boiling-point,  stir  in  the  creamed  butter  and  flour. 
Let  the  sauce  boil  up  once,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper ;  then  add  the  oysters.  This  sauce  is  to  be  served 
with  boiled  fish. 

Lobster  Sauce. 

For  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sauce,  use  a  lobster  weighing 
two  and  a  half  pounds.  Make  the  lobster  butter  as 
directed  on  page  478. 

Cut  the  tender est  part  of  the  claws  into  dice.  Chop 
the  remainder  of  the  lobster  meat,  and  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  one  quart  of  water ;  simmer  for  one  hour.  Put 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan  on  the 
fire,  and  when  hot,  add  three  generous  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Then  add, 


MEAT   AND   FISH   SAUCES.  477 


gradually,  the  lobster  liquor,  stirring  all  the  while.  Stir 
until  the  mixture  boils ;  add  a  teaspoonf  ul  and  a  half  of 
salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  and  the  lobster  butter.  Cook  for  five 
minutes. 

Put  the  lobster  dice  into  a  small  saucepan ;  strain  the 
sauce  on  it,  and  place  on  the  fire.  Boil  up  once,  and 
serve.  This  sauce  may  be  served  with  any  kind  of  boiled 
fish. 

Shrimp  Sauce. 

After  beating  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  beat  until  light  and  smooth  ; 
then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovy  and 
one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Pour  upon  this  mix- 
ture a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Heat  the  sauce  to  the  boil- 
ing-point without  actually  allowing  it  to  boil ;  then  add 
half  a  pint  of  fresh  or  canned  shrimp,  with  the  tails  cut 
in  two,  and  a  grain  of  cayenne.  Let  the  sauce  get  very 
hot,  and  use  at  once. 

Use  two  dozen  shrimp,  and  proceed  as  for  lobster  sauce, 
using  half  a  dozen  of  the  shrimp  to  cut  into  dice  and 
add  last. 

Anchovy   Sauce. 

Put  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
place  on  the  fire.  When  the  butter  is  melted,  add  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy. 
Cool  a  little,  and  then  add,  gradually,  one  pint  of  white 
stock  or  water.  Stir  until  this  boils  ;  then  add  one- 
fourth  of  a  saltspoonful  each  of  white  and  cayenne 
pepper,  the  anchovy  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  and  salt  enough  to  season  the  sauce.  As  the  an- 
chovy butter  is  salted,  one  must  taste  the  sauce  to 
ascertain  how  much  salt  to  use.  This  sauce  may  be 
used  with  all  kinds  of  fish  dishes. 


478          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Anchovy  Butter. 

Pour  the  brine  from  a  bottle  of  anchovies,  and  soak 
the  fish  for  two  hours  in  cold  water.  Drain  and  wipe 
them.  Remove  the  bones,  and  place  the  fish  in  a  mortar, 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Pound  to  a  smooth 
paste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Work  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  grain  of 
cayenne  into  the  strained  mixture.  If  the  butter  is  to 
be  used  on  toast,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  may  be 
added.  This  butter  may  be  used  in  various  kinds  of 
fish  sauces. 

Shrimp   Butter. 

Use  five  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  dozen  shrimp, 
the  shells  of  the  shrimp,  and  a  grain  of  cayenne. 

Put  the  shells  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into 
the  mortar,  and  pound  to  a  powder.  Put  this  into  a 
small  saucepan,  and  place  this  in  another  containing  boil- 
ing water.  Cook  for  one  hour.  Press  the  mixture 
through  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  into  a  bowl  of  ice-water. 
It  will  form  in  little  cakes  on  the  water ;  skim  these  off. 
Put  the  meat  of  the  shrimp  and  the  two  remaining  spoon- 
fuls of  butter  into  the  mortar,  and  pound  to  a  paste. 
Add  the  red  butter,  which  was  obtained  by  pounding  and 
cooking  the  shells  and  butter  together.  Pound  a  little 
longer,  and  then  rub  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve. 

This  butter  gives  color  and  body  to  a  shrimp  sauce. 
If  lobster  coral  can  be  obtained,  pound  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  it  with  the  butter,  and  then  add  the  fish  and  the 
remainder  of  the  butter,  and  pound  all  together  until  a 
paste  is  formed.  Of  course,  the  shells  and  cooking  will 
not  be  necessary  in  this  case. 

Lobster   Butter. 

Pound  the  coral  of  a  lobster  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  until  a  smooth  paste  is  made  j  then  add  three 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  479 

table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  lobster  and  one  of  butter, 
and  continue  pounding  until  the  whole  mass  is  a  smooth 
paste.  Rub  this  through  a  fine  sieve.  This  butter  is 
used  in  lobster  soups  and  sauces  to  give  color  and  rich- 
ness. Should  there  be  no  coral,  pound  small  lobster 
claws  and  the  butter  together,  and  proceed  as  for  shrimp 
butter. 

Tartar  Green  Sauce. 

The  yolks  of  two  uncooked  eggs,  one  gill  and  a  half  of 
olive  oil,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  two  of  vine- 
gar, one  of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
capers,  two  of  cucumber  pickles,  one  of  butter,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  will  be  needed. 

Put  the  chopped  parsley  and  the  butter  into  the  mortar, 
and  pound  until  the  mixture  is  a  smooth  paste ;  this 
will  require  hard  blows.  Then  rub  the  paste  through  a 
small  strainer ;  the  strainer  will  be  used  again  for  the 
pickles  and  capers.  Pound  the  capers  and  pickles  to  a 
paste  in  the  mortar,  and  rub  them  through  the  strainer 
into  the  same  bowl  with  the  parsley  and  butter.  Keep 
this  mixture  cool.  Put  a  small  smooth-bottomed  bowl 
in  a  tin  pan,  and  surround  it  with  cold  water  about  an 
inch  deep  ;  add  a  few  pieces  of  ice.  Put  the  dry  ingre- 
dients and  the  yolks  of  eggs  into  the  bowl.  Beat  with 
the  Dover  beater  until  the  mixture  is  thick  and  ropy ; 
it  will  take  from  three  to  five  minutes  for  this.  Then 
add  the  oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  mixture  is 
so  thick  that  the  beater  turns  with  difficulty ;  then  add 
the  oil  in  larger  quantities,  say  a  table-spoonful  at  a 
time.  When  the  mixture  is  thick,  add  one  teaspoonful 
of  the  vinegar ;  continue  in  this  way  until  all  the  oil  and 
vinegar  are  used ;  then  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  finally 
the  onion  juice  and  the  strained  mixture. 

This  sauce  should  be  thick  and  smooth  when  done. 


480          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

It  surely  will  be  a  success  if  the  dry  mixture  and  yolks 
of  eggs  be  beaten  thick  before  the  oil  is  added,  and  if 
the  oil  be  added  only  a  few  drops  at  a  time  until 
the  mixture  is  thick  and  ropy.  After  this  the  oil  may 
be  added  in  generous  quantities.  Unless  the  first  of  the 
work  be  done  right,  no  amount  of  care  later  will  give  a 
thick,  smooth  sauce. 

Tartar  Butter  Sauce. 

Use  the  yolks  of  three  uncooked  eggs,  three-fourths  of 
a  cupful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fifth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one 
table-spoonful  of  mustard,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  vine- 
gar, one  of  lemon  juice,  one  generous  table-spoonful  each 
of  chopped  cucumber  pickles  and  capers. 

Pour  boiling  water  into  a  small  bowl,  and  immediately 
turn  it  out  again.  Wipe  the  bowl  and  put  the  butter  in 
it.  With  a  spoon  beat  the  butter  to  a  smooth  soft  cream. 
Put  the  egg  yolks  and  the  dry  ingredients  into  another 
bowl,  and  beat  rapidly  for  five  minutes  with  the  Dover 
beater ;  then  add  the  creamed  butter,  a  spoonful  at  a 
time.  Beat  well  after  the  addition  of  each  spoonful. 
When  all  the  butter  has  been  used,  add  the  vinegar  and 
lemon  juice,  a  little  at  a  time,  beating  very  thoroughly 
after  each  portion  is  added.  When  the  mixture  is  smooth 
and  light,  add  the  chopped  ingredients.  This  sauce  is 
nice  with  fried  or  broiled  meat  or  fish. 

Remoulade  Sauce. 

Use  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  the  yolk  of 
one  raw  egg,  a  scant  half-pint  of  oil,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  three  of  plain  vinegar,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley. 

Work  the  cooked  yolks  of  the  eggs  with  a  fork  on  a 
plate  until  they  are  perfectly  smooth  j  then  put  them 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  481 

into  a  bowl  with  the  uncooked  yolk  and  the  seasoning. 
Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  vinegar,  and  beat  with 
the  Dover  beater  for  five  minutes.  Then  add  the  oil, 
a  teaspoonful  at  a  time,  beating  two  or  three  minutes 
between  each  addition  to  the  mixture.  After  five  tea- 
spoonfuls  have  been  added  in  this  manner  the  oil  may 
be  added  in  quantities  three  or  four  times  as  large. 
Whenever  the  sauce  becomes  so  thick  that  the  beater 
turns  hard,  add  half  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar.  When 
all  the  oil  and  vinegar  have  been  used,  add  the  chopped 
parsley.  This  sauce  is  suitable  for  fried  and  broiled 
meat  or  fish  j  it  is  used  also  as  a  dressing  for  salads. 

*  Soubise  Sauce. 

This  is  made  of  a  pint  of  pared  and  sliced  white  onions, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  gill  of  white  stock, 
two  gills  of  milk  or  cream,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  . 

Put  the  onion  into  a  stew-pan  with  one  quart  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Then,  after 
draining  off  all  the  water,  add  the  sugar  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  butter.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  set  it 
where  its  contents  will  cook  slowly  for  one  hour,  being 
careful  that  they  do  not  become  browned.  At  the  end 
of  the  hour  rub  the  onion  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return 
the  strained  mixture  to  the  stew-pan,  and  after  adding 
the  stock,  milk,  salt,  and  pepper,  set  the  pan  on  the  fire. 
Now  beat  together  the  flour  and  the  two  remaining  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  stir  this  mixture  into  that  which 
is  in  the  pan  when  the  latter  boils.  Cook  for  five  min- 
utes, stirring  frequently,  and  have  it  very  hot  when  it  is 
poured  around  the  meat.  This  sauce  is  served  with 
mutton  or  pork. 

Breton  Sauce. 

Use  one  generous  pint  of  peeled  and  sliced  onion,  one 
pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 

31 


482          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  the  butter,  onions,  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper  into  a 
small  frying-pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  one  hour,  stirring 
frequently.  At  the  end  of  that  time  draw  the  pan  for- 
ward, and  stir  the  onion  constantly  until  it  is  brown; 
then  rub  it  through  a  strainer  into  a  saucepan ;  add  the 
Spanish  sauce,  place  on  the  fire,  and  stir  constantly  until 
the  sauce  boils.  This  sauce  is  served  with  roast,  broiled, 
or  breaded  mutton. 

*  Butter  Sauce. 

Beat  together  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour.  Pour  on  this  mixture  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir 
constantly  until  the  sauce  boils ;  then  take  from  the  fire 
immediately. 

*  Egg  Sauce. 

Stir  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  rather  fine,  into 
the  butter  sauce. 

*  Cream  Sauce. 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  place  on  the  fire.  When  the  butter  is  hot,  add  two 
level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  this  until  smooth  and 
frothy ;  then  draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  one 
pint  of  cold  milk.  Eeplace  the  pan  on  a  hot  part  of 
the  stove,  and  stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  about  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper;  simmer  three  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  A  few  drops  of  onion  juice  will  improve  this  sauce. 

A  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley  may  be  added  when 
this  sauce  is  to  be  used  for  fish  or  potatoes. 

*  Bread  Sauce. 

Use  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  dry  bread,  one  pint  of 
stock,  a  large  slice  of  onion,  two  generous  table-spoonful* 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  488 

of  butter,  one  teaspoonf ill  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

Put  the  bread  on  a  board,  and  crush  it  lightly  with  a 
rolling-pin.  Put  this  into  a  sieve,  and  sift  all  the  fine 
crumbs  through ;  there  should  be  half  a  cupful  of  these. 
Put  them  in  the  double-boiler,  with  the  onion,  salt, 
pepper,  and  stock ;  cook  for  half  an  hour ;  at  the  end 
of  that  time  take  out  the  onion,  and  add  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  the  butter.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

While  the  sauce  is  cooking,  put  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  place  on  the  fire.  When  the 
butter  is  hot,  add  the  coarse  crumbs  that  did  not  go 
through  the  sieve.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the  crumbs 
are  brown  and  crisp.  This  work  must  be  done  carefully 
in  order  that  the  crumbs  shall  be  crisp  and  brown  and 
yet  not  be  burned. 

Bread  sauce  is  served  with  grouse,  quail,  partridge, 
ptarmigan,  roast  chicken,  and  turkey.  The  sauce  and 
fried  crumbs  may  be  served  in  separate  dishes ;  or  the 
sauce  may  be  spread  on  a  meat  dish,  and  the  birds  be 
placed  on  this,  and  the  birds  and  sauce  sprinkled  with 
the  crumbs.  If  stock  cannot  be  obtained,  substitute  a 
generous  pint  of  milk. 

*• 
*  Tomato  Sauce. 

Use  one  pint  of  stewed  and  strained  tomatoes,  half  a 
pint  of  stock,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  gener- 
ous table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  slice  of  onion,  one  of 
carrot,  one  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cook  the  butter,  onion,  and  carrot  together  for  ten 
minutes ;  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  frothy ;  then  add" 
the  stock,  stirring  all  the  while.  When  smooth,  add  the 
tomato,  salt,  and  pepper.  Simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  strain, 

and  serve. 

. 


484          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


*  Matelote   Sauce. 

The  materials  of  which  this  sauce  is  made  are :  a  pint 
of  stock,  an  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
of  flour,  two  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Put  the  sugar  into  a  stew-pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins 
to  smoke,  add  the  butter,  and  then  the  onion  and  carrot, 
cut  fine.  Cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ;  then  add  the 
flour,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Now  add  the  stock,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  after  boiling  up  once,  set  back  where 
the  sauce  will  only  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  strain  it,  and  add  the  lemon  juice  and 
parsley.  Boil  two  minutes  longer. 

*  Hot  Mustard   Sauce. 

For  a  generous  half-pint  of  sauce,  use  one  table-spoon- 
ful each  of  mustard,  butter,  flour,  and  tarragon  vinegar, 
one  slice  of  onion,  one  clove  of  garlic,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half  a 
pint  of  stock,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Cook  the  butter,  onion,  garlic,  and  vinegar  over  a 
rather  hot  fire  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  flour,  and 
stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Draw  the  saucepan  back 
to  a  cooler  part  of  the  fire,  and  gradually  add  the  stock. 
Mix  the  mustard  with  the  cold  water,  and  add  this  and 
the  salt  and  pepper  to  the  sauce.  Boil  for  five  minutes ; 
strain,  and  serve.  This  sauce  is  for  roast  beef  or  veal. 

*  Mustard  Cream  Sauce. 

This  is  made  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  grain  of 
cayenne.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler. 


MEAT   AND   FISH   SAUCES.  485 


Beat  the  butter,  flour,  and  mustard  to  a  cream,  and  grad- 
ually pour  upon  this  cream  the  boiling  milk.  Add  the 
salt  and  pepper,  and  put  the  sauce  on  the  stove  in  the 
double-boiler,  to  cook  gently  for  three  minutes.  It  will 
be  found  nice  to  serve  with  roast  clams  as  well  as  with 
baked  crabs. 

*  Horseradish   Sauce. 

. 

Mix  together  two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish, 
one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  vin- 
egar, four  of  cream,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Serve 
with  roast  beef  or  cold  or  broiled  veal. 


Currant-Jelly  Sauce. 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  chopped 
onion  into  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  until  the  onion  begins 
to  brown ;  then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  bay  leaf,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  and  two  whole  cloves.  Stir  until  the 
mixture  becomes  dark  brown,  and  then  slowly  add  three 
gills  of  soup  stock.  When  the  sauce  boils  up,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  cupful  of  currant 
jelly,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  After  sim- 
mering for  three  minutes,  strain  and  use  it.  This  sauce 
is  for  venison. 

Claret  Sauce. 

The  materials  required  are  a  tumbler  of  stock,  a  tum- 
bler of  claret,  half  a  tumbler  of  currant  jelly,  four  cloves, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  bay  leaf. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  gets  hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until 
it  turns  brown ;  then  draw  the  pan  to  the  back  part 
of  the  range,  and  gradually  add  the  stock.  Let  the  sauce 
boil  up ;  then  add  all  the  other  ingredients  except  the 


486          MISS  PABLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

claret.  Let  the  sauce  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
then  add  the  wine,  and  boil  up  once.  Strain  the  sauce, 
and  serve  it  hot. 

Orange  Sauce. 

This  is  designed  to  go  with  roast  duck.  In  making 
enough  for  a  pair  of  ducks,  take  half  a  pint  of  stock,  two 
large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  large  slice  of  onion, 
the  juice  and  a  quarter  of  the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange, 
a  grain  of  cayenne,  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together  until  the  latter 
begins  to  turn  yellow ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until 
the  mixture  becomes  dark  brown.  Draw  the  frying-pan 
to  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  and  gradually  add  the  half- 
pint  of  stock.  Now  add  the  orange  rind,  salt,  pepper, 
and  sugar.  Let  the  sauce  simmer  for  ten  minutes  ;  then 
add  the  orange  juice,  and  cook  two  minutes  longer. 
Strain  and  use. 

If  you  cannot  get  a  Seville  orange,  use  the  juice  of  a 
common  orange  and  one-fourth  of  the  rind,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Or  the  grape  fruit, 
which  resembles  the  shaddock,  will  answer;  it  has  a 
little  of  the  peculiar  bitter  flavor  that  makes  the  Seville 
orange  desirable. 

Sometimes  half  a  pint  of  clear  stock  is  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  gill  of  port ;  then  the  juice  of  half  an 
orange  is  added;  the  remaining  half  of  the  orange  is 
freed  of  skin  and  cut  into  bits ;  and  after  the  sauce  has 
boiled  up  once,  these  morsels  of  fruit  are  added,  and  it 
is  served  hot  with  roast  duck. 

*  Piquant  Sauce. 

This  is  intended  to  be  an  accompaniment  for  roast  and 
broiled  meats,  and  some  kinds  of  fish.  It  makes  an 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES.  487 

agreeable  change  from  mint  sauce,  when  served  with 
roast  lamb.  The  ingredients  are :  a  pint  of  stock,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  four  of  vinegar, 
one  of  chopped  onion,  two  of  chopped  capers,  two  of 
chopped  cucumber  pickle,  one  teas^oonful  of  sugar,  one 
of  salt,  and  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
it  gets  hot  and  begins  to  turn  brown,  add  the  flour. 
Stir  the  mixture  until  the  flour  is  dark  brown;  then 
draw  the  pan  back  to  a  cooler  place,  and  gradually  add 
the  stock,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add  also  the  salt  and 
pepper,  and  draw  the  pan  to  a  place  where  its  contents 
will  boil  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Meanwhile  put  the 
onion,  vinegar,  and  sugar  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  rap- 
idly for  five  minutes ;  and  at  the  end  of  the  ten  minutes 
mentioned  in  the  preceding  sentence,  add  these  ingre- 
dients to  the  sauce,  together  with  the  capers  and  pickle. 
Boil  rapidly  for  three  minutes,  and  the  work  will  be 
finished. 

*  Caper  Sauce. 

Beat  to  a  cream  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  half 
a  cupful  of  butter,  and  pour  upon  it  a  pint  of  boiling 
water.  Set  the  mixture  over  the  fire,  and  stir  constantly 
until  it  has  become  heated  to  the  boiling-point.  Season 
with  a  little  white  pepper  and  a  grain  of  cayenne,  and 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  three  of  capers. 

*  Parsley  Butter. 

Beat  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and 
then  add  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  of 
chopped  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one- 
eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Beat  these  ingre- 
dients into  the  butter,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  It 
is  nice  to  spread  upon  fried  or  broiled  fish,  and  also  over 
potato  balls.  When  intended  for  the  latter,  however, 
half  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  will  be  enough. 


488          MISS  PARLQA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Mint  Sauce. 

After  rinsing  some  mint  in  cold  water,  place  it  on  a 
board,  and  chop  it  fine  with  a  sharp  knife.  Put  with  a 
quarter  of  a  cupful  of  mint,  half  a  cupful  of  vinegar  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  The  sauce  should  stand  at 
least  ten  minutes  before  it  is  used. 

*  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Pick  over  and  wash  a  quart  of  cranberries,  and  after 
putting  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  scant  pint  of  water, 
and  pouring  a  pint  of  sugar  over  them,  cook  for  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  often.  Rinse  a  mould  with  cold  water, 
and  pour  the  stewed  cranberries  into  it.  Set  away  to 
cool  and  harden. 

*  Cranberry  Jelly. 

Pick  over  and  wash  a  quart  of  cranberries.  Put  the 
fruit  into  a  stew-pan,  —  either  porcelain-lined  or  granite- 
ware,  —  and  add  half  a  pint  of  water  and  a  pint  of  sugar. 
Heat  quickly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  stir  well,  press- 
ing the  berries  to  the  sides  of  the  stew-pan  to  crush 
them.  Cook  for  twelve  minutes  from  the  time  they 
begin  to  boil.  Kinse  a  mould  in  cold  water,  and  at  the 
end  of  the  twelve  minutes  press  the  mixture  through  a 
strainer.  Put  it  into  the  mould  immediately,  and  set 
away  to  harden.  As  soon  as  it  becomes  cold  it  will  be 
firm. 


VEGETABLES.  489 


VEGETABLES. 


Ix  the  past,  housekeepers  have  been  rather  neglectful 
of  opportunities  offered  by  vegetables  to  vary  the  family 
fare,  but  now-a-days,  happily,  they  give  considerable  at- 
tention to  the  subject.  The  cooking  of  vegetables  calls 
for  the  same  skill  and  taste  that  are  employed  in  making 
a  delicate  dessert.  Perfect  cleanliness,  cooking  the  veg- 
etable only  until  it  is  tender,  and  serving  it  with  salt 
and  sweet  butter  or  a  delicate  sauce,  are  the  things 
necessary  to  secure  perfection. 

During  the  fall  and  summer  all  kinds  of  vegetables 
should  be  abundant  in  every  part  of  the  country ;  but  for 
many  reasons  vegetables  often  are  scarce  and  poor  where 
they  should  be  plentiful  and  good.  Every  farmer  should 
set  apart  a  plat  of  his  warmest  and  richest  land  for  a 
kitchen  garden,  and  every  farmer's  wife  and  daughter 
should  know  when  vegetables  are  at  their  best,  and  also 
how  to  cook  them  in  the  best  manner. 


Neglect  to  Gather  Vegetables  soon  Enough. 

One  of  the  great  mistakes  which  American  gardeners 
make  consists  of  allowing  green  vegetables  to  grow  too 
large  and  rank  before  gathering  them.  Turnips,  carrots, 
beets,  radishes,  etc.,  should  be  gathered  while  they  are 
small  and  delicate  in  flavor.  String  beans  should  not 
be  picked  after  the  seed  begins  to  form  in  the  pod,  or 
they  will  be  found  tough  and  not  very  digestible  when 
cooked.  Pick  green  peas  before  they  are  fully  grown. 
When  allowed  to  grow  to  a  large  size,  they  acquire  a 
strong  flavor  and  become  less  digestible.  Of  course, 


490          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

such  varieties  as  the  marrowfats  and  champions  will  be 
both  large  and  tender.  Sweet  corn  should  have  the  ears 
just  filled,  but  the  kernels  should  be  tender  and  juicy. 

Vegetables  Best  if  Cooked  soon  after  Picking. 

It  is  surprising  what  a  difference  there  is  in  the  time 
required  for  cooking  many  vegetables  which  have  stood 
a  day  or  two  after  the  picking,  as  compared  with  those 
which  have  come  fresh  from  the  garden.  For  example, 
peas  that  are  picked  in  the  early  morning  for  use  the 
same  day  can  be  cooked  in  about  half  the  time  that 
would  be  needed  if  the  same  peas  were  kept  a  day  or 
longer.  Besides,  the  flavor  of  vegetables  that  are  cooked 
while  fresh  is  much  superior  to  that  of  those  which  have 
stood  for  some  time. 

Ears  of  green  corn  that  are  just  filled  will,  if  plunged 
into  boiling  water  as  soon  as  gathered,  cook  in  t#n 
minutes,  or  perhaps  in  less  time ;  while  the  same  corn,  if 
kept  for  one  or  two  days,  will  require  twice  as  much 
time  for  cooking,  and  will  not  be  so  tender  and  fine- 
flavored  as  if  cooked  at  once.  This  is  where  one  having 
a  garden  of  her  own  has  a  great  advantage  of  the  house- 
keeper who  is  obliged  to  get  her  supplies  from  the 
market.  Eating  green  peas  and  corn  in  the  country 
spoils  one  for  anything  that  can  be  bought  in  a  city 
market. 

A  piece  of  cooking-soda  about  the  size  of  a  pea  will,  if 
added  to  a  quart  of  peas  or  beans,  make  them  tenderer 
and  preserve  the  green  color.  It  should  not  be  added 
until  the  vegetables  are  half  cooked. 

Points  to  be  Remembered. 

Some  of  the  summer  vegetables  last  a  long  time,  and 
others  only  a  few  weeks.  Gardeners  obtain  fresh  peas 
and  beans  throughout  the  season  by  planting  more  than 


VEGETABLES.  491 


one  crop ;  therefore  housekeepers  will  do  wisely  to 
avoid  having  either  so  frequently  at  the  outset  as  to  be- 
come tired  of  them  before  half  the  summer  has  gone. 
Remember,  always,  that  a  great  variety  of  vegetables  at 
any  meal  is  secondary  to  both  freshness  and  perfect 
cooking.  There  is  no  sauce  for  vegetables  which  can 
rival  sweet  butter  and  a  little  salt.  When  fresh  vege- 
tables are  to  be  cooked  the  water  should  be  boiling  when 
they  are  put  into  it,  and  salt  should  not  be  added  until 
the  cooking  is  nearly  finished.  The  articles  should  be 
served  promptly  after  they  have  been  over  the  fire  the 
prescribed  time,  for  the  most  delicate  will  become  dark 
and  strong-flavored  if  cooked  too  long. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  that  freshness  and  flavor  may 
be,  in  a  measure,  restored  to  wilted  vegetables  by  the 
use  of  ice-water. 

Time  was  when  all  the  Northern  markets  depended 
upon  the  South  for  most  of  the  fresh  vegetables  that 
were  sold  after  the  frost  came ;  now,  however,  there  are 
dealers  who  raise  the  greater  part  of  such  vegetables 
in  hot-houses  and  cold  frames,  so  that  one  may  get 
tomatoes,  cucumbers,  Brussels  sprouts,  spinach,  lettuce, 
radishes,  mushrooms,  etc.,  picked  fresh  each  day  for  the 
market.  This  is  true,  also,  of  the  many  salads,  whicli 
are  not  so  well  known  as  they  should  be.  But,  after 
all,  it  is  only  the  rich  who  can  afford  to  buy  the  forced 
vegetables.  The  housekeeper  of  moderate  means  may, 
nevertheless,  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  a  variety,  for  there 
are  vegetables  in  abundance  and  at  very  reasonable 
prices  ;  the  only  difficulty  lies  in  their  proper  prepara- 
tion for  the  table. 

Few  housekeepers  are  familiar  with  the  changes  that 
take  place  in  the  tuberous  vegetables  as  the  season 
advances,  and  continue  to  cook  them  as  if  they  were 
fresh  from  the  garden.  The  carrots,  turnips,  potatoes, 
onions,  and  cabbages  that  were  crisp  and  delicate  wheu 
stored  in  the  fall  become  somewhat  wilted  and  quite 


492          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


strong-flavored  by  spring,  and  should  stand  in  cold  water 
for  several  hours  before  being  cooked. 

Carrots,  turnips,  onions,  and  cabbage  should  be 
cooked  in  a  great  deal  of  water,  — at  least  four  times  the 
quantity  of  vegetables,  —  and  should  be  boiled  only  long- 
enough  to  cook  them  thoroughly.  Continuing  to  boil 
vegetables  after  they  are  done,  or  cooking  them  in  an 
insufficient  quantity  of  water,  makes  them  dark  and 
gives  them  an  unsatisfactory  flavor.  The  average  house- 
keeper does  not  give  half  enough  attention  to  this 
matter. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  use  rice,  hominy,  and  macaroni  as 
vegetables  during  the  winter  and  early  spring.  Remem- 
ber that  fully  as  acceptable  a  variety  of  dishes  may  be 
obtained,  from  day  to  day,  by  cooking  a  small  number  of 
vegetables  in  divers  ways  as  by  cooking  a  large  number 
in  only  one  way.  Proper  cooking  and  good  modes  of 
serving  are  of  more  account  than  a  varied  selection  of 
materials. 

When  Various  Vegetables  may  be  Appropri- 
ately Used. 

Inexperienced  housekeepers  often  are  much  perplexed 
in  regard  to  vegetables  ;  they  cannot  easily  decide  what 
to  serve  with  various  kinds  of  meat  and  fish,  being 
doubtful  about  either  the  vegetables  themselves  or  the 
most  appropriate  ways  of  serving  them.  In  large  cities 
the  housekeeper  has  a  great  variety  of  vegetables  from 
which  to  select,  the  year  round.  Scattered  through  the 
twelvemonth  there  are  about  forty  kinds ;  and  when 
fresh  vegetables  cannot  be  had,  canned  goods  may  be 
obtained.  In  the  country  a  woman's  choice  is  more 
limited,  though  the  common  winter  vegetables,  supple- 
mented with  a  few  canned  articles,  permit  of  frequent 
changes  of  dishes.  Too  many  people  are  content  to  cook 
a  vegetable  always  by  the  same  mode.  To  the  average 


VEGETABLES.  493 


housekeeper  the  potato  appears  to  be  about  the  only 
vegetable  capable  of  being  served  in  a  variety  of  forms. 
Receipts  for  cooking  potatoes  are,  to  be  sure,  very  nu- 
merous, yet  many  rules  can  be  found  for  nearly  all  com- 
mon vegetables. 

In  American  families  of  moderate  means,  the  dinner 
seldom  consists  of  more  than  three  courses ;  indeed,  in  a 
majority  of  cases  there  may  be  only  two  courses,  —  meat 
or  fish  with  vegetables,  and  the  dessert.  The  number  of 
courses  increases  with  the  amount  of  style  in  which 
people  live,  though  one  will  find  that  among  refined 
folk  the  number  in  a  family  dinner  is  not  more  than  five 
or  six,  and  in  a  company  luncheon  or  dinner  not  more 
than  six  or  eight.  This  is  a  sensible  change.  Time  was 
when  about  a  dozen  courses  were  thought  to  be  a  neces- 
sity when  guests  were  to  be  entertained. 

In  a  two-course  dinner  several  kinds  of  vegetables  are 
served  at  the  outset,  whereas  in  a  dinner  of  many  courses 
only  one  kind  of  vegetable,  or  at  the  most  two  kinds, 
should  be  provided  with  each  dish  of  meat  or  fish. 

Fish.  —  There  may  be  served  with  baked,  boiled, 
broiled,  and  fried  fish,  potatoes  and  tomatoes  in  any 
form ;  also  cucumbers  and  green  peas.  When  fish  has 
curry  sauce  as  an  accompaniment,  it  also  should  have 
rice  ;  if  it  have  cream  sauce,  any  kind  of  potatoes  except 
fried  may  be  served,  besides  onions.  Fish  is,  however, 
such  a  delicate  dish  that  a  vegetable  of  pronounced 
flavor  should  not  be  served  with  it;  therefore  onions 
should  be  made  as  delicate  as  possible  by  boiling  in  a 
plentiful  supply  of  water,  changing  the  water  several 
times,  and  finally  adding  cream  sauce  to  the  vegetables. 
It  used  to  be  the  fashion  not  to  serve  anything  with  fish ; 
but  bread,  potatoes  in  some  dainty  form,  and  green  peas 
are  now  provided. 

Roast  Beef.  —  Any  of  the  following-named  vegetables 
may  be  served  with  roast  beef:  boiled,  mashed,  or 
mashed  and  browned  potatoes,  potato  puffs,  potatoes 


494          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

roasted  under  the  meat,  boiled  or  baked  sweet  potatoes, 
squash,  mashed  turnips,  boiled  rice,  boiled  hominy,  cauli- 
flower, Brussels  sprouts,  stewed  celery,  boiled  okra, 
parsnips,  young  beets,  beet  greens,  green  corn,  green 
peas,  Lima  beans,  shelled  beans,  butter  beans,  —  indeed, 
all  kinds  of  fresh  beans,  —  spinachj  kohl-rabi,  tomatoes, 
onions. 

Beefsteak.  —  Potatoes  in  any  form  may  be  served  with 
beefsteak.  For  dinner  or  luncheon  it  is  best  to  have 
them  baked,  or  mashed,  or  fried  in  balls,  thin  slices,  or 
by  the  French  mode  ;  for  breakfast  or  supper  have  them 
fried  or  baked,  or  warmed  over  in  some  palatable  form. 
At  dinner  hominy  or  rice  is  a  good  substitute  for  pota- 
toes. When  steak  forms  a  part  of  a  dinner  or  luncheon, 
any  of  the  vegetables  given  with  roast  beef  may  be  served 
with  it ;  or  vegetables  a  la  jardiniere  will  be  found  an 
excellent  accompaniment.  Again,  vegetables  a  la  mace- 
doine  may  be  served  with  steak.  Cold  vegetables  may 
be  warmed  in  one  of  a  variety  of  attractive  modes.  As- 
paragus, salsify,  mushrooms,  and  artichokes  all  are  good 
with  steak. 

Vegetables  a  la  jardiniere  ought  always  to  go  with 
stewed,  braised,  or  rolled  beef,  though  boiled  and  baked 
potatoes,  rice,  and  hominy,  turnips,  parsnips,  carrots, 
peas,  beans,  tomatoes,  and  sweet  potatoes  all  are  good 
with  beef  cooked  in  any  of  the  three  ways  mentioned. 

Corned  Beef.  —  There  are  some  vegetables  which  appear 
almost  indispensable,  —  potatoes,  turnips,  cabbage,  beets, 
and  carrots.  There  are,  however,  several  substitutes  for 
cabbage,  such  as  spinach,  beet  greens,  Brussels  sprouts, 
dandelions,  chiccory,  and  lettuce.  Kohl-rabi  may  take  the 
place  of  turnips.  Parsnips  and  sweet  potatoes  are  good 
with  boiled  corned  beef. 

Mutton  and  Lamb.  —  The  vegetables  appropriate  to 
•erve  with  boiled  mutton  are  boiled  potatoes,  turnips, 
carrots,  cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  okra,  salsify,  onions, 
spinach,  and  any  kind  of  green  beans.  With  roast  mutton 


VEGETABLES.  495 


serve  potatoes,  rice,  hominy,  sweet  potatoes,  mashed 
turnips,  onions,  beans,  peas,  asparagus,  spinach,  salsify, 
tomatoes,  squash,  corn,  or  macaroni. 

Tfie  vegetables  suitable  for  serving  with  roast  lamb  are 
potatoes,  asparagus,  peas,  beans,  spinach,  lettuce,  young 
carrots,  white  turnips,  summer  squash,  and  salsify. 

Any  of  the  vegetables  named  for  beefsteak  may  be 
served  also  with  mutton  or  lamb  chops  or  cutlets. 

Pork.  —  With  roast  pork  the  following-named  vegeta- 
bles are  appropriate :  white  and  sweet  potatoes,  squash, 
onions,  turnips,  carrots,  parsnips,  tomatoes,  spinach,  okra, 
cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  kohl-rabi,  salsify,  rice,  and 
hominy.  Remember,  too,  that  a  dish  of  roast  pork  is 
incomplete  without  apple  sauce. 

Veal.  —  E/oast  or  braised  veal  tastes  best  with  young 
carrots,  white  turnips,  or  spinach.  Among  other  vege- 
tables very  good  to  serve  with  it,  are  fresh  beans,  peas, 
asparagus,  okra,  tomatoes,  lettuce,  dandelions,  parsnips, 
creamed  cabbage,  young  beets,  and  beet  greens. 

Poultry  and  G-ame.- — The  most  suitable  vegetables 
with  boiled  turkey  and  chicken  are  potatoes,  cauliflower, 
turnips,  stewed  celery,  macaroni,  parsnips,  onions,  Brus- 
sels sprouts,  and  artichokes.  If  the  poultry  be  roasted 
the  vegetables  should  be  about  the  same,  —  beans  of  all 
kinds,  green  peas,  cauliflower,  white  and  sweet  potatoes, 
rice,  mushrooms,  salsify,  corn,  turnips,  carrots,  and 
macaroni. 

Game  of  all  kinds  should  be  so  cooked  and  served  that 
none  of  the  natural  flavors  will  be  disguised.  For  this 
reason  the  sauces  and  the  vegetables  which  accompany 
the  meat  should  be  of  such  a  character  that  they  will 
combine  in  a  pleasing  way  with  the  game  flavor.  Celery 
is  excellent ;  it  may  be  served  plain,  stewed,  and  with  a 
white  sauce,  or  with  Mayonnaise  dressing.  In  the  last- 
named  form  celery  is  good  with  any  kind  of  game.  In 
a  dinner  of  many  courses  it  is  customary  to  serve  with 
the  game  a  sauce,  a  salad,  —  almost  always  uncooked 


496          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

vegetables,  —  and  bread.  Here  is  a  list  of  vegetables 
good  with* any  kind  of  game :  green  peas,  French  beang, 
sweet  potatoes,  when  boiled,  glazed,  or  cooked  au  gratin  ; 
tomatoes,  stuffed,  broiled,  or  in  a  salad  ;  white  potatoes, 
as  croquettes,  or  puffs,  or  fried  in  balls ;  cauliflower, 
when  cooked  au  gratin ;  spinach,  a  la  creme  ;  and  some 
tastes  are  gratified  with  stuffed  onions  as  a  companion  of 
wild  ducks.  Unless  there  be  an  olive  sauce,  olives  should 
be  served  with  ducks.  Sometimes  fried  hominy  is  served 
with  grouse  and  ducks. 

The  vegetables  appropriate  to  serve  with  roast  goose 
are  not  especially  numerous.  Onions  and  potatoes  are 
considered  by  most  people  to  be  necessary  adjuncts ;  so 
is  apple  sauce.  Sweet  potatoes,  squash,  rice,  turnips, 
peas,  beans,  cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  salsify,  and  okra 
all  are  suitable. 

In  arranging  the  bill  of  fare  for  a  dinner,  avoid  placing 
two  similar  vegetables  in  the  same  course,  unless  they 
are  to  be  served  a  la  mace'doine  or  a  la  jardiniere.  The 
common  vegetables  may  be  classified  as  follows  :  — 

1.  Cabbage,  chiccory,  spinach,  lettuce,  endive,  dande- 
lions, cauliflower,  beet  greens,  Brussels  sprouts. 

2.  Turnips,  salsify,  kohl-rabi. 

3.  Squash,  sweet  potatoes. 

4.  Shelled  beans,  peas. 

5.  Bice,  hominy,  macaroni,  white  potatoes. 

Now,  if  squash  be  used,  sweet  potatoes  should  not,  in 
the  same  course  ;  or  if  turnips  be  served,  salsify  should 
not. 

POTATOES. 

The  potato  is  one  of  the  most  common  vegetables, 
and  yet  its  characteristics  are  not  very  well  understood 
by  the  majority  of  housekeepers.  The  potato  may  be 
soaked  in  cold  water  for  twelve  or  more  hours  before 
being  cooked,  and  will  be  improved  rather  than  injured ; 
but  let  it  stand  in  but  little  moisture  after  it  is  cooked. 


VEGETABLES.  497 


for  even  ten  minutes,  and  it  would  be  spoiled.  The 
potato  is  composed  largely  of  starch.  The  uncooked 
starch  does  not  unite  with  moisture,  but  as  soon  as  it  is 
cooked  it  absorbs  moisture  like  a  sponge.  A  good  potato 
will  be  light  and  mealy  as  soon  as  it  is  baked  or  boiled, 
but  if  the  cooking  be  continued  it  will  become  dark, 
heavy,  and  strong-flavored. 

In  warming  over  potatoes,  or  in  using  them  in  a  salad, 
there  is  an  objection  to  a  very  mealy  potato.  When  po- 
tatoes are  new  they  are  rarely  mealy,  and  are  therefore 
particularly  nice  for  salads  and  for  warming  over.  Ger- 
man potatoes  are  sold  in  large  cities  for  these  purposes. 
They  are  small,  and,  like  a  new  potato,  will  not  crumble 
if  cut  into  cubes  or  in  slices.  If  one  have  neither  new 
nor  German  potatoes,  mealy  potatoes  may  be  used  for 
the  purposes  mentioned,  if  they  be  under-boiled. 

*  Boiling  Potatoes. 

There  are  many  ways  of  boiling  the  vegetable.  It 
really  makes  no  difference  in  the  quality  of  the  potato 
whether  it  be  put  into  cold  or  boiling  water,  when  it  is 
put  on  to  cook,  but  it  does  make  a  little  difference  in  the 
care  to  the  cook.  If  they  be  covered  with  boiling  water 
they  can  be  timed  to  a  minute,  and  there  will  be  no  care 
except  to  put  in  the  salt  and  to  take  them  off  as  soon  as 
the  time  is  up.  If,  however,  they  be  put  on  in  cold 
water,  it  will  not  be  possible  to  time  them  accurately. 
Again,  a  potato  may  be  so  mealy  that  the  outside  will  be 
broken  to  pieces  before  the  centre  is  cooked.  This 
happens  only  when  the  boiling  is  violent. 

Here  is  a  rule  that  has  never  failed  to  give  a  perfectly 
cooked  potato  in  all  seasons  and  in  all  parts  of  the 
country :  Put  the  potatoes  in  the  boiler  and  on  the  fire. 
Cover  them  with  boiling  water.  Cover  the  boiler,  and 
let  them  cook  half  an  hour.  Eemember  it  is  half  an 
hour  from  the  time  the  water  is  poured  over  them,  not 


498          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

from  the  time  they  begin  to  boil.  When  they  have  been 
cooking  fifteen  minutes,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  for 
every  twelve  potatoes.  The  boiling  should  be  only 
moderately  brisk.  At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  pour  off 
every  drop  of  water.  If  the  potatoes  must  be  kept  hot 
for  any  length  of  time,  lay  a  folded  towel  over  them,  and 
place  the  kettle  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove.  They 
will  keep  hot  and  mealy  for  hours,  if  cared  for  in  this 
way. 

*  Princess  Potatoes. 

Cooked  by  the  following  simple  mode,  potatoes  are  ren- 
dered delicate  and  delicious.  A  quantity  of  cold  mashed 
ones  should  be  used.  Cut  into  strips  about  two  inches 
long,  one  inch  wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Have  in  one 
saucer  a  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  in  another 
a  beaten  egg,  and  dip  the  strips  of  potato  first  into  the 
butter  and  then  into  the  egg.  With  a  knife,  lay  them 
in  a  light!}7  buttered  tin  pan,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for 
twelve  minutes.  Serve  at  once.  An  egg  and  a  table- 
spoonful  'of  butter  will  suffice  for  about  a  pint  of 
potatoes. 

Duchess  Potatoes. 

Grate  five  cold  boiled  potatoes  of  medium  size.  Mix 
five  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
then  lightly  mix  the  grated  potatoes  with  these  ingre- 
dients, and  add  half  a  cupful  of  milk  and  two  well-beaten 
eggs.  Have  ready  in  a  Scotch  bowl  or  a  deep  saucepan 
boiling  lard  to  the  depth  of  about  three  inches,  and  drop 
the  mixture  into  the  lard  by  small  spoonfuls.  About 
half  of  the  entire  quantity  can  be  cooked  at  one  time. 
Fry  for  eight  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  napkin. 

The  potatoes  used  should  be  light  and  dry ;  the  eggs 
should  be  beaten  with  vigor;  the  mixing  of  the  ingre- 
dients should  be  done  thoroughly,  and  the  fat  should 


VEGETABLES.  499 


be  so  hot  that  blue  smoke  rises  from  the  centre  of  the 
pan. 

*  Potato   Omelet 

This  requires  nine  potatoes  of  medium  size,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one- 
third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  half  a  cupful  of  hot 
milk. 

After  paring  the  potatoes,  cover  them  with  boiling 
water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then  drain  off  all  the 
water,  and  mash  the  potatoes  until  fine  and  light.  Add 
the  salt  and  pepper,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter, 
and  after  mixing  well,  gradually  add  the  hot  milk,  beat- 
ing all  the  while.  The  mixture  should  be  very  light. 
Put  the  remaining  table-spoonful  of  butter  on  the  stove 
in  a  large  frying-pan ;  and  when  it  gets  hot,  and  before 
it  has  become  browned,  turn  the  potato  into  the  pan, 
spreading  it  smoothly.  Cover  the  omelet,  and  set  it 
where  it  will  brown  slowly  and  evenly.  It  should  be 
done  in  ten  minutes.  Fold  it,  and  turn  out  on  a  hot 
dish.  Serve  at  once. 

*  Escaloped   Potatoes. 

Cut  a  quart  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  very  thin  slices, 
and  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  level 
table-spoonful  of  pepper.  Next  butter  an  escalop  dish. 
Put  two  table-spoonfuls"  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  the  butter  has  become  hot,  and  before  it  has  become 
browned,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until  a  white 
froth  has  formed,  and  then  draw  the  frying-pan  to  a 
cooler  part  of  the  stove,  and  add  very  gradually  a  pint 
of  cold  milk.  After  about  a  third  of  this  quantity  has 
been  thus  used,  move  the  frying-pan  to  the  hottest  part 
of  the  range,  and  stir  the  mixture  constantly  until  it 
bubbles  ;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  let  it 
all  boil  up.  Season  with  a  little  pepper,  and  a  third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Spread  a  layer  of  this  sauce  on 


500          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  bottom  of  the  escalop  dish,  then  a  layer  of  potato, 
another  of  sauce,  and  another  of  potato,  and  finish  with 
one  of  sauce.  Cover  with  fine  dry  bread  crumbs,  and 
cook  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

The  potatoes  can  be  sliced  and  seasoned  the  night 
before,  and  the  crumbs  and  dish  placed  in  readiness  on 
the  table,  so  that  the  work  in  the  morning  may  be  quickly 
done. 

A  dish  of  creamed  potatoes  may  be  made  by  putting 
the  seasoned  potatoes  into  the  sauce,  and  heating  them 
for  five  minutes. 

*  Hashed   Potatoes  in   Cream. 

Pare,  and  chop  rather  coarse,  enough  cold  boiled  pota- 
toes to  make  a  quart.  Put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  one  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Mix  these  materials  lightly,  and 
add  a  scant  pint  of  sweet  milk.  Set  the  stew-pan  into 
another  containing  boiling  water,  and  cook  the  mixture 
until  it  gets  boiling  hot,  —  say  about  twelve  minutes; 
then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley.  Keinove  the  stew-pan  from  the 
water,  and  set  it  where  its  contents  will  boil  up  once. 
Taste,  to  be  sure  that  there  is  enough  seasoning ;  then 
serve. 

*  Potatoes  au  TGratin. 

Butter  a  gratin  dish  or  a  stone-china  platter,  and  spread 
upon  it  a  quart  of  cold  potatoes  cut  into  cubes.  Dredge 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  a  teaspoonful  of 
fine-chopped  parsley  over  the  dish.  Cover  with  a  pint 
of  cream  sauce,  and  place  in  the  oven  for  ten  or  twelve 
minutes.  In  that  time  the  potatoes  should  become  slightly 
browned.  Serve  at  once. 

To  Make  the  Sauce.  —  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  melted,  add  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour.  3tir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  frothy ; 


VEGETABLES.  501 


then  draw  back  to  a  cooler  part  of  the  stove,  and  grad- 
ually add  a  pint  of  milk.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  boil  for  a  moment. 

Hashed  and   Browned  Potatoes. 

For  six  people  use  one  quart  of  cold  boiled  potatoes, 
cut  into  cubes,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour, 
a  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  one  cupful  of  stock. 

Sprinkle  half  the  salt  and  pepper  on  the  potatoes. 
Put  one  table-spoonful  of  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  put  in  the  flour. 
Stir  until  smooth  and  brown;  then  gradually  add  the 
stock  and  the  remaining  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  for 
three  minutes ;  then  add  the  potatoes,  and  cook  for  five 
minutes,  stirring  three  or  four  times  with  a  fork,  and 
being  careful  not  to  break  them. 

Now  put  the  second  table-spoonful  of  butter  on  the 
stove  in  another  frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot, 
turn  the  potatoes  into  this  pan,  spreading  them  lightly. 
Cook  for  ten  minutes  on  a  rather  hot  part  of  the  stove, 
being  careful  that  they  do  not  get  burned.  When  the 
mixture  becomes  browned,  fold  it  like  an  omelet,  and 
turn  out  on  a  hot  dish. 

It  is  better  to  have  the  potatoes  a  little  under-boiled 
for  this  dish,  as  they  will  keep  their  shape.  Follow  the 
rule  carefully. 

*  Hashed  and   Browned  Potatoes,   in  Cream 
Sauce. 

Use  for  six  persons  one  quart  of  cold  boiled  potatoes, 
cut  into  cubes,  one  slice  of  onion,  two  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  slice  of  carrot,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  two  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  pint  of 
milk,  and  one  cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs. 


502          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Beat  the  flour  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter 
together,  in  a  saucepan.  Add  the  onion,  parsley,  carrot, 
and  half  the  salt  and  pepper.  Heat  the  milk,  and  pour 
it  gradually  upon  the  contents  of  the  saucepan  ;  then  set 
the  pan  on  the  stove.  When  the  milk  begins  to  boil, 
set  the  pan  back  where  the  milk  will  only  simmer  for 
five  minutes. 

Season  the  potatoes  with  the  remainder  of  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  put  them  into  a  gratin  dish  or  a  shallow 
escalop  dish.  Strain  the  hot  sauce  over  them.  Now 
sprinkle  the  crumbs  over  the  dish,  and  dot  them  with 
the  third,  or  remaining,  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Set 
the  dish  in  a  rather  hot  oven,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  without  delay. 

*  Potatoes  Warmed  in  Chicken  Gravy. 

Chop  a  quantity  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  rather  fine, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  melted,  put  in  the 
potatoes.  To  each  quart  add  half  a  pint  of  chicken 
gravy.  Stir  frequently  with  a  fork  until  the  potatoes 
have  become  very  hot  and  brown. 

Any  other  kind  of  gravy  may  be  used  in  the  same  way 
with  potatoes. 

*  Stewed  Potatoes. 

This  savory  dish  will  require  a  quart  of  raw  potatoes, 
chopped  rather  fine,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  one  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk,  and  one  of 
water. 

Pare  and  chop  the  potatoes,  and  let  them  stand  in  a 
quantity  of  cold  water  for  ten  minutes ;  then  pour  off 
the  water,  and  put  the  potatoes  into  a  stew-pan  with  all 
the  other  ingredients  except  the  milk  and  flour,  and 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Now  mix  the  milk  with 


VEGETABLES.  503 


the   flour,  and  add  to  the  articles   which  are  cooking. 
After  ten  minutes'  further  cooking,  serve  at  once. 

If  stock  be  used  instead  of  milk  and  water,  the  pota- 
toes will  be  much  richer  and  more  savory. 

*Dry  Stew  of  Potatoes. 

Use  two  quarts  of  thin-sliced  raw  potatoes,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork,  one  level  table-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Soak  the  potatoes  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour. 
Have  the  pork  cut  in  very  thin  slices.  Put  about  one- 
fourth  of  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep  pudding-dish ;  then- 
put  in  half  the  potatoes,  and  sprinkle  half  the  pepper  and 
salt  over  them.  Now  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  pota- 
toes, and  sprinkle  with  the  balance  of  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Spread  the  remainder  of  the  sliced  pork  over 
the  potatoes.  Cover  the  dish,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  half  an  hour.  When  that  time  has  passed, 
remove  the  cover  from  the  dish,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes  more.  Serve  at  once  in  the  same  dish. 

This  is  excellent  for  dinner,  luncheon,  or  supper  when 
meat  or  fish  is  not  available.  It  is  both  nutritious  and 
savory.  To  some  tastes  a  table-spoonful  of  grated  onion, 
mixed  with  the  potatoes,  will  be  considered  as  an 
improvement. 

*  Casserole  of  Potatoes. 

After  paring  eight  good-sized  potatoes,  cover  them 
with  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
pour  off  all  the  water,  and  mash  the  potatoes  until  fine 
and  light.  Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt ;  and  when  these  ingredients 
have  been  beaten  into  the  potato,  add  a  generous  half- 
cupful  of  milk.  Have  ready  a  tin  mould,  warm  and  well 
buttered,  and  pack  the  potato  into  it.  Let  the  casserole 
stand  for  five  minutes ;  then  turn  out  on  a  platter. 


504          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

In  order  to  be  successful  one  must  be  not  sparing  of 
butter  when  greasing  the  mould.  A  chaiiotte-russe  or 
jelly  mould  answers  well  for  holding  the  potato.  A 
pretty  way  to  serve  the  casserole  is  to  turn  it  out  upon  a 
buttered  tin  sheet,  cover  with  beaten  egg,  and  brown  in 
the  oven. 

Potato  Timbale. 

In  order  to  make  a  timbale  large  enough  for  eight 
persons,  use  eight  large  potatoes,  one  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
white  pepper,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  hot  milk,  and 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  crumbs. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and,  putting  them  into  a  stew-pan 
with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  cook  them  for 
half  an  hour.  Put  the  milk  on  to  heat.  Pour  all  the 
water  from  the  potatoes,  and  mash  them  until  fine  and 
light.  Add  half  the  butter  and  all  the  salt  and  pep- 
per. Beat  the  mixture  a  little,  and  gradually  add  the 
milk,  beating  all  the  time.  Finally  add  the  eggs,  well 
beaten. 

Butter  a  charlotte  mould  or  any  other  plain  mould 
with  the  remaining  two  spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  sprinkle 
the  bottom  and  sides  with  the  crumbs,  having  as  many 
as  possible  cling  to  the  butter.  Pack  the  mould  with 
the  potato,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour. 
Let  it  stand  for  ten  minutes  after  it  comes  from  the 
oven ;  then  turn  out  the  contents  very  gently  on  a  flat 
dish. 

*  Potato   Balls. 

With  a  vegetable-scoop,  cut  two  quarts  of  balls  out  of 
raw  potatoes,  and  put  them  into  cold  water.  A  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  serving-time,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  and  cook  for  twelve 
minutes.  After  pouring  off  all  the  water,  dredge  the 
balls  with  salt,  and  let  them  stand  on  the  back  of  the 
range  to  dry  off. 


VEGETABLES.  505 


*  Potato  Balls  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Pare  a  number  of  large  round  potatoes,  and  cut  balls 
from  them  with  a  vegetable-scoop.  A  dozen  potatoes 
will  give  about  sixty  balls,  if  the  largest  scoop  be  used. 
Cover  the  balls  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  them  twelve 
minutes ;  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  to  the  balls  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk.  Into  this  stir  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  mixed  with  one  of  flour,  and  also  a  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

A  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  improves  the  appear- 
ance of  the  dish. 

There  is  another  nice  mode  of  serving  potato  balls. 
When  all  the  water  has  been  drained  from  them,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  mixed  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  This  mode  is  particularly  nice  when 
the  potato  balls  are  to  accompany  some  dish  of  fish. 
There  should  be  no  delay  in  serving. 

•  *  Potato  Cakes. 

These  are  made  by  shaping  into  small  flat  cakes  cold 
mashed  potatoes  left  from  a  previous  meal,  putting  them 
on  a  buttered  tin,  spreading  them  lightly  with  soft  but- 
ter, and  placing  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  quarter  of*  an 
hour.  Serve  at  once. 

*  Roasted  Potatoes. 

If  the  cooking  be  perfect,  roasted  potatoes  are  an  ex- 
cellent accompaniment  of  roast  beef ;  but  if  it  be  faulty, 
and  the  potatoes  come  from  the  oven  hard  and  dry,  this 
mode  of  cooking  is  not  likely  to  be  a  favorite.  The 
potatoes  should  be  large.  Pare  them,  and  cover  with 
boiling  water;  and  after  fifteen  minutes'  cooking,  take 


506  MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

them  out  and  drain  them.  Now  put  them  into  the 
dripping-pan  containing  the  roast  beef,  and  cook  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Baste  several  times  with  the  beef 
gravy.  Serve  the  potatoes  as  a  garnish  around  the 
roast. 

*  Saratoga  Potatoes. 

After  paring  six  large  potatoes,  slice  them  very  thin, 
and  put  them  into  three  quarts  of  cold  water.  Let  them 
stand  all  night  in  a  cold  place,  —  in  the  ice-chest,  if  possi- 
ble. In  the  morning  pour  off  the  water,  and  put  in  some 
that  is  fresh,  as  well  as  a  large  piece  of  ice.  When  the 
potatoes  are  brittle,  drain  about  a  pint  of  them,  and, 
putting  them  into  a  frying-basket,  lower  them  into  a 
kettle  one-third  full  of  boiling  fat.  Cook  for  ten  min- 
utes, lifting  them  with  a  spoon  from  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  two  or  three  times  while  they  are  frying.  Drain  the 
potatoes  well,  and  turn  them  into  a  dish  lined  with  soft 
brown  paper.  Continue  cooking  the  potatoes  in  this 
way  until  all  are  done. 

A  great  many  points  are  to  be  observed :  The  slices 
should  be  cut  equally  thin;  they  should  stand  long 
enough  in  cold  water  for  the  extraction  of  a  large  part 
of  the  starch  and  coloring  matter ;  they  should  be  so  cold 
when  put  into  the  fat  as  to  be  brittle ;  the  fat  should  be 
smoking  hot,  and  be  kept  boiling  all  the  time ;  and  care 
should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  potatoes  from  burning. 

The  particles  of  water  that  cling  to  the  potatoes  turn 
to  steam  on  coming  into  contact  with  the  fat,  and  the 
expansion  will  force  the  fat  out  of  the  kettle,  unless  the 
basket  be  lowered  gradually. 

This  may  seem  to  be  a  great  deal  of  space  to  devote  to 
fried  potatoes ;  but  they  are  worth  it. 

*  Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Cut  into  cubes  enough  cold  boiled  potatoes  to  make 
one  quart.  Season  them  with  a  generous  teaspoonful  of 


VEGETABLES.  507 


salt  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Put  three 
level  table-spoonfuls  of  either  pork,  sausage,  or  ham  fat 
into  a  large  frying-pan,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
minced  chives.  Cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Add  the  potatoes,  and  stir  with  a  fork,  being 
careful  not  to  break  them,  until  they  become  browned 
and  very  hot.  Now  add  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  and  cook  for  a  minute  longer.  Turn  into  a  hot 
dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

If  butter  be  preferred,  it  may  be  substituted  for  fat. 
One  table-spoonful  of  minced  onion  may  be  used  instead 
of  the  chives.  Use  more  salt  and  pepper  if  you  choose. 

*  Saut£d  Potatoes. 

Cut  into  balls  or  cubes  enough  raw  potatoes  to  make  a 
quart.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  with  boiling 
water.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  drain  off  the  water, 
and  add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter.  Shake 
over  a  hot  fire  until  the  potatoes  are  a  golden  brown. 
Dredge  with  salt,  and  serve  at  once. 

*  Potato  Chowder. 

For  this  dish  will  be  required  two  quarts  of  pared  and 
sliced  potatoes,  five  good-sized  onions,  pared,  and  sliced 
very  thin,  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  two  quarts  of  water, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  for 
seasoning. 

Cut  the  pork  into  thin  strips,  and  fry  slowly  until  it 
turns  light  brown ;  then  add  the  onions,  and  cook  slowly 
until  they  have  become  slightly  browned.  Put  a  layer 
of  sliced  potatoes  into  the  soup-kettle,  then  a  thin  layer 
of  pork  and  onion,  and  dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour.  Continue  putting  in  these  alternate  layers  until 
all  the  solid  materials  have  been  used ;  then  add  the 
water.  Heat  the  chowder  slowly  to  the  boiling-point, 
and  simmer  for  forty  minutes  afterward. 


508          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  French  Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  sixths,  lengthwise.  Sea- 
son them  with  salt,  and,  putting  them  into  the  frying 
basket,  cook  in  fat  for  five  minutes. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  ways  of  serving 
sweet  potatoes. 

*  Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cut  cold  boiled  sweet  potatoes  in  slices  about  an  inch 
thick,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  each  quart, 
cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  in  thin  slices  ; 
and  after  frying  until  it  is  brown  and  crisp,  remove  it 
from  the  pan  and  put  in  enough  of  the  sliced  potatoes 
to  cover  the  bottom.  Fry  until  brown  on  one  side,  and 
then  turn  and  brown  the  other.  Keep  the  cooked  slices 
hot  until  all  have  been  fried.  Place  in  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve  with  the  slices  of  pork  laid  around  the  potatoes. 

Great  care  must  be  exercised  to  prevent  the  potatoes 
from  becoming  burned  during  the  frying. 

Use  large  potatoes.  After  paring  them,  cover  them 
with  boiling  water  and  boil  for  one  hour  ;  then  let  them 
cool  in  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled.  When  they 
are  cold,  cut  them  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  each  quart 
bowlful  of  sliced  potatoes,  allow  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fat  salt  pork.  Cut  it  in  thin  slices,  and  fry  slowly  for 
about  ten  minutes ;  then  put  it  on  a  hot  part  of  the  range, 
where  it  will  grow  crisp  rapidly.  When  it  is  crisp, 
take  it  up,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  frying-pan  with 
slices  of  potato.  Cook  until  brown  on  one  side ;  then 
turn  and  brown  on  the  other.  When  all  have  been 
cooked,  place  in  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  slices 
of  pork.  Serve  very  hot. 

This  is  a  favorite  mode  of  frying  potatoes  in  Southern 
homes.  It  leaves  them  moist,  and  makes  them  delicious. 


VEGETABLES.  509 


*  Escaloped  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Slice  enough  cold  boiled  sweet  potatoes  to  make  three 
pints,  and  sprinkle  with  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt  and  a  little 
pepper.  Butter  a  large  shallow  dish,  and  spread  the 
potatoes  in  it,  making  a  layer  not  more  than  an  inch 
thick.  Melt  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  butter  in  one-fourth 
of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water;  and  after  sprinkling  a 
quarter  of  this  liquid  over  the  potatoes,  put  them  into  a 
hot  oven.  In  ten  minutes  sprinkle  another  quarter  of 
the  liquid  over  them  ;  and  repeat  the  act  twice  more  at 
intervals  of  ten  minutes.  After  the  final  sprinkling,  let 
the  dish  bake  ten  minutes  longer,  or  forty  minutes 
in  all. 

This  is  a  nice  entree  for  dinner,  and  is  also  appropriate 
for  breakfast.  It  may  be  made  much  richer  by  using 
more  butter  and  no  water  for  the  basting.  Sometimes  a 
table-spoonful  of  sugar  is  mixed  with  the  butter  and 
water,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  an  improvement  is 
thus  made. 

Glazed  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cut  cold  sweet  potatoes  in  slices  about  an  inch  thick, 
and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  a  quart  of 
potatoes,  melt  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  and  add  two. table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  to  it.  Dip  the  slices  in  this  liquid, 
arid  lay  them  in  a  large  pan.  Cook  for  twelve  minutes 
in  a  very  hot  oven.  The  potatoes  should  turn  a  rich, 
glossy  brown  in  that  time.  Serve  hot.  They  are  nice 
for  luncheon,  dinner,  or  supper. 

*  Carrots  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Scrape,  wash,  and  cut  into  cubes  enough  carrots  to 
make  a  quart  when  cut  up.  Put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  them  for 
one  hour  ;  then  pour  off  all  the  water  except  half  a  gill. 


510          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Add  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  one  of  salt,  and  boil 
rapidly  until  all  the  water  evaporates;  then  add  the 
sauce,  and  serve  at  once. 

To  Make  the  Sauce.  — Put  three  gills  of  milk  into  a 
stew-pan,  and  when  it  boils,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  that  has  been  beaten,  with  a  level  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  to  a  froth.  Now  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  for 

three  minutes  before  pouring  over  the  vegetables. 

. 

*  Stewed  Carrots. 

Pare  and  slice  enough  carrots  to  make  three  pints,  and 
cut  them  into  cubes  about  half  an  inch  square.  Put 
these  into  a  stew-pan  containing  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  and  cook  for  an  hour ;  then  drain  off  all  the 
water,  and  add  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little 
pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  stock.  Cook  rapidly  until  the 
stock  has  almost  boiled  away. 

Stewed  Turnips. 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  in  cooking  turnips  as  you  do 
in  preparing  carrots,  except  that  the  turnips  should  be 
cooked  for  only  half  an  hour. 

Parsnips  with  Butter  Sauce. 

Scrape  and  wash  the  parsnips.  Cut  them  in  slices 
about  five  inches  long  and  one-third  of  an  inch  wide. 
Put  one  quart  of  these  slices  in  a  stew-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water.  Cook  them  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  When  they  have  been  boiling  for  half  an 
hour,  add  one  table-spoonful  of  salt.  When  they  are 
done,  drain  off  all  the  water,  and  put  the  parsnips  in  a 
vegetable  dish.  Dredge  them  lightly  with  salt,  and 
pour  half  a  pint  of  butter  sauce  over  them. 


VEGETABLES. 


511 


*  Fried  Parsnips. 

• 

Let  it  be  assumed  that  some  parsnips  were  left  from 
a  dinner.  Allow  the  butter  sauce  (which  should  be  pro- 
vided with  boiled  parsnips)  to  cling  to  them,  and  after 
dipping  in  beaten  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  put  them  into 
the  frying-basket,  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat.  Cook  for 
five  minutes. 

If  the  parsnips  have  not  had  butter  sauce  and  salt 
and  pepper  on  them,  season  them  well  before  frying. 

Parsnip  Fritters. 

Put  a  pint  of  flour  into  a  sieve,  and  add  to  it  one  tea- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  baking-powder  and  a  scant  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  rub  through  the 
sieve.  Next  beat  two  eggs  till  light ;  and  after  adding 
a  pint  of  milk  to  them,  stir  the  mixture  into  the  flour. 
Follow  with  the  addition  of  a  pint  of  cold  boiled  parsnips, 
grated  fine ;  and  after  beating  the  mixture  thoroughly, 
drop  it  by  spoonfuls  into  boiling  fat,  holding  the  spoon 
close  to  the  liquid  before  you  venture  to  drop  the  con- 
tents. Cook  the  fritters  for  about  five  minutes,  and  serve 
very  hot.  There  should  be  fat  enough  to  float  the  fritters, 
and  it  should  smoke  before  they  are  dropped  in. 

*  Creamed  Onions. 

After  boiling  half  a  dozen  onions  in  three  quarts  of 
water  for  one  hour,  pour  off  the  liquor,  and  cut  the 
onions  into  small  pieces.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  pour  a  pint  of  cream  sauce  over  them.  Serve  very 
hot. 

To  Make  the  Sauce. — First  put  a  pint  of  milk  into 
a  saucepan  to  boil.  Eub  to  a  cream  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  and  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  flour ;  and 
when  the  milk  begins  to  boil,  stir  this  cream  into  it. 
Continue  the  stirring  until  the  sauce  is  smooth.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  up  once. 


512          MISS  PABLO A'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*Escaloped  Onions. 

Prepare  the  onions  just  as  if  they  were  to  be  served 
as  creamed  onions.  Put  them  into  an  escalop  dish  before 
pouring  the  sauce  over  them,  and  after  sprinkling  them 
with  a  small  cupful  of  bread  crumbs,  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

By  some  people  it  may  be  considered  as  an  improve- 
ment to  use  a  table-spoonful  of  grated  cheese  with  the 
crumbs. 

Stuffed   Onions. 

Boil  six  large  onions  gently  for  an  hour  in  clear  water 
in  plenty.  At  the  end  of  the  stated  time  remove  the 
onions  from  the  water,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  a 
piece  from  the  centre  of  each.  Mix  together  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fine-chopped  ham,  three  of  bread  crumbs, 
one  of  butter,  three  of  inilk  or  cream,  one  egg,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  grain  of  cayenne.  Fill  with 
this  mixture  the  spaces  made  in  the  onions.  Sprinkle 
with  dry  crumbs,  and  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  butter 
on  top  of  each  onion.  Place  on  brown  earthen  plates, 
and  bake  slowly  for  an  hour.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

Spanish  onions  are  especially  delicious  prepared  in 
this  manner. 

*  Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Pare  ripe  tomatoes,  and  then  cut  them  into  small 
pieces.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  simmer  for  half 
an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add,  for  each  quart, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Simmer  for 
ten  minutes  longer. 

This  is  a  dish  as  to  which  tastes  vary  a  good  deal ;  ten 
minutes'  cooking  being  all  some  persons  give  it,  whereas 
others  stew  the  tomatoes  two  hours.  A  teaspoonful  of 


VEGETABLES.  513 


sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of   cracker  crumbs  are   some- 
times added  with  the  butter  and  other  seasoning. 

Canned  tomatoes  can  be  treated  the  same  as  the  fresh, 
except  that  they  will  require  but  half  as  much  cooking. 

Baked   Tomatoes. 

Cut  the  skin  from  one  end  of  each  of  half  a  dozen  good- 
sized  smooth  tomatoes.  With  a  teaspoon  scoop  out 
about  half  of  the  pulp,  and  mix  it  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  two  of  powdered  cracker,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 
Fill  the  cavities  with  this  mixture,  and  after  sprinkling 
the  tomatoes  with  crumbs,  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  half  an  hour. 

Breaded   Tomatoes. 

The  tomatoes  should  be  firm  and  cold.  The  variety 
called  beefsteak  tomato  is  the  best  for  breading.  Before 
doing  any  other  work,  get  ready  a  kettle  of  hot  fat,  roll 
and  sift  a  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  and  beat  two  eggs. 
All  this  is  necessary  because  the  tomatoes  grow  soft  and 
juicy  if  allowed  to  stand.  Pare  and  slice  them,  and 
after  seasoning  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  each  slice 
in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  When  all  the 
slices  have  been  treated  in  this  manner,  dip  them  again 
in  the  egg  and  crumbs  j  then  place  them  in  a  frying- 
basket,  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat.  Cook  for  about  a 
minute  and  a  half.  For  six  people,  about  four  large 
tomatoes,  two  eggs,  and  a  cupful  of  crumbs  will  be 
required. 

*  Broiled  Tomatoes. 

After  paring  and  slicing  the  tomatoes,  and  seasoning 
suitably  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  the  slices  in  beaten 
egg  and  in  crumbs.  Broil  over  clear  coals  for  about 
eight  minutes.  Place  on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  bit  of  butter 

m 


514          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

in  the  centre  of  each  slice.     This  dish  is  good  for  break- 
fast, luncheon,  or  tea. 

Another  way  of  cooking  the  tomatoes  is  to  put  a  little 
butter  into  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  brown  the  tomatoes  on 
both  sides  in  the  pan. 

*  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

For  this  dish  one  should  use  only  such  tomatoes  as 
are  ripe  and  smooth.  Put  them  into  a  bowl,  and  pour 
boiling  water  upon  them.  This  will  loosen  the  skins,  so 
that  the  paring  is  an  easy  task.  As  soon  as  the  tomatoes 
have  been  pared,  place  them  where  they  will  become 
very  cold  ;  and  when  they  are  cold,  slice  them  with  a 
very  sharp  knife,  and  then  place  the  dish  on  ice  again 
until  the  time  of  serving. 

*  Tomato  Fritters. 

tlse  for  these  fritters  a  can  of  tomatoes,  eight  slices  of 
stale  bread  about  half  an  inch  thick,  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of 
sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  eggs, 
anci  a  pint  of  crumbs  of  bread  or  crackers. 

Cook  the  tomatoes,  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar  together  in 
a  stew-pan  for  ten  minutes.  Rub  the  flour  and  butter 
together,  and  stir  into  the  cooking  mixture.  Cook  for 
three  minutes  longer  j  then  rub  through  a  strainer. 

Spread  the  slices  of  bread  on  a  platter,  and  pour  the 
strained  tomato .  over  them.  After  they  have  stood  for 
abbut  half  an  hour,  turn  them  over  and  let  them  stand 
ten  minutes  longer, 'that  both  sides  maybe  weir  covered 
with  the  sauce. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  dip  the  toast  first  in  the  eggs 
and  then  in  the  bread  crumbs.  Put  a  few  slices  into  a 
frying-basket,  and  cook  in  boiling  fat  for  two  minutes, 
repeating  the  process  until  all  the  slices  have  been  thus 
treated.  Drain  well,  and  serve  very  hot. 


VEGETABLES.  515 


*  Boiled  Asparagus. 

After  cutting  the  tough  ends  from  the  asparagus,  wash 
it  in  cold  water  and  tie  it  again  in  bundles.  Put  it  into 
a  stew-pan  with  salted  boiling  water,  —  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  to  every  quart  of  water,  — and  boil  for  twenty-five 
minutes.  On  taking  from  the  fire,  drain  off  the  water. 
Now  untie  the  bundles,  and  place  the  asparagus  on  slices 
of  toast.  Season  with  butter  and  a  little  salt. 

Or,  the  asparagus  may  be  cut  in  two-inch  pieces  and 
boiled  as  directed.  Drain  off  all  the  water.  Put  the 
asparagus  in  a  vegetable-dish,  and  season  with  butter  and 
a  little  salt.  This  is  a  very  satisfactory  way  to  cook 
and  serve  the  vegetable. 

*  Asparagus  Points. 

Cut  off  the  tender  green  heads  of  asparagus.  Wash 
them,  and  then  boil  in  salted  water  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes.  These  are  served  like  peas. 

Asparagus  with  Eggs. 

Use  two  bunches  of  asparagus,  half  a  dozen  eggs,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt. 

After  cutting  off  the  tough  ends,  wash  the  rest  of  the 
asparagus,  and  cut  it  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long. 
Place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  boiling  water  to 
cover  it,  and  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes,  adding  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt  at  the  end  of  the  first  quarter  of  an 
hour.  When  done,  take  from  the  fire  and  drain  off  all 
the  water.  Place  the  asparagus  in  an  escalop-dish  or 
gratin-dish.  Spread  half  the  butter  on  it,  and  then  set 
the  dish  where  the  asparagus  will  keep  hot  while  the 
eggs  are  being  beaten.  Beat  them  till  rather  light ; 
then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the  remainder  of  the 
butter,  broken  into  bits.  Pour  this  mixture  over  the 


516          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

asparagus,  and  set  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven  for  four 
minutes.     Serve  very  hot. 

This  dish  may  be  served  as  an  entre'e. 

*  Green  Peas. 

Shell  the  peas.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  boiling 
water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
salt  for  each  quart  of  peas.  Boil  from  twenty  minutes 
to  an  hour,  the  time  depending  upon  the  age  and  condi- 
tion of  the  peas.  Those  that  require  an  hour's  boiling 
to  make  them  tender  are  not  of  a  delicate  flavor  when 
cooked.  Drain  off  almost  all  the  water,  and  season  the 
peas  with  butter  and  salt. 

French  Peas. 

Open  a  can  of  French  peas,  and  turn  them  into  a 
strainer.  Rinse  them  thoroughly  by  pouring  cold  water 
over  them.  Put  them  in  a  flat-bottomed  stew-pan,  and 
add  to  them  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
each  of  salt  and  sugar,  and  one  gill  of  stock.  Cook 
rapidly,  having  the  stew-pan  uncovered,  until  the  peas 
have  absorbed  all  the  liquid.  Serve  at  once. 

Fresh  peas  may  be  finished  in  this  manner  after  they 
have  been  boiled  and  drained. 

*  Boiled  Salsify. 

As  the  season  for  delicate  green  vegetables  goes  by, 
people  turn  to  vegetables  of  a  somewhat  heavier  kind. 
Salsify,  or  oyster-plant,  is  one  of  the  most  palatable  tubers, 
and  may  be  cooked  in  a  variety  of  ways.  If  it  is  simply 
to  be  boiled,  first  remove  the  tops  (which  are  not  used) 
from  two  bunches,  and  cover  the  bunches  with  cold 
water.  Next  put  a  quart  of  cold  water  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  into  a  bowl.  Scrape  the  salsify 
perfectly  clean ;  and  as  each  piece  is  finished,  drop  it 
into  the  liquid  in  the  bowl,  which  will  keep  it  white. 


VEGETABLES.  517 


When  ready  to  cook  the  salsify,  drain  it  carefully  and 
put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan  with  boiling  water  enough 
to  cover  it.  Boil  for  fifty  minutes,  adding  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  at  the  end  of  the  first  half-hour.  At  serving- 
time  drain  the  plant  thoroughly,  and  season  it  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  a  table-spoonful  of  butter ;  or  serve  with 
butter  sauce. 

Salsify  grows  dark  in  cooking  unless  it  be  kept  in 
water  from  the  time  it  is  scraped  until  it  is  boiled.  It 
should  not  be  cooked  in  an  iron  kettle. 

Salsify  a  la  Poulette. 

Boil  the  salsify  as  already  directed,  and  serve  with  a 
sauce  made  as  follows :  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
and  one  of  flour  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  rub  them  to  a 
smooth  paste.  Add  a  piece  of  onion  the  size  of  a  quarter 
of  a  dollar,  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  white  stock.  Let  the  mixture  boil  for  ten 
minutes  ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  beaten  with  a 
quarter  of  a  cupful  of  stock.  Stir  the  sauce  on  the  back 
of  the  stove  —  where  it  will  not  boil  —  for  one  minute  ; 
then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  strain  imme- 
diately. Split  the  pieces  of  salsify,  and  lay  them  in 
a  warm  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them.  Serve 
very  hot. 

The  eggs  may  be  omitted  if  one  prefer.  The  sauce 
will  then  be  white,  which  is  a  good  color  in  an  accom- 
paniment of  salsify. 

*  Fried  Salsify. 

Use  the  cold  salsify  left  from  a  dinner.  Dip  it  in 
beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  after  placing 
it  in  a  fry  ing-basket,  put  it  into  boiling  fat.  It  should 
fry  brown  in  a  minute  and  a  half.  If  any  sauce  cling 
to  it  when  it  is  breaded,  so  much  the  better.  Serve  hot. 


518          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Boiled  Green  Corn. 

The  time  of  boiling  corn  depends  so  much  upon  the 
age  of  the  vegetable  and  the  time  that  it  has  been 
picked  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  a  definite  rule.  Corn 
that  is  tender  and  freshly  picked  will  cook  in  ten 
minutes.  Some  people  cook  it  for  only  five,  but  that  is 
hardly  enough.  When  the  corn  is  older  it  will  take 
from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes  to  cook. 

Remove  the  husks  and  the  fine  silk  from  the  ears. 
Put  the  corn  in  a  stew-pan  with  boiling  water  enough  to 
cover  it,  and  boil  until  done.  Take  it  from  the  water, 
spread  a  napkin  on  a  flat  dish,  and  lay  the  corn  on  it. 
Draw  the  ends  of  the  napkin  up,  so  as  to  cover  the  corn. 
Serve  at  once. 

Sometimes  the  inner  husks  are  left  on  the  corn ;  but 
the  silk  is  of  course  removed.  The  corn  may  be  served 
in  the  husks,  or  they  may  be  removed  after  the  corn  is 
boiled. 

*  Green  Corn  in  Cream. 

Husk  the  corn,  and  boil  it  for  ten  minutes.  Cool  it  a 
little.  Draw  a  sharp  knife  down  each  row  of  kernels, 
thus  cutting  every  kernel  in  two.  Press  the  corn  from 
the  husks  with  the  back  of  a  knife.  When  all  the  corn 
is  ready,  put  it  in  a  saucepan,  and  to  each  pint  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream. 
Simmer  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot. 

This  is  the  most  satisfactory  mode  of  preparing  the 
corn  when  it  is  at  all  old  and  hard. 

*  Canned  Corn. 

Put  a  can  of  corn  in  a  stew-pan  with  three  gills  of 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  sugar,  and  one- 


VEGETABLES.  519 


fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Simmer  for  twenty 
minutes ;  then  add  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
and  serve. 

*  Lima  Beans. 

These  beans  should  stand  in  cold  water  for  at  least 
an  hour  before  they  are  cooked,  and  at  the  time  of  cook- 
ing two  quarts  of  boiling  water  should  be  allowed  for 
each  quart  of  beans.  An  hour's  cooking  probably  will 
be  sufficient.  The  beans  should  be  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  butter ;  or  white-  or  poulette  sauce  should 
be  served  with  them.  ;  - 

Dried  Lima  beans,  if  used,  should  be  soaked  in  cold 
water  over  night.  Cook  them  for  .two  hours,  and  season 
them  with  salt  and  butter. 


*  Succotash. 

Use  a  pint  of  shelled  •  beans,  ten  or  a  dozen  ears  of 
corn,  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  niilk,  two  table-spoonfuls-  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Wash  the  beans,  and  boil  them  for  an  hour  in  clear 
water.  Pour  off  the  water  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and 
put  into  the  stew-pan  a  gill  of  boiling  water,  the  milk 
or  cream,  and  the  corn  cut  from  the  cob.  Heat  the 
dish  to  the  boiling-point,  and  then  let  it  simmer  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  After  this  time  has  passed,  add  the 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper  to  the  corn  and  beans ;  then  boil 
up  once  and  serve. 

If  the  corn  be  fresh  from  the  garden  and  very  tender, 
from  five  to  ten  minutes'  simmering  will  cook  it  suffi- 
ciently, whereas,  if  it  be  a  trifle  old,  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes'  cooking  may  be  required. 


520          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

*  Escaloped  Corn  and  Tomatoes. 

Use  one  pint  of  cold  boiled  corn,  cut  from  the  cob,  or 
one  can  of  preserved  corn,  one  pint  of  pared  and  chopped 
tomatoes,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  generous  half-pint  of  grated 
bread  crumbs. 

Mix  together  the  corn,  tomato,  seasoning,  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  butter,  and  pour  the  mixture  into 
an  escalop-dish,  —  one  that  will  hold  three  pints.  .  Spread 
the  bread  crumbs  over  the  mixture,  and  dot  with  the 
third  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  half  an  hour. 

This  dish  may  be  used  for  luncheon,  dinner,  or  tea. 

*  Cauliflower. 

This  is  a  handsome  and  delicate  vegetable.  It  is  a 
pity  that  more  people  do  not  know  how  to  cook  it  prop- 
erly. Frequently  a  head  of  cauliflower,  which  was  white 
and  delicate  when  it  went  to  the  kitchen,  is  red  and 
strong-flavored  when  placed  on  the  table,  and  perhaps 
has  a  thick  coating  of  melted  butter  and  flour,  or  a  thick 
sauce  of  flour  and  milk,  which  tastes  as  if  it  were  pre- 
pared for  a  paste  rather  than  a  sauce. 

There  are  many  ways  of  cooking  this  vegetable,  but 
the  simplest  is  the  best.  The  cauliflower  should  be 
washed  thoroughly,  and  then  allowed  to  stand  in  cold 
water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  longer ;  it  should  next 
be  put  into  a  stew-pan  —  either  one  of  granite-ware  or 
one  with  a  lining  of  porcelain  —  with  a  plentiful  quan- 
tity of  boiling  water ;  and  after  the  cover  has  been  put 
on  the  stew-pan,  the  cauliflower  should  be  simmered  for 
half  an  hour,  if  it  be  fresh,  crisp,  and  of  moderate  size, 
or  for  forty  minutes,  if  it  be  rather  large;  it  should 
then  be  drained  and  placed  in  a  deep  vegetable-dish ; 
and  finall)7  a  sauce  should  be  poured  over  it. 


VEGETABLES.  521 


The  simplest  and  best  sauce  is  made  by  beating  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  to  a  cream, 
pouring  over  this  mixture  three  gills  of  boiling  milk, 
and  adding  half  a  teaspoonf ul  of  salt  after  the  liquid  has 
boiled  for  five  minutes.  Half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
should  be  sprinkled  over  the  cauliflower  before  the  sauce 
is  poured  over  it. 

*  Escaloped  Cauliflower. 

Put  a  good-sized  cauliflower  into  a  kettle  containing 
two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  after  adding  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  cook  the  vegetable  slowly  for  half  an 
hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  remove  it,  and  after 
allowing  the  water  to  drip  from  it,  break  the  cauliflower 
apart,  and  put  a  layer  into  an  escalop-dish.  Moisten 
with  cream  sauce,  and  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  ;  then 
put  in  another  layer,  pour  the  remainder  of  the  sauce 
over  it,  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  cheese  and  bread 
crumbs.  You  will  need  a  pint  of  sauce,  a  scant  half- 
pint  of  bread  crumbs,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cheese 
—  or  more  if  you  desire  a  strong  flavor.  Cook  the  dish 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it  comes  from 
the  oven. 

To  Make  the  Sauce.  —  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter 
into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  melted,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  the  sauce  until  it  is  smooth 
and  frothy  ;  then  gradually  add  a  pint  of  cold  milk. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  up  once. 

*  Creamed  Cabbage. 

For  six  persons  use  two  quarts  of  sliced  raw  cabbage, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
one  cupful  of  milk. 

After  letting  the  sliced  cabbage  stand  in  cold  water 
for  an  hour,  drain  it,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  two 


522          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

quarts  of  boiling  water.  Cover  closely,  and  boil  gently 
for  ten  minutes  ;  then  pour  off  all  the  water,  and  add  two 
quarts  of  fresh  boiling  water.  Cover  the  pan,  and  set  it 
where  its  contents  will  boil  gently  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  ;  then  drain  off  all  the  water,  and  chop  the  cabbage 
rather  coarse.  Put  it  into  a  frying-pan  with  the  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes; 
then  cover,  and  set  back  where  the  mixture  will  cook 
slowly.  Mix  the  milk  gradually  with  the  flour,  and 
when  a  smooth  mixture  has  been  formed  of  the  two  in- 
gredients, pour  it  over  the  cabbage.  Draw  the  pan  for- 
ward where  the  dish  will  only  simmer  for  the  next  ten 
minutes.  Serve  hot. 

*  Escaloped  Cabbage. 

Cook  the  cabbage  as  directed  for  creamed  cabbage, 
using  a  generous  cupful  of  milk.  Turn  the  cooked  mix- 
ture into  an  escalop-dish,  and  sprinkle  over  it  a  pint  of 
grated  bread  crumbs  and  one  table-spoonful  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese.  Bake  for  half  an  hour,  and  serve  as 
soon  as  it  comes  from  the  oven. 

*  Stewed  Cabbage. 

Take  two  quarts  of  chopped  cabbage,  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  eight  slices  of  rather  lean  salt  pork,  one 
generous  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

Put  the  cabbage  into  a  stew-pan,  and  after  adding  the 
salt  and  butter,  lay  the  slices  of  pork  on  top  of  the  cab- 
bage. Pour  the  boiling  water  into  the  pan,  and  cook  for 
an  hour.  Add  some  Indian  dumplings  at  the  end  of  that 
time,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

Indian  Dumplings.  —  These  require  a  cupful  of  Indian 
meal,  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  milk, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  and  a  small  egg. 


VEGETABLES.  523 


Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Beat  the  egg  until  it  is  light.  Add  the  inilk, 
and  after  pouring  this  liquid  mixture  upon  the  dry  one, 
beat  both  thoroughly.  Drop  from  a  spoon  upon  the 
boiling  cabbage ;  and  after  covering  the  stew-pan,  cook 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

i.-i* 
Brussels  Sprouts  Saut6. 

Use  one  quart  of  sprouts,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

After  ridding  the  sprouts  of  the  loose  hanging  leaves, 
soak  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour ;  then  wash 
them,  and  put  them  on  the  stove  in  a  stew-pan  contain- 
ing two  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Boil  for  half  an  hour, 
adding  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  at  the  end  of  the  first  ten 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  the  half-hour  drain  off  all  the 
water,  and  add  the  sugar,  butter,  pepper,  flour,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  until 
the  sprouts  become  colored  slightly,  —  say  for  about  four 
minutes ;  then  turn  the  vegetables  into  a  warm  dish,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Brussels  Sprouts  in  Cream  Sauce.' 

Wash  and  boil  a  quart  of  sprouts  as  for  the  saute,  and 
after  draining  them  carefully,  put  a  cupful  of  milk  into 
the  stew-pan  with  the  sprouts,  and  set  the  pan  where  its 
contents  will  boil.  Now  beat  together  one  table-spoonful 
of  flour  and  two  of  butter.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the 
milk,  and  add  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Simmer  for  five  minutes. 

*  Boiled  Okra. 

The  okra  should  be  fresh  and  tender.  Wash  it,  and 
then  cut  off  the  stems.  The  pods  are  so  sticky  that  care 


524          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

must  be  taken  to  avoid  breaking  them,  else  it  will  be 
difficult  to  get  them  perfectly  clean.  This  is  why  they 
should  be  washed  before  the  stems  are  removed.  Put 
them  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  with  a  liberal  allowance 
of  water.  For  each  quart  of  okra  put  in  about  three 
ounces  of  lean  salt  pork.  Boil  for  an  hour,  or  even 
longer,  unless  it  be  tender  by  that  time.  When  it  is 
cooked,  pour  off  the  water  and  season  with  salt.  Serve 
hot. 

If  you  object  to  pork,  cook  the  okra  in  clear  water ; 
and  when  it  is  done,  season  with  salt  and  butter. 

*  Spinach  &  la  Crdme. 

Pick  apart,  leaf  by  leaf,  a  peck  of  spinach.  Throw 
away  the  decayed  portions,  and  put  the  rest  into  a  large 
pan  of  water.  When  this  has  been  done,  take  the  pan 
to  the  sink  and  wash  the  spinach  free  of  sand.  This  is 
a  difficult  operation,  requiring  much  care  and  a  great 
deal  of  water.  Two  pans  should  be  used,  and  only  a  few 
pieces  of  spinach  washed  at  a  time.  They  should  then 
be  laid  in  the  second  pan,  in  clean  water ;  and  after  the 
first  pan  has  been  very  thoroughly  rinsed  and  filled  again 
with  fresh  water,  wash  the  spinach  again,  and  return  it 
to  the  first  pan.  Continue  the  washing  from  pan  to  pan 
until  no  trace  of  sand  can  be  found.  No  other  method 
will  give  clean  spinach,  and  unless  one  be  willing  to 
take  all  the  pains  described,  it  would  be  better  to  do 
without  the  vegetable. 

Now  that  the  spinach  is  clean,  put  it  into  a  large  stew- 
pan,  with  one  cupful  of  water  ;  and  after  covering  closely, 
cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Add  a  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  cook  five  minutes  longer;  then  remove  from 
the  fire  and  turn  into  a  colander,  and  press  out  as  much 
water  as  possible.  Put  into  a  chopping-tray,  and  mince 
very  fine. 

A  little  before  serving-time,  put  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  become 


VEGETABLES.  525 


melted,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  the  mix- 
ture until  it  becomes  smooth  and  frothy ;  then  add  the 
chopped  spinach,  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Add  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  suit  your  taste,  and  after  cooking  for  three  minutes, 
serve  on  toast. 

Stuffed  Peppers. 

A  vegetable  that  is  coming  into  much  favor  is  the 
green  Spanish  sweet  pepper.  It  is  usually  served  stuffed, 
and  in  a  course  with  meats.  For  eight  good-sized  peppers 
take  a  pint  of  fine-chopped  cooked  meat,  half  a  pint  of 
grated  stale  bread,  half  a  pint  of  water  or  stock,  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  each  of  summer  savory, 
thyme,  and  sage,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  dried  bread 
crumbs,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  stem  end  of  each  pepper,  and 
then  remove  the  seeds.  When  all  have  been  treated  in 
this  way,  put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  and  set  where  they  will  simmer  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour. 

Meanwhile  mix  all  the  ingredients  except  one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  butter  and  the  dried  crumbs.  When 
the  peppers  have  been  cooked  for  fifteen  minutes,  drain 
them,  and  fill  them  with  the  dressing.  Sprinkle  the  tops 
with  the  crumbs,  and  dot  with  the  remainder  of  the 
butter.  Place  in  a  pan,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Serve  very  hot. 

The  ends  that  are  cut  off  may  be  boiled  with  the  pep- 
pers, and  put  in  their  original  positions  after  the  peppers 
are  stuffed.  In  this  case  the  crumbs  and  butter  need 
not  be  used. 

*  Fried  Egg-plant. 

Cut  an  egg-plant  in  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick. 
Pare  these,  and  lay  them  in  a  deep,  flat  dish,  and  pour 
upon  them  a  quart  of  boiling  water,  to  which  has  been 


526          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

added  a  table-spoonful  of  salt.  After  the  slices  have 
stood  for  an  hour  in  the  water,  drain  and  pepper  them ; 
then  dip  them  into  beaten  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry 
in  boiling  fat  for  eight  minutes.  Serve  immediately. 

*  Stuffed   Egg-plant. 

Of  course,  an  egg-plant  is  needed ;  and  the  other  things 
used  are :  a  pint  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  an  egg,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  onion,  and  the  same  quantity  of  chopped 
parsley. 

Boil  the  egg-plant  for  ten  minutes ;  then  take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  has  become  partially  cooled, 
divide  it  into  two  pieces,  cutting  lengthwise.  With  a 
spoon  scoop  out  the  greater  part  of  the  vegetable,  being 
careful  not  to  break  the  skin. 

Cook  the  butter,  onion,  and  parsley  in  a  large  frying- 
pan  for  three  minutes;  then  add  the  pulp  of  the  egg- 
plant and  the  seasoning,  and  continue  the  cooking  for 
ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 

Meanwhile  beat  the  egg  well,  and  at  the  end  of  the  ten 
minutes  add  it  to  the  mixture ;  then  remove  the  frying- 
pan  from  the  fire.  Put  the  two  shells  of  the  plant  into 
a  baking-pan,  and  fill  them  with  cooked  mixture.  Sprinkle 
the  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Send  to  the  table  very  hot. 

Stuffed  egg-plant  may  be  served  as  a  vegetable,  with 
meats,  or  as  an  entree. 

*  Baked   Egg-plant. 

Besides  one  good-sized  egg-plant,  use  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  cupfuls  of  grated  bread 
crumbs,  and  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  stock  or  water. 

Cut  the  plant  in  two,  lengthwise,  and  scoop  out  the 


VEGETABLES.  527 


pulp  with  a  spoon,  leaving  the  skin  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  that  the  plant  may  hold  its  shape.  Chop  the 
pulp  rather  fine,  and  add  to  it  one  teaspoonful  of  the 
salt,  half  the  pepper,  and  all  the  butter.  Cook  in  a 
frying-pan  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently ;  then 
add  the  water,  and  one  cupful  of  the  crumbs.  Sprinkle 
the  interior  of  the  shells  with  the  remainder  of  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fill  them  with  the  cooked  mixture. 
Sprinkle  the  second  cupful  of  crumbs  over  the  surface 
of  the  mixture.  Place  the  two  parts  of  the  plant  in  a 
baking-pan,  and  pour  enough  hot  water  into  the  pan  to 
come  half-way  up  the  sides  of  the  plant.  Bake  for  one 
hour.  At  serving-time  spread  a  napkin  on  a  flat  dish 
before  placing  the  plant  on  it.  Serve  hot. 

Cooked  by  this  rule,  the  egg-plant  will  be  found  very 
delicate,  and  may  be  served  either  as  a  vegetable  or  an 
entre'e. 

*  Macedoine  of  Vegetables. 

For  eight  or  ten  persons  use  one  pint  of  cooked  cauu- 
flower,  one  pint  of  carrots,  cut  into  fine  cubes,  one  can 
of  French  peas  or  French  beans,  three  gills  of  white 
stock,  half  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  three  teaspooiifuls 
of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
two  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  onion,  and  one  bay  leaf. 

Cook  the  carrots  in  three  quarts  of  water  for  forty 
minutes ;  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  to  the  carrots 
the  cooked  cauliflower,  broken  into  flowerets,  the  peas, 
rinsed  and  drained,  the  sugar,  half  the  pepper,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  the  salt,  and  one  gill  of  the  stock.  Cover 
the  stew-pan,  and  set  it  where  its  contents  will  cook  for 
ten  minutes. 

Now  put  the  butter  and  flour  into  a  stew-pan,  and  mix 
them  until  smooth.  Heat  the  remainder  of  the  stock, 
and  pour  it  upon  the  mixture.  Set  the  stew-pan  on  the 


528          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fire,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils.  At  that  time 
add  the  onion,  bay  leaf,  and  the  remainder  of  the  salt 
and  pepper.  Cook  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  milk 
or  cream,  and  boil  up  once.  Strain  this  sauce  over  the 
vegetables,  and  arrange  them  on  a  warm  dish.  Serve 
immediately. 

This  makes  a  nice  dish  to  serve  with  cutlets,  chops, 
braised  tongue,  or  any  meat  entree.  It  also  is  a  suitable 
entre'e  if  served  by  itself. 


The  materials  required  are :  a  can  of  mixed  vegetables, 
a  table-spoonful  of  beef  extract,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  half  a  cupful 
of  water. 

Turn  the  vegetables  into  a  strainer,  and  pour  cold  water 
over  them ;  then  place  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  other 
ingredients,  and  cook  over  a  hot  fire  for  eight  minutes, 
shaking  the  stew-pan  occasionally.  Serve  hot. 

If  it  be  inconvenient  to  get  beef  extract,  use  half  a 
cupful  of  stock  instead  of  the  water. 

Vegetables  a  la  Jardiniere. 

For  eight  or  ten  persons  use  one  can  of  French  peas  or 
one  quart  of  fresh  peas,  when  in  season,  one  pint  each  of 
carrot  and  turnip  cubes,  three  gills  of  any  kind  of  stock, 
three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  butter,  three  teaspoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

Put  the  carrots  and  turnips  in  separate  saucepans, 
with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  to  each  vegetable,  and 
cook  the  carrots  for  forty  minutes,  and  the  turnips  for 
thirty.  Now,  if  fresh  peas  are  to  be  used,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan,  with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them, 
after  the  other  vegetables  have  been  cooking  for  ten 
minutes,  and  cook  them  for  half  an  hour.  If  very  young 
and  tender,  they  may  be  cooked  in  twenty  minutes ;  if 


VEGETABLES.  529 


old,  they  may  require  forty  minutes'  boiling.  In  case 
French  peas  be  used,  open  the  can  and  pour  the  peas 
into  a  strainer.  Pour  over  them  a  quart  of  cold  water, 
and  after  it  has  been  drained  off,  put  the  peas  into  a 
saucepan. 

When  the  turnips  and  carrots  havi,  been  cooked,  drain 
off  all  the  hot  water.  Add  to  each  saucepan  of  vegeta- 
bles one-third  of  the  sugar,  salt,  batter,  and  stock,  and 
set  the  pans  where  their  contents  will  boil  rapidly. 
Shake  the  pans  occasionally,  and  continue  the  cooking 
until  all  the  stock  has  been  absorbed.  Spread  the  tur- 
nips on  a  warm  platter,  making  the  border  rather  thick, 
and  having  the  thickness  decrease  toward  the  centre  of 
the  dish.  Heap  the  carrots  on  the  turnip,  covering  all 
except  a  border  about  an  inch  wide.  Flatten  the  top  of 
the  mound  of  carrot,  and  heap  the  peas  upon  it. 

This  is  an  exceedingly  attractive  dish.  It  may  be 
served  in  a  dinner  or  luncheon  as  an  accompaniment  of 
an  entree  of  cold  meat,  or  may  itself  pass  as  an  entree. 
Potato  balls,  or  potatoes  cut  into  half-inch  cubes,  boiled 
for  ten  minutes,  drained,  and  then  seasoned  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  turnip.  In  this  case  use  a 
quart  of  the  potato  balls  or  cubes. 

Curry  of  Vegetables. 

For  this  dish  use  one  large  onion,  a  sour  apple,  a  pint 
each  of  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery  cubes,  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry-powder,  one  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  three  generous  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Mince  the  onion.  Paz?e  the  apple,  and  cut  it  into  thin 
slices.  Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
as  soon  as  it  becomes  melted,  add  the  onion  and  apple. 
Stir  for  two  minuses,  and  then  add  the  other  vegetables. 


530          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Continue  the  stirring  until  the  vegetables  begin  to  turn 
brown ;  then  add  the  flour  and  seasoning.  Stir  again, 
and  then  pour  the  stock  or  milk  into  the  stew-pan. 
Cover  the  pan,  and  let  the  contents  simmer  for  an  hour. 
Serve  on  a  warm  platter,  with  a  border  of  rice. 
This  is  a  nice  dish  for  luncheon. 

Ragout  of  Turnips. 

Use  a  quart  of  turnips,  cut  into  cubes,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  heap- 
ing teaspoon  ful  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  one  cupful  of  stock  or  milk. 

Put  the  butter  on  the  stove  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  it 
becomes  melted,  add  the  turnips  and  chopped  onion.  Stir 
until  the  vegetables  begin  to  turn  brown ;  then  add  the 
salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  flour,  and  stir  two  minutes  longer. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the  stock  or  milk.  Cover  the 
stew-pan,  and  set  it  where  the  mixture  will  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  as  a  vegetable  or  as  an  entree. 

Jerusalem  artichokes  may  be  treated  in  the  same 
manner.  They  should  be  served  without  delay. 

*  Vegetables  in  Sauces. 

Cauliflower,  Lima  beans,  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  Jeru- 
salem artichokes,  onions,  salsify,  and  green  peas  may 
be  served  in  a  poulette  or  Bechamel  sauce,  the  vegeta- 
ble taking  the  name  of  the  sauce  used,  as  onions  a  la 
Bechamel.  When  served  in  this  way  the  vegetable  may 
accompany  an  entree  of  meat  or  fish,  or  may  itself  be 
used  as  an  entree.  Any  vegetable  served  with  either 
sauce  must  be  boiled,  thoroughly  drained,  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper  before  the  sauce  is  added. 

*  Wilted  Cucumbers. 

Cut  a  good-sized  cucumber  in  very  thin  slices,  and 
soak  for  at  least  half  an  hour  in  a  pint  of  cold  water  into 


VEGETABLES.  531 

which  has  been  put  a  table-spoonful  of  salt.  At  the  end 
of  the  half-hour  put  the  slices  into  a  strong,  clean  towel, 
and  wring  the  towel  until  it  is  impossible  to  extract  any 
more  moisture.  On  opening  the  towel  the  slices  will  be 
found  to  be  wilted  and  flabby.  Put  them  into  a  dish 
with  cracked  ice.  They  are  said  to  be  less  injurious 
served  in  this  way  than  in  the  ordinary  style ;  and 
some  epicures  call  them  delicious,  spite  of  the  loss  of 
crispness. 

Stuffed  Cucumbers. 

These  are  delicious,  and  may  be  served  either  as  a 
vegetable  or  as  an  entree.  For  six  or  eight  persons  use 
four  cucumbers  of  good  size.  Pare  them  lightly,  and 
after  cutting  off  the  ends,  cut  each  cucumber  into  two 
parts.  Kemove  the  seeds  with  an  apple-corer.  Put  a 
table-spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quart  of  cold  water  into  a 
basin,  and  drop  the  pared  and  cored  cucumbers  into  the 
liquid  ;  then  set  away  in  a  cool  place. 

Chop  enough  veal  —  free  of  skin  and  gristle  —  to  make 
a  generous  half-cupful  of  pulp.  Probably  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  will  be  enough.  Now  put  half  a  gill  of  milk  and 
one-third  of  a  gill  of  stale  bread,  free  of  hard  parts, 
into  a  small  saucepan,  and  cook  until  a  smooth  paste  is 
formed.  Ten  minutes'  cooking  probably  will  suffice. 
Mix  thoroughly  with  the  veal  this  paste  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  thyme,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter, 
and  a  well-beaten  egg. 

Kemove  the  cucumbers  from  the  basin  of  water,  and  wipe 
them  with  a  soft  towel.  Fill  them  with  the  force-meat 
just  prepared,  packing  solidly,  and  being  careful  to  have 
the  ends  of  the  cucumbers  smooth.  Lay  the  cucumbers 
in  a  stew-pan,  and  pour  over  them  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
boiling  veal  stock  or  chicken  stock.  Add  a  bay  leaf ; 
and  if  the  stock  was  not  seasoned  when  it  was  made, 


532          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

add  also  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-fifth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Cover,  and  simmer  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  At  serving-time  place  the  cucumbers  on 
thin  strips  of  toast ;  and  after  pouring  over  them  a 
sauce  made  as  directed  below,  serve  without  delay. 

Sauce.  —  Eub  together  in  a  saucepan  until  smooth, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  generous  table- 
spoonful  of  flour ;  then  add  three  gills  of  white  stock,  — 
chicken  or  veal,  —  a  piece  of  carrot  of  about  the  size  of 
a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  a  slice  of  onion  of  the  same  size,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  a  clove,  a  bay  leaf,  a  light  grating  of 
nutmeg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fifth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  white  pepper.  Simmer  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and 
strain  the  sauce. 

THE    FRENCH    ARTICHOKE. 

This  vegetable,  which  has  not  been  very  common  and 
whose  value  has  not  been  well  understood,  is  becoming 
so  popular  that  the  supply  is  increasing,  and  in  time  the 
cost  will  be  comparatively  low. 

The  artichoke  belongs  to  the  thistle  family ;  the  flower 
ig  picked  before  it  opens.  In  England  and  France  an 
artichoke  may  be  bought  for  two  or 
three  cents,  but  in  our  Northern  markets 
we  are  obliged  to  pay  from  twenty  to 
forty  cents  apiece;  thus  making  a  dish 
of  the  vegetables  quite  expensive.  In 
the  South  they  are  cheaper,  and  of 
course  better,  because  they  can  be  ob- 
tained fresh. 

There  are  many  ways  of  cooking  arti- 
Artichoke.       chokes  ;  but  as  in  the  case  of  nearly  all 
vegetables,  the  simplest  is  the  best.    The 
artichokes  should  be  green  and  crisp ;  if  old,  or  if  cooked 
after  they  have  been  picked  some  time,  they  will  be 


VEGETABLES.  533 


unsatisfactory.  If  the  leaves  be  brown  and  dry,  the 
artichokes  will  be  dark  and  tough,  and  it  does  not  pay 
to  buy  or  to  cook  them  when  in  that  condition.  In  buy- 
ing the  vegetable  select  the  small  green  heads  rather 
than  the  large  ones  that  have  leaves  with  broken  and 
dark  edges. 

When  very  small  and  tender,  the  artichoke  may  be 
served  raw  as  a  salad. 

The  vegetable  consists  of  three  parts,  —  the  bottom, 
leaves,  and  choke.  The  first  two  parts  alone  are  used ; 
the  choke  may  be  removed  or  not,  as  one  pleases.  Only 
the  base  of  the  leaves  is  edible.  If  the  choke  is  to  be 
removed,  cut  out  the  stem  and  save  it,  and  with  the 
point  of  a  sharp  knife  cut  around  the  base  of  the  choke 
and  draw  the  choke  out.  Trim  the  top  of  the  artichoke. 
When  this  has  been 
done,  wash  the  vege. 
table,  and  soak  it  for 
half  an  hour  in  salted 
water,  —  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  to 
two  quarts  of  water.  Artichokes  after  Trimming. 

It  will  then  be  ready  for  cooking  by  any  mode.  If  it  is 
simply  to  be  boiled,  and  served  with  a  sauce,  —  which  is 
decidedly  the  best  mode,  —  press  the  stem  back  into  the 
head,  and  put  the  vegetable  into  a  stew-pan  with  boiling 
water  enough  to  cover  it.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  for  every  two  quarts 
of  water.  A  gentle  boiling  for  half  an  hour  will  be  a 
sufficient  cooking  unless  the  artichoke  be  very  old ;  in 
which  case  ten  or  fifteen  minutes'  extra  cooking  will  be 
required.  On  taking  from  the  water,  drain  well.  Serve 
hot  with  Bechamel,  Hollandaise,  or  butter  sauce,  or  serve 
as  a  salad,  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper.  The 
sauce  may  be  poured  around  the  artichokes  or  served 
separately. 

The  leaves  of  the  artichoke  are  broken  off  with  the 


584          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fingers,  and  the  base,  or  fleshy  end,  is  dipped  into  the 
sauce. 

When  the  heads  are  small,  there  should  be  one  for  each 
person ;  but  when  very  large  or  expensive,  they  may  be 
cut  into  two  or  more  parts. 


Stuffed  Artichokes. 

Trim  four  artichokes  and  remove  the  chokes.  Boil 
them  for  half  an  hour  in  salted  and  acidulated  water. 
On  taking  them  from  the  water,  drain  them.  Stuff  them 
with  a  chicken  force-meat,  and  arrange  them  in  a  shallow 
baking-pan.  Baste  well  with  white  sauce,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour,  basting  twice  in  that 
time  with  the  sauce.  Serve  on  a  flat  dish,  with  white 
sauce. 

The  leaves  must  be  trimmed  very  short  when  the  arti 
chokes  are  to  be  stuffed. 


Artichoke   Quarters   with   Dutch   Sauce. 

Cut  the  leaves  of  the  artichokes  very  short.     Cut  off 
the  tops,  and  then  cut  in  quarters.     Kemove  the  chokes. 

Soak  the  quarters  in  salted 
water  for  half  an  hour;  then 
drain  off  all  the  water,  and 
put  the  quarters  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  one  table-spoonful 

Artichoke  Quarters.  °f  butter'   One    ^spoonful   of 

salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon 

juice,  and  one  pint  of  white  stock  for  two  artichokes. 
Simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  the  quarters,  and 
arrange  them  in  a  shallow  dish.  Pour  Dutch  sauce 
around  them,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES.  535 


Artichoke   Bottoms  with   Hollandaise   Sauce. 

Keinove  all  the  leaves 
from  six  artichokes  (they 
may  be  used  for  a  puree  of 
artichokes).  Take  out  the 
chokes,  and  trim  the  bottoms. 
Cook  the  same  as  artichoke  Bottoms  of  Artichokes, 

quarters.    Arrange  them  in  a 
shallow  dish;  and  pour  Hollandaise  sauce  over  them. 


MUSHROOMS. 

During  the  summer  and  fall  mushrooms  abound  in  the 
fields  in  many  parts  of  the  country.  In  some  sections 
mushroom  parties  may  be  seen  almost  every  pleasant 
morning  throughout  September  and  October.  The  wild 
funguses  are  as  much  more  delicate  and  more  finely  fla- 
vored than  the  cultivated  mushrooms  as  the  wild  straw- 
berries are  superior  in  flavor  to  the  fruit  usually  sold  in 
the  market  from  gardens.  Mushrooms  should  be  used 
while  fresh,  and  should  be  prepared  carefully  but  simply. 
Put  into  a  bowl  two  quarts  of  water  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  After  cutting  the  stalks  from  the  mushrooms, 
and  throwing  them  away,  pare  the  cups.  As  each  is 
pared,  drop  it  into  the  bowl.  When  ready  to  cook  the 
mushrooms,  drain  them  as  speedily  as  possible  after 
removing  them  from  the  liquid.  Wild  mushrooms  give 
an  incomparable  flavor  to  stews,  ragouts,  and  sauces  for 
meats. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. 

Put  into  a  stew-pan  a  quart  of  cleaned  mushrooms, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  mixed  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 


536          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  boil  gently  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  frequently.     Serve  very  hot. 

Some  folk  doubtless  will  think  the  dish  is  improved 
if  they  add  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice  just  before 
removing  the  mushrooms  from  the  fire.  Stock  may  be 
used  in  place  of  the  half-cupful  of  water,  and  will  pro- 
duce a  better  flavor. 


A  simpler  mode  of  stewing  mushrooms  is  to  peel  and 
wash  them ;  then  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  and  put  them 
in  a  stew-pan,  with  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper,  for  every 
pint  of  the  mushroom.  Simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Wild 
mushrooms  are  delicious  cooked  this  way. 

Mushrooms  Stewed  in  Cream. 

Prepare  the  mushrooms  as  for  the  plain  stew,  save 
that  only  half  as  much  water  should  be  used ;  and  after 
five  minutes'  boiling,  add  a  cupful  of  cream.  Keep  the 
mushrooms  on  the  stove  until  the  liquid  boils  up. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. 

Clean  a  quantity  of  large  mushrooms,  and  put  them 
into  a  double-broiler,  with  all  the  cups  lying  the  same 
way.  Place  over  clear  coals,  cup  side  down,  and  cook 
for  two  minutes;  then  turn  the  broiler,  and  cook  for 
two  minutes  on  the  other  side.  Remove  from  the  broiler 
carefully,  because  the  cups  will  be  full  of  juice,  and 
sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  bit  of 
butter  on  each  mushroom,  and  place  on  buttered  toast. 
Serve  immediately. 

Baked  Mushrooms. 

Use  large  mushrooms,  and  use  also  as  many  slices  of 
bread  as  there  are  mushrooms,  and  have  them  about  the 


VEGETABLES.  537 


same  size  as  the  latter.  Clean  the  mushrooms,  and  put 
them  into  a  basin  of  lemon  water  (the  juice  of  a  lemon 
to  two  quarts  of  water).  Toast  the  bread,  and  dip  it 
quickly  into  hot  water.  Butter  a  shallow  cake-pan,  and 
lay  the  slices  of  toast  in  it ;  then  butter  the  toast,  and 
place  a  mushroom  on  each  slice,  cup  side  up.  Sprinkle 
the  mushrooms  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  on  each  one.  Cover  the  pan 
with  another  that  has  been  rinsed  in  cold  water,  and  set 
in  the  oven  for  eight  minutes.  Serve  immediately. 

Stuffed  Mushrooms. 

For  twelve  large  mushrooms,  use  six  table-spoonfuls 
of  line-chopped  cooked  chicken,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
stale  bread,  one  gill  of  stock,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  onion  juice,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  one  cupful  of  bread  crumbs, 
grated  tine. 

Soak  together  for  ten  minutes  the  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  stale  bread  and  the  stock.  Add  the  meat,  salt,  pepper, 
onion  juice,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  the  butter.  Let 
this  stand  while  the  mushrooms  are  being  prepared. 

Cut  off  the  stalks,  and  pare  the  mushrooms.  As  each 
one  is  pared,  drop  it  into  a  dish  in  which  there  is  a  quart 
of  water  and  the  juice  of  the  lemon.  When  all  are  done, 
take  them  from  the  acidulated  water,  and  place  them  in 
a  shallow  baking-pan,  having  the  cup  side  up.  Put  one- 
twelfth  of  the  stuffing  in  each  mushroom.  Sprinkle  with 
the  grated  crumbs,  and  dot  with  the  second  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter.  Cook  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  ten 
minutes. 

*  Macaroni. 

Macaroni  should  be  broken  into  pieces  about  three  or 
four  inches  long,  and  washed  quickly  in  cold  water. 


538          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

Immediately  put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  rapidly, 
with  the  cover  off  the  saucepan,  for  half  an  hour.  When 
it  has  been  boiling  for  fifteen  minutes,  add  the  salt. 
There  should  be  three  quarts  of  water  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  for  half  a  pound  of  macaroni.  Drain 
off  the  water,  and  turn  the  macaroni  into  a  vegetable- 
dish.  Pour  three  gills  of  sauce  over  it.  Any  of  the 
following-named  sauces  may  be  served  with  it:  tomato, 
white,  brown,  poulette,  Bechamel,  or  cream.  Or  it  may 
be  put  into  an  escalop  or  gratin  dish,  and  a  white  or 
cream  sauce  be  poured  over  it.  Then  sprinkle  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  a  cupful  of 
grated  bread  crumbs  over  it.  Dot  with  a  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  and  brown  in  the  oven.  If  cheese  be  not  liked, 

-it "may  be  oniitted.  The  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Parme- 
san give  but  a  slight  flavor  of  cheese.  If  a  strong  flavor 
be  desired,  use  a  cupful  of  freshly  grated  domestic  cheese 

'and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  Parmesan.  In  this  case  add 
one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenue  to  the  sauce. 

*  Macaroni  with  Brown  Sauce. 

Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  for  half  an  hour 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  two  quarts  of  water.  While  it  is  boiling  make  a 
sauce  in  the  following  manner :  — 

-Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  on  the  stove  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  becomes  hot,  add  two  level 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  brown; 
then  draw  the  pan  to  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  ami 
gradually  add  a  cupful  of  brown  stock  and  a  cupful  of 
strained  tomato.  Move  the  pan  forward  to  a  hot  place, 
and  stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils ;  then  simmer  for  five 
minutes.  Season  with  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  half  the  macaroni  into  an  escalop-dish,  and  sprin- 
kle over  it  one  table-spoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese  ;  then 


VEGETABLES.  539 


pour  on  half  the  sauce.  Now  put  the  rest  of  the  maca- 
roni into  the  dish,  and  add  the  remainder  of  the  sauce. 
Sprinkle  a  second  table-spoonful  of  cheese  over  the  mix- 
ture. Set  the  dish  in  a  rather  hot  oven,  and  cook  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  It  is  a  very  nice  entree,  or  may  be 
served  with  the  vegetables  in  some  other  course  of  a 
-dinner. 

Macaroni  a  la  Milanaise. 

Anybody  fond  of  macaroni  will  find  this  to  be  an  ex- 
cellent mode  of  cooking  it.  Of  macaroni,  only  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  is  required ;  and  the  other  materials  for  the 
dish  are  :  a  pint  of  white  stock,  half  a  pint  of  cream  or 
milk,  half  a  can  of  mushrooms  or  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  fresh  ones,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  slice  of  onion,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  generous  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

After  breaking  the  macaroni  into  pieces  about  three 
mches  long,  wash  it,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with 
two  quarts  of  boiling  water  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 
Let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour,  and  meanwhile  make  a  sauce. 
Put  the  butter  and  flour  into  a  small  stew-pan,  and  beat 
to  a  cream ;  then  add  the  onion,  carrot,  pepper,  remain- 
ing salt,  and  stock,  and  heat  slowly.  When  the  sauce 
begins  to  boil,  set  it  back  where  it  will  only  simmer  for 
about  twenty  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the 
milk  or  cream,  and  then  strain  the  sauce.  Pour  the 
water  from  the  macaroni,  and  in  its  place  put  the  pauce 
and  mushrooms.  Cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 


Spaghetti  &  Tltalienne. 

Use  for  six  persons  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  spaghetti, 
a  cupful  of  white  stock,  —  chicken  or  veal,  —  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  two  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper, 


540          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half  a  cupful  of 
American  cheese,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Parmesan 
cheese. 

Break  the  spaghetti  into  pieces  about  five  inches  long. 
Put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  rapidly,  with  the  saucepan  uncovered,  for 
twenty  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  pour  the  spa- 
ghetti into  a  colander,  and  drain  it  well.  Return  it  to 
the  stew-pan,  and,  after  adding  the  salt,  pepper,  and 
stock,  set  the  pan  on  the  stove  again.  Beat  the  flour  and 
butter  together,  and  stir  them  into  the  mixture  as  soon 
as  it  begins  to  boil.  Cook  for  five  minutes;  then  add 
the  cheese,  broken  into  fine  bits  ;  and  continue  the  cook- 
ing until  the  cheese  becomes  melted,  —  say  for  three 
or  four  minutes.  The  pan  must  be  shaken  vigorously 
several  times  while  the  cheese  is  melting.  Serve  the 
spaghetti  without  delay. 

*  Spaghetti  and  Cheese. 

If  the  dish  is  to  be  served  to  six  or  eight  persons,  use 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  spaghetti,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half 
a  cupful  of  soft  mild  cheese,  broken  into  bits,  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

After  breaking  the  spaghetti  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  long,  wash  it  quickly  in  cold  water.  Put  it  into 
a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  it 
gently  for  half  an  hour  with  the  cover  off  the  saucepan. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  pour  off  the  water  and  sprinkle 
two-thirds  of  the  salt  over  the  spaghetti.  Next  put  the 
spaghetti  into  an  escalop-dish,  and  after  pouring  some 
sauce  over  it,  bake  it  for  five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 
Serve  immediately. 

To  make  the  sauce  which  is  to  be  poured  over  the 
spaghetti,  put  the  milk  and  cheese  on  the  stove  in  a 


VEGETABLES.  541 


double-boiler ;  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add 
the  seasoning  to  them ;  pour  about  half  of  the  hot  mix- 
ture from  the  double-boiler  upon  the  eggs,  and  after  blend- 
ing thoroughly,  stir  into  the  liquid  in  the  double-boiler ; 
add  the  butter,  and  cook  for  one  minute,  stirring  all  the 
while. 

This  dish  is  a  nice  one  for  luncheon  or  dinner.  If  a 
strong  flavor  of  cheese  be  desired,  use  a  cupful  of  that 
article  instead  of  half  a  cupful. 

*  Noodles. 

Prepare  the  noodles  the  same  as  for  noodle  soup. 
After  they  have  been  drained,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one -fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  scant 
half-pint  of  hot  milk.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve 
as  a  vegetable. 

If  there  be  a  plentiful  supply  of  soup  stock  on  hand, 
use  two  quarts  of  it  —  instead  of  some  water  —  for  boil- 
ing the  noodles,  and  cook  them  for  half  an  hour.  In 
this  case  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  to  them,  aiid 
serve  without  any  other  seasoning.  The  stock  may  be 
used  the  next  day  for  a  cream  soup. 

*  Boiled  Rice. 

Wash  one  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters.  In  the  first 
water  rub  the  rice  well  between  the  hands.  Now  pour 
off  this  water,  and  simply  rinse  the  rice  in  the  other  two 
waters.  Cover  with  clean  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  one 
or  two  hours.  Have  three  quarts  of  boiling  water  in 
a  large  stew-pan.  Turn  the  rice  into  it,  and  cook  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes.  The  time  will  depend 
upon  the  kind  of  rice  used ;  but  if  it  be  good  Southern 
rice,  and  not  more  than  a  year  old,  it  will  cook  in  fifteen 
minutes.  When  it  has  been  cooking  for  ten  minutes, 
add  a  geueroui  table-spoonful  of  salt. 


542          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

At  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  press  a  few  grains  o 
rice  between  the  fingers,  and  if  they  be  found  soft,  it  ia 
an  indication  that  the  rice  is  cooked  sufficiently.  Turn 
it,  with  the  water,  into  a  colander,  and  drain  well.  Be 
very  particular  to  drain  it  the  moment  it  is  done.  Never 
put  a  cover  on  the  stew-pan,  and  never  stir  the  rice. 

If  these  directions  be  followed  carefully,  every  grain 
of  rice  will  be  separate,  and  all  will  be  perfectly  tender. 

*  Boiled   Rice,  Southern  Style. 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters,  rubbing  it  well 
between  the  hands.  Now  put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  boil- 
ing water.  Place  it  where  it  will  boil  rapidly  for  fifteen 
minutes  ;  then  set  the  pan  back  where  the  rice  will  cook 
slowly  for  an  hour  or  more.  This  mode  gives  a  dish  of 
rice  that  is  sweet  and  dry. 

.^  .       :    «# 

*  Turkish  Rice. 

A  cupful  of  rice,  one  of  strained  tomato,  two  of  cold 
water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  two  ounces  of  fine-chopped  ham  are  the  ingredi- 
ents required. 

After  washing  the  rice  in  three  waters,  put  it  into 
a  stew-pan  with  the  other  materials,  and  set  upon  the 
stove.  When  the  dish  begins  to  boil,  put  the  stew-pan 
back  where  its  contents  will  hardly  simmer  during  the 
next  forty  minutes.  At  serving-time  turn  the  rice  into  a 
warm  dish.  Do  not  use  a  spoon  in  making  this  transfer, 
as  that  would  be  likely  to  break  the  grains  and  mar  the 
appearance  of  the  dish* 

Turkish  rice  is  nice  for  serving  with  cold  meat  or  fish 
or  warmed-over  meat. 

••*  Curry  of  Rice. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  one  cupful  of  rice,  two- 
cupfuls  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  two-,  tgaspppnfuls  ;pf , 


VEGETABLES.  543 


salt,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  curry-powder,  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
onion,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  then  let  it  soak  for 
two  hours  in  fresh  cold  water.  At  the  end  of  the  two 
hours  drain  it  thoroughly.  Put  the  butter  and  onion  in 
a  stew-pan,  and  cook  until  the  onion  acquires  a  light 
straw-color.  Now  add  the  rice,  and  stir  over  a  hot  fire 
for  five  minutes.  Draw  the  stew-pan  aside,  and  add 
the  curry-powder,  pepper,  and  salt.  Stir  well,  and  then 
add  the  water.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  let  the  con- 
tents boil  rapidly  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  set  back  to  a 
place  where  the  cooking  will  go  on  slowly  for  forty  or 
fifty  minutes. 

This  vegetable  dish  is  nice  with  any  kind  of  fish  or 
meat  that  has  been  prepared  in  a  sauce. 

*  Baked  Hominy. 

After  washing  a  cupful  of  hominy  in  three  waters, 
pour  upon  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  and  boil 
for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
a  scant  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk. 
Butter  a  deep  pudding-dish,  and  pour  the  mixture  into 
it.  Bake  for  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Prepared  in  this  way,  hominy  answers  either  as  a 
vegetable  or  as  a  pudding. 

*  Baked  Beans. 

It  is  rather  singular  that  that  particular  section  of  the 
country  which  is  credited  with  the  greatest  consumption 
of  beans  does  not  produce  the  vegetable  in  large  quanti- . 
ties,  but  depends  upon  the  Middle  States  for  apart  of 
the  supply.  No  other  vegetable  has  so  great  a  food 
value,  though  peas  and  lentils  are  almost  as  nutritious; 
and  despite  the  light  manner  in  which  reference  is  com- 
mp.nly.made  to  the  bean,  the  country  is  much  indebted 


,     544          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

to  it  as  food  for  man  and  beast.  One  frequent  failing  in 
the  preparation  of  beans  is  to  allow  too  little  time  for 
cooking.  The  process  of  cooking  them  properly  is  a 
long  and  slow  one,  and  forgetfulness  in  this  respect  is 
the  reason  why  the  dish  is  often  unsatisfactory. 

If  the  family  consist  of  eight  or  ten  persons,  a  quart 
of  dry  pea  beans  will  be  sufficient  to  cook.  Use  also  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  a  table-spoonful  of  molasses,  a  gener- 
ous table-spoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Examine  the  beans  carefully,  removing  all  that  are 
not  good,  and  all  foreign  substances ;  then  wash  them 
carefully.  Let  them  soak  over  night  in  a  pan  containing 
two  gallons  of  cold  water.  In  the  morning  pour  off  this 
water,  and  rinse  the  beans  in  cold  water ;  then  put  them 
in  a  stew-pan  with  six  quarts  of  cold  water.  Score  the 
rind  of  the  pork,  cutting  it  into  little  squares,  and  being 
careful  not  to  cut  deeper  than  the  rind.  Put  the  pork 
into  the  stew-pan  with  the  beans,  and  set  on  the  stove. 
Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  simmer  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  from  the  time  they  begin  to  boil.  At  the  end 
of  the  fifteen  minutes  turn  the  beans  into  a  colander, 
and  drain  off  all  the  water.  Pour  cold  water  over  them 
to  rinse  them  thoroughly.  Put  half  the  beans  into  an 
earthen  pot,  and  then  put  in  the  pork,  rind  side  up. 
Now  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  beans.  Mix  the 
molasses,  mustard,  salt,  and  soda  with  one  quart  of 
boiling  water,  and  pour  over  the  pork  and  beans.  If 
the  liquid  does  not  wholly  cover  the  beans,  add  more 
boiling  water.  There  should  be  only  enough  to  come  to 
the  top  of  the  beans.  Cover  the  pot,  and  cook  the  beans 
slowly  for  ten  hours.  Boiling  water  should  be  added 
from  time  to  time  when  it  is  found  that  there  is  not 
enough  to  cover  the  beans. 

At  serving-time  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  place  the 
pork  in  the  centre.  If  the  beans  have  been  properly 
cooked,  each  will  be  whole,  yet  all  will  be  tender  and 


VEGETABLES.  545 


have  a  rich  reddish  color.     Care  and  slow  cooking  alone 
will  give  this  result. 

*  Stewed  Beans. 

Wash  one  quart  of  beans  (scarlet  runners  are  the 
best),  and  soak  them  over  night.  In  the  morning  set 
them  on  the  fire  with  half  a  pound  of  mixed  salt  pork. 
They  can  be  cooked  in  four  hours,  but  will  be  better 
cooked  an  hour  longer.  If  the  pork  should  not  flavor  it 
enough,  season  with  a  little  salt. 


Ml  oT 


546          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES. 


BRIOCHE   PASTE. 

DISHES  made  of  brioche  paste  are  not  often  found  in 
this  country  except  at  the  foreign  pastry-shops.  It  is  a 
pity  that  this  should  be  the  case,  for  they  are  light  and 
healthful.  There  appears  to  be  an  idea  that  they  are 
difficult  to  make,  but  they  are  not  more  so  than  many 
which  are  quite  common  in  every  household.  Care  must 
be  taken  that  the  ingredients  are  used  in  the  proper 
proportion,  and  that  the  paste  is  properly  worked,  raised, 
chilled,  and  baked.  If  this  be  done,  the  cakes  will  be  as 
good  as  those  found  in  any  of  the  first-class  shops  in 
New  York.  In  Paris  a  man  got  rich  by  making  a  spe- 
cialty of  warm  loaves  of  brioche.  In  New  York  there 
are  several  small  pastry-shops,  kept  by  Frenchmen,  where 
plain  brioche  loaves  are  for  sale  on  Saturdays,  and  there 
is  a  large  demand  for  them.  It  is  hoped  that  many 
readers  will  try  the  simple  rules  given  in  this  article. 
With  the  plain  paste  there  can  be  made  the  plain  loaf, 
baba,  wine  cakes,  rum  cakes,  Savarin,  fritters,  Munich 
cakes,  etc.  These  various  cakes  are  made  by  the  addi- 
tion of  fruits  and  flavors,  and  by  changes  of  shape  and  in 
the  modes  of  cooking. 

To  Make  the  Paste. 

For  two  large  loaves  there  will  be  required  one  quart 
of  flour,  one  generous  cupful  of  butter,  one  gill  of  water, 
one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  547 

a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  and  eight  small  eggs,  or 
seven  large  ones. 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  water,  which  should  be  blood 
warm.  Put  some  boiling  water  in  a  small  bowl,  and  let 
it  stand  for  five  minutes  ;  then  pour  out  the  water,  wipe 
the  bowl  dry,  and  put  a  cupful  of  the  flour  into  it.  Add 
the  dissolved  yeast  to  the  flour,  and  beat  well.  Cover  the 
bowl,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  —  say  where  the  tem- 
perature is  about  80°  —  until  the  mixture  rises  to 
double  its  size.  About  an  hour  will  be  required  for  the 
rising. 

Half  an  hour  after  the  sponge  has  been  set,  put  the 
remainder  of  the  flour,  and  the  salt,  sugar,  butter,  and 
three  of  the  eggs  into  a  large  bowl.  Mix  these  ingre- 
dients well  with  the  hand,  and  when  a  smooth  paste  is 
formed,  add  the  remainder  of  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time ; 
beating  the  paste  vigorously  until  it  is  very  light  and 
smooth.  The  eggs  should  not  be  beaten  before  they  are 
added.  Now,  if  the  sponge  be  risen,  add  it  to  the  paste, 
and  beat  well ;  should  it  not  be  risen,  it  will  not  hurt  the 
beaten  mixture  to  stand  awhile. 

When  the  sponge  is  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
paste,  cover  the  bowl  and  set  in  a  warm  place.  It  will 
take  about  six  hours  for  the  sponge  to  rise  sufficiently. 
When  it  becomes  light,  beat  it  well  and  then  put  it  into 
the  ice-chest.  If  possible,  put  it  on  or  beside  the  ice. 
Let  it  remain  there  for  ten  or  twelve  hours,  and  it  will 
then  be  ready  for  use. 

The  sponge  may  be  set  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
and  be  added  to  the  paste  at  three.  The  paste  will  be 
ready  to  put  on  ice  at  nine  o'clock,  and  in  the  morning 
it  will  be  ready  to  use  in  any  form. 

Brioche  Loaf,  to  be  Eaten  Plain  and  Hot. 

For  a  small  loaf  take  a  heaping  cupful  of  the  chilled 
paste,  and  form  it  into  a  smooth  ball.  Put  this  on  a 


548          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

floured  board,  and  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  half  an 
inch.  Tear  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  cake.  Now  twist 
this  paste  inward  and  into  a  rope-like  shape.  This  will 
give  a  form  something  like  a  crown.  Place  the  paste  in 


Brioche  Loaf  on  a  Napkin. 

a  buttered  pan  or  on  a  tin  plate,  and  let  it  rise  for  half 
an  hour  in  a  warm  place.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes,  and  serve  hot  on  a  napkin. 

This  kind  of  loaf  is  nice  for  luncheon  or  tea.  When 
wanted  for  tea,  keep  the  paste  on  ice  until  the  afternoon  ; 
or  the  loaf  may  be  baked  in  the  morning  and  warmed  at 
serving-time. 

The  loaf  made  of  the  ingredients  mentioned  will  be 
quite  small,  and  if  a  larger  one  be  desired,  double  the 
quantity  of  ingredients  and  allow  ten  minutes  longer  for 
the  baking.  Loaves  may  be  shaped  like  balls,  and  be  cut 
across  with  a  sharp  knife  before  they  have  risen  or  been 
baked;  or  they  may  be  put  into  any  kind  of  pan,  and 
allowed  to  rise  to  twice  their  original  height  before  they 
are  baked.  The  paste  is  so  soft  that  the  work  must  be 
done  quickly  when  the  loaf  is  to  be  of  the  crown  shape, 
—  that  first  described.  It  grows  very  soft  as  it  becomes 
warm. 

These  warm  brioche  loaves  are  particularly  nice  to 
serve  with  berries  and  cream,  or  with  preserved  fruit 
and  cream. 

Baba. 

To  make  a  large  loaf  of  baba,  use  three  cupfuls  of  the 
paste,  half  a  cupful  of  dried  currants,  one  cupful  of 
raisins,  and  one  gill  of  wine. 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  549 

Soak  the  fruit  in  the  wine  over  night.  In  the  morning 
work  the  fruit  and  wine  into  the  paste.  Butter  a  deep 
mould,  and  put  the  paste  into  it.  Cover,  and  put  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise  to  twice  the  original  size.  It  will 
take  about  an  hour  and  a  half.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  forty  minutes.  On  taking  from  the  oven, 
turn  from  the  mould  on  a  deep  plate  or  dish,  the  top  of 
the  cake  being  down.  Let  it  cool  in  this  position. 

While  the  cake  is  cooling,  make  a  syrup  by  boiling 
together  for  twelve  minutes  one  cupful  of  sugar  and 
three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  water.  At  the  end  of  the 
twelve  minutes  add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  rum  to  the 
syrup,  and  pour  the  liquid  over  the  cake,  being  careful 
to  wet  the  sides  with  it.  Let  the  dish  get  perfectly  cold, 
and  serve  it  as  dessert. 

Savarin. 

For  this  cake  use  four  cupfuls  of  the  paste,  one  cupful 
of  chopped  almonds,  half  a  cupful  of  candied  orange  peel, 
cut  very  fine,  and  a  syrup  made  like  that  for  baba ;  sub- 
stituting, however,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  anisette  (a  cor- 
dial) for  the  rum  mentioned  in  the  preceding  receipt. 

Work  the  candied  orange  peel  into  the  paste.  Butter 
a  round  cake-pan  thickly  with  washed  butter,  and  sprinkle 
the  bottom  and  sides  with  the  chopped  almonds.  Put 
the  paste  into  this  pan,  and  after  letting  it  rise  to  double 
its  original  size,  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  On  taking  from  the  oven,  turn  out 
on  a  dish,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  it.  Serve  either  hot 
or  cold  for  dessert. 

Wine  Cakes. 

Put  three  cupfuls  of  the  paste  into  a  deep  mould,  and 
let  it  rise  to  double  its  original  size.  Bake  for  forty -five 
minutes. 

Boil  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar  with  one  cupful 


550          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  water  for  twelve  minutes  ;  then  add  a  gill  of  sherry. 
When  the  cake  is  done,  turn  it  out  on  a  deep  plate  or 
dish,  and  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  it.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 


Wine  Cakes. 

Small  cakes  are  made  by  letting  one  gill  of  the  paste 
rise  to  a  little  more  than  double  its  first  height  in  either 
dariole  moulds  or  individual  charlotte-russe  moulds.  Bake 
for  twenty  minutes ;  then  turn  out,  and  pour  hot  syrup 
over  them.  The  syrup  may  be  flavored  with  wine,  rum, 
orange  or  lemon  juice,  or  with  any  kind  of  cordial. 

Brioche  Fritters. 

Roll  some  brioche  paste  down  to  the  thickness  of  half 
an  inch,  and  with  a  jagging-iron  or  a  sharp  knife  cut  it 
into  strips  four  inches  long  and  two  wide.  Drop  these 
into  boiling  fat,  and  cook  for  six  minutes.  Drain  on 
brown  paper ;  then  arrange  on  a  warm  dish,  and  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar.  Serve  at  once  with  a  plentiful 
quantity  of  hot  syrup  flavored  with  fruit  juice  or  wine. 

Another  kind  of  fritter  is  made  by  rolling  the  paste 
until  it  is  only  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cutting 
it  into  large  rounds  with  a  plain  or  fancy  cutter ;  next 
putting  half  a  teaspoonful  of  apricot  or  some  other  kind 
of  jam  in  the  centre  of  each  round ;  then  folding  the 
edges  over  and  sticking  them  with  the  beaten  white  of 
an  egg,  and  finally  frying  in  fat  for  five  minutes.  Serve 
with  hot  syrup, 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  551 

With  the  quantity  of  materials  given  on  page  546  a 
good  deal  of  paste  can  be  made,  —  enough  for  three  loaves 
of  any  of  the  dishes  named ;  so  in  a  small  family  it  will 
be  wise  to  use  only  half  the  usual  quantities  at  first. 


*  CURRY-POWDER   AND   ITS    USES. 

It  is  remarkable  how  few  people  in  this  country  un- 
derstand how  to  prepare  a  sauce  or  a  dish  with  the  use  of 
curry-powder.  This  should  not  be  the  case,  as  a  bottle 
of  the  powder,  costing  only  twenty-five  cents,  will^enable 
one  to  make  agreeable  changes  in  the  composition  of 
dishes  for  twenty  or  more  meals.  When  used  in  a  soup, 
the  quantity  must  be  very  small,  just  enough  to  give  a 
little  tone,  —  say  half  a  teaspoonful  to  three  or  four 
quarts  of  soup  or  of  a  stew ;  but  when  used  in  a  sauce 
for  meat  or  fish,  there  should  be  enough  to  give  color 
and  pronounced  character.  When  the  taste  for  this  con- 
diment is  acquired,  it  proves  strong.  Curry  is  especially 
useful  in  flavoring  sauces  for  meats  and  fish  which  have 
been  warmed  over,  making  them  very  appetizing. 

The  simplest  mode  of  preparing  a  dish  of  curry  is 
this :  Free  one  quart  of  cold  meat  of  skin,  fat,  and  bones, 
and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  it  in  a  frying-pan  with 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  chopped  onion. 
Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Now  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  heaping  teaspoonful 
of  curry-powder  (Cross  &  BlackwelPs  u  Genuine  Indian 
Curry  "  is  the  best).  Stir  for  one  minute ;  then  draw 
the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  one  pint  of  cold  stock 
or  cold  water.  Boil  for  two  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time ;  then  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  for 
three  minutes  longer. 

Sprinkle  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt  on  the  cold 
meat,  and  put  the  meat  in  a  stew-pan.  Strain  the  curry- 
sauce  over  it,  and  cook  the  dish  for  five  minutes.  Serve 
with  boiled  rice.  One  cupful  of  the  uncooked  rice  will 


552          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


be  enough  for  the  quantity  of  curry  mentioned,  and  the 
dish  will  be  sufficient  for  serving  to  six  persons.  It 
should  not  be  accompanied  by  potatoes. 

Madras  Curry. 

This  is  more  delicate  than  the  ordinary  curry.  It 
may  be  made  with  any  kind  of  cold  meat  and  with  most 
kinds  of  fish.  The  ingredients  are :  half  a  cocoanut,  the 
milk  of  a  cocoanut,  one  gill  of  cow's  milk,  two  good- 
sized  onions,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  one  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  or  fish 
was  cooked,  one  scant  quart  of  cooked  meat  or  fish,  and 
about  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Bore  a  hole  in  the  cocoanut,  and  pour  out  the  milk. 
Now  crack  the  nut,  and  pare  the  brown  skin  from  one- 
half  of  it.  Grate  this  half,  and  add  it  to  the  milk.  Add 
the  cow's  milk  to  the  mixture ;  and  after  a  good  stirring, 
place  the  dish  in  the  refrigerator  for  two  or  three  hours. 

Unless  cold  meat  is  to  be  used,  put  the  meat  or  fish  on 
to  cook  in  as  little  water  as  possible.  Simmer  until  so 
tender  that  it  may  be  cut  with  a  spoon.  When  the  meat 
is  done,  take  it  from  the  liquor,  and  put  both  away  to 
cool.  When  cold,  free  the  meat  or  fish  of  skin,  bone, 
and  fat,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Free  the  liquor 
of  fat.  Chop  the  onions  rather  fine,  and  put  them  in  a 
stew-pan  with  the  butter.  Cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  add  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  and  draw  the  pan 
to  a  hotter  part  of  the  range.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it 
becomes  frothy ;  then  draw  the  stew-pan  back  to  a  cooler 
place,  and  gradually  add  the  pint  of  liquor,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Boil  for  two  minutes  ;  then  strain  the  milk 
from  the  cocoanut  into  the  mixture,  pressing  every  par- 
ticle of  moisture  from  the  grated  nut.  Stir  well,  and 
simmer  for  ten  minutes. 

Put  the  meat  or  fish  in  a  stew-pan  and  sprinkle  the 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  553 

salt  over  it ;  then  strain  the  hot  curry-sauce  over  it. 
Cover,  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour. 
Serve  in  a  warm  covered  dish. 

A  dish  of  boiled  rice  should  be  served  with  this  dish. 

If  meat  or  fish  left  from  a  previous  meal  be  used,  take 
a  pint  of  some  kind  of  light  stock  (such  as  the  water  in 
which  chicken  or  veal  was  boiled)  instead  of  the  liquor 
called  for. 

If  one  like  a  very  strong  flavor  of  curry,  double  the 
quantity  of  powder  may  be  used. 

The  fish  most  suited  for  this  curry  are  prawns,  shrimp, 
and  lobster.  When  they  are  used  they  should  not  be 
cooked  in  the  sauce  for  more  than  ten  minutes.  Oysters, 
scallops,  and  clams  may  be  used  in  a  curry ;  but  they 
must  be  well  drained,  and  should  cook  in  the  sauce  for 
only  six  or  eight  minutes. 

Any  kind  of  meat  may  be  used  in  a  curry  ;  but  the 
delicate  light  meats,  such  as  chicken,  turkey,  veal,  lamb, 
sweetbreads,  etc.,  are  best.  Any  of  the  following-named 
relishes  may  be  served  with  the  curry  :  Chutney,  boiled 
ham,  rashers  of  bacon,  Yarmouth  bloaters. 

Honolulu  Curry. 

For  the  sauce  for  this  curry  there  will  be  needed  a 
small  cocoanut,  a  quarter  of  an  onion,  one  clove  of  garlic, 
an  inch  piece  of  root  ginger,  two  large  table-spoonfuls 
of  curry-powder,  a  quart  of  milk,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  four  of  flour,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the 
taste. 

Grate  the  onion,  garlic,  ginger,  and  cocoanut  into  the 
double-boiler,  and  add  the  curry-powder  and  milk.  Cook 
slowly  for  an  hour.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  then 
add  the  flour,  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it  is  smooth 
and  light.  Strain  upon  it  the  curry  mixture,  —  gradually, 
so  that  it  shall  not  be  lumpy.  The  meat  or  fish  which 
is  to  be  served  with  this  sauce  should  now  be  added,  and 


554          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  dish  should  be  cooked  in  the  double-boiler  until  boil- 
ing hot,  —  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

The  quantity  of  sauce  made  by  following  the  directions 
will  be  sufficient  for  two  cans  of  shrimp,  the  meat  of 
two  lobsters  that  together  weigh  about  six  pounds,  or 
two  good-sized  chickens.  If  the  latter  be  used,  they 
should  be  fried,  broiled,  or  roasted,  and  cut  into  hand- 
some pieces ;  and  the  meat  should  be  hot  when  it  is 
added  to  the  sauce.  Serve  with  plain  boiled  rice. 


*  VARIOUS    WAYS    OF    USING   A    CALF'S 
HEAD. 

During  the  spring  and  summer  veal  is  plentiful  and 
cheap,  and  a  calf  s  head,  which  never  costs  a  large  sum, 
may  be  had  at  very  low  price.  In  old  times  it  was  a 
common  dish,  but  its  popularity  waned  until  few  house- 
keepers served  it  frequently.  Lately  it  has  seemed  to 
come  into  high  favor  again,  though  its  uses  are  not  what 
they  once  were.  Formerly  it  was  customary  to  use  the 
calf's  head  only  in  mock  turtle  soup,  or  to  serve  it  boiled, 
with  brain  sauce;  now  the  meat  is  made  into  various 
dainty  dishes  which  answer  for  entries  or  dishes  for 
luncheon  or  tea,  though  it  is  still  employed  also  when 
mock  turtle  soup  is  made. 

When  a  calf's  head  is  bought  at  a  market  it  usually  is 
scraped  and  otherwise  cleaned,  and  is  then  split  open ; 
but  in  the  country  the  housekeeper  often  has  to  attend 
to  these  matters  herself.  If  the  head  has  not  been 
cleaned  and  split,  put  it  into  a  deep  pan,  with  water 
enough  to  cover  it,  —  water  that  is  heated  almost  to  the 
boiling-point.  Set  the  pan  on  the  stove  in  a  place  where 
the  water  will  bubble  for  five  minutes  ;  then  take  up  the 
head,  and  with  the  back  of  the  blade  of  a  case-knife 
scrape  all  the  hairs  from  the  head,  being  careful  to  get 
the  ears  clean.  Now  place  the  head  in  cold  water  enough 


SPECIAL   ARTICLES.  555 

to  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  for  two  hours.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  remove  the  brains,  being  careful  not  to 
break  them  apart,  and  put  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water. 
Next  wash  the  head  carefully,  and  put  it  on  the  stove  in 
a  large  kettle  containing  cold  water  enough  to  cover  it. 
Every  part  must  be  immersed,  or  that  which  is  left  un- 
covered will  become  hard  and  black.  Set  the  kettle  where 
its  contents  will  quickly  get  heated  to  the  boiling-point. 
As  soon  as  the  water  begins  to  bubble,  skim  it  carefully ; 
then  set  the  kettle  back  where  the  water  will  simply 
bubble  during  the  next  three  hours.  Hard  boiling  will 
break  the  head.  When  the  prescribed  time  has  passed, 
take  up  the  head,  and  remove  all  the  bones  that  can  be 
drawn  out  easily  without  tearing  the  meat.  Dredge  the 
head  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  after  placing  it  on  a  warm 
dish,  pour  brain,  parsley,  tomato,  or  Bechamel  sauce  over 
it.  Serve  at  once. 

This  is  the  simplest  mode  of  serving  a  calf's  head. 
The  water  in  which  it  was  boiled  may  be  used  for  mock 
turtle  soup  or  a  plain  or  cream  soup.  No  matter  how 
the  head  is  to  be  served,  it  must  first  be  cleaned  and 
boiled  as  just  directed.  Half  of  the  head  may  be  served 
with  a  garnish  of  brain  force-meat  balls;  the  tongue 
being  cut  into  four  parts,  lengthwise,  and  served  with 
half  the  head.  Any  one  of  the  sauces  named  in  the 
preceding  paragraph  should  be  poured  around  it.  The 
remaining  half  of  the  head  may  be  used  for  one  of 
the  following-named  dishes. 

Calf's  Head,  Terrapin  Fashion. 

For  this  dish  use  one  pint  of  the  cold  meat  of  the 
calf's  head,  cut  into  small  pieces,  one  cupful  of  stock,  — 
the  water  in  which  the  head  was  boiled  will  do,  —  half 
a  cupful  of  cream,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-tenth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  cayenne,  one  teaspoonful  of  brandy,  two  table-spoon- 


556          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

fuls  of  wine,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  and  one  level  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Put  the  stock  on  to  boil.  Beat  the  butter  and  flour 
together  until  smooth  and  light,  and  stir  the  mixture 
into  the  boiling  stock.  Cook  until  smooth,  —  say  for 
about  a  minute,  —  stirring  all  the  while.  Add  the  meat 
and  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  five  minutes. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  cream  to 
them  ;  beating  the  mixture  thoroughly.  When  the  meat 
has  been  cooked  for  five  minutes,  add  the  yolks  and 
cream,  and  cook  for  one  minute  longer,  stirring  all  the 
while.  Take  from  the  fire  promptly  at  the  end  of  the 
minute,  and  after  adding  the  brandy  and  wine,  serve  at 
once. 

If  there  should  be  any  delay  in  the  work  after  the 
yolks  and  cream  are  added,  the  dish  would  be  spoiled, 
as  the  eggs  would  cook  too  much,  and  the  sauce  would 
have  a  curdled  appearance ;  but  there  would  be  no  real 
harm  in  letting  the  dish  stand  on  the  back  of  the  stove 
for  ten  or  twenty  minutes  before  the  addition  of  the 
eggs  and  cream. 

Cooked  poultry,  game,  and  veal  may  be  prepared  in 
the  same  manner. 


*  Calf's  Head,  with  Bisque  Sauce. 

Use  one  quart  of  the  cold  meat  from  the  calf's  head, 
cut  in  slices,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
of  flour,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  stock,  and  half  a  cupful 
of  strained  tomato. 

.  Put  the  butter  on  the  stove,  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
it  becomes  melted,  add  the  flour.  Stir  the  mixture  until 
it  gets  smooth  and  slightly  browned ;  then  draw  the  pan 
back  where  there  is  less  heat,  and  gradually  add  the 
stock.  Place  the  frying-pan  again  on  the  hot  part  of 
the  stove,  and  stir  the  contents  until  they  begin  to  boil. 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  557 

Let  them  simmer  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  tomato, 
meat,  and  seasoning,  and  cook  for  seven  minutes. 

Any  kind  of  cold  meat  may  be  served  in  this  manner. 

*  Curry  of  Calf's  Head. 

Use  one  quart  of  the  cold  meat,  cut  in  slices,  one 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  one  tabler 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  two  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  stock,  and  one  cupful 
of  milk. 

Put  the  butter  and  onion  in  a  frying-pan,  and  cook 
slowly  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  flour  and  curry- 
powder,  and  stir  over  a  hot  fire  for  one  minute.  Draw 
the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  stock.  Place  the 
pan  again  on  the  hot  part  of  the  stove,  and  stir  the 
mixture  until  it  boils;  then  add  the  milk  gradually, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Let  the  mixture  simmer  for  three 
minutes. 

Put  the  meat,  with  the  salt  and  pepper,  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  strain  over  it  the  sauce  that  is  in  the  frying-pan. 
Cook  for  six  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  boiled 
rice. 

Other  kinds  of  cold  meat  may  be  used  in  curries. 

Brain  Force-meat  Balls. 

Soak  the  brains  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water  for  an  hour  or 
more ;  then  remove  the  thin  covering,  which  is  filled 
with  small  blood-vessels.  Rinse  the  brains  thoroughly 
in  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  Tie  them  loosely  in  a  piece  of 
cheese-cloth,  and,  putting  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  boil- 
ing water  enough  to  cover  them,  let  them  boil  for  twenty 
minutes.  On  taking  them  from  the  water  let  them  cool 
in  the  cloth ;  and  when  they  become  cold,  mash  them 
smooth  with  a  spoon.  Add  to  them  one  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 


558          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of  lemon  juice,  one  well- 
beaten  egg,  half  a  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs,  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  these  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  let  them  stand 
for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  form  the  mix- 
ture into  small  balls,  and  roll  these  in  beaten  egg  and 
then  in  bread  crumbs.  Place  the  balls  in  a  frying-basket, 
and  cook  them  in  fat  for  one  minute  and  a  half. 

These  are  nice  to  serve  as  a  garnish  of  any  of  the 
various  preparations  of  a  calf's  head ;  or,  served  with 
tomato,  bisque,  or  Bechamel  sauce,  they  make  a  good 
entree. 

The  brains  may  be  placed  in  two  separate  pieces  of 
cheese-cloth,  and  boiled  and  cooled  as  just  directed,  then 
seasoned  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  beaten 
egg  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  and  fried  in  fat.  Served 
with  a  sauce,  they  make  an  excellent  entree. 

*  Jellied  Calf's  Head. 

After  cutting  the  face  from  the  head,  for  use  in  mock 
turtle  soup,  free  the  rest  of  the  head  of  bones  and  gristle, 
and  chop  it  rather  fine.  For  each  quart  allow  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  three  generous  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
and  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  head  was  boiled. 
Put  all  into  a  stew-pan,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  capers,  and  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire. 

The  next  steps  are  to  butter  a  three-pint  mould,  and 
to  cut  into  rings  those  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  which 
were  left  after  making  egg-balls,  and  use  a  part  for 
making  a  circle  on  the  bottom  of  the  mould.  Put  a 
layer  of  the  hot  mixture  —  perhaps  an  inch  thick  —  into 
the  mould,  and  then  a  layer  of  the  egg  whites ;  and  con- 
tinue placing  these  alternate  layers  until  all  the  materials 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  559 

have  been  used.  Let  the  dish  get  perfectly  cold ;  several 
hours  will  be  needed.  At  serving-time  dip  the  mould 
into  warm  water,  and  turn  its  contents  out  on  a  flat  dish. 
Garnish  with  heart  leaves  of  lettuce. 

Jellied  calf's  head  is  a  nice  dish  for  either  luncheon  or 
supper.  

The  foregoing  receipts  are  only  a  few  of  many  ways 
in  which  a  cheap  and  much  neglected  article  of  food  may 
be  palatably  cooked. 

THE   WARMING   OVER   OF   MEATS. 

Meats,  when  recooked,  require  more  careful,  delicate 
handling  than  in  their  first  preparation.  The  things 
essential  to  success  in  this  branch  of  cookery  are  that 
the  meat  shall  be  freed  of  all  fat,  shall  be  cooked  only 
long  enough  to  heat  thoroughly,  or  shall  be  cooked  slowly 
for  a  long  time.  This  is  particularly  true  of  beef.  The 
meat  should  be  well  seasoned  and  be  served  very  hot. 
Here  is  a  good  general  rule :  — 

First  cut  off  all  the  fat ;  then  cut  the  meat  into  the 
kind  of  pieces  you  desire  to  have.  This  should  be  done 
several  hours  before  the  time  to  cook  the  dish,  the  meat 
being  kept  meanwhile  in  a  cool  place.  Now  put  the 
bones  and  gristle  in  a  stew-pan,  with  cold  water  enough 
to  cover  them,  and  boil  gently  for  two  or  three  hours. 
If  you  choose,  you  may  add  a  small  piece  each  of  carrot, 
onion,  and  celery  during  the  last  hour.  Strain  the  liquor 
from  the  bones,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  skim. 
This  is  the  stock  for  making  the  sauce  which  is  used 
when  the  meat  is  warmed. 

The  fat  which  was  trimmed  from  the  meat  should  be 
cut  up,  put  in  a  frying-pan,  and  placed  on  the  back  part 
of  the  stove,  to  be  fried  slowly.  After  an  hour  or  two 
the  sediment  and  solid  parts  will  fall  to  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  A  clear  liquid  fat  can  then  be  poured  off. 


560          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Strain  into  a  dripping-jar,  and  put  away  in  a  cool  place. 
The  fat  from  beef,  veal,  pork,  and  chickens  may  be  used 
for  frying  purposes,  but  for  most  tastes  mutton,  turkey, 
goose,  and  ham  fat  leave  too  strong  a  flavor  to  be  mixed 
with  other  drippings.  The  fat  from  fried  or  roast  ham 
or  from  sausages  may  be  kept  in  a  separate  jar.  It  can 
be  used  for  warming  potatoes,  frying  hominy,  etc. 

Many  good  housekeepers  use  mutton  fat  for  shorten  ing 
and  frying  purposes.  It  is  quite  as  healthful  as  any  of 
the  fats,  and  if  there  be  no  objection  to  the  taste,  there 
is  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  used  as  freely  as  other 
fats. 

There  are  few  households  where  soft  soap  is  not  re- 
quired in  the  kitchen.  The  strong  fats  can  be  utilized 
in  making  this  soap,  —  which  is  a  simple  matter  when 
the  fat  is  fried  and  strained  as  directed.  Never  wait 
until  the  fat  has  become  tainted  before  trying  it  out. 

The  subject  of  the  care  and  use  of  fat  is  so  closely 
connected  with  the  warming-over  of  meat  that  it  could 
not  well  be  passed  over ;  hence  this  digression. 

Having  the  meat  cut  in  suitable  pieces  and  the  stock 
made,  the  housekeeper  will,  with  a  few  rules  and  sugges- 
tions, be  enabled  to  prepare  many  appetizing  and  health- 
ful dishes. 

The  meat  must  always  be  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per ;  for  if  the  sauce  should  have  enough  seasoning  for 
itself  and  the  meat  too,  it  would  be  spoiled.  Season 
every  pint  of  meat  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

If  the  meat  be  red,  like  beef,  mutton,  venison,  duck,  or 
grouse,  the  sauce  should  be  dark ;  if  it  be  light,  like  veal, 
chicken,  or  turkey,  the  sauce  also  should  be  light.  For  a 
pint  of  meat,  half  a  pint  of  sauce  will  be  needed.  After 
the  sauce  is  made,  its  character  and  name  may  be  varied 
by  the  addition  of  any  of  a  variety  of  materials,  such  as 
olives,  mushrooms,  capers,  etc. 


SPECIAL   ARTICLES.  561 


*  Brown  Sauce. 

Put  one.  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  butter  in  the 
frying-pan  and  on  the  fire.  When  the  butter  gets  hot 
and  begins  to  turn  brown,  add  a  generous  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  flour  turns  dark  brown.  Now 
draw  the  pan  to  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  and  stir  until 
the  mixture  cools  slightly  ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  stock, 
pouring  it  in  gradually  and  stirring  all  the  while.  Place 
the  pan  on  the  hot  part  of  the  stove,  and  stir  the  sauce 
until  it  begins  to  boil.  Add  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  about  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Simmer 
for  five  minutes. 

*  Cold  Meat  Warmed  in  Brown   Sauce. 

Add  one  pint  of  meat  to  the  sauce  just  described,  and 
simmer  for  five  minutes.  Serve  immediately  on  a  warm 
dish. 

*  White  Sauce. 

This  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  brown  sauce,  care 
being  taken  not  to  brown  the  butter  and  flour.  When  it 
has  been  boiled  for  three  minutes,  add  one  gill  of  cream 
or  milk. 

*  Cold  Meat  Warmed  with  Mushrooms. 

Cut  half  a  can  of  mushrooms  in  small  pieces,  and  add 
them  to  a  pint  of  meat.  Heat  all  in  half  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce. 

*  Cold  Meat  Warmed  with  Macaroni. 

Boil  one-eighth  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  for  half  an 
hour  in  one  quart  of  water  seasoned  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt ;  then  turn  it  into  a  colander  to  drain.  Next  put 
it  into  a  stew-pan  with  one  pint  of  meat,  half  a  pint  of 
brown  or  white  sauce,  and  half  a  pint  of  strained  toma- 


562          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

toes.     Add  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and 
simmer  for  eight  minutes.     Serve  very  hot. 

Cold  Duck  Warmed  with  Olive  Sauce. 

Use  a  pint  of  meat,  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  one 
dozen  stoned  olives,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
and  a  grain  of  cayenne.  Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a 
stew-pan,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  To  some  tastes  it 
will  be  considered  as  an  improvement  to  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  claret. 

*  Cold  Meat  au  Gratin. 

Have  a  pint  of  cold  meat  cut  into  cubes,  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  a  generous  half-pint  of  white 
or  brown  sauce  with  it.  Turn  into  an  escalop-dish  hold- 
ing about  a  pint  and  a  half,  and  cover  with  half  a  pint 
of  grated  bread  crumbs.  Dot  this  covering  with  a  scant 
table-spoonful  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes,  and  serve  at  once. 

*  Hashed  Meat  on  Toast. 

Use  a  pint  of  meat,  half  a  pint  of  stock,  a  generous  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  a  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  six  small  slices  of  toast. 

Put  the  meat  in  the  chopping-tray,  and  sprinkle  over 
it  the  salt,  pepper,  and  flour ;  then  chop  it  rather  coarse. 
Now  put  it  in  a  small  stew-pan  with  the  stock.  Cover, 
and  simmer  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  the  butter. 
Toast  the  bread  and  arrange  it  on  a  warm  dish.  Spread 
the  hash  upon  it,  and  serve  at  once. 

If  the  hash  be  made  of  veal  or  duck,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  just  as  it  is  taken  from  the  fire. 


These  are  only  a  few  of  the  many  healthful   dishes 
that  can  be  prepared  by  any  housekeeper.     The  labor  is 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  563 

slight,  but  the  care  should  be  the  same  as  that  given  to 
the  most  delicate  dessert.  It  will  pay  a  hundred  fold, 
as  regards  both  economy  and  the  attractiveness  of  the 
table. 

*A   BOILED   DINNER. 

Despite  the  array  of  savory  viands  and  delectable 
dainties  which  may  be  produced  by  following  modern 
modes  of  cooking,  there  is,  for  many  people,  nothing 
more  attractive  and  satisfying  than  an  old-fashioned  salt- 
fish  dinner  or  a  boiled  dinner  ;  yet  commonly  people  do 
not  take  the  proper  amount  of  pains  in  preparing  either 
meal.  The  articles  required  for  a  boiled  dinner  are  six 
or  eight  pounds  of  corned  beef,  a  small  head  of  cabbage, 
enough  white  or  yellow  turnips  to  make  three  quarts 
when  sliced,  three  beets  of  medium  size,  a  dozen  good- 
sized  potatoes,  four  carrots,  and,  if  convenient,  the  same 
number  of  parsnips. 

There  are  two  methods  of  preparing  this  dinner  :  one 
is  to  cook  the  meat  and  each  vegetable  separately,  and 
the  other  is  to  cook  all,  except  the  beets,  in  one  large 
kettle.  The  latter  mode  gives  a  savory  meal ;  yet  many 
persons  have  no  appetite  for  articles  which  have  been 
boiled  in  a  single  utensil  and  each  of  which  has  acquired 
a  combination  of  flavors  from  the  water  as  the  cooking 
progressed.  By  the  second  method  of  preparation  each 
article  retains  its  distinctive  flavor.  All  the  vegetables 
should  be  seasoned  with  salt  and  butter  at  serving-time. 

Cooking  the  Meat. 

The  first  step  is  to  prepare  the  corned  beef.  The 
rump  or  a  brisket  piece  is  the  most  suitable  to  use. 
Wash  the  meat  thoroughly,  and  put  it  into  the  kettle 
with  hot  water  enough  to  cover  it ;  or  if  the  meat  be 
very  salt,  use  cold  water.  Slowly  heat  the  water  to  the 
boiling-point,  and  then  skim  carefully.  Set  the  kettle 


564          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

back  where  the  beef  will  only  simmer  for  five  hours  and 
a  half.  The  water  must  simply  bubble ;  rapid  cooking 
would  make  the  meat  hard,  dry,  and  stringy.  At  serving- 
time  put  the  meat  on  a  large  platter,  and  garnish  with  a 
few  slices  of  carrot,  beet,  and  turnip. 

In  case  the  vegetables  be  cooked  with  the  meat  a  much 
larger  quantity  of  water  must  be  used  than  when  the 
meat  is  cooked  alone,  and  the  kettle  must  be  drawn  for- 
ward to  a  hotter  part  of  the  stove  when  the  vegetables 
are  added. 


Preparation  of  the  Vegetables. 

Cut  the  stalk  and  green  or  bruised  leaves  from  the 
cabbage ;  then  cut  the  cabbage  into  four  parts,  and  put 
it  into  a  pan  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt  and  cold 
water  enough  to  cover  it.  Let  it  stand  for  an  hour  or 
more.  Pare  and  slice  the  turnips;  pare  the  potatoes; 
scrape  the  carrots  and  parsnips,  and  cut  them  into  slices 
lengthwise.  Put  all  these  vegetables  into  cold  water. 
Wash  the  beets  lightly,  being  particular  not  to  break  the 
little  roots.  Put  them  into  a  large  saucepan  with  boiling 
water  in  plenty,  and  boil  for  two  hours  if  the  beets  be 
small,  or  for  three  hours  if  they  be  large.  As  beets 
grow  older  they  require  more  time  for  cooking.  When 
the  beets  are  done,  plunge  them  into  cold  water;  for 
this  will  enable  you  to  rub  off  the  skin  readily.  Slice 
thin,  and  season  with  butter  and  salt,  unless  vinegar  be 
preferred. 

Boil  the  cabbage  for  two  hours,  and  during  the  last 
half-hour  add  a  table-spoonful  of  salt.  Sometimes  half  a 
pound  of  lean  salt  pork  is  cooked  for  five  hours  in  the 
water,  put  into  the  kettle  in  which  the  cabbage  is  to  be 
boiled,  —  three  hours  before  the  vegetable  is  put  in,  and 
the  remaining  two  while  the  cabbage  is  cooking.  When 
this  is  done  it  is  customary  to  place  the  pork  on  the  dish 
with  the  beef*  and  serve  a  thin  slice  to  anybody  desiring 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  565 


it.  The  cabbage  should  be  drained  in  a  colander  after 
the  cooking,  and  cut  with  a  knife  as  it  is  drained,  or  it 
may  be  put  into  a  chopping-tray  and  chopped  fine,  salt 
and  butter  being  added,  — about  a  table-spoonful  of  butter 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

The  carrots  and  parsnips  should  be  put  into  boiling 
water,  and  cooked  for  an  hour ;  the  potatoes  and  turnips 
should  be  put  into  boiling  water,  and  cooked  for  half 
an  hour. 

If  the  vegetables  are  to  be  cooked  with  the  meat,  after 
the  latter  has  been  simmering  for  three  hours,  the  kettle 
must  be  placed  on  a  hotter  part  of  the  range,  and  the 
cabbage  be  added;  an  hour  later  add  the  carrots  and 
parsnips ;  and  half  an  hour  afterward  add  the  turnips 
and  potatoes.  At  serving-time  take  up  the  potatoes,  and 
set  them  in  a  dish  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  cover- 
ing them  with  a  towel.  Take  up  the  cabbage,  and  let  it 
drain;  then  remove  the  rest  of  the  vegetables  and  the 
meat.  The  meat,  being  salt,  gives  the  vegetables  suffi- 
cient seasoning,  so  they  need  only  be  placed  in  the 
proper  dishes.  Everything  should  be  served  very  hot, 
and  there  should  be  mixed  mustard  and  vinegar  on  the 
table. 

*A    SALT-FISH    DINNER. 

Outside  New  England  a  salt-fish  dinner  is  hardly 
known,  and  even  in  that  section  it  is  rarely  served  in 
such  perfection  in  the  interior  as  it  is  in  the  towns  bor- 
dering on  the  coast.  To  the  uninitiated  it  may  seem  to 
be  a  very  insignificant  meal ;  but  to  those  who  know 
what  it  really  is,  few  dinners  are  more  attractive.  The 
preparation  of  a  salt-fish  dinner  calls  for  care  and  skill. 
The  materials  should  be  of  the  very  best.  Codfish  is 
the  only  suitable  fish  to  use,  and  dunfish  is  better  than 
white ;  the  process  of  curing  the  former  being  preferable 
to  that  of  curing  white  fish,  and  the  result  being  a  darker 
and  richer  fish.  But  whichever  fish  is  used,  the  treat- 


566          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

ment  is  the  same.     The  fish  never  should  be  cut  before 
cooking. 

Preparation  of  the  Fish. 

A  genuine  salt-fish  dinner  is  composed  of  a  whole  salt 
cod,  beets,  carrots,  onions,  potatoes,  salt  pork,  butter, 
hard-boiled  eggs,  flour,  salt,  and  pepper.  The  night 
before  the  dinner  is  to  be  served,  wash  the  fish  care- 
fully. It  is  best  to  use  for  this  purpose  a  brush  such  as 
is  used  for  scrubbing  hams.  Cut  off  the  fins  and  tail. 
Put  the  fish  into  a  large  pan,  skin  side  up ;  and  soak  it 
over  night  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  it. 

The  next  day  place  the  fish,  skin  side  up,  in  a  fish- 
kettle  or  in  a  large  pan.  Place  on  the  fire  where  the 
water  will  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point  without  actu- 
ally boiling ;  then  set  back  where  it  will  keep  hot  for 
five  or  six  hours.  If  care  be  taken  not  to  let  the  fish 
boil,  it  will  break  into  soft,  rich,  gelatinous  flakes  when 
served ;  but  if  it  be  boiled,  it  will  be  dry,  thready,  and 
hard. 

Cooking  the  Beets. 

Beets  may  be  boiled  without  washing.  When  they 
are  washed  the  little  roots  are  apt  to  be  broken,  and 
the  juices  escape.  This  impoverishes  the  vegetables  and 
spoils  the  color.  The  time  of  cooking  depends  upon 
the  age.  When  they  are  small  and  young  they  may  be 
cooked  in  less  than  an  hour,  but  as  the  season  advances 
the  time  must  be  increased.  In  September,  October, 
and  November  they  should  be  cooked  for  two  hours ;  in 
December  and  January  they  will  require  about  three 
hours'  cooking;  and  in  the  spring  four  hours'  will  be 
none  too  much.  They  need  steady,  gentle  boiling.  When 
they  are  done,  pour  off  the  hot  water,  and  cover  them 
with  cold  water.  Rub  off  the  skin,  and  slice  them. 
They  may  be  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  or 
served  without  any  seasoning. 


SPECIAL  ARTICLES.  567 

What  to  Do  with  the  Other  Vegetables. 

The  carrots  should  be  scraped,  sliced  lengthwise,  and 
then  cut  into  pieces  about  three  inches  long.  Let  them 
stand  for  an  hour  or  more  in  cold  water ;  then  boil  for 
an  hour  in  plenty  of  water.  Pour  off  the  water,  and 
add  to  each  quart  of  carrots  one  level  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  one  gill  of  stock  or  boiling  water.  Let  the 
carrots  boil  till  they  absorb  all  the  moisture. 

Peel  the  onions,  and  boil  them  in  plenty  of  water  for 
one  hour ;  adding  to  eight  onions,  in  the  last  half -hour, 
one  table-spoonful  of  salt.  Pour  off  the  water  at  the 
end  of  the  hour.  Add  enough  milk  to  cover  the  onions ; 
then  simmer  for  half  an  hour  longer.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  put  them  in  a  dish,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  a  gill  of 
the  milk  in  which  they  were  boiled.  Unless  milk  be 
plentiful,  it  need  not  be  used. 

The  potatoes  should  be  pared,  and  then  soaked  in  cold 
water  for  an  hour.  Put  them  into  a  kettle,  cover  them 
with  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  They 
should  not  be  boiled  rapidly.  When  they  have  been 
cooking  for  fifteen  minutes,  add  salt  in  the  proportion  of 
a  table-spoonful  for  every  dozen  potatoes. 

When  these  vegetables  are  done,  drain  off  every  drop 
of  water.  If  the  potatoes  must  wait  a  little  time  before 
serving,  lay  a  coarse  towel  over  them,  and  place  the 
stew-pan  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  where  its  con- 
tents will  keep  hot. 

Making  Pork  Scraps. 

Pork  scraps  are  made  by  cutting  salt  pork  into  cubes 
and  frying  them  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  draw  the  pan  forward  where  the  heat  is 
greater.  Stir  the  pork  until  it  becomes  brown  and  crisp ; 


568          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

then  take  from  the  fire  at  once.     At  serving-time  make 
very  hot.  » 

Egg  Sauce. 

Egg  sauce  is  made  by  beating  together  half  a  cupful 
of  butter  and  a  table- spoonful  of  flour  ;  adding  half  a 
pint  of  boiling  water ;  setting  the  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
and  stirring  until  the  sauce  begins  to  boil ;  immediately 
drawing  the  saucepan  back,  and  adding  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  half  a  salt-spoonful  of  white  pepper ;  chopping 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  rather  fine,  —  doing  it  with  a  plated 
knife  or  spoon,  —  and  adding  them  to  the  mixture  already 
prepared. 

Serving  the  Dinner. 

The  fish,  vegetables,  and  sauces  being  cooked,  the  dinner 
should  be  served  in  dishes  which  you  are  particular  to 
have  warm.  There  will  be  needed  one  large  platter,  four 
vegetable-dishes,  and  two  sauce-boats.  Place  the  whole 
fish,  skin  side  up,  on  the  platter,  and  garnish  it  with 
carrot,  beet,  and  parsley.  Dish  the  vegetables,  and  send 
everything  to  the  table  hot.  In  serving  the  fish  slip  the 
knife  under  the  skin,  and  fold  the  skin  back.  Cut  out  a 
handsome  piece  of  fish,  and  serve  with  either  egg  sauce 
or  pork  scraps.  The  fish  may  be  skinned  before  it  is 
sent  to  the  table,  but  it  will  not  keep  so  hot. 

Any  fish  left  from  the  meal  may  be  used  for  fish-balls 
or  hash.  If  any  beets  be  left,  take  them  for  a  salad  or 
pickle.  Sometimes  they  are  chopped  fine  and  added  to 
fish-balls  or  hash.  Egg  sauce  and  pork  scraps  often  are 
disposed  of  in  the  same  way. 


A  GROUP  OF   SIMPLE  DISHES.  569 


A  GROUP  OF   SIMPLE   DISHES. 

IN  this  chapter  are  given  a  few  simple  dishes  for  break- 
fast and  tea.  But  they  form  only  a  small  proportion  of 
the  entire  number  of  this  kind  contained  in  the  book. 
In  the  chapters  on  "  Dishes  of  Eggs "  and  "  Cheese 
Dishes "  there  are  many  good  things  for  the  breakfast 
and  supper  table,  not  to  speak  of  various  receipts  else- 
where. 

*  Peach  Short-cake. 

Pare  and  cut,  in  very  thin  slices,  enough  peaches  to 
measure  three  pints  when  sliced.  Put  the  fruit  in  a 
large  bowl,  and  sprinkle  it  with  a  generous  cupful  of 
granulated  sugar.  Let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  half 
an  hour  or  more. 

Mix  one  quart  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two 
of  cream-of-tartar,  one  of  salt,  and  one  of  sugar,  and  rub 
the  mixture  through  a  sieve.  Now  rub  into  the  dry 
mixture  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Add  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  milk ;  mix  quickly  until  smooth  dough  is 
formed.  This  should  be  divided  into  six  parts,  and  each 
part  be  rolled  down  to  the  size  of  a  tin  pie-plate  of 
medium  size.  Butter  three  plates,  and  lay  a  piece  of 
dough  on  each.  Spread  lightly  with  soft  butter;  then 
lay  a  second  piece  of  dough  on  each  plate,  and  place  in  a 
hot  oven.  Bake  for  ten  minutes. 

When  the  cakes  are  done,  tear  them  apart,  and  spread 
with  the  peaches.  Put  on  the  top  pieces,  and  heap 
whipped  cream  on  them.  Serve  the  short-cake  at  once  j 
it  will  not  be  good  cold. 


570          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Strawberry  Short-cake. 

Mix  well  together  in  a  sieve,  and  then  rub  through  it, 
one  pint  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  baking- 
powder,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt.  Rub  into  this  mixture  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  and  wet  it  with  almost  a  teacupful  of  milk. 
After  sprinkling  a  board  lightly  with  flour,  lay  the  dough 
upon  it,  and  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  about  half  an 
inch.  Place  a  jelly-cake  plate  upon  the  dough,  and  cut 
around  its  edge  with  a  sharp  knife.  Enough  dough  can 
be  made  with  the  materials  mentioned  above  for  one  to 
obtain  four  small  cakes.  Butter  two  jelly-cake  plates, 
and  place  the  ca.kes  in  them  —  two  in  each  plate.  Bake 
in  a  quick  oven  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes.  On  remov- 
ing them  from  the  oven,  tear  them  apart  (you  will  not 
require  a  knife),  and  spread  between  the  matched  cakes 
a  quart  of  strawberries,  slightly  crushed,  and  sprinkled 
with  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  It  is  an  improvement 
to  add  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  to  the  fruit.  Serve 
immediately. 

*  Adirondack  Strawberry  Short-cake. 

This  rather  novel  delicacy  calls  for  the  use  of  three 
pints  of  strawberries,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  quart  of 
sour  milk,  one  quart  of  flour,  two  eggs,  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  melted  butter,  two  teaspooufuls  of  soda,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt. 

If  the  cake  be  desired  for  supper,  in  the  morning  pour 
the  sour  milk  upon  the  flour,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Let 
the  mixture  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  evening ;  then 
dissolve  the  soda  in  one  table-spoonful  of  cold  water, 
and  add  it  to  the  batter,  together  with  the  salt  and  the 
eggs,  well  beaten.  Fry  this  batter  on  a  griddle,  like 
common  griddle-cakes,  but  have  each  cake  the  size  of  a  tea 
plate.  Butter  the  cakes  as  they  come  from  the  griddle, 


A  GROUP  OF   SIMPLE   DISHES.  571 

and  spread  each  with  a  thin  layer  of  crushed  straw- 
berries. Sprinkle  lightly  with  sugar.  There  should  be 
three  griddle-cakes  and  three  layers  of  berries  for  each 
plate,  and  the  short-cake  should  be  served  hot.  By  many 
people  a  dish  of  whipped  cream  will  be  found  to  be  an 
agreeable  accompaniment. 

The  batter  for  this  cake  makes  very  nice  plain  griddle- 
cakes,  and  if  it  be  used  for  such  the  eggs  may  be 
omitted. 

Cream  Waffles. 

Use  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  half 
a  pint  of  milk,  one  pint  of  flour,  half  a  teasjpoonful  of 
salt,  and  four  eggs. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  the  eggs  and  the  salt,  and  beat  for  two  minutes.  Now 
add  the  flour,  milk,  and  cream,  alternating  with  a  gill  of 
the  liquid  and  a  gill  of  the  flour.  When  all  has  beeii 
beaten  together  until  smooth,  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 

These  waffles  are  delicious,  but  of  course  expensive. 
It  is  very  important  that  the  materials  be  combined  in 
just  the  order  given. 

*  Raised  Wheat  Waffles. 

Warm  a  pint  of  milk,  and  add  to  it  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  melted  butter,  two  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  a  cupful  of  yeast,  or  half  a  cake  of  compressed 
yeast.  After  sifting  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  pour  this 
mixture  upon  it,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Add  two  eggs, 
well  beaten ;  and  after  covering  the  dish  closely,  set  in 
a  warm  place,  so  that  its  contents  shall  rise.  The  mix- 
ture should  be  light  in  four  hours. 

Make  the  waffle-irons  very  hot,  and  after  rubbing  them 
slightly  with  fat  salt  pork,  pour  into  them  a  thin  layer 
of  the  batter.  When  the  waffles  get  brown  on  both  sides, 


572          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

which  will  be  in  about  a  minute  and  a  half,  serve  them 
at  once.     Delay  makes  them  deteriorate. 

*  Hominy  Waffles. 

These  are  made  of  a  cupful  of  hot  or  cold  boiled 
hominy,  a  cupful  of  milk,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  flour, 
two  eggs,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  one 
table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Break  up  the  hominy  with  a  fork,  and  gradually  beat 
the  milk  into  it.  Mix  the  baking-powder  and  flour,  and 
sift  over  the  hominy.  Add  the  salt,  and  beat  well ;  then 
add  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  cook  the  mixture  as  other 
waffles  are  cooked.  The  waffle-iron  should  be  very  hot. 

The  first  lot  of  waffles  or  griddle-cakes  never  will  be 
so  good  as  those  that  follow,  because  after  the  iron  has 
been  used  it  will  become  smooth,  and  the  heat  will  be 
more  even. 

*  Indian  Waffles. 

These  are  delicious  if  served  as  soon  as  taken  from 
the  fire.  They  are  made  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  a  cupful  of 
Indian  white  meal,  two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk,  half  a 
cupful  of  sour  cream,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one 
table-spoonful  of  cold  water,  and  two  eggs. 

Mix  the  sugar,  salt,  meal,  and  flour.  Beat  the  eggs 
until  they  are  light.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  sour  milk  and 
cream.  Pour  the  liquid  upon  the  dry  mixture;  then 
add  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir  well.  Have  the  waffle-irons 
very  hot,  and  after  rubbing  them  lightly  with  a  piece  of 
fat  salt  pork,  pour  a  thin  layer  of  the  batter  into  one 
half  of  the  iron.  Drop  the  other  half  gently  upon  the 
first  one,  and  then  turn  the  iron  over.  Cook  until  the 
waffle  is  brown  on  both  sides,  —  say  for  about  two 
minutes. 


A  GROUP  OF  SIMPLE  DISHES.  573 


*  Buckwheat  Cakes. 

The  buckwheat  cake  is  often  exceedingly  disappoint 
ing.  Sometimes  it  is  so  good  that  one  may  fancy  it 
would  be  impossible  to  tire  of  the  dish;  yet  the  next 
time  it  may  be  so  poor  that  almost  anything  would  seem 
preferable. 

In  making  the  cakes  it  must  be  remembered  that  it  is 
difficult  to  have  them  light  and  dry  when  they  are  made 
wholly  of  buckwheat  flour,  and  that  the  batter,  if  raised 
with  fresh  yeast,  will  not  be  so  good  as  that  which  is 
raised  with  some  of  the  unused  batter  of  the  previous 
day.  Here  is  a  rule  which  should  give  perfect  cakes  : 

Into  a  deep  pail  or  pan  put  a  pint  of  buckwheat,  half 
a  cupful  of  Indian  meal  (white  is  best),  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  half  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast  or  half  a  cake  of 
compressed  yeast,  —  the  latter  to  be  first  dissolved  in 
half  a  cupful  of  water.  Add  to  the  ingredients  in  the 
pail  a  little  more  than  a  pint  of  warm  water  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  molasses.  Beat  the  mixture  thoroughly, 
and  place  where  it  will  rise.  The  batter  should  rise 
and  fall  again  before  morning.  In  the  morning  sift  into 
the  batter  one  teaspoonful  of  dry  soda.  Stir  well,  and 
fry. 

If  you  have  the  cakes,  say  three  times  a  week,  you 
will  not  require  fresh  yeast  after  the  first  batch  if  you 
reserve  a  little  more  than  a  pint  of  the  batter  in  a  cool 
place,  and  use  that  instead.  The  griddle,  for  any  kind 
of  batter  cakes,  should  be  kept  as  hot  as  possible  without 
danger  of  burning  the  cakes. 


*  These  are  delicate  and  delicious.  In  making  them 
use  two  cupfuls  of  buckwheat,  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of 
warm  water,  one  cupful  of  stale  bread,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast. 


574          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  water ;  then 
put  this  water  with  the  remaining  cupfuls,  and  pour  all 
upon  the  buckwheat.  Add  the  salt,  and  beat  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  ;  then  cover  the  mixture,  and  set  it  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise. 

Put  the  bread  into  a  bowl  with  the  milk,  and  let  it 
soak  over  night  in  a  cool  place.  In  the  morning  mash  it 
till  fine  and  light,  and  add  it  to  the  risen  buckwheat 
batter.  Fry  as  any  griddle-cakes  are  fried. 

*  Sweet-Milk  Griddle-cakes. 

For  six  people  use  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  pint  of 
milk,  two  eggs,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  teaspoon- 
f uls  of  baking-powder,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve. 
Add  the  milk  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Now  add  the 
melted  butter,  and  fry  the  cakes  at  once. 

*  Indian  Griddle-cakes. 

To  make  enough  for  six  people  one  should  take  half  a 
pint  of  fine  corn  meal,  half  a  pint  of  flour,  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water,  three  gills  of  cold  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  eggs. 

Put  the  meal,  salt,  and  sugar  into  a  bowl,  and  pour  the 
boiling  water  upon  them.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  then 
add  the  cold  milk.  Let  the  mixture  stand  until  it  be- 
comes perfectly  cold ;  then  mix  the  flour  and  baking- 
powder,  and  sift  into  the  bowl.  Blend  thoroughly,  and 
add  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  The  cakes  should  be  small, 
well  browned,  and  thoroughly  cooked. 


Another  kind  of  Indian  griddle-cake  is  made  by  scald- 
ing the  half-pint  of  meal  with  the  boiling  water  and 
adding,  when  the  mixture  gets  cold,  a  pint  of  sour  milk, 


A  GROUP  OF  SIMPLE  DISHES.  575 

a  cupful  and  a  half  of  flour,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  also  adding,  the  next 
morning,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  which  has  been  dissolved 
in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

If  one  have  any  sour  cream,  it  will  be  well  to  use  half 
a  pint  of  milk  and  half  a  pint  of  cream  instead  of  a  full 
pint  of  milk. 

*  Bread  Griddle-cakes. 

Put  a  pint  of  stale  bread  and  a  pint  of  milk  into  a 
deep  bowl,  and  after  covering,  let  them  stand  over  night 
in  a  warm  place.  In  the  morning  rub  through  a  colander, 
and  add  to  the  mixture  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  (previously 
dissolved  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water),  one  cup- 
ful of  flour,  and  two  eggs,  beaten  well.  If  you  choose 
you  may  also  add  a  light  grating  of  nutmeg ;  and  should 
you  have  a  few  spoonfuls  of  sour  cream,  the  cakes  will 
be  improved  by  using  it  at  this  point.  It  takes  more 
time  to  fry  these  cakes  than  the  plain  flour  griddle- 
cakes. 

*  Graham  Griddle-cakes. 

Mix  together  a  cupful  of  flour,  a  cupful  of  graham,  a 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Beat  two  eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  separately.  Dis- 
solve a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  one  pint  of  sour  milk.  Add  this 
to  the  dry  mixture,  and  when  both  are  well  mixed,  add 
the  beaten  eggs  and  a  heaping  table-spoonful  of  melted 
butter.  Fry  the  same  as  any  other  griddle-cakes. 

*  Rice  Griddle-cakes. 

These  are  extra  nice.  Put  a  pint  of  boiled  rice  to  a 
pint  of  milk,  to  stand  over  night,  and  in  the  morning 
add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a 


576          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  melted 
butter.  Beat  the  mixture  well,  and  add  three  well- 
beaten  eggs  and  a  pint  of  milk  in  which  a  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder  has  been  stirred.  Fry  on  a  hot 
griddle. 

If  you  have  half  a  pint  of  cream,  substitute  it  for  the 
table-spoonful  of  butter. 


*  After  dissolving  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  stir  it  into  a  pint  of  sour  milk. 
Add  a  generous  pint  of  flour ;  and  when  the  mixture  is 
smooth,  add  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice,  two  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Fry  the  cakes  till 
they  turn  a  rich  brown. 

*  Green  Corn  Griddle-cakes. 

If  one  think  the  use  of  eggs  a  piece  of  extravagance, 
this  may  seem  to  be  a  very  expensive  dish.  For  six 
persons  use  half  a  dozen  eggs,  a  pint  of  grated  uncooked 
corn,  —  about  ten  ears,  —  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one  pint  of 
flour,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt.  Beat  the  eggs  until  they  are  light,  and  mix 
with  the  other  materials.  Fry  the  batter  on  a  griddle 
in  small  cakes. 

*  Oatmeal. 

All  that  is  needed  is  half  a  pint  of  meal,  three  pints 
of  boiling  water,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Into  the 
water  stir  the  meal,  being  particular  to  stir  well  from 
the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan.  Keep  the  dish  for  half  an 
hour  where  it  will  boil  moderately,  and  during  this  period 
stir  it  three  times  ;  then  add  the  salt,  stirring  well,  and 
after  covering  the  dish  closely,  put  it  back  where  it  will 
simply  bubble  for  .an  hour  and  a  half.  It  should  not  be 
stirred  at  all.  In  the  morning  a  double-boiler  will  be 


A   GROUP   OF   SIMPLE   DISHES.  577 

needed.  This  utensil  consists  of  a  tin  pail  fitting  into 
another  considerably  larger,  the  space  between  the  two 
being  filled  with  water,  so  that  the  contents  of  the  inner 
pail  can  never  acquire  a  burnt  flavor.  Into  the  double- 
boiler  pour  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  into  this 
water  turn  the  cooked  oatmeal.  Set  the  dish  where  it 
will  heat  while  the  remainder  of  the  breakfast  is  being 
prepared. 

If  steamed  oatmeal  be  liked  it  can  be  cooked  in  the 
morning.  A  cupful  should  be  stirred  into  a  quart  of 
boiling  water,  together  with  a  good-sized  teaspoon ful  of 
salt,  and  boiled  gently  for  half  an  hour,  being  stirred 
twice  during  the  first  ten  minutes. 

*  Baked  Oatmeal. 

Opinions  vary  as  to  the  manner  in  which  oatmeal 
should  be  cooked.  In  Scotland  and  Ireland,  where  oat- 
meal is  a  staple  article  of  diet,  the  method  of  cooking 
what  is  there  termed  porridge,  and  what  we  call  mush, 
is  generally  the  same.  This  is  not  the  case  in  America. 
In  the  old  countries  the  meal  always  is  sprinkled  gradu- 
ally into  the  boiling  water ;  the  mush  being  stirred  con- 
stantly. Then  it  is  cooked  for  an  hour  or  more,  being 
placed  where  it  will  boil  gently  all  the  time,  and  being 
stirred  frequently.  The  people  of  Scotland  and  Ireland 
keep  smooth  iron  pots  for  the  special  purpose  of  cooking 
oatmeal.  These  pots  usually  have  feet,  diminishing  the 
danger  of  burning.  This  kind  of  pot  is  in  common 
use  in  the  South,  where  hominy  is  cooked  in  much 
the  same  way  that  oatmeal  is  cooked  in  Scotland. 
Hominy  is  as  important  in  the  South  as  oatmeal  is  in 
Scotland. 

By  cooking  oatmeal  in  the  manner  described,  one  ob- 
tains a  sweetness  and  richness  not  found  in  oatmeal  that 
has  been  cooked  in  a  double-boiler.  But  the  necessary 
stirring  breaks  the  grains,  and  the  dish  may  be  properly 

37 


578          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

called  mush.  Now,  if  the  grains  be  desired  to  remain 
whole,  there  should  be  no  stirring  after  the  first  ten 
minutes'  boiling.  In  baking  oatmeal,  you  may  get  every 
grain  well  cooked,  but  whole. 

Put  three  pints  of  boiling  water  and  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  into  a  stew-pan,  and  place  the  pan  on 
the  fire.  Gradually  stir  into  the  water  one  cupful  of 
coarse  oatmeal.  Let  it  boil  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
frequently;  then  turn  into  a  deep  earthen  bowl,  and 
cover  with  a  plate.  Set  the  bowl  in  a  pan.  Now  pour 
into  the  pan  enough  boiling  water  to  come  almost  to  the 
top  of  the  bowl.  Place  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and 
bake  for  two  or  three  hours.  Take  the  mush  from  the 
oven  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and  let  it  cool  in  the  bowl ; 
then  set  it  away  in  a  cold  place.  In  the  morning  put 
the  bowl  again  in  a  pan  containing  boiling  water,  and  set 
it  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour.  On  taking  it  from  the 
oven,  slip  a  knife  between  the  mush  and  the  bowl  and 
turn  the  mush  into  a  warm  dish. 

If  this  rule  be  followed  carefully,  the  mush  will  be  of 
delicious  flavor  and  each  grain  will  be  whole.  When 
one  is  fond  of  milk,  half  water  and  half  milk  may  be 
used  at  the  start.  This  is  an  especially  good  way  to 
cook  mush  for  children's  dinner  or  supper. 

*  Wheat  Germ  Mush. 

Wheat  germ  is  a  fine  meal  obtained  from  the  heart  of 
the  wheat.  It  makes  an  excellent  mush.  Into  the  inner 
basin  of  a  double-boiler  pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water ;  and 
after  setting  this  basin  on  the  stove,  gradually  sprinkle 
into  it  one  cupful  of  wheat  germ.  Stir  the  mixture  con- 
stantly until  it  boils  up ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  set  the  small  boiler  into  the  larger  one  (in  which,  as 
usual,  there  should  be  some  water).  Cook  for  twenty 
minutes,  having  the  water  in  the  outer  basin  boil  all  the 
time.  Serve  milk  or  cream  with  the  mush. 


A  GROUP  OF   SIMPLE  DISHES.  579 

This  is  a  pleasant  change  from  cracked  wheat  or  oat- 
meal. If  any  mush  be  left  from  breakfast,  it  may  be 
fried  like  hominy  for  breakfast  the  next  day. 

*  Hominy. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  excellent  simple  foods  that  we 
have,  and  may  be  used  in  a  variety  of  ways  for  breakfast 
or  supper.  It  unfortunately  happens  that  people  often 
fail  of  buying  the  right  kind  or  of  cooking  it  properly,  and 
so  do  not  know  its  value.  Get  the  fine  white  hominy. 
After  washing  a  cupful  in  three  waters,  stir  it  into  a 
quart  of  boiling  water ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
boil  gently  for  an  hour,  stirring  frequently.  This  simple 
work  is  all  that  is  required  for  obtaining  a  very  palatable 
and  nutritious  dish. 

Hominy  may  be  eaten  with  milk,  like  oatmeal,  or 
served  with  beefsteak  or  any  kind  of  roasted  or  broiled 
meat.  It  must  be  washed  clean  and  boiled  well  to  in- 
sure perfection.  If  any  part  of  the  dish  remain  after 
the  first  serving,  it  may  be  used  for  griddle-cakes  or 
muffins,  or  even  eaten  cold. 

*  Fried  Hominy. 

Still  another  way  to  serve  hominy  is  to  pour  it,  while 
hot,  into  a  deep  pan  which  has  been  dipped  into  cold 
•  water ;  allow  it  to  cool,  and  then  cut  it  into  slices,  which, 
after  they  have  been  sprinkled  lightly  with  flour,  are  to  be 
fried  in  a  pan  containing  just  enough  pork  fat  to  prevent 
burning.  It  takes  a  long  time  to  brown  hominy  in  this 
way  ;  and  as  the  fat  spatters  considerably,  the  frying-pan 
should  be  covered  during  the  cooking. 

*  Hominy  Snowflakes. 

This  is  the  name  given  to  a  new  preparation  for  Break- 
fast dishes.  It  is  easily  and  quickly  cooked,  and  affords 
a  pleasant  change  in  the  fare.  Put  a  cupful  of  the  snow- 


580          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

flakes  into  a  saucepan,  and  pour  over  them  a  cupful  and  a 
third  of  boiling  water ;  then  add  a  scant  teaspoonf ul  of 
salt,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Serve  the  same  as 
oatmeal. 

Or,  mix  a  cupful  of  the  snowflakes  with  one  cupful 
and  a  half  of  cold  milk  and  one  scant  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  put  the  mixture  into  the  inner  kettle  of  a 
double-boiler,  — the  outer  kettle  containing  boiling  water. 
Cook  for  ten  minutes.  A  richer  dish  is  obtained  by  this 
mode  of  cooking. 

*  Granulated  Yellow  Meal  Mush. 

• 

In  place  of  oatmeal,  hominy,  or  cracked  wheat,  this 
dish  will  be  found  a  pleasant  one  for  breakfast.  It  is 
made  by  putting  half  a  pint  of  meal  into  a  stew-pan, 
and  gradually  pouring  upon  it  three  pints  of  boiling 
water,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  beating  well ; 
and  finally  setting  the  mixture  on  the  stove  to  boil 
gently  for  an  hour  or  more.  Serve  cream  or  milk  with 
the  mush. 

*  Rye  Mush. 

Put  one  pint  of  boiling  water  into  a  stew-pan  and  on 
the  fire.  Mix  three  gills  of  rye  meal  with  three  gills  of 
cold  water.  Stir  this  into  the  boiling  water.  Add  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  the  mush  well,  and  place  it  on 
the  back  part  of  the  stove,  where  it  will  cook  slowly  for 
half  an  hour.  Serve  with  milk. 

*  Graham  Mush. 
Graham  mush  is  made  exactly  the  same  as  rye  mush. 

*  Rolled  Wheat  Mush. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water  and  a  generous  t 
teaspoonful  of  salt  into  a  stew-pan.     Place  on  the  fire, 
and  when  the  water  boils  rapidly,  sprinkle  in  one  cupful 


A  GROUP  OF   SIMPLE  DISHES.  581 

of  rolled  wheat.    Stir  the  mush  well,  and  set  back  where 
it  will  cook  slowly  for  one  hour.     Serve  with  milk. 

*  Pearled  Wheat  Mush. 

Wash  one  small  cupful  of  pearled  wheat  in  cold  water. 
Stir  it  into  one  generous  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  let 
it  boil  rapidly  for  ten  minutes.  Add  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  place  on  the  back  of 
the  stove  where  the  mush  will  simmer  for  three  hours. 
Serve  with  milk  or  cream. 

This  mush  can  be  cooked  one  day  and  be  heated  in  the 
double-boiler  for  breakfast  the  next  morning. 

The  Health  Food  Company  sells  a  nice  quality  of 
pearled  wheat. 

*  Toast. 

As  a  general  thing,  not  enough  care  is  taken  in  the 
preparation  of  toast.  Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  about 
one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  them  in  the  toaster  and 
hold  them  over  the  fire,  but  a  little  distance  from  it, 
until  they  become  slightly  dried.  It  will  take  about  two 
minutes.  Now  hold  the  toaster  near  the  fire,  and  brown 
the  bread  quickly,  being  careful  not  to  burn  it,  and  yet 
to  let  it  acquire  a  rich  brown  color.  The  toast  will  be 
delicate  and  crisp. 

*  Butter  Toast. 

This  is  made  by  dipping  the  edges  of  slices  of  toast  in 
.» oiling  water,  and  then  spreading  the  slices  with  butter. 
The  toast  should  be  served  immediately. 
- 

*  Cream  Toast. 

Heat  three  cupfuls  of  cream  to  the  boiling-point ;  then 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Put  a  slice  of  toast  in  a 
deep  warm  dish,  and  pour  a  little  of  the  cream  on  it; 
then  put  another  slice  in  the  dish,  and  pour  in  more 


582          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

cream.  Continue  in  this  way  until  all  the  materials  are 
used.  Three  cupfuls  of  cream  will  be  sufficient  for  seven 
or  eight  slices  of  toast.  Serve  hot. 

*  Milk  Toast. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  milk  from  a  quart,  and  put 
the  rest  in  a  double-boiler,  and  on  the  fire.  Mix  the 
cold  milk  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  the 
mixture  into  the  milk  when  it  begins  to  boil.  Stir  for 
two  minutes ;  then  put  the  cover  on  the  boiler,  and  let 
the  milk  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer. 

Now  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  and  a  half  of  salt.  Stir  well,  and  dip  the  slices  of 
toast  in  the  liquid ;  then  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish,  and 
pour  the  remainder  of  the  milk  over  them.  There  will 
be  enough  milk  for  ten  or  twelve  good-sized  slices  of 
toast.  If  bakers'  bread -be  used,  it  will  only  be  neces- 
sary to  dip  it  into  the  sauce  and  take  it  out  immediately. 
Home-made  will  not  absorb  the  milk  so  quickly,  and  it 
will  be  better  to  let  the  slices  remain  in  the  sauce  for  a 
minute  or  more. 

Graham,  brown  bread,  and  cracker  toast  are  made  in 
the  same  way.  Toast  the  bread  as  carefully  for  cream 
or  milk  toast  as  you  would  if  it  were  to  be  served 
dry. 

*  Toasted  Crackers. 

After  splitting  six  Boston  butter  crackers,  soak  them 
in  cold  water  until  they  begin  to  swell ;  then  remove 
them  from  the  water,  and  drain  them  on  a  plate.  Butter 
the  bottom  of  a  flat  baking-pan  very  lightly.  Spread 
the  crackers  in  this  pan,  crust  side  down,  and  put  them 
in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  In  that  time  they  should 
turn  a  delicate  brown.  Remove  them  from  the  oven, 
butter  them  lightly,  place  them  on  a  warm  dish,  and 
serve  at  once. 


A  GROUP  OF  SIMPLE  DISHES.  583 

It  makes  the  crackers  richer,  of  course,  to  soak  them 
in  milk  instead  of  water.  They  are  very  nice  served  with 
oyster  soup,  panned  oysters,  fricasseed  oysters,  oysters  in 
the  shell,  and  oysters  saute*.  The  crackers  may  be  toasted 
over  the  tire  instead  of  in  the  oven. 

*  French  Toast. 

Cut  from  a  loaf  of  baker's  bread  a  dozen  slices  about 
one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Beat  together  two  eggs  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  add  a  cupful  and 
a  half  of  milk.  Put  a  part  of  the  mixture  in  a  soup 
plate,  and  dip  a  few  slices  of  bread  into  it ;  and  continue 
adding  a  little  mixture  and  dipping  the  slices  until  all 
the  mixture  has  been  used.  Spread  the  bread  on  a 
platter,  and  let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  rub  the  bars  of  a  toaster  lightly  with  butter, 
and  toast  the  bread  brown  on  both  sides.  Send  to  the 
table  very  hot. 

*  Toasted  Pilot  Bread. 

Pilot  bread  is  the  large  water  cracker  commonly  used 
on  board  ships.  It  is  hard,  but  has  a  sweet,  nutty  flavor. 
For  six  persons  use  eight  or  ten  crackers.  Put  them  in 
a  dish,  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Let  them  soak  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  remove  them  from  the  water, 
and  spread  on  a  large  platter.  They  should  stand  for  at 
least  an  hour  or  two.  At  supper-time  butter  the  bars  of 
a  toaster  and  toast  the  crackers  —  a  few  at  a  time  • — 
until  they  turn  a  delicate  brown.  Spread  lightly  with 
butter,  and  serve  at  once. 

Instead  of  using  a  toaster,  the  crackers  may  be  put  in 
a  large  baking-pan  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  buttered  and  served.  These  toasted  crackers  are 
especially  good  with  broiled  salt  fish. 


584          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


PIES. 


Puff  Paste. 

NEARLY  all  cooks  and  housekeepers  lind  it  a  difficult 
thing  to  learn  to  make  putt'  paste.  Not  that  the  work 
is  complicated,  but  because  there  must  be  great  delicacy 
and  rapidity  of  touch.  In  the  hundreds  of  rules  given 
in  the  cook-books  of  all  countries,  the  principles  are  the 
same,  —  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of  flour,  with  varia- 
tions in  the  way  of  lemon  juice,  sugar,  or  egg  given  in 
one,  and  omitted  in  another. 

In  making  puff  paste  the  object  is  to  get  as  many  dis- 
tinct layers  as  possible.  Each  layer  should  be  as  thin 
as  a  sheet  of  note-paper.  To  insure  this  result,  all  the 
materials  and  utensils  used  must  be  very  cold,  and  the 
work  should  be  done  in  a  cool  room.  The  butter  should 
be  of  good  quality,  and  the  flour,  when  possible,  be  made 
by  the  old  process,  or  what  is  called  "half-high  mill- 
ing." This  flour  is  used  a  good  deal  at  the  West  and 
Southwest.  Flour  made  by  the  new,  or  high-milling, 
process  is  too  granular  to  make  perfect  puff  paste. 
Many  cooks,  however,  say  that  they  can  make  puff  paste 
quite  as  good  with  the  new  as  with  the  old-process  flour. 
The  writer's  experience  leads  her  strongly  to  recommend 
using  only  the  pastry  flour  or  the  "half-high  milling." 

In  making  puff  paste  the  flour,  water,  and  salt  may 
be  mixed  to  a  dough,  and  then  the  butter  be  rolled  with 
it.  Made  in  this  way  the  flakes  are  larger  and  more 
distinct;  but  the  pastry  is  not  quite  so  tender  as  it 
would  be  if  a  small  part  of  the  butter  were  mixed  with 
the  salt  and  flour  before  the  water  was  added. 


PIES.  586 

If  the  paste  cart  be  chilled  three  times  while  it  is  being 
made,  it  will  be  lighter,  and  the  flakes  will  be  larger. 
The  colder  and  smoother  the  board  on  which  the  paste 
is  made,  the  better  the  paste  will  be.  A  smooth  wooden 
board  answers  all  purposes,  but,  if  convenient,  a  marble 
or  a  slate  slab  is  preferable  because  colder.  Marble  is 
expensive  and  heavy,  but  a  slate  slab  is  light  and  inex- 
pensive ;  one  measuring  18  x  20  inches,  costing  about 
$1.50,  may  be  used. 

In  summer  there  must  be  ice  and  a  refrigerator;  in 
winter  snow  may  be  substituted  for  the  ice,  and  the 
chilling  may  be  done  in  a  cold  room  or  out  of  doors. 

Here  is  a  method  of  making  puff  paste  which  is  slow, 
but  the  beginner  may  be  almost  sure  of  success ;  and  when 
one  has  become  expert  in  handling  the  paste,  there  need 
be  no  intervals  between  the  several  times  of  rolling  it. 

For  a  large  vol-au-vent,  or  twelve  small  patties,  or 
four  medium-sized  pies,  use  one  quart  of  sifted  flour, 
two  cupfuls  of  butter,  packed  solid,  one  table-spoonfui 
of  sugar,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  about  a 
cupful  and  a  quarter  of  ice-water. 

Work  the  butter  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  until  it  is 
light  and  waxy ;  then  pat  it  between  the  hands  to  remove 
all  the  water.  Divide  it  into  four  thin  cakes ;  spread 
them  on  a  towel,  and  lay  them  on  the  ice  in  the  refrig- 
erator. 

Put  the  flour,  salt,  and  sugar  into  a  bowl.  On  a  firm 
table  put  the  pastry-board,  rolling-pin,  a  case-knife,  a 
plate  with  a  little  flour  for  dredging,  a  soft  towel,  a 
dripping-pan,  and  two  shallow  cake-pans.  The  three 
pans  must  be  water-tight.  Put  about  four  pounds  of  ice 
into  the  canvas  bag,  and  pound  it  until  it  is  almost  as 
fine  as  snow;  half  fill  one  of  the  cake-pans  with  this, 
and  put  the  remainder  into  the  dripping-pan.  Set  the 
cake-pan  filled  with  ice  into  the  empty  pan ;  place  these 
in  the  dripping-pan,  and  put  them  in  the  refrigerator  or 
in  a  cold  room.  This  is  for  chilling  the  paste  quickly. 


586          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Now  break  one  of  the  cakes  of  butter  and  rub  it 
quickly  into  the  flour,  always  keeping  plenty  of  flour 
between  the  hands  and  the  bits  of  butter.  Add  the  ice- 
water,  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  with  the  knife. 

When  a  smooth  ball  of  paste  is  formed,  sprinkle  the 
board  lightly  with  flour,  and  turn  the  paste  on  it.  Beat 
it  lightly  with  the  rolling-pin,  lifting  it  and  tossing  it 
back  on  to  the  board,  after  two  or  three  strokes  of  the 
pin ;  then  roll  the  paste  down  until  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  keeping  it  as  near  the  shape  of  a  square  as 
possible. 

Take  one  of  the  cakes  of  butter  from  the  refrigerator, 
and  cut  it  into  bits ;  spread  these  over  the  paste,  and 
sprinkle  lightly  with  flour.  Fold  the  paste  —  one-fourth 
from  each  side  —  so  that  the  edges  meet ;  then  fold 
from  the  ends,  but  do  not  have  these  meet.  Now  double 
the  paste,  pound  lightly,  and  roll  down  to  about  one- 
third  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Eold  as  before,  and  roll 
again.  Now  spread  another  cake  of  the  butter  as  before  ; 
sprinkle  with  flour,  and  fold.  Eoll  down  to  about  an 
inch  in  thickness  ;  place  the  paste  in  a  thin  napkin  ;  and 
lay  this  in  the  empty  cake-pan,  which  has  been  kept 
between  the  two  pans  of  ice.  Let  the  paste  chill  for 
twenty  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  roll  it  down 
to  the  thickness  of  one-fourth  of  an  inch ;  fold  it  as  de- 
scribed before,  and  roll  it  once  more.  Now  add  the  last 
of  the  butter,  and  roll  and  chill  as  before.  When  it  has 
been  chilled  for  twenty  minutes,  take  it  to  the  board 
again  and  roll  it  down  twice,  each  time  having  it  about 
one-third  of  an  inch,  or  less,  in  thickness.  After  the 
second  rolling  fold  it  in  the  middle  and  then  double  it. 
Roll  it  gently  until  it  is  about  the  size  of  the  pan  in 
which  it  cooled,  being  careful  to  have  it  equally  thick  in 
every  part.  Place  it  in  the  pan,  and  let  it  chill  for  one 
hour  or  more.  It  is  now  ready  for  use. 

A  word  of  caution,  —  use  as  little  flour  as  possible 
in  rolling  the  paste.  Let  each  stroke  of  the  rolling-pin 


PIES.  587 

be  light  and   even.     Be   sure  that  the  last  chilling  is 
thorough. 

Chopped  Puff  Paste. 

This  paste  is  made  quickly,  and  is  very  satisfactory, 
although  not  so  delicate  or  light  as  genuine  puff  paste. 
Into  a  chopping-tray  put  one  quart  of  sifted  flour,  one 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two 
cupfuls  of  unwashed  butter. 

Beat  two  eggs  very  light,  and  add  to  them  half  a 
cupful  of  ice- water  and  one  table- spoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  Chop  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  the  but- 
ter is  reduced  to  lumps  about  the  size  of  a  pea.  Then 
gradually  add  the  mixture  of  egg,  lemon  juice,  and  water, 
chopping  all  the  while.  When  all  the  mixture  has  been 
used,  sprinkle  the  moulding-board  with  flour,  and  turn 
the  paste  on  to  it.  Roll  and  fold  the  same  as  for  puff 
paste.  Do  this  three  or  four  times.  Chill  and  use  the 
same  as  puff  paste.  This  paste  may  be  used  without 
chilling,  but  it  will  not  be  so  light  and  delicate  as  if 
thoroughly  chilled. 

*  Plain  Paste  for  Pies. 

For  eight  pies  of  medium  size  use  two  quarts  of  sifted 
flour,  one  cupful  of  lard,  one  of  butter,  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  and  about  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
cold  water. 

Eeserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  flour,  and  put  the  re- 
mainder into  a  chopping-tray  with  the  salt,  sugar,  lard, 
and  butter.  Chop  until  all  these  ingredients  are  thor- 
oughly blended ;  then  add  the  water,  a  little  at  a  time, 
chopping  all  the  while.  When  the  water  gets  well  mixed 
with  the  other  ingredients  there  should  be  a  stiff  paste. 
Sprinkle  the  moulding-board  with  some  of  the  reserved 
flour,  and,  putting  the  paste  upon  it,  roll  down  to  the 
thickness  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Fold  the  paste 
and  roll  it  down  again  ;  and  repeat  the  operation  three 


588          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

times.  Put  the  paste  on  ice,  that  it  may  get  chilled. 
If  one  prefer  to  omit  the  lard,  an  extra  cupful  and  a  half 
of  butter  may  be  substituted.  Lard  makes  the  paste 
richer  and  tenderer,  but  butter  gives  a  better  flavor. 
The  smaller  the  quantity  of  flour  used  on  the  moulding- 
board,  the  nicer  will  be  the  paste. 

Unfortunately  some  housekeepers  make  pies  every 
week  in  the  year,  and  they  and  their  families  would  feel 
lost  if  a  day  passed  without  the  usual  quantity  of  pie. 
Wiser  housekeepers  have  pies  only  occasionally,  and 
when  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  which  they  are  made 
are  at  their  best. 


*  Apple  Pie. 

For  two  large  pies  use  enough  apples  to  make  three 
quarts  when  pared,  cored,  and  cut  into  eighths,  two  tea- 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  about  one-third  of  a  grated  nutmeg,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  eight  of  water ;  and  for  the 
crust  use  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  of  butter,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lard,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of 
sugar,  and  a  scant  half-cupful  of  cold  water. 

Follow  the  directions  previously  given  for  plain  paste, 
using  the  quantities  of  ingredients  given  here.  Now 
prepare  the  apples.  Butter  two  deep  plates,  and  line 
them  with  a  thin  layer  of  paste.  Cover  the  bottom  of 
the  plates  with  apples,  being  careful  to  place  them  so 
that  the  sharp  edges  shall  not  cut  through-  the  paste. 
Fill  the  plates  with  the  remainder  of  the  apples. 

Mix  the  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  the  nutmeg,  and  sprinkle  half  of  this  mixture 
over  each  plate  of  apples ;  then  sprinkle  half  of  the  half- 
cupful  of  water  over  the  fruit. 

Roll  a  piece  of  the  paste  to  a  size  a  little  larger  than 
the  pie  plates.  Make  a  small  slit  in  the  centre  of  this 
paste/  Cover  one  pie  with  this.  With  a  knife  lift  the 
edge  of  the  under  crust,  and  tuck  in  the  edge  of  the  top 


PIES.  589 

crust.     When  all  the  edge  has  been  secured  in  this  man- 
ner, press  the  two  edges  together  gently. 

Cover  the  second  pie  in  the  same  way,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  fifty  minutes. 

*  Apple  Tart. 

Make  a  plain  paste,  as  for  apple  pie.  Heap*  pared, 
cored,  and  quartered  apples  in  two  oval  vegetable-dishes 
that  have  flat  rims.  Each  dish  should  hold  about  two 
quarts.  Over  each  grate  one-fourth  of  a  nutmeg  and  half 
the  thin  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon.  Sprinkle  into  each 
dish  a  generous  cupful  of  sugar  and  one-third  of  a  cupful 
of  water.  Cover  with  paste  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
"  fulling "  it  over  the  apples  a  little.  The  flat  edge  of 
the  dish  must  be  covered  with  the  paste.  Prick  the 
paste  in  several  places  with  a  fork.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  cream  and 
sugar  with  this  tart. 

This  is  by  far  the  most  desirable  manner  of  baking 
paste  and  fruit  together,  as  there  is  no  under  crust  to 
become  soggy  with  the  juices  of  the  fruit. 

Swiss  Apple  Tartlet. 

For  a  tartlet  about  the  size  of  a  large  breakfast-plate 
use  three  pints  of  apples,  one  cupful  and  a  quarter  of 
sugar,  the  same  quantity  of  water,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
grated  nutmeg,  and  plain  or  rich  paste  to  line  the  plate, 
(one  cupful  of  flour,  with  the  other  ingredients  for  the 
paste,  will  be  sufficient  for  one  tartlet). 

Pare,  quarter,  and  core  the  apples.  Put  a  cupful  of 
sugar  and  a  cupful  of  water  in  a  small  stew-pan,  and  boil 
for  eight  minutes ;  then  add  a  pint  of  the  quartered 
apples,  and  cook  gently  until  tender  —  perhaps  for  ten 
minutes.  Take  the  pieces  from  the  syrup,  and  place 
them  on  a  large  plate  to  cool.  Now  put  another  pint  of 
the  apples  into  the  syrup,  and  cook  and  cool  as  before. 


590          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

When  the  second  pint  has  been  removed  from  the  syrup, 
cook  the  third  one,  with  the  cover  on  the  stew-pan,  until 
the  apples  are  so  soft  that  the  fruit  will  mash  readily. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  put  away  to  cool. 

Now  prepare  the  paste  for  the  tartlet.  Butter  the 
plate,  and  roll  out  a  piece  of  paste  large  enough  to  cover 
it.  Then  roll  out  another  piece,  one-third  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  large  enough  to  go  around  the  plate  when  cut 
into  strips  an  inch  wide.  Wet  the  edge  of  the  paste 
that  is  on  the  plate,  and  lay  the  strips  upon  it.  Grate 
half  the  nutmeg  and  half  the  lemon  rind  upon  the  whole 
quarters  of  apples,  and  half  upon  the  mashed  apples. 
Put  the  latter  in  the  bottom  of  the  pie-plate,  and 
arrange  the  whole  quarters  on  top  of  it,  putting  them 
close  together,  and  being  careful  to  have  the  rounded 
sides  up.  Put  the  tartlet  into  a  rather  hot  oven,  and 
bake  it  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  it  has  been 
baking  for  half  an  hour,  put  the  remaining  sugar  and 
water  on  to  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  When  the  tartlet 
is  taken  from  the  oven,  pour  over  the  apples,  by  means 
of  a  spoon,  the  hot  syrup  made  by  boiling  the  water  and 
sugar  together ;  then  return  to  the  oven,  and  cook  five 
minutes  longer.  On  removing  the  tartlet  from  the  oven 
slip  it  on  to  a  cold  plate,  and  put  it  away  to  cool. 

This  is  a  very  attractive  dish,  and  not  much  more 
work  is  required  to  make  it  than  to  make  an  apple  pie. 
Each  piece  of  apple  in  the  tartlet  should  be  whole  and 
of  a  bright  rich  color.  Lemon  or  cinnamon  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  nutmeg. 

*  Gooseberry  Tart. 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  gooseberries,  one  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  one  cupful  and 
a  half  of  flour,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  about  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Mix  the  baking-powder,  salt,  and  butter  lightly  with 


PIES.  691 

the  flour.  Add  the  water  gradually,  stirring  with  a 
knife.  When  a  smooth  paste  is  formed,  turn  it  on  to  a 
board  that  has  been  sprinkled  lightly  with  flour.  Koll 
the  paste  down  to  a  thin  sheet  about  one-fourth  of  an 
inch  thick.  Fold  it  up  and  roll  down  again  ;  then  put  in 
a  cool  place  until  the  fruit  is  ready.  If  possible,  put  it 
on  ice. 

Free  the  berries  of  stems  and  blossoms ;  then  wash 
them  and  put  into  an  oval  vegetable-dish,  heaping  them 
in  the  centre.  Grate  the  nutmeg,  and  sprinkle  the 
sugar  over  the  fruit. 

Now  roll  the  paste  into  the  shape  of  the  top  of  the  dish, 
but  somewhat  larger,  to  allow  for  turning  the  edges  in  a 
little.  Cut  a  small  slit  in  the  centre  of  the  paste,  and 
lift  it  from  the  board  to  the  dish,  being  careful  to  put  it 
on  evenly.  Turn  the  edges  in  a  little,  and  press  them 
against  the  sides  of  the  dish.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  for  an  hour;  then  set  away  to  cool.  At  serving- 
time  sprinkle  the  top  of  the  tart  with  sugar. 

This  is  delicious  without  any  sauce,  but  English 
people  usually  serve  cream  or  soft  custard  with  it.  Cur- 
rant tarts  are  made  in  the  same  manner. 

*  Rhubarb  Pie. 

Put  into  a  chopping-bowl  a  cupful  of  sifted  flour,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  chop  until  the 
ingredients  get  well  mixed ;  then  add  a  little  more  than 
one-eighth  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  continue  the 
chopping  until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed.  Put  away  in 
a  cold  place  until  needed  later. 

Mix  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and 
afterward  add  a  well-beaten  egg  and  a  heaping  cupful 
of  chopped  rhubarb.  Now  take  a  part  of  the  paste 
which  was  put  away,  and  roll  it  rather  thin.  Use  it  for 
lining  a  deep  pie-plate,  and  turn  the  rhubarb  mixture 


592          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

into  the  plate.  Boll  the  remainder  of  the  paste  thin, 
and  cover  the  plate  with  it,  pressing  together  the  edges 
of  the  paste,  —  that  is,  of  the  covering  and  lining.  Bake 
in  a  rather  quick  oven  for  forty  minutes,  reducing  the 
heat  after  the  first  ten. 

How  to  Line  Plates  for  Pies. 

These  directions  apply  only  to  squash,  pumpkin,  and 
custard  pies. 

Butter  a  deep  pie-plate.  Roll  the  pastry  a  little 
larger  than  the  plate  and  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Cover  the  plate  with  this  paste,  being  careful 
not  to  shut  in  air  between  the  paste  and  the  plate.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  lift  one  side  of  the  paste  and  lower  it 
slowly,  passing  the  left  hand  over  it  from  the  centre  to 
the  edge  as  it  touches  the  plate.  This  will  force  out  any 
air  that  may  have  lodged  under  the  paste.  Treat  both 
sides  in  this  manner.  The  paste  should  hang  about  half 
an  inch  over  the  edge  of  the  plate.  Koll  it  up  until  it 
rests  on  the  edge  of  the  plate, — the  rolled  part  being 
underneath.  There  will  then  be  a  thick  edge  all  round 
the  plate.  Pinch  this  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
until  a  thin  scalloped  wall  is  formed.  It  is  always 
necessary  to  build  a  barrier  like  this,  because  plates  are 
not  made  deep  enough  for  squash,  pumpkin,  or  custard 
pies. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  many  housekeepers  do  not 
know  the  difference  between  a  pumpkin  and  squash,  and 
cook  both  in  the  same  manner.  The  squash  can  be  pre- 
pared in  many  ways  ;  the  pumpkin  is  desirable  only  in 
pies.  The  squash  can  be  boiled  or  steamed  in  half  an 
hour ;  the  pumpkin  must  be  cooked  for  six  hours. 

*  Squash  Pie. 

The  materials  needed  for  two  large  pies  are  five  cup- 
fulg  of  stewed  and  strained  squash,  five  cupfuls  of  milk, 


PIES.  598 

one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  heaping  cupful  of  sugar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  a 
piece  of  stick  cinnamon  about  five  inches  long,  four  eggs, 
and  about  one-third  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 

Put  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler  with  the  stick  cinna- 
mon, broken  into  small  pieces,  and  the  lemon  rind.  Let 
it  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Add  the  butter,  and  then 
strain  the  liquor  on  the  squash*  Stir  constantly  while 
adding  the  milk.  Now  add  the  sugar,  salt,  and  nv.tineg, 
and  set  away  to  cool. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  them  to  the  squash  mix- 
ture. Fill  the  plates,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

*  Pumpkin  Pie. 

Cut  a  pumpkin  into  long  strips.  Remove  the  soft  pulp 
and  the  seeds.  Pare  the  strips,  and  cut  them  into  small 
pieces.  Wash  and  measure  these  pieces,  and  put  them 
into  a  stew-pan  containing  one-fourth  as  much  boiling 
water  as  there  is  pumpkin.  Cover,  and  place  on  the  fire. 
When  it  has  boiled  for  ten  minutes,  set  back  where  it 
will  simmer  for  six  hours.  When  it  has  cooked  for  four 
hours  add  one  cupful  of  molasses  for  every  six  quarts 
of  the  vegetable.  Stir  frequently,  to  prevent  burning. 
When  done,  rub  through  a  sieve,  and  measure.  For  two 
large  pies  use  five  cupfuls  of  the  strained  pumpkin,  one 
quart  of  boiling  milk,  one  small  cupful  of  sugar,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  cinnamon,  four 
eggs,  and  one-fourth  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 

Mix  the  salt  and  spice  with  the  pumpkin.  Add  the 
boiling  milk,  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Add  the  sugar,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add 
the  eggs,  well  beaten. 

Line  two  deep  plates  with  plain  paste.  Pour  the  mix- 
ture into  them,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour 


594          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

It  is  always  best  to  cook  the  pumpkin  the  day  before 
the  pies  are  to  be  made. 

Orange  Pie. 

For  a  plate  that  holds  a  pint,  use  the  rind  of  one  large 
orange,  and  the  juice  of  two  large  or  three  small  ones,  a 
cupful  of  water,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  level  table-spoon- 
fuls of  corn-starch,  one  of  powdered  sugar,  one-eighth  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  eggs. 

Use  four  table-spoonfuls  of  water  to  mix  with  the  corn- 
starch,  and  put  the  remainder  on  the  stove  in  a  stew-pan. 
When  it  boils,  stir  the  mixed  corn-starch  into  it,  and 
cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Take 
from  the  fire  at  the  end  of  that  time,  and  add  the  salt, 
orange  rind  and  juice,  and  the  cupful  of  sugar.  Set  away 
to  cool ;  and  when  it  becomes  cold,  add  the  white  of  one 
egg,  and  the  yolks  of  two,  all  well  beaten. 

Put  two  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  bowl, 
and  rub  into  it  one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
a  quantity  of  salt  about  as  large  as  a  pea.  Add  enough 
cold  water  —  perhaps  a  level  table-spoonful  —  to  make 
a  stiff  dough.  Sprinkle  a  moulding-board  with  flour,  and 
roll  the  paste  very  thin.  Line  the  buttered  plate  with 
this  dough,  and  pour  the  orange  mixture  into  the  plate. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  beat  the  reserved  white  of  an  egg  to  a 
stiff,  dry  froth,  and  then  beat  into  it  the  table-spoonful 
of  powdered  sugar.  Spread  this  mixture  over  the  pie, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  with  the  oven  door  open. 
Close  the  door  for  two  minutes  (making  twelve  minutes' 
cooking  of  the  me'ringue  in  all)  to  give  a  good  color  to 
the  froth.  Set  the  pie  away  to  cool  before  serving. 

Lemon  Cream  Pie. 

To  make  the  filling  for  this  pie  there  must  be  taken 
the  juice  of  three  lemons  and  the  rind  of  one,  a  teaspoon- 


PIES.  595 

ful  of  butter,  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  corn-starch, 
a  large  cupful  of  water,  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  four  eggs ;  and  the 
crust  will  require  three  large  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one 
large  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  some  water. 

Make  the  crust  by  rubbing  the  butter  into  the  flour, 
adding  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  smooth,  stiff  paste, 
and  then  rolling  very  thin. 

Mix  the  corn-starch  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
cupful  of  water.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  water  into  a 
saucepan,  with  the  lemon  rind  and  juice  and  the  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  heat  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  stir  the 
corn-starch  into  the  boiling  mixture,  and  cook  for  two 
minutes.  Stir  the  butter  into  the  mixture,  and  set  away 
to  cool.  When  cool,  add  the  yolks  of  the  four  eggs,  well 
beaten.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  large  deep  plate  that 
has  been  lined  with  paste,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  thirty-five  minutes.  During  the  last  quarter  of  an 
hour  make  a  meringue  by  beating  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  gradually  beating  the  powdered 
eggs  into  this  froth.  At  the  end  of  the  thirty-five 
minutes  cover  the  pie  ivith  the  meringue,  and  bake,  with 
the  oven  door  open,  for  ten  minutes  longer. 

By  following  this  rule,  one  gets  a  very  large  deep  pie. 
The  materials  named  are  sufficient  for  making  two  small 
and  rather  thin  pies. 

At  serving- time  the  dish  should  be  as  cold  as  possible. 

Orange  Cream  Pie. 

For  the  cake  use  a  scant  half-cupful  of  butter,  two 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  three  cupfuls  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  one 
of  milk,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  three 
eggs. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  into  it 
the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  and  then  beat  them  into 
the  sugar  and  butter;  add  the  milk,  and  then  the  flour 


596          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  baking-powder,  mixed.  Spread  the  mixture  in  six 
well-buttered  Washington-pie  tins,  —  these  shallow  plates 
are  also  called  "jelly-cake  tins."  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  eighteen  minutes.  These  six  cakes  will 
make  three  pies.  The  cake  is  very  tender,  and  must  be 
handled  with  care  when  it  is  taken  from  the  pans.  Let  the 
cakes  cool,  and  then  fill  them  with  the  cream  filling. 

Cream  for  Filling.  — The  materials  are  :  four  medium- 
sized  oranges,  one  lemon,  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  wa- 
ter, one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter. 

Into  a  saucepan  put  two  cupfuls  of  water  and  the 
grated  yellow  rind  of  two  of  the  oranges,  and  place  on 
the  fire.  Mix  the  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  water.  Simmer  for  ten 
minutes.  Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  together, 
and  stir  into  the  boiling  mixture.  Cook  for  two  minutes 
longer,  stirring  all  the  while.  Take  from  the  fire,  and 
add  the  butter  and  orange  and  lemon  juice ;  beat  well, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  When  the  mixture  is  cold,  spread 
it  on  three  of  the  round  cakes,  and  cover  with  the  other 
three  cakes.  These  pies  may  be  frosted  and  decorated 
with  sections  of  oranges,  or  they  may  be  served  plain. 


*  Cream  Pie. 

Beat  three  eggs  very  light  with  the  Dover-beater ;  add 
to  them  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
beat  with  a  spoon  until  the  entire  mixture  is  creamy. 
Add  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  beat  three 
minutes  longer. 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  into  the  sieve;  mix 
with  it  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder;  add 
one  gill  of  cold  water  to  the  beaten  egg  and  sugar ;  then 
sift  in  the  flour  and  baking-powder,  and  beat  well.  Pour 
a  little  more  than  half  of  this  mixture-  into  two  buttered 


PIES.  597 

deep  tin  plates.  Pour  the  remainder  into  a  small  cake- 
pan.  Bake  the  part  in  the  plates  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  that  in  the  pan  for  twenty-five.  The  two  round 
plates  are  for  the  pies,  and  the  sheet  of  cake  may  be 
used  in  the  basket.  It  improves  if  kept  a  day  or  two. 

Split  the  round  cakes,  and  fill  with  the  prepared 
cream. 

To  Make  the  Cream.  —  Put  three  gills  of  milk  into  the 
double-boiler,  and  place  on  the  fire.  Beat  together  in  a 
bowl  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  one  large  egg,  and  half  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 
When  this  is  light  and  smooth,  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
milk.  Beat  well  for  two  minutes  ;  cover  the  boiler,  and 
cook  the  cream  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
Season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  lemon  ex- 
tract. Cool  and  use. 

This  cream  is  more  delicate  if  one  table-spoonful  of 
flour  be  omitted  and  two  eggs  be  used. 

Chocolate  Cream  Pie. 

This  is  made  in  three  parts,  —  first  the  cake,  then  the 
cream,  and  finally  the  icing. 

To  Make  the  Cake.  —  Beat  half  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a 
cream,  and  gradually  beat  into  it  one  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar.  Beat  two  eggs  till  light,  and  then  beat  them  into 
the  sugar  and  butter.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  milk  and 
two  level  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  with  which  has  been 
mixed  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  baking-powder.  Beat 
this  mixture  quickly  and  vigorously,  and  pour  into  four 
deep  tin  plates  that  have  been  well  buttered.  Spread 
the  batter  evenly  in  the  plates,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Carefully  remove  the 
cakes  from  the  tins,  and  put  them  on  earthen  plates. 

To  Make  the  Cream.  —  Beat  together  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Put  a  cupful  of  milk  into  a  double-boiler,  and 


598          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

when  it  boils,  add  the  beaten  mixture  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Stir  constantly  until  the  mixture  be- 
comes smooth;  then  cover,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes, 
stirring  frequently.  On  taking  from  the  fire  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

To  Make  Chocolate  Icing.  —  Mix  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate  and  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Beat  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth  the  whites  of  those  two  eggs 
whose  yolks  were  used  in  making  the  cream,  and  grad- 
ually beat  into  them  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Put  the  mixture  of 
chocolate  and  sugar  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until 
smooth  and  glossy.  Beat  this  cooked  mixture  into  the 
mixture  of  egg  whites  and  sugar. 

Spread  two  of  the  cakes  with  the  cooked  cream,  and 
spread  a  thin  layer  of  chocolate  icing  over  the  cream. 
Place  the  other  two  cakes  on  top  of  the  first  two,  and 
spread  the  remainder  of  the  icing  over  them.  Let  the 
pies  stand  for  at  least  two  hours  before  serving. 


*  Washington  Pie. 

For  two  pies  make  the  cake  the  same  as  for  orange 
cream  pies.  When  the  cakes  are  cold,  place  one  on  a 
plate,  spread  a  thin  layer  of  raspberry  or  strawberry  jam 
on  it ;  put  a  second  cake  on  top  of  this,  and  spread  jam 
on  it ;  place  a  third  cake  on  the  other  two,  and  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar.  Treat  the  other  three  cakes  in 
the  same  manner.  Any  cup  cake,  plain  or  rich,  may  be 
used  for  Washington  pies ;  and  any  fruit  jam  may  be 
substituted  for  strawberry  or  raspberry. 

Potato  Pie. 

The  materials  area  generous  pint  .of  mashed  potato, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  pint  of  cream,  a  gill  of 


PIES.  599 

port,  one  gill  of  sugar,  four  eggs,  about  one-fourth  of  a 
grated  nutmeg,  and  a  scant  half-teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Rub  the  mashed  potato  through  a  sieve ;  add  the  sugar 
to  it,  and  then  the  cream,  stirring  it  in  gradually.  Next 
add  the  butter,  melted.  Stir  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  the  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  then  the  wine,  a 
little  at  a  time.  Last  of  all,  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Have  two  small  deep  plates 
lined  with  puff  paste.  Pour  this  preparation  into  them, 
and  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

0 

Cream  Cheese  Tart. 

Use  one  cupful  of  cottage  cheese,  half  a  cupful  of 
sweet  cream,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful 
of  blanched  and  chopped  almonds,  one  cupful  of  cur- 
rants, and  four  eggs. 

Butter  a  deep  plate,  and  line  it  with  a  very  thin  sheet 
of  dough  made  in  the  manner  described  for  making  lun- 
cheon rolls  in  the  chapter  on  "  Bread."  Beat  the  cream 
into  the  cheese.  Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  to- 
gether, and  add  the  cheese  and  cream.  Beat  this  mixture 
for  two  minutes,  and  then  add  the  almonds  and  currants. 
Last  of  all  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth.  Pour  into  the  plate,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Chantilly  Tarts. 

These  dainty  bits  of  pastry  are  made  of  two  cupfuls  of 
flour,  one  of  butter,  a  scant  half-cupful  of  water,  about 
half  a  cupful  of  strawberry  preserve,  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
the  white  of  an  egg. 

Put  the  flour,  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  into  a  chopping- 
bowl,  and  chop  until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  mixed  with 
the  flour  j  then  add  the  water,  and  continue  chopping 
until  smooth  dough  is  formed.  Sprinkle  a  moulding- 


600          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

board  very  lightly  with  flour,  and,  placing  the  dough 
upon  it,  pound  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  roll  till  thin. 
Fold  the  paste,  and  pound  and  roll  again ;  and  after 
doing  the  same  operation  a  third  time,  set  the  paste  on 
ice.  When  it  has  become  thoroughly  chilled,  roll  it 
down  to  the  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  and  cut  it 
into  circular  pieces  with  a  large  pattie-cutter  or  biscuit- 
cutter.  With  a  smaller  tin,  cut  the  centres  out  of  these 
pieces.  Gather  up  the  scraps  of  paste,  and  roll  very  thin, 
and  cut  out  with  the  large  cutter  as  many  pieces  as  there 
are  rings  of  paste.  Moisten  these  pieces  with  the  beaten 
white  of  an  egg,  and  place  the  rings  upon  them.  Bake 
in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  and  on  removing 
from  the  oven,  fill  with  strawberry  preserve.  At  serving- 
time  cover  the  tarts  with  whipped  cream. 

Mince-meat. 

Take  three  pounds  of  beef  from  the  tenderest  part  ot 
the  round,  half  a  pound  of  chopped  suet,  three  quarts  of 
pared  and  chopped  apples,  three  cupfuls  of  stoned  raisins, 
two  cupfuls  of  dried  currants,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
citron,  a  cupful  of  molasses,  three  of  sugar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  ground  mace,  four  of  cinnamon,  one  of 
allspice,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  cloves,  three  grated 
nutmegs,  two  lemons,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  five 
cupfuls  of  cider,  one  pint  of  wine,  and  a  pint  of  brandy. 

Free  the  beef  of  fat  and  skin,  and  chop  it  very  fine. 
Chop  the  apples  rather  coarse ;  they  should  be  fine- 
flavored  and  tart.  Put  all  the  ingredients,  except  the 
cider,  wine,  brandy,  and  lemons,  into  a  large  bowl.  Grate 
the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemons,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of 
the  fruit  upon  the  mixture.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and 
then  add  the  cider.  Put  the  mince-meat  into  a  porcelain 
kettle,  and  heat  very  slowly  to  the  boiling-point;  then 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  wine  and  brandy.  Put 
into  stone  jars,  and  keep  until  needed.  It  is  well  to  try 


PIES.  601 

the  mince-meat  by  putting  a  spoonful  of  it  in  a  small 
piece  of  paste  and  baking  it,  for  the  flavor  is  developed 
in  baking.  Tastes  differ  in  regard  to  seasoning ;  and 
while  some  persons  may  not  think  the  quantities  in  this 
receipt  are  sufficient,  others  may  think  that  the  flavor  is 
even  too  strong.  If  there  be  objection  to  brandy  or 
wine,  use,  instead,  an  extra  pint  and  a  half  of  cider. 

Mince-meat  improves  with  keeping.  It  should  be 
made  at  least  a  fortnight  before  it  is  baked  in  pies, 
and  the  pies  should  be  baked  for  an  hour. 

*  Plain  Mince-meat. 

Cover  four  pounds  of  a  round  of  beef  with  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  simmer  for  five  hours ;  then  let  it  coo' 
in  the  water,  and  when  it  is  cold,  free  it  of  fat  and  chop 
quite  fine,  but  not  to  a  powder.  There  should  be  a  gen- 
erous quart  of  the  chopped  meat.  Add  to  it  three  quarts 
of  pared  and  chopped  apples,  a  pint  of  fine-chopped  suet, 
a  quart  of  stoned  and  chopped  raisins,  a  quart  of  English 
currants,  a  quart  of  molasses,  three  pints  of  sugar,  half 
a  cupful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  table-spoonful  of  cloves, 
two  of  allspice,  two  of  mace,  six  grated  nutmegs,  half  a 
cupful  of  salt,  and  some  citron,  if  you  choose. 

Mix  these  ingredients  thoroughly  with  the  hands,  and 
then  add  three  quarts  of  good  cider.  Let  the  mince- 
meat stand  over  night,  and  in  the  morning,  after  heating 
it  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  simmering  for  one 
hour,  turn  it  into  stone  jars  and  set  it  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

If  you  like  you  may  add  wine  or  brandy  when  you  put 
the  mince-meat  away  or  when  making  the  pies,  but  it  is 
nice  without  either.  It  is  an  improvement,  however,  to 
put  a  quart  of  stoned  raisins  into  the  mixture  at  the 
time  it  is  scalded. 

This  mince-meat  will  keep  for  three  months  in  ordi- 
nary stone  jars,  even  if  there  be  no  brandy  or  wine.  The 


602          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

crust  for  the  pies  should  be  either  puff  paste  or  rich 
chopped  paste.  The  upper  crust  should  be  very  thick, 
and  the  pies  should  bake  for  an  hour.  Mince  pies  are 
always  better  if  baked  several  days  before  they  are 
served. 

*  Cheap  Mince-meat. 

The  materials  are  :  one  cupful  of  chopped  cooked  meat, 
two  of  chopped  apple,  a  half-cupful  of  chopped  raisins, 
half  a  cupful  of  currants,  one  cupful  of  cider,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  molasses,  one  cupful  of  the  water  in  which  the 
meat  was  boiled,  two  teaspoonf uls  of  salt,  one  of  cinna- 
mon, one  of  allspice,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  clove,  and  a 
half-teaspoonful  of  nutmeg.  The  cider  may  be  omitted 
and  the  juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon  used  instead.  Mix 
all  together,  and  then  heat  to  the  boiling-point. 


PUDDINGS.  603 


PUDDINGS. 

MANY  housekeepers  look  upon  all  dessert  in  the  light 
of  luxuries ;  others  draw  the  line  at  dishes  that  call  for 
eggs.  Now,  some  dessert  dish,  if  properly  made,  should 
form  a  part  of  every  dinner,  if  no  fruit  be  served.  Even 
with  fruit,  some  people  require  sugar.  When  no  dessert 
is  provided,  a  greater  quantity  of  meat  and  vegetables 
must  be  eaten  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  nature.  For 
some  this  is  all  right,  but  for  the  majority  of  people  a 
certain  amount  of  sugar  and  starch  is  necessary.  Chil- 
dren should  not  be  deprived  of  this  kind  of  food.  Even 
for  the  poor  it  is  economical  to  provide  a  simple  dessert. 

In  arranging  for  a  dinner,  plan  a  light  dessert  when 
the  rest  of  the  meal  is  to  be  substantial.  On  the  other 
hand,  when  the  main  part  of  ^he  dinner  is  to  be  light, 
let  the  dessert  be  hot  and  substantial.  For  example,  if 
the  first  part  of  the  meal  consists  of  cold  meat  and  vege- 
tables, or  a  hash  and  one  vegetable,  serve  a  hot  apple 
pudding  for  dessert.  A  good  one  can  be  made  of  a  pint 
of  flour,  prepared  as  for  cream-of-tartar  biscuit,  rolled  thin, 
and  filled  with  pared  and  quartered  apples,  then  steamed 
for  two  hours,  and  served  with  molasses  or  sugar  sauce. 
Or  the  apples  may  be  put  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  little 
water  and  sugar  or  a  little  molasses,  stewed  for  a  few 
minutes,  covered  with  the  biscuit  dough,  and  cooked  for 
about  twenty  minutes  longer.  No  sauce  will  be  needed 
with  this  pudding.  Nothing  could  be  cheaper,  and  it  will 
be  very  palatable  and  wholesome. 

Apples  may  be  added  to  boiled  sago  or  tapioca  with  a 
pleasing  result.  Soak  a  cupful  of  either  tapioca  or  sago 


604          MISS   PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

in  three  cupfuls  of  cold  water  over  night ;  then  cook  it 
in  a  double-boiler  for  half  an  hour.  Add  to  the  contents 
of  the  boiler  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  two  quarts  of  pared  and  quartered  apples. 
Bake  in  a  pudding-dish  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Cool 
slightly,  and  serve  with  or  without  sugar  and  cream  or 
milk.  These  puddings  are  so  simple  that  they  will  not 
hurt  even  an  invalid. 

The  simple  dishes  that  can  be  made  of  apples  are 
numerous ;  and  as  the  fruit  is  so  cheap  and  healthful,  it 
should  be  used  freely  through  the  fall  and  winter. 

Puddings  made  of  milk  and  rice,  tapioca,  sago,  corn- 
starch,  etc.,  are  healthful,  and  cheap,  and,  to  most  tastes, 
appetizing,  when  properly  cooked.  The  trouble  with 
almost  all  simple  dishes  is  that  the  cook  thinks  that  they 
are  not  worth  careful  treatment ;  but  refined  taste  shows 
itself  in  the  simplest  operation  of  cooking  as  well  as  in 
the  making  of  elaborate  dishes. 

HOT    PUDDINGS 

m  erf.1  l 

~*      ~~  bfls 

*  Hot  Farina  Pudding. 

Use  one  quart  of  milk,  four  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of 
farina,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Put  all  the  milk 
but  half  a  cupful  on  to  boil.  When  it  boils,  add  the 
farina  and  salt,  mixed  with  the  cold  milk.  Cook  for  one 
hour,  stirring  frequently,  and  serve  with  sugar  and 
milk. 

*  Corn-starch  Pudding. 

The  materials  needed  are :  one  quart  of  milk,  five 
table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Reserve  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  remainder 
on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  cold  milk, 
yolks,  corn-starch,  and  salt,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk. 


PUDDINGS.  605 


Cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently.     Pour  into  a 
pudding-dish,  and  serve  with  strawberry  sauce. 


*  Keserve  half  a  cupful  of  milk  from  a  quart,  and  put 
the  remainder  into  a  double-boiler  on  the  stove.  Mix 
four  large  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  and  a  teaspoouf  ul 
of  salt  with  the  half -cupful  of  milk ;  stir  into  the  boiling 
milk,  and  beat  well  for  two  minutes.  Cover  the  boiler, 
and  let  the  pudding  cook  for  twelve  minutes  ;  then  pour 
it  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  for  half 
an  hour. 

At  serving-time  make  the  sauce  in  this  way  :  Beat  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  beat  into 
this  two  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar ;  as  soon  as 
the  sugar  is  mixed  with  the  whites,  add  half  a  large 
tumbler  of  currant  or  any  other  bright  jelly ;  or  any  kind 
of  preserved  fruit  may  be  used. 

Sugar  and  cream  are  good  and  popular  accompaniments 
of  corn-starch  pudding. 

*  Rice  Caramel  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  use  one  cupful  of  rice,  one  quart  and 
two  gills  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  eggs,  one 
stick  of  cinnamon,  and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  soak  in  cold  water 
for  two  hours  ;  then  drain  off  all  the  water,  and  put  the 
rice  in  the  double-boiler  with  the  milk  and  cinnamon. 
Cook  for  two  hours. 

Put  the  sugar  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  it 
turns  brown  and  becomes  liquid.  Instantly  pour  this 
liquid  into  a  three-pint  mould  that  has  been  warmed  on 
the  back  part  of  the  range.  Turn  the  mould  round  so 
as  to  coat  all  parts  of  it  with  the  sugar.  The  liquid 
hardens  quickly,  and  the  work  must  be  done  rapidly,  or 
the  sugar  will  not  spread.  Now  add  to  the  rice  the  salt 


606          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  the  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  stir  well.  Pack  this 
mixture  in  the  sugar-lined  mould.  Cover  the  mould,  and 
after  placing  it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  set  it  in  the 
oven.  Bake  for  half  an  hour. 

On  taking  the  pudding  from  the  oven,  let  it  stand  for 
ten  minutes ;  then  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Serve  with  a 
soft  custard.  The  pudding  is  to  be  served  hot  and  the 
sauce  cold.  Flavor  the  custard  with  vanilla. 

*  Plain  Rice  Pudding. 

Wash  half  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters,  and  soak 
it  in  cold  water  for  two  hours.  Drain  off  the  water,  and 
add  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  slight  grating  of  nut- 
meg, two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of 
stoned  raisins,  and  one  quart  of  milk.  Cook  in  a  very 
moderate  oven  for  two  hours,  stirring  twice  in  the  first 
half-hour.  At  the  end  of  two  hours  add  half  a  pint  of 
cold  milk ;  stir  well,  and  cook  for  an  hour  longer.  Serve 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

*  Boiled  Rice  Pudding. 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters,  and,  putting  it 
into  a  double-boiler  containing  two  cupfuls  of  cold  water, 
cook  it  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  a  quart  of  milk  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  for  two  hours  longer. 
Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

When  there  are  children  in  the  family  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  put  a  cupful  of  raisins  into  the  cold  water  with 
the  rice.  The  fruit  is  healthful,  and  makes  the  pudding 
more  attractive  and  toothsome. 

*  Minute  Pudding. 

The  materials  are :  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  milk,  half  a  pint  of  sifted  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  two  eggs. 


PUDDINGS.  607 


Put  one  pint  of  the  milk  in  the  double-boiler.  Mix 
the  flour  with  the  half-pint  of  cold  milk.  Beat  the  eggs 
light,  and  add  them  and  the  salt  to  the  flour  and  milk. 
Now  add  one  pint  of  boiling  water  to  the  hot  milk. 
Take  the  inner  boiler  from  the  water,  and  place  it  on  the 
stove.  When  the  milk  and  water  boil  up,  stir  in  the 
mixture  of  flour,  milk,  and  eggs.  Beat  well  for  one 
minute.  Now  return  the  boiler  to  the  water-boiler,  and 
cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Serve  with 
lemon  or  vanilla  sauce. 

*  Bread  Pudding. 

Soak  one  pint  of  stale  bread  in  one  quart  of  cold  milk 
for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  mash  the  bread 
fine.  Beat  together  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  eggs.  Stir  this  into  the 
bread  and  milk.  Pour  the  mixture  into  an  earthen  pud- 
ding-dish, and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour.  Serve  with  a  vanilla  or  cream  sauce. 

*  Chocolate  Pudding. 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of 
stale  bread,  four  eggs,  one  ounce  of  grated  chocolate 
(that  made  by  Walter  Baker  &  Co.,  Boston,  is  excellent 
for  such  purposes),  half  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla  extract,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Soak  the  bread  and  milk  together  for  two  hours  ;  then 
mash  the  bread  fine  by  pressing  it  with  a  spoon  against 
the  side  of  the  bowl.  Put  the  chocolate,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  granulated  sugar,  and  one  table-spoonful 
of  boiling  water  in  a  small  stew-pan,  and  stir  over  a  hot 
fire  until  the  liquid  becomes  smooth  and  glossy.  Now 
take  from  the  fire,  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  bread  and 
milk.  Stir  until  the  mixture  is  thin  and  smooth ;  then 
add  it  to  the  bread  and  milk. 


608          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  one  white  of  the  egg  with  the 
remainder  of  the  granulated  sugar.  Add  this  mixture 
and  the  salt  to  the  bread  and  milk.  Pour  into  a  pud- 
ding-dish, and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  forty  minutes. 

Now  beat  the  three  remaining  whites  to  a  stiff,  dry 
froth,  and  with  a  spoon  beat  into  them  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  vanilla.  Spread 
this  me'ringue  over  the  pudding,  and  cook  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  longer  with  the  oven  door  open.  Serve  qpith 
whipped  cream. 

When  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  cream,  the  me'ringue 
will  suffice  as  a  sauce.  If  a  strong  flavor  of  chocolate 
be  liked,  use  two  ounces  instead  of  one.  This  may  be 
served  cold,  if  so  preferred. 

*  Bride's  Pudding. 

Put  a  quart  of  milk  on  to  heat  in  a  double-boiler. 
Mix  six  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  half  a  cup- 
ful of  cold  milk,  and  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  quart 
of  boiling  milk,  and  cook  for  eight  minutes,  stirring 
occasionally.  Butter  a  pudding-dish,  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  it ;  but  be  careful  to  have  a  space  of  two  inches 
from  the  surface  of  the  mixture  to  the  edge  of  the  dish, 
for  a  me'ringue.  Cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty 
minutes;  then  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty 
minutes  more. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  four  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth, 
and  with  a  spoon  gradually  beat  into  them  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Spread  this  meringue 
over  the  pudding,  and  cook  in  the  oven,  with  the  door 
open,  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  immediately  with  cold 
sauce. 

*  Prune  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  and  its  sauce  there  will  be  required 
five  eggs,  seven  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  a 


PUDDINGS.  609 


quarter  of  a  pound  of  prunes,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream- 
of-tartar,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  and 
put  them  in  a  cold  place  until  it  is  time  to  use  them. 
Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  remainder 
into  the  double-boiler  and  upon  the  stove.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Add  the  cold  milk 
and  then  the  boiling  milk,  and  put  the  mixture  into 
the  double-boiler  to  cook  until  it  begins  to  thicken, — 
say  for  five  minutes,  —  stirring  all  the  while.  As  it  be- 
comes thick,  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  pour  into  a 
bowl  to  cool.  Flavor  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract.  This  is  the  sauce. 

To  make  the  pudding,  wash  the  prunes  carefully,  and 
after  just  covering  them  with  cold  water,  cook  them 
slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Take  them  up  at  the 
end  of  that  time,  and  spread  them  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  and 
when  they  are  cold,  remove  the  stones,  and  cut  each 
prune  into  three  or  four  pieces. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Mix  five 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  with  one-eighth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the  half-teaspoonful  of  cream-of- 
tartar.  Beat  this  mixture  lightly  into  the  beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Butter  a  two-quart  pudding-dish  slightly, 
and  drop  into  it  about  half  the  mixture.  Sprinkle  in 
about  half  of  the  prunes;  then  add  almost  all  the  re- 
mainder of  the  mixture  and  the  rest  of  the  prunes, 
and  finish  by  covering  the  fruit  with  the  small  part  of 
the  mixture  reserved.  Bake  in  a  very  moderate  oven  for 
twenty-two  minutes. 

This  pudding  may  be  served  either  hot  or  cold.  If, 
in  making  some  other  dish,  you  have  any  whites  of 
eggs  left,  you  may  use  them  for  this  pudding,  and 
serve  it  with  whipped  cream  instead  of  the  sauce  given 
above. 

38 


610          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Steamed  Roly-poly  Pudding. 

For  six  persons  use  one  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
and  a  half  of  baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
nearly  a  small  cupful  of  milk,  and  three  pints  of  any 
kind  of  berries. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve. 
Now  rub  the  butter  into  the  mixture.  Add  the  milk, 
and  stir  the  dough  into  a  smooth  ball.  Sprinkle  the 
moulding-board  with  flour ;  then  lay  the  dough  upon  it, 
and  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  one-third  of  an  inch. 
Spread  the  berries  over  the  dough,  keeping  free  of  berries 
a  space  of  about  an  inch  at  the  ends  and  on  one  side. 
Eoll  up  the  dough,  beginning  at  the  side  where  the 
berries  reach  to  the  edge.  Press  together  the  ends  of 
this  roll ;  then  lay  the  roll  in  a  buttered  pan.  Cover 
with  a  napkin,  and  place  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of 
boiling  water.  Steam  for  two  hours.  Serve  with  a  hot, 
rich  sauce. 

Any  kind  of  fruit  may  be  used  for  this  dessert. 

Sponge  Roly-poly. 

Use  one  quart  of  stewed,  sweetened,  and  flavored  fruit, 
three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  of  flour,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon. 

Mix  the  baking-powder  and  flour,  and  rub  the  mixture 
through  a  sieve.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  sugar, 
and  lemon  juice  together ;  then  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  finally  add  the  flour. 
Spread  the  mixture  in  a  large  buttered  pan,  and  bake  in 
a  rather  slow  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  On  taking  from 
the  pan,  cut  off  the  crusty  edges.  Now  spread  the  fruit 
over  the  cake,  and  roll  up  the  cake.  Serve  with  hot 
syrup  flavored  with  fruit  juice  or  wine.  Or  the  pud- 
ding may  be  served  with  plain  or  whipped  cream.  If 
whipped  cream  be  used,  heap  it  around  the  pudding. 


PUDDINGS.  611 


To  Make  the  Syrup.  —  Boil  one  cupful  of  sugar  with 
one  of  water  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  -the  flavor, 
which  may  be  five  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  or  the  juice 
and  rind  of  one  lemon,  or  the  juice  and  rind  of  two 
oranges,  or  half  a  cupful  of  strawberry  or  raspberry 
juice.  Any  of  these  flavors  will  go  well  with  almost 
any  fruit. 

*  Boiled  Cherry  Pudding. 

This  is  made  of  two  quarts  of  stoned  cherries,  three 
eggs,  one  pint  and  a  half  of  stale  bread,  one  pint  of  milk, 
one  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  of  baking- 
powder,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  one-fourth  of  a 
nutmeg. 

Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk  for  an  hour.  Mix  the 
sugar,  salt,  and  baking-powder  with  the  flour,  and  after 
grating  the  nutmeg  over  the  mixture,  sift  all  into  the 
bowl  containing  the  bread  and  milk.  Now  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  finally  the  cherries. 

Dip  the  pudding-cloth  in  boiling  water,  and  then  spread 
it  in  a  deep  pudding-dish.  Dredge  it  well  with  flour,  and 
then  pour  the  batter  upon  it.  Draw  the  cloth  together, 
and  tie  it  tight.  Have  a  tin  plate  at  the  bottom  of  a 
large  pot  that  is  half  filled  with  boiling  water.  Drop 
the  pudding  into  this  pot,  and  boil  it  constantly  for  two 
hours.  If  the  water  boils  away,  add  boiling  water  from 
the  tea-kettle. 

When  the  pudding  is  done,  lift  it  from  the  pot  and 
plunge  it  into  cold  water,  removing  it  immediately ;  then 
open  the  cloth  and  turn  out  the  pudding.  Serve  at  once 
with  hot  rich  sauce. 

The  pudding  may  be  steamed,  if  convenient.  In  this 
case  butter  the  pudding-tin  thoroughly,  and  allow  space 
for  the  pudding  to  increase  one-third  in  size.  Steam 
for  two  hours  and  a  half. 

Stoning  the  cherries  may  rob  them  of  some  of  their 
flavor,  and  the  stoning  is  not  absolutely  necegsary. 


612          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Peach-and-Rice  Pudding. 

The  materials  needed  are :  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  two 
cupfuls  and  a  half  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  of 
water,  a  dozen  large  peaches,  and  a  scant  half-teaspoonf ul 
of  salt. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  soak  it  for  two  hours  in  cold  water ; 
then  drain  off  the  water,  and  put  the  rice  and  milk  in 
the  double-boiler,  to  cook  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  stir  in  the  salt,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour 
longer. 

When  the  rice  has  been  cooking  for  an  hour  and  a  half, 
put  the  peaches  in  a  wire  basket  and  plunge  them  into 
boiling  water  for  two  minutes.  On  taking  them  out,  rub 
off  the  skins,  and  cut  the  fruit  in  halves. 

Break  six  of  the  peach  stones,  and,  putting  them  in 
a  stew-pan  with  the  sugar  and  water,  simmer  for  half 
an  hour.  Now  take  out  the  stones,  and  put  the  fruit  in 
the  syrup.  Simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Take  up 
the  rice,  when  the  quarter-hour  has  passed,  and  spread  half 
of  it  on  a  flat  dish,  having  the  layer  about  half  an  inch 
thick.  Save  fifteen  of  the  best  halves  of  the  peaches, 
and  spread  four  of  the  remaining  pieces  on  the  rice.  Put 
another  layer  of  rice  on  top  of  the  fruit,  having  the 
mound  taper.  On  top  of  this  layer  put  four  more  pieces 
of  peach,  and  then  cover  with  the  remaining  rice,  which 
should  be  heaped  to  a  point  at  the  top.  Cap  with  half 
a  peach.  Arrange  the  fifteen  reserved  pieces  around  the 
base  of  the  mound.  Pour  the  syrup  into  a  sauce-boat, 
and  serve  it  with  the  pudding.  The  juice  of  an  orange, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  or  one  table-spoonful  of 
maraschino  may  be  added  to  the  syrup. 

Another  way  of  serving  this  dish  is  to  pour  the  syrup 
over  the  peaches  as  they  are  arranged  on  the  rice,  and 
serve  cream  with  the  pudding. 

This  may  be  served  cold,  if  so  preferred. 

& 


PUDDINGS.  613 


*  Peach-and-Tapioca  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  there  will  be  required  one  can  of 
peaches,  a  generous  half-pint  of  tapioca,  three-fourths 
of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonf ul  of  salt,  and  one 
quart  of  water. 

Soak  the  tapioca  over  night  in  the  cold  water.  In  the 
morning  turn  it,  with  the  water,  into  a  double-boiler,  and 
cook  for  one  hour.  On  removing  from  the  stove,  add 
the  salt,  sugar,  and  juice  of  the  peaches,  and  stir  thor- 
oughly. Pour  a  layer  of  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered 
pudding-dish;  then  lay  in  the  peaches,  and  pour  over 
the  fruit  the  remainder  of  the  tapioca.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erately hot  oven  for  one  hour.  Cool  it  a  little,  and  serve 
with  sugar  and  cream. 

• 
*  Boiled  Sago  or  Tapioca   Pudding. 

Wash  a  cupful  of  sago  or  tapioca,  and  soak  it  over 
night  in  two  cupfuls  of  cold  water.  In  the  morning 
pour  off  the  water,  and  put  the  tapioca  into  the  double- 
boiler.  Add  a  generous  quart  of  milk  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Cook  for  an  hour,  and  serve  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

*  Steamed  Berry   Pudding. 

To  make  enough  pudding  for  six  or  eight  persons  one 
requires  a  pint  of  milk,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  blueberries  or  blackberries,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and 
an  egg. 

Mix  the  salt  and  baking-powder  with  the  flour,  and 
rub  through  a  sieve.  Add  the  milk,  the  egg,  well  beaten, 
and  then  the  berries.  Pour  the  batter  into  a  buttered 
tin  mould  or  basin,  —  one  that  will  hold  more  than  two 
quarts,  —  and  steam  for  two  hours.  Serve  with  hard 
sauce  or  any  rich  liquid  sauce. 


614          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Blueberry   Pudding. 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  berries,  one  quart  of 
milk,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  stale  bread,  two  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  grated,  and 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  bread  and  milk  for  two  hours;  then  break 
up  the  bread  with  a  spoon.  Beat  the  eggs,  salt,  sugar, 
and  nutmeg  together.  Add  this  mixture  to  the  bread 
and  milk.  Stir  well,  and  then  add  the  berries.  Turn 
into  a  pudding-dish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  fifty 
minutes.  Serve  with  a  creamy  or  foaming  sauce. 

*  Baked   Berry  Pudding. 

The  materials  needed  are :  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of 
flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  one  quart 
of  berries,  —  blueberries  or  blackberries. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Mix  the  flour  and  baking- 
powder.  Add  the  milk  to  the  sugar  and  butter;  then 
stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the  beaten  whites  ;  finally  add 
the  berries.  Pour  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  that  will 
hold  nearly  three  quarts.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  serve  with  a  hot  sauce. 

By  some  people  the  addition  of  a  little  nutmeg  may 
be  considered  as  an  improvement. 

*  Batter  Berry  Pudding. 

This  is  not  so  rich  a  pudding  as  that  just  described, 
but  it  is  very  nice.  It  is  made  of  a  pint  of  milk,  one 
pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  quart  of  berries,  four  eggs,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg, 
grated. 


PUDDINGS.  615 


Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  then  add 
the  yolks,  and  beat  for  a  minute  longer.  Add  the  milk 
to  this  mixture,  and  gradually  pour  the  liquid  upon  the 
flour.  Add  the  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  beat  vigorously. 
Add  the  berries,  and  after  pouring  the  batter  into  a  but- 
tered pudding-dish,  bake  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 
This  pudding  must  be  served  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from 
the  oven.  A  rich  sauce  should  be  provided  with  it. 

*  Steamed  Black   Pudding. 

Boil  together  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes  a  quart  of 
blueberries,  a  pint  of  water,  and  half  a  pint  of  sugar. 
Meanwhile  cut  a  small  loaf  of  baker's  bread  in  thin  slices, 
and  butter  these  lightly.  Put  a  layer  of  the  bread  into 
a  deep  pudding-dish,  and  cover  it  with  some  of  the  hot 
berries ;  and  continue  making  layers  until  all  the  mate- 
rials have  been  used.  The  last  layer  should  be  of  ber- 
ries. Steam  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  and  serve  with  hot 
sauce. 

Blackberries  may  be  substituted  for  blueberries. 

*  Medford  Berry  Pudding. 

Use  one  quart  of  blueberries,  one  cupful  of  molasses, 
two  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  water,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water,  and  stir  this  liquid  and 
the  salt  into  the  molasses.  Mix  the  flour  and  berries, 
and  stir  into  the  molasses.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  tin  pudding-mould,  and  steam  for  three  hours 
and  a  half.  Serve  with  a  cold  sauce  or  any  hot  liquid 
sauce. 

Any  kind  of  berries  may  be  used  with  this  pudding, 
and  when  berries  are  not  in  season,  two  quarts  of  apples, 
pared,  and  chopped  fine,  may  be  substituted. 


616          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Baked  Apple  Pudding. 

Put  into  a  chopping-tray  a  quart  of  flour,  a  cupful  of 
butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  and  chop  lightly,  in  a  cool  place.  When  the 
butter  and  flour  have  become  well  mixed,  add  a  little 
more  than  half  a  cupful  of  ice-water.  Mix  the  ingre- 
dients lightly,  and  place  in  the  ice-chest  until  the  time  for 
completing  the  work.  The  paste  may  be  used  at  once, 
but  will  be  better  if  first  chilled.  The  hands'  must  not 
touch  it  during  the  making,  and  care  must  be  taken  to 
prevent  the  butter  and  flour  from  becoming  warm  or 
sticky  during  the  chopping. 

Butter  a  deep  earthen  dish  that  will  hold  about  three 
quarts,  and  line  the  sides  with  strips  of  the  paste.  Now 
fill  the  dish  with  pared  and  quartered  apples.  Sprinkle 
a  cupful  of  sugar  and  grate  half  a  nutmeg  over  the  fruit, 
and  pour  a  cupful  of  cold  water  over  it.  A  table-spoon- 
ful of  cinnamon  and  two  of  butter  may  be  added,  if  you 
choose.  Eoll  the  remaining  paste  into  a  round  sheet 
large  enough  to  cover  the  dish.  Place  this  carefully  over 
the  dish,  pressing  the  edges  against  the  lining  at  the 
sides.  Bake  the  pudding  slowly  for  three  hours,  and 
serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

*  Steamed  Apple  Pudding. 

This  is  the  list  of  ingredients  :  one  quart  of  flour,  two 
heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  sugar,  a 
scant  pint  of  milk,  two  quarts  of  pared  and  quartered 
apples,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Mix  the  flour,  salt,  baking-powder,  and  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  the  sugar,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Now  rub  the 
butter  into  the  mixture,  and  then  wet  the  mixture  with 
the  milk.  Butter  a  mould  that  holds  about  three  quarts. 
Roll  rather  thin  enough  of  the  dough  to  cover  the  bottom 


PUDDINGS.  617 


and  sides  of  the  mould.  Lay  the  apples  in  the  mould, 
and  after  sprinkling  them  with  the  two  remaining  spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  grate  over  them  about  one-third  of  a 
nutmeg. 

Now  roll  the  rest  of  the  dough  into  a  piece  large 
enough  to  cover  the  top  of  the  mould,  bringing  the  edges 
of  the  paste  together.  Butter  well  the  cover  of  the 
mould  and  put  it  in  its  place.  Steam  the  pudding  for 
two  hours  and  a  half ;  then  turn  out  on  a  dish  and  serve 
with  a  sauce  made  as  follows :  — 

Sauce. — Use  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  of  water,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  corn-starch,  the  grated 
rind  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  one-third  of  a  nut- 
meg, grated. 

Mix  the  corn-starch  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
cupful  of  water,  and  put  the  rest  of  the  water  on  the 
stove  in  a  small  stew-pan.  When  the  water  begins  to 
boil,  stir  in  the  corn-starch,  and  continue  the  boiling  for 
ten  minutes ;  then  add  the  sugar,  lemon,  and  nutmeg, 
and  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  the  butter  at  the 
end  of  that  time,  and  cook  five  minutes  longer. 

*  Rolled  Apple  Pudding. 

In  making  this  pudding  there  must  be  taken  a  pint  of 
unsifted  flour,  three  pints  of  pared  and  chopped  apples, 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  cupful  of  milk. 

Mix  well  in  a  sieve,  and  then  rub  through  it,  the  flour, 
salt,  baking-powder,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar. 
Rub  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  into  this  mixture,  and 
then  stir  in  the  milk.  When  a  smooth  dough  has  been 
formed,  sprinkle  a  moulding-board  lightly  with  flour  and 
turn  the  ball  of  dough  upon  it.  Roll  down  to  the  thick- 
ness of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Spread  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  on  the  dough,  and  sprinkle  one-third 


618          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  a  cupful  of  sugar  over  it.  Now  spread  the  chopped 
apple  upon  the  dough ;  and  after  grating  the  nutmeg 
over  it,  sprinkle  it  with  the  remainder  of  the  sugar.  Roll 
up  the  same  as  jelly  cake,  and  cut  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  long.  Spread  the  remaining  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter  on  the  bottom  of  a  cake-pan.  Place  the 
pieces  of  the  roll  on  end  in  the  pan,  and  bake  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

*  Layer  Apple  Pudding. 

To  make  this  pudding  one  needs  two  quarts  of  sliced 
apples,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of 
water,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one-third  of  a  nut- 
meg, and  seven  large  slices  of  stale  bread. 

Soften  the  butter,  that  it  may  be  easily  spread.  Soak 
the  bread  in  cold  water  until  it  is  soft ;  one  minute  prob- 
ably will  be  sufficient  time  if  the  slices  be  stale  and  light. 
Set  out  a  pudding-dish  that  holds  about  three  quarts. 
Butter  the  bread,  and  put  a  layer  on  the  bottom  of  the 
dish.  Spread  upon  it  half  of  the  apple,  and  sprinkle  the 
fruit  with  half  of  the  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Now  make  a 
second  layer  of  bread,  and  cover  it  with  the  remaining 
apple,  —  sprinkling  with  sugar  and  nutmeg,  as  before. 
Pour  the  water  into  the  dish  by  spoonfuls.  Cover  with 
a  large  plate,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  two  hours  and 
a  half. 

This  may  be  served  hot  or  cold.  Cream  is  a  fit  ac- 
companiment. 

*  Canadian  Apple  Pudding. 

This  is  a  simple  pudding,  being  made  of  a  pint  of  flour, 
a  cupful  of  milk,  one  egg,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  table-spoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
half  a  cupful  of  water,  two  quarts  of  pared  and  quartered 
apples,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  about  one-fifth  of 
a  nutmeg, 


PUDDINGS,  619 


Put  the  apples,  sugar,  —  reserving  two  table-spoonfuls, 
however,  —  nutmeg,  and  water  into  a  deep  pudding-dish. 
Place  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Mix  well 
in  a  sieve,  and  then  rub  through  it,  the  flour,  baking- 
powder,  salt,  and  the  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Add 
the  milk  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  stir  with  a  spoon 
until  a  smooth  dough  is  formed ;  then  add  the  butter, 
melted.  Eemove  the  dish  from  the  oven,  and  spread 
the  batter  on  top  of  the  apples.  Return  the  pudding  to 
the  oven,  and  after  increasing  the  heat,  bake  for  twenty 
minutes.  At  serving-time  turn  the  pudding  out  on  a  flat 
dish,  having  the  crust  underneath  and  the  apple  on  top. 
Or  the  pudding  may  be  served  with  the  crust  on  top,  in 
the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  Serve  with  nutmeg  or 
lemon  sauce. 

*  Stewed  Apple  Pudding. 

The  materials  needed  are :  two  quarts  of  pared  and 
quartered  tart  apples,  half  a  pint  of  water,  a  slight  grat- 
ing of  nutmeg,  one  pint  of  flour,  two  scant  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  scant  teacupful  of  milk. 

Put  the  apples,  water,  and  nutmeg  in  a  large  flat- 
bottomed  stew-pan,  and  place  on  the  fire,  to  heat  slowly. 
Mix  the  dry  ingredients  with  the  flour,  and  rub  through 
a  sieve.  Stir  the  milk  into  this  mixture,  and  mix  quickly. 
See  that  the  apples  are  boiling ;  then  roll  the  dough  down 
to  the  size  of  the  cover  of  the  stew-pan.  Lay  this  over  the 
boiling  apples.  Cover  the  pan  closely,  and  draw  it  back 
where  the  contents  will  not  boil  quite  so  hard.  Cook  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Slip  a  broad  skimmer  under  the 
cooked  crust,  and  lift  it  quickly  to  a  dish.  Pour  the 
apple  into  a  large  dish,  and  place  the  crust  on  top. 
Serve  with  molasses  sauce.  If,  however,  molasses  sauce 
be  not  liked,  use  any  sweet  sauce  you  please. ' 

For  a  change,  add  a  table- spoonful  bf  butter  and  a 


620          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


cupful  of  sugar  to  the  apples  when  they  are  put  on  to 
cook.  In  this  case  serve  cream  instead  of  sauce  with  the 
pudding. 

*  Baked  Apple  Dumplings. 

For  eight  dumplings  use  the  same  number  of  large  tart 
apples,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  butter,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  about 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  piece  of  soda  about  the  size  of  a  pea. 

Put  the  flour,  salt,  sugar,  and  butter  in  the  chopping- 
tray,  and  chop  until  the  butter  is  cut  into  bits  about  the 
size  of  a  bean.  Be  rather  scant  in  the  measurement  of 
the  water.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  it ;  then  add  the  lemon 
juice,  and  pour  the  liquid  upon  the  mixture  in  the  chop- 
ping-tray,  chopping  and  mixing  all  the  time.  When  the 
mixture  becomes  a  smooth  paste,  sprinkle  the  moulding- 
board  lightly  with  flour,  and  turn  the  paste  from  the 
tray  upon  the  board.  Koll  it  down  to  the  thickness  of 
about  half  an  inch ;  then  fold,  and  roll  again,  using  as 
little  flour  as  possible.  Now  put  in  a  cold  place,  —  if 
possible,  on  ice. 

Pare  and  core  the  apples.  Grate  a  little  nutmeg  in 
the  centre  of  each  apple.  Now  cut  off  one-eighth  of  the 
paste,  and-  roll  it  into  a  round  large  enough  to  cover  an 
apple.  Place  an  apple  in  the  centre  of  this  paste  ;  then 
gather  up  the  edges  and  press  them  together.  Cover  all 
the  apples  in  this  manner. 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  shallow  cake-pan,  and  place  the 
dumplings  in  it,  having  the  side  where  the  paste  was 
drawn  together  come  underneath.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  forty  minutes.  Serve  with  lemon  cream  sauce. 

*  Apple  Custard  Pudding. 

The  materials  needed  are  :  a  quart  of  pared  and  quar- 
tered apples,  two  cupfuls  of  grated  bread  crumbs,  a  gen- 
erous half-cupful  of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 


PUDDINGS.  621 


two  of  butter,  two  eggs,  a  lemon,  and  half  a  cupful  of 
water. 

Put  the  apples  and  water  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cook 
until  the  apples  will  mash  easily;  then  remove  from 
the  fire,  and  add  the  sugar,  butter,  and  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  the  lemon.  Mix  the  flour  with  the  bread 
crumbs,  and  stir  into  the  mixture.  Beat  the  eggs  until 
they  are  light,  and  add  them  to  the  other  ingredients. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  with  hard 
sauce  or  with  sugar  and  cream. 

*  Apple  Duff. 

Pare  and  quarter  a  dozen  large  tart  apples,  and  put 
them  into  a  kettle  with  a  cupful  of  molasses,  — or  sugar, 
if  you  prefer,  —  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon,  and  a  pint  of  water.  Heat  to  the 
boiling-point,  and  meanwhile  make  a  paste  with  a  pint 
of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a  small  cupful  of  milk.  Mix  the  dry  in- 
gredients, and  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Stir  the  milk 
into  the  mixture,  and  (using  a  spoon)  stir  the  dough  into 
the  form  of  a  smooth  ball.  This  work  must  be  done 
rapidly.  After  sprinkling  the  bread-board  with  flour, 
turn  the  dough  upon  it,  and  roll  down  to  a  size  just 
large  enough  to  fit  into  the  kettle  containing  the  apples. 
When  the  contents  of  this  kettle  begin  to  boil,  put  in  the 
paste.  Cover  tightly,  and  boil  gently  for  twenty  min- 
utes. At  the  end  of  that  time  remove  the  paste  with 
a  broad  skimmer.  Pour  the  stewed  apple  into  a  large 

dish,  and  lay  the  paste  over  it. 

• 

*  Apple-and-Rice  Pudding. 

Put  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  into  two  generous  cupfuls  of 
water,  and  boil  a  cupful  of  rice  in  the  water  for  a  quarter 


622          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  an  hour.  Butter  a  pudding-cloth,  and  spread  the  rice 
on  it.  Put  two  quarts  of  pared  and  quartered  apples 
in  the  centre  of  the  rice.  Gather  up  the  ends  of  the 
pudding-cloth,  and  tie  them  tightly.  Plunge  the  pudding 
into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water.  Cook  for  an  hour,  and 
serve  with  hot  molasses  or  sugar  sauce. 

*  Apple-and-Bread  Pudding. 

Another  apple  pudding  can  be  made  by  dipping  eight 
thick  slices  of  stale  bread  in  cold  water ;  buttering  them  ; 
lining  the  sides  of  a  buttered  two-quart  dish  with  the 
bread ;  filling  the  dish  with  sliced  apples ;  sprinkling  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon, 
and  half  a  cupful  of  water  into  the  dish ;  covering  the 
dish  with  a  large  plate,  and  baking  in  a  very  moderate 
oven  for  three  hours.  Let  it  cool  for  half  an  hour  ;  then 
turn  out  on  a  warm  dish,  and  serve  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

*  Brown  Betty  Pudding. 

Take  for  this  pudding  a  cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs, 
two  cupfuls  of  fine-chopped  tart  apples,  half  a  cupful  of 
brown  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  cut  into  bits. 

Butter  a  deep  pudding-dish,  and  put  a  layer  of  apples 
on  the  bottom  ;  then  sprinkle  with  sugar,  cinnamon,  and 
butter,  and  cover  with  bread  crumbs.  Put  in  another 
layer  of  apple,  and  proceed  as  before  until  all  the  in- 
gredients have  been  used,  having  a  layer  of  crumbs  last. 
Cover  the  dish,  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in 
a  moderate  oven  ;  then  remove  the  cover,  and  brown  the 
top  of  the  pudding.  Pin  a  napkin  around  the  dish. 
Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Brown  Cap  Pudding. 

For  a  pudding  sufficiently  large  for  six  persons  use 
these  materials :  one  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  half  a 


PUDDINGS.  623 


cupful  of  flour,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  light,  and  add  to 
them  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk.  Pour  this  mixture  on 
the  flour,  and  beat  to  a  smooth  paste.  Now  add  the 
remainder  of  the  milk,  and  the  salt.  Beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  them  also.  Sift  the 
baking-powder  over  the  mixture,  and  then  beat  thor- 
oughly. Pour  the  batter  into  a  buttered  dish  that  holds 
about  two  quarts,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an 
hour.  .  Serve  with  brown  cap  sauce. 

Sponge  Batter  Pudding. 

This  is  a  delicate  pudding,  especially  nice  when  accom- 
panied with  cream  sauce.  Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  on  to 
heat  in  a  double-boiler,  and  meanwhile  mix  another  half- 
pint  with  a  generous  half-cupful  of  flour,  making  a  smooth 
paste.  Put  this  paste  into  the  kettle  when  the  clear  milk 
begins  to  boil,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  is  smooth ;  then 
cook  for  four  minutes,  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Add 
three  level  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  let 
the  pudding  cool  slightly.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  three 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Carefully 
butter  a  pudding-dish  holding  about  five  pints,  and  pour 
the  mixture  into  it.  Set  into  a  large  pan,  and  pour 
about  it  hot  water  enough  to  come  half-way  up  the  sides 
of  the  dish.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  half  an  hour,  and 
serve  without  delay. 

Steamed  Batter  Pudding. 

This  requires  a  pint  of  milk,  a  cupful  of  flour,  four 
eggs,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

The  first  step  is  to  butter  a  plain  tin  mould  that  can 
be  closely  covered.  It  is  well  to  use  a  melon  mould,  if 


624          MISS  PAELOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

you  have  one.  Next  fill  a  pot  with  boiling  water,  and 
set  a  steamer  over  it.  Beat  the  eggs  till  very  light,  and 
add  the  inilk  to  them.  After  sprinkling  the  flour  with 
the  salt,  pour  half  of  this  egg  mixture  upon  it ;  and 
after  beating  until  smooth  and  light,  pour  upon  it  the 
remainder  of  the  egg  mixture.  Pour  the  batter  into  the 
buttered  mould,  and  after  covering  the  mould,  set  it  in 
the  steamer.  Cook  the  pudding  for  one  hour  and  ten 
minutes,  and  after  gently  turning  out  upon  a  warm  dish, 
serve  with  foaming  or  creamy  sauce,  or  any  other  rich 
sauce. 

*  Cottage  Pudding. 

After  rubbing  together  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  add  two  eggs ;  and  after  beating  the 
mixture  until  light,  add  a  cupful  of  milk.  Mix  well  in 
a  sieve  a  pint  of  sifted  flour  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  rub  through  the  sieve  so  that  this 
mixture  shall  fall  upon  that  already  made.  Beat  quickly, 
and  pour  the  batter  into  one  large  pudding-dish,  or  two 
small  ones.  Sprinkle  with  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  forty  minutes,  if  there  be  only  one  dish,  or 
thirty,  if  there  be  two.  Serve  hot  with  lemon  sauce  or 
any  sweet  sauce. 

*  Steamed  Cottage  Pudding. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  two  cupfuls  of  sifted 
flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  eggs, 
one  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  one-fourth  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 

Mix  the  butter  and  sugar;  then  add  the  unbeaten 
eggs,  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it  becomes  light.  Now 
add  the  nutmeg  and  milk,  and  finally  the  flour,  in  which 
the  baking-powder  has  been  mixed.  Pour  this  batter 
into  a  well-buttered  two-quart  mould.  Have  the  inside 
of  the  cover  also  buttered,  and  place  the  cover  on  the 


PUDDINGS.  625 


mould.  Set  in  a  steamer  over  a  pot  of  boiling  water, 
and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Turn  out  on  a 
warm  dish,  and  serve  with  strawberry  sauce. 

*  Graham  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  one  needs  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
graham,  one  cupful  of  milk,  half  a  cupful  of  molasses, 
one  cupful  of  chopped  raisins,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Sift  the  graham  in  order  to  make  it  light,  but  return 
the  bran  to  the  sifted  mixture.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  one 
table-spoonful  of  the  milk,  and  add  the"  remainder  of 
the  milk,  the  molasses,  and  the  salt.  Pour  this  mixture 
upon  the  graham,  and  beat  well.  Add  the  raisins,  and 
pour  the  pudding  into  a  two-quart  pan.  Steam  for  four 
hours  ;  then  turn  out  and  serve  with  golden  sauce. 

*  Feather  Pudding. 

The  materials  used  are :  two  level  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  scant  cupfuls 
of  sifted  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  the  sugar,  butter,  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  until 
light ;  then  add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
afterward  the  flour  and  milk.  Mix  the  sifted  flour  and 
the  baking-powder,  and  sift  into  the  bowl  containing 
the  other  ingredients.  Beat  thoroughly  and  quickly, 
and  pour  into  a  buttered  deep  round  pan  that  will  hold 
about  three  quarts.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  forty 
minutes.  When  done,  turn  out  on  a  large  plate  or  dish, 
and  serve  with  chocolate  sauce. 

*  Sponge  Pudding. 

After  beating  three  eggs  until  very  light,  add  to  them 
a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  beat  again  with  a 


626          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

spoon  until  light  and  frothy;  then  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  (half  the  grated  rind,  too,  if  you  like  a  strong 
flavor),  and  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Mix  two  cup- 
fuls  of  sifted  flour  with  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of 
baking-powder,  and  stir  into  the  first  mixture.  Beat 
quickly  and  well.  Bake  in  two  deep  round  pans  for 
half  an  hour,  and  serve  with  vanilla  or  lemon  sauce  or 
any  other  liquid  sauce. 

If  new-process  flour  be  used,  your  measure  of  flour 
must  be  rather  scant. 


German  Puffs. 

These  are  very  nice  for  dessert.  To  make  them  one 
must  take  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk, 
two  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar,  and  the  rind 
and  juice  of  two  oranges. 

After  grating  the  rind  of  the  oranges  very  lightly, 
squeeze  the  juice  upon  it.  Set  away  until  the  time  for 
making  a  sauce  for  the  puffs. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  into 
it  the  granulated  sugar.  When  the  mixture  is  light 
and  creamy,  add  the  unbeaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Beat 
vigorously ;  then  add  the  milk  and  finally  the  flour,  with 
the  soda  and  cream-of-tartar  mixed  with  it.  Bake  for 
twenty  minutes  in  well-buttered  muffin-pans. 

Meanwhile  make  the  sauce.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
three  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  gradually  beat  into 
this  froth  the  powdered  sugar.  Add  the  orange  juice 
and  rind,  and  the  work  will  be  completed. 

Turn  the  puffs  out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  them.  Serve  immediately.  If  you  prefer,  a  lemon 
may  be  substituted  for  the  two  oranges.  It  must,  of 
course,  be  treated  like  them. 


PUDDINGS.  627 


Queen  Puffs. 

These  are  made  of  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  one 
cupful  of  water,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  six  eggs,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon. 

Put  the  butter,  sugar,  water,  and  lemon  rind  on  the 
fire  in  a  large  saucepan.  When  these  ingredients  begin 
to  boil,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  vigorously  until  the  mix- 
ture is  smooth  and  soft  to  the  touch.  About  three 
minutes'  stirring  will  be  needed.  On  taking  from  the 
fire,  turn  into  a  large  bowl  and  set  away  to  cool.  When 
the  mixture  becomes  cool,  break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl. 
Add  half  the  eggs  to  the  cooked  mixture,  and  beat  with 
the  hand.  When  the  two  parts  get  well  mixed,  add  the 
remainder  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes. 

Butter  a  large  baking-pan  lightly.  Drop  the  dough 
into  the  pan  by  table-spoonfuls,  having  the  spoonfuls 
about  an  inch  apart.  Bake  the  puffs  in  a  quick  oven 
for  half  an  hour.  Serve  hot  with  strawberry  sauce  or 
any  clear  sauce. 

Snowballs. 

Snowballs  are  made  of  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  scant  cupful  of  sifted  flour,  one  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  baking-powder,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  water, 
the  grated  yellow  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  lemon  juice. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until 
light,  and  beat  the  whit'es  to  a  stiff  froth  in  another  bowl. 
Now  beat  the  water,  lemon  rind,  and  juice  into  the  yolks 
and  sugar ;  then  add  the  beaten  whites,  and  finally  the 
flour  and  baking-powder,  mixed.  Stir  quickly  and  well. 
Pour  this  batter  into  fifteen  little  stone  or  earthen  cups 
that  have  been  well  buttered,  and  cook  in  a  steamer  for 
half  an  hour.  Have  three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar  on  a  plate,  and  when  the  snowballs  are  done,  turn 


628          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

them  out  of  the  cups  upon  this  plate,  and  roll  them  iii 
the  sugar.     Serve  at  once  with  hot  clear  wine  sauce. 

*  Baked  Indian  Pudding. 

Pour  a  quart  of  boiling  milk  gradually  upon  a  cupful 
of  Indian  meal,  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it  is  per- 
fectly smooth;  then  put  it  into  the  double-boiler  and 
cook  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  frequently.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  and  add  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  mo- 
lasses, two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  quart  of  cold 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  well-beaten  egg. 
Pour  the  pudding  into  a  deep  earthen  dish,  and  bake 
slowly  for  four  hours.  Serve  with  or  without  cream  ; 
at  any  rate,  serve  hot.  It  is  especially  nice  served  with 
vanilla  ice-cream. 


*  For  this  pudding  use  three  quarts  and  a  pint  of  milk, 
a  generous  half-teacupful  of  butter,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  Indian  meal,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  molasses,  one 
table-spoonful  of  ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Scald  one  pint  of  the  milk.  Wet  the  meal  with  a 
little  cold  milk.  Stir  the  boiling  milk  into  it.  Add  the 
butter,  molasses,  salt,  and  spice.  Pour  this  into  a  large 
dish,  and  put  it  into  the  oven.  As  soon  as  the  pudding 
begins  to  thicken,  stir  in  thoroughly  one  quart  of  cold 
milk.  Add  the  other  two  quarts,  a  pint  at  a  time,  when 
the  pudding  thickens  and  becomes  crusted,  and  stir  all 
up  from  the  bottom  each  time.  .Bake  from  four  to  six 
hours.  Serve  with  maple  sugar  dissolved  in  cream,  or 
with  hard  sauce.  —  Rose  Terry  Cooke. 

Brown  Pudding. 

Use  for  this  pudding  a  cupful  of  milk,  one  of  molasses, 
one  of  fine-chopped  suet,  three  cupfuls  and  a  quarter  of 
flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 


PUDDINGS.  629 


the  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon,  one  table-spoonful  of  cinna- 
mon, and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  clove. 

Mix  the  molasses,  suet,  lemon,  and  spice.  Dissolve 
the  soda  in  the  milk,  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Stir  well, 
and  then  add  the  flour.  When  the  mixture  has  been 
beaten  well,  turn  it  into  well-buttered  moulds,  and  steam 
for  five  hours.  With  the  ingredients  mentioned  above,  a 
three-quart  mould  may  be  filled ;  but  if  the  family  be 
not  a  large  one,  it  will  be  well  to  steam  the  pudding  in 
two  moulds,  using  the  contents  of  one  on  the  first  day 
and  those  of  the  second  mould  five  or  six  days  later  ;  or 
half  the  mixture  may  be  put  into  a  small  mould,  and  to 
the  remainder  may  be  added  half  a  cupful  of  currants, 
thus  giving  a  rich  fruit-pudding  later  in  the  week. 
These  puddings  are  always  better  the  second  than  the 
first  day.  Brown-bread  tins  are  good  moulds  in  which 
to  steam  them,  if  there  be  no  regular  pudding-moulds  in 
the  house.  A  rich  wine  or  a  lemon  sauce  should  be  served 
with  the  pudding. 

*  Quaking  Pudding. 

The  materials  required  are  :  a  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  quart  of  stale  bread, 
cut  in  very  thin  slices,  half  a  cupful  of  dried  currants, 
one  pint  of  stoned  raisins,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  one-fourth  of  a  nut- 
meg,  grated. 

Measure  the  bread  after  it  has  been  cut,  and  pack  it 
rather  solidly  in  a  quart  measure.  Butter  a  three-quart 
mould  very  thoroughly,  and  after  sprinkling  the  bottom 
and  sides  with  the  currants,  lay  the  bread  in  the  mould 
in  layers,  sprinkling  raisins  over  each  layer.  Beat  to- 
gether the  eggs,  sugar,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  then  add  the 
milk.  Pour  this  mixture  over  that  in  the  mould.  Set 
away  in  a  cold  place  for  three  hours,  and  at  the  end  of 
that  time  set  the  pudding  in  a  steamer,  and  cook  it  for 


630          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

an  hour  and   a  quarter.     At  serving-time  turn  out  on  a 
flat  dish,  and  serve  with  a  vanilla  or  rich  wine  sauce. 

This  pudding  can  be  made  with  four  eggs,  and  the 
currants  may  be  omitted. 

Delicate  Plum  Pudding. 

A  pudding  for  eight  or  ten  persons  will  require  a  cup- 
ful and  a  half  of  powdered  crackers,  two  pints  and  a 
half  of  milk,  one  generous  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful 
of  molasses,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  cupful  of 
stoned  raisins,  one- third  of  a  nutmeg,  grated,  and  six  eggs. 

Heat  the  milk  to  the  boiling-point,  and  pour  it  on  the 
crackers.  Add  the  butter,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When 
the  mixture  is  cold,  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the 
other  ingredients.  Butter  a  pudding-dish  that  will  hold 
about  two  quarts.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  dish,  and 
place  in  a  moderate  oven. 

When  the  pudding  has  been  cooking  for  half  an  hour, 
draw  it  to  the  front  of  the  oven  and  stir  it  well,  being 
careful  to  distribute  the  raisins  (which  will  have  settled 
to  the  bottom)  through  the  pudding.  Move  the  dish 
back  into  the  oven,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
longer.  The  heat  in  the  oven  must  be  very  moderate  or 
the  pudding  will  burn.  Serve  with  a  creamy  sauce. 

Plum  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  there  will  be  required  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  suet,  chopped  fine,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
pound  of  grated  stale  bread,  one  pound  of  stoned  raisins, 
one  pound  of  currants,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  a  gill  of 
brandy,  a  nutmeg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  the  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  nine  eggs. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  except  the  eggs,  which  should 
be  beaten  until  light,  and  then  added.  Carefully  butter 
two  two-quart  melon  moulds,  and  pour  the  mixture  into 


PUDDINGS.  631 


them.  Steam  for  five  hours.  At  serving-time  turn  out 
on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  half  a  gill  of  brandy  or  rum  over 
the  puddings.  Stick  a  twig  of  holly  into  the  top  of  each, 
and  as  the  dishes  are  on  the  way  to  the  table,  say  just 
at  the  dining-room  door,  set  fire  to  the  liquor,  so  that 
the  puddings  may  be  brought  in  blazing.  Serve  with 
brandy  sauce. 

This  kind  of  pudding  may  be  made  several  weeks 
before  using.  If  it  be  made  in  advance,  it  should  be 
steamed  for  an  hour  and  a  half  on  the  day  on  which  it  is 
to  form  a  part  of  the  dinner. 

French  Pancakes. 

The  ingredients  of  these  cakes  are  :  eight  eggs,  one  pint 
of  milk,  half  a  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  and  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon. 

Put  in  a  bowl  the  flour,  sugar,  salt,  and  grated  rind. 
Separate  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  from  the  whites,  and  beat 
the  latter  to  a  stiff  froth.  Now  add  the  yolks,  and  beat 
for  a  minute  longer.  Add  the  milk  to  the  eggs.  Next 
pour  about  one-third  of  this  mixture  on  the  flour  and 
other  ingredients,  and  beat  until  light  and  smooth ;  then 
add  the  remainder  of  the  egg-and-milk  mixture.  Finally, 
add  the  melted  butter. 

Heat  and  butter  a  frying-pan,  and  pour  into  it  a  thin 
layer  of  the  batter.  Cook  until  a  rich  brown  on  one 
side ;  then  spread  over  the  cake  a  teaspoonful  of  melted 
currant  jelly.  Roll  up  the  cake,  and  turn  it  out  on  a  hot 
dish.  Cook  six  cakes  in  this  manner,  and  send  them  to 
the  table.  Continue  cooking  and  serving  until  all  the 
batter  is  used. 

The  fire  must  be  very  bright  to  get  perfect  pancakes. 
Any  kind  of  jelly  may  be  used;  or  a  light  sprinkling 
of  sugar  and  nutmeg  may  be  substituted  for  jelly.  These 
pancakes  may  be  served  as  an  entree  or  for  dessert. 


632          MISS  FARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


German  Fritters. 

Use  some  stale  brioche  (see  chapter  entitled  "  Special 
Articles"),  cut  in  strips  three  inches  long, one  inch  wide, 
and  half  an  inch  thick.  With  one  dozen  such  pieces  use 
also  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  cupful  of  water,  the  grated  rind 
of  one  orange  and  the  juice  of  two,  two  eggs,  and  some 
fine  bread  crumbs. 

Boil  the  sugar,  grated  orange  rind,  and  water  together 
for  ten  minutes ;  then  add  the  orange  juice.  Pour  this 
syrup,  by  spoonfuls,  over  the  strips  of  brioche.  When 
all  of  it  has  been  absorbed,  beat  the  eggs  in  a  soup-plate. 
Dip  the  strips  of  brioche  in  the  egg,  and  then  roll  them 
in  bread  crumbs.  Fry  in  fat  for  two  minutes;  then 
drain,  and  serve  very  hot. 

The  syrup  may  be  flavored  with  any  fruit  or  spice  one 
likes,  or  a  gill  of  wine  may  be  added  to  it. 

Stale  sponge  cake  may  be  used  instead  of  brioche,  but 
great  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  it  from  breaking 
after  being  soaked  in  the  syrup. 

Peach  Fritters  a  la  Dauphine. 

Roll  some  brioche  paste  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  plain  or  fluted  cutter. 
Put  a  teaspoonful  of  peach  marmalade  in  the  centre 
of  half  the  rounds.  Wet  the  edges  with  the  white  of 
an  egg,  beaten  slightly.  Put  another  round  on  top  of 
this,  and  press  the  edges  together.  When  all  are  done, 
cover  them  with  a  towel,  and  let  them  stand  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  place  them  in  a  fry  ing-basket,  being 
careful  not  to  crowd  them,  and  fry  in  fat  for  four 
minutes.  Drain  them,  and  serve  hot  with  a  syrup 
flavored  with  fruit,  wine,  or  spice. 

Any  kind  of  marmalade  may  be  used,  the  fritters 
taking  the  name  of  the  fruit  used. 


PUDDINGS.  633 


Portuguese  Fritters. 

The  materials  needed  are :  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  two 
cnpfuls  of  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  stick  of  cinnamon,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  orange  marma- 
lade, three  eggs,  and  the  batter  for  fruit  fritters  described 
in  the  chapter  on  "  Entrees." 

Wash  the  rice,  and  then  soak  it  in  cold  water  for  an 
hour.  Pour  off  the  water,  and  put  the  rice,  cinnamon, 
and  milk  in  the  double-boiler.  Place  on  the  fire,  and 
cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  add  the  salt,  butter,  and  mar- 
malade. Beat  the  eggs  till  light,  and  stir  them  into  the 
dish.  Butter  a  shallow  cake-pan,  and  spread  the  mixture 
in  it,  having  it  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Put  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour  or  more. 

Make  the  fritter  batter.  Out  the  rice  mixture  into 
three-and-a-half-inch  squares,  and  cut  each  square  into 
two  triangles.  Dip  these  in  the  batter,  and  fry  for  three 
minutes  in  boiling  fat.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and 
arrange  on  a  warm  dish.  Sprinkle  them  with  cinnamon 
sugar,  —  six  table -spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  of  ground 
cinnamon.  Hold  a  hot  salamander  over  .them  to  dissolve 
the  sugar,  and  serve  at  once. 

SOUFFLES. 

Great  accuracy  and  care  are  required  in  preparing 
souffles.  The  materials  to  combine  are  so  few  and  the 
work  so  simple  that  the  inexperienced  wonder  that  souf- 
fles are  not  made  more  frequently,  and  that  there  ever 
should  be  a  failure.  The  truth  is,  the  margin  upon  which 
success  or  failure  rests  is  so  slight  that  it  takes  the  most 
careful  use  of  materials  and  the  most  exact  time  for 
cooking  to  bring  about  the  desired  result.  If  the 
souffle  cooks  one  minute  too  long,  or  is  not  served  imme- 


634          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

diately  after  it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  it  will  be  ruined. 
An  omelet  souffle  is  more  sensitive  to  over-cooking  and 
delay  in  serving  than  a  souffle  made  with  a  foundation. 
It  will  rise  to  two  or  three  times  its  original  size ;  and  if, 
when  it  is  done,  it  be  taken  instantly  from  the  oven  and 
served  at  once,  it  will  be  found  of  the  most  delicate  tex- 
ture and  flavor.  But  let  it  cook  too  long,  or  stand  for  a 
few  moments  after  coming  from  the  oven,  and  its  whole 
condition  will  change.  A  souffle  which  was  five  or  six 
inches  high  will  in  this  case  shrink  to  less  than  an  inch ; 
will  be  of  a  grayish  color,  heavy  and  tough,  and  of  a 
disappointing  flavor.  It  seems  wonderful  that  a  thing 
of  such  lightness  and  beauty  should  be  transformed  so 
quickly.  A  souffle  made  with  a  foundation  will  shrink 
about  one-third,  but  will  not  be  so  unpalatable  as  an 
omelet  souffle. 

These  drawbacks  should  not  discourage  the  house- 
keeper from  trying  to  make  this  delicate  dessert.  Being 
forewarned,  she  should  be  forearmed.  It  is  always 
better  that  the  guests  should  wait  five  minutes,  if  need 
be,  for  the  souffle,  than  that  the  souffle  should  wait  half 
a  minute  for  them. 

The  following  rules  for  souffles  will  suffice,  as  changes 
of  flavor  give  most  of  the  varieties. 

Souffl6  Dishes. 

As  the  souffle  must  be  served  in  the  dish  in  which  it 
has  been  baked,  the  dishes  selected  for  this  purpose 
should  be  as  dainty  as  possible.  Silver  dishes  with 
porcelain  linings  are  good  for  this  purpose,  only  the  time 
occupied  in  putting  the  souffle  into  the  silver  dish  and 
adjusting  the  rim  is  apt  to  prove  fatal  to  the  souffle, 
unless  the  work  be  done  by  an  expert.  There  is  a  pretty 
fluted  pudding-dish,  with  a  plain  dish  fitting  into  it, 
which  can  be  used  to  advantage.  Small  paper  cases 
are  really  the  most  satisfactory  things  to  use.  They 


PUDDINGS.  635 


can  be  bought  where  confectioners'  supplies  are  sold. 
Pursell,  on  Broadway,  near  Twentieth  Street,  New 
York,  keeps  a  good  supply.  There  are  many  shapes, 
but  the  square  and  round  are  the  most  useful  and  the 
cheapest. 


Paper  Cases,  —  Empty  and  Filled. 

Small  individual  souffle  dishes  come  in  fire-proof 
French  china.  They  are  very  dainty,  and  when  one 
considers  that  they  can  be  used  constantly  for  years,  are 
not  expensive,  unless  decorated.  They  are  sold  by 
Louis  &  Conger,  1340  Broadway,  New  York. 

Vanilla  Omelet  Souffle^ 

Beat  together  until  light  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  two 
generous  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  beat  a  little  longer. 
Now  beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth. 
Stir  this  into  the  yolks  and  sugar,  doing  the  work  gently. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  souffle  dish,  and 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  the  instant  it  comes  from  the 
oven.  Or  the  preparation  may  be  baked  in  small 
souffle  cases,  in  which  case  they  will  cook  in  eight 
minutes. 

Omelet  Souffle^ 

Break  six  eggs,  and  put  the  whites  into  one  bowl  and 
the  yolks  into  another.  To  the  latter  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  half  an 
orange,  and  one-third  of  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Beat 


636          MISS  PARLORS  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

this  mixture  until  it  is  very  light  and  thick.  Now  beat 
the  whites  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  stir  them  gently  into 
the  other  beaten  mixture.  Turn  the  eggs  into  a  buttered 
souffle  dish,  heaping  them  in  the  centre.  Sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twelve 
minutes.  Or,  the  preparation  may  be  baked  in  buttered 
souffle  cases.  Fill  the  cases  about  two-thirds  of  the  way 
to  the  brim,  and  place  in  a  shallow  pan.  The  souffle 
will  bake  in  eight  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Lemon,  vanilla,  almond,  or  some  other  flavor  may  be 
substituted  for  orange  rind. 

Lemon  Souffle^ 

The  materials  required  are :  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a 
cupful  of  flour,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  five  eggs,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon. 

Put  half  the  milk  and  the  rind  of  the  lemon  on  the 
stove  in  the  double-boiler.  Mix  the  other  half  with  the 
flour,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Add 
the  salt,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 

Beat  together  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs.  When 
the  hot  preparation  has  been  cooked  for  ten  minutes,  pour 
it  on  the  second  mixture ;  add  the  flavor,  stir  well,  and 
set  away  to  cool.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff, 
dry  froth.  Stir  them  lightly  into  the  cool  mixture.  Pour 
this  preparation  into  a  buttered  souffle*  dish,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve 
instantly. 

The  souffle*  may  be  flavored  with  a  scant  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  or  lemon  extract;  or  the  grated  rind  of  an 
orange  or  lemon  may  be  cooked  with  the  milk  and  flour. 

Fruit  Souffles. 

Rub  through  a  sieve  any  kind  of  preserved  fruit 
that  is  almost  free  of  liquid.  Make  a  cooked  prepara- 
tion, as  for  the  lemon  souffle.  When  this  is  cold,  stir 


PUDDINGS.  637 


in  half  a  pint  of  the  strained  fruit.  Beat  the  whites 
of  eight  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Stir  this  into  the 
cooked  preparation.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half 
an  hour. 

Another  way  to  make  a  fruit  souffle  is  to  put  a  thin 
layer  of  cooked  and  sweetened  fruit  on  the  bottom  of  the. 
dish,  and  fill  up  with  the  souffle  mixture.  This  is  par- 
ticularly nice  if  strawberries  or  raspberries  be  used. 

Rum  Omelet. 

Use  four  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rum,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Warm  a  large  omelet-pan.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  rather  light.  Add  the  salt,  sugar,  yolks,  and  milk 
to  them,  and  beat  well.  Put  the  butter  in  the  prnelet- 
pan,  and  place  on  the  hottest  part  of  the  range.  Pour 
in  the  egg  mixture,  and  shake  vigorously  until  it  begins 
to  thicken ;  then  fold,  and  turn  on  a  warm  dish.  With 
a  spoon  pour  the  rum  over  the  omelet,  letting  it  run  down 
on  the  dish.  Just  before  the  dish  is  placed  on  the  table, 
touch  a  lighted  match  to  the  liquor.  Be  sure  that  the: 
sulphur  is  burned  from  the  match  before  using  it. 

Orange  Omelet. 

This  is  made  of  four  eggs,  five  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  two  oranges,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Grate  lightly  the  rind  of  one  of  the  oranges  on  one 
table-spoonful  of  sugar.  Pare  the  oranges,  and  cut  them 
in  thin  small  slices,  cutting  from  the  sides,  not  across, 
the  orange.  Sprinkle  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  on 
the  sliced  oranges.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth.  Beat  into  them  the  table-spoonful  of  sugar 
mixed  with  the  orange  rind,  the  salt,  and  yolks  of  the 
eggs.  Add  also  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  orange  juice. 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  large  omelet-pan,  and  on  the  stove, 
and  when  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  egg  mixture.  Cook 
for  half  a  minute,  shaking  the  pan  well.  Spread  the 
orange  in  the  centre.  Roll  from  both  ends  toward  the 
centre;  then  fold  over,  and  turn  upon  a  warm  dish. 
Sprinkle  with  the  remaining  spoonful  of  sugar,  and  place 
in  the  oven  for  two  minutes.  Serve  at  once. 

Omelet  a  la  C61estine. 

Use  four  eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  apricot  jam  or  preserved  straw- 
berries or  raspberries. 

Put  a  small  omelet-pan  on  the  stove,  where  it  will  heat 
slowly.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Beat  the  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  the  sugar,  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  into  the  whites. 

Put  half  a  table-spoonful  of  the  butter  in  the  warm 
omelet-pan,  and  draw  the  pan  forward  where  it  will  get 
hot.  Pour  one-fourth  of  the  egg  mixture  into  it,  and 
shake  over  the  fire  for  about  fifteen  seconds.  Spread  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  preserve  in  the  centre  of  the 
omelet ;  then  fold,  and  turn  out  on  a  warm  dish.  Make 
four  omelets  in  this  manner,  putting  them  side  by  side 
on  the  same  dish.  Sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  place  in 
the  oven  for  two  minutes.  Serve  at  once. 


COLD    PUDDINGS. 


Marquise  Pudding. 

This  is  made  of  one  small  can  of  pineapple,  one  can  of 
pears,  half  a  pound  of  French  candied  cherries,  one  gill 
of  Maraschino,  one  pint  of  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs. 

Cut  the  cherries  into  fourths,  and  soak  them  for  sev- 


PUDDINGS.  639 


eral  hours  in  the  Maraschino,  —  over  night,  if  there  be 
time.  Eub  the  pears  through  a  puree-sieve.  After  re- 
moving the  hearts  from  the  pineapple,  chop  the  fruit 
very  fine.  Put  the  sugar  on  to  boil  with  half  a  pint 
of  water,  and  boil  rapidly  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  half 
of  this  syrup  on  the  pears,  and  stir  well.  Let  the 
remainder  of  the  syrup  boil  five  minutes  longer.  Beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  beat  the 
hot  syrup  into  them,  pouring  it  in  a  thin  stream,  and 
beating  all  the  time.  Set  this  me'ringue  in  a  cool  place. 

Freeze  the  puree  of  pears  for  ten  minutes.  Open  the 
freezer  and  add  the  pineapple,  cherries,  and  meringue ; 
then  freeze  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Take  out  the 
beater,  and  with  a  strong  long-handled  spoon  work 
the  pudding,  that  the  fruit  may  be  evenly  distributed. 
Pack  the  pudding  smoothly  in  a  mould,  or  pack  it  in 
the  freezer.  Draw  off  the  water,  and  add  more  salt  and 
ice.  Set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  two  or  three  hours. 
Serve  with  iced  Madeira  sauce  poured  around  it. 

Iced  Rice  a  rimpe>atrice. 

For  this  pudding  there  will  be  required  a  scant  tea- 
cupful  of  rice,  two  quarts  of  cream,  one  pound  of  French 
candied  fruit  (half  the  quantity  to  be  cherries),  one  pint 
of  sugar,  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  five  table-spoonfuls  of 
Maraschino,  five  of  sherry,  the  grated  rind  and  the  juice 
of  one  orange,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  a  gill  of  water. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  put  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  one  quart  of  cold  water.  Place  on  the  fire, 
and  when  it  boils  up,  pour  off  the  water.  Now  put  the 
rice  and  grated  rind  of  the  orange  in  the  double-boiler. 

Put  all  the  cream  in  a  large  bowl,  and  whip  and  skim 
until  there  are  three  generous  quarts  of  the  froth.  Put 
the  unwhipped  cream  with  the  rice.  Cover  the  boiler, 
and  place  on  the  fire.  Cook  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 


640          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Put  the  whipped  cream  in  a  cool  place.  Cut  the  can- 
died fruit  into  small  bits,  and  soak  it  in  the  Maraschino. 
When  the  rice  has  been  cooking  for  one  hour,  add  the 
salt  and  three  gills  of  the  sugar  j  and  when  it  is  done, 
set  away  to  cool. 

Put  the  half-gill  of  water  and  the  remaining  gill  of 
sugar  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Add  the  orange  juice,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  longer, 
being  careful  that  it  does  not  burn.  Do  not  stir  the 
sugar  and  water  while  on  the  fire.  Take  up  a  drop  of 
the  syrup  on  the  point  of  a  skewer,  and  roll  it  between 
the  thumb  and  forefinger.  If  it  forms  a  soft  ball  it  is 
done. 

While  the  sugar  is  boiling  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Beat  the  hot  syrup  into  this,  pour- 
ing it  in  a  thin  stream  into  the  beaten  whites.  When 
thoroughly  beaten,  set  away  in  a  cool  place. 

When  the  cooked  rice  is  cool,  add  to  it  the  sherry  and 
all  the  liquid  cream  that  is  drained  from  the  whipped 
cream  that  was  set  away.  Put  the  rice  in  the  freezer, 
and  beat  for  twenty  minutes.  When  this  time  has  passed, 
take  the  cover  from  the  freezer,  and  add  the  fruit  and 
Maraschino,  beating  it  into  the  frozen  mixture.  Next 
beat  in  the  me'ringue,  and  finally  the  whipped  cream. 
Pack  this  in  a  mould,  which  should  be  surrounded  with 
salt  and  ice.  Let  it  stand  for  two  or  three  hours. 

At  serving-time  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water.  Wipe 
carefully,  and  turn  the  pudding  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Serve 
an  iced  orange  sauce  with  it. 

This  pudding  is  enough  for  eighteen  or  twenty  people. 
Of  course,  half,  or  even  one-third,  of  the  quantity  may  be 
made  for  a  small  family. 


Frozen  Rice  Pudding. 

This  calls  for  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  a  quart  of  cold 
water,  three  oranges,  a  quart  of  milk,  a  pint  of  cream, 


PUDDINGS.  641 


two  small  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt. 

Wash  the  rice  carefully,  and  put  it  on  the  fire,  with 
the  water,  in  a  small  saucepan.  As  soon  as  it  begins  to 
boil,  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  the  milk  and  grated 
rind  of  the  oranges.  Cook  for  an  hour  in  a  double- 
boiler  ;  then  add  the  sugar,  and  cook  half  an  hour  longer. 
Remove  from  the  fire,  and  after  adding  the  salt,  set  away 
to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  juice  of  the  oranges,  and 
also  the  cream,  whipped  to  a  froth.  Freeze  the  same 
as  ice-cream,  and  serve  with  iced  orange  sauce. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  or  one  table-spoonful  of 
either  lemon  or  vanilla  extract,  may  be  substituted  for 
the  orange  juice,  the  flavoring  being  added  when  the 
pudding  is  cold  and  before  it  is  frozen. 

Glazed  Rice  Pudding. 

This  pudding  will  require  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  one 
pint  of  milk,  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream  (about  a  pint 
of  the  unwhipped  cream),  one  pint  of  sugar,  three  eggs, 
the  grated  rind  and  the  juice  of  an  orange,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  salt  and  ice  for  freezing. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  soak  it  in  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  it 
in  a  large  stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Boil  rapidly  until  the  grains  of  rice  are  soft,  which  will 
be  in  about  twenty-five  minutes.  The  stew-pan  must  be 
uncovered  all  the  time  the  rice  is  cooking.  Now  turn 
the  rice  into  a  colander,  and  as  soon  as  well  drained, 
turn  it  into  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  a  syrup  made  as 
follows  :  — 

When  the  rice  is  put  on  to  boil,  put  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  of  hot  water,  and  two-thirds 
of  the  grated  rind  of  the  orange.  Boil  this  for  twenty- 
five  minutes ;  then  add  the  juice  of  the  orange.  This 
syrup  must  be  hot  when  poured  over  the  rice. 

41 


642          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Now  set  the  rice  away  to  cool.  Put  all  the  milk 
except  half  a  gill  into  the  double-boiler.  Add  the  re- 
mainder of  the  grated  orange  rind,  and  place  on  the 
fire.  Beat  the  eggs  and  the  remaining  cupful  of  sugar 
together  until  very  light.  Add  the  half -gill  of  cold  milk. 
Pour  the  boiling  milk  on  this  mixture,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Turn  into  the  double-boiler,  and  cook  on  the  fire 
for  five  minutes,  stirring  constantly ;  then  put  away  to 
cool.  Pack  a  plain  mould  in  salt  and  ice,  the  same  as 
for  a  mousse,  as  described  in  the  chapter  on  "  Dessert." 
When  the  rice  and  custard  both  are  cold,  mix  the  whipped 
cream  with  the  custard.  Put  a  layer  of  this  mixture  on 
the  bottom  of  the  mould ;  then  sprinkle  in  a  layer  of 
rice.  Continue  this  until  all  the  materials  are  used. 
Cover  the  freezer  with  an  old  blanket  or  a  piece  of 
carpeting,  and  set  in  a  cool  place  for  two  hours  or  more. 
At  serving-time  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  and  then 
wipe  it.  Turn  out  the  pudding,  and  serve  at  once. 

Chantilly  Pudding. 

This  pudding  is  made  in  two  parts,  the  cake  for  the 
border,  and  the  cream  for  the  centre.  For  the  cake  use 
five  eggs,  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  cupful  of  flour, 
the  grated  rind  and  the  juice  of  one  orange,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder.  Mix  the  baking-powder  with 
the  flour.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  .and  the  sugar 
together  until  the  mixture  is  light.  Add  the  orange  juice 
and  grated  rind,  and  beat  five  minutes  longer.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  lightly  into 
the  other  ingredients.  Now  add  the  flour,  stirring  it  in 
lightly.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  deep  border  mould,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes.  On 
taking  from  the  oven,  let  it  partially  cool  in  the  mould. 
Turn  it  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Spread  half  a  pint  of  straw- 
berry preserve  on  the  inside  of  the  cake,  and  set  the 
dish  away  in  a  cool  place. 


PUDDINGS.  643 


To  make  the  cream  one  needs  three  quarts  of  whipped 
cream,  —  a  quart  of  the  unwhipped  cream  will  give  this 
quantity,  —  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  a  cupful  of  water, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  and  a  generous  half-cupful 
of  sugar. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  of  the  water  for  two  hours. 
Whip  the  cream,  and  put  it  in  a  pan  which  has  been 
placed  in  another  containing  ice-water.  Sprinkle  the 
wine  and  sugar  over  it.  Pour  half  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water  on  the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir  until  all  the  gelatine 
is  dissolved.  Strain  this  liquid  over  the  cream.  Stir 


Chantilly  Pudding. 

from  the  bottom  of  the  pan  until  the  mixture  is  so  thick 
that  it  will  hardly  flow.  Instantly  turn  it  into  the  cen- 
tre of  the  cake.  Place  the  dish  in  the  refrigerator  for 
an  hour  or  more,  if  there  be  an  abundance  of  time.  It 
must  be  kept  in  a  cold  place  for  at  least  twenty  minutes, 
and  the  longer  the  time  the  better. 

When  strawberries  are  in  season,  the  dish  is  improved 
in  appearance  if  at  the  time  of  serving  the  cream  be 
dotted  with  ripe  berries.  Candied  cherries  make  a  hand- 
some decoration.  Easpberry  preserve,  or  indeed  any 
small  fruit,  may  be  used  instead  of  the  strawberries. 

The  cream  filling  makes  a  delicious  cream  for  charlotte 
russe. 

Cold  Cabinet  Pudding. 

This  is  made  of  one  quart  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs,  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  one  dozen  macaroons, 


644          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

half  a  dozen  lady -fingers,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  French 
candied  cherries,  two  ounces  each  of  apricots  and  angelica, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  Maraschino,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract,  and  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Cut  the  cherries  and  apricots  into  bits.  Cut  the  an- 
gelica in  large  pieces  suitable  for  decorating.  Put  all 
the  fruit  in  a  cup,  and  pour  the  Maraschino  over  it. 
Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  the  cold  water.  Beat 
the  egg  yolks  and  the  sugar  together.  Add  half  a  pint 
of  the  milk  to  them.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  milk  on 
the  fire  in  the  double-boiler.  When  it  boils,  stir  in  the 
egg-mixture.  Cook  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  stirring 
all  the  while.  It  will  take  about  five  minutes.  On  tak- 
ing it  from  the  fire,  add  the  soaked  gelatine  and  the  salt. 
Place  the  boiler  in  cold  water,  and  stir  the  custard  until 
it  is  almost  cool ;  then  add  the  vanilla. 

Put  a  round  or  oval  mould  in  a  pan,  and  surround  it 
with  pounded  ice.  Decorate  the  bottom  with  angelica. 


Cold  Cabinet  Pudding. 

Dip  pieces  of  cherry  and  apricot  in  the  cool  custard,  and 
dot  the  sides  of  the  mould  with  them.  With  a  pastry- 
brush  put  a  thin  layer  of  the  custard  on  the  sides  of  the 
mould.  Put  some  of  the  custard  (a  spoonful  at  a  time) 
in  the  bottom  of  the  mould.  It  should  be  about  one- 
third  of  an  'Inch  thick.  When  this  is  cool,  dip  some 
of  the  lady-fingers  in  the  custard,  and  arrange  them  in 


* 

PUDDINGS.  645 


the  mould.  Sprinkle  them  with  some  of  the  candied 
fruit.  Now  put  in  about  a  gill  of  the  custard,  but 
only  a  spoonful  at  a  time.  Let  this  stand  until  almost 
stiff ;  then  put  in  a  layer  of  macaroons  which  have  first 
been  dipped  in  the  custard.  Sprinkle  with  fruit,  and 
add  the  custard  as  before.  When  this  layer  is  almost 
firm,  repeat  the  process  ;  and  as  soon  as  all  the  materials 
have  been  used,  put  the  pudding  in  a  cold  room  for  a 
few  hours. 

The  custard  must  be  kept  cold,  but  liquid,  through- 
out the  process  of  putting  the  pudding  together.  If  it 
begins  to  congeal,  place  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  hot  water 
for  about  a  minute,  and  stir  the  custard  until  it  becomes 
liquid  again. 

When  it  is  time  to  serve  the  pudding,  take  it  from  the 
ice.  Dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water  for  about  twenty 
seconds.  Wipe  it,  and  see  that  the  pudding  does  not 
cling  to  the  sides.  Turn  on  a  flat  dish.  Serve  chocolate 
sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

Sweet  Pur6e  of  Chestnuts,  with  Whipped 
Cream. 

For  this  dessert  use  thirty  French  chestnuts,  half  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  water,  and  three  pints  of 
whipped  and  drained  cream,  flavored  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  wine  and  two  of  sugar. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  chestnuts.  Put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil 
for  half  an  hour.  Drain  them;  then  pound  to  powder, 
and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Put  in  a  stew-pan  with  the 
sugar  and  water,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time.  .  If  the  puree  be  firm  at  the  end  of  ten  min- 
utes, take  from  the  fire  ;  but  if  not,  cook  until  it  is.  Now 
put  a  little  of  the  mixture  in  a  coarse  puree-sieve  and 
rub  through,  being  careful  not  to  press  the  mixture  down 
as  it  comes  through.  Continue  this  until  all  has  been 

.' 


646          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

rubbed  through.  Heap  this  puree,  in  a  circle  on  a  dish, 
and  set  away  in  a  cool  place  until  serving-time.  When 
ready  to  serve,  heap  the  whipped  and  flavored  cream  in 
the  centre. 

Chestnut  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  use  one  package  of  gelatine,  thirty 
French  chestnuts,  two  ounces  of  candieH  cherries,  one 
cupful  of  pineapple,  —  fresh  or  canned,  —  chopped  fine, 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  of  water,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
one  and  a  half  pints  of  cream,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
Maraschino. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  cupful  of  the  cold  water  for 
two  hours.  Shell  and  blanch  the  chestnuts.  Put  them 
in  a  stew-pan  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them. 
Cover,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  the  water  at 
the  end  of  that  time,  and,  putting  the  nuts  into  a  mortar, 
pound  them  fine.  Put  into  each  of  two  stew-pans  half  a 
cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  water.  Boil  rapidly 
for  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  the  chestnuts  to  the  syrup  in 
one  pan,  and  the  pineapple  and  candied  cherries,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  to  that  in  the  other.  Simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes, being  careful  not  to  burn. 

Put  all  but  a  gill  of  the  cream  into  the  double-boiler, 
and  place  on  the  fire.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light, 
and  add  the  cold  cream  to  them.  Stir  this  mixture  into 
the  hot  cream,  and  cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time.  Now  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  for 
half  a  minute.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  chestnut 
mixture.  Place  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  stir 
until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken ;  then  add  the  cherry 
and  pineapple  mixture,  and  also  the  Maraschino.  Mix 
well,  and  pour  into  a  large  mould  that  has  been  rinsed 
in  cold  water.  Set  in  the  refrigerator  for  three  or  four 
hours.  Serve  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  sugar 
and  wine. 


PUDDINGS.  647 


Orleans  Pudding. 

Use  one  pint  of  milk,  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream, 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  stale  sponge  cake,  one  gill  of  sherry, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  the  juice  of  an  orange,  one-fourth 
of  a  pound  of  French  candied  fruit,  half  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  and  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water. 

Soak  the  gviatine  in  the  water  for  two  hours.  Pour 
the  wine  and  fruit  juice  over  the  cake.  Cut  the  candied 
fruit  into  bits.  Sprinkle  a  two-quart  mould  with  some  of 
the  fruit,  and  put  the  remainder  with  the  cake.  Put  the 
milk  on  to  boil.  When  it  becomes  hot,  add  the  gelatine 
and  sugar.  Take  the  boiler  from  the  fire,  and  place  it  in 
a  pan  of  cold  water.  Stir  frequently  until  the  mixture 
begins  to  thicken ;  then  add  the  whipped  cream.  When 
this  is  well  mixed,  add  the  soaked  cake  and  fruit.  Pour 
this  preparation  into  the  mould ;  and  after  closing  the 
mould,  pack  it  in  salt  and  ice.  Let  the  pudding  stand 
for  two  hours  or  more.  Serve  with  two  quarts  of  whipped 
cream,  flavored  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry.  Or  any  of  the 
iced  sauces  may  be  used. 

Orange   Snow  Pudding. 

Use  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  three  gills  of  orange 
juice,  a  generous  cupful  of  sugar,  three  gills  of  water, 
and  the  whites  of  six  eggs. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  gill  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  pour  two  gills  of  boil- 
ing water  on  it.  Add  the  sugar,  and  place  the  bowl  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Stir  until  the  sugar  and  gela- 
tine are  fully  dissolved.  Add  the  orange  juice,  and  strain 
into  a  large  bowl.  Put  away  to  cool ;  and  when  cool, 
add  the  unbeaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Place  the  bowl  in 
a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it  is  white 


648          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  thick.  Pour  it  into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden. 
Serve  with  custard  sauce  made  as  follows  :  — ' 

Sauce.  —  Use  a  pint  and  a  gill  of  milk,  one-third  of  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  one  orange, 
and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  one  pint  of  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler,  and 
grate  the  rind  of  the  orange  into  it.  Place  on  the  fire. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  together.  Add 
the  gill  of  cold  milk  to  them.  Pour  the  hot  milk  on 
this  mixture,  and  stir  well.  Keturn  to  the  double-boiler, 
and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add 
the  salt,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

Imperial  Pudding. 

There  will  be  needed  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  a  generous 
pint  of  milk,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
wine,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  quarts  and  a  pint  of 
whipped  cream,  and  half  a  box  of  gelatine,  soaked  for 
two  hours  in  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  put  it  on  to  boil  in  a  quart  of  cold 
water ;  and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  pour  off  all  the  water. 
Add  the  pint  of  milk,  and  put  into  the  double-boiler ; 
and  after  an  hour's  cooking,  add  the  gelatine,  sugar,  salt, 
and  wine.  Place  in  a  basin  of  ice-water,  and  stir  until 
cold ;  then  add  the  whipped  cream,  stirring  well.  Poui 
into  moulds,  and  set  away  to  harden.  About  one  hour 
will  be  required. 

When  you  are  ready  to  serve  the  pudding,  dip  the 
moulds  into  warm  water,  to  loosen  the  pudding  from  the 
sides ;  and  after  turning  out  upon  a  large  flat  dish,  heap 
strawberry  sauce  around  it. 

The  rind  and  juice  of  two  oranges  may  be  substituted 
for  the  wine.  Cook  the  grated  rind  with  the  rice  and 
milk.  Add  the  juice  to  the  cooked  mixture. 


PUDDINGS.  649 


Silver-and-Gold  Pudding. 

For  this  pudding  there  will  be  required  ten  eggs,  two 
quarts  of  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three-quarters 
of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract, 
and  one  scant  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Butter  a  three-pint  mould.  Separate  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  being  careful  not  to  have  a  par- 
ticle of  yolk  with  the  whites.  Put  one-third  of  the 
sugar  and  one  table-spoonful  of  milk  with  the  whites, 
and  beat  the  mixture  with  a  spoon  until  it  breaks  readily 
when  poured  from  the  spoon ;  then  add  a  quart  of  milk, 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  one-fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  after  blending  thoroughly,  pour  the 
mixture  through  a  fine  strainer  into  the  mould. 

Set  the  mould  in  a  pan,  and  surround  it  with  hot 
water  enough  to  reach  almost  to  the  top  of  the  mould. 
Place  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  The  water  in  the  pan  should  never  boil.  Try 
the  custard  by  running  the  blade  of  a  knife  into  the 
centre ;  for  if  the  blade  be  clean  when  withdrawn,  the 
pudding  may  be  removed  from  the  oven,  but  if  there  be 
any  milky  substance  clinging  to  it,  further  cooking  will 
be  required.  At  any  rate,  when  the  custard  is  cooked, 
set  it  where  it  will  get  exceedingly  cold. 

While  the  pudding  is  cooking,  make  a  soft  custard  of 
the  materials  that  remained;  and  also  cool  this.  At 
serving-time  turn  the  baked  custard  into  a  flat  glass  dish, 
and  pour  the  soft  custard  around  it. 

This  is  a  good  pudding  for  Sunday,  as  it  is  all  the 
better  for  being  made  a  day  before  it  is  served. 

Sunset  Pudding. 

This  is  an  elegant  dish.  The  ingredients  are  :  one- 
third  of  a  box  of  Cox's  gelatine,  four  sheets  of  pink  isin- 
glass, two  lemons,  three  gills  of  sherry,  three  of  sugar, 
and  one  quart  of  water. 


650          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Break  the  isinglass  into  bits,  and  put  it  in  a  bowl  with 
one  gill  of  cold  water.  Put  the  gelatine  in  another  bowl, 
also  containing  a  gill  of  cold  water.  Let  both  the  isin- 
glass and  gelatine  soak  for  three  or  four  hours.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  have  ready  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling 
water,  and  pour  half  into  each  bowl,  stirring  until  the 
gelatine  and  isinglass  are  dissolved.  Now  put  into  each 
bowl  half  of  the  lemon  juice,  sugar,  and  wine.  Stir  until 
the  sugar  becomes  dissolved;  then  strain  the  liquids 
through  a  napkin  into  separate  large  bowls ;  and  after 
placing  the  bowls  in  pans  of  ice-water,  stir  their  contents 
occasionally  until  they  become  cool. 

Now  begin  to  beat  the  mixtures,  alternately,  stirring 
well  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  bowls.  When 
both  have  become  so  thick  that  they  will  pour  from  a 
spoon  in  a  thick  stream,  turn  them  into  a  three-pint 
mould  in  this  manner :  first  put  two  large  spoonfuls 
of  the  pink  liquid  in  the  centre  of  the  mould  ;  then  pour 
in  all  the  light-colored  mixture;  finally,  pour  in  the 
remainder  of  the  pink  mixture. 

Put  the  mould  in  a  refrigerator  in  order  that  its  con- 
tents may  become  hardened.  At  serving-time  dip  the 
mould  in  warm  water,  and  as  soon  as  the  pudding  becomes 
loosened  at  the  sides,  wipe  the  mould  and  turn  out  the 
pudding  on  a  large  flat  dish.  Pour  around  it  a  pint  of 
soft  custard  that  has  been  flavored  with  vanilla. 


Alpine  Pudding. 

This  pudding  is  supposed  to  represent  ice,  snow,  and 
the  thawing  ice  and  snow.  It  is  made  of  half  a  box  of 
gelatine,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  lemon 
juice,  half  a  cupful  of  wine,  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water, 
one  cupful  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  and  the  whites 
of  three  eggs. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours  or 
more ;  then  pour  the  boiling  water  upon  the  soaked  gela- 


PUDDINGS.  661 


tine,  and  stir  for  half  a  minute.  Add  the  sugar,  lemon 
juice,  and  wine,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 
Strain  the  liquid  through  a  napkin. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  light  but  not  a  dry 
froth,  and  add  them  to  the  strained  liquid.  Place  the 
bowl  containing  the  preparation  in  a  basin  of  ice-water, 
and  beat  for  about  five  minutes.  When  the  mixture 
begins  to  cool,  —  as  it  should  in  about  ten  minutes,  —  stir 
it  frequently  until  it  thickens  slightly ;  then  turn  it  into 
a  mould,  and  set  in  an  ice-chest  to  harden.  About  two 
hours  will  be  needed  to  harden  the  mixture  sufficiently. 

The  special  point  to  be  attained  in  making  an  Alpine 
pudding  is  to  have  the  egg  whites  partially  separate 
from  the  jelly,  so  that  when  the  pudding  is  turned  out 
there  shall  be  clear  jelly  on  top  and  a  rather  white 
sponge  at  the  bottom.  This  result  is  obtained  by  pour- 
ing the  mixture  into  the  mould  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
thicken.  But  care  must  be  taken  to  mix  enough  jelly 
with  the  whites  to  give  them  flavor  and  body.  At  serv- 
ing-time dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  wipe  it,  and  then 
turn  the  contents  out  on  a  large  flat  dish.  Pour  custard 
sauce  around  the  pudding. 

Sauce.  • —  For  one  pint  of  sauce  use  a  pint  of  milk,  two 
eggs,  besides  the  three  yolks  left  from  the  pudding,  one- 
third  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  salt  together.  Add  half  a 
cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  remainder  on  the  stove 
in  a  double-boiler.  When  it  begins  to  boil,  pour  it  over 
the  egg  mixture,  and  stir  well.  Put  the  mixture  in  the 
double-boiler,  and  cook,  stirring  all  the  while,  until  it 
thickens,  —  say  for  about  five  minutes.  Take  the  sauce 
from  the  fire,  and  pour  it  into  a  bowl  or  pitcher.  Add 
the  vanilla  extract,  and  stir  the  sauce  for  a  few  minutes. 
Place  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  stir  the  con- 
tents occasionally  until  they  become  cool. 


652          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Pineapple  Pudding. 

Use  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
three  cupfuls  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  three  cupfuls 
of  grated  pineapple,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  cold  milk  for 
two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  two  cupfuls  of 
milk  into  the  double-boiler,  and  on  the  stove.  Beat 
together  the  sugar,  salt,  and  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Add  to 
this  mixture  the  remaining  half-cupful  of  cold  milk. 
Now  stir  into  the  boiling  milk  the  pineapple,  gelatine, 
and  egg  mixture.  Cook  for  four  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  cold  water 
for  five  minutes ;  then  turn  into  a  mould  that  has  beer, 
rinsed  in  cold  water.  Set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  five 
or  six  hours. 

Strawberry  Pudding. 

In  making  this  pudding  one  combines  a  cupful  of 
sifted  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  four  eggs,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  quart 
of  strawberries,  and  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream  (a 
pint  of  cream  in  the  ordinary  state  makes  two  quarts 
when  whipped). 

Beat  together  a  cupful  of  the  sugar,  the  lemon  juice, 
and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  add  them  to  the  yolks  and  sugar.  Mix  the 
baking-powder  and  flour,  and  sift  upon  the  liquid  mix- 
ture; then  stir  gently.  Lightly  butter  a  deep  round 
pan,  and,  pouring  the  mixture  into  it,  bake  for  thirty- 
five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

While  the  cake  is  baking,  pick  over  and  crush  the 
strawberries.  Add  the  second  cupful  of  sugar  to  them, 
and  set  away  in  a  cool  place.  When  the  cake  is  baked 
and  has  become  cool,  place  it  in  a  large  pudding-dish  and 
pour  the  strawberries  over  it.  At  serving-time  heap  the 
whipped  cream  upon  the  fruit. 


PUDDINGS.  653 


In  making  this  pudding  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  great 
deal  of  juice  when  the  fruit  is  emptied  upon  the  cake. 
Stale  sponge  cake  will  answer  for  the  pudding.  When 
raspberries  are  in  season  they  may  be  substituted  for  the 
strawberries ;  but  as  they  are  sweeter,  half  a  cupful  of 
sugar  will  be  enough  to  sprinkle  over  them.  They 
should  not  be  crushed. 

Velvet  Pudding. 

There  will  be  required  one  pint  of  water,  half  a  gill  of 
milk,  one  lemon,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch, 
half  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  two  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonf ul  of  salt,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Take  one  gill  of  the  water  to  mix  with  the  corn-starch, 
and  heat  the  rest  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  stir  in  the 
corn-starch,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  occasion- 
ally. Stir  the  lemon  juice  and  grated  rind  into  the 
cooked  mixture. 

Beat  the  butter,  granulated  sugar,  and  egg  yolks 
together.  Add  the  milk,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the 
cooked  corn-starch.  Turn  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then 
with  a  spoon  beat  in  the  powdered  sugar.  Spread  this 
over  the  pudding,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  with  the 
oven  door  open.  Set  away  to  cool  before  serving. 

The  quantities  given  make  a  pudding  large  enough 
for  five  or  six  persons.  They  may  be  increased  one-half 
if  a  larger  pudding  be  desired. 

Queen  of  Puddings. 

The  materials  are :  six  eggs,  one  quart  of  milk,  one 
pint  of  bread  crumbs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  pow- 


654         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

dered  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  one  cupful 
of  strawberry  or  raspberry  preserve. 

Soak  the  bread  and  milk  together  for  two  hours. 
Mash  the  bread  fine.  Beat  the  sugar,  salt,  and  yolks  of 
the  eggs  together,  and  add  to  the  bread  and  milk.  Pour 
this  mixture  into  a  pudding-dish  that  will  hold  two  quarts. 
Bake  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  from 
the  oven,  and  spread  the  preserve  over  it. 

Grate  the  lemon  rind  on  the  powdered  sugar.  -  Beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Remove  the 
beater,  and  add  the  powdered  sugar  and  lemon  rind,  a 
spoonful  at  a  time.  Beat  this  in  with  a  silver  spoon. 
Spread  this  meringue  on  the  pudding,  and  return  the 
dish  to  the  oven,  to  bake  for  twenty  minutes  with  the 
door  open.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

*  Cream  M6ringue  Pudding. 

Use  for  this  pudding  one  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of 
powdered  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Break  the  eggs,  and  beat  well  all  the  yolks  and  one 
of  the  whites.  Add  the  milk  and  all  but  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  sugar.  Put  the  flour  and  salt  into 
another  bowl,  and  pour  upon  them  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  egg-and-milk  mixture.  Beat  until  very  smooth,  and 
gradually  add  the  rest  of  the  egg-and-milk  mixture. 
Turn  into  a  double-boiler,  —  first  being  careful  to  see 
that  the  water  in  the  lower  kettle  is  boiling.  Stir  the 
mixture  until  it  becomes  a  smooth  thick  cream,  —  say 
for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Add  the  vanilla  extract, 
and  rub  the  mixture  through  a  strainer  into  a  pudding- 
dish.  Now  beat  the  three  reserved  whites  of  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  gradually  beat  into  them  the  three  re- 
maining table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Spread  this  mixture 
rather  roughly  over  the  pudding.  Place  in  a  moderate 


PUDDINGS.  655 


oven,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  with  the  door  open. 
The  pudding  should  be  served  cold. 

Strawberry  M6ringue. 

This  pudding  will  require  the  whites  of  seven  eggs, 
seven  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  cupful  of  strawberry  pre- 
serve. 

Beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  with  a  spoon 
gradually  beat  the  powdered  sugar  and  the  salt  into  the 
froth.  Butter  a  two-quart  pudding-dish,  and  drop  spoon- 
fuls of  the  meringue  upon  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Now 
drop  in  the  preserve  by  half-spoonfuls.  Continue  put- 
ting in  these  alternate  layers  until  the  full  quantity  of 
both  materials  has  been  used.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  very  cold  with 
whipped  cream. 

*  Pineapple  Cream  Pudding. 

For  six  or  eight  persons  use  one  pineapple  of  medium 
size,  one  pint  of  milk,  three  eggs,  three-fourths  of  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Put  the  milk  in  the  double-boiler,  and  on  the  fire. 
Beat  together,  until  light  and  smooth,  the  sugar,  flour, 
salt,  and  eggs.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk, 
and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  frequently;  then 
take  from  the  fire,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  bowl. 
Beat  the  vanilla  extract  into  the  mixture,  and  set  the 
bowl  away  in  a  cool  place. 

Pare  the  pineapple,  and  grate  it  into  a  deep  dish. 
When  the  cream  becomes  cool,  stir  the  pineapple  into 
it;  then  place  the  pudding  in  the  refrigerator  for  an 
hour  or  more,  to  chill  it  thoroughly.  Turn  into  a  glass 
dish,  and  serve. 


656          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Banana  Cream  Pudding. 

Pare  and  slice  three  ripe  bananas,  and  stir  them  into  a 
cream  made  the  same  as  for  pineapple  cream  pudding. 

*  Peach  Cream  Pudding. 

Make  this  the  same  as  the  pineapple  pudding,  only 
substitute  a  quart  of  pared  and  sliced  ripe  peaches  for 
the  grated  pineapple. 

*  Bird's-nest  Pudding. 

This  calls  for  half  a  dozen  apples  of  medium  size,  a 
quart  of  milk,  half  a  nutmeg,  five  eggs,  one  cupful  and 
a  quarter  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  boiling  water. 

Put  the  water  and  half  a  capful  of  sugar  on  the  stove  in 
a  saucepan,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Pare  and  core  the 
apples,  and  cook  them  gently  in  the  boiling  water  and 
sugar  until  they  begin  to  grow  tender,  —  say  for  eight  or 
ten  minutes.  Be  careful  not  to  cook  them  so  long  nor 
«o  rapidly  that  they  will  break.  Remove  them  from  the 
saucepan,  and  let  them  drain  ;  then  put  them  into  a  pud- 
ding-dish that  will  hold  about  two  quarts,  and  after 
sprinkling  them  with  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and 
a  little  nutmeg,  place  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  add  the  salt  and 
the  remaining  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Beat  the  mixture 
thoroughly  with  a  spoon,  and  when  it  gets  thoroughly 
beaten,  add  the  milk  and  strain  the  mixture.  Take  the 
pudding-dish  from  the  oven,  and  pour  the  custard  over 
it,  being  careful  not  to  displace  the  apples.  Return  to 
the  oven,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour ;  then  put  away  to 
cool.  At  serving-time  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  bright 
jelly  in  the  centre  of  each  apple. 

Partially  cooking  the  apples  before  the  custard  is  added 
gives  a  much  finer  pudding  than  the  old  method  of  pour- 


JPUDDINGS.  657 


ing  the  custard  over  the  uncooked  fruit.  It  takes  longer 
to  cook  the  apples  than  the  custard,  and  if  both  were 
baked  for  the  same  time,  one  or  the  other  would  be 
spoiled.  The  sugar  and  water  in  which  the  fruit  is  par- 
tially cooked  may  be  used  in  stewing  apples  or  pears. 

*R8d  Gro. 

The  materials  are  :  a  pint  of  any  kind  of  red  fruit  juice, 
one  quart  of  water,  one  cupful  of  sago,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  if  strawberry  or  raspberry  juice 
be  used,  one  cupful  of  sugar ;  or  if  currant  juice  be  used, 
one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar. 

Wash  the  sago,  and  let  it  soak  over  night  in  the  quart 
of  cold  water.  In  the  morning  put  it  in  the  double 
boiler  with  the  water  in  which  it  was  soaked,  and  cook 
for  one  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the  fruit 
juice,  salt,  and  sugar,  and  cook  half  an  hour  longer. 

Wet  a  smooth  earthen  dish  with  cold  water,  and  turn 
the  rod  gro  into  it.  Let  it  stand  in  a  cold  place  for 
three  or  four  hours.  At  serving-time  turn  out  on  a  flat 
dish,  and  heap  whipped  cream  around  it;  or  if  it  be 
inconvenient  to  provide  whipped  cream,  serve  with  plain 
cream. 

In  winter  and  spring  this  dish  may  be  prepared  with 
a  pint  of  the  red  syrup  that  is  usually  left  from  any 
red  preserve ;  or  it  may  be  made  by  the  addition  of  a 
tumbler  of  currant  jelly  to  the  cooked  sago.  In  case 
either  the  juice  or  the  jelly  be  used,  only  a  little  sugar 
will  be  needed. 

*  Tapioca  Cream  Pudding. 

These  are  the  ingredients  needed  :  three  pints  of  milk, 
one  pint  of  cold  water,  one  teacupful  of  tapioca,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  rind  and  juice  of  an  orange,  three 
eggs,  and  a  cupful  and  a  quarter  of  powdered  sugar. 


658          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Wash  the  tapioca,  and  soak  it  in  the  cold  water  over 
night.  In  the  morning  put  the  tapioca,  milk,  and  grated 
rind  of  the  orange  in  a  double-boiler,  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour.  Meanwhile  separate  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
from  the  whites.  Put  the  whites  in  a  cool  place.  Beat 
together  the  yolks,  orange  juice,  salt,  and  one  cupful  of 
the  sugar.  At  the  end  of  the  half -hour  gradually  pour 
the  boiling  mixture  upon  the  second  one,  stirring  all  the 
while ;  then  turn  into  a  pudding-dish.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  gradually  beat  into 
this  froth  the  remaining  sugar.  Spread  over  the  pud- 
ding, and  then  cook  for  thirty  minutes  with  the  oven 
door  open.  Set  away  to  cool,  and  do  not  serve  until  the 
pudding  is  perfectly  cold. 

*  Custard  M6ringue  Pudding. 

For  a  pudding  sufficiently  large  for  six  or  eight  per- 
sons use  these  materials :  one  quart  of  milk,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half 
of  vanilla  extract,  half  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  and 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

Keserve  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  put  the  rest  on  the 
stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  flour  and  cold  milk, 
and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk ;  continuing  to 
stir  until  the  liquid  is  perfectly  smooth.  Beat  together 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  granulated  sugar,  salt,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  the  vanilla  extract.  Stir  this  mixture 
into  that  which  already  is  cooking ;  then  take  the  boiler 
from  the  stove,  and  after  adding  the  butter,  pour  the 
mixture  into  a  pudding-dish.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  for 
half  an  hour. 

At  the  end  of  that  time  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  then  beat  into  them  the  powdered 
sugar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Spread 
this  meringue  over  the  pudding,  and  let  it  bake  for  a 


PUDDINGS.  659 


quarter  of  an  hour  with  the  oven  door  open;  then  set 
away  to  cool.  This  is  nice  for  Sunday,  as  it  may  be 
prepared  the  day  before. 

*Cold  Custard  Pudding. 

This  is  made  of  a  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  a  stick 
of  cinnamon,  a  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  scant  half-teacupful  of  sugar. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  re- 
mainder, with  the  cinnamon,  broken  into  several  pieces, 
on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  When  the  milk  begins 
to  boil,  add  the  sugar,  salt,  and  the  corn-starch,  mixed 
with  the  cold  milk,  and  cook  five  minutes  longer.  Take 
from  the  fire,  and  set  away  to  cool.  Beat  the  eggs  well, 
and  when  the  cooked  mixture  becomes  cold,  stir  the  eggs 
into  it ;  then  strain  into  a  pudding-dish.  Bake  in  a  very 
moderate  oven  until  the  pudding  becomes  firm  in  the 
centre.  Get  this  knowledge  by  inserting  the  blade  of  a 
knife  or  the  handle  of  a  spoon  into  the  centre  of  the 
pudding ;  for  if  it  come  out  free  of  milk,  the  pudding 
need  be  cooked  no  longer.  It  takes  about  half  an  hour 
for  the  baking.  Have  the  pudding  ice-cold  when  it  is 
served. 

If  lemon  flavor  be  liked,  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon,  instead 
of  the  stick  of  cinnamon,  may  be  cooked  in  the  milk. 
Old-fashioned  housekeepers  sometimes  use  lemon  and 
cinnamon  together,  getting  a  nice  flavor.  It  is  not  ab- 
solutely necessary  to  use  corn-starch ;  the  custard  will 
be  firm  and  smooth  without  it.  When  eggs  are  scarce, 
three  will  be  enough  to  use,  with  the  corn-starch.  The 
fourth  egg,  of  course,  makes  the  pudding  richer. 

Orange  Pudding. 

Use  a  cupful  of  finely  powdered  cracker  crumbs,  one 
cupful  and  a  half  of  granulated  sugar,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  one  cupful  of  water,  two  table- 


660          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

spoonfuls  of  butter,  the  rind  of  three  oranges  and  juice 
of  six,  and  half  a  dozen  eggs. 

Soak  the  cracker  crumbs  in  the  cold  water  for  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  grate  upon  them  the  rind  of  three 
oranges,  — only  the  thin  yellow  part.  Squeeze  the  juice 
from  half  a  dozen  oranges,  and  add  it  to  the  mixture. 
Break  the  eggs,  separating  three  whites  from  the  rest 
and  putting  them  away  in  a  cool  place.  Put  the  butter 
in  a  warm  bowl,  and  beat  it  until  soft  and  creamy ;  then 
gradually  add  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  (except  the 
reserved  whites)  until  light  and  frothy,  and  add  them  to 
the  sugar  and  butter.  Stir  this  into  the  orange  and 
cracker  mixture.  Butter  a  pudding-dish  holding  two 
quarts  and  a  pint,  and  pour  the  pudding  into  it.  Bake 
for  an  hour  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

When  the  hour  has  passed,  beat  the  remaining  whites 
of  eggs  to  a  light,  dry  froth  ;  then,  with  a  spoon,  beat  in 
the  three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Spread 
this  covering  over  the  pudding,  and  return  the  dish  to  the 
oven.  Cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  with  the  door  partly 
open ;  close  it  at  the  end  of  that  time  until  the  meringue 
gets  brown.  It  should  become  sufficiently  colored  in 
three  minutes.  Set  the  pudding  away  to  cool,  and  have 
it  perfectly  cold  when  it  is  served. 


*  Use  six  large  oranges,  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  one  quart  of 
milk,  three  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Peel  the  oranges,  and  slice  them  thin,  cutting  down 
instead  of  across.  Add  the  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
and  let  the  fruit  stand  for  an  hour. 

Reserve  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the 
rest  into  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  corn-starch  with  the 
cold  milk,  and  after  adding  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and 
the  salt,  beat  the  mixture  thoroughly ;  then  stir  into  the 


PUDDINGS.  661 


boiling  milk,  and  cook  for  eight  minutes,  stirring  fre- 
quently. When  it  is  done,  let  it  cool ;  then  spread  a  thin 
layer  in  a  pudding-dish,  and  spread  upon  it  a  layer  of 
orange.  Continue  placing  these  alternate  layers  until  all 
the  materials  are  used. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and 
beat  into  this  froth  three  spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Spread  this  mixture  on  the  pudding.  Set  the  dish  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  cook,  with  the  door  open,  for  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  cold. 

*  New  York  Rice  Pudding. 

Use  half  a  cupful  of  rice,  a  pint  of  water,  a  quart  of 
milk,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  corn-starch,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  such  flavoring  as  you  please. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  waters,  and  soak  it  half  an  hour 
in  cold  water ;  then  pour  off  this,  and  add  fresh  water, 
and  let  the  dish  stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  range 
until  it  becomes  blood  warm.  Now  pour  off  the  water 
again,  and  add  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Cook  the  pudding 
in  a  double-boiler  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  a  pint  of 
the  cold  milk,  and  when  the  dish  begins  to  boil  —  say  in 
fifteen  minutes  —  add  the  corn-starch,  mixed  with  half  a 
cupful  of  the  remaining  milk.  After  ten  minutes'  cook- 
ing add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and  the  sugar,  salt,  and 
flavoring.  The  latter  may  be  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or 
lemon  extract,  or  a  light  grating  of  nutmeg.  Stir  well, 
and  after  turning  into  a  pudding-dish,  bake  for  twenty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  cold. 

*Rice  Balls  with  Soft  Custard. 

After  washing  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three  waters,  and 
soaking  it  for  an  hour  in  cold  water,  pour  off  the  latter, 
and  add  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  milk  to  the  rice.  Put 
on  to  cook  in  the  double-boiler.  At  the  end  of  an  hour 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  cook  half  an  hour  longer.  Dip 


662          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

small  custard  cups  into  cold  water,  and  then  fill  them 
with  cooked  rice,  and  set  where  it  will  get  wholly  cold. 
At  serving-time  turn  the  mounds  of  rice  out  upon  a  flat 
dish ;  and  after  putting  a  bit  of  bright  jelly  on  each  one, 
pour  soft  custard  around  all. 

To  Make  the  Custard.  —  Put  a  quart  of  milk  over  the 
fire  in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch  with  five  of  cold  milk,  and  when  the  milk  in  the 
boiler  begins  to  boil,  stir  this  mixture  into  it,  and  cook 
ten  minutes.  Meanwhile  beat  together  four  eggs  and 
half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  after  pouring  the  boiling 
mixture  over  this,  cook  the  custard  in  the  boiler  for  five 
minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Kernove  from  the  fire, 
and  add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  large 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  lemon  extract. 

This  is  a  cheap  and  good  custard,  but  not,  of  course,  so 
good  as  if  made  chiefly  of  eggs. 

The  rice  may  be  served  hot,  and  the  custard  cold. 

*  Flummery. 

This  is  a  pudding  made  of  a  quart  of  milk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
generous  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  the  whites  of 
four  eggs,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  re- 
mainder on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  corn- 
starch  with  the  half-cupful  of  cold  milk,  and  stir  the 
mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Add  the  salt,  and  beat 
thoroughly ;  then  cover,  and  cook  for  twelve  minutes, 
stirring  twice  in  that  time. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add 
the  sugar  to  them ;  and  when  the  pudding  has  cooked 
for  twelve  minutes,  add  the  whites  to  it.  Add  also  the 
vanilla  extract,  and  beat  all  the  ingredients  together. 
Rinse  a  mould  with  cold  water,  and,  pouring  the  mixture 
into  it,  set  it  in  a  cool  place.  Serve  with  soft  custard 


PUDDINGS.  663 


made  of  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one-tenth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract ;  or,  in  case  the 
Whites  of  eggs  left  from  some  other  dish  in  which  the 
yolks  were  used  be  taken  for  this  pudding,  serve  sugar 
and  cream  instead  of  soft  custard. 

*  Cream  Pudding. 

This  is  simple,  but  delicious.  The  materials  are :  a 
quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  wine  or  fruit  juice. 

First  beat  the  eggs.  Mix  the  flour  with  the  salt,  and 
half  a  cupful  of  the  milk.  Put  the  remainder  of  the 
milk  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler,  and  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  boil,  stir  in  the  flour.  Add  the  eggs,  and  cook 
for  five  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  pour  into  a 
pudding-dish.  Sprinkle  over  it  the  sugar,  and  then  pour 
upon  it  the  wine  or  fruit  juice.  Set  in  a  cool  place  for 
three  hours  or  more.  It  should  be  perfectly  cold  when 
served. 

*  Leche   Crema. 

This  pudding  may  be  eaten  either  warm,  or  cold,  but 
is  best  perfectly  cold.  It  is  made  of  a  quart  of  milk, 
five  level  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three-fourths  of  a  cup- 
ful of  powdered  sugar,  four  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  cinnamon,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  grated  chocolate,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  rest 
into  the  double-boiler.  Mix  the  flour  with  the  milk  that 
was  reserved.  Beat  together  the  eggs,  salt,  and  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  add  the  flour  and  milk  to 
them.  Stir  this  compound  into  the  boiling  milk,  and 
cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  often. 

While   the   pudding  is   cooking,  mix   the   cinnamon. 


664          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

grated  chocolate,  and  the  remainder  of  the  sugar.  When 
the  pudding  is  cooked,  add  the  vanilla,  and  rub  the  pud- 
ding through  a  strainer  into  a  pudding-dish.  Spread  the 
chocolate  mixture  on  top,  and  place  in  the  oven  for  ten- 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  set  away  to  cool, 
unless  the  pudding  is  to  be  served  hot. 

*  Oatmeal  Pudding. 

Stir  one  cupful  of  oatmeal  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
into  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  two  hours  ; 
then  add  one  generous  pint  of  milk,  and  cook  for  thirty 
minutes  longer.  Turn  into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to 
cool. 

The  oatmeal  may  be  cooked  in  the  double-boiler,  and 
will  then  require  one-third  less  water. 

*  Cold   Farina  Pudding. 

Use  one  quart  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  farina.  Mix  the  farina,  salt,  and 
half  a  cupful  of  the  milk.  Heat  the  remainder  of  the 
milk  to  the  boiling-point,  and  stir  the  farina  into  it.  Cook 
for  one  hour;  then  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  lemon  flavor,  or  a  little 
nutmeg.  Turn  into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

The  sugar  and  flavor  may  be  omitted,  and  one  tumbler 
of  jelly  stirred  in  instead.  When  the  pudding  is  cold, 
serve  with  sugar  and  milk. 

*  Snow  Pudding. 

The  ingredients  are  :  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  one 
lemon,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
corn-starch,  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  the  whites  of 
four  eggs. 

Put  the  boiling  water  into  the  double-boiler,  with 
lemon  juice  and  sugar.  Add  the  corn-starch,  which  has 
been  mixed  with  the  cold  water.  Cook  for  ten  minutes. 


PUDDINGS.  665 


Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  after 
removing  the  boiling  mixture  from  the  fire,  add  them  to 
it.  Put  into  moulds  to  cool.  Serve  with  a  soft  custard, 
made  of  one  pint  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  the  four  eggs,  one 
whole  egg,  and  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Beat 
the  eggs  and  sugar  together ;  add  the  milk  to  them,  and 
stir  into  the  double-boiler  until  the  mixture  begins  to 
thicken.  When  it  looks  as  thick  at  the  edge  of  the 
spoon  as  in  the  centre,  it  is  done.  Flavor  with  lemon  or 
vanilla,  and  serve  cold. 


SAUCES. 


Brandy   Sauce. 

After  beating  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually 
beat  into  it  two  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  ;  then  slowly 
add  a  gill  of  brandy.  Set  the  bowl  in  which  the  mixing 
has  been  done  into  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir 
the  sauce  until  it  begins  to  grow  creamy,  —  say  for  about 
two  minutes.  Grate  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg  over 
it.  Turn  into  a  hot  sauce-dish,  and  send  to  the  table 
with  the  pudding. 

Wine  Sauce. 

Beat  a  cupful  of  butter  till  it  is  creamy ;  then  grad- 
ually beat  into  it  two  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
when  this  is  done,  add  a  gill  of  sherry  by  spoonfuls. 
Beat  the  mixture  until  it  becomes  a  smooth,  light  froth ; 
then  set  the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir 
for  a  minute  and  a  half.  Have  the  sauce  bowl  or  boat 
heated  by  means  of  boiling  water.  When  the  sauce  is 
finished,  empty  the  bowl  of  water  and  put  the  sauce  into 
it.  Grate  a  nutmeg  —  that  is,  a  part  of  one  —  over  the 
sauce,  and  send  to  the  table  hot. 


666          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Clear  Wine  Sauce. 

Use  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  a 
pint  of  water,  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  a  quarter  of  a 
lemon,  and  half  a  cupful  of  wine. 

Put  the  sugar,  water,  lemon  rind,  and  nutmeg  in  a 
stew-pan,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  then  remove 
the  lemon,  and  finish  the  work  by  adding  the  wine. 

A  good  sauce  may  be  made  by  using  cider  or  orange 
juice  instead  of  wine.  In  case  cider  be  taken,  no  water 
should  be  used,  —  just  a  pint  of  cider,  cooked  with  the 
other  ingredients,  as  directed  above. 

Cold  Sauce. 

Beat  half  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually 
beat  into  it  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Flavor  with 
anything  you  please.  If  wine,  use  three  table-spoonfuls 
—  to  be  beaten  in  gradually ;  if  lemon  or  vanilla  ex- 
tract, a  scant  teaspoonful.  Or  the  rind  and  juice  of  a 
fresh  lemon  may  be  used.  As  soon  as  the  sauce  is 
beaten  to  a  cream,  and  the  seasoning  is  added,  it  should 
be  heaped  lightly  and  roughly  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is 
to  be  served,  and  placed  in  the  ice-chest  until  serving- 
time. 

Brown  Cap  Sauce. 

Beat  half  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream ;  then  grad- 
ually beat  into  it  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  When 
the  mixture  becomes  light  and  creamy,  beat  into  it  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Set  the  bowl  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  for  two  minutes. 

Cream  Sauce. 

This  sauce,  which  should  be  served  hot,  is  made  by 
putting  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water  into  a  saucepan,  and  boiling  rapidly  for  a  quarter 


PUDDINGS.  667 


of  an  hour ;  beating  a  cupful  of  rich  cream  with  a  whisk 
or  fork,  and  gradually  beating  it  into  the  boiling  syrup, 
at  the  end  of  the  quarter  of  an  hour ;  and  finally  flavor- 
ing with  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

*  Egg  Sauce. 

After  beating  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry 
froth,  put  aside  the  beater,  and  with  a  silver  spoon 
gradually  beat  into  the  whites  a  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  lemon  extract, 
or  if  you  prefer,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine ;  then  stir 
in  the  yolks  of  the  three  eggs.  If  the  work  be  properly 
done,  a  delicious  sauce  will  be  the  result. 

There  must  be  no  failure  to  beat  the  whites  until  they 
are  stiff  and  dry,  nor  to  beat  in  the  powdered  sugar  grad- 
ually, and  with  a  spoon.  This  sauce  should  be  used 
immediately ;  it  will  not  do  to  let  it  stand. 

Golden  Sauce. 

Beat  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and 
gradually  beat  into  it  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Add 
the  unbeaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  after  beating  the 
mixture  vigorously,  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  wine. 
Have  the  whites  of ,  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
stir  them  into  the  beaten  mixture.  Set  the  bowl  in  a 
pan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  constantly  for  five  minutes. 
Use  at  once. 

A  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  or  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  may  be  substituted  for  the  wine. 

*  Lemon  Sauce. 

Mix  a  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  with  a  quarter  of 
a  cupful  of  water.  Stir  this  mixture  into  a  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  for  two  minutes ;  then  add  the 
juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and 


668          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

cook  three  minutes  longer.  Beat  an  egg  very  light,  and 
pour  the  boiling  mixture  over  it.  Return  to  the  fire, 
and  cook  a  minute  longer,  stirring  all  the  while. 

*  Use  a  lemon,  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  two  cupf uls 
of  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar,  and  one 
egg- 

Mix  the  salt,  cream-of-tartar,  and  corn-starch  with 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Pour  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
boiling  water  upon  this  mixture  and  place  the  saucepan 
over  the  fire.  Now  add  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon, 
cut  in  thin  shavings,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

Beat  the  white  of  the  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  gradually 
beat  into  it,  first  the  sugar,  next  the  juice  of  the  lemon, 
and  finally  the  yolk  of  the  egg.  Strain  the  boiling  mix- 
ture upon  this  one,  and  use  the  sauce  at  once. 

When  eggs  are  cheap  use  two  or  three,  as  they  make 
the  sauce  very  thick  and  handsome. 

Lemon  Cream  Sauce. 

.  Beat  half  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually 
beat  into  it  one  cupful  and  a  quarter  of  powdered  sugar. 
When  the  mixture  is  perfectly  smooth  and  creamy,  add 
the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice.  Beat  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  add  a 
slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Now  place  the  bowl  in  a  pan 
of  boiling  water,  and  stir  the  contents  for  two  minutes. 
Take  from  the  fire  immediately,  and  turn  into  a  warm 
sauce-dish. 

Sabayon  Sauce. 

Beat  together  in  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar  and  the  yolks  of  six  eggs.  Beat  until  very  light, 
and  then  add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine.  Continue 
beating  for  three  minutes  longer.  Now  pla.es  the  sauce- 


PUDDINGS.  669 


pan  in  another  containing  boiling  water,  and  cook  for 
six  minutes,  beating  all  the  time.  Serve  the  sauce  at 
once. 

The  rind  and  juice  of  an  orange  or  lemon  can  be  used 
instead  of  the  wine.  This  sauce  is  nice  with  any  kind 
of  hot  pudding. 

*  Cinnamon   Sauce. 

Put  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  one  of  boiling  water  into  a 
small  saucepan,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon  about  four 
inches  long,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Re- 
move the  cinnamon,  and  the  sauce  is  finished. 

Or,  instead  of  the  stick  cinnamon,  use  a  quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  ground  spice.  This  gives  a  stronger 
flavor  and  darker  color  to  the  sauce. 

*  Nutmeg  Sauce. 

Mix  together  in  a  saucepan  one  heaping  table-spoonful 
of  corn-starch  and  one  cupful  of  cold  water.  Pour  over 
this  mixture  one  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  place  over 
the  fire.  Stir  occasionally  until  it  boils  up;  then  add 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one-third  of  a  grated  nutmeg.  Simmer  for  half  an 
hour;  and  after  adding  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
strain,'  and  serve  hot. 

*  Strawberry  Sauce. 

Mash  a  quart  of  strawberries  over  which  a  cupful  of 
sugar  has  been  poured.  Let  the  fruit  stand  for  two  or 
three  hours.  Ten  minutes  before  serving-time  put  it 
into  a  stew-pan  and  on  the  fire.  It  should  be  heated 
simply  to  the  boiling-point,  and  will  then  be  ready  for 
use. 

Rub  through  a  fine  sieve  enough  preserved  strawberries 
to  make  half  a  cupful,  and  stir  the  preserve  into  a  quart 


670          MISS  PAELOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  whipped  cream.  This  is  all  the  work  required  to  pro- 
duce a  delicious  sauce.  It  is  well,  of  course,  when  you 
are  to  use  it  with  imperial  pudding,  to  whip  the  cream 
for  the  sauce  at  the  same  time  you  whip  that  for  the 
pudding,  —  while  the  rice  is  cooking,  —  and  put  it  into 
the  ice-chest.  A  part  of  the  cream  will  become  liquid, 
but  may  be  returned  to  a  bowl  and  whipped  again. 
Easpberry  preserve  may  be  used  for  a  sauce  like  this. 


Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  (those  left  when  making 
corn-starch  pudding  may  be  used)  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth, 
and  gradually  beat  in  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar 
and  half  a  cupful  of  preserved  strawberries. 

In  case  you  have  no  strawberries,  a  nice  sauce  for  the 
pudding  may  be  made  by  substituting  a  table-spoonful  of 
wine  or  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  or  vanilla  extract.  In 
that  case  use  a  cupful,  instead  of  half  a  cupful,  of 
sugar. 

Put  a  pint  of  boiling  water  in  a  stew-pan.  Mix  a 
heaping  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  with  one-third  of  a 
cupful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  water. 
Simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  add  a  pint  of 
strawberry  preserve,  and  after  stirring  well,  the  sauce 
will  be  ready  for  use. 

If  canned  strawberries  be  used,  cook  a  cupful  of  sugar 
with  the  water  and  corn-starch. 


*  Molasses  Sauce. 

Put  one  cupful  of  water  and  half  a  cupful  of  molasses 
on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Mix  one  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  with  four  of  water 
and  one  of  vinegar.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  boiling 
molasses  and  water.  Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer. 


PUDDINGS.  671 


*  Chocolate    Sauce. 

Use  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  one  piiit  of  milk,  two 
eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch,  one  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  extract,  and  two  ounces  of  chocolate. 

Reserve  three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  put  the 
remainder  on  the  stove  in  the  double-boiler.  Mix  the 
corn-starch  with  the  cold  milk,  and  stir  it  into  the  boil- 
ing milk.  Scrape  the  chocolate,  and  put  it  into  a  small 
frying-pan,  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar  and 
two  of  hot  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth  and 
glossy ;  then  stir  into  the  boiling  mixture. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and 
gradually  beat  the  sugar  into  this  froth;  then  add  the 
unbeaten  yolks,  and  stir  this  mixture  into  that  which 
is  boiling.  Cook  for  a  minute  longer,  stirring  all  the 
while.  On  taking  it  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla  extract, 
and  pour  into  a  sauce-dish  or  a  small  pitcher.  Serve  hot 
or  cold  on  the  pudding. 

This  sauce  is  an  especially  nice  accompaniment  for 
cold  corn-starch  pudding.  It  should  be  served  cold  when 
used  for  that  purpose. 


Use  one  pint  of  milk,  four  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  ounce  of  scraped  chocolate,  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Put  all  the  milk  but  half  a  cupful  on  to  boil.  Put  the 
chocolate,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  the  water 
into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  a 
smooth  and  glossy  mixture  is  formed;  then  stir  that 
mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Beat  together  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  salt,  and  remainder  of  the  sugar,  and  after 
adding  the  cold  milk,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  double- 
boiler,  and  cook  until  it  thickens,  stirring  all  the  while. 
From  four  to  five  minutes'  cooking  will  be  needed.  Add 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  set 


672          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  sauce  away  to  cool.     At  serving-time  turn  the  pud- 
ding out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  around  it. 

The  sauce  will  be  much  improved  if  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream  be  stirred  into  it  at  serving-time. 

Iced  Madeira  Sauce. 

The  materials  are :  the  juice  of  one  orange,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  one  gill  of  Madeira,  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  of  water. 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  in  a  stew-pan,  and  boil  rapidly 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  half  the  syrup  to  the  fruit 
juice  and  wine,  and  let  the  remainder  boil  for  five 
minutes  longer. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and 
gradually  beat  into  it  the  hot  syrup.  Beat  for  about 
three  minutes  after  the  last  of  the  syrup  has  been  put 
in,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place.  Freeze  the  fruit  and 
wine  preparation  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  the  meringue, 
and  beat  well  with  the  spoon.  Cover  the  freezer,  and 
set  away  until  serving-time. 

This  sauce  may  be  served  with  Marquise  and  frozen 
puddings,  iced  rice  a  1'Imperatrice,  Nesselrode,  and  other 
frozen  puddings. 

Iced  Champagne  Sauce. 

Substitute  half  a  pint  of  champagne  for  the  Madeira, 
and  make  the  same  as  the  sauce  just  described. 

Iced  Rum  Sauce. 

Use  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  two  oranges,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  rum,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  of  water, 
and  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Make  the  same  as  Madeira 
sauce. 

Iced  Orange  Sauce. 

Boil  together,  for  ten  minutes,  one  cupful  of  water, 
half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  two 


PUDDINGS.  678 


oranges.      Add  to   this   preparation   the  juice   of   four 
oranges.     Cool  and  freeze. 

Boil  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  with  three  of  water 
for  two  minutes.  Beat  this  into  the  white  of  one  egg- 
that  has  been  beaten  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Stir  this 
meringue  into  the  frozen  mixture,  and  the  sauce  will  be 
ready  to  serve. 


43 


674          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION 


DESSERT. 


FROZEN    DISHES. 

DURING  hot  weather  dessert  should  be  as  light  and 
cooling  as  possible.  Nothing  gives  so  much  general 
satisfaction  as,  or  is  more  healthful  than,  frozen  dishes. 
Almost  everything  in  the  way  of  fruit  can  be  frozen,  and 
the  variety  of  ice-creams  that  can  be  made  is  too  great 
for  enumeration.  Once  get  into  the  way  of  preparing  ices, 
and  the  work  will  seem  as  simple  as  that  for  the  produc- 
tion of  almost  any  other  dessert,  and  the  cost  will  be 
found  less  than  one  is  likely  to  imagine.  There  is  a 
right  way  and  there  is  a  wrong  way  to  do  everything ; 
follow  the  directions  given  in  this  chapter  for  pack- 
ing and  freezing,  and  you  will  have  no  difficulty  in 
attaining  success. 

The  simplest  kind  of  ice-cream  is  that  made  only  of 
cream,  sugar,  and  flavoring.  A  quart  of  cream  mixed 
with  a  small  cupful  of  sugar  and  two-thirds  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  lemon,  or  orange  extract  will  give  a 
very  satisfactory  dish.  Or  a  quart  of  strawberries  may 
be  sprinkled  with  a  pint  of  sugar,  mashed,  and  allowed 
to  stand  two  hours;  then  put  with  a  quart  of  cream, 
rubbed  through  a  strainer,  and  frozen. 

Almost  any  kind  of  fruit  can  be  made  very  sweet,  and 
frozen  with  water.  The  average  proportions  would  be 
one  pint  of  sugar  to  three  pints  of  fresh  fruit,  or  a  quart 
of  canned  fruit,  and  one  quart  of  water.  The  juice  of 
any  fruit  can  be  combined  with  water  and  sugar,  and  then 
frozen.  The  more  acid  the  fruit,  the  less  the  quantity 


DESSERT. 


675 


required.  For  example,  the  juice  of  five  large  lemons,  a 
pint  of  sugar,  and  a  quart  of  water  will  make  lemon 
sherbet,  but  for  orange  sherbet  ten  oranges  are  needed. 

Some  preparation  is  necessary  for  the  freezing.  The 
ice  must  be  broken  into  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  pint 
bowl,  and  then  put  into  a  canvas  bag,  and  pounded  with 
a  mallet  until  these  pieces 
are  reduced  to  the  size  of 
a  bird's  egg,  or  entirely 
crushed.  After  adjusting  in 
the  freezer  the  can  contain- 
ing the  liquid,  pack  around 
the  can  a  layer  of  ice  five 
inches  deep.  Sprinkle  this 
freely  with  rock  salt.  Con- 
tinue putting  in  these  alter- 

,  „    .  -I       -I.  Mallet  and  Ice-bag, 

nate  layers  of  ice  and  salt 

until  the  can  is  full,  pounding  the  packing  with  a  paddle 
or  stick  of  wood  each  time  that  salt  is  added.  Turning 
the  crank  a  few  times  will  cause  the  ice  to  settle,  and  a 
little  more  should  be  added.  Never  draw  off  the  water 
which  forms  in  the  tub,  because  it  fills  every  crevice  and 
gives  the  can  a  complete  cold  envelope.  For  a  gallon 
freezer  there  will  be  needed  about  ten  quarts  of  ice  and 
three  pints  of  salt.  By  using  more  salt  the  work  may 
be  done  more  quickly,  but  the  cream  will  not  be  so 
smooth.  At  first  the  crank  should  not  be  turned  fast,  but 
the  speed  should  be  increased  as  the  cream  grows  hard. 

When  the  cream  is  finished,  carefully  wipe  the  bits  of 
ice  and  salt  from  the  cover  of  the  can,  and  remove  the 
cover  without  displacing  the  can.  Kemove  the  beater, 
scraping  the  cream  from  it,  and  work  a  large  spoon  up 
and  down  in  the  can  until  the  space  left  by  withdrawing 
the  beater  is  filled,  and  the  cream  is  light.  Keplace  the 
cover,  putting  a  cork  into  the  hole  from  which  the  trunk 
of  the  beater  was  taken,  and  set  the  freezer  aside  for  a 
while,  —  being  careful,  however,  that  it  is  kept  in  a  cool 


676          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

place,  and  that  the  can  is  covered  with  ice,  and  a  piece 
of  carpet  or  a  blanket  thrown  over  it. 

When  serving-time  comes,  take  the  can  from  the  tub, 
and  place  it  for  a  few  seconds  —  ten  should  be  enough  — 
in  a  pan  of  tepid  water,  and  the  heat  will  cause  the 
cream  to  slip  out  easily  upon  a  dish.  If  the  can  be 
placed  in  cold  water  it  will  take  considerably  longer,  but 
the  cream  will  come  out  smoother  and  firmer.  If  a  large 
cooking-spoon  be  dipped  for  an  instant  into  hot  water 
when  the  cream  is  served,  the  cream  may  be  taken  from 
the  freezer  in  smooth,  egg-shaped  portions,  pleasing  to 
the  eye. 

If  the  cream  is  to  be  moulded,  it  should  be  removed 
from  the  freezer  when  the  beater  is  taken  out ;  and  when 
it  is  put  into  the  mould,  it  should  be  worked  up  and 
down  with  a  spoon,  so  that  every  part  of  the  mould  shall 
be  filled.  Place  a  sheet  of  white  paper  over  it  before 
putting  on  the  cover,  and  then  bury  the  mould  in  fresh 
ice  and  salt. 

If  the  mould  is  to  stand  in  the  salt  and  ice  for  many 
hours,  cut  a  strip  of  paper  or  cloth  to  fit  round  the  cover 
where  it  joins  the  mould ;  spread  this  with  soft  butter 
or  sweet  mutton-tallow,  and  fasten  it  where  the  cover 
and  mould  join.  This  will  keep  out  the  salt  water. 
Remove  this,  and  wipe  carefully  before  taking  off  the 
cover. 

Philadelphia  Ice-cream. 

Genuine  Philadelphia  ice-cream  is  understood  to  be  a 
composition  of  pure  cream,  sugar,  and  flavor.  The  cream 
may  be  rich  or  thin,  but  milk  of  poor  quality  will  not 
answer.  If  the  cream  be  exceeding  rich  it  may  be  diffi- 
cult to  freeze  and  may  contain  grains  of  butter;  so  it 
should  be  made  cold,  before  any  other  work  is  done,  by 
keeping  it  in  a  pan  of  ice-water  for  half  an  hour.  The 
cream  furnished  by  city  milkmen  is  not  likely  to  be 
found  too  rich,  but  when  one  is  supplied  by  a  Jersey  cow 
it  is  best  to  use  half  milk  and  half  cream. 


DESSERT.  B77 


To  make  ice-cream,  mix  three  pints  of  cream,  a  gen- 
erous half -pint  of  sugar,  and  the  flavor;  and  after 
letting  the  mixture  stand  for  twenty  minutes  in  the 
freezer,  carefully  packed  in  ice  and  salt,  turn  the  crank 
for  twenty  minutes.  The  cream  will  then  be  hard  and 
smooth.  If  vanilla  be  the  flavor  chosen,  use  a  scant 
table-spoonful ;  if  lemon,  use  a  little  more  than  half  a 
table-spoonful.  Or,  instead  of  using  lemon  extract,  one 
may  put  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons  into  a 
stew-pan  with  the  half-pint  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of 
water,  and  after  boiling  for  ten  minutes,  strain  the  syrup, 
cool  it,  and  add  it  to  the  plain  cream.  Of  course,  other 
flavors  besides  lemon  and  vanilla  may  be  used. 

Arrowroot  Ice-cream. 

For  a  gallon  of  ice-cream  use  one  quart  of  milk,  two 
quarts  of  cream,  one  pint  of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
arrowroot,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  vanilla.  Any  other 
flavor,  however,  may  be  used. 

Mix  the  arrowroot  with  one  cupful  of  the  milk,  and 
put  the  remainder  of  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler. 
When  it  boils,  stir  in  the  arrowroot  and  cook  ten  minutes, 
stirring  frequently.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  sugar, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  cream  and 
flavor,  and  freeze. 

Gelatine  Ice-cream. 

For  a  gallon  of  ice-cream  use  two  quarts  of  cream,  one 
quart  of  milk,  one  pint  of  sugar,  half  a  package  of  gela- 
tine, and  any  flavor  one  may  choose.  This  quantity 
would  require  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  vanilla 
extract,  or  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  or  orange  extract, 
two  ounces  of  chocolate,  and  like  quantities  for  other 
flavors. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  cupful  of 
milk.  Heat  one  cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  the  soaked  gela- 


678         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

tine  and  sugar  into  it.  Stir  for  a  minute,  and  then  turn 
this  into  the  remainder  of  the  milk.  Strain,  and  cool. 
Whip  the  cream,  and  add  it  to  the  cooled  preparation. 
Put  it  into  the  freezer,  and  pack  and  freeze. 

Chocolate  Ice-cream. 

Use  one  quart  of  cream,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk, 
four  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  and 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  chocolate,  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Put  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler,  and  place  on  the 
fire.  Beat  together  the  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  the  sugar, 
and  the  eggs.  When  light,  stir  them  into  the  boiling 
milk,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
Scrape  the  chocolate,  and  put  it  into  a  small  saucepan 
with  the  three  remaining  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth 
and  glossy,  and  add  this  to  the  cooked  mixture.  Set 
away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  cream,  and  freeze. 

Any  other  flavor  may  be  used  for  this  cream. 

Coffee  Ice-cream. 

Use  two  quarts  of  cream,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling 
water,  a  pint  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  coffee,  ground 
fine,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs. 

Make  the  coffee  in  a  small  biggin,  using  the  dry  coffee 
and  boiling  water.  Put  the  filtered  coffee  and  sugar  into 
a  saucepan,  and  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  then  beat  them  into  the 
syrup.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  beat  for  three  minutes  ; 
then  beat  in  a  cupful  of  the  cream,  and  cool.  Wton 
cold,  add  the  remainder  of  the  cream,  and  freeze. 

Neapolitan  Ice-cream. 

Tor  this  there  will  be  required  one  quart  of  milk,  one 
quart  of  cream,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  strawberry  or 


DESSERT.  679 


raspberry  juice,  one  ounce  of  chocolate,  one  table-spoonful 
of  vanilla,  one  pint  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  dissolved  cochineal. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  three  gills  of  the  sugar 
together,  and  add  half  a  cupful  of  milk  to  them.  Put 
the  remainder  of  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler,  and 
place  on  the  fire.  When  the  milk  boils,  pour  it  on  the 
egg  mixture ;  pour  this  into  the  double-boiler,  and  cook 
for  four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Take  from  the 
fire,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  vanilla 
and  the  cream.  Freeze  for  twenty  minutes. 

Have  a  tub  in  which  will  fit  a  three-quart  mould;  a 
brick  or  melon  mould  is  best  for  this  kind  of  cream. 
Have  salt  and  ice  ready  for  packing. 

Scrape  the  chocolate,  and  put  it  into  a  small  saucepan, 
with  a  gill  of  sugar  and  one  table-spoonful  of  water.  Stir 
over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth  and  glossy ;  then  add  two 
more  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  set  back  where  the 
mixture  will  not  cook  any  more.  Put  one-third  of  the 
frozen  cream  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  the  dissolved  chocolate 
into  it.  When  perfectly  smooth,  pack  it  in  the  mould, 
and  pack  ice  and  salt  about  the  mould. 

Put  half  of  the  remaining  vanilla  cream  on  the  mix- 
ture in  the  mould.  Add  the  cochineal  to  the  fruit  juice, 
and  beat  this  into  the  remainder  of  the  frozen  cream. 
Spread  this  on  the  other  creams  in  the  mould.  Cover 
closely,  and  set  away  for  an  hour  or  more.  It  will  be 
better  if  the  mould  of  cream  can  stand  for  two  or  three 
hours. 

Biscuit  Ice-cream. 

Use  two  quarts  of  whipped  and  drained  cream,  four 
eggs,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  three-fourths  of 
a  cupful  of  water,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  twenty-five  min- 
utes. Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth, 
and  gradually  beat  into  them  the  hot  syrup.  Beat  the 


680          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

yolks  well,  and  add  them  to  the  whites  and  syrup.  Place 
the  saucepan  in  another  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
cook  for  ten  minutes,  beating  all  the  while.  Set  the 
preparation  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  vanilla, 
and  mix  the  cream  in  lightly.  Pack  and  freeze  the 
same  as  a  mousse.  It  will  take  three  or  four  hours  to 
harden. 

Instead  of  the  vanilla,  any  of  the  following-named 
flavors  may  be  added  :  four  table.-spoonfuls  of  wine,  one 
teaspoonful  of  rum,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  Maraschino. 

The  mould  for  a  biscuit  ice-cream  may  be  lined  with  a 
sherbet,  the  same  as  for  a  mousse. 

Chestnut  Ice-cream. 

Use  two  quarts  of  cream,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar, 
the  juice  and  rind  of  an  orange,  a  cupful  of  water,  a  gill 
of  wine,  thirty  French  chestnuts. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  chestnuts,  cover  them  with  boil- 
ing water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  the 
water,  pound  the  chestnuts  in  a  mortar,  and  then  rub 
them  through  a  puree-sieve.  Put  the  sugar,  grated 
orange  rind,  and  water  in  a  stew-pan,  and  place  on  the 
fire.  Boil  for  twenty  minntes  ;  add  the  chestnut  puree, 
and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer.  Take  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  orange  juice  and  wine.  When  cold,  add 
the  cream,  and  freeze.  The  wine  and  orange  may  be 
omitted. 

Peach  Ice-cream. 

For  about  two  quarts  of  frozen  cream  use  one  quart  of 
sweet  cream,  one  generous  pint  of  ripe  peaches,  pared, 
mashed,  and  strained,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  almond  extract. 

Mix  the  sugar  with  the  strained  peaches ;  then  add  the 
cream,  beating  it  in  gradually.  Now  add  the  almond 
extract,  and  freeze. 


DESSERT.  681 


Here  is  another  receipt :  Use  one  quart  of  pared  and 
quartered  peaches,  one  quart  of  cream,  one  heaping  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry. 

Mix  the  sugar,  cream,  and  sherry,  and  freeze  for  fifteen 
minutes,  in  which  time  the  mixture  should  be  smooth, 
but  not  very  hard.  Take  out  the  beater,  and  stir  in  the 
peaches.  Pack  smooth,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place  for 
an  hour  or  two.  Then  turn  out,  and  serve. 

"  Unsweetened  fruit  would  grow  very  hard  if  it  stood 
long  in  a  freezing  temperature. 

Blueberry  Ice-cream. 

Use  one  quart  of  large  ripe  blueberries,  one  quart  of 
cream,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Freeze  the  cream  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the 
beater,  and  stir  in  the  blueberries.  Pack  in  a  mould  or 
in  the  freezer,  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour  or  more. 

MOUSSES. 

A  mousse  is  a  dish  that  is  made  with  whipped  cream, 
and  frozen  without  being  stirred.  When  the  frozen 
mass  is  cut  into,  it  has  a  texture  like  the  fine  moss  found 
in  deep  woods.  Among  the  definitions  given  for  the  word 
"mousse"  are  "mossy,  froth,  foam;"  hence  the  name. 
The  dish  is  really  a  mossy  froth.  The  labor  of  preparing 
this  dish  is  slight,  but  it  takes  a  long  time  to  harden. 
In  making  a  mousse,  the  first  step  is  to  whip  the  cream 
and  drain  it,  for  if  there  be  any  liquid  cream  in  the 
mousse  it  will  not  be  perfect.  Now  pack  the  mould  in 
salt  and  ice,  using  five  pints  of  salt  for  a  gallon  mould. 
Finish  the  mousse  preparation,  and  put  it  into  the 
mould;  cover  and  set  away  for  four  or  six  hours. 
Six  hours  is  always  best.  If  the  mould  be  lined  with 
white  paper,  the  mousse  will  have  a  smoother  and  hand- 


682          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

somer  appearance  when  turned  out  on  a  dish,  but  it 
takes  a  little  longer  to  freeze.  It  is  a  great  improvement 
to  line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mould  with  a  sherbet 
that  will  combine  with  the  flavor  of  the  mousse. 

To  line  the  mould  with  the  sherbet,  have  the  sherbet 
frozen  smooth,  but  very  soft.  If  it  happens  that  it  has 
frozen  too  hard  to  spread  easily,  beat  it  in  a  bowl  until 
smooth  and  soft.  Spread  this  in  the  packed  mould,  and 
then  fill  with  the  mousse  preparation.  For  the  Nea- 
politan and  fruit  mousses,  a  lining  of  Roman  punch  is 
suitable,  though  any  of  the  fruit  sherbets  may  be  used. 
Coffee  mousse  may  have  a  lining  of  coifee  ice. 

Remember  that  a  mousse  is  not  good  unless  it  be  prop- 
erly frozen ;  and  it  is  necessary  to  begin  the  freezing 
so  early  that  there  may  be  from  four  to  six  hours  for 
freezing. 

Chocolate  Mousse. 

Pack  a  three-quart  mould  the  same  as  for  a  Neapolitan 
mousse.  Whip  a  quart  of  cream  in  the  same  manner, 
but  be  very  careful  that  no  liquid  cream  is  put  into  the 
mould.  To  guard  against  it,  drain  the  whipped  cream 
well.  Scrape  fine  an  ounce  of  chocolate,  and  put  it  into 
a  small  frying-pan,  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  one  of  boiling  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until 
smooth  and  glossy,  —  that  is,  for  about  a  minute  ;  then 
add  six  table-spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  to  it,  and  stir 
into  the  dish  of  whipped  cream.  Add  a  scant  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  stir  gently  until  the  ingredients  are  well 
mixed.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  mould,  which  has  pre- 
viously been  packed  in  salt  and  ice  until  thoroughly 
chilled,  and  cover  it ;  and  after  throwing  a  piece  of  car- 
pet over  the  tub,  set  away  in  a  cool  place  for  four  hours. 
Turn  out  the  same  as  the  Neapolitan  mousse. 

The  materials  required  are :  one  quart  of  cream,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  chocolate,  two  quarts  of 
coarse  salt,  and  about  fifteen  pounds  of  ice. 


DESSEKT.  683 


Strawberry  Mousse. 

Mash  well  in  a  bowl,  with  a  spoon,  a  quart  of  straw- 
berries and  a  pint  of  sugar.  Let  this  stand  for  two 
hours,  and  during  the  same  period  soak  a  quarter  of  a 
package  of  gelatine  in  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 
At  the  end  of  the  two  hours  pack  a  three-quart  mould 
or  a  gallon  mould  in  two  quarts  of  coarse  salt  and  enough 
ice  to  bring  the  packing  up  to  the  cover  of  the  mould. 
Rub  the  crushed  strawberries  through  a  strainer.  Pour 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  upon  the  soaked 
gelatine,  and  when  the  latter  has  become  dissolved,  put 
it  with  the  fruit.  Set  the  basin  containing  this  mixture 
in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  stir  until  the  contents  begin  to 
thicken ;  then  add  three  quarts  of  whipped  cream,  stir- 
ring gently.  When  the  mixture  is  smooth,  turn  it  into 
the  mould,  and  lay  over  it  a  sheet  of  soft  white  paper. 
Put  on  the  cover,  and  coat  the  edge  with  melted  suet, 
which  will  keep  out  the  salt  water.  Add  a  pint  of  salt 
to  the  packing,  together  with  enough  ice  to  cover  the 
mould  completely.  Let  the  mousse  stand  for  four  hours 
in  a  cold  place.  At  serving-time  remove  the  mould  from 
the  ice,  and  after  wiping  off  the  suet  and  any  particles 
of  salt,  dip  it  into  tepid  water.  In  a  moment  remove  it, 
and  wipe  it  carefully ;  then  turn  the  mousse  out  on  a 
flat  dish.  It  should  be  cut  in  smooth  slices  as  it  is 
served. 

Peach  Mousse. 

The  fruit  must  be  very  ripe.  Peel  and  slice  enough 
to  make  a  quart.  Hub  it  through  a  sieve ;  and  after 
adding  a  pint  of  sugar,  and  mixing  well,  add  two  quarts 
of  whipped  cream.  By  some  people  it  may  be  considered 
an  improvement  to  add,  also,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Ma- 
raschino or  wine.  Heap  the  mousse  lightly  in  a  three- 
quart  mould,  or  the  can  in  an  ice-cream  freezer,  which 
has  been  packed  in  salt  and  ice.  Cover  with  ice  and  a 


684          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

piece  of  an  old  blanket  or  carpet.  About  twenty  pounds 
of  ice  and  two  quarts  of  salt  will  be  required  for 
the  packing.  Let  the  mousse  stand  for  four  hours.  At 
serving-time  dip  the  mould  into  blood-warm  water  for 
a  moment,  and  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish. 

Coffee  Mousse. 

Use  half  a  cupful  of  coffee,  ground  fine,  three  gills  of 
boiling  water,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  and  four  quarts  of  whipped  and  drained  cream. 

Filter  the  coffee  in  a  small  biggin,  pouring  it  through 
the  filter  a  second  time.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and 
sugar  together,  add  the  coffee  to  them,  and  cook  in  the 
double-boiler  for  four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  place  in  a  pan  of  water  to  cool, 
stirring  frequently.  Pack  a  gallon  mould,  using  five 
pints  of  salt,  and  ice  enough  to  pack  solidly.  Mix  the 
custard  gently  with  the  whipped  and  drained  cream.  Put 
the  preparation  into  the  mould,  cover  closely,  and  put 
away  in  a  cold  place  for  from  four  to  six  hours. 

Caramel  Mousse. 

Use  three  quarts  of  whipped  and  drained  cream,  three 
gills  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  water,  one  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  milk  for  two  hours.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  put  one  gill  of  sugar  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  liquid,  and 
turns  a  dark  brown.  Now  add  the  gill  of  water,  and 
simmer  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  again,  —  it  will  take 
about  fifteen  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs  and  the  remainder 
of  the  sugar  together,  until  very  light.  Put  this  mix- 
ture into  the  double-boiler,  with  the  soaked  gelatine  and 
the  milk.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  caramel.  While  this 
mixture  is  cooling,  pack  a  plain  mould  in  salt  and  ice. 


DESSERT.  685 


Now  beat  the  cooled  mixture  until  it  is  frothy.  Should 
it  have  become  so  cold  that  it  is  jellied  before  the  mould 
is  packed,  place  it  in  a  pan  of  warm  water  for  a  minute, 
and  stir  until  it  is  liquid.  Now  beat  until  it  is  frothy ; 
gently  stir  the  whipped  cream  into  this.  When  the 
custard  and  cream  are  combined,  turn  the  mixture  gently 
into  the  mould.  Cover,  and  set  away  in  a  cold  place  for 
four  hours. 

Neapolitan  Mousse. 

The  materials  needed  for  this  dish  are :  one  quart  of 
cream,  one-third  of  a  package  of  gelatine,  one  teacupful 
of  sugar,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  half  a  pound  of 
candied  cherries,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water,  two 
quarts  of  coarse  salt,  and  about  twelve  pounds  of  ice. 

Pack  a  three-quart  mould  in  salt  and  ice.  Now  whip 
one  quart  of  cream  to  a  froth,  and  skim  it  into  a  pan 
which  is  set  in  another  of  ice-water.  When  nearly  all 
the  cream  is  whipped,  return  to  the  pail  the  cream  that 
has  turned  liquid,  and  whip  again.  When  all  the  cream 
is  whipped,  sprinkle  into  it  one  teacupful  of  sugar  and 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine.  Pour  one-third  of  a  cupful 
of  boiling  water  on  one-third  of  a  package  of  gelatine 
which  has  been  soaked  in  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  cold 
water  for  two  hours.  When  the  gelatine  is  dissolved, 
pour  it  over  the  whipped  cream,  and  stir  until  the  mix- 
ture begins  to  thicken ;  then  pour  a  portion  into  the 
mould,  and  sprinkle  in  a  layer  of  French  candied  cherries, 
cut  in  halves.  Now  pour  in  more  cream,  and  then 
use  more  cherries.  Continue  in  this  way  until  all  the 
materials  are  used.  Cover  the  mould,  throw  a  piece 
of  carpet  over  the  tub,  and  set  away  for  three  hours. 
At  serving-time  drop  the  mould  into  blood-warm  water ; 
then  wipe  it,  and  turn  on  a  flat  dish. 

In  packing,  the  mould  must  be  placed  in  a  wooden 
bucket.  A  gallon  ice-cream  freezer  answers  very  well, 
as  it  does  not  matter  if  the  mould  holds  more  than 
three  quarts. 


686          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


Biscuit  Tortoni. 

Use  a  generous  gallon  of  whipped  and  drained  cream, 
one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  one  of  water,  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  dried  and  powdered  maca- 
roons, two  table-spoonfuls  of  blanched  and  chopped 
almonds,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  two  of  candied 
cherries,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  almond 
extract. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  twenty  minutes. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  and  stir  them  into  the 
hot  syrup.  Place  the  basin  which  contains  the  syrup 
and  eggs  in  another  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  five 
minutes,  beating  all  the  while.  When  done,  set  away  to 
cool.  Put  the  powdered  macaroons  into  a  chopping-tray 
with  the  chopped  almonds ;  add  the  cherries  and  chop 
until  the  cherries  are  very  fine,  —  if  chopped  alone,  they 
would  become  sticky  and  cling  together.  Add  the  wine 
and  almond  extract  to  the  cold  egg  preparation ;  stir  this 
mixture  gently  into  the  whipped  cream,  and  sprinkle  in 
the  chopped  fruit  and  macaroons. 

Have  a  gallon  mould  or  freezer  packed  in  salt  and  ice. 
Turn  the  preparation  into  it ;  cover,  and  add  more  salt 
and  ice,  and  place  a  piece  of  carpet  or  blanket  over  the 
tub.  Set  away  for  from  four  to  six  hours.  Serve  with 
an  iced  sauce. 

Use  about  five  pints  of  salt  in  packing  and  ice  enough 
to  pack  very  solidly.     The  mould  may  be  lined   with 
Koman  punch  or  sherbet  as  for  mousse.     In  that  case 
no  sauce  will  be  required. 
' 

SHERBETS. 

Sherbets  —  or  water  ices,  as  they  are  commonly  called 
—  are  made  of  fruit  juice,  sugar,  and  water.  The  simplest 
are  made  by  mixing  the  sugar,  water,  and  fruit  juice 
together.  A  richer  and  smoother  ice  is  obtained  by 


DESSERT.  687 


boiling  the  sugar  and  water  together,  then  adding  the 
fruit  juice,  and  when  the  mixture  is  cool,  freezing  it. 
It  takes  nearly  twice  as  long  to  'freeze  the  preparation 
when  made  in  this  way  as  when  made  with  the  uncooked 
mixture. 

When  sherbets  are  frozen  in  a  patent  freezer  they  are 
rather  light  and  somewhat  creamy.  Many  people  con- 
sider this  an  objection.  When  a  more  watery  appear- 
ance is  desired  the  sherbet  is  frozen  in  the  old-fashioned 
freezer,  and  stirred  and  beaten  with  a  long  wooden 
paddle,  called  a  spatula.  Whichever  way  the  sherbet 
is  frozen,  the  packing  must  be  the  same  as  for  ice- 
cream. 

Sherbets  are  usually  served  at  the  end  of  a  dinner, 
but  they  are  sometimes  served  before  the  game  instead 
of  a  sorbet  or  Roman  punch.  Sherbet  may  be  served  in 
glasses,  in  orange  baskets,  or  in  fancy  paper  cases.  It 
also  is  served  in  moulds.  Sometimes  it  is  combined 
with  ice-cream ;  the  mould  is  packed  about  one-third 
full  of  sherbet,  and  is  then  filled  with  ice-cream.  Or 
the  cream  may  be  packed  first,  and  the  layer  of  sherbet 
placed  on  top. 

Orange  Sherbet. 

Mix  together  one  pint  of  orange  juice,  the  grated 
yellow  rind  of  two  oranges,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Let  this  mixture  stand  for  one  hour  ;  add  one  quart  of 
water*and  a  pint  of  sugar ;  strain,  and  freeze. 

Or  the  sugar  and  water  may  be  boiled  together  for 
twenty  minutes,  the  strained  fruit  juice  added  to  this, 
and  when  the  preparation  is  cold,  it  may  be  frozen. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  lemon  juice  and  the  grated  yellow 
rind  of  two  lemons,  one  pint  of  sugar,  and  a  scant  quart 
of  water, 


688          MISS  FAKLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

Make  the  same  as  orange  sherbet.  Baspberry,  straw- 
berry, cherry,  and  other  sherbets  are  made  the  same  as 
the  orange  sherbet. 

Blackberry  Sherbet. 

These  are  the  ingredients  required:  three  quarts  of 
blackberries,  one  quart  of  water,  one  pint  of  sugar,  and 
the  juice  of  four  lemons. 

Mash  the  fruit  and  sugar  together,  and  let  the  mixture 
stand  for  one  hour ;  then  add  the  water,  and  place  it  on 
the  tire.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes  after  the  liquid 
begins  to  boil.  At  the  end  of  that  time  strain  and  cool ; 
and  when  cool,  freeze. 

Currant  Sherbet. 

Put  a  pint  of  sugar  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  a  pint  of  currant  juice 
and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  When  cold,  freeze. 

Roman  Punch. 

The  materials  required  are:  the  juice  of  six  large 
lemons  and  of  one  orange,  one  pint  and  a  gill  of  sugar, 
one  quart  and  a  gill  of  water,  one  gill  of  sherry,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  Jamaica  rum,  and  the  whites  of  four 
eggs. 

Boil  together  one  quart  of  water  and  one  pint  of  sugar 
for  half  an  hour ;  add  the  fruit  juice  and  set  away  to 
cool.  When  the  mixture,  is  cold,  put  one  gill  of  sugar 
and  one  gill  of  water  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  place  on 
the  fire;  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  While  the  syrup  is 
cooking,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth. 
Beat  the  hot  syrup  into  this,  pouring  it  into  the  sauce- 
pan in  a  thin  stream,  and  beating  all  the  time.  Beat 
this  mixture  for  about  four  minutes  after  all  the  syrup 
has  been  added,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

Now  pack  the  punch  mixture.      Freeze  for  twenty 


DESSERT.  689 


minutes,  turning  the  freezer  all  the  while.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  remove  the  cover  and  take  out  the  beater.  Now 
add  the  wine,  rum,  and  meringue.  Beat  well  with  a  spoon, 
mixing  the  new  ingredients  thoroughly  with  the  frozen 
preparation.  Cover,  and  set  away  until  serving-time. 
Serve  in  glasses,  if  convenient. 


The  ingredients  are :  one  quart  of  water,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  six  lemons  and  of  one  orange,  one 
gill  of  strong  green  tea,  and  a  gill  of  rum. 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  together  for  twenty  minutes  ; 
add  the  fruit  juice  and  tea,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When 
cool,  freeze ;  when  frozen,  beat  in  the  rum.  This  rule 
gives *a  much  stronger  punch  than  the  first. 

- 
.  Sorbets. 

Make  any  kind  of  sherbet  and  half  freeze  it,  and  you 
have  a  simple  sorbet.  Generally,  however,  wine,  rum,  or 
some  kind  of  cordial  is  added  when  the  mixture  has  been 
frozen.  Serve  in  glasses  before  or  after  the  roast.  The 
sorbet  should  be  frozen  only  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes. 

The  finest  kinds  of  sorbets  are  those  made  with  the 
juice  of  several  kinds  of  fruit.  Here  is  a  good  rule  :  — 

Boil  together,  for  twenty  minutes,  one  pint  of  sugar, 
one  quart  of  water,  and  one  pint  of  chopped  pineapple. 
Add  to  this  preparation  one  gill  of  lemon  juice  and  half 
a  pint  of  orange  juice.     When  cold,  strain  and  freeze. 
• 

ofair 
GRANITES. 

Granites  are  a  rough  kind  of  sorbets.  They  are  made 
of  fruit  juice,  sugar,  and  water.  When  the  small  fruits 
are  in  season,  some  of  the  whole  fruit  frequently  is  added 
to  the  frozen  preparation  when  it  is  served.  Granites 
(unlike  sherbets  or  sorbets,  which  must  have  a  smooth 
grain)  must  be  frozen  without  beating  or  even  much 


690          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

stirring,  as  the  design  is  to  have  a  rough  icy  substance. 
This  is  peculiarly  grateful  to  the  palate  in  the  midst  of 
a  dinner.  Any  kind  of  fruit  juice  may  be  used,  or  the 
juices  of  various  kinds  of  fruit  may  be  combined. 

• 
Raspberry  Granite. 

This  is  made  of  three  quarts  of  raspberries,  the  juice 
of  three  lemons,  one  pint  of  sugar,  and  a  quart  of  water. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  twenty  minutes ; 
then  add  the  lemon  juice  and  the  juice  of  two  quarts  of 
the  raspberries.  Set  the  liquid  away  to  cool,  and  mean- 
while pack  a  freezer  the  same  as  when  ice-cream  is  to  be 
made.  Pour  the  cooled  mixture  into  the  freezer,  and 
after  putting  on  the  cover,  throw  a  blanket  or  a  piece  of 
carpet  over  the  freezer,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place. 
After  an  hour  has  passed,  scrape  the  frozen  mixture  from 
the  sides  of  the  can ;  but  do  not  beat  it,  as  the  design  is 
to  have  a  mass  soft  in  some  places  and  full  of  icy  par- 
ticles in  others.  About  an  hour  and  a  half  will  be  re- 
quired for  freezing  the  dish.  At  serving-time  stir  in  the 
third  quart  of  berries,  and  send  the  granite  to  the  table 
in  sorbet  glasses. 

Orange  Granite. 

Put  a  quart  of  sugar  and  a  quart  of  boiling  water  into 
a  stew-pan,  and  set  where  they  will  boil  rapidly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Pare  twelve  large  oranges,  and  free 
them  of  every  particle  of  white  skin  ;  then  separate  them 
into  sections,  and  remove  the  seeds.  Put  the  fruit  into 
the  boiling  syrup,  and  allow  it  to  remain  over  the  fire 
for  five  minutes ;  then  remove  the  stew-pan,  and  after 
cooling  the  contents,  drain  the  syrup  into  the  tin  can  of 
the  ice-cream  freezer.  Pack  the  can  in  the  tub,  using 
powdered  ice  and  two  quarts  of  salt.  Set  away  for  three 
hours ;  but  during  that  period  open  the  can  three  times 
for  the  purpose  of  scraping  the  frozen  syrup  from  the 


DESSERT.  691 


sides.  Be  careful  not  to  stir  any  more  than  is  necessary, 
for  the  mixture  should  freeze  coarse  and  icy.  At  the  end 
of  three  hours  add  the  oranges,  and  serve  in  glasses. 

Coffee  Granite. 

Put  half  a  cupful  of  fine-ground  coffee  into  a  biggin, 
and  pour  upon  it  —  a  little  at  a  time  —  a  cupful  and  a 
half  of  boiling  water.  When  this  has  passed  through 
the  filter,  pour  it  back  and  filter  it  again.  After  the 
second  time,  set  the  coffee  away  to  cool.  Put  a  pint  of 
sugar  and  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  a  small  stew-pan, 
and  boil  the  mixture  rapidly  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Add  the  coffee  to  it,  and  set  the  liquid  away  to  cool. 
When  it  has  become  cold,  add  three  pints  of  cream,  and 
pour  into  the  can  of  an  ice-cream  freezer.  Pack  with 
fine"  ice  and  five  pints  of  salt.  When  the  dish  has  stood 
for  half  an  hour,  open  the  can  and  scrape  the  frozen 
mixture  from  the  sides,  mixing  it  with  the  soft  part. 
Continue  to  do  this  at  intervals  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
until  the  mixture  becomes  thick  and  icy.  About  an 
hour  and  a  half  will  be  needed  for  the  freezing.  Ee- 
member  that  no  beating  is  required,  as  the  dish  should 
not  be  smooth  or  creamy.  Serve  in  sorbet  glasses  in  the 
middle  of  a  luncheon  or  dinner. 

Frozen  Raspberries. 

Use  two  quarts  of  raspberries,  one  pint  of  sugar,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  one  pint  of  water. 

Mash  the  raspberries  and  sugar  together,  and  let  them 
stand  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  the 
water  and  lemon  juice.  Freeze  the  same  as  ice-cream. 

Blackberries  are  very  good  when  frozen  in  this  manner. 
The  juice  of  three  lemons  should  be  added. 

Strawberries  may  be  frozen  in  the  same  way  as  rasp- 
berries. 


692          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Frozen  Peaches. 

For  eight  persons  use  one  pint  of  sugar,  one  of  boiling 
water,  and  two  quarts  of  ripe  peaches,  pared  and  sliced. 

Put  the  water,  sugar,  and  half  a  dozen  cracked  peach 
stones  in  a  stew-pan,  and  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
then  rub  the  peaches  through  a  puree  sieve,  and  strain 
the  hot  syrup  on  them.  Stir  well,  and  then  cool.  When 
cold,  freeze. 

Apricots  and  pears  may  be  frozen  in  the  same  way  as 
peaches. 

Frozen  Apples. 

Put  two  quarts  of  water  and  a  pint  of  sugar  on  to  boil 
in  a  large  stew-pan.  Boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
then  add  ten  large  tart  apples,  pared,  quartered,  and 
cored.  Cook  until  the  fruit  will  mash  readily,  —  say 
about  half  an  hour ;  then  break  up  with  a  spoon,  and  put 
away  to  cool.  When  cold,  freeze  like  ice-cream.  The 
mixture  will  be  light  and  creamy  when  finished,  and 
makes  a  pleasing  and  cheap  dessert,  for  a  change.  But 
neither  apples,  peaches,  nor  apricots  have  character 
enough  to  afford  satisfaction  if  served  very  frequently 
in  this  way. 

The  juice  of  three  oranges  is  a  great  improvement  if 
added  to  the  mixture  before  freezing. 

FROZEN    RAW    FRUITS. 

Any  kind  of  soft  ripe  fruit  may  be  frozen  raw.  These 
fruits  are  not  to  be  frozen  hard,  so  the  time  that  they 
are  kept  in  the  freezer  must  not  exceed  two  hours.  The 
less  sugar  there  is  with  the  fruit,  the  quicker  will  it 
freeze.  These  fruits  may  be  served  at  the  beginning 
of  a  dinner  or  luncheon,  or  in  the  middle  of  a  dinner, 
instead  of  a  punch  or  sorbet.  They  are  served  also  at 
the  beginning  of  fashionable  breakfasts. 


DESSERT.  693 


Frozen  Watermelon. 

Cut  a  watermelon  into  long  strips.  Remove  the  seeds, 
and  cut  off  the  green  rind.  Now  cut  the  pieces  of  melon 
into  two-inch  squares.  Place  these  in  a  freezer,  and 
pack  in  salt  and  ice.  Let  the  fruit  stand  for  about  an 
hour,  as  it  is  not  to  be  frozen  solid.  Serve  heaped  in  a 
glass  dish. 

The  pieces  of  melon  may  be  sprinkled  with  sugar  and 
wine  when  they  are  put  in  the  freezer. 

Frozen   Cantaloupe. 

Wipe  the  melon,  cut  it  in  two  lengthwise,  and  remove 
the  seeds.  Now  cut  the  fruit  into  long  strips.  Sprinkle 
sugar  and  cinnamon  on  it,  —  one  table-spoonful  of  cin- 
namon and  six  of  sugar.  Put  these  strips  of  fruit  in'the 
freezer,  and  pack  in  salt  and  ice.  Let  the  freezer  stand 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Serve  the  cantaloupe  on  a 
napkin.  The  seasoning  may  be  omitted. 

Frozen  Oranges. 

Pare  one  dozen  sweet  Florida  oranges.  With  a  sharp 
knife,  cut  the  fruit  in  thin  slices,  beginning  at  the  stem 
end.  Sprinkle  over  these  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Put  in 
the  freezer,  and  keep  packed  in  salt  and  ice  two  hours. 

Frozen  Oranges  and  Bananas. 

Add  three  pared  and  thin-sliced  bananas  to  one  dozen 
pared  and  sliced  oranges.  Sprinkle  a  cupful  of  sugar 
over  the  fruit,  and  let  it  stand  packed  in  salt  and  ice 
for  two  hours. 

Frozen  Peaches. 

Pare  and  halve  ripe  peaches.  Over  two  quarts  sprinkle 
one  cupful  of  sugar.  Put  in  the  freezer,  and  pack  in 


694          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


salt  and  ice.    Let  them  stand  for  two  hours.     Serve  in 
a  glass  dish. 

Canned  peaches  and  apricots  may  be  frozen  in  the 
same  manner. 

DESSERT    FRUITS. 

The  ability  to  group  fruits  in  such  a  manner  that  they 
shall  be  beautiful  pictures,  as  regards  both  color  and 
form,  is  not  given  to  every  one.  It  is  only  an  artistic 
eye  and  touch  that  can  make  a  large  dish  of  mixed  fruits 
a  thing  of  beauty.  The  arrangement'of  the  fruit  is,  how- 
ever, not  all  that  is  necessary  to  make  it  refreshing  and 
satisfying.  It  should  be  of  good  quality,  and  perfectly 
ripe.  All  fresh  fruits  are  better  for  being  cold.  Water- 
melons, cantaloupes,  and  grapes  are  not  fit  to  serve  unless 
thoroughly  chilled.  All  other  fresh  fruits  are  improved 
at  least  fifty  per  cent  by  standing  in  the  refrigerator  for 
a  few  hours  before  serving-time.  Apples,  peaches,  pears, 
etc.,  should  be  wiped  with  a  soft  cloth.  Small  fruits 
never  should  be  washed,  unless  —  as  is  frequently  the 
case  with  strawberries  —  they  be  sandy.  In  that  case 
put  them  (unhulled,  if  strawberries)  into  a  wire  basket 
or  the  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  over  them.  Let 
them  drain  in  the  basket,  and  hull  them  just  before 
serving-time. 

Watermelon. 

Keep  the  melon  on  ice  at  least  twelve  hours  before  it 
is  served,  —  better  twenty-four.  Wipe  it  with  a  soft 
towel.  Cut  a  slice  from  each  end,  and  then  cut  the 
melon  in  two  across  the  centre.  Cover  a  large  flat  dish 
with  either  grape,  fig,  or  mulberry  leaves,  and  place  the 
halves  of  the  melon  on  this  green  bed.  When  cut  in 
this  manner,  the  melon  is  served  in  spoonfuls,  which 
should  be  scooped  out  symmetrically. 

Another  way  is  to  cut  off  the  ends  as  before ;  then 
cut  the  melon  in  two  in  the  centre,  having  the  dividing 


DESSERT.  695 


line  scalloped ;  the  points  of  one  part,  of  course,  fitting 
into  the  notches  of  the  other.  Then,  when  the  two  pieces 
are  placed  on  end  on  a  dish  (that  is  why  a  slice  is  cut  off 
at  the  start),  the  upper  part  of  each  will  be  prettily 
pointed.  Serve  in  long  slices. 

Still  another  way  is  to  serve  the  melon  in  round  slices. 
It  is  the  most  convenient,  but  the  least  attractive  of  the 
three  modes. 

Cantaloupe. 

Chill  the  melon,  wipe  it,  and  cut  it  in  two  lengthwise ; 
then  remove  the  seeds.  Now  cut  it  in  long  strips,  run- 
ning the  knife  in  the  grooves.  Cover  a  platter  with  fig, 
grape,  or  any  other  broad  leaves.  B  Arrange  the  pieces 
of  cantaloupe  on  this  bed,  rind  side  down.  Serve  salt 
with  the  fruit. 

Pineapple. 

Pare  the  pineapple,  and  with  the  point  of  a  knife 
cut  out  the  eyes.  Cut  the  fruit  in  thin  round  slices,  and 
chill  on  the  ice.  At  serving-time  sprinkle  with  sugar, 
and  arrange  in  a  glass  dish. 

Another  way  is  to  cut  the  fruit  into  cubes,  and  sprinkle 
with  wine,  using  one  gill  of  wine  to  a  quart  of  the  fruit. 
Chill  the  pineapple,  and  then  sprinkle  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Heap  in  a  mound  in  a  glass  dish. 
If  the  leaves  of  the  pineapple  be  green  and  pretty,  place 
them  in  the  centre  of  the  mound. 

A  gill  of  orange  juice  may  be  substituted  for  the  wine. 

Strawberries  and  Raspberries. 

Strawberries  and  raspberries  should  be  heaped  in  a 
pretty  glass  or  china  dish.  Garnish  with  some  of  their 
own  green  leaves.  Never  sprinkle  sugar  on  them.  Fine 
ripe  strawberries  are  often  served  with  the  stems  on.  In 
this  case  a  small  dish  of  powdered  sugar  must  be  served 
to  each  guest  with  the  saucer  of  strawberries.  The  straw- 


696          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

berries  are  then  taken  in  the  fingers  by  the  stem,  and 
dipped  in  the  sugar.  Only  strawberries  of  the  finest 
quality  should  be  served  in  this  manner. 

Blueberries  and  Blackberries. 

Blueberries  and  blackberries  are  always  more  effective 
in  a  pretty  china  dish  than  in  glass.  When  they  are 
served  in  glass,  garnish  the  border  with  green  leaves  if 
possible.  Some  of  the  large  plates  that  can  be  found  in 
all  the  Japanese  stores  are  nice  to  serve  these  berries 
in.  The  large  shallow  bowls  found  in  the  same  places 
also  are  appropriate  for  this  purpose. 

Oranges  and  Bananas. 

Peel  and  slice  six. oranges,  cutting  lengthwise,  and 
add  to  them  three  bananas,  peeled,  and  cut  in  thin  slices. 
Sprinkle  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Chill  in 
the  refrigerator,  and  serve  in  a  glass  dish. 

Crystallized  Fruit. 

Wipe  bunches  of  grapes  dry  and  clean,  and  pare  sweet 
oranges  and  divide  them  into  sections.  Beat  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  beat  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cold  water  into  this  froth.  Dip  the  fruit  into  it,  and 
then  roll  it  in  granulated  sugar.  Place  on  a  platter,  and 
set  in  a  warm  oven  for  three  minutes  ;  then  put  away  to 
cool. 

Any  kind  of  fruit  may  be  prepared  in  this  manner. 
Serve  in  a  fruit-dish.  If  you  have  any  green  leaves,  put 
a  few  with  the  fruit. 

Two  Ways  of  Serving  Currants. 

During  the  summer  and  fall  there  is  nothing  better 
for  dessert  than  fresh  fruit,  served  in  its  ordinary  state, 
or  with  sugar,  or  frozen,  or  in  jellies.  A  pretty  way  to 


DESSERT.  697 


serve  currants  is  to  fill  the  centre  of  a  large  glass  dish 
with  broken  ice,  and  tastefully  arrange  fresh  currant  leaves 
around  the  ice,  making  a  handsome  bed  on  which  to  place 
bunches  of  the  fruit.  Each  person  at  the  table  should 
be  provided  with  a  little  powdered  sugar,  in  which  to 
dip  the  currants  before  eating  them  from  the  stem. 

Another  nice  way  of  serving  this  fruit  is  to  dip  it  in 
the  beaten  white  of  an  egg  and  then  in  sugar,  and  let  the 
coating  get  dry  before  serving  the  currants.  This  pro- 
duces a  pretty  effect,  though  the  fruit  will  not  be  so 
fresh  and  cool  as  when  laid  on  ice. 

Peaches. 

Peaches  should  be  pared  and  cut  in  halves.  Arrange 
them  in  a  dish,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar,  not  more  than 
three  table-spoonfuls  to  two  dozen  peaches.  Serve  at 
once,  as  they  grow  dark  if  allowed  to  stand  long  after 
being  pared.  They  can  be  chilled  before  being  pared 
and  cut. 

When  cut  peaches  are  served  for  dessert,  a  spoonful  of 
some  kind  of  cordial  is  sometimes  poured  over  them. 
It  is  best  to  let  the  guests  do  this  themselves,  since  it 
would  spoil  the  dish  for  some  people. 

Apricots  are  served  the  same  as  peaches. 

Cherries. 

Cherries  should  be  heaped  in  a  large  dish.  They 
should  be  in  clusters  if  possible.  Put  green  leaves  here 
and  there  on  the  dish.  When  served  for  breakfast  they 
may  be  arranged  on  a  dish  of  broken  ice. 

Combinations. 

Combinations  of  fruits  are  made  in  this  way :  Use  a 
large  rather  flat  dish ;  it  may  be  high  or  low.  Put  a  tum- 
bler in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  open  side  up,  and  drape  it 


698          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

with  ferns  or  moss.  Put  a  small  t>ut  handsome  pine- 
apple on  the  tumbler.  Now  arrange  apples,  oranges, 
and  bananas  on  the  dish,  being  careful  to  reserve  the 
finest  fruit  for  use  later.  Now  build  up  with  pears, 
grapes,  —  two  or  three  colors,  —  bananas,  apples,  and 
oranges,  and  also  plums,  if  in  season.  Insert  a  few 
green  leaves  between  the  pieces  of  fruit.  The  dish  must 
look  light  and  rather  carelessly  arranged,  but  the  fruit 
must  be  so  placed  that  there  shall  be  no  danger  of  its 
falling.  If  the  bottom  of  the  dish  be  covered  with  soft 
moss  the  fruit  may  be  more  easily  managed  than  on  a 
smooth  surface.  The  real  moss  can  be  obtained  at  the 
florists  if  one  does  not  live  near  the  woods,  or  the  arti- 
ficial moss  may  be  used.  In  arranging  this  dish  of  fruit 
be  careful  to  combine  the  colors  tastefully.  The  inser- 
tion of  a  bit  of  green  between  two  colors  that  do  not 
harmonize  makes  a  remarkable  improvement. 

One  need  not  feel  restricted  to  the  use  of  the  fruits 
mentioned.  Use  any  kinds  that  are  at  hand.  Mandarin 
oranges  are  frequently  used  with  good  effect,  their  rich 
color  adding  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  table. 

A  dish  of  fruit  with  ice  is  a  pleasing  feature  on  a 
summer  table.  Use  a  very  large  Japanese  plate  and  one 
of  the  small  Japanese  bowls,  —  a  square  one  being  the 
best  for  this  purpose.  Place  the  bowl  in  the  centre  of 
the  dish,  and  arrange  the  fruit  around  it.  Fill  the  bowl 
with  broken  ice.  Put  long  sprays  of  fern  in  the  bowl 
near  the  edge,  letting  them  droop  over  the  fruit.  The 
ferns  for  this  decoration  should  be  delicate. 

In  the  winter,  when  one  cannot  get  green  leaves  with 
which  to  decorate  dishes  of  oranges,  apples,  pears,  etc., 
the  mountain  laurel  leaves  will  be  found  very  effective. 
One  can  get  large  bunches  of  them  early  in  the  winter. 
They  should  be  kept  in  a  large  jar  with  plenty  of  fresh 
water.  Sprinkle  them  once  a  week.  A  few  bright  flowers 
in  a  large  bunch  of  these  leaves  make  a  handsome 
decoration  for  table  or  sideboard.  This  laurel  abounds 


DESSERT.  699 


in  the  woods  of  Connecticut  and  Western  Massachusetts. 
It  is  sold  in  the  New  York  markets  at  Christmas  time. 
Holly  makes  a  pretty  decoration  for  fruit ;  indeed,  any 
of  the  broad-leaved  evergreens  are  desirable  in  winter 
for  this  purpose. 

Serving  Nuts. 

Nuts,  when  to  go  with  raisins,  are  usually  served  in 
the  shells.  When  the  shells  are  hard,  like  those  of 
walnuts,  they  should  be  cracked  before  being  served. 
There  is  a  variety  of  tastes  in  regard  to  almonds,  which 
are  sometimes  served  in  the  shell,  sometimes  shelled  but 
not  blanched,  and  sometimes  blanched.  When  they  are 
served  in  the  shell  the  paper-shell  almonds  should  be 
used.  Blanching  the  almond  changes  its  flavor  some- 
what, and  really  spoils  it  for  a  dessert  nut  if  it  be  served 
without  any  other  preparation.  The  raisins  should  be 
in  handsome  clusters,  and  the  nuts  should  be  sprinkled 
among  them. 

Salt  is  often  eaten  with  filberts.  It  is  well  to  have  it 
on  the  table  when  nuts  of  any  kind  are  served. 

Almonds  are  cooked  in  various  ways  and  served  with 
dessert.  French  chestnuts  are  roasted  and  served  with 
salt. 

Small  fancy  cakes,  confectionery,  French  candied 
fruit,  preserved  ginger,  etc.,  are  served  for  dessert. 

Salted  Almonds. 

Shell  a  quantity  of  almonds,  and  blanch  by  pouring 
boiling  water  over  them,  letting  them  stand  in  it  for  a 
moment,  then  throwing  them  into  cold  water,  and  finally 
rubbing  them  between  the  hands.  For  each  cupful  of 
nuts  that  is  put  into  a  bowl,  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
melted  butter  or  of  salad  oil.  Stir  the  almonds  well, 
and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour  ;  then  sprinkle  with  salt, 
allowing  a  table-spoonful  for  each  cupful  of  nuts.  Put 


700         MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  almonds  in  a  clean  baking-pan  and  into  a  moderate 
oven,  and  let  them  bake  —  giving  them  a  stirring  occa- 
sionally—  until. they  turn  a  delicate  brown.  In  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  they  should  be  crisp.  They  may 
require  a  slight  sprinkling  of  salt  as  they  come  from  the 
oven.  They  should  be  placed  on  the  table  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  dinner,  and  served  with  the  crackers  and 
cheese. 

Sugared  Almonds. 

Blanch  one  cupful  of  almonds.  Put  half  a  cupful  of 
boiling  water  and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan. 
Place  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  add 
the  almonds,  and  boil  for  about  five  minutes  longer,  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  When  the  sugar  grains,  turn  the 
almonds  on  a  dish  to  cool. 

Glazed  Almonds. 

Blanch  and  cook  the  nuts  the  same  as  sugared 
almonds.  Continue  the  cooking  after  the  sugar  grains 
until  it  begins  to  brown.  Now  add  a  gill  of  boiling 
water,  and  continue  cooking  until  all  the  water  has  evap- 
orated. The  almonds  will  then  be  a  rich  dark  brown. 
Spread  them  in  a  shallow  pan,  and  let  them  dry  in  the 
oven. 

Caramel  Almonds. 

Blanch  a  cupful  of  almonds,  and  add  to  them  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Place  the  cup  on  the 
back  of  the  range  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
drain  the  nuts,  and  spread  in  a  shallow  pan.  Cook  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Put  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  turns  liquid.  Instantly 
add  the  browned  almonds,  and  stir  for  half  a  minute. 
Spread  them  on  a  platter  to  cool. 


DESSERT.  701 


Iced  Fruit. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful 
of  boiling  water,  and  half  a  saltspoonf  ul  of  cream-of-tartar 
and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Take  a  drop  of  the  syrup 
on  the  point  of  a  skewer,  and  after  dipping  it  in  cold 
water,  roll  it  between  the  fingers.  If  it  forms  a  soft  ball 
the  syrup  is  cooked  enough.  If,  however,  it  melts  away, 
the  syrup  must  be  cooked  a  little  longer  and  a  drop  of 
it  be  tested  again.  A  minute's  extra  boiling  makes  a 
good  deal  of  difference.  When  the  syrup  is  done,  pour  it 
into  a  dish,  and  let  it  stand  until  you  can  bear  your  hands 
in  it.  Stir  it  until  it  begins  to  thicken;  then  work  it 
with  the  hands  until  a  smooth,  soft  paste  is  formed.  It 
may  harden  at  first,  but  it  will  soften  with  the  working. . 
When  it  is  smooth  and  slightly  elastic,  it  is  ready  for 
use. 

Have  at  hand  some  nuts,  grapes,  sections  of  oranges, 
etc.,  free  of  moisture.  Oil  a  platter  lightly  with  washed 
butter.  Put  some  of  the  creamed  sugar  in  a  small 
saucepan  or  bowl.  Place  this  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water, 
and  let  it  stand  on  the  fire  until  the  cream  is  melted. 
With  a  pair  of  confectioners'  tongs  or  sugar-tongs, 
dip  the  fruit  —  one  piece  at  a  time  —  in  the  icing, 
and  then  lay  it  on  the  oiled  dish.  All  the  creamed  sugar 
may  be  used  at  once,  or  a  part  may  be  put  aside  for  use 
another  time. 

Roasted  Chestnuts. 

Wash  some  French  chestnuts.  Make  a  slit  in  one 
side  of  the  shell,  that  it  may  be  opened  readily.  Put 
the  nuts  in  a  stew-pan  with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover 
them,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Now  drain  them,  and 
spread  in  a  dripping-pan.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten 
minutes,  and  serve  at  once  in  a  folded  napkin. 

Salt  is  sometimes  eaten  with  these  chestnuts.     They 


702          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

must  not  be  allowed  to  cool  when  taken  from  the  water 
before  they  are  put  into  the  oven. 

Although  the  simplest  form  in  which  French  chest- 
nuts are  served,  this  is  also  the  most  satisfactory.  Too 
much  cooking  makes  them  tough  and  soggy. 

JELLIES. 

Jellies  are  so  much  used  on  the  every-day  table  and 
in  the  sick-room  that  it  is  essential  that  every  house- 
keeper should  understand  how  to  make  them  easily. 
Before  gelatine  was  made  so  good  and  sold  at  such 
reasonable  prices  many  other  substances  were  generally 
used  for  the  sake  of  the  gelatine  they  contained. 
Calves'  feet,  which  are  still  used  a  great  deal,  were  the 
principal  substance  employed ;  but  pigs'  feet,  pigs'  skin, 
sheep's  feet,  cows'  feet,  etc.,  were  common  ingredients 
in  these  jellies.  Of  course,  jellies  made  with  foundations 
of  this  description  had  to  be  carefully  cleared.  Jelly- 
making  in  these  days  was  a  matter  of  much  labor  and 
time. 

With  good  gelatine  the  making  of  a  jelly  to-day  is 
the  work  of  a  few  minutes,  unless  one  wish  to  have  a 
sparkling  jelly.  Even  in  that  case  the  whole  time  em- 
ployed in  making  it  need  not  exceed  three-quarters  of 
an  hour. 

Gelatine  has  some  peculiarities  which  many  house- 
keepers do  not  understand.  .  If  it  be  kept  for  a  long  time 
in  a  warm  place,  say  where  the  temperature  is  from  110° 
to  150°,  a  disagreeable  odor  and  flavor  will  be  developed. 

Many  housekeepers  cover  gelatine  with  water,  and 
place  it  on  the  hearth  or  on  the  back  part  of  the  range 
to  dissolve  slowly.  Such  gelatine  will  nearly  always  be 
found  to  have  a  strong  odor  and  flavor,  spoiling  whatever 
it  is  mixed  with.  Gelatine  should  always  be  soaked  in 
cold  water  and  in  a  cool  place. 

In  making  jellies,  if  the  gelatine  be  soaked  for  two 


DESSERT. 


703 


hours  or  more  in  its  own  volume  of  cold  water,  and  then 
dissolved  in  hot  water,  and  there  be  added  to  this  liquid 
some  pure  granulated  or  loaf  sugar  and  wine  or  clear 
fruit  juice,  a  clear  jelly  will  be  the  result,  if  it  be  strained 
through  a  flannel  or  a  napkin.  The  sugar  must,  of  course, 
be  fully  dissolved ;  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  place  the 
bowl  containing  the  preparation  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  looks 
clear ;  then  strain. 


To  Clear  Jellies. 

When  a  sparkling  jelly  is  desired  it  must  be  cleared 
with  the  white  of  egg.  This  is  a  simple  operation,  but 
it  is  easy  to  make  a  failure  of  it. 

For  three  pints  of  jelly  use  the  whites  of  two  eggs. 
Beat  them  until  they  are  light ;  but  the  beating  must 
cease  before  a  stiff, 
dry  froth  is  formed. 
Add  one  cupful  of 
the  jelly  to  them, 
and  beat  for  a  min- 
ute longer.  Stir 
this  into  the  jelly, 
and  place  the  liquid 
on  the  lire  where  it 
will  heat  slowly. 
When  it  begins  to 
bubble  set  the  stew- 
pan  back  where  the 
jelly  will  keep  at 
the  boiling-point  for 
half  an  hour.  Keep 


Jelly-strainer. 


the  stew-pan  covered.  At  the  end  of  the  half-hour  pour 
the  jelly  through  a  fine  strainer.  Dip  a  flannel  bag  in 
hot  water,  and  after  wringing  it,  fasten  it  to  a  frame 
similar  to  that  shown  above.  Place  a  bowl  under  it. 


704          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

Pour  the  jelly  into  the  bag,  and  let  it  filter  through 
into  the  bowl.  It  will  be  found  to  be  clear  and  bright. 

There  are  two  causes  of  failure  in  clearing  jellies. 
The  white  of  the  egg  is  apt  to  be  beaten  so  dry  that  it 
does  not  mix  with  the  liquid,  or  to  be  beaten  so  little 
that  the  greater  part  of  it  hardens  in  a  smooth  mass, 
which  cannot  clear  the  liquid  because  there  are  so  few 
rough  points  to  which  the  impurities  may  cling.  The  egg 
must  be  beaten  so  well  that  it  is  broken  into  minute 
particles,  but  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  so  loose  that 
the  particles  will  separate  readily  in  the  liquid.  The 
second  cause  of  failure  is  letting  the  jelly  boil  rapidly. 
It  must  only  bubble,  and  be  kept  at  the  boiling-point 
for  at  least  half  an  hour. 

When  jellies  are  cleared  with  the  white  of  an  egg  they 
are  never  so  firm  nor  of  so  rich  a  flavor  —  providing  the 
same  quantities  of  material  are  used  —  as  when  they 
are  made  without  clearing.  It  is  best  to  use  a  little  more 
gelatine  than  when  making  the  uncooked  jelly. 


Removal  of  Tellies  from  Moulds. 


Some  suggestions  in  regard  to  the  removal  of  jellies 
and  blanc-mange  from  moulds  may  be  acceptable.  It 
may  be  well  to  say  first,  however,  that  if  either  be  wanted 
in  a  hurry,  the  hardening  of  the  liquid  may  be  hastened 
by  putting  the  mould  into  a  pan,  surrounding  it  with  ice 
and  water,  and  setting  the  pan  in  a  cool  place. 

It  frequently  happens  that  jelly  or  blanc-mange  splits 
as  soon  as  it  is  turned  out  upon  a  dish.  This  is  owing 
to  one  of  two  things:  the  mould  is  moved  during  the 
process  of  congealing,  or  its  contents  are  jarred  when 
being  removed  to  a  plate.  While  blanc-mange  or  jelly 
is  in  a  liquid  state  it  does  no  harm  to  move  it,  but  after 
either  has  become  partly  hardened,  a  slight  jarring  is 
almost  certain  to  result  in  a  split  when  the  time  comes 
for  turning  out  and  serving.  Heat  some  water  to  the 


DESSERT.  705 


temperature  of  about  105°,  and  dip  the  mould  into  it. 
There  should  be  enough  to  come  to  the  brim.  Keep  the 
mould  in  the  water  long  enough  to  melt  the  congealed 
substance  slightly.  If  the  mould  be  tin,  half  a  minute 
will  be  time  enough ;  if  it  be  earthenware,  from  one  to 
two  minutes  will  be  needed.  Wipe  the  mould  carefully 
on  lifting  it  from  the  .water,  and,  tipping  a  little  to  one 
side,  loosen  the  edge  of  the  contents  with  a  knife.  Now 
place  a  flat  dish  over  the  open  part  of  the  mould,  and 
turn  dish  and  mould  simultaneously.  Hold  both  in  that 
position  for  a  moment,  and  gently  raise  the  mould.  A 
little  practice  will  make  one  perfect. 

Moulding  and  Serving  Jellies. 

The  manner  in  which  jellies  are  moulded  and  served 
adds  a  great  deal  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  table.  Any 
kind  of  ripe,  well-flavored  fruit  may  be  imbedded  in  a 
mould  of  jelly.  Pour  a  thin  layer  of  the  jelly  in  the 
mould,  and  let  it  harden.  Put  in  a  layer  of  fruit,  and 
wet  it  with  some  of  the  liquid  jelly.  Let  this  stand  until 
it  hardens ;  then  cover  with  jelly,  and  when  this  is  hard, 
put  in  another  layer  of  fruit,  and  proceed  as  before. 
Various  colored  jellies  may  be  combined  in  layers;  or 
the  first  layer  may  be  allowed  only  partially  to  cool,  and 
when  the  second  is  poured  in,  it  should  be  by  spoonfuls. 
This  will  give  marbled  jelly. 

Two  kinds  of  jelly,  like  a  pink  and  a  light-colored  one, 
may  be  cooled  in  thin  sheets  on  large  platters,  and  then 
be  cut  into  tiny  squares.  Heap  the  pink  jelly  in  the 
centre  of  a  large  glass  dish,  and  surround  it  with  the 
lighter  kind.  The  effect  is  very  pretty.  Or  the  jelly 
may  be  served  In.  orange  baskets. 

To  make  orange  baskets,  select  well-shaped  oranges. 
Place  them  on  a  board,  stem  end  up.  With  a  small,  sharp 
knife,  cut  on  each  side  of  the  stem  about  half  through 
the  orange,  leaving  a  strip  about  half  an  inch  broad 

46 


706          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

for  the  handle.     Cut  the  orange  transversely  on  both 
sides,  and  remove  the  pieces.     Work  a  teaspoon  between 
the  pulp  and  the  skin,  being  careful  not  to  break  the 
skin.     Remove  the  pulp,  and  the  basket  is  finished.     It 
may   be    made    much    more   attractive    by 
scalloping  the  edges  and  handle ;  or  if  one 
have  time  and  ability  to  carve  the  basket 
delicately,  so  much  the  better.     The  baskets 
orange  Basket.     maj  be  placed  in  a  pan  of  pounded  ice  and 
filled  with  the  liquid  jelly,  or  be  filled  with 
chopped  jelly  at  serving-time. 

Another  way  is  to  let  the  jelly  begin  to  thicken  in 
the  bowl;  then  stir  in  preserved  fruit,  cut  fine.  Fill 
the  baskets,  and  let  them  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  sev- 
eral hours. 

Jelly  in  oranges  is  a  dainty  dish.  Cut  a  piece  from 
the  end  of  the  orange.  The  hole  must  be  only  large 
enough  to  insert  a  teaspoon.  With  the  point  of  a  small, 
sharp  knife,  cut  into  the  pulp,  being  careful  not  to  cut 
the  orange  skin.  Remove  the  pulp  with  a  teaspoon, 
scraping  the  inside  of  the  skin  very  clean.  Soak  the 
skins  for  an  hour  in  cold  water;  then  drain  and  wipe 
them.  Place  them  in  a  flat  pan,  and  pack  pounded  ice 
around  them.  Fill  with  liquid  jelly,  and  set  in  a  cold 
place  for  several  hours.  At  serving-time  arrange  them 
on  a  flat  dish,  the  open  side  down.  Garnish  the  dish 
with  green  leaves  or  ferns.  Or  the  oranges  may  be  cut 
in  halves  or  quarters,  arranged  on  a  napkin,  and  deco- 
rated with  a  border  of  green  leaves. 

Another  way  is  to  cut  good-sized  oranges  in  two, 
remove  the  pulp,  and  fill  one-half  with  jelly,  and  the 
other  with  Bavarian  cream.  At  serving-time  put  the 
halves  together,  and  tie  them  with  bright  ribbons. 

Jelly  may  be  chilled  in  a  border-mould,  and  when  it 
is  served  the  centre  may  be  filled  with  whipped  cream 
or  a  Bavarian  cream.  The  border  may  be  decorated 
with  any  kind  of  fruit.  Or  a  jelly  may  be  chilled  in 


DESSERT.  707 


several  small  moulds,  and  be  used  to  decorate  a  charlotte 
russe  or  a  mould  of  Bavarian  cream. 

Wine  Jelly. 

For  three  pints  of  jelly  use  one  package  of  gelatine, 
one  sheet  of  pink  isinglass,  one  pint  of  sherry  or  Madeira, 
one  pint  of  sugar,  a  generous  pint  and  a  half  of  water, 
two  lemons,  one  clove,  a  two-inch  piece  of  stick  cinna- 
mon, and  the  whites  of  two  eggs. 

Soak  the  gelatine  and  isinglass  in  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water  for  two  hours.  Put  in  a  stew-pan  the  soaked  gela- 
tine, the  thin  yellow  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  the  juice  of 
both,  the  wine,  water,  spice,  and  beaten  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  stir  for  ten  minutes.  Watch 
carefully,  and  when  the  jelly  bubbles,  draw  the  pan  back 
where  the  contents  will  keep  just  at  the  boiling-point. 
Cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  pour  it  through  a  strainer,  and  then  through 
the  flannel  bag.  If  the  jelly  be  preferred  light,  omit  the 
spice  and  pink  isinglass.  Pour  the  jelly  into  one  large 
mould,  or  several  small  ones,  and  set  away  in  a  cold 
place  to  harden.  It  will  take  about  six  or  eight  hours. 

*  Orange  Jelly. 

Use  the  grated  rind  of  two  oranges  and  one  pint  of 
strained  juice,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  one  package  of  gelatine, 
and  the  whites  of  two  eggs. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water.  Grate  the  orange  rind  into  a  bowl,  and  pour  the 
juice  on  it.  Let  this  stand  for  about  two  hours.  Beat 
the  whites  01  the  eggs,  and  stir  them  into  the  orange 
juice.  Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  stew-pan,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes.  When  the  liquid  bubbles, 
draw  back,  cover,  and  keep  at  the  boiling-point  for  half 
an  hour.  Strain  and  mould. 


708          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Lemon  Jelly. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  lemon  juice,  the  grated  yellow  rind 
of  one  lemon,  one  pint  of  sugar,  a  quart  and  one  gill  of 
water,  one  package  of  gelatine,  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Make  the  same  as  orange  jelly. 


Combination  Jelly. 

For  this  dish  there  must  be  prepared  three  kinds  of 
jelly.  The  materials  required  are  :  one  package  of  gela- 
tine, one  ounce  of  pink  isinglass,  three  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one  pint  of  wine,  one  gill  of  Maraschino,  the  juice 
of  three  lemons,  three  pints  and  a  gill  of  water,  and 
one  ounce  of  candied  angelica. 

Divide  the  gelatiae  into  two  parts,  and  put  each  part 
into  a  bowl  with  a  gill  of  cold  water.  Soak  for  two 
hours.  Soak  the  pink  isinglass  with  a  gill  of  water  in  a 
third  bowl.  At  the  end  of  two  hours  pour  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  on  one  of  the  portions  of  soaked  gelatine. 
Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  and  add  one  cupful 
of  the  sugar  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Place  the 
bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes,  and  stir 
the  contents  frequently.  Now  add  the  Maraschino,  and 
strain  through  a  napkin.  Place  a  two-quart  mould  in  a 
large  pan,  and  surround  it  with  broken  ice.  Pour  a 
layer  of  the  jelly,  about  half  an  inch  deep,  into  the 
mould,  and  let  it  harden.  Cut  the  angelica  in  thin 
slices  and  decorate  the  layer  of  jelly  with  it.  Wet  the 
fruit  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  liquid  jelly. 
When  this  has  hardened  pour  in  the  remainder  of  the 
jelly.  Place  in  a  cool  room  to  harden. 

Now  pour  three  gills  of  boiling  water  on  the  remain- 
ing half  of  the  gelatine.  Add  one  cupful  of  the  sugar, 
the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  half  a  pint  of  wine.  Place 
the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes.  Stir 


DESSERT.  709 


frequently,  and  then  strain  through  a  napkin.     Let  this 
cool,  but  not  congeal. 

When  the  Maraschino  jelly  is  firm,  add  this  wine 
jelly,  and  let  the  mould  stand  until  it  hardens.  Mean- 
while pour  three  gills  of  boiling  water  on  the  pink 
isinglass.  Add  the  remainder  of  the  other  materials 
and  treat  the  same  as  the  other  jellies.  When  this 
preparation  is  cold,  but  not  congealed,  fill  up  the  mould 
with  it.  Let  this  stand  for  several  hours.  Serve  with 
a  border  of  whipped  cream.  The  jelly  must  be  served 
on  a  large  dish,  and  the  whipped  cream  should  be  heaped 
about  the  jelly  without  touching  it. 

*  Coffee  Jelly. 

For  a  three-pint  mould  of  jelly  use  half  a  cupful  of 
coffee,  ground  fine,  three  pints  of  water,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  and  one  package  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  Put  the  coffee  in  a  small  biggin  or  in  a  pointed 
flannel  bag;  hanging  the  latter,  in  case  it  be  used,  in  an 
ordinary  coffee-pot.  Pour  half  a  gill  of  boiling  water  on 
the  coffee ;  then  cover  the  pot  and  let  it  stand  for  five 
minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  add  another  half-gill 
of  boiling  water,  and  let  the  pot  stand  for  five  minutes 
longer.  Now  add  boiling  water,  a  gill  at  a  time,  until  a 
pint  has  been  used.  When  all  the  water  has  passed 
through,  pour  half  a  pint  of  the  filtered  coffee  into  the 
measure,  and  pour  this  on  the  coffee.  The  biggin  should 
stand  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  to  keep  the  coffee  hot 
while  it  is  being  made. 

Now  pour  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water  on  the 
soaked  gelatine.  Add  the  sugar,  and  next  the  filtered 
coffee.  Stir  until  all  the  solid  ingredients  are  dissolved ; 
then  strain  through  a  napkin  or  a  flannel  bag.  Turn 
into  moulds,  and  set  away  in  a  cold  place  for  six  or  eight 
hours.  Serve  with  sugar  and  whipped  cream. 


710          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Dantzic  Jelly. 

This  is  made  of  a  package  of  gelatine,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  half  a  pint  of  cold  water, 
one  quart  of  boiling  water,  half  a  pint  of  Eau-de-vie  de 
Dantzic,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Put  it  in  a  large  bowl,  and  pour  the  boiling  water  on  it. 
Add  the  sugar  and  the  juice  of  the  lemons.  Place  the 
bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  on  the  fire,  and  let  it 
stand  for  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  the  contents  fre- 
quently. Mix  the  gold  leaf  through  the  cordial,  and 
then  measure  the  half-pint.  Let  this  stand  while  the 
jelly  is  being  strained,  that  the  gold  leaf  may  settle. 
Add  the  brandy  to  the  jelly,  and  strain  through  a  flannel 
bag  or  a  napkin.  Now  add  the  Eau-de-vie  to  the  strained 
jelly,  being  careful,  however,  to  keep  back  the  gold  leaf 
that  has  settled  in  the  bottom  of  the  measure.  Mix  this 
with  one  pint  of  the  jelly,  and  after  setting  the  bowl  in 
ice-water,  stir  the  jelly  until  it  is  so  cold  that  it  shows 
signs  of  congealing.  Pour  this  into  the  moulds,  — two 
moulds,  each  holding  a  pint  and  a  half,  are  good  for  this 
purpose.  Place  the  moulds  in  ice-water,  and  when  the 
gold-leaf  jelly  is  partially  congealed,  fill  the  moulds 
with  the  remainder  of  the  jelly.  Set  away  to  harden. 

The  gold  leaf  is  added  to  a  small  portion  of  jelly,  and 
chilled  in  the  manner  described,  that  it  may  show  to  the 
greatest  advantage  in  the  moulds.  The  brandy  may  be 
omitted. 

Maraschino  Jelly. 

The  materials  are :  one  package  of  gelatine,  one  quart 
of  boiling  water,  half  a  pint  of  cold  water,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  half  a  pint  of 
Maraschino. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Put  it  in  a  large  bowl,  and  pour  the  boiling  water  on  it. 
Add  the  lemon  juice  and  sugar,  and  place  the  bowl  in  a 


DESSERT.  711 


pan  of  boiling  water  and  on  the  fire.  Stir  for  ten  min- 
utes ;  then  add  the  Maraschino,  and  strain.  This  jelly 
may  be  poured  into  moulds  and  hardened  the  same  as 
any  jelly,  or  it  may  be  combined  with  various  fruits, 
which  is  by  far  the  better  way.  The  jelly  is  of  such  a 
delicate  color  that  it  takes  the  shade  of  the  fruit  im- 
bedded in  it. 

Maraschino  Jelly  with  Peaches. 

Make  the  jelly  as  directed  in  the  preceding  receipt. 
Put  a  two-quart  mould  in  a  deep  pan,  and  surround  it 
with  ice.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  mould  about  two 
inches  deep  with  the  jelly.  Drain  six  halves  of  canned 
peaches ;  the  peaches  must  be  large  and  ripe.  When  the 
layer  of  jelly  has  hardened,  put  in  three  pieces  of  the 
peaches,  having  the  outside  rest  on  the  jelly.  Pour  in 
one  gill  of  the  liquid  jelly,  and  let  it  stand  until  it  hardens. 
Now  cover  the  peaches  with  the  jelly.  When  this  new 
]ayer  is  nearly  hard,  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  peaches. 
Add  a  gill  of  jelly,  and  let  it  harden  ;  then  fill  the  mould 
with  the  rest  of  the  jelly,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

Maraschino  Jelly  with  Angelica. 

Make  the  jelly,  and  put  a  layer  about  an  inch  deep  in 
a  mould.  When  this  is  cold,  decorate  with  thin  slices  of 
angelica.  Pour  three  table-spoonfuls  of  jelly  over  this, 
and  wait  until  it  is  set.  Now  fill  the  mould  with  the 
liquid  jelly,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

Any  kind  of  candied  green  fruit  may  be  used.  The 
effect  of  the-  green  color  in  the  jelly  is  remarkably  beau- 
tiful; it  is  like  moonlight.  The  dish  might  be  called 
"  moonlight "  jelly  with  perfect  propriety. 

Candied  cherries  may  be  used  instead  of  the  green 
fruit.  Three  small  moulds  could  be  made,  using  three 
kinds  of  fruit. 


712          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Russian  Jelly. 

This  is  made  of  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons,  the  juice  of  two  oranges,  half  a  pint  of 
wine,  half  a  pint  of  sugar,  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a 
gill  of  cold  water,  and  a  generous  pint  of  strawberries  or 
raspberries. 

After  soaking  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two 
hours,  pour  upon  it  the  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until 
the  gelatine  is  dissolved ;  then  add  the  sugar  and  all  other 
ingredients  except  the  berries.  Strain  the  mixture,  and 
set  the  basin  which  contains  it  into  another  basin  of  ice- 
water.  Stir  the  liquid  occasionally  until  it  becomes  cold 
and  begins  to  congeal ;  then  beat  it  with  an  egg-beater 
until  it  will  scarcely  run  from  the  basin. 

Rinse  a  mould  in  cold  water,  and,  after  pouring  in  a 
little  of  the  whipped  jelly,  sprinkle  a  few  berries  into 
the  mould.  Continue  to  put  in  jelly  and  berries  until 
the  supply  is  exhausted ;  then  set  the  mould  away  for 
some  hours.  At  serving-time  dip  it  into  warm  water,  and 
turn  the  jelly  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Serve  soft  custard 
with  it. 

Other  ripe  fruits  besides  those  mentioned  may  be 
jellied  in  this  way.  Pineapples,  bananas,  or  peaches, 
cut  fine,  are  nice.  In  winter  candied  fruits  may  be  used, 
and  preserved  quince  gives  a  delicious  dish. 

*  Raspberry  Jelly. 

This  is  made  of  three  pints  of  raspberries,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  half  a  pint  of  cold  water, 
one  pint  and  one-third  of  boiling  water,  and  one  package 
of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  for  two  hours.  Mash 
the  raspberries  and  sugar  together,  and  let  the  mixture 
stand  for  two  hours;  then  press  all  the  juice  through  a 
fine  strainer.  Pour  the  boiling  water  upon  the  gelatine, 
and  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved;  then  add  the 


DESSERT.  713 


strained  juice  and  the  lemon  juice.  Strain  through  a 
napkin,  and  pour  into  moulds.  When  cold,  set  in  an  ice- 
chest  for  four  or  five  hours,  so  that  the  jelly  may  become 
firm. 

Neapolitan  Jelly. 

Divide  a  package  of  Cox's  gelatine  into  halves,  and  put 
each  half  into  a  bowl  with  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 
Put  three-quarters  of  an  ounce,  or  six  sheets,  of  pink  gela- 
tine into  a  third  bowl  containing  three-fourths  of  a  cup- 
ful of  cold  water.  Cover  the  bowls  to  keep  out  the  dust, 
and  set  them  away  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
add  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  pint 
of  wine,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  the  pink  gelatine, 
and,  after  stirring  till  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  strain  the 
liquid  through  a  napkin.  Treat  one  of  the  other  portions 
of  the  gelatine  in  the  same  way. 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  half  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  and,  after  adding  this  mixture  to  the  third 
portion  of  gelatine,  stir  the  new  mixture  into  a  pint  and 
a  third  of  boiling  milk  contained  in  a  double-boiler. 
Stir  on  the  fire  for  three  minutes ;  then  strain  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Place  in  a  deep  pan  two  moulds,  each  holding  about 
three  pints,  and  surround  them  with  ice  and  water. 
Pour  into  these  moulds,  in  equal  parts,  the  wine  jelly 
which  was  made  with  the  clear  gelatine,  and  set  it  away 
to  harden.  When  it  has  become  set,  pour  in  the  pink 
gelatine,  which  should  have  been  set  away  in  a  place 
not  cold  enough  to  make  it  harden.  After  it  has  been 
transferred  and  has  become  hard,  pour  into  the  moulds 
the  mixture  of  eggs,  sugar,  and  gelatine,  which  should 
be  in  a  liquid  state.  Set  the  moulds  in  an  ice-chest  for 
three  or  four  hours.  At  serving-time  dip  them  into 
tepid  water  to  loosen  the  contents,  and  gently  turn  the 
jelly  out  upon  flat  dishes. 


714          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

The  clear  jelly  may  be  made  first  and  poured  into 
moulds,  then  the  pink  jelly,  and  finally  the  egg  jelly. 

Jellied  Peaches. 

Provide  first  a  dozen  good-sized  peaches,  and  then  half 
a  box  of  gelatine,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water.  Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in 
half  a  cupful  of  the  water.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put 
the  sugar  and  the  remaining  water  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
then  let  them  boil  for  five  minutes.  Pare  the  peaches, 
and  cut  them  in  halves ;  then  cook  them  gently  in  the 
boiling  syrup  for  ten  minutes.  On  taking  the  stew-pan 
from  the  fire,  turn  the  soaked  gelatine  into  it ;  then  set 
it  in  another  basin  containing  cold  water,  and  stir  occa- 
sionally u»til  the  mixture  becomes  cool.  Before  the 
jelly  has  had  time  to  congeal,  dip  a  mould  into  cold 
water,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  it.  Set  in  a  cool  place 
for  three  or  four  hours.  At  serving-time  dip  the  mould 
into  warm  water,  and  turn  the  contents  out  on  a  flat 
dish.  Serve  with  whipped  cream  or  soft  custard,  heaped 
or  poured  around  the  jelly. 

Probably  many  people  will  think  the  flavor  is  im- 
proved by  the  addition  of  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy  or 
Maraschino  when  the  gelatine  is  put  with  the  fruit. 


Jellied  Oranges. 

Eight  large  Florida  oranges,  a  package  of  gelatine,  a 
pint  of  sugar,  a  pint  of  sherry,  three  lemons,  and  a  quart 
of  water  are  combined  to  produce  this  dish. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water ;  then  boil  the  remaining  water,  and  pour  it  upon 
the  gelatine.  Add  the  sugar  and  the  juice  of  the  lemon ; 
and  after  stirring  until  all  the  solid  ingredients  are  dis- 
solved, strain  the  liquid  through  a  napkin.  Have  ready 
a  two-quart  mould,  and  pour  into  it  enough  of  the  mix- 


DESSERT.  715 


ture  to  make  a  layer  an  inch  deep.  Set  the  mould  in  a 
pan,  and  put  ice  and  a  little  water  around  it. 

Pare  the  oranges,  and  with  a  sharp  blade  slice  them 
carefully,  rejecting  all  the  seeds  and  the  core.  When 
the  jelly  is  hard,  lay  the  sliced  oranges  on  it,  keeping 
them  slightly  away  from  the  sides  of  the  mould.  Pour 
the  remainder  of  the  jelly  over  the  fruit,  and  set  away 
in  a  cold  place.  At  serving-time  dip  the  mould  into 
warm  (not  hot)  water,  in  order  to  loosen  the  jelly,  and 
turn  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Serve  with  or  without  whipped 
cream,  as  you  fancy.  This  dish  should  stand  seven  or 
eight  hours  to  get  perfectly  hard. 

A  quicker  way  to  prepare  oranges  in  jelly  is  to  put 
them  into  a  deep  glass  dish,  and  pour  the  jelly  over 
them. 

*  Jellied  Apples. 

Use  two  quarts  of  nice,  tart  apples,  peeled,  quartered, 
and  cored,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  a  lemon,  half  a  package 
of  gelatine,  and  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  water  for  two 
hours.  Put  the  sugar,  lemon  juice,  and  the  remainder 
of  the  water  on  the  stove,  and  boil  rapidly  for  ten  min- 
utes; then  put  in  as  many  apples  as  may  be  cooked 
without  crowding.  Cook  gently  until  so  tender  that  they 
can  be  pierced  with  a  broom  straw ;  then  take  up  with 
a  skimmer,  and  spread  on  a  plate.  Put  more  apples 
into  the  stew-pan,  and  continue  cooking  until  all  are 
done. 

When  the  last  of  the  fruit  has  been  taken  up,  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  put  the  gelatine  into  it.  Stir 
until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved ;  then  place  the  stew-pan  •' 
in  a  basin  containing  ice-water,  and  stir  until  the  con- 
tents become  cool.  Put  in  the  apples,  and  mix  gently ; 
then  turn  into  a  mould,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  to  harden. 
Serve  with  sugar  and  whipped  cream  or  with  soft 
custard. 


716          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Jellied  Prunes. 

Use  one  pint  of  prunes,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water, 
half  a  package  of  gelatine,  half  a  pint  of  wine,  and  half 
a  pint  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  gill  of  the  water  for  two  hours. 
Wash  the  prunes  in  several  waters,  rubbing  them  well 
between  the  hands.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  five 
gills  of  water,  and  cook  slowly  for  one  hour.  Take  up 
the  prunes,  and  remove  the  stones.  Return  the  fruit  to 
the  water  in  the  stew-pan,  and  let  it  boil  up.  Add  the 
gelatine,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Stir  until  the  gelatine 
is  dissolved;  then  add  the  sugar  and  wine.  Place  the 
stew-pan  in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  stir  the  preparation 
until  it  begins  to  thicken.  Pour  into  a  mould,  and  set 
in  a  cool  place  to  harden.  It  should  stand  for  four  or 
five  hours.  Serve  with  soft  custard  or  whipped  cream. 

Mac6doine  of  Fruit. 

It  takes  but  few  materials  and  little  time  to  make  this 
fashionable  dish  for  dessert.  Pare  half  a  dozen  oranges, 
and  cut  them  in  thin  slices,  lengthwise.  Peel  two  ba- 
nanas, and  cut  them  in  thin  round  slices.  Put  a  layer  of 
orange  in  a  glass  dish,  and  then  one  of  the  sliced  bananas, 
and  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  Maraschino.  Continue  mak- 
ing alternate  layers  until  all  of  the  fruit  has  been  used ; 
then  sprinkle  a  cupful  of  grated  cocoanut  over  the  dish. 
Half  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  Maras- 
chino will  suffice  for  the  flavoring. 

When  peaches,  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  apricots 
are  in  season,  they  may  be  used  in  a  mace*doine. 

Peach   Chartreuse. 

Although  it  requires  considerable  space  to  tell  how  to 
make  a  fruit  chartreuse,  the  actual  work  does  not  call 
for  extraordinary  skill  on  the  part  of  the  housekeeper. 


DESSERT.  717 


She  must  use  a  box  and  a  quarter  of  gelatine,  half  a  gill 
of  Maraschino,  one  pint  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  crearn,  one 
quart  of  ripe  peaches,  a  lemon,  one  pint  of  boiling  water, 
and  three  gills  of  cold  water. 

Soak  three-fifths  of  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  a 
bowl  containing  two  gills  of  cold  water,  and  soak  the 
remaining  gelatine  in  the  third  gill  of  water.  At  the  eud 
of  the  two  hours  pour  the  boiling  water  upon  the  larger 
quantity  of  gelatine ;  and  when  the  latter  has  dissolved, 
add  half  a  pint  of  sugar,  the  Maraschino,  and  the  juice 
of  the  lemon.  Stir  until  the  sugar  dissolves,  and  strain 
through  a  napkin.  Pour  into  a  two-quart  charlotte- 
mould  enough  of  the  liquid  to  cover  the  bottom  to  the 
depth  of  half  an  inch,  and  after  placing  the  mould  in  a 
pan,  surround  it  with  ice.  Let  the  remainder  of  the 
jelly  stand  where  it  will  keep  cool  without  congealing. 

Pare  the  peaches,  and  cut  some  of  the  ripest  and  hand- 
somest in  thin  round  slices,  —  enough  to  make  a  circle 
on  the  bottom  of  the  mould.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the 
fruit  in  small  pieces,  and  mash  it  with  the  half-pint  of 
sugar.  Let  the  mixture  stand  for  at  least  half  an  hour  — 
better  longer. 

When  the  layer  of  jelly  has  hardened  in  the  mould, 
arrange  the  slices  of  peach  tastefully  upon  it,  and  moisten 
them  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  liquid  jelly.  Let 
this  harden  (it  will  require  only  about  ten  minutes,  if 
the  mould  be  set  in  a  cold  place) ;  then  completely  cover 
the  peaches  with  the  liquid  jelly,  and  let  the  dish  stand 
until  this  layer  gets  hard.  Set  a  quart  mould  in  the 
centre  of  the  larger  mould,  and  fill  it  with  ice  and  water. 
Into  the  space  between  the  two  moulds  pour  the  remainder 
of  the  liquid  jelly,  and  carefully  put  away  the  moulds 
in  order  that  the  jelly  may  harden.  If  they  be  put  in 
a  cool  place,  and  the  outer  mould  be  surrounded  with 
ice  and  water,  the  jelly  will  harden  in  two  hours ;  but 
it  is  well,  if  possible,  to  let  it  stand  for  three  or  four 
hours. 


718          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Next  whip  the  cream.  A  quart  will  yield  three  quarts 
of  whipped  cream,  and  there  will  be  about  a  gill  of  un- 
whipped  cream  left  for  use  with  coffee  or  chocolate. 
Place  the  whipped  cream  where  it  will  keep  cool,  and 
as  soon  as  the  jelly  in  the  mould  is  hard,  put  the  peaches 
and  sugar  on  the  fire.  Heat  slowly,  and  when  the  mix- 
ture gets  boiling  hot,  add  the  soaked  gelatine.  Take 
from  the  fire  immediately,  and  stir  until  the  gelatine  is 
dissolved. 

Now  remove  the  ice,  and  nearly  all  the  water  from 
the  small  mould,  and  pour  in  enough  warm  water  to 
make  the  entire  quantity  blood  warm,  and  to  raise  the 
level  almost  to  the  top  of  the  mould.  As  soon  as  the 
jelly  begins  to  melt  from  the  heat  of  the  water,  gently 
raise  the  mould. 

Set  the  basin  containing  the  peach  and  gelatine  into 
a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  as  soon  as  the  mixture  gets  cool, 
add  a  quart  of  whipped  cream.  Stir  gently  until  the 
liquid  becomes  so  thick  that  it  will  scarcely  flow  freely 
from  the  spoon  when  it  is  raised ;  then  turn  it  into  the 
space  left  by  the  removal  of  the  small  mould  from  the 
jelly.  Set  away  for  half  an  hour,  and  it  will  then  be 
ready  to  serve.  At  serving-time  put  the  mould  in  a 
pan  of  blood-warm  water  for  about  twenty  seconds,  and 
then  wipe  it.  Place  a  flat  dish  upside  down,  over  the 
opening  of  the  mould,  and  turn  the  dish  and  mould  simul- 
taneously. Hold  them  still  for  a  moment,  and  then  raise 
the  mould  slowly,  leaving  the  chartreuse  on  the  dish. 
Heap  the  whipped  cream  around  it. 

*  Apple  Float. 

The  materials  required  are :  four  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk, 
a  cupful  of  stewed  and  strained  tart  apple,  half  a  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  put  the  remainder 
on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler.  Beat  together  all  the  yolks 


DESSERT.  719 


and  one  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  add  to  them  the 
cold  milk  and  half  the  sugar.  Stir  well,  and  after  pour- 
ing the  boiling  milk  over  it,  put  the  mixture  into  the 
double-boiler.  Stir  constantly  for  five  minutes;  and  if 
at  the  end  of  that  time  the  mixture  be  thick  and  smooth, 
take  it  from  the  fire  immediately.  Turn  into  the  bowl, 
and  set  away  to  cool ;  and  when  it  is  cold,  add  the  vanilla 
flavoring,  and  turn  into  a  deep  glass  dish. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
beat  the  remaining  sugar  into  this  froth.  Next  beat  in 
the  strained  apple ;  and  when  the  mixture  is  light  and 
smooth,  heap  it  in  the  centre  of  the  custard. 

Other  floats  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way,  using  rasp- 
berries, strawberries,  peaches,  cherries,  apricots,  etc.  But 
if  preserved  fruit  be  taken,  use  only  a  quarter  of  a 
cupful. 

*  Apple  Trifle. 

The  materials  are :  three  pints  of  pared,  cored,  and 
quartered  apples,  half  a  pint  of  water,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  three  pints  of 
whipped  cream. 

Put  the  water  in  the  stew-pan  and  then  put  in  the 
apples.  Cover  closely,  and  place  on  the  fire.  As  soon 
as  the  apples  begin  to  soften  (which  will  be  in  about 
three  minutes  after  they  begin  to  boil),  add  the  sugar 
and  nutmeg,  and  cook  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Take  up, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  At  serving-time  put  them  in  a 
^eep  glass  dish,  and  heap  the  whipped  cream  on  top. 

Caledonian  Trifle. 

This  is  made  of  eight  eggs,  one  quart  of  milk,  half  a 
teacupful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  currant  jelly,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  raspberry 
preserve. 


720          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Reserve  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  put  the  remainder 
on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Put  aside  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  in  a  cool  place,  and  beat  the  yolks  and  the 
five  whole  eggs  with  the  sugar  and  salt,  using  a  spoon 
for  the  operation  ;  then  add  the  cold  milk.  When  the 
milk  on  the  stove  begins  to  boil,  pour  it  upon  this  mix- 
ture, stirring  all  the  while.  Turn  the  mixture  into  the 
double-boiler,  and  set  it  over  the  fire.  Stir  until  the 
liquid  looks  as  thick  on  the  edge  of  the  spoon  as  in 
the  middle.  This  will  be  in  from  five  to  six  minutes  if 
the  water  in  the  lower  kettle  has  been  boiling  all  the 
while.  Pour  the  custard  into  a  pitcher  or  bowl,  and  set 
it  away  to  cool,  stirring  it  occasionally. 

At  serving-time  pour  it  into  a  deep  glass  dish.  Beat 
the  reserved  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth. 
Stir  into  it  one-half  the  currant  jelly,  broken  into  small 
pieces,  and  into  the  other  half  the  raspberry  preserve. 
Form  these  mixtures  into  little  mounds  on  top  of  the 
custard. 

*  Strawberry  Trifle. 

Lay  slices  of  stale  cake  in  a  deep  glass  dish,  and  pour 
over  them  enough  canned  strawberries  to  moisten  well. 
Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and 
beat  into  them  four  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
When  light  and  firm,  slowly  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
wine  or  strawberry  juice.  Heap  upon  the  cake  and  straw- 
berries, and  serve  soon. 

Orange  Charlotte. 

Use  half  a  box  of  gelatine,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  of 
orange  juice,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  one  cupful  and  a 
half  of  boiling  water,  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and 
four  Florida  oranges  of  medium  size. 

Soak  the  gelatin*  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Pour  the  boiling  water  on  it,  and  then  place  the  bowl  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water.  Add  tlie  sugar,  and  stir  until 


DESSERT.  721 


dissolved.  Now  add  the  orange  and  lemon  juice,  and 
strain  into  a  bowl.  Place  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  ice-water, 
and  stir  frequently  until  the  contents  begin  to  congeal. 

While  they  are  cooling,  peel  and  slice  the  oranges. 
Line  a  quart  charlotte-mould  with  them.  As  soon  as 
the  jelly  begins  to  congeal,  beat  it  vigorously.  Continue 
beating  the  preparation  until  it  is  light  and  so  thick  that 
it  flows  in  a  thick  stream.  Fill  the  charlotte  mould,  and 
set  away  to  harden. 

Bavarian  Orange  Charlotte. 

This  is  made  of  the  grated  rind  of  two  oranges  and  the 
juice  of  six.  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-third  of  a  box  of 
gelatine,  two  quarts  of  whipped  and  drained  cream,  two- 
thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water,  and  enough  stale  sponge  cake 
or  lady-fingers  to  line  a  three-pint  charlotte-mould. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  one-third  of  a  cup- 
ful of  cold  water.  Grate  the  rind  —  only  the  yellow 
part  —  into  a  bowl,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  half- 
dozen  oranges  into  the  same  bowl.  Now  whip  the  cream, 
and  let  it  drain.  Next  cut  the  cake,  and  line  the  mould. 

When  the  gelatine  has  been  soaked  sufficiently,  pour 
upon  it  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Stir  the 
gelatine  until  it  is  completely  dissolved;  then  pour  it 
into  the  bowl  with  the  orange  juice.  Strain  this  mix- 
ture into  a  tin  or  granite-ware  basin ;  and  after  placing 
the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  stir  the  contents  con- 
stantly until  they  begin  to  thicken.  When  the  mixture 
is  slightly  thickened,  add  the  whipped  cream  gradually, 
gently  stirring  all  the  while  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
After  a  little  stirring  take  up  a  spoonful  of  the  mixture 
and  pour  it  back.  If  it  does  not  immediately  sink,  the 
mixture  will  be  thick  enough  to  turn  into  the  mould. 
Be  careful  not  to  pour  it  in  before  it  is  of  the  proper 
consistency,  yet  be  equally  careful  not  to  delay  pouring 
after  it  is  just  thick  enough.  Set  away  for  an  hour  or 


722          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

more,  to  harden.     At  serving-time  loosen  the  charlotte 
from  the  sides  of  the  mould,  and  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish. 

Burnt  Almond  Charlotte. 

This  is  a  delicious  dish  for  dessert.  It  is  made  of  a 
cupful  of  blanched  almonds,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  milk,  half  a  box  of  gelatine,  half  a  cupful 
of  cold  water,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  quarts  of 
whipped  cream,  and  enough  stale  sponge  cake  or  lady- 
fingers  to  line  a  two-quart  charlotte-mould. 

Before  any  of  the  other  work  is  done,  the  gelatine 
should  be  soaked  in  the  cold  water  for  about  an  hour 
and  three-quarters.  To  blanch  the  almonds,  shell  them, 
pour  boiling  water  over  them,  and  after  letting  them 
remain  in  it  for  a  moment,  throw  them  into  cold  water ; 
finally  rub  them  between  the  hands.  After  blanching 
them,  chop  them  fine.  Put  three  heaping  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  sugar  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  gets  melted 
and  is  smoking  hot,  put  in  the  nuts,  and  stir  until  they 
become  brown,  —  say  for  about  four  minutes.  Take  them 
from  the  fire,  and  spread  them  on  a  plate  to  cool ;  and 
when  they  are  cold,  pound  them  fine  and  put  them  into 
a  double-boiler  with  the  milk,  to  cook  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour. 

Meanwhile  line  a  two-quart  charlotte-mould  with  stale 
sponge  cake  or  lady-fingers.  Beat  together  the  remainder 
of  the  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  at  the  end 
of  the  quarter  of  an  hour  just  mentioned,  strain  upon 
them  the  cooked  milk;  then  put  the  mixture  into  the 
double-boiler,  and  add  the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir  for  four 
minutes ;  then  set  the  boiler  into  a  pan  of  ice-water, 
and  stir  until  its  contents  begin  to  thicken.  Add  the 
whipped  cream,  and  continue  stirring  until  the  mixture 
becomes  so  thick  that  it  will  scarcely  run.  Pour  the 
mixture  into  the  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden.  At 
serving-time  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish. 


DESSERT.  723 


Strawberry  Charlotte. 

The  directions  for  making  this  dish  may  appear  ex- 
ceedingly complex,  yet  a  beginner  can  do  the  prescribed 
work  in  an  hour,  and  after  a  little  experience  in  whip- 
ping cream,  the  work  will  not  occupy  more  than  half  an 
hour. 

Soak  half  a  package  of  gelatine  in  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water  for  two  hours.  Select  from  a  quart  of  straw- 
berries a  cupful  of  the  largest  and  soundest,  and  put 
them  aside.  After  sprinkling  the  remainder  of  the 
berries  with  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  cut  them  up  with  a 
spoon,  and  put  them  in  a  cool  place.  Put  a  quart  of 
cream  into  a  bowl  or  pail,  and  set  in  a  pan  of  ice-water  •, 
place  a  pan  of  granite-ware  or  tin,  having  a  small  bottom, 
in  another  containing  ice-water ;  then  whip  the  cream, 
and,  skimming  off  the  froth,  put  it  into  the  empty  pan. 
When  nearly  all  the  cream  has  been  whipped,  pour  off 
such  portion  as  has  become  liquid  again.  If  there  be 
less  than  three  quarts  of  whipped  cream  left  in  the  pan, 
whip  again  till  you  obtain  that  quantity. 

Line  two  three-pint  moulds  with  stale  sponge  cake  or 
lady-fingers,  and  spread  the  whole  strawberries,  from 
the  cup,  on  the  bottom  of  each  mould.  Now  pour  half 
a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  the  soaking  gelatine. 
Sprinkle  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  wine  over  the  whipped  cream ;  then 
strain  the  gelatine  upon  it,  and  stir  gently  from  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken. 
When  it  has  become  so  thick  that  it  will  scarcely  run, 
put  a  layer  of  it  into  each  mould ;  then  put  in  a  layer  of 
strawberries  (those  cut  up  and  sugared),  with  their  juice, 
and  continue  making  these  alternate  layers  until  all  the 
materials  have  been  used.  Let  the  last  layer  be  one  of 
cream.  Place  the  charlotte  in  an  ice-chest  for  an  hour 
or  more. 

When  ready  to  serve,  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  form 


724          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

a  border  with  strawberries  which  have  been  standing  in 
sugar  for  about  ten  minutes,  using  a  quart  of  the  fruit 
and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar. 

Cantaloupe  Charlotte. 

Cut  a  thin  sheet  of  stale  sponge  cake  into  strips  long 
enough  to  run  the  length  of  a  three-pint  melon-mould, 
and  lit  these  strips  closely  into  such  a  mould.  It  is  a 
good  plan,  yet  not  an  absolute  necessity,  to  dip  their 
edges  into  the  white  of  an  egg  that  has  been  beaten  a 
little,  for  this  will  keep  the  pieces  of  cake  together. 

Make  a  cream  of  a  generous  quarter  of  a  package  of 
gelatine,  a  scant  half-cupful  of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sherry,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  two  quarts  of  whipped 
cream.  Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  one-third  of 
a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Have  the  whipped  cream  in  a 
bright  tin  pan,  and  after  placing  it  in  another  pan  of  ice- 
water, —  have  plenty  of  ice,  —  sprinkle  the  sugar  and 
pour  the  wine  into  it,  and  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Pour  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water 
over  the  gelatine,  and  when  the  latter  is  completely 
dissolved,  strain  the  liquid  into  the  cream.  Stir  the 
mixture  at  the  bottom  part  of  the  pan  until  it  begins  to 
thicken,  and  then  stir  all  the  froth  at  the  top  into  it. 
When  the  cream  has  become  so  nearly  solid  that  it  will 
scarcely  flow,  pour  it  into  the  lined  mould.  Set  away  on 
ice  for  two  hours. 

Just  before  serving-time  chop  half  a  cupful  of  pista- 
chio nuts  very  fine,  and  beat  the  whites  of  the  two  eggs 
to  a  froth,  —  not  extremely  dry.  Turn  the  charlotte  out 
upon  a  dish,  and  after  covering  it  with  the  beaten  eggs, 
sprinkle  thickly  with  the  chopped  nuts.  Have  a  pint 
of  cream,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  two  of  sherry 
whipped  to  a  froth,  and  heap  around  the  charlotte. 

The  whipping  may  be  done  at  any  time,  and  the  flavor- 
ing omitted  if  plain  cream  be  preferred. 


DESSERT.  725 


Coffee  Charlotte. 

There  will  be  required  enough  lady-fingers  or  stale 
sponge  cake  to  line  a  two-quart  mould,  or  two  smaller 
moulds,  three  quarts  of  whipped  cream,  half  a  package 
of  gelatine,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  milk, 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  half  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
coffee,  ground  fine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Put  the  coffee  in  a  small  flannel  bag,  and  place  in  a  small 
saucepan.  Pour  the  boiling  water  on  it,  and  steep  on 
the  back  of  the  stove  for  half  an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  together.  Add  the  milk  and 
the  coffee  to  them.  Place  the  mixture  on  the  fire,  in  the 
double-boiler,  and  cook  until  it  thickens,  stirring  all 
the  time.  It  will  take  about  five  minutes.  Now  add  the 
soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  for  a  minute  longer.  On  tak- 
ing from  the  fire,  place  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  to  cool. 
Stir  frequently. 

Line  the  moulds  with  the  cake.  Now  add  about  a 
quart  of  broken  ice  to  the  water  in  which  the  custard  is 
cooling.  Stir  constantly  until  the  custard  begins  to 
thicken.  Add  the  whipped  cream,  a  little  at  a  time. 
Stir  well  from  the  bottom,  and  sides.  Take  a  spoonful 
of  the  mixture  from  the  bottom,  and  pour  it  back  again. 
If  it  does  not  sink  immediately,  you  may  be  sure  that 
the  cream  is  firm  enough  and  should  be  poured  into  the 
moulds ;  but  should  the  spoonful  sink  at  once,  you  must 
continue  to  stir  the  preparation,  and  repeat  the  test  in  a 
short  time. 

When  the  moulds  have  been  filled  with  the  cream,  set 
them  away  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  or  more  before 
serving. 

Charlotte  Russe. 

For  two  moulds,  each  holding  one  quart,  use  three 
quarts  of  whipped  cream,  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  the 


726          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

yolks  of  four  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one  gill  of  water, 
a  small  cupful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ex- 
tract, and  enough  stale  sponge  cake  or  lady-fingers  to 
line  the  sides  of  the  moulds. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  for  two  hours.  Beat1 
the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together,  and  stir  the 
milk  into  this  mixture.  Put  on  the  fire  in  the  double- 
boiler,  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  until  this  is  dissolved. 
Take  from  the  fire  and  cool,  stirring  frequently. 

Line  the  moulds  with  the  cake.  Add  the  vanilla,  and 
place  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice-water.  Stir  the  custard 
until  it  begins  to  thicken ;  then  add  the  whipped  cream, 
about  one-third  at  a  time.  Stir  until  the  preparation  is 
so  thick  that  it  can  hardly  be  poured.  Fill  the  moulds, 
and  set  away  to  harden.  If  possible,  let  the  moulds 
stand  for  an  hour  or  longer. 

For  some  tastes  the  charlotte  is  improved  by  the 
addition  of  four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine. 

Charlotte  Russe  without  Cream. 

For  a  three-pint  mould  use  one-third  of  a  package  of 
gelatine,  one  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  a  generous  half- 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  the  milk  for  two 
hours.  Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together,  and 
add  half  a  cupful  of  milk  to  them.  Put  the  remainder 
of  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler.  When  hot,  pour  it 
on  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar.  Put  this  mixture  into 
the  double-boiler,  and  stir  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes. 
Add  the  gelatine,  and  stir  until  that  is  all  dissolved. 
On  taking  from  the  fire,  strain  into  a  bowl.  Place  the 
bowl  in  a  pan  of  ice-water.  When  the  mixture  is  cold, 
add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  unbeaten.  Beat  until  the 
mixture  is  thick  and  frothy.  Fill  with  this  cream  a 
mould  that  has  been  lined  with  sponge  cake,  and  set 


DESSERT.  727 


away  to  harden.  This,  of  course,  is  not  to  be  compared 
with  charlotte  russe  made  with  cream,  but  it  is  a  good 
substitute  in  parts  of  the  country  where  it  is  impracti- 
cable to  obtain  cream. 


Charlotte  Russe  on  a  Bed  of  Jelly. 

Make  a  wine  or  orange  jelly,  and  pour  it  into  a  large 
5S  dish,  or  into  two  dishes,  if  there  are  to  be  two 
moulds  of  the  charlotte.  Let  the  jelly  harden.  At 
serving-time  turn  the  charlotte  on  the  jelly,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Any  kind  of  Bavarian  cream  may  be  served  in  this 
manner  on  a  bed  of  any  kind  of  jelly. 

Charlotte  Russe  in  Paper  Cases. 

Charlotte  russe  that  is  served  in  paper  cases  or  in 
the  small  china  souffle'  dishes  can  be  made  without  gela- 
tine, and  is  liked  by  some  people  much  better  than  that 
which  is  moulded  with  the  aid  of  gelatine. 

Line  eight  or-  ten  fancy  moulds  with  sponge  cake 
or  sponge  fingers.  Sprinkle  into  two  quarts  of  whipped 
and  drained  cream  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  or,  instead  of  wine,  half 
a  teaspoon ful  of  vanilla  extract.  Fill  with  this  prepa- 
ration the  dishes  that  have  been  lined  with  cake,  and 
put  them  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour. 

At  serving-time  put  a  candied  cherry  or  a  fresh  straw- 
berry on  top  of  each  dish  of  cream. 

Or,  this  charlotte  russe  may  be  made  in  one  large 
glass  dish.  Line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  dish  with 
cake,  and  fill  with  the  cream  preparation.  Let  it  stand 
in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour.  At  serving-time  dot 
with  fresh  strawberries  or  candied  cherries. 

If  one  be  in  a  hurry,  this  dish  may  be  served  as  soon 
as  made. 


728          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Maraschino  Bavarian  Cream. 

Take  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream,  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  half  a  package  of  gelatine,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Maraschino. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  whip  the  cream  to  a  froth.  Put 
the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  and  add  both  them  and  the  sugar  to  the 
soaked  gelatine.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  hot  milk, 
and  cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  ;  then 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  strain  into  a  basin  that  holds 
three  quarts.  Add  the  Maraschino,  and,  setting  the  basin 
in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  stir  the  mixture  until  it  becomes 
cold  and  begins  to  thicken;  then  stir  in  the  whipped 
cream,  and  pour  into  moulds  that  have  been  dipped  in 
cold  water.  Set  away  to  harden.  The  cream  should  be 
firm  in  half  an  hour,  but  it  is  well  to  let  it  stand  for 
several  hours.  At  serving-time  dip  the  moulds  into 
warm  water,  and  turn  the  cream  out  on  flat  dishes. 


Almond  Velvet  Cream. 

This  dish  for  dessert  requires  three  pints  of  milk,  four 
eggs,  one  package  of  gelatine,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  almond. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  the  milk  for  two 
hours.  Reserve  a  gill  of  the  remaining  milk,  and  put  the 
rest  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Beat  the  eggs  and 
sugar  together,  and  add  the  gill  of  cold  milk.  Pour 
the  boiling  milk  on  this  mixture ;  then  put  the  mixture 
into  the  double-boiler  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stir- 
ring all  the  while.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir 
until  it  is  dissolved,  —  no  longer.  On  removing  the  mix- 
ture from  the  stove  stir  the  salt  and  the  extract  of 


DESSERT. 


almond  into  it.  Strain,  and  pour  into  moulds  which 
have  been  rinsed  in  cold  water.  Let  the  moulds  stand 
in  a  cold  place  for  half  an  hour ;  then  set  them  into  a 
refrigerator  for  six  or  eight  hours.  At  serving-time  dip 
the  moulds  into  warm  water  for  a  few  seconds ;  then 
wipe  them  before  turning  out  the  cream.  Serve  with 
sugar  and  cream. 

*  Tapioca   Cream. 

After  washing  four  table-spoonfuls  of  tapioca,  put  it 
into  a  bowl  containing  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  let 
it  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning  pour  off  all  the 
water,  and  put  the  tapioca  into  a  double-boiler,  with  one 
(part  of  boiling  milk ;  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  cupful  of  sugar,  beaten 
together.  Cook  the  mixture,  stirring  constantly,  until 
it  thickens  like  soft  custard,  —  say  for  about  seven  min- 
utes. Have  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  as  soon  as  the  cream  is  cooked,  stir  this  froth  into 
it.  Season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  either  lemon  or  vanilla 
extract.  Pour  into  an  earthen  dish,  and  let  it  get  per- 
fectly cold.  At  serving-time  turn  into  a  deep  glass  dish, 
and  dot  with  bits  of  bright  jelly. 

*  Tapioca  Custard. 

Like  the  preceding  dish,  this  is  very  nice  for  dessert. 
It  is  made  of  a  quart  of  milk,  three  eggs,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tapioca,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  or  vanilla  extract,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Wash  the  tapioca,  and  soak  it  over  night  in  the  cold 
water.  In  the  morning  put  the  quart  of  milk  on  the 
stove  in  a  double-boiler.  Beat  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  salt 
together  until  smooth  and  light,  and  add  to  them  the 
soaked  tapioca.  When  the  milk  boils,  stir  this  mixture 
into  it,  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while 


• 

730          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Take  from  the  fire  at  the  expiration  of  the  five  minutes ; 
and  after  adding  the  flavor,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  dish, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  After  it  has  become  cool  it  should 
be  chilled  on  ice  before  being  served. 

Orange   Custard. 

This  is  made  of  eight  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  two 
large  oranges,  and  the  juice  of  four,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  one  cupful  of  sugar. 

Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  and 
put  the  latter  away  in  a  cool  place.  Add  the  orange-rind 
and  juice  to  the  whites  of  the  eggs ;  and  after  beating 
the  mixture  well,  add  the  water.  Set  away  for  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and 
add  them,  together  with  the  sugar,  to  the  mixture  of 
whites,  orange,  and  water.  Strain  into  a  pitcher,  and  set 
the  pitcher  into  a  basin  containing  boiling  water  enough 
to  conie  well  up  the  sides.  Set  the  basin  where  the  water 
will  boil  rapidly,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  becomes 
as  thick  as  rich  cream,  —  say  for  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  allow  the  custard  par- 
tially to  cool,  stirring  it  frequently ;  then  pour  into 
glass  cups,  and  put  away  to  get  perfectly  cold. 

*Wine  Custard. 

This  is  easily,  quickly,  and  cheaply  made,  yet  the  work 
must  be  done  carefully.  Heat  a  quart  of  milk  to  the 
temperature  of  100°.  Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  two  of  wine ;  and  after  stirring  well,  add  two  even 
table-spoonfuls  of  liquid  rennet,  stirring  only  enough 
to  mix  it  with  the  milk.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  deep 
glass  dish,  and  set  away  to  cool.  It  will  be  firm,  in 
about  two  hours.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Be  careful  not  to  get  the  milk  too  warm.  Be  equally 
particular  to  mix  the  sugar  and  wine  with  it  thoroughly, 
before  adding  the  rennet ;  to  stir  the  mixture  after  the 


DESSERT.  731 


addition  of  the  rennet  only  enough  to  blend  all  the  mate- 
rials ;  and  finally  to  turn  immediately  into  the  dish  in 
which  the  custard  is  to  go  to  the  table. 

*  Caramel   Custard. 

The  materials  are :  one  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  half 
a  cupful  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  hot  water,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  sugar  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  it  begins  to  turn  liquid ;  then  draw  the  pan 
back,  and  add  the  water.  This  will  harden  the  sugar. 
Let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  it  will  become 
liquid  again. 

Beat  the  eggs  and  salt  with  a  spoon  until  well  broken. 
Add  them  to  the  milk.  Now  add  the  caramel,  and  stir 
well.  Pour  the  custard  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  firm  in  the  centre.  It  will  take 
about  forty  minutes.  Serve  cold. 

This  custard  can  be  baked  in  small  cups  instead  of  in 
the  pudding-dish. 

*A  Simple  Soft  Custard. 

This  is  very  plain  and  light,  and  may  be  used  with 
many  puddings  as  a  sauce.  For  a  quart  of  custard  there 
will  be  required  a  quart  of  milk,  half  a  teacupful  of  sugar, 
four  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  one-fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  some 
kind  of  extract,  —  vanilla  is  recommended. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a 
double-boiler.  Mix  the  arrowroot  with  a  gill  of  the 
cold  milk;  and  after  stirring  this  mixture  into  the  hot 
milk,  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs,  sugar,  and 
salt  together,  and  add  the  remaining  cold  milk.  When 
the  arrowroot  has  cooked  for  ten  minutes,  pour  the 
boiling  milk  over  the  egg  mixture.  Stir  well,  and 
then  cook  for  five  minutes  in  the  double-boiler,  stir- 


732          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

ring  all  the  time.  Remove  from  the  fire,  pour  into  a 
bowl  or  pitcher,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add 
the  flavor. 

The  custard  may  be  served  in  cups,  if  not  wanted  for 
a  pudding-sauce ;  or  it  may  be  poured  over  stale  sponge 
cake,  the  dish  being  then  called  a  "  trifle.'' 

*  Corn-starch  Blanc-mange. 

Bub  five  ingredients  are  needed  :  a  quart  of  milk,  four 
heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  or  vanilla  extract. 

Reserve  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  put  the  rest  on  the  stove 
in  a  double-boiler.  Mix  the  corn-starch,  sugar,  salt,  and 
cold  milk,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  other  milk  when 
it  boils.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  cook  for  twelve  minutes, 
stirring  often.  After  rinsing  a  mould  with  cold  water, 
pour  the  hot  mixture  into  it,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

The  blanc-mange  may  be  served  with  sugar  and  cream, 
or  with  a  sauce  made  by  beating  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  gradually  beating  into  this 
a  tumbler  of  any  kind  of  fruit  jelly  or  preserves.  Turn 
the  blanc-mange  out  upon  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce 
around  it.  Serve  at  once. 

Egg  sauce  is  nice  with  this  pudding. 

*  Fruit  Blanc-mange. 

Any  kind  of  juicy  fruit  will  answer  for  this  blanc- 
mange ;  but  red  fruits,  like  strawberries,  raspberries,  and 
currants,  produce  the  handsomest  dish.  The  materials 
required  to  fill  a  quart  mould  are :  half  a  pint  of  sugar, 
a  pint  of  water,  a  pint  of  fruit,  and  six  level  table- spoon- 
fuls of  arrowroot. 

Free  the  fruit  of  hulls  or  stems,  and  crush  it  in  a  bowl 
also  containing  the  sugar.  Let  the  mixture  stand  for 


DESSERT.  73;] 


an  hour ;  then  add  the  water,  and  press  the  mixture 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Reserve  half  a  cupful,  and  put  the 
remainder  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  half-cupful  smoothly 
with  the  arrowroot,  and  stir  into  the  first  mixture  when 
it  boils.  Cook  for  eight  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
When  done,  pour  into  a  mould  that  has  been  rinsed  in 
cold  water,  and  set  away  to  harden.  The  blanc-mangt 
should  stand  for  at  least  four  hours.  Serve  with  sugar 
and  cream.  Whipped  cream  makes  a  pretty  garnish. 

*  Taganrok  Blanc-mange. 

Taganrok  is  Russian  wheat  farina,  which  comes  in 
small  packages,  costing  ten  cents.  One  package  is  suffi- 
cient for  four  quarts  of  blanc-mange.  To  make  a  mould 
of  blanc-mange  use  a  quart  of  milk,  four  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  farina,  and  one  level  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  sprinkle  in  the  taganrok,  stirring  all 
the  while.  Next  add  the  salt,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour, 
stirring  frequently.  At  the  end  of  the  half-hour  rinse 
a  mould  in  cold  water,  and  pour  the  hot  mixture  into 
it.  Set  away  to  cool,  and  be  sure  that  it  is  ice-cold  when 
sent  to  the  table.  Serve  sugar  and  cream  with  it. 

*  Chocolate   Blanc-mange. 

For  a  quart  mould  of  blanc-mange  use  one  quart  of 
milk,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  sea-moss  farina,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  one  ounce  of  scraped  chocolate, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Put  the  milk  in  the  double-boiler,  and  sprinkle  the 
farina  into  it,  stirring  all  the  time.  Place  on  the  fire, 
and  heat  slowly,  stirring  frequently. 

When  the  milk  and  farina  have  been  cooking  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  put  the  sugar,  chocolate,  and  water 


734          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the 
mixture  is  smooth  and  glossy.  Add  this  to  the  milk 
and  farina.  Stir  for  two  minutes;  then  take  from  the 
fire,  and  after  adding  the  salt  and  vanilla,  pour  into  the 
moulds,  and  set  away  to  harden.  Serve  with  sugar  and 
cream. 


*  For  a  three-pint  mould,  use  three  pints  of  milk,  one 
package  of  gelatine,  two  ounces  of  scraped  chocolate, 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
water. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  pint  of  the 
milk.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  the  remainder  of 
the  milk  into  the  double-boiler.  Now  put  the  sugar, 
chocolate,  and  water  into  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  over 
a  hot  fire  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  glossy.  Add 
this  to  the  hot  milk.  Stir  for  two  minutes,  and  add 
the  soaked  gelatine.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
salt  and  vanilla.  Place  the  pan  in  another  containing 
cold  water,  and  stir  the  mixture  for  five  or  eight  minutes  ; 
then  turn  into  moulds,  and  set  away  to  harden.  Serve 
with  sugar  and  whipped  or  plain  cream. 

*  Bananas  and  Whipped  Cream. 

If  provision  is  to  be  made  for  six  persons,  use  six  or 
seven  bananas,  the  juice  of  an  orange,  half  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  one  pint  of  cream,  whipped  to  a  froth. 

Pare  and  slice  the  bananas ;  and  after  sprinkling  them 
with  the  sugar,  sprinkle  with  the  orange  juice  also.  Set 
the  fruit  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour  or  two.  Serve 
with  whipped  cream. 

If  one  prefer,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine  may  be  used 
instead  of  orange  juice. 


DESSERT.  735 


*  Baked  Bananas. 

Put  into  a  bowl  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  six  of 
sugar,  and  three  of  lemon  juice,  and  set  the  bowl  into 
a  pan  of  hot  water,  so  as  to  melt  the  butter.  Peel  the 
bananas,  and  lay  them  in  a  shallow  baking-pan  ;  it  must 
be  perfectly  clean,  and  the  bananas  must  not  touch  each 
other.  Baste  the  fruit  with  the  mixture  in  the  bowl,  and 
bake  for  half  an  hour,  basting  three  times  more. 

This  dish  is  nice  either  for  an  entree  or  for  dessert. 

*  Stewed  Apples  with  Cream. 

For  this  dish  use  three  pints  of  pared  and  quartered 
tart  apples,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  about  one-fourth  of  a 
grated  nutmeg,  one  pint  of  water,  one  scant  pint  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  and  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream,  sweetened 
with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

Put  the  water  and  sugar  in  a  saucepan,  and  boil  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  add  the  lemon  juice,  nutmeg, 
and  apples.  Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  set  it  where  its 
contents  will  cook  slowly  for  forty  minutes  ;  then  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  take  up  the  apples,  being  care- 
ful not  to  break  the  pieces,  and  to  avoid  taking  up  the 
syrup.  Return  the  saucepan  to  the  stove,  and  boil 
rapidly,  for  five  minutes,  the  syrup  that  remains ;  then 
pour  it  over  the  apples,  and  set  them  away  to  cool. 

At  serving-time  drain  the  cream  well,  and  sprinkle 
the  powdered  sugar  over  it,  stirring  gently  in  order  that 
the  two  may  get  well  mixed.  Heap  the  cream  upon  the 
cold  stewed  apple,  and  serve  at  once. 

*Iced  Apples. 

Pare,  core,  and  cook  apples  in  syrup,  as  when  they  are 
crystallized.  Put  them  in  the  oven  without  the  coating 
of  sugar,  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Now  cover  them 
with  a  thin  layer  of  me'ringue.  Sift  granulated  sugar 


736          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


over  this,  and  brown  it  slightly,  leaving  the  oven  door 
open. 

Let  the  syrup  in  which  they  were  stewed  boil  until 
there  is  only  about  a  gill  and  a  half  left.  Add  a  few 
drops  of  dissolved  cochineal.  Stir  well,  and  pour  into  a 
soup-plate.  When  this  liquid  becomes  cold  it  will  be 
a  firm  jelly.  Cut  it  in  squares,  and  decorate  the  tops 
of  the  apples  with  it.  Serve  soft  custard  or  cream  with 
the  apples. 

*  Crystallized  Apples. 

Put  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  two  of  water  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  on  the  fire.  Boil  for  five  minutes.  Now  put 
into  the  pan  as  many  pared  and  cored  whole  apples  as 
you  can  without  crowding.  Cook  very  gently  until  the 
fruit  becomes  tender,  yet  not  so  long  as  to  break  it; 
fchen  take  it  from  the  syrup,  and  place  it  in  a  shallow 
6aking-pan. 

Continue  in  this  way  until  eighteen  apples  have  been 
stewed.  Now  sprinkle  granulated  sugar  thickly  over  the 
apples,  and  then  put  them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Be 
careful  that  they  do  not  get  scorched.  When  the  sugar 
becomes  slightly  browned,  remove  the  apples  from  the 
oven,  and  arrange  them  on  a  flat  dish. 

Boil  the  syrup  in  which  they  were  cooked  until  there 
is  only  a  gill  and  a  half  left.  Pour  this  round,  but  not 
over,  the  apples.  When  it  is  cold,  put  the  fruit  in  a 
glass  dish,  taking  up  a  circle  of  jelly  with  each  one. 
Place  a  bit  of  currant  jelly  on  the  top  of  each  apple,  and 
serve. 

•*  Glazed  Apples  with  Cream. 

For  a  dozen  large  apples  use  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
sugar  and  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  water.  Put  one  cupful 
of  the  sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  the  water,  and  boil 
rapidly  for  twenty  minutes.  Pare  and  core  the  apples, 
keeping  them  whole.  Put  them  in  deep  earthen  plates 


DESSERT.  787 


or  shallow  cake-pans,  and  put  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  in 
the  centre  of  each  apple.  Baste  the  outside  of  each 
apple  with  about  half  a  table-spoonful  of  the  hot  syrup. 
Place  the  pan  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  bake  the 
fruit  until  it  is  tender,  basting  frequently  with  the  syrup. 
When  the  apples  are  done,  place  them  on  a  flat  dish,  and 
pour  over  them  the  juice  from  the  pan  in  which  they  were 
baked.  Serve  cold,  with  a  bowl  of  whipped  cream. 

*  Coddled  Apples. 

Pare  and  core  eighteen  tart  apples.  Put  a  quart  of 
water  and  a  pint  of  sugar  into  a  large  saucepan,  and  boil 
for  ten  minutes ;  then  put  into  the  boiling  syrup  as  many 
of  the  cored  apples  as  the  saucepan  will  hold  without 
crowding.  Cook  gently  until  a  broom-straw  can  be 
thrust  through  them;  and  when  they  are  done,  take 
them  up  carefully,  and  lay  them  on  a  large  plate  or 
platter.  When  all  have  been  cooked,  sprinkle  them  with 
granulated  sugar,  and  put  them  into  the  oven  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  set  away  on  the  platter  to  cool. 

Boil  the  syrup  down  to  a  pint,  and  cool  it.  At  serving- 
time  lift  the  apples  from  the  platter  to  a  glass  dish,  and 
pour  the  syrup  around  them.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
that  they  do  not  get  broken. 

Both  the  fruit  and  syrup  may  be  flavored  with  cinna- 
mon by  boiling  a  stick  of  the  spice  in  the  syrup,  or  with 
lemon  by  putting  the  thin  rind  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
on  to  boil  with  the  sugar  and  water.  If  the  apples  be 
tart,  they  will  require  no  flavoring. 

*  Apples  Baked  with  Butter. 

For  twelve  large  apples  use  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  water,  and  a 
little  nutmeg,  if  the  flavor  be  liked.  Pare  and  core  the 
apples,  being  careful  not  to  break  them.  Place  them  in 

47 


788          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

a  rather  shallow  earthen  dish,  and  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar  in  the  centre  of  each.  Put  the  water,  butter,  and 
remainder  of  the  sugar  into  a  little  stew-pan,  and  heat  to 
the  boiling-point.  Baste  the  apples  with  about  one- 
third  of  this  liquid,  and  put  them  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven.  Cook  until  they  are  perfectly  tender,  basting 
three  times  with  the  sugar,  water,  and  butter  in  the  pan. 
The  exact  time  for  cooking  cannot  be  given  because 
apples  vary  so  much  in  size  and  flavor.  A  good  tart 
apple  will  generally  cook  in  thirty-five  minutes. 

Half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  or  the  grated  rind 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  may  be  cooked  with  the  sugar, 
butter,  and  water.  If  nutmeg  be  used,  grate  half  of  a 
nutmeg  into  the  saucepan. 

These  apples  make  a  nice  dish  for  luncheon  or  tea. 
Sometimes  they  are  served  with  cream. 

• 

*  Baked  Quinces. 

Wash,  wipe,  pare,  and  core  a  dozen  quinces.  Place 
them  in  a  deep  earthen  dish,  and  fill  the  centres  with 
sugar.  Pour  a  cupful  of  water  into  the  dish,  and  sprinkle 
the  fruit  with  sugar,  using  a  cupful  for  the  filling  and 
sprinkling  combined.  Cover  the  dish,  and  set  it  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  bake  for  two  hours.  Serve  cold  with 
cream  and  sugar. 

Some  folks  think  it  an  improvement  to  put  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter  into  each  core  ;  but  the  use  of  butter 
is  not  recommended. 


*  Baked  Pears. 

Wash  the  pears  —  the  hard  kind  usually  sold  for  cook- 
ing—and put  them  into  a  deep  earthen  dish.  For  two 
dozen  large  ones  allow  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  quart  of 
boiling  water.  Bake  slowly  for  three  hours.  They  are 
nice  for  tea  or  dessert. 


DESSERT.  739 


*  Stewed  Prunes. 

Put  a  pound  of  prunes  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and 
let  them  stand  for  five  minutes  ;  then  wash  them  by 
rubbing  between  the  hands.  As  they  are  washed,  drop 
them  into  another  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  wash  them 
very  carefully  in  this  second  water.  Put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  with  a  quart  of  water  and  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  heat  them  slowly  to  the  boiling-point  j  then 
simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  Turn  into  an  earthen 
dish,  and  set  away  to  cool.  They  will  keep  for  several 
days  in  cold  weather. 

The  thorough  washing  and  slow  cooking  are  very 
necessary. 

*  Rhubarb  Sauce. 

Rhubarb  may  be  made  into  a  good  sauce  in  spring  and 
•early  summer.  It  should  be  fresh  and  tender  when  used. 
Pare  it,  and  cut  it  in  pieces  about  an  inch  long;  then 
wash  it,  and  put  it  into  an  earthen  baking-dish.  For 
each  quart  add  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of 
water.  Cover  the  dish  with  a  large  plate,  and  bake 
slowly  for  two  hours. 

Rhubarb  may  be  put  into  a  stew-pan  with  sugar 
and  water,  and  cooked  in  fifteen  minutes,  if  the  water 
boil  all  the  time ;  but  the  sauce  will  be  green  and  the 
rhubarb  broken,  whereas  by  the  first  method  a  rich- 
colored  sauce  may  be  obtained,  and  the  pieces  of  rhubarb 
kept  whole. 

*  Dinner  Apple  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  deep  earthen  dish  two  quarts  of  pared  and 
quartered  apples,  and  sprinkle  over  them  half  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  cupful  of 
water,  and  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  molasses.  Cut  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter  into  little  pieces,  and  sprinkle 
upon  the  ingredients.  Cover  the  dish  with  a  large  plate, 
and  bake  for  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 


740          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

If  you  prefer,  you  may  use  almost  a  cupful  of  either 
sugar  or  molasses  instead  of  the  smaller  quantities  of 
both  ingredients,  as  given  above.  At  any  rate,  if  the 
sauce  be  liked  exceedingly  sweet,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
increase  the  amount  of  sweetening  slightly,  whichever 
plan  be  followed. 

*  Evaporated   Apple   Sauce. 

In  the  spring  and  early  summer  the  housekeeper  often 
is  troubled  to  make  changes  in  sauces.  Most  of  the 
winter  fruits  have  gone  by ;  the  stock  of  canned  and  pre- 
served fruits  may  be  low,  and  the  only  fresh  fruits  in  the 
market  are  from  the  South,  and  are  so  high-priced  that 
the  housekeeper  of  moderate  means  does  not  think  of 
buying  them.  This  is  the  time  when  dried  and  evap- 
orated fruits  become  especially  desirable.  If  they  be 
properly  cooked  they  will  be  both  appetizing  and  health- . 
ful.  When  fruits  are  dried  they  are,  of  course,  exposed 
to  much  dust,  and  they  should  therefore  be  washed  very 
carefully  afterward. 

Here  is  a  receipt  for  evaporated  apple  sauce  :  Use  one 
pint  of  the  apples,  one  quart  of  water,  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  and  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Wash  the  apples  in  cold 
water,  rubbing  them  between  the  hands  the  same  as  in 
washing  rice.  Now  put  them  into  a  large  bowl  with  the 
quart  of  cold  water,  and  soak  them  over  night.  In  the 
morning  put  the  apples  and  water  into  a  porcelain, 
earthen,  or  granite-ware  stew-pan.  Add  the  lemon  juice 
and  sugar,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  back  part  of  the  range, 
where  its  contents  will  cook  slowly  for  three  hours.  Do 
not  stir  the  apples  while  they  are  cooking.  At  the  end 
of  the  three  hours  turn  the  sauce  into  a  bowl,  and  set 
away  to  cool. 

Another  way  of  cooking  the  apple  sauce  is  to  prepare 
it  as  above,  and  then  turn  it  into  a  deep  earthen  baking- 
dish.  Cover  with  a  large  plate,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven 
for  two  hours. 


DESSEKT.  741 


*  Evaporated  Peach   Sauce. 

Wash  and  soak  the  peaches  as  directed  for  apples.  In 
the  morning  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  half  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  and  cook  slowly  for  three  hours.  Cool,  and 
use.  More  or  less  sugar  may  be  used  if  the  quantity 
given  does  not  suit  the  individual  taste,  but  the  addition 
of  sugar  will  not  increase  the  healthfulness  of  the  dish. 


742          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


CAKE. 

IN  no  department  of  cookery  does  the  average  house- 
keeper need  less  instruction  than  in  cake-making.  It  is 
the  one  thing  pertaining  to  cookery  that  nearly  every 
American  girl  learns.  There  are  a  few  principles,  how- 
ever, which,  if  acted  upon,  will  make  the  \vork  easier  and 
the  results  more  certain. 

Remember  that  cake  and  pastry  do  not  belong  to  the 
necessaries  of  life ;  therefore,  if  you  cannot  afford  good 
materials  for  them,  do  not  attempt  to  provide  them  for 
your  table. 

The  First  Steps. 

In  making  cake  the  work  should  be  done  in  this  order : 
See  that  the  oven  is  right  for  baking,  and  if  coal  be  used, 
that  there  is  enough  on  the  fire  to  last  through  the  bak- 
ing. Butter  the  baking-pans,  always  using  washed  butter. 
If  the  pans  be  large,  line  them  with  thin  brown  paper, 
spreading Jt  smoothly  on  the  well-buttered  pans.  Meas- 
ure the  sugar,  flour  (which  should  first  be  sifted),  butter, 
spice,  and  seasoning.  Count  the  eggs  ;  then  break  them, 
and  separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites.  If  you  are  to 
use  baking-powder,  or  soda  and  cream-of-tartar,  add  them 
to  the  sifted  flour.  Mix  well,  and  sift  again.  If  fresh 
lemons  or  oranges  are  to  be  used,  grate  the  rind  and 
squeeze  out  the  juice.  Pour  hot  water  into  the  bowl  in 
which  the  cake  is  to  be  mixed.  If  the  water  be  boiling 
hot,  turn  it  out  again  immediately,  but  if  only  moder- 
ately hot  let  it  stand  for  about  half  a  minute.  Wipe  the 
bowl,  and  put  in  the  butter.  Work  it  with  a  spoon  until 
soft ;  then  beat  it  until  light  and  creamy.  Gradually 


CAKE.  748 


beat  the  sugar  into  the  butter.  When  the  mixture  is 
light  and  creamy,  add  the  flavor  and  spice,  if  any  are  to 
be  used.  Now  beat  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
and  the  milk  (if  milk  be  used),  a  little  at  a  time.  Add 
the  flour  and  the  well-beaten  whites.  Beat  vigorously  for 
half  a  minute.  Spread  the  batter  evenly  in  the  pans, 
having  it  a  little  deeper  at  the  sides  than  in  the  centre. 
This  will  insure  a  level  surface  for  the  loaf  when  it  is 
baked.  The  more  quickly  the  beating  and  mixing  of  the 
cake  are  done,  the  lighter  and  finer  will  be  the  cake. 

If  cake  is  to  be  baked  in  sheets  and  not  to  be  iced, 
sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over  it  before  putting  it  into 
the  oven.  This  will  give  a  smooth,  sugary  crust. 

The  sugar  used  for  cake  should  be  fine  granulated  in 
nearly  all  cases.  Powdered  sugar  makes  a  dry  cake  ; 
coarse  granulated  sugar  does  not  melt,  and  the  cake  made 
with  it  is  coarse  and  heavy. 

Baking  Cake. 

The  baking  of  the  cake  is  as  important  as  the  mixing. 
For  most  kinds  the  oven  should  be  rather  slow.  If  it  be 
too  hot  for  sponge  cake,  the  cake  will  sometimes  rise 
very  high  and  fall  again.  In  any  case  it  will  be  coarse- 
grained and  tough.  A  good  test  for  sponge  cake  is  to 
put  a  piece  of  white  paper  into  the  oven,  close  the  door, 
and  open  it  in  five  minutes.  If  the  paper  be  a  rich  yel- 
low, the  oven  is  right ;  but  if  it  be  light  yellow,  the  oven 
is  too  cool,  or  if  a  dark  brown,  it  is  too  hot. 

For  pound  cake  the  oven  should  be  just  hot  enough 
to  color  the  paper  light  brown.  Cup  cake  requires  an. 
oven  of  about  the  same  temperature.  It  may,  however, 
be  a  very  little  hotter  without  damage  to  the  cake. 
Molasses  gingerbread  and  all  the  thin-rolled  cakes  re- 
quire a  hotter  oven.  The  paper  should  turn  a  dark 
brown  in  five  minutes. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  cake  from 
being  jarred  while  it  is  baking,  particularly  when  the 


744          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

cake  is  semi-liquid,  as  it  always  is  when  it  has  been  in 
the  oven  only  a  little  while. 

When  the  cake  is  baked  it  is  a  good  plan  to  let  it  par- 
tially cool  in  the  pans.  A  delicate  cake  is  often  made 
heavy  by  the  jarring  when  it  is  taken  from  the  pan  hot. 

Sponge  Cake. 

In  making  sponge  cake  it  is  always  best  to  weigh  the 
materials  if  possible.  The  best  rule  for  sponge  cake  is 
the  weight  of  the  eggs  in  sugar  and  half  the  weight  of 
the  eggs  in  flour.  For  every  ten  eggs  use  the  juice  and 
rind  of  one  large  lemon. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  have  not  scales,  a  rule 
for  measuring  the  materials  is  given  in  the  chapter  en- 
titled "  What  All   Housekeepers   should   Know."     The 
method  of  mixing  the   cake  is  the  same  whether  the' 
materials  be  weighed  or  measured. 

For  two  sheets  of  cake  use  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of 
sugar,  two  and  a  half  of  pastry  flour,  —  or  if  new-process 
flour  be  used,  take  two  cupfuls  and  half  a  gill,  —  ten  eggs, 
and  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Have  the 
oven  properly  heated,  —  that  is,  only  moderately  hot. 
Butter  the  pans,  and  line  them.  Weigh  or  measure  the 
flour  and  sugar.  Grate  the  rind  of  the  lemon  on  the 
sugar.  Squeeze  the  juice  into  a  cup.  Break  the  eggs, 
putting  the  whites  in  a  large  mixing-bowl  and  the  yolks 
in  a  smaller  bowl.  Beat  the  yolks  with  the  egg-beater 
until  thick  and  light.  Add  the  sugar  to  them,  and  beat 
with  a  spoon  until  light.  Add  the  lemon  juice,  and  beat 
two  minutes  longer.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  cut  the  beaten  yolks  and  sugar  into  them, 
adding  a  spoonful  at  a  time.  This  work  must  be  done 
slowly  and  carefully.  When  this  is  all  cut  together,  add 
the  flour,  and  cut  it  in  slowly  and  carefully,  keeping  the 
whole  mass  light  and  spongy.  Pour  the  mixture  into 
the  two  pans,  and  bake  for  about  forty  minutes. 

The  oven  should  be  moderately  hot  throughout  the 


CAKE.  745 


baking ;  but  for  sponge  cake  it  is  very  essential  that  the 
oven  be  slow  at  first,  even  if  the  heat  be  increased  after 
the  first  twenty  minutes.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  give 
the  exact  time  of  baking,  as  the  thickness  of  the  loaves 
of  cake  and  the  heat  of  the  oven  vary.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  try  the  cake  with  a  straw. 

It  is  of  the  greatest  consequence  that  the  cake  shall 
not  be  jarred. 

*  Quaker  Sponge  Cake. 

Here  is  a  list  of  the  materials  needed :  half  a  dozen 
eggs,  one  capful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  two  cupfuls  of 
sifted  flour,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  extract. 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  on  the  stove  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, and  heat  to  the  boiling-point.  Put  the  eggs  into 
a  large  bowl,  and  beat  with  a  Dover  beater  for  five 
minutes.  Pour  the  hot  sugar  and  water  upon  the  beaten 
eggs,  and  beat  ten  minutes  longer.  Mix  the  baking- 
powder  and  flour,  and  sift  this  mixture  upon  that  which 
has  been  beaten.  Beat  quickly  and  vigorously.  Add 
the  lemon  extract,  and  pour  the  batter  into  buttered 
cake-pans.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Sponge  Fingers. 

Use  six  eggs,  a  scant  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  flour,  and  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  A 
little  extra  sugar  will  be  required  for  sprinkling  over  the 
ttngers. 

Have  large  sheets  of  paper  spread  on  tin  sheets.  Rub 
them  over  with  washed  butter.  When  this  has  been 
done,  dredge  the  paper  with  powdered  sugar.  Into  a 
large  pastry-bag  put  a  tin  tube  about  half  an  inch  in 
diameter  at  the  small  end,  and  put  a  small  stopper  in 
the  outer  end  of  the  tube.  See  that  the  oven  is  properly 


746 


MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


heated.  It  must  be  a  very  moderate  heat.  Put  a  piece 
of  white  paper  in  the  oven,  and  if  at  the  end  of  five 
minutes  it  is  a  yellow  color,  the  oven  is  all  right  for  the 
sponge  fingers.  Should  the  oven  be  too  hot  the  cake 
will  rise  and  then  fall.  Still,  it  must  be  hot  enough  to 
form  a  crust  on  the  cakes  quickly,  else  they  will  spread 
and,  of  course,  be  spoiled. 

Now  that  everything  is  ready,  make  the  cake.  Grate 
the  rind  of  the  lemon  on  the  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  very  light.  Add  the  sugar  to  them,  and  beat 
with  a  spoon  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and  light. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Add 
the  beaten  yolks  and  sugar  to  the  whites,  a  spoonful  at  a 
time.  Do  not  stir  the  mixture ;  cut  it  in  lightly.  Now 
sprinkle  in  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  cut  it  lightly 
into  the  preparation,  which  must  be  kept  dry  and  light. 
If  it  be  stirred  it  will  become  liquid  and  heavy.  When 
the  flour  has  been  added,  pour  the  preparation  into  the 
pastry-bag.  There  should  be  enough 
to  fill  about  two-thirds  of  the  bag. 
Twist  the  cloth  at  the  top,  and  con- 
tinue twisting  until  the  cake  mixture 
is  pressed  well  down.  Remove  the 
stopper  from  the  tube.  Hold  the  top 
part  of  the  bag  in  the  left  hand.  Place 
the  right  hand  under  the  bag  and  near 
the  tube,  having  the  thumb  come  on 
top.  Bring  the  point  of  the  tube  close 
to  the  buttered  paper  mentioned  in  the 
first  part  of  the  receipt,  and  apply  a 
slight  pressure  with  the  thumb  and 
fingers  of  the  right  hand.  This  will 
force  the  paste  out  of  the  bag  on  the 
paper.  Draw  the  bag  toward  you  very 
slowly,  continuing  the  pressure  all  the  while.  When  the 
sponge  fingers  are  long  enough,  remove  the  pressure,  and 
tip  the  point  of  the  bag  up.  This  will  stop  the  flow  of  the 


Pastry-bag. 


CAKE.  747 


Sponge  Fingers. 

mixture.  The  lingers  should  be  four  or  five  inches  long 
Press  them  out  in  rows  on  the  paper  until  all  the  prep- 
aration has  been  used.  Dredge  them  thickly  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  bake  for  about  twelve  minutes;  then 
remove  from  the  paper,  and  spread  on  a  dish  to  cool. 

White  Sponge  Fingers. 

Use  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  flour,  and  the  grated  yellow  rind 
of  an  orange.  Mix  the  sugar  and  orange  rind.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  With  a  spoon 
beat  the  sugar  into  the  beaten  whites ;  do  not  stir  it 
in.  Now  cut  in  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time.  Bake  the 
same  as  the  fingers  described  in  the  preceding  receipt. 

Rich  Cup  Cake. 

The  materials  needed  are :  one  cupful  of  butter,  two  of 
sugar,  four  scant  cupfuls  of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk, 
six  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  extract  of  almond,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  one 
teaspoouful  of  cream-of-tartar. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Gradually  beat  in  the 
sugar.  Add  the  flavors  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well 
beaten.  Beat  in  the  milk.  Add  the  flour,  mixed  with 
the  soda  and  cream-of-tartar.  Finally  add  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Bake  in  two  loaves  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  one  hour.  The  loaves  may  be  round  or  long ; 


748          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

or  half  the  batter  may  be  baked  in  a  loaf,  and  the  other 
half  in  two  thin  sheets. 

When  it  is  not  convenient  to  use  the  fresh  lemon  juice, 
substitute  one  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  lemon. 

*  Plain  Cup  Cake. 

For  two  sheets  of  cake  use  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a 
cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk,  two  cupfuls  and 
three-quarters  of  sifted  flour,  the  rind  and  juice  of  one 
lemon,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  two  of 
cream-of-tartar. 

Mix  the  flour,  soda,  and  cream-of-tartar,  and  sift  the 
mixture.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Gradually  beat 
in  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  till  light,  and  beat  them  into 
the  butter  and  sugar.  Now  add  the  milk,  and  lastly  the 
flour.  Beat  vigorously  for  half  a  minute.  Spread  the 
mixture  in  two  buttered  shallow  pans.  Sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar,  and  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Delicate  Cake. 

For  two  loaves  of  this  cake  use  one  cupful  of  butter, 
two  of  sugar,  one  of  milk,  three  and  one-half  of  sifted 
flour,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  one-eighth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  mace,  one  generous  teaspoonful  of 
cream-of-tartar,  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  the 
whites  of  eight  eggs. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  the 
sugar  into  it ;  then  add  the  wine  and  mace,  and  beat  two 
minutes  longer.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff, 
dry  froth.  Add  the  milk  to  the  butter  and  sugar  ;  then 
add  the  eggs,  and  finally  the  flour,  mixed  with  the  soda 
and  cream-of-tartar. 

Turn  the  mixture  into  two  deep  pans  that  have  been 
well  buttered,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 


CAKE.  749 


*  Plain  Spice  Cake. 

This  is  delicious.  It  is  made  of  an  egg,  two-thirds  of 
a  cupful  of  sugar,  the  same  quantity  of  molasses  and  of 
butter,  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  flour, 
measured  generously,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  level 
teaspoouful  of  cream-of-tartar,  one  table-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar or  lemon  juice,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  mixed 
spice. 

Beat  the  egg  well,  and  after  adding  to  it  the  molasses, 
sugar,  spice,  andsbutter,  —  the  latter  being  first  melted,  — 
beat  again.  Mix, the  soda  with  the  milk,  and  add  to  the 
other  mixture.  Mix  the  cream-of-tartar  with  the  flour, 
and  stir  into  the  batter ;  and  finally  add  the  vinegar  or 
lemon  juice.  Pour  into  two  shallow  pans,  and  bake  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Lemon  Cakes. 

For  about  two  dozen  small  cakes  use  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  flour,  four  eggs, 
the  grated  yellow  rind  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and 
one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda, 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  the 
sugar  into  it.  Add  the  grated  rind  of  the  lemon ;  then 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Dissolve  the  soda  in 
the  lemon  juice,  and  stir  this  into  the  other  mixture. 
Now  add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Lastly  add 
the  flour.  Bake  in  small  hearts,  rounds,  diamonds,  etc. 
When  cold,  ice  them. 

This  cake  may  be  baked  in  one  sheet  if  that  be  pre- 
ferred to  the  small  cakes. 

Pound  Cake. 

For  two  large  loaves  use  two  cupfuls  of  butter,  two  of 
sugar,  four  of  flour,  a  dozen  large  eggs,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  half  a  gill  of  brandy. 


750          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

Butter  the  pans,  and  line  them.  Measure  the  sugar, 
flour,  brandy,  and  cinnamon.  Separate  the  eggs,  putting 
the  whites  in  a  large  bowl  and  the  yolks  in  a  small  one. 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  the  sugar 
into  it.  When  the  mixture  is  light  and  creamy,  add  the 
brandy  and  mace.  Beat  the  yolks  till  light,  and  add 
them  to  the  beaten  mixture.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  stir  them  into  the  mixture,  alternating  with 
the  flour.  Pour  the  batter  into  the  pans,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  fifty  minutes. 

Rich  Fruit  Cake. 

For  four  large  loaves  use  one  quart  of  sugar,  one  pint 
of  butter,  one  quart  of  flour,  eighteen  eggs,  four  pounds 
of  stoned  raisins,  three  pounds  of  currants,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  citron,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  blanched 
and  pounded  almonds,  four  ounces  of  cinnamon,  six  nut- 
megs, one  ounce  of  mace,  one  of  clove,  and  one  pint  of 
brandy. 

Dredge  the  currants  and  raisins  with  one  cupful  of  the 
flour.  Mix  the  spice  with  the  remainder  of  the  flour. 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Gradually  beat  in  the  sugar. 
Add  the  brandy,  a  little  at  a  time,  beating  until  the  mass 
is  smooth  and  creamy.  Add  the  almonds,  and  beat  well. 
Now  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the 
whites.  Stir  the  flour  in  lightly,  then  the  raisins  and 
currants.  Spread  the  cake  mixture  in  layers  in  the  pans, 
and  spread  thin  slices  of  the  citron  on  each  layer.  Bake 
for  four  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Raisin  Cake. 

Use  for  two  loaves  a  generous  cupful  of  butter,  two  of 
sugar,  one  of  milk,  four  generous  cupfuls  of  flour,  five 
eggs,  one  gill  of  brandy,  two  nutmegs,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  and  one  quart  of  boiled  raisins. 

Put  the  raisins  in  a  small  stew-pan,  and  cover  them 


CAKE.  751 


with  cold  water.  Cook  them  slowly  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  drain  and  cool  them. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Beat  the  sugar  into  it ; 
add  the  brandy  and  nutmeg,  and  beat  a  little  longer. 
Add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  the  milk,  and  add  this  to  the  beaten  ingredients. 
Now  add  the  flour.  Stir  in  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
the  eggs.  Spread  the  batter  in  thin  layers  in  two  large 
cake-pans,  and  sprinkle  raisins  on  each  layer.  Continue 
this  until  all  the  materials  are  used.  Bake  for  two  hours 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

This  cake  keeps  well. 

Raised  Loaf  Cake. 

For  three  loaves  use  two  quarts  of  flour,  two  cupfuls 
of  butter,  two  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  one  teacupful  of  yeast,  or  two- thirds  of  a  yeast 
cake  dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  of  water,  three  eggs,  one 
gill  of  wine,  one  nutmeg  grated,  one  pound  of  stoned 
raisins,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream.  Heat  the  milk  to 
the  temperature  of  about  100°.  Pour  it  into  a  large  bowl, 
and  add  the  yeast.  Gradually  beat  into  this  liquid  a  quart 
and  half  a  pint  of  flour.  Work  half  of  the  creamed  sugar 
and  butter  into  this  dough.  Cover,  and  let  it  rise  over  night. 
In  the  morning  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  except  the 
raisins,  having  the  eggs  well  beaten.  It  will  be  necessary 
to  use  the  hands  to  work  the  ingredients  together.  Cover, 
and  raise  it  once  more.  When  it  has  risen  to  a  sponge, 
add  the  raisins,  and  pour  the  batter  into  three  buttered 
pans.  Let  it  rise  in  the  pans  for  one  hour.  Bake  for  an 
hour  and  a  half. 

.        _          ,.     _     ,  <T3ffS 

Fig  Loaf  Cake. 

Use  two  cupfuls  of  dark  brown  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
one  of  water,  three  and  one-fourth  of  flour,  four  eggs, 


752          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

one  teaspoonful  each  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  clove,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  half  a  pound  of  figs,  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  two 
cupfuls  of  raisins. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  beat  the  sugar  into  it. 
Add  the  spice  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Now  add  the 
water,  and  finally  three  cupfuls  of  the  flour,  with  which 
the  baking-powder  should  be  mixed.  Dredge  the  fruit 
with  the  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  flour.  Bake  in  two 
loaves  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours. 


*  Bread  Cake. 

For  .three  loaves  use  two  generous  cupfuls  of  yeast- 
bread  dough,  two  generous  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  four  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  of  cinnamon,  one  of 
grated  nutmeg,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  and  half  a 
pound  of  chopped  raisins. 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together ;  then  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the  spice.  Now  add 
the  dough,  cut  into  bits,  and  work  well  together.  Next 
add  the  milk ;  also  the  soda,  dissolved  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water.  Work  very  thoroughly  ;  and  when 
all  the  ingredients  are  blended,  add  the  flour.  Continue 
the  mixing,  gradually  working  in  the  fruit.  Finally  add 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  the 
batter  into  three  well-buttered  pans,  and  let  it  rise  for 
one  hour.  Bake  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 


Twelfth-Night  Cake. 

There  has  been  a  tendency  in  late  years  to  revive  old 
customs  and  amusements,  and  among  the  ancient  diver- 
tisements  that  have  come  into  favor  is  the  cutting  of  the 
Twelfth-Night  cake  on  January  6,  —  the  twelfth  day  after 
Christmas,  and  sometimes  called  "  Little  Christmas."  A 


CAKE.  753 

long  time  ago  the  observances  of  Twelfth  Night  were 
strictly  of  a  religious  character,  but  they  changed  mate- 
rially, and  the  feature  of  the  holiday  became  the  elec- 
tion of  the  King  of  the  Bean.  A  rich  or  plain  round 
cake  was  made,  containing  a  bean,  a  pea,  and  a  clove  j 
and  it  was  iced,  and  handsomely  ornamented.  When 
the  family  and  their  friends  had  gathered  in  the  evening, 
the  cake  was  cut ;  and  he  who  got  the  bean  was  declared 
king,  and  she  who  found  the  pea  was  queen,  while  the 
possessor  of  the  clove  was  called  the  knave.  The  others 
in  the  company  were,  for  the  time,  maids  of  honor  and 
ministers  of  state.  Sometimes  the  festival  began  early 
in  the  day,  and  was  continued  until  midnight. 

In  the  revival  of  the  celebration  the  cake  has,  of  course, 
a  prominent  place.  Many  games  have  been  added.  For 
example,  Twelfth-Night  crackers  (resembling  favors  for 
the  german)  are  provided ;  and  as  they  are  pulled  apart 
by  ladies  and  gentlemen,  an  explosion  is  caused.  Within 
each  cracker  will  be  found  two  pictures,  which  serve  a 
souvenirs  ;  and  the  characters  they  represent  should  be 
assumed  during  the  evening,  making  a  carnival. 

To  return  to  the  cake,  it  is  best  to  have  a  plain  one 
for  this  occasion,  because  many  people  cannot  eat  rich 
fruit  cake,  and  also  because  of  the  difficulty  that  might 
be  experienced  in  finding  the  bean,  pea,  and  clove  in  a 
quantity  of  fruit.  By  following  the  appended  rule  a 
cake  will  be  made  sufficiently  rich  for  most  tastes  :  — 

Use  one  cupful  of  butter,  two  of  granulated  sugar,  four 
of  flour,  one  of  milk,  five  eggs,  the  rind  and  juice  of  a 
lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of -tartar,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  s«da.  For  the  decorations  there  will  be 
required  three  cupful s  of  powdered  sugar,  the  whites  of 
three  eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  half  a 
pound  of  French  candied  cherries,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  angelica,  unless  the  same  amount  of  French 
candied  almonds  be  preferred.  There  should  be  three 
fancy  figures  to  represent  the  king,  queen,  and  knave; 


754          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  for  the  centre  of  the  cake  there  should  be  a  crowu 
or  a  tiny  Christmas-tree. 

To  make  the  cake,  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  grad- 
ually beat  into  it  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice  and  grated 
rind.  Add  the  milk,  then  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  finally 
the  flour,  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soda  and  cream-of- 
tartar.  Have  at  hand  a  large  round  pan,  well  buttered, 
and  pour  the  mixture  into  it.  Drop  the  bean  and  clove 
into  one  side  of  the  cake,  marking  their  location  by  two 
clean  broom-straws,  and  drop  the  pea  into  the  other  side. 
The  straws  will  not  make  the  cake  heavy,  and  can  be 
drawn  out  at  the  proper  time.  Place  the  pan  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

After  the  cake  has  been  baked  and  has  become  par- 
tially cool,  put  the  white  of  one  egg  into  a  bowl,  and 
gradually  stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Spread 
this  mixture  over  the  cake,  and  while  it  is  hardening, 
make  the  icing  for  decoration.  Put  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  into  them  two  cupfuls  of  con- 
fectioners' sugar.  The  addition  of  sugar  should  be  made 
very  slowly,  about  two  minutes  being  used  for  each  table- 
spoonful.  Probably  an  hour  will  be  needed  for  beating 
the  icing.  Add  the  lemon  juice,  and  beat  about  three 
minutes  longer. 

Spread  a  thin  coat  of  this  icing  over  the  cake.  Have 
ready  a  bag  made  by  folding  a  piece  of  rubber  sheeting, 
about  ten  inches  square,  into  a  triangular  shape,  and  sew- 
ing the  two  edges  together.  Cut  the  rubber  at  the  apex 
just  enough  to  permit  a  confectioners'  small  tube  to  be 
pushed  through,  —  a  tube  having  at  its  point  small  teeth 
like  those  of  a  saw.  Pour  the  remainder  of  the  icing 
into  this  bag,  and  decorate  the  cake  with  it.  Part  should 
be  pressed  through  the  tube,  and  formed  in  a  wreath  on 
top  of  the  cake,  and  near  the  edge.  Another  wreath 
should  be  put  around  the  side  of  the  cake,  and  near  the 
top,  and  a  third  at  the  base.  Make  also  a  small  circle 
in  the  centre  of  the  top. 


CAKE.  755 


Have  the  cherries  cut  in  two,  and  the  angelica  cut  in 
half-disks.  Dispose  the  cherries  tastefully  on  the  large 
wreath  on  top  of  the  cake,  and  also  on  that  at  the  bottom, 
and  arrange  the  angelica  on  the  wreath  at  the  top  of  the 
sides,  as  well  as  on  the  small  circle  in  the  centre.  It  is 
important  throughout  the  work  not  to  lose  knowledge  of 
the  location  of  the  bean,  pea,  and  clove.  Withdraw  the 
straws,  and  set  the  figures  of  the  king  and  knave  on 
the  side  containing  the  bean  and  clove,  and  the  figure  of 
the  queen  on  that  in  which  the  pea  was  put.  Place  the 
little  tree  in  the  centre. 

In  serving  the  cake,  the  part  containing  the  pea  should 
be  offered  to  the  ladies,  and  the  other  half  to  the  gentle- 
men. It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  a  very  plain 
cake,  with  a  simple  icing,  and  a  little  color  in  the  way 
of  candied  fruit  or  confectionery,  may  afford  just  as  good 
sport  as  that  made  by  the  foregoing  receipt;  but  the 
design  is  to  show  how  a  genuine  Twelfth-Night  cake  is 
made,  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  directions  may  not,  be- 
cause of  their  fulness,  give  anybody  the  erroneous 
impression  that  the  work  is  very  difficult. 

Mocha  Cake. 

There  are  three  divisions  in  the  making  of  this  cake, 
giving  the  receipt  the  appearance  of  intricacy,  although 
the  work  is  really  simple  enough.  For  the  first  step 
these  ingredients  are  required :  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a 
cupful  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  corn-starch,  a  scant 
half-cupful  of  milk,  a  cupful  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Butter  two 
shallow  cake-pans,  and  line  them  with  paper.  Next  beat 
the  half-cupful  of  butter  till  creamy,  and  gradually  beat 
the  sugar  into  it.  Mix  the  flour,  cream-of-tartar,  and 
soda,  and  rub  through  a  sieve ;  mix  also  the  corn-starch 
and  milk.  Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add 


756          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

the  corn-starch  and  milk  to  the  blended  butter  and  sugar, 
and  then  add  the  egg  froth  and  the  flour.  Mix  thor- 
oughly but  quickly,  and  spread  the  batter  in  the  cake- 
pans.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  half  an  hour. 

While  the  cake  is  cooking,  make  some  mocha  cream. 
Tie  loosely,  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  four  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fine-ground  coffee,  and  after  putting  it  into 
a  coffee-pot,  pour  upon  it  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
After  boiling  gently  for  ten  minutes,  remove  the  coffee- 
pot from  the  stove  ;  and  ten  minutes  later,  pour  out  the 
liquid.  Eeserve  three  table-spoonfuls,  and,  putting  the 
remainder  into  a  large  cup,  add  milk  enough  to  fill  to 
the  brim.  Put  this  liquid  mixture  on  the  stove  in  a 
double-boiler.  Beat  together  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
a  cupful  of  sugar,  an  egg,  and  the  yolks  of  those  four 
eggs  the  whites  of  which  were  used  for  the  cake.  Stir 
this  mixture  into  the  coffee  when  it  boils,  and  cook  for 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Set  the  mixture 
where  it  will  cool,  and  when  it  is  only  blood-warm,  beat 
into  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  little  at  a  time. 
Spread  on  one  sheet  of  the  cake,  and,  placing  over  it  the 
remaining  sheet,  ice  the  top. 

Make  the  icing  in  this  way  :  Into  the  unbeaten  white 
of  an  egg  gradually  beat  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar ; 
then  add  the  three  reserved  spoonfuls  of  coffee,  and 
after  beating  well,  add  enough  sugar  to  stiffen  the  icing, 
—  perhaps  half  a  cupful,  though  only  a  small  quantity 
at  a  time.  Spread  the  icing  upon  the  cake,  and  set  away 
to  harden  somewhat.  It  should,  however,  be  soft  rather 
than  brittle. 

Portsmouth  Orange  Cake. 

This  calls  for  four  large  eggs,  a  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar,  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  a  cupful  of  flour, 
measured  after  a  sifting,  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
four  sweet  oranges,  and  the  rind  and  juice  of  half  a 
lemon. 


CAKE.  757 


Grate  the  rind  of  one  of  the  oranges  into  a  deep  plate, 
and  squeeze  upon  it  the  juice  of  half  the  orange.  Add  a 
saltspoonful  of  tartaric  acid.  Let  the  grated  rind  and 
the  juice  stand  for  at  least  half  an  hour,  and  meanwhile 
mix  the  baking-powder  with  the  flour,  and  then  sift  the 
latter  for  a  second  timer 

Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks.  Add 
the  sugar  to  the  yolks,  and  beat  until  very  light ;  then 
add  the  lemon  rind  and  juice,  and  beat  again.  Beat  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them,  together  with  the 
flour,  into  the  blended  yolks  and  sugar.  This  work  must 
be  done  lightly  and  quickly,  portions  of  the  flour  and 
egg  being  added  alternately,  and  the  mixture  being  cut 
lightly  with  a  spoon.  Bake  in  two  shallow  pans  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  eighteen  minutes. 

While  the  cake  is  baking  and  then  cooling,  prepare  the 
oranges  and  icing.  To  make  the  icing,  pour  upon  the 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar  the  orange  juice  and  rind  that 
were  put  aside  at  the  outset ;  and  with  a  good  stirring 
the  work  is  completed.  If  the  orange  was  very  large 
and  juicy,  more  than  a  cupful  of  sugar  may  be  needed ; 
if,  on  the  contrary,  it  was  not  large,  a  little  more  juice 
may  be  required  than  can  be  extracted  from  half  the 
orange.  The  icing  should  be  thick  enough  for  spreading 
smoothly  and  thickly  over  the  cake. 

Pare  the  three  and  a  half  remaining  oranges,  and  with 
a  sharp  knife  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  lengthwise.  Re- 
move all  the  seeds.  When  the  cake  has  partially  cooled, 
spread  upon  one  sheet  the  sliced  orange  and  the  juice 
which  is  drawn  in  the  act  of  slicing.  Lay  the  second 
sheet  upon  the  first,  and  after  spreading  with  icing,  set 
away  until  the  icing  has  become  hard.  The  cake  will  be 
ready  in  an  hour  or  two. 

Lemon  Jelly  Cake. 

This  cake  is  made  of  a  teacupful  of  sweet  cream, 
two  teacupfuls  of  sugar,  two  of  flour,  two  eggs,  a  tea- 


758          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

spoonful  of  cream-of-tartar,  and  half  as  much  soda. 
Beat  the  eggs  till  very  light;  then  add  the  sugar,  and 
beat  five  minutes  longer.  Add  the  cream,  and  finally 
the  flour,  with  the  soda  and  cream-of-tartar  mixed  with 
it.  Wash  a  small  quantity  of  butter  in  cold  water,  so  as 
to  extract  all  salt  from  it ;  then  use  it  for  buttering  four 
deep  tin  plates.  Pour  the  batter  into  these  plates,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes. 

To  make  the  jelly  or  filling,  take  a  cupful  of  sugar,  the 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  the  juice  of  one  and  a  half, 
two  eggs,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Beat  the 
eggs  well,  and  then  put  all  the  ingredients  on  the  stove, 
in  a  basin,  to  cook  for  seven  minutes  over  a  slow  fire. 
Stir  all  the  while.  On  taking  the  mixture  from  the  fire, 
let  it  cool ;  then  spread  upon  two  of  the  cakes,  and  place 
the  remaining  cakes  upon  the  first  two. 

Lemon  jelly  cake  should  not  be  made  unless  it  is  to  be 
served  fresh. 

Chocolate   Cake. 

Use  six  eggs,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  Baker's  chocolate,  the  grated  rind  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  cinnamon,  clove,  and  baking-powder, 
and  about  two  table-spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  may  seem  like  a  small  quantity,  but  is 
enough. 

Grate  the  chocolate,  and  add  to  it  the  spice,  flour,  and 
baking-powder.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs ;  and  after 
adding  the  sugar,  beat  until  very  light.  Add  the  lemon 
juice  and  rind;  and*  when  all  these  ingredients  have 
been  well  blended,  put  the  dry  mixture  with  them.  At 
the  last  moment,  taking  a  spoon,  cut  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  which  should  previously  be  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth.  Pour  about  half  an  inch  thick  into  shallow  pans, 
and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Two 
sheets  may  be  made  with  this  quantity  of  batter.  When 


CAKE.  759 


they  are  cool,  spread  one  sheet  with  a  thin  layer  of 
currant  jelly,  and  place  the  other  upon  the  first.  If 
you  choose,  frost  lightly  with  soft  icing,  and  cut  into 
squares. 

This  is  a  nice  cake  even  without  icing,  and  is  espe- 
cially good  with  vanilla  ice-cream.  Indeed,  it  is  more 
like  a  delicate  confection  than  a  cake.  If  one  conclude 
to  have  an  icing,  it  should  be  made  by  breaking  an  egg 
into  a  bowl,  gradually  adding  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  beating  well  with  a  spoon.  Half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract  gives  the  proper  flavor. 


Use  three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three  of  flour,  eight  eggs 
(putting  aside  the  white  of  one  for  the  filling,  which  is 
to  be  made  later),  six  table -spoonfuls  of  water,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until 
light.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth.-  Mix  the  baking- 
powder  and  flour.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  water  to 
the  beaten  yolks  and  sugar;  then  add  the  whites,  and 
finally  the  flour  and  baking-powder.  Spread  this  mix- 
ture in  three  shallow  pans  that  have  been  well  buttered, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Meanwhile  make  the  filling,  taking  for  this  purpose, 
four  ounces  of  chocolate,  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  the  white  of  an  egg. 
Scrape  the  chocolate,  and  put  it  into  a  small  frying-pan 
with  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar  and.  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  hot  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the 
mixture  becomes  smooth  and  glossy  ;  then  add  the  re- 
mainder of  the  boiling  water,  the  cream,  and  the  remain- 
der of  the  sugar.  Stir  until  the  mixture  boils  up,  and 
then  add  the  spoonful  of  vanilla  extract  and  the  white  of 
the  egg,  beaten  well. 


760          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

When  the  filling  gets  cool,  spread  it  between  the  sheets 
of  cake,  thus  having  two  layers  of  chocolate  and  three  of 
cake.  A  thin  coating  of  chocolate  may  be  put  on  the  top 
sheet  of  cake. 


This  delicious  cake  is  made  in  three  parts,  as  follows  : 

First.  —  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half 
a  cupful  of  milk,  half  a  cupful  of  grated  chocolate,  the 
yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 
Beat  the  mixture  well,  and  place  it  on  the  stove.  Stir 
frequently  until  it  begins  to  boil ;  then  let  it  simmer 
until  it  becomes  smooth.  Set  away  to  cool. 

Second.  —  Beat  half  a  cupful  of  butter  until  it  becomes 
creamy,  and  gradually  beat  into  it  one  cupful  of  sugar. 
Add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  in  which 
a  scant  teaspoonful  of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  two  cup- 
fuls  of  flour,  and  finally  the  cooled  chocolate  mixture. 
Bake  in  four  deep  tin  plates,  in  a  moderate  oven,  for 
about  twenty  minutes.  When  the  cakes  are  cool,  spread 
between  them,  and  over  the  top  sheet,  layers  of  icing 
made  as  follows:  — 

Third.  —  Boil  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  with  one-fourth  of 
a  cupful  of  water  for  five  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  pour  the  hot  syrup  upon 
them,  beating  all  the  while.  The  syrup  must  be  poured 
in  a  thin,  thread-like  stream. 

Cream  Walnut  Cake. 

This  is  made  in  three  parts,  —  first  the  cake  proper, 
then  the  icing,  and  finally  the  filling. 

To  Make  the  Cake.  —  Use  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half 
a  cupful  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  cupfuls 
of  sifted  flour,  two  eggs,  and  two  level  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and 
gradually  beat  into  it  the  sugar ;  then  add  the  eggs, 


CAKE.  761 


well  beaten ;  next  the  milk,  and  afterward  the  flour, 
mixed  with  the  baking-powder.  Spread  this  mixture 
smoothly  in  four  deep  jelly-cake  plates,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  eighteen  minutes.  On  taking  the 
cakes  from  the  oven  place  them  on  plates  ;  and  when 
they  have  become  partially  cooled,  ice  two  of  them. 

To  Make  the  Icing.  —  Put  the  white  of  a  small  egg 
into  a  bowl,  and  gradually  beat  into  it  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sherry.  The  icing  will  be  very  thin,  but  this  is  what  is 
desired. 

To  Make  the  Filling.  —  Soak  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
gelatine  in  four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  Put  a  generous  quart  of  whipped  and  drained 
cream  into  a  small  tin  or  granite-ware  basin,  and%place 
this  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice-water.  Sprinkle  over  the 
cream  four  table-spoonfuls  of%  powdered  sugar  and  two 
of  sherry.  Pour  two  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water 
over  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  until  the  latter  is  dis- 
solved. Strain  the  liquid  into  the  cream,  stirring  from 
the  bottom  all  the  while.  When  the  mixture  has  become 
so  thick  that  a  spoonful  of  it  will  not  sink  into  the  rest 
when  dropped,  it  will  be  ready  for  spreading  on  the 
cake. 

Spread  half  of  the  cream  on  the  two  cakes  that  have 
not  been  iced.  Sprinkle  over  these  same  cakes  one- 
third  of  a  cupful  of  fine-chopped  English  walnuts?  and 
spread  the  remainder  of  the  cream  over  all.  Put  the 
iced  cakes  on  top,  and  set  away  in  a  cold  place.  The 
cakes  may  be  decorated  with  cream  walnuts  obtained  of 
a  confectioner. 

Othello  Cake. 

For  the  cake  there  will  be  required  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  and  three- 
fourths  of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  the  whites  of  two 
eggs,  and  the  yolks  of  four,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 


762          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  one 
ounce  of  chocolate. 

Scrape  the  chocolate,  and  put  it  in  a  small  frying-pan 
with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  water.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and 
gradually  beat  into  it  the  sugar.  Place  the  frying-pan 
with  the  chocolate  over  a  hot  fire,  and  stir  until  the 
chocolate  mixture  is  smooth  and  glossy.  Add  this  and 
the  vanilla  to  the  creamed  sugar  and  butter.  Beat  well ; 
then  gradually  beat  in  the  milk.  Next  add  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  well  beaten ;  then  the  flour,  in  which  the  baking- 
powder  has  been  mixed;  and  finally  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  well  beaten.  Spread  this  mixture  in  four  well- 
buttered  Washington-pie  plates.  Bake  about  eighteen 
minuses  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Icing.  —  For  the  icing  use  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  two 
cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  two  ounces  of  chocolate,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ex- 
tract, and  one  pint  of  walnut  meats. 

Put  aside  half  a  pint  of  whole  walnut  meats  ;  chop  the 
remainder  moderately  coarse.  Scrape  the  chocolate,  and 
put  it  in  a  small  frying-pan  with  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  water.  Put  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  in  a  bowl,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
sugar  to  them.  Beat  for  five  minutes  ;  then  add  another 
table-spoonful  of  sugar.  Continue  this  until  all  the  sugar 
has  been  beaten  into  the  eggs.  Now  put  the  frying-pan 
over  a  hot  fire,  and  stir  until  the  chocolate  is  smooth  and 
glossy.  Pour  this  preparation  into  the  icing ;  add  the 
vanilla,  and  stir  well.  Put  two  of  the  cakes  on  plates  ; 
spread  a  layer  of  the  icing  on  each  cake.  Sprinkle  the 
chopped  walnut  meat  over  the  icing,  and  put  the  other 
two  cakes  on  top  of  the  first  two.  Cover  them  with 
icing,  and  decorate  with  the  whole  walnut  meats.  Set 
in  a  cool  place  to  harden  the  icing. 


CAKE. 

Neapolitan  Cake. 

This  cake  is  made  of  four  colors,  —  white  and  pink, 
yellow  arid  brown.  For  the  white  and  pink  cake  use 
half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  of  sugar,  two  cupfuls  of 
flour,  half  a  cupful  of  inilk,  the  whites  of  four  eggs, 
one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  extract,  and  about  one  teaspoonful  of  liquid 
cochineal.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  gradually  beat 
in  the  sugar.  Add  the  flavor.  Beat  in  the  milk,  a  little 
at  a  time.  Add  the  flour,  in  which  the  baking-powder  has 
been  well  mixed ;  and  last  of  all,  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  well  beaten.  Spread  one-half  of  this  batter  in  a 
shallow  cake-pan  ;  to  the  other  half  add  the  cochineal,  a 
few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  mixture  is  colored  pink. 
Spread  this  in  a  second  pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

For  the  yellow  and  brown  cake  use  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  one  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  one  and  three- 
fourths  cupfuls  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one 
whole  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  ounce 
of  chocolate,  three  additional  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  table-spoonful  of  water,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract.  Make  the  cake  the  same  as  the  white 
and  piuk.  Put  the  scraped  chocolate,  the  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  the  water  in  a  small  frying-pan  ; 
stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth  and  glossy.  Add  this 
to  one-half  of  the  cake  batter.  Bake  the  yellow  and 
brown  cake  in  two  pans,  like  those  in  which  the  white 
and  pink  were  baked,  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
twenty-two  minutes.  Beat  three  table-spoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar  into  the  unbeaten  white  of  one  egg ;  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  orange  juice  to  this.  Spread  a  thin 
layer  of  this  icing  on  the  pink  cake;  place  the  white 
cake  on  it,  and  spread  over  this  a  thin  layer  of  the  icing. 
Add  the  yellow  cake,  and  spread  the  remainder  of  the 
icing  on  itj  and  place  the  brown  cake  on  this.  Put  a 


764          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

sheet  of  tin  on  top  of  the  last  layer,  and  on  the  tin  place 
two  bricks.  Let  the  cake  stand  for  an  hour  or  two,  and 
then  take  off  the  weights.  This  cake  may  be  frosted  or 
not,  as  one  pleases. 

October  Cake. 

Make  half  of  the  rule  for  rich  cup  cake.  Spread  it  in 
three  Washington-pie  plates,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Make  half  the  rule  for  boiled 
icing,  but  boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes.  Add 
to  it  a  generous  half-cupful  of  cocoanut,  freshly  grated, 
or  about  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  the  desiccated  cocoanut. 
Make  the  rule  for  chocolate  icing,  using,  however,  only 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Beat  half  a  tumbler  of 
currant  jelly  until  so  smooth  that  it  will  spread  easily. 
Put  one  cake  on  a  large  plate,  and  spread  the  cocoanut 
icing  on  it ;  place  a  cake  on  top  of  this,  and  spread  the 
chocolate  icing  on  it.  Now  put  the  third  cake  on  top  of 
the  others,  and  spread  the  jelly  over  it.  The  icings  and 
jellies  are  to  be  spread  so  that  they  shall  run  over  the 
edges  of  the  cake,  the  mingled  colors  giving  the  autumnal 
effect. 

Cocoanut  Cake. 

Half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  cupf uls 
of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  half  a  cupful  of  desiccated 
cocoanut,  or  one  cupful  of  freshly  grated  fruit,  the  whites 
of  three  eggs,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cream-of-tartar,  and  one  level  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Soak  the  cocoanut  in  the  milk.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream ;  beat  the  sugar  into  it ;  add  the  lemon  juice,  and 
beat  two  minutes  longer.  Now  add  the  milk  and  cocoa- 
nut,  and  beat  well.  Then  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  the  flour,  in  which  the  soda 
and  cream-of-tartar  have  been  mixed.  Beat  quickly,  and 
pour  into  two  shallow  pans.  Bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven. 


CAKE.  765 


Ice-cream  Cake. 

For  the  cake  proper  there  will  be  required  half  a  cup- 
ful of  butter,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar,  two  cupfuls 
of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  the  whites  of  five  eggs, 
two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  into 
it  the  sugar,  and  then  the  vanilla.  Now  add  the  milk, 
and  also  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Finally  stir  in  the  flour  and  baking-powder,  mixed  to- 
gether. Pour  this  batter  into  shallow  cake-pans  that 
have  been  well  buttered,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes.  When  cool,  ice. 

To  make  the  icing,  put  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar 
into  a  stew-pan  with  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  When  the  syrup  is  cooked,  pour  it 
gradually  upon  the  beaten  whites.  There  should  be  only 
a  thin  stream  of  syrup,  and  the  eggs  should  be  beaten  all 
the  while  the  syrup  is  poured.  Two  persons  can  do  this 
work  better  than  one.  Continue  beating  the  whites  for 
two  .minutes  after  all  the  syrup  has  been  added ;  then 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Spread  a  thick  layer  of  the  icing  on  one  sheet  of  the 
cake.  Place  the  other  sheet  on  top  of  the  first,  and  ice 
the  top  and  sides.  The  cake  will  be  ready  for  use  in  an 
hour.  It  may  be  kept  for  days. 

*Hot  Tea  Cake. 

Beat  together  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  and  when  they  are  well  mixed  add  two  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Continue  the  beating  for  a  while,  and  then 
add  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk.  Put  two  cupfuls  of  sifted 
flour  into  a  sieve  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  after  mixing  the  two  ingredients  well,  sift 
them  into  the  bowl  containing  the  first  mixture.  Stir 


766          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

well,  and  season  with  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  two  buttered  shallow  pans,  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 


*  Blueberry  Cake. 

For  two  sheets  of  cake  take  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  an  egg,  three  cupf uls  of  blueberries,  — 
or  more,  if  you  choose,  —  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  cupf  uls 
and  a  half  of  sifted  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  a  light  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Bub  the  butter  and  sugar  together.  Break  the  egg 
upon  this  mixture,  and  beat  thoroughly;  then  add  the 
milk,  and  next  the  flour,  in  which  the  nutmeg  and  baking- 
powder  have  been  mixed.  Beat  quickly  and  vigorously, 
and  afterward  stir  in  the  berries  very  gently.  Pour  into 
buttered  pans,  and  bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven  for  thirty- 
five  minutes. 

*  Poverty  Cake. 

Make  this  of  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  cupfuls  and  a 
half  of  sifted  flour,  one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter 
(lard  or  drippings  will  do),  one  teaspoonful  of  cream-of- 
tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  or  one  teaspoonful  and 
a  half  of  baking-powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one  cupful  of  milk. 

Have  the  butter  soft,  and  rub  it  together  with  the 
sugar.  Mix  the  soda  with  the  flour,  and  rub  through 
the  sieve.  Add  the  milk  to  the  sugar  and  butter ;  then 
add  the  flour  and  a  little  nutmeg.  Bake  in  shallow  pans 
in  a  rather  quick  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

A  few  currants  make  a  pleasant  change.  The  quanti- 
ties given  will  make  two  sheets. 

*  Soft  Sugar  Gingerbread. 

This  is  a  delicious  gingerbread,  and  is  made  of  two 
cupfuls  of  .sugar,  one  of  milk,  three  of  flour,  two-thirds  of 
a  cupful  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  creamof- 


CAKE.  767 


tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  one  table-spoonful 
of  bright  yellow  ginger. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  the 
sugar  into  it.  Add  the  ginger,  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
the  milk,  and  finally  the  flour,  mixed  with  the  soda 
and  cream-of-tartar.  Spread  this  batter  in  four  buttered 
shallow  cake-pans,  and  bake  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in 
a  rather  quick  oven.  On  removing  the  gingerbread  from 
the  oven,  sprinkle  it  with  sugar.  Cut  it  into  broad  strips, 
and  spread  on  a  large  dish  to  cool.  It  will,  of  course,  be 
very  thin.  If  one  prefer,  ginger  not  so  strong  as  the 
yellow  kind  may  be  used. 

*Troy  Molasses  Cake. 

Mix  together  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of 
molasses,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Dissolve  an 
even  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  half  a  cupful  of  sweet 
milk,  and  add  it  to  the  mixture ;  add  also  an  egg,  well- 
beaten  ;  and  after  mixing  all  these  ingredients  thor- 
oughly, add  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Give  the  batter  another 
good  stirring,  and  spreading  it  two  inches  thick  in 
shallow  tin  pans,  bake  it  in  a  rather  quick  oven  for  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  This  cake  when  hot  is 
particularly  nice  for  luncheon. 

*  Delicate  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

Use  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  measured  after  sifting,  one 
cupful  of  molasses,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk  or  cream, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  of  ginger,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
one  of  water. 

Put  the  molasses,  milk,  salt,  and  ginger  in  a  bowl. 
Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  cold  water,  and  add  it,  with  the 
butter,  melted,  to  the  mixture  in  the  bowl.  Now  add 
the  flour,  and  beat  quickly.  Pour  the  mixture  into  three 
deep  tin  plates  that  have  been  well  buttered,  and  bake 


768          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

in  a  quick  oven  for  from  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  while  fresh ;  it  will  be  especially  nice  then. 

*  Soft  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

A  cupful  of  molasses,  a  cupful  of  sour  cream,  two  cup- 
fuls  of  flour,  an  egg,  a  large  teaspoonf ul  of  ginger,  two 
level  teaspoonf  uls  of  soda,  and  half  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt 
are  blended  to  produce  soft  gingerbread. 

Put  the  molasses,  cream,  salt,  and  ginger  into  a  bowl. 
Beat  the  egg  well.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  the  liquid  into  the  mix- 
ture in  the  bowl.  Add  the  beaten  egg,  arid  then  the 
flour,  and  after  beating  the  batter  vigorously  for  one 
minute,  pour  it  into  two  buttered  shallow  pans,  and  bake 
for  twenty  minutes  in  a  rather  hot  oven. 

*Bath  Soft  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

For  three  sheets  of  this  delicious  gingerbread  use  two 
cupfuls  of  molasses,  three  of  flour  (measured  before 
sifting),  one  of  buttermilk  or  sour  milk,  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  butter,  one  egg,  one  table-spoonful  of  soda,  one 
teaspoonf  ul  of  ginger,  or  three  if  a  strong  flavor  be 
Desired. 

Put  the  butter  and  molasses  in  a  tin  pan,  and  place 
^ne  pah  on  the  fire.  When  the  molasses  boils  up,  add 
the  ginger  and  soda.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
milk  and  beaten  egg;  then  sift  the  flour  into  the  pan. 
Beat  well,  and  pour  into  three  well-buttered  pans.  Bake 
in  a  rather  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

*  Buffalo  Soft  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

Use  two  cupfuls  of  molasses,  one  of  sugar,  one  of  sour 
milk,  four  of  flour,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
water. 


CAKE.  769 


Beat  the  sugar  and  molasses  together.  Add  the  gin- 
ger, salt,  cinnamon,  and  sour  milk.  Dissolve  the  soda  in 
the  water,  and  add  it  to  the  mixture.  Now  add  the 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  lastly  the  flour.  Bake  in  shallow 
pans,  in  a  moderately  quick  oven,  for  twenty  minutes. 
This  quantity  will  fill  four  small  cake-pans. 

*  Ginger  Snaps. 

Beat  a  cupful  of  butter  in  a  warm  bowl  until  it  be- 
comes soft  and  creamy;  then  gradually  beat  into  it  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  a  cupful  of  molasses,  and  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  ginger.  Dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  half  a 
gill  of  cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  mixture  already 
prepared.  Gradually  add  three  pints  of  flour,  beating 
well  all  the  while;  then  roll  the  batter  very  thin,  cut 
out  the  cakes,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

*  Cream  Cookies. 

If  one  be  careful  to  use  no  more  flour  than  the  rule 
states,  and  to  have  a  quick  oven  for  the  baking,  these 
cookies  will  be  very  delicate.  They  are  made  of  a  cupful 
of  sour  cream,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  six  of  sifted  flour, 
an  egg,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  nutmeg,  or  one  table-spoonful  of 
caraway  seeds. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  table-spoonful  of  cold  water. 
Beat  the  egg  till  very  light.  Add  the  dissolved  soda 
to  the  sour  cream  ;  then  stir  the  sugar,  salt,  and  egg  into 
the  cream.  Eeservs  a  small  part  of  the  flour,  and  add 
the  rest  of  the  liquid  mixture ;  finally  add  the  nutmeg, 
grated,  or  the  caraway  seeds. 

Sprinkle  a  board  with  about  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  after  rolling  a  small  piece  of  the  dough  down 
to  the  thickness  of  one-third  of  an  inch,  cut  it  into  cakes 
with  a  round,  plain,  or  fluted  cutter.  Continue  rolling 
and  cutting  the  dough  until  all  has  been  used.  Place 


770          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

the  cookies  on  tin  sheets  or  in  pans  that  have  been 
buttered  lightly  with  washed  butter,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  six  or  seven  minutes.  When  the  cakes  get 
brown  they  will  be  cooked  sufficiently.  Cool  on  a  sieve, 
and  put  away  in  a  tin  box. 

With  the  quantities  of  ingredients  mentioned  between 
forty  and  fifty  cookies  may  be  made,  the  number  depend- 
ing, of  course,  upon  the  size  of  the  cutter  and  the 
thickness  of  the  dough. 

Scotch  Cakes. 

These  are  peculiar  cakes,  very  rich  and  nutty  in 
flavor.  One  is  apt  to  like  them  very  much  or  not  at  all. 
By  following  this  receipt  only  a  small  quantity  will  be 
made ;  so,  in  experimenting,  one  need  not  waste  a  large 
amount  of  materials.  The  measurements  should  be 
exact,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  in  the  mixing  and 
baking. 

Only  three  ingredients  are  required,  —  a  cupful  of 
butter,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  pint  and  three- 
fourths  of  flour.  Mix  the  flour  and  sugar.  Beat  the 
butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  it  into  the  dry 
mixture.  The  new  mixture  will  be  stiff  and  brittle,  and 
must  be  worked  thoroughly  with  the  hands  until  it  be- 
comes pliable.  Sprinkle  a  board  lightly  with  flour,  and, 
laying  half  of  the  mixture  upon  it,  roll  it  down  to  the 
thickness  of  about  half  an  inch.  Cut  into  four  parts, 
and  pinch  the  edges  with  the  fingers,  to  make  little 
scallops.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour. 

These  cakes  are  nice  to  serve  with  preserves,  marma- 
lades, and  fruit  jellies. 

*  Muster  Gingerbread. 

The  materials  required  are :  two  cupfuls  of  molasses, 
a  generous  half-cupful  of  butter  or  lard,  seven  cupfuls  of 


CAKE.  771 


sifted  flour,  two  table- spoonfuls  of  milk,  one  of  water, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  of  ginger,  two  generous 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  and  one-fifth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
alum.  One  egg  and  half  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream  also 
will  be  needed  for  glazing  the  cakes.  If  alum  be  objec- 
tionable, substitute  cream-of-tartar. 

Melt  the  butter  or  lard,  and  mix  it  in  a  large  bowl 
with  the  molasses,  salt,  and  ginger.  Pour  the  table- 
spoonful  of  boiling  water  on  the  alum.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  the  milk,  and  add  the  milk  and  the  boiling  water 
to  the  mixture  in  the  bowl.  Stir  well,  and  then  beat 
in  the  flour.  Let  the  dough  stand  for  two  or  three  hours, 
or  even  over  night ;  then  beat  it  again,  and  make  it  into 
small  balls.  Koll  these  into  squares  about  one-third  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  place  in  baking-pans. 

Beat  the  egg  well,  and  then  beat  with  it  the  cream  or 
milk.  Brush  the  mixture  over  the  squares.  Bake  the 
cakes  in  a  quick  oven  from  eight  to  ten  minutes. 

*  Sugar  Card  Gingerbread. 

Use  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  of  sour  milk,  two  of 
brown  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  of 
ginger,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  six  scant  cupf uls  of  flour, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  in  the 
sugar,  and  then  the  salt  and  ginger.  Next  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  table-spoonful  of 
cold  water,  and  stir  the  water  into  the  sour  milk.  Con- 
tinue the  stirring  for  a  moment ;  then  add  the  liquid  to 
the  mixture  in  the  bowl.  Gradually  beat  in  the  flour. 
Sprinkle  the  board  with  a  little  extra  flour,  and,  putting 
about  one-fourth  of  the  dough  upon  it,  roll  down  to  the 
thickness  of  about  half  an  inch.  Cut  in  squares,  place 
in  buttered  pans,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  eight 
minutes. 


772          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Cream   Cakes. 

Use  one  cupful  of  boiling  water,  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
one  cupful  and  three-fourths  of  flour,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  five  eggs.  Put  the  water,  sugar,  and  butter 
on  the  stove  in  a  flat  saucepan,  and  when  they  boil  up, 
stir  in  all  the  flour  at  once.  Beat  well  for  four  or  five 
minutes ;  then,  when  the  mixture  becomes  cooled,  break 
the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  — but  do  not  beat  them,  —  and  turn 
out  the  broken  eggs  upon  the  paste,  about  half  at  a  time. 
Beat  the  new  mixture  for  half  an  hour.  When  it  be- 
comes light,  drop  it  on  a  tin  sheet,  allowing  about  a 
table-spoonful  for  each  cake,  and  having  the  cakes  about 
two  inches  apart.  Bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  rather 
quick  oven ;  then  cut  open  the  sides  of  the  cakes  with  a 
small  sharp-pointed  knife,  and  fill  the  cakes  with  cream 
made  as  follows :  — 

Put  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  milk  on  the  stove  in  a 
double-boiler.  Beat  together  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  two  eggs,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  the  mixture  into 
the  boiling  milk.  Cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring 
often.  When  cold,  flavor  with  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 

Doughnuts  and  Crullers. 

There  seems  to  be  a  great  diversity  of  opinion  in 
regard  to  what  are  crullers  and  what  are  doughnuts.  In 
some  sections  of  the  country  only  those  cakes  which  are 
raised  with  yeast  are  called  doughnuts,  those  made  with 
soda  and  cream-of-tartar  or  baking-powder  being  called 
crullers. 

In  other  parts  of  the  country  fried  cakes  that  are 
made  with  sugar,  butter,  flour,  eggs,  and  some  kind  of 
flavoring  are  called  crullers,  and  all  kinds  of  fried  cakes 
into  the  making  of  which  enter  a  liquid  and  some  sub- 
stance for  lightening  the  dough,  like  baking-powder  or 


CAKE.  773 


yeast,  are  called  doughnuts.     It  seems  as  if  this  distinc- 
tion should  be  observed. 

For  frying  doughnuts  and  crullers  the  fat  should  be 
about  four  inches  deep,  when  it  is  melted  in  the  kettle. 
Heat  the  lard  slowly.  When  it  is  so  hot  that  it  hisses 
if  a  small  piece  of  dough  be  dropped  into  it,  it  is 
ready  for  frying.  If  so  hot  that  the  dough  turns  dark 
brown  in  a  minute,  remove  to  a  cooler  place  before 
putting  in  the  doughnuts.  Drop  in  but  a  few  at  a  time. 
They  will  fall  to  the  bottom  at  first,  but  should  rise  again 
almost  immediately.  When  done,  they  should  be  drained 
on  a  sieve  or  in  a  colander,  then  removed  to  a  dish  to 
make  room  for  the  next  batch.  They  must  be  handled 
lightly,  and  as  little  flour  as  possible  should  be  used  in 
cutting  them  out. 

Crullers. 

Use  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  about 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  one  nutmeg,  and  the 
grated  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Gradually  beat  the  sugar 
into  it ;  then  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  and  the  nutmeg 
and  lemon.  Next  add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Beat  in  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time.  Sprinkle  the  mould- 
ing-board with  flour.  Put  about  half  the  dough  on  it 
and  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  With  a 
jagging-iron  cut  this  into  long  narrow  strips,  and  twist 
them  into  various  shapes.  Fry  for  about  six  minutes. 

Dropped  Doughnuts. 

For  a  large  plate  of  these  doughnuts  use  half  a  cupful 
of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  generous  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  and 
a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  beat  the  sugar  into  it. 
Add  the  grated  nutmeg,  the  salt,  and  the  eggs,  —  yolks 


774          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  whites,  beaten  separately.  Now  add  the  milk,  and 
finally  the  flour,  with  which  the  baking-powder  should 
be  mixed.  Beat  vigorously  for  a  minute.  Drop  this 
batter  by  teaspoonfuls  into  fat,  and  cook  for  about  five 
minutes.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  sprinkle  with 
sugar. 

Rich  Doughnuts. 

These  are  made  of  a  quart  of  flour,  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  four  eggs,  one  gill  of 
milk,  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  half  a  nutmeg, 
grated,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder, 

Mix  the  baking-powder,  salt,  and  nutmeg  with  the 
flour,  and  rub  the  mixture  through  a  sieve ;  then  rub  the 
butter  into  the?flour.  Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  and  beat 
in  the  sugar  and  grated  lemon  rind.  Add  the  milk,  and 
then  pour  the  liquid  upon  the  dry  ingredients.  Sprinkle 
the  moulding-board  with  flour.  Put  a  small  piece  of 
dough  upon  it,  and  after  rolling  down  to  the  thickness 
of  about  an  inch,  cut  with  a  round  cutter  that  removes  a 
piece  from  the  centre.  Fry  the  doughnuts  in  lard  for 
about  six  minutes.  On  taking  from  the  fat,  drain  them 
well ;  afterward  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

*  Plain  Doughnuts. 

The  materials  are :  one  cupful  and  a  fourth  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  and  a  fourth  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  cream-of-tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  nutmeg,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a 
soft  dough,  —  about  three  cupfuls  and  a  half. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  beat  the  sugar  into  them. 
Add  the  salt  and  the  nutmeg,  grated.  Next  add  the 
milk,  and  finally  the  flour,  in  which  the  soda  and  cream- 
of-tartar  should  be  mixed.  Roll,  cut,  and  fry  the  dough 
the  same  as  in  making  rich  doughnuts. 


CAKE.  775 


*  Raised  Doughnuts. 

The  materials  are  :  one  cupful  of  boiled  milk,  one  of 
sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  lard  mixed,  one  egg, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  yeast  cake 
or  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast,  one-fourth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  table-spoonful  of 
water,  one  grated  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon, 
three  gills  of  warm  water,  and  about  two  quarts  of  flour. 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  make  a  sponge 
with  the  water,  yeast,  and  five  gills  of  flour.  Beat  very 
thoroughly,  and  after  covering,  set  in  a  warm  place  to 
rise.  In  the  evening,  about  half-past  nine,  add  all  the 
other  ingredients,  —  the  egg  being  well  beaten.  Knead 
the  dough  thoroughly,  and  after  returning  it  to  the 
bowl,  cover  it,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  Go  rise. 

In  the  morning  knead  the  dough  again,  and  let  it  rise 
once  more.  When  it  is  spongy  again,  sprinkle  a  board 
with  flour,  and  turn  the  dough  on  it.  Do  not  knead  it 
this  time.  Eoll  it  down  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch. 
With  a  jagging-iron  or  a  sharp  knife,  cut  the  dough  into 
any  shape  you  like.  One  of  the  best  is  what  is  called 
the  twist ;  cut  long  narrow  strips  of  the  dough,  double 
these,  and  twist  loosely.  Let  the  doughnuts  rise  on  the 
board  for  twenty  minutes.  They  should  be  covered  all 
the  while  with  a  light  cloth.  Fry  in  lard  for  about  six 
minutes. 

HOW    TO    ICE   AND    DECORATE    CAKE. 

When  cake  is  to  be  iced  it  is  always  best  to  spread  a 
thin  coating  of  icing  over  it  while  the  cake  is  still  warm. 
Unless  the  first  coat  be  put  on  thin  and  rough,  the  second 
one  will  not  stick.  Now  spread  the  cake  thickly  with 
icing.  If  the  royal  icing  be  used,  draw  a  clean  knife 
through  it  in  the  manner  in  which  the  cake  is  to  be  cut, 
whether  it  be  squares  or  slices.  With  the  softer  icings 
this  is  not  possible,  as  they  would  run  together  again. 


776          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Let  the  icing  harden  ;  it  will  take  only  about  an  hour  for 
the  surface  to  become  hard,  but  several  hours  for  it  to  get 
dried  all  through.  Never  put  it  in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 

If  the  cake  is  to  be  decorated,  the  work  can  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  surface  of  the  icing  is  dried.  There  will  be 
required  one  or  two  small  bags,  made  of  rubber  sheeting, 
also  several  confectioners'  small  tubes.  In  making  a 
bag  a  square  of  rubber  sheeting,  about  a  foot  square,  is 
folded  from  two  opposite  corners,  which  gives  it  a  trian- 
gular shape.  Stitch  this  ;  then  cut  off  a  small  piece  at 
the  bottom,  and  press  a  tube  into  the  opening  (see  illus- 
tration for  sponge  fingers,  p.  746).  Fill  the  bag  with  royal 
icing,  and  press  this  out  in  any  design  you  please.  Tubes 
come  in  tin  and  brass ;  but.  as  the  tin  do  not  keep 
their  shape,  it%is  better  to  buy  those  made  of  brass. 
Both  tubes  and  bags  can  be  obtained  at  a  confectioners' 
supply  store. 

One  must  not  expect  to  rival  a  regular  confectioner  in 
the  work  of  icing  and  decorating.  It  takes  a  good  deal 
of  practice  to  do  the  work  well.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
draw  some  designs  on  sheets  of  paper,  place  a  sheet  of 
clear  glass  over  this,  and  decorate  with  icing ;  scraping 
off  and  using  the  icing  again  and  again  until  you  can 
execute  the  work  satisfactorily. 

When  a  name  or  date  is  to  be  placed  on  the  cake,  color 
a  little  of  the  icing  with  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  or  a 
little  dissolved  chocolate.  Put  a  very  small  plain  tube 
in  a  bag,  and  then  pour  in  the  colored  icing.  Trace  the 
name  or  figures  on  the  centre  of  the  cake,  and  follow  the 
pencil  lines  with  the  tube.  Or  a  pretty  design  can  be 
made  by  using  the  white  icing  with  a  rather  large  tube 
that  is  serrated  on  one  side  and  slightly  flattened.  This 
will  give  broad,  flat  letters.  Ornament  these  letters 
with  bright  candied  fruits,  cut  in  small  pieces. 

After  one  learns  how  to  use  the  bag  and  tube  the 
variety  of  decorations  that  may  be  used  on  cakes  is 
limited  only  by  one's  ability  in  designing. 


CAKE.  777 


Royal  Icing. 

This  icing  must  be  made  carefully,  else  it  will  not  be 
smooth  and  glossy,  and  keep  its  shape  when  pressed  into 
various  forms.  The  exact  amount  of  sugar  cannot  be 
given  for  an  icing  which  is  made  with  the  whites  of  eggs 
and  sugar,  as  the  size  of  the  eggs  varies.  About  a  tea- 
cupful  of  confectioners'  sugar  to  the  white  of  an  egg  is 
the  proper  amount  as  well  as  can  be  estimated. 

Put  the  whites  in  a  bowl  with  one  table-spoonful  of 
sugar.  Beat  with  a  spoon  for  about  five  minutes  ;  then 
add  another  spoonful  of  the  sugar,  and  beat  again.  Add 
all  the  sugar  by  spoonfuls,  and  beat  well  between  each 
addition.  It  takes  nearly  an  hour  to  make  this  icing, 
beating  all  the  time.  When  it  is  done  it  will  be  light, 
and  hang  from  the  spoon  without  falling.  If  the  sugar 
should  be  added  too  rapidly,  the  icing  would  not  be  smooth 
and  glossy.  Flavor  with  lemon  juice.  Keep  the  dish 
covered  with  a  wet  towel  until  you  are  ready  to  use  it 

*  Cream  Icing. 

Put  into  a  bowl  the  white  of  one  egg,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  and  half  a  cupful  of  confectioners' 
sugar.  Beat  well.  Continue  beating  and  adding  sugar 
until  the  mixture  is  smooth,  and  so  thick  that  it  can  be 
spread  easily,  and  yet  will  not  run  off  the  cake. 

This  can  be  used  for  all  simple  icing.  It  may  be 
flavored  with  lemon  or  vanilla.  If  the  water  be  omitted 
a  firmer  icing  will  be  the  result. 

This  icing  can  be  made  in  five  minutes.  It  is  only 
suitable  for  spreading  on  plain  cakes,  as  it  will  not  hold 
its  shape. 

*  Chocolate  Icing. 

Scrape  one  ounce  of  chocolate,  and  put  it  into  a  small 
frying-pan  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one 
of  water.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth  and  glossy. 
Stir  this  into  a  cream  icing. 


778          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Cocoanut  Icing. 

Beat  the  white  of  one  egg  rather  light,  and  beat  into 
it  one  teacupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  one  cupful  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut.  Spread  on  the  cake,  and  sprinkle  grated  cocoanut 
over  it. 

*  Coffee  Icing. 

Put  half  a  gill  of  very  strong  coffee  into  a  saucepan. 
Add  to  it  one  cupful  of  confectioners'  sugar.  Stir  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  warm  ;  then  spread  on  the  cake. 

*  Orange  Icing. 

Grate  the  yellow  rind  of  an  orange  into  a  bowl.  Add 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  juice,  and  let  the  preparation  stand 
for  an  hour  or  more.  At  the  end  of  this  time  add  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  tartaric  acid.  Stir  well,  and  gradually 
beat  in  powdered  or  confectioners'  sugar  until  the  icing 
is  thick  enough  to  spread  on  the  cake.  It  will  take 
about  a  generous  cupful  of  Sugar. 

Wine  Icing. 

Boil  together  for  fifteen  minutes  one  cupful  of  sugar 
and  half  a  cupful  of  water.  Add  to  this  half  a  gill 
of  wine,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  enough 
confectioners'  sugar  to  thicken  the  mixture  to  a  smooth 
thin  paste.  Spread  the  icing  on  the  cake  while  it  is  still 
hot. 

Boiled  Icing. 

Put  in  a  small  saucepan  one  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoon ful  of  cream-of-tartar.  Boil  for  six 
minutes.  Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
gradually  beat  into  it  the  boiled  sugar,  pouring  it  in  a 
thin  stream.  Beat  for  five  minutes  after  the  last  of  the 
sugar  has  been  added.  Flavor  to  suit  your  taste. 

Do  not  stir  the  sugar  while  it  is  being  boiled. 


CAKE.  779 


Fondant  Icings. 

Put  into  a  small  granite-ware  saucepan  one  cupful  of 
sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Place  on  the 
fire,  and  boil  for  twelve  minutes.  Take  a  drop  of  the 
syrup  on  the  point  of  a  skewer.  Let  it  cool  slightly, 
and  then  rub  it  between  the  thumb  and  finger.  If  on 
drawing  the  finger  and  thumb  apart,  sticky  threads  are 
formed,  the  sugar  is  done.  Pour  it,  in  that  case,  on  a 
large  platter  and  let  it  cool.  When  so  cool  that  it  can 
be  handled,  work  it  with  the  hands  until  a  smooth  creamy 
mass  is  formed.  This  is  the  fondant. 

When  the  cake  is  to  be  iced,  put  the  fondant  in  a 
saucepan,  and  place  this  pan  in  another  containing  boil- 
ing water.  Keep  on  the  fire  until  the  fondant  is  melted. 
Flavor  to  suit  the  taste,  and  ice  the  cake. 

This  is  a  particularly  nice  icing  for  small  cakes.  Fasten 
them  on  a  skewer,  and  dip  them  in  the  icing.  The  icing 
will  be  smooth  and  glossy,  and  also  very  soft. 

Fruit  Fondant  Icings. 

Put  into  a  granite-ware  saucepan  one  cupful  of  sugar 
and  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Boil  rapidly  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Take  up  a  drop  of  the  syrup  on  the 
point  of  a  skewer,  and  put  it  in  cold  water.  Kub  it 
between  the  fingers,  and  if  it  forms  a  firm  ball  the  syrup 
is  cooked  enough.  If  the  ball  cannot  be  formed,  cook  the 
syrup  until  it  will  ball.  Now  add  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  any  kind  of  fruit  juice,  and  boil  two  minutes  longer. 
Try  the  syrup,  and  if  it  forms  into  sticky  threads  when 
the  fingers  are  drawn  apart,  it  is  cooked  enough.  Pour 
it  on  a  platter,  and  when  cool,  treat  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  plain  fondant  icing. 

When  strawberry,  raspberry,  or  any  of  the  bright  fruit 
juices  are  used,  a  few  drops  of  liquid  cochineal  should 
be  added  if  the  icing  be  desired  bright. 


780          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  AND  MUFFINS. 


YEAST. 

IN  cities  and  large  towns  one  can  obtain  compressed 
yeast,  which  is  made  fresh  every  day  and  gives  satis- 
factory results.  It  is  less  expensive  to  buy  these  cakes 
than  to  make  liquid  yeast,  and  one  avoids  the  trouble  of 
caring  for  her  own  production,  —  it  being  necessary,  of 
course,  to  make  at  one  time  sufficient  yeast  for  several 
weeks'  use.  In  the  country  it  is  impossible  to  get  com- 
pressed yeast,  and  either  home-made  yeast  or  dry  yeast 
cakes  are  used.  Indeed,  many  people  prefer  the  old- 
fashioned  hop  or  potato  yeast  to  all  others.  When  prop- 
erly made,  it  certainly  is  as  good  as  any  kind. 

One  two-cent  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water  is  equal  to  a  cupful  of 
home-made  yeast. 

*Hop  Yeast. 

The  materials  are  :  one  pint  of  hot  mashed  potatoes, 
half  a  pint  each  of  salt,  sugar,  and  flour,  half  a  pint  of 
hops,  measured  lightly,  four  quarts  and  a  half  of  boiling 
water,  half  a  pint  of  yeast,  or  one  cake  of  compressed 
yeast. 

Put  the  hops  in  a  stew-pan  with  one  pint  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Mix  the  potatoes, 
flour,  sugar,  and  salt,  and  strain  the  hop  water  on  them. 
Beat  this  mixture  well,  and  add  the  four  quarts  of  boiling 
water.  Let  this  stand  until  blood-warm ;  then  add  the 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  781 

yeast,  stirring  well.  Cover  the  bowl,  and  let  it  stand  for 
twenty-four  hours.  Skim  and  stir  the  yeast  several 
times.  Put  the  yeast  into  one  or  two  jugs,  and  cork 
tightly.  Keep  in  a  cool  place. 

This  yeast  will  keep  for  two  months.  In  making 
bread  with  it  use  very  little  salt. 

*  Hop-and-Potato  Yeast. 

With  the  following-named  materials  three  quarts  of 
yeast  may  be  made.  In  a  small  family  one-third  of  this 
quantity  will  be  enough  to  make  at  one  time,  as  it  is 
best  not  to  use  the  yeast  when  it  is  very  old. 

Use  six  large  potatoes,  three  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
one  cupful  of  hops,  measured  lightly,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  and  one  cupful  of  yeast.  Pare  the 
potatoes,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  the  hops, 
tied  loosely  in  a  bag  of  thin  muslin,  and  the  boiling 
water.  Cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then  remove  the  pota- 
toes with  a  skimmer,  and  mash  them  in  a  large  bowl  till 
they  are  fine  and  light.  Pour  upon  them  the  water  in 
which  they  were  boiled,  and  add  the  sugar  and  salt. 
Rub  this  mixture  through  a  sieve,  and  let  it  stand  until 
it  is  about  blood-warm  (98°)  ;  then  stir  in  the  yeast,  and 
cover  the  dish  closely.  Set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  in 
a  temperature  of  75°  it  will  rise  in  about  six  hours. 
When  it  has  risen  sufficiently,  the  surface  will  be  covered 
with  bubbles.  It  is,  unlike  many  kinds  of  yeast,  too 
thin  a  mixture  to  foam.  Put  into  air-tight  glass  jars,  and 
set  in  a  cool  place.  It  will  keep  for  three  weeks. 

The  potatoes  and  hops  used  in  making  this  yeast  should 
be  boiled  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  or  one  of  granite-- 
ware, because  a  tin  or  iron  kettle  would  make  the  yeast 
turn  dark. 

*  Water  Bread. 

This  should  be  made  in  the  morning,  and  these  ma- 
terials are  enough  for  four  small  loaves :  one  quart  of 


782          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

water,  three  quarts  and  three-fourths  of  flour,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  half  a 
cupful  of  yeast. 

Mix  the  yeast  with  one  pint  of  water,  at  blood  heat 
and  stir  into  this  mixture  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour- 
Beat  thoroughly ;  and  after  covering,  set  in  a  warm  place 
where  it  will  rise.  At  the  end  of  two  hours  it  should  be 
a  sponge.  When  it  is  well  risen,  add  the  remainder  of 
the  water  as  well  as  the  salt  and  sugar.  Beat  well,  and 
then  beat  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  —  reserving, 
however,  a  cupful  for  the  purpose  of  kneading. 

Sprinkle  a  moulding-board  with  a  part  of  this  cupful, 
and,  turning  out  the  dough  upon  the  board,  knead  it  from 
twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Eeturn  it  to  the  bowl, 
and  let  it  rise  until  a  light  sponge  is  formed,  —  say  for 
about  two  hours ;  then  shape  it  into  loaves,  put  it  into 
pans,  and  let  it  rise  until  the  loaves  are  double  their 
original  size.  About  an  hour  will  be  required  for  this 
rising.  Set  the  pans  into  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for 
an  hour. 

If  one  prefer,  all  the  ingredients  may  be  put  together 
at  once.  In  that  case  the  dough  should  be  kneaded  for 
half  an  hour,  and  then  allowed  to  rise  over  night.  In 
the  morning  shape  into  loaves,  and  let  it  rise  again ; 
finally  baking  as  already  directed. 

It  makes  the  bread  a  little  richer  to  work  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  dough  ;  or  a  pint  of  milk  and 
a  pint  of  water  may  be  used  instead  of  a  full  quart  of 
water.  If  compressed  yeast  be  used,  half  of  a  two-cent 
cake,  dissolved  in  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  water,  will  be 
equal  to  half  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast. 

*  Potato  Bread. 

For  four  large  or  six  medium- sized  loaves  use  one 
quart  of  boiling  water,  three  large  potatoes,  one-third  of 
a  cupful  of  yeast  or  one-third  of  a  cake  of  compressed 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  AND  MUFFINS.  783 

yeast,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  about  three  quarts 
and  a  pint  of  flour. 

Cover  the  potatoes  with  boiling  water.  Cook  them  for 
half  an  hour;  then  drain  and  mash  them.  Pour  the 
boiling  water  on  them.  Let  this  stand  until  it  is  blood- 
warm  ;  then  add  the  yeast  and  three  quarts  of  the  flour, 
beating  it  in  with  a  spoon.  Cover  the  bowl  with  a  cloth, 
and  then  with  a  board  or  tin  cover,  and  let  it  rise  over 
night,  —  nine  or  ten  hours. 

In  the  morning  beat  in  the  salt  and  half  of  the  re- 
maining flour.  Use  the  remainder  of  the  flour  for  knead- 
ing the  bread  on  the  board.  Knead  for  twenty  minutes 
or  half  an  hour.  Put  the  dough  back  into  the  bowl,  and 
cover  it ;  let  it  rise  to  double  its  size  ;  shape  into  loaves, 
and  let  them  rise  to  double  their  original  size.  Bake  for 
one  hour  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

The  addition  of  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  two  or 
three  of  lard  or  butter  improves  the  bread  for  some  tastes. 
If  these  be  used,  add  them  with  the  salt,  when  the  bread 
is  kneaded. 


*  Entire-Wheat  Bread. 

Many  people  confound  entire-wheat  flour  with  graham, 
but  it  is  very  different.  Graham  is  a  coarse-ground 
wheat  meal;  entire-wheat  flour  is  the  whole  wheat  — 
with  the  coarse  husk  discarded,  of  course  —  ground  to  a 
fine  flour.  It  gives  a  brown  loaf  or  roll,  but  a  delicious 
one,  —  smooth  and  fine. 

For  two  loaves  of  bread  and  a  pan  of  rolls  use  two 
generous  quarts  of  the  unsifted  flour,  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  warm  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
cake  of  compressed  yeast  or  half  a  cupful  of  home-made 
yeast. 

After  sifting  the  flour  into  a  bread-bowl,  put  aside  a 
cupful  for  use  in  kneading  the  bread  later,  and  put  the 


784          MISS  PABLO A'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

sugar  and  salt  with  the  remainder.  If  the  yeast  be 
compressed,  dissolve  it  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  water. 
Pour  the  remaining  water  and  the  yeast  into  the  bowl,  and 
finally  add  the  butter,  somewhat  softened  by  standing  in 
a  warm  place  for  a  while.  Beat  the  dough  vigorously 
with  a  strong  spoon,  and  when  it  gets  smooth  and  light, 
sprinkle  a  moulding-board  with  a  part  of  the  flour  that 
was  reserved,  and  turn  the  dough  out  upon  the  board. 
Knead  until  smooth  and  elastic,  —  say  from  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour ;  then  return  to  the  bowl,  and 
after  covering  first  with  a  clean  towel,  and  then  with  a 
tin  or  wooden  cover,  let  it  rise  for  about  eight  hours  in 
a  temperature  of  about  70°.  If  the  temperature  be 
lower  than  70°,  more  time  will  be  required  for  the 
rising ;  and  of  course,  if  it  be  higher,  less  time  will  be 
needed. 

If  the  dough  be  mixed  in  the  morning,  and  kept 
for  four  or  five  hours  in  a  temperature  of  80°  or  90°, 
it  will  be  in  condition  for  baking  in  the  afternoon. 
When  it  has  risen,  butter  lightly  two  bread-pans  and 
one  roll-pan.  Make  enough  rolls  to  fill  the  pan,  shap- 
ing them  with  the  hands ;  then  put  the  remainder  of 
the  dough  on  a  board,  and  divide  it  into  two  loaves. 
Let  the  rolls  and  loaves  rise  till  they  are  double  their 
original  size ;  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  —  the  rolls 
for  half  an  hour,  and  the  bread  for  an  hour. 

*Rye  Bread. 

Make  rye  bread  in  the  same  manner  as  entire-wheat 
bread,  substituting  rye  flour  for  the  wheat  flour. 

*  Graham  Bread. 

For  two  loaves  use  one  quart  of  flour,  one  quart  of 
graham,  half  a  cupful  of  molasses,  half  of  a  two-cent  yeast 
cake  or  half  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast,  a  level  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  about  seven-eighths  of  a  quart  of  warm  water. 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  785 

Sift  the  flour  aiid  graham  into  a  bowl.  Turn  the  bran 
into  the  bowl  also.  Then  add  the  salt,  water,  yeast,  and 
molasses.  Beat  well  with  the  hand  for  twenty  minutes 
or  half  an  hour ;  cover  the  bowl,  and  let  the  dough  rise 
over  night.  In  the  morning  shape  it  into  two  loaves, 
and  let  it  rise  in  the  pans  to  nearly  double  its  size.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 

Or,  half  the  dough  may  be  put  into  a  bread-pan,  and 
the  other  half  be  made  into  rolls.  The  rolls  should  be 
put  into  a  French  roll-pan.  When  they  have  risen  to 
fully  double  their  size,  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

This  bread  is  mixed  so  soft  that  the  dough  cannot  be 
moulded  into  shape.  It  takes  the  form  of  the  pans  in 
which  it  is  baked. 

The  success  of  graham  bread  depends  largely  upon 
thorough  beating  and  baking. 

*  Buttermilk  Bread. 

When  buttermilk  can  be  obtained  conveniently,  a  deli- 
cious kind  of  bread  may  be  made.  For  three  good-sized 
loaves  use  one  quart  of  sour  buttermilk,  one  generous 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  level  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
and  two  quarts  and  three-quarters  of  flour. 

Heat  the  buttermilk  to  the  boiling-point,  stirring  it 
frequently  to  prevent  curdling.  Put  the  sugar  in  a  large 
bowl,  and  pour  the  hot  milk  on  it.  Now  gradually  sift 
into  this  mixture  one  quart  of  flour,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Beat  well ;  then  cover,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  room 
over  night,  —  say  from  9.30  P.  M.  to  6.30  A.  M. 

In  the  morning  dissolve  the  soda  in  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  water,  and  add  it  to  the  batter,  together  with  the 
salt  and  the  butter,  melted.  Beat  thoroughly ;  then  grad- 
ually beat  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  reserving,  how- 
ever, half  a  cupful  for  kneading. 


786          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  and,  turning  the  dough 
upon  it,  knead  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Divide 
into  three  parts,  and  shape  into  loaves.  Place  in  but- 
tered pans,  and  put  into  the  oven  im mediately.  Bake 
for  one  hour. 

*  Pulled  Bread. 

In  England  this  kind  of  bread  is  served  with  the 
cheese  course  of  a  dinner.  It  is  also  delicious  with  cof- 
fee or  chocolate  at  luncheon.  To  make  it,  divide  one  of 
the  loaves  of  water  bread  into  eight  equal  parts.  Roll 
these  pieces  into  strands  the  length  of  the  bread-pan, 
and,  placing  the  strands  close  together,  pinch  them  into 
one  piece  of  dough  at  one  end.  Now  braid  the  strands, 
as  if  they  were  pieces  of  ribbon  or  tape.  Press  the 
braided  mass  until  it  is  about  the  size  of  the  pan,  and 
then  put  it  into  the  pan.  Let  it  rise,  and  then  bake  it 
the  same  as  the  other  loaves.  Let  it  stand  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  after  it  comes  from  the  oven ;  then  tear  it  apart 
in  long  thin  pieces.  Spread  these  in  a  large  dripping- 
pan  or  upon  a  tin  sheet,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven 
until  brown  and  crisp.  It  will  take  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour.  Serve  hot. 

When  this  bread  is  desired  for  luncheon  or  dinner,  the 
work  should  be  so  timed  that  the  bread  will  be  ready 
for  putting  into  the  oven  about  an  hour  and  three-quar- 
ters before  the  time  for  serving.  The  bread  may,  of 
course,  be  prepared  at  any  time,  and  heated  again  when 
desired  for  the  table ;  but  it  will  not  be  so  good  as  when 
crisp  for  the  first  time. 

The  dough  for  White  Mountain  rolls  or  that  for  po- 
tato bread  makes  delicious  pulled  bread. 

*  Federal  Loaf. 

This  is  a  kind  of  bread  of  which  many  people  are  fond 
for  luncheon  or  supper.  The  materials  used  are  :  a  quart 
of  flour,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  half 


BREAD,   ROLLS,  AND   MUFFINS.  787 

a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  yeast,  and  a  scant  cupful  and  a  half  of  boiled 
milk ;  or  water  may  be  substituted  for  milk,  though  in 
that  case  the  quantity  of  butter  must  be  doubled. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  light.  Add  the  milk, 
sugar,  and  yeast,  and  pour  the  liquid  upon  the  sifted 
flour.  Mix  well  with  a  spoon ;  then  turn  out  upon  the 
moulding-board,  and  knead  for  twenty  minutes.  Keturn 
to  the  mixing-bowl,  and  after  covering,  let  it  rise  in  a 
warm  place  for  four  hours.  It  should  be  a  perfect 
sponge  in  that  time. 

When  the  dough  has  risen,  butter  a  bread-pan,  —  the 
kind  used  for  loaves.  Make  the  dough  into  rolls  as 
long  as  the  pan  is  wide,  and  as  these  rolls  are  placed  in 
the  pan,  press  them  close  together.  Let  them  rise  in  a 
warm  place  for  an  hour.  Bake  for  one  hour  in  a  moder- 
ately hot  oven.  On  taking  from  the  oven,  wrap  in  a 
towel  for  ten  minutes  ;  and  on  removing  from  the  towel, 
tear  the  rolls  apart  from  the  top  nearly  to  the  bottom. 
Spread  soft  butter  between  the  parts,  and  press  them 
together  again.  Wrap  in  the  towel  until  serving-time, 
which  should  come  soon,  as  the  loaf  is  to  be  served 
warm.  It  should  be  placed  on  the  table  whole,  and  each 
person  should  break  off  a  roll  as  the  plate  is  passed. 

The  dough  for  a  federal  loaf  may  be  used  for  common 
rolls.  It  gives  a  delicate  roll,  whatever  the  shape. 

*  Parker  House  Rolls, 

For  a  small  pan  of  rolls  —  enough  for  four  persons  — 
use  a  quart  of  flour,  less  a  gill ;  a  generous  half-pint  of 
milk,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter  or  lard,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a 
cupful  of  yeast  or  a  quarter  of  a  yeast  cake. 

Boil  the  milk,  and  let  it  cool.  Sift  the  flour  into  a 
bowl,  and  rub  the  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  into  it.  Draw 
the  flour  to  the  sides  of  the  bowl ;  pour  the  cold  milk 


788          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

into  the  well  made  by  drawing  the  flour  away  from  the 
centre  ;  add  the  yeast ;  cover  the  pan,  and  let  it  stand  on 
the  kitchen  table  all  night. 

In  the  morning  mix  the  rolls  with  a  spoon,  and  then 
knead  the  dough  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour  ; 
return  it  to  the  bowl,  cover  it,  and  let  it  rise  in  a  warm 
place.  When  the  dough  has  risen  to  three  times  its 
original  size,  —  this  will  take  about  three  hours,  —  turn  it 
on  to  the  bread-board,  and  roll  it  down  to  the  thickness 
of  half  an  inch.  Lift  the  dough  frequently  to  let  it 
shrink.  When  it  is  rolled  to  the  proper  thickness,  lift 
it  and  let  it  shrink  all  it  will. 

Cut  the  dough  with  an  oval  cutter.  Place  a  round 
stick  —  the  handle  of  a  spoon  or  fork  will  do  —  on  the 
roll,  about  one-third  of  the  distance  from  one  end ;  press 
with  the  stick  until  the  dough  is  about  half  as  thick 
here  as  in  the  other  parts.  Fold  the  short  end  of  the 
dough  over,  and  the  roll  is  shaped. 

Half  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  may  be  spread  between 
the  folds  if  it  be  liked.  Place  the  rolls  in  a  buttered 
shallow  pan,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  them  rise  an 
hour  and  a  half  in  a  warm  place.  They  should  rise  to  a 
little  more  than  double  the  original  size.  Bake  in  a  hot 
oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

This  dough  may  be  shaped  like  a  French  roll  in  this 
way :  Sprinkle  the  bread -board  with  flour ;  roll  the  dough 
into  small  balls,  and  drop  them  on  the  board.  Flour  a 
very  small  rolling-pin  or  a  long  round  stick,  and  press  it 
in  the  centre  of  the  ball  of  dough.  Spread  a  towel  in  a 
pan ;  sprinkle  flour  over  it ;  lay  the  rolls  on  this,  the 
split  side  down.  The  rolls  must  not  touch  each  other. 
Cover  with  a  towel,  and  let  the  rolls  rise  in  a  rather  cool 
place  until  double  the  original  size.  Lift  them  gently 
from  the  towel,  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  pan  the 
split  side  up.  Bake  for  twelve  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

A  word  of  caution  :  In  making  Parker  House  rolls 
remember  that  the  flour  is  not  mixed  with  the  milk  and 


BREAD,  ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  789 

yeast  until  the  ingredients  have  stood  several  hours. 
Great  care  must  be  used  in  measuring  the  ingredients, 
as  nothing  should  be  added  afterward.  The  dough  will 
be  very  stiff. 

If  these  rolls  are  wanted  for  supper,  they  may  be 
begun  at  eight  o'clock,  kneaded  at  twelve  or  one,  allowed 
to  rise  until  half-past  three  o'clock,  and  then  made  into 
rolls,  which  may  rise  in  a  cool  place  until  twenty  minutes 
of  six.  Or,  if  they  are  wanted  for  a  one-o'clock  luncheon, 
they  may  be  put  together  at  seven  o'clock  ;  doubling  the 
quantity  of  yeast,  kneading  them  at  nine  o'clock,  and 
shaping  them  into  rolls  at  eleven  o'clock. 

Washington  Rolls. 

These  call  for  three  pints  of  flour,  a  scant  pint  of 
milk,  half  a  cupful  of  yeast  or  half  of  a  two-cent  cake 
of  compressed  yeast,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or 
lard,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  egg,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Sift  the  flour  into  a  pan,  and  add  the  salt  and  sugar  to 
it.  If  compressed  yeast  be  used,  dissolve  it  in  one-third 
of  a  cupful  of  warm  water.  Dissolve  the  butter  or  lard 
in  the  milk.  Beat  the  egg  till  very  light,  and  add  it  and 
the  yeast  to  the  milk.  At  this  time  the  milk  should  be 
blood-warm,  and  after  a  little  stirring  the  mixture  should 
be  poured  upon  the  flour.  Beat  well  with  a  spoon  ;  then 
turn  the  mixture  upon  a  floured  board,  and  knead  for 
twenty  minutes.  Return  it  to  the  pan,  and,  covering 
closely,  set  it  in  a  warm  place.  In  four  hours  it  should 
be  a  perfect  sponge.  Work  it  down,  and  let  it  rise  again. 
When  it  has  risen  the  second  time,  form  into  rolls  of 
any  shape,  and  let  these  rise  till  they  are  a  little  more 
than  double  the  original  size.  Bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven  for  half  an  hour. 

The  rolls  may  be  made  about  four  inches  long  and  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  placed  close  together  in  a 


790          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

shallow  pan,  and  when  they  have  risen,  baked  for  half 
an  hour ;  or  they  may  be  shaped  like  balls,  placed  a 
little  distance  apart  in  the  pan,  and  when  they  have 
risen,  baked  for  twenty  minutes.  Another  mode  is  to 
put  the  dough  into  French  roll-pans,  and  when  it  has 
risen,  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes.  This  method  secures 
a  quantity  of  rich,  crisp  crust,  and  gives  the  rolls  a  pecu- 
liar sweetness. 

If  six  o'clock  be  the  hour  for  tea,  it  will  be  well  to 
begin  raising  the  dough  at  eleven  in  the  forenoon.  In 
hot  weather  noon  will  be  early  enough.  It  takes  about 
an  hour  and  a  half  for  the  rolls  to  rise  to  a  little  more 
than  double  the  original  size  in  a  temperature  of  about 
80°.  When  an  especially  tender  and  rich  crust  is  de- 
sired, brush  the  rolls  over  with  soft  butter  or  lard  when 
they  are  about  half  baked. 

*  Potato  Rolls. 

These  will  require  a  quart  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
one  good-sized  potato,  one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
some  boiling  water,  one-fourth  of  a  cake  of  compressed 
yeast  or  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast,  one  level 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Put  the  potato  into  a  small  saucepan,  cover  it  with 
boiling  water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour ;  then  remove  it 
from  the  saucepan,  and  mash  it  till  fine  and  light.  Add 
to  it  half  a  cupful  of  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled. 
E-ub  the  mixture  through  a  strainer  into  a  bowl,  and  add 
the  milk,  sugar,  salt,  butter,  and  yeast.  Sift  the  flour, 
and  beat  half  of  it  into  the  liquid  mixture.  Cover  the 
dish  closely,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place.  When  the 
mixture  has  risen  so  much  as  to  be  perfectly  spongy, 
beat  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour.  Knead  the  dough 
well,  and  put  it  away  to  rise  again.  When  it  is  three 
times  its  original  size,  shape  it  into  rolls,  and  let  these 
rise  in  a  moderate  temperature  for  about  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  791 

The  first  rising  will  occupy  about  five  hours ;  the 
second,  two  hours ;  and  the  third,  one  hour  and  a  half. 
The  actual  work  of  making  the  rolls  will  take  about 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  If  six  o'clock  be  the  time 
for  supper,  the  preparation  of  the  rolls  should  be  begun 
at  8.30  or  8.45  o'clock  in  the  morning.  In  case  one  be  in 
a  hurry,  the  quantity  of  yeast  may  be  doubled,  and  then 
the  rolls  can  be  made  in  five  hours. 

*  White  Mountain  Rolls. 

Sift  two  quarts  of  flour  into  a  mixing-bowl,  and  add 
to  it  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar.  Boil  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  and  while  it  is 
cooling  to  blood-heat,  melt  half  a  cupful  of  butter  in  it. 
When  the  temperature  has  fallen  to  the  desired  degree, 
beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  them 
to  the  milk.  Add  also  half  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast,  or 
half  a  two-cent  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Stir  this  mixture 
into  the  flour,  and  beat  well  with  a  spoon ;  then  knead 
well  for  twenty  minutes.  Let  the  dough  rise  over 
night. 

In  the  morning  take  pieces  about  the  size  of  an  egg, 
and  shape  them  into  long  rolls.  Place  them  side  by  side 
in  a  shallow  cake-pan,  and  let  them  rise  to  a  little  more 
than  double  their  original  size.  Bake  for  half  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Owing  to  the  presence  of  milk  and 
butter  in  the  mixture,  the  rolls  will  be  very  brown  in 
fifteen  minutes;  and  after  that  time  has  passed,  lower 
the  heat  of  the  oven  a  little,  and  cover  the  rolls  with 
brown  paper  for  the  remaining  quarter  of  an  hour. 
White  Mountain  rolls  are  nice  for  luncheon  or  tea. 

Half  of  the  dough  may  be  taken  for  Swedish  bread, 
if  you  choose.  Eoll  it  very  thin,  and  sprinkle  lightly 
with  water,  and  then  with  sugar  and  cinnamon,  — three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  of  cinnamon.  Roll  the 


792          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

same  as  jelly  cake,  and  cut  into  slices  about  an  inch 
thick.  Put  these  slices  into  a  well-buttered  pan,  and 
let  them  rise  to  double  their  size.  Bake  for  twenty 
minutes.  The  dough  may  be  spread  with  butter  instead 
of  being  sprinkled  with  water. 

Or  the  cinnamon  may  be  omitted,  and  the  dough 
sprinkled  with  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  dried  currants. 
These  cakes  are  good  to  eat  with  coffee,  either  at  lun- 
cheon or  after  dinner. 


Luncheon  Rolls. 

Use  for  these  rolls  two  quarts  of  flour,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  currants,  two  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one  pint  and  a  quar- 
ter of  milk,  and  half  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast  or  half  of 
a  two-cent  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

Boil  the  milk,  and  let  it  cool  to  about  100°.  At  about 
nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  sift  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  and 
add  to  it  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  the  salt,  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Mix  all  these  ingredients 
thoroughly.  Beat  one  of  the  eggs,  and  add  to  it  the  milk 
and  yeast.  Stir  this  liquid  into  the  flour,  and  knead 
the  mixture  for  twenty  minutes.  Cover  the  bowl  with  a 
clean  towel,  and  put  a  tin  or  wooden  cover  over  the 
towel.  Let  the  dough  stand  on  the  kitchen  table  during 
Jhe  night. 

In  the  morning  it  will  be  found  spongy.  Cut  it  well 
with  a  knife,  and  knead  for  a  few  minutes  ;  then  put  in 
a  cool  place  till  ten  o'clock.  At  that  time  sprinkle  the 
moulding-board  with  flour,  and  after  turning  the  dough 
out  upon  it,  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch. 
Cut  into  cakes  between  three  and  four  inches  long  and 
about  half  as  wide.  A  pound  baking-powder  can  is 
easily  pressed  into  the  form  desired,  and  serves  very  well 
for  a  cutter.  Spread  the  cakes  with  the  remainder  of 
the  half-cupful  of  butter,  half  of  the  remaining  sugar. 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  AND  MUFFINS.        793 

and  all  the  currants.  Now  fold  up  one  end  of  the  cake, 
so  that  it  conies  almost  to  the  centre,  then  fold  the  other 
end  upon  the  first,  and  press  the  dough  slightly  in  the 
centre.  Place  the  rolls  in  buttered  pans,  cover  them 
with  a  towel,  and  let  them  rise  for  two  hours  in  a  rather 
cool  place.  At  the  end  of  that  time  place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  bake  for  twenty -five  minutes. 

Meanwhile  beat  the  second  egg  well,  and  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water  to  it.  When  the  rolls  have  baked  for 
the  specified  time,  take  them  from  the  oven,  brush  them 
with  the  beaten  egg,  and  sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  sugar 
over  them.  Return  to  the  oven  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes longer. 

These  rolls  are  nice  either  hot  or  cold.  If  they  be 
liked  better  when  cold,  they  may  be  rolled  out  and  baked 
in  the  morning  instead  of  being  kneaded  and  chilled, 
and  baked  later. 

*  Split  Biscuit. 

These  are  made  for  tea  when  bread  has  been  baked  in 
the  morning.  Take  one  pint  of  the  risen  dough,  and 
add  to  it  one  scant  pint  of  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  four  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two 
well-beaten  eggs.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  in  a  bowl, 
cutting  the  dough  with  a  knife.  After  the  mixing,  add 
a  generous  quart  of  sifted  flour.  Knead  the  dough  well, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  six  hours,  when  it 
should  be  a  perfect  sponge.  Work  it  down  well  at  the  end 
of  that  time.  Sprinkle  the  moulding-board  with  flour,  and 
turning  the  dough  upon  the  board,  roll  it  down  to  the 
thickness  of  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch.  Dip  a  biscuit- 
cutter  in  flour,  and  cut  up  the  dough  with  it.  Place  half 
of  the  cakes  in  buttered  pans.  Spread  a  little  soft 
butter  on  each  cake.  Take  fresh  cakes  from  the  board, 
and  put  them  on  top  of  those  already  in  pans.  Cover 
with  clean  towels,  and  set  away  in  a  rather  cool  place,  — 
say  where  the  temperature  is  about  65°.  Let  the  biscuit 


794          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

rise  till  they  are  about  double  their  original  size.  It 
will  take  about  two  hours.  Bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven 
for  half  an  hour.  Two  good-sized  pans  of  biscuit  may 
be  made  with  the  ingredients  mentioned. 

Velvet  Biscuit. 

Use  one  quart  of  flour,  three  eggs,  three  teaspoonfuls 
of  sugar,  one  of  salt,  one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
half  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  or  half  a  cupful  of 
liquid  yeast,  and  one  small  cupful  of  warm  milk. 

If  these  biscuit  are  for  a  six  or  seven  o'clock  tea,  set 
the  sponge  to  rise  at  twelve  o'clock.  Dissolve  the  yeast 
in  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  water.  Pour  it  into  a  bowl 
with  the  milk,  beat  in  one  pint  of  flour,  cover  the  bowl, 
and  set  in  a  warm  place.  When  the  batter  is  risen  to  a 
sponge,  which  should  be  in  about  two  hours,  add  the 
butter,  sugar,  salt,  the  eggs,  —  the  yolks  and  whites 
beaten  separately,  —  and  the  flour.  Knead  this  mixture 
well,  and  let  the  dough  rise  in  a  warm  place.  When 
^ight,  roll  it  on  the  board  to  the  thickness  of  half  an 
inch.  Cut  into  cakes  with  a  small  round  cutter.  Place 
half  the  cakes  a  little  distance  apart  in  a  buttered  pan. 
Butter  each  of  these  cakes  lightly,  and  place  the  remain- 
ing cakes  on  those  in  the  pan.  Cover  with  a  cloth,  and 
let  them  rise  to  double  their  original  size,  —  it  will  take 
about  an  hour  and  a  half.  Bake  in  a  moderately  quick 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  These  biscuit  are  nice  for 
luncheon.  If  desired  at  that  time,  set  the  sponge  at 
seven  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

*Hot  Cross  Buns. 

Use  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  generous  cupful  of  warm 
milk,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of 
butter  or  lard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  half  a  yeast  cake  or  half  a  cupful  of  liquid 
yeast,  and  two  eggs. 


BREAD,   ROLLS,  AND   MUFFINS.  795 

Dissolve  the  butter  in  the  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  sepa- 
rately. Add  all  the  ingredients  to  the  flour,  and  knead 
well.  The  dough  should  be  very  soft.  Let  it  rise  over 
night ;  in  the  morning  break  it  into  pieces  about  the  size 
of  a  large  egg;  work  these  into  rather  flat  cakes,  and 
place  them  in  buttered  pans.  Have  the  cakes  about  half 
an  inch  apart.  Cover  the  pan,  and  set  in  a  warm  place 
when  the  buns  have  risen  to  double  their  original  size, 
which  will  be  in  about  two  hours. 

With  a  sharp  knife  cut  a  cross  in  the  centre  of  each 
bun,  being  careful  not  to  cut  deep.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  These  buns  are  to  be 
served  hot  on  Good  Friday.  They  are  good  at  any  time, 
but,  according  to  custom,  the  cross  should  be  made  on 
them  only  on  that  particular  day. 

*  Bath  Buns. 

Make  the  buns  the  same  as  hot  cross  buns,  only  a 
tittle  larger.  Into  each  bun  work  three  or  four  blocks  of 
sugar.  Dip  each  piece  of  sugar  into  orange  or  lemon 
juice  just  before  putting  it  into  the  bun.  Let  the  buns 
rise  to  double  their  height,  and  then  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Dissolve  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  in  three  of 
milk,  and  when  the  buns  are  baked,  wash  them  over 
with  this  and  return  them  to  the  oven  for  two  minutes. 


*  Currant  Buns, 

Make  the  bun  mixture  the  same  as  for  hot  cross  buns. 
In  the  morning  work  in  one  cupful  of  English  currants. 
Form  the  dough  into  very  small  balls,  and  place  these 
close  together  in  a  buttered  pan.  Let  them  rise  to 
double  their  original  size.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
thirty-five  minutes.  Wash  with  sugar  and  milk  the  same 
as  Bath  buns. 


796          MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


*  Cream-of-tartar  Biscuit. 

Biscuit  are  made  by  a  variety  of  methods,  some  being 
raised  with  yeast,  others  produced  quickly  with  the  aid 
of  soda  and  cream-of-tartar,  or  with  baking-powder,  soda, 
and  sour  milk,  whereas  others  are  made  by  the  use  of 
preparations  of  phosphates,  like  Horsford's. 

When  yeast  is  used,  the  process  is  a  slow  one.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  have  the  temperature  right,  and  to 
raise  the  dough  until  it  is  light,  yet  not  so  much  as  to 
destroy  its  sweetness.  With  soda  and  cream-of-tartar, 
or  any  acid  and  alkali,  the  work  must  be  very  rapid  to 
insure  success.  By  any  of  the  methods  the  aim  is  to 
obtain  carbonic  acid  gas  to  lighten  the  dough.  With 
yeast  we  get  it  by  fermentation,  which  goes  on  slowly ; 
but  witli  an  acid  and  alkali  (as  with  soda  and  cream-of- 
tartar)  we  get  it  by  the  union  of  the  two  substances. 
This  union  does  not  take  place  until  moisture  is  added ; 
therefore  we  may  mix  the  acid  and  alkali  and  keep  them 
together  for  years  and  still  find  them  good,  if  they  have 
been  kept  dry  and  from  the  air.  Baking-powders  are 
proof  of  this.  They  are,  or  should  be,  only  a  mixture 
of  pure  soda,  cream-of-tartar,  and  a  little  starch,  which 
is  needed  when  grinding  the  two  other  substances 
together. 

By  remembering  a  few  things  when  using  an  acid  and 
alkali  in  cooking,  it  is  possible  to  be  morally  sure  of  suc- 
cess. First,  the  gas  is  given  off  as  soon  as  the  mixture 
is  moistened.  Second,  the  greater  the  heat,  the  greater 
the  expansion  of  gas,  air,  and  steam.  To  demonstrate 
this,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  into  each  of 
two  tumblers  ;  and  by  pouring  ice-water  into  one,  you 
will  find  that  the  gas  expands  and  is  given  off  slowly, 
whereas  by  pouring  boiling  water  into  the  second  tumbler, 
you  fill  it  with  expanded  gas  in  an  instant.  As  our  ob- 
ject in  using  the  alkali  and  acid  is  to  obtain  this  gas,  and 
thus  make  the  dough  or  batter  light,  we  should  so  use 


BREAD,  ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  797 

them  that  but  little  of  the  gas  will  be  lost.  Now,  to 
make  perfect  biscuit  or  duinplings  we  must  mix  the 
acid  and  alkali  dry  in  the  flour.  This  is  always  done  if 
baking-powder  be  used,  and  should  be  if  soda  and  cream- 
of-tartar  be  employed.  The  soda  should  be  ground  fine 
on  a  plate  with  a  knife  or  spoon,  and  then  measured, 
and  put  into  the  flour  with  the  cream-of-tartar.  After 
a  thorough  mixing,  the  ingredients  should  be  rubbed 
through  a  sieve.  The  mixing  and  handling  of  the  dough 
should  be  rapid  and  light ;  the  biscuit  should  be  cut 
rather  small,  and  baked  in  a  hot  oven;  and  as  soon  as 
finished  they  should  be  removed  from  the  oven,  as  they 
will  become  tough  and  dark  if  allowed  to  remain  even  a 
short  time. 

To  Make  Biscuit.  —  Mix  with  a  quart  of  flour  (meas- 
ured before  sifting)  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  of  cream- 
of-tartar,  one  of  salt,  and  two  of  sugar,  and  after  rubbing 
all  through  a  sieve,  rub  into  the  mixture  a  table-spoonful 
of  butter.  Wet  with  a  scant  pint  of  cold  milk ;  and  after 
stirring  the  dough  into  the  form  of  a  smooth  ball,  roll  it 
down  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch  upon  a  board  lightly 
sprinkled  with  flour.  Cut  out  the  biscuit,  and,  placing 
them  loosely  in  lightly  buttered  pans,  bake  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  minutes,  —  the  time  depending  upon  the  size 
of  the  biscuit  and  the  heat  of  the  oven.  If  you  prefer, 
you  may  use  three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-pow- 
der instead  of  the  soda  and  cream-of-tartar.  The  dough 
should  be  as  soft  as  you  can  make  it  and  yet  handle  it ; 
for  if  it  be  rather  stiff,  the  biscuit  will  be  hard  and  dry. 

Cream  Biscuit. 

Use  for  a  small  pan  of  biscuit  two  cupfuls  of  flour, 
half  a  cupful  of  sour  cream,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk 
or  buttermilk,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  of 
sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda. 


798          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Mix  the  sugar,  salt,  and  baking-powder  with  the  flour, 
and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and  add  it  to  the  sour  milk  and 
cream.  Stir  quickly  and  well,  and  then  mix  with  the 
dry  ingredients.  Mix  as  quickly  as  possible  with  a 
spoon,  and  turn  on  a  well-floured  board.  Pat  with  the 
hand  until  a  cake  about  half  an  inch  thick  is  formed. 
Cut  this  into,  small  cakes  with  a  tin  cutter,  dipping  the 
cutter  into  flour  each  time.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about 
eight  or  ten  minutes. 

With  the  materials  given  a  very  soft  dough  will  be 
made,  which  must  be  handled  quickly  and  carefully.  If 
heaping  cupfuls  of  flour  were  used,  the  dough  would  be 
firmer  and  more  easily  handled,  but  the  biscuit  would  not 
be  so  delicate. 

*  Dropped  Biscuit. 

For  six  people  use  one  quart  of  flour,  one  pint  of  milk, 
one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  of  salt,  three  of  baking- 
powder,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Mix  all  the 
dry  ingredients  together,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve. 
Put  the  butter  and  a  gill  of  the  milk  in  a  basin,  and  heat 
enough  to  melt  the  butter ;  then  add  the  remainder  of 
the  milk,  and  turn  all  the  liquid  on  the  dry  ingredients. 
Beat  quickly  with  a  spoon.  Drop  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
dough  in  buttered  pans,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven. 
They  should  cook  in  eight  or  ten  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

If  cream  be  plentiful,  omit  the  butter  and  use  a  gill  of 
cream  instead.  In  that  case  use  only  three  gills  of  milk 
instead  of  a  pint. 

*  Quick  Swedish  Bread. 

The  best  Swedish  bread  is  made  with  raised  dough, 
but  this  quick  bread  is  nice  for  luncheon. 

Mix  in  a  sieve,  and  then  run  through  it,  a  quart  of  un- 
sifted flour,  three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  799 

three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt ;  then  rub  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the 
mixture,  doing  it  thoroughly,  and  wet  with  a  scant  pint 
of  cold  milk.  Stir  quickly  into  the  shape  of  a  ball. 
Sprinkle  the  bread-board  with  flour,  and  roll  this  ball 
upon  it  down  to  the  thickness  of  one-third  of  an  inch. 
Sprinkle  upon  the  dough  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  a  light  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  finally  spread  a  cup- 
ful of  dried  currants  over  all.  Koll  up  the  dough  and 
cut  into  slices  about  an  inch  thick.  Place  in  a  baking- 
pan  that  has  been  well  buttered,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven. 

The  currants  may  be  omitted,  if  you  prefer. 

*  English  Brown  Bread. 

Allow  for  three  loaves  of  this  bread  a  quart  of  graham, 
a  quart  of  rye  flour,  a  pint  of  warm  water,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  molasses,  one  of  salt,  one  of  butter,  and  half 
a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  one-third  of  a 
cupful  of  water.  Make  this  bread  in  the  same  way 
entfre-wheat  bread  is  made,  only  bake  it  for  an  hour  and 
a  quarter  instead  of  for  an  hour.  This  is  a  coarse  bread, 
and  very  healthful. 

*  Brown  Bread. 

This  is  the  kind  of  bread  which,  outside  of  New  Eng- 
land, is  always  called  "Boston"  brown  bread.  For 
making  it  you  will  need  a  pint  and  a  half  of  Indian  meal, 
the  same  quantity  of  rye  meal,  half  a  cupful  of  molasses, 
two  pints  and  a  half  of  sweet  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Mix  the  two  kinds  of  meal  together.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  into  the  rest  of 
the  milk ;  then  add  the  salt  and  molasses.  Give  these 
ingredients  a  thorough  mixing,  and  pour  them  upon  the 
mixed  meal.  Beat  vigorously  the  batter  thus  formed, 


800          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  turn  it  into  two  well-buttered  brown-bread  tins. 
Steam  for  five  hours.  On  Sunday  morning  heat  for 
breakfast  by  steaming  for  a  little  while. 

Delicious  toast  may  be  made  from  this  bread. 

*  Maiden  Brown  Bread. 

For  one  large  loaf  or  two  small  ones  use  two  cupfuls 
of  Indian  meal,  one  of  graham,  one  of  flour,  one  of 
molasses,  three  of  warm  water,  one  table-spoonful  of 
soda,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  meals,  flour,  and  salt  together.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  the  water,  and  add  the  molasses.  Pour  this 
mixture  on  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  well,  and  after 
pouring  into  a  buttered  brown-bread  tin,  steam  for  four 
hours. 

To  some  people  half  a  cupful  of  molasses  will  be  more 
satisfactory  than  a  cupful.  In  case  the  smaller  quantity 
be  used,  let  the  measure  of  soda  be  very  scant. 

*  Steamed  Indian  Bread. 

Mix  three  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal,  one  of  flour,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  also  two  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk 
and  one  of  sour  with  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  molasses. 
Dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  one  table-spoonful  of 
cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  milk  and  molasses.  Now 
pour  this  mixture  upon  the  dry  one,  and  after  beating 
thoroughly,  pour  into  a  buttered  two-quart  basin.  Steam 
for  three  hours. 

This  is  especially  nice  to  serve  hot  with  roast  pork. 
It  is  very  good  the  second  day  if  cut  in  slices  and 
steamed  or  toasted. 

*  Indian  Bread. 

With  the  following-named  materials  there  can  be  made 
two  large  loaves  of  Indian  bread,  which  will  be  found 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  AND  MUFFINS.        801 

delicious  when  fresh  from  the  oven,  or  toasted  and  but 
tered,  or  in  the  form  of  brewis  :  one  quart  of  Indian 
meal,  one  of  flour,  one  of  sour  milk,  one  of  buttermilk, 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  molasses,  one-third  of  a  cupful 
of  cold  water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  soda. 

Mix  the  flour,  meal,  and  salt,  and  mix  the  molasses, 
sour  milk,  and  buttermilk.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  cold 
water,  and  stir  the  liquid  into  the  mixture  of  molasses 
and  milk.  Pour  the  mixture  upon  the  flour  and  meal, 
and  stir  well.  Add  a  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  and 
beat  thoroughly.  Grease  with  the  remaining  butter  two 
tin  pans,  each  of  which  easily  holds  two  quarts.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  these  pans,  and  steam  it  for  four  hours 
and  a  half ;  then  transfer  the  pans  from  the  steamer 
feo  the  oven,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

*  Indian-Bread  Brewis. 

Put  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  pint  of  milk  into  a  double- 
boiler,  and  heat  to  the  boiling-point  without  actually 
allowing  the  liquid  to  boil ;  then  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt.  Keep  the  boiler  in  a 
warm  place  while  toasting  half  a  dozen  slices  of  bread. 
Dip  the  slices  singly  into  the  milk  and  cream,  and  after- 
ward lay  them  in  a  hot  deep  dish.  Pour  over  them  any 
milk  and  cream  which  may  remain  in  the  boiler,  and 
serve  the  brewis  hot. 

If  cream  be  plentiful  it  will  be  well  to  use  a  quart 
instead  of  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  pint  of  cream.  Or  a 
quart  of  milk  may  be  used,  and  no  cream,  though  in  this 
case  the  slices  of  toast  should  be  buttered  lightly  before 
being  dipped. 

*  Ground  Rice  Bread. 

To  make  a  sheet  of  this  bread  one  must  take  a  cup- 
ful of  ground  rice,  a  cupful  of  wheat  flour,  half  a  tea- 
fit 


802          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


spoonful  of  soda,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  an  egg,  and  two  gills 
and  a  half  of  milk. 

Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Beat  the  egg  until  light,  and  add  the  milk  to  it. 
Pour  this  mixture  upon  the  first  one,  and  after  adding 
the  butter,  melted,  pour  the  batter  into  a  buttered  shallow 
pan,  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes  or  half  an  hour  in 
a  quick  oven. 

This  bread  is  designed  for  either  luncheon  or  supper, 
and  should  be  served  hot. 

*  Baltimore  Corn  Bread. 

A  scant  quart  of  white  corn  meal,  a  generous  quart  of 
milk,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  three  eggs  are  the 
ingredients  of  which  Baltimore  corn  bread  is  formed. 
Instead  of  half  a  cupful  of  ,butter,  a  quarter  of  a  cup- 
ful and  an  equal  quantity  of  lard  may  be  used,  if  one 
prefer. 

Mix  together  the  meal,  baking-powder,  and  salt,  and 
rub  through  a  sieve.  Next  melt  the  butter.  Beat  the 
eggs  till  light,  and  add  the  milk  to  them  ;  then  pour  the 
mixture  upon  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  well,  and  add 
the  melted  butter;  then  give  the  batter  another  good 
beating,  and  pour  into  well-buttered  shallow  pans.  Bake 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 

*  Florida  Corn  Bread. 

These  are  the  materials  needed:  one  cupful  of  cold 
boiled  hominy,  one  scant  cupful  of  white  corn  meal,  one 
generous  cupful  of  milk,  an  egg,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder. 

Beat  the  hominy   with  a  fork  until  it  is  thoroughly 


BREAD,  ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  803 

broken  ;  then  gradually  beat  in  the  milk.  Mix  the  salt 
and  baking-powder  with  the  meal,  and  add  all  to  the 
hominy  "and  milk ;  then  add  the  egg,  well  beaten,  and 
the  butter,  melted.  Pour  the  mixture  into  two  buttered 
deep  tin  plates,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty 
minutes. 

*  White  Corn  Bread. 

For  one  pan  of  bread  —  enough  for  four  people  —  use 
half  a  pint  of  white  corn  meal,  half  a  pint  of  sifted 
flour,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  a  scant  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  generous  half-pint  of  milk, 
and  two  eggs. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Beat  the  eggs  till  very  light,  and  add  the  milk 
to  them;  then  pour  this  mixture  upon  the  dry  one. 
Add  the  butter,  melted,  and  stir  well.  Pour  the  batter 
into  a  buttered  shallow  pan,  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven  for  half  an  hour. 

This  bread  is  nice  if  baked  in  tin  plates.  The  batter 
will  fill  three  plates  or  a  dozen  muffin-tins. 


Corn  Bread. 

Here  is  a  receipt  for  making  delicious  corn  bread,  —  a 
rather  expensive  rule,  perhaps,  but  a  good  one  to  follow 
once  in  a  while :  Mix  thoroughly  in  a  sieve,  and  then 
rub  through  it,  a  pint  of  white  meal,  a  pint  of  flour,  two 
heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  two  of  baking-powder.  Beat  five  eggs 
till  very  light,  and  add  to  them  a  scant  pint  and  a  half 
of  milk.  Stir  this  liquid  mixture  into  the  dry  one,  and 
add  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  melted  butter.  Pour  the 
batter  into  buttered  muffin-pans  or  a  shallow  cake-pan, 
having  it  about  an  inch  deep.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  half  an  hour. 


804          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Johnny-cake. 

To  make  two  pans  of  this  old-fashioned  corn  cake, 
take  two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk,  half  a  cupful  of  sour 
cream,  one  cupful  of  sifted  flour,  two  of  Indian  meal,  a 
generous  teaspoonful  of  soda,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
an  egg,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  molasses  or  —  if  molasses 
be  not  liked  —  two  of  sugar. 

Put  the  milk,  cream,  molasses,  and  salt  into  a  large 
bowl.  Beat  the  egg  until  light.  Dissolve  the  soda  in 
one  table-spoonful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into  the 
mixture  in  the  bowl ;  then  add  the  flour  and  meal,  and 
after  mixing  these  ingredients  well,  add  the  eggs.  Pour 
the  batter  into  two  buttered  pans,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

If  it  be  inconvenient  to  use  sour  cream,  use  sour  milk 
instead,  and  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter 
at  the  last  moment. 

*  Hominy  Bread. 

Put  a  pint  of  corn  meal  into  a  bowl,  and  pour  upon  it 
a  scant  pint  of  boiling  water.  Beat  well,  and  then  add 
a  pint  of  cold  milk,  a  large  cupful  of  cooked  hominy,  a 
table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  butter  or  lard,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  two  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately. 
Bake  in  a  deep  round  pan  for  thirty-five  minutes,  and 
serve  from  the  same  pan.  It  should  be  so  soft  as  to 
require  a  spoon  for  serving. 

Cold  boiled  rice  may  be  used  instead  of  hominy,  for  a 
change. 

*Thin  Corn  Cake. 

Put  a  heaping  pint  of  Indian  meal  into  a  bowl,  together 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Pour  upon  this  mixture 
nearly  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  and  after  a 
good  beating,  add  a  well-beaten  egg.  Spread  about  half 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  805 

an  inch  thick  on  buttered  tin  sheets,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  until  brown,  —  say  for  thirty -five  minutes.  This  is 
not  a  handsome  corn  cake,  yet  it  is  delicious. 

*  Spider  Corn  Cake. 

For  this  cake  there  is  required  a  frying-pan  with  a 
handle  short  enough  to  go  into  the  oven. 

Mix  together  a  cupful  and  two-thirds  of  corn  meal, 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  a  teaspoonf ul  of  salt.  Beat  two  eggs  till  light, 
and  add  to  them  a  cupful  of  sour  milk  and  one  of  sweet 
milk  in  which  a  small  teaspoonful  of  soda  has  been  dis- 
solved. Pour  this  mixture  upon  the  dry  ingredients, 
and  mix  thoroughly. 

Have  the  frying-pan  very  hot,  and  after  greasing  it 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  pour  the  batter  into 
it.  Now  pour  into  the  mixture  another  cupful  of  sweet 
milk,  but  do  not  stir  the  cake.  Place  the  frying-pan  in 
a  hot  oven,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour.  When  the  cake 
is  cooked,  slip  it  gently  from  a  pan  on  to  a  platter  or 
large  plate. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  forms  of  corn  bread. 

*  Rice  Corn  Cake. 

Put  a  quart  of  milk  and  a  pint  of  boiled  rice  into  a 
double-boiler.  Into  a  large  bowl  put  a  cupful  and  three- 
quarters  of  corn  meal,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
When  the  milk  and  rice  are  found  to  be  boiling,  pour 
gradually  over  the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat  the  mixture 
very  thoroughly.  Beat  six  eggs  till  light, — whites  and 
yolks  separately,  —  and  stir  into  the  mixture.  Have 
ready  some  well-buttered  pans,  and  pour  the  mixture 
into  them.  It  should  be  an  inch  deep.  Bake  in  a  hot 
oven  for  half  an  hour. 


806          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

This  is  a  moist  corn  cake,  but  it  is  sweet  and  delicious. 
With  the  quantities  of  ingredients  mentioned,  two  large 
pans  may  be  filled ;  therefore  half  the  quantities  will  be 
sufficient  in  a  small  family. 

*  Corn  Dodgers. 

Put  into  a  bowl  one  pint  of  Indian  meal,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour 
on  this  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Beat  the  mixture  vig- 
orously for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  and  then  form  it  into 
small  flat  cakes  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Fry  in  fat  for 
ten  minutes  if  there  be  enough  fat  to  immerse  them,  but 
for  fifteen  minutes  if  a  frying-pan  and  only  a  little  fat 
be  used. 

*  Corn  Muffins. 

For  a  dozen  and  a  half  muffins  use  three  gills  of  milk, 
one  pint  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  corn  meal,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  two  of  butter,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of 
the  eggs  separately.  Add  the  milk  to  the  dry  mixture, 
then  the  eggs,  and  finally  the  butter,  melted.  Fill  the 
muffin-pans  two-thirds  of  the  way  to  the  brim,  and  bake 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderately  quick  oven. 


*  Mix  together  thoroughly  in  a  sieve,  and  rub  through 
it,  one  pint  of  corn  meal  (white  or  yellow),  one  pint  of 
flour,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  After  beat- 
ing two  eggs  until  they  are  very  light,  and  adding  a  pint 
and  a  gill  of  milk  to  them,  pour  this  mixture  upon  the 
dry  one,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 
Beat  both  together  quickly  and  thoroughly,  and  pour 
the  preparation  into  buttered  muffin-pans.  Bake  in  a 
rather  quick  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND   MUFFINS.  807 

With  the  quantities  prescribed,  two  dozen  muffins  can 
be  ma'de.  The  pans  may  be  buttered  and  the  dry  in- 
gredients mixed  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve  the  night  or 
day  before,  so  the  morning  work  need  occupy  but  a  few 
moments. 

Trenton   Corn    Muffins. 

This  is  rather  an  expensive  receipt  to  follow,  but 
muffins  made  by  it  are  delicious.  The  materials  are  :  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  cupful  and  two-thirds  of  sifted  flour,  a 
cupful  of  corn  meal,  either  white  or  yellow,  a  scant  half- 
cupful  of  sugar,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  three 
eggs,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  quarter  of  soda,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  and  a  half  of  cream-of-tartar,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Sift  the  flour,  meal,  salt,  and  cream-of-tartar  twice  to- 
gether. Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  after 
beating  the  eggs  well,  add  them  to  this  cream.  Dissolve 
the  soda  in  the  milk,  and  add  to  the  mixture ;  then  add 
the  remaining  ingredients.  Beat  quickly  and  vigorously, 
and  after  pouring  into  well-buttered  muffin-pans,  bake 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven. 

A  dozen  large  muffins  can  be  made  with  the  quantities 
of  ingredients  mentioned. 

*  Rice  Muffins. 

Mix  together  in  a  sieve,  and  then  rub  through  it,  one 
pint  of  flour,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking-powder,  and  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
With  the  hands  rub  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  butter 
into  the  mixture.  Beat  two  eggs  till  light,  and  add  half 
a  pint  of  milk  to  them  ;  then  stir  this  mixture  into  the 
one  first  made,  and  beat  very  light.  When  the  batter  is 
smooth,  add  a  cupful  of  cold  cooked  rice,  and  beat  thor- 
oughly. Bake  in  buttered  muffin-pans  for  thirty-five 
minutes  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 


808          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

*  Hominy  Muffins. 

For  twelve  muffins  use  one  cupful  of  warm  boiled 
hominy,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of 
flour,  one  generous  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  two  eggs. 

Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Beat  the  butter  into  the  hominy,  and  gradually 
beat  in  the  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  till  very  light.  Add 
the  hominy  and  milk  to  the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat 
well ;  then  add  the  well-beaten  eggs.  Pour  the  batter 
into  buttered  muffin-pans,  and  bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven 
for  half  an  hour. 

Cold  hominy  may  be  used,  but  in  that  case  great  care 
should  be  taken  to  break  it  up  with  a  fork  and  then  beat 
in  a  very  little  milk  at  a  time.  In  this  case  the  butter 
must  be  melted  before  it  is  added  to  the  mixture. 

Cream  Muffins. 

Sift  two  cupful  s  of  flour  into  a  large  bowl.  Beat  four 
eggs  very  light,  and  add  to  them  one  cupful  and  a  half 
of  milk  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour  this  mixture 
upon  the  flour,  and  beat  very  thoroughly ;  then  add  a 
cupful  of  cream,  and  beat  again.  Have  gem-pans,  of  iron, 
heated  and  buttered,  and  fill  them  two-thirds  of  the  waj 
to  the  top  with  the  mixture.  Bake  for  forty  minutes  in 
a  rather  quick  oven. 

*  Elmira  Muffins. 

Mix  a  pint  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  and  a  half  of 
baking-powder,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  rub  through  a  sieve. 
Dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  butter  in  one  large 
cupful  of  milk.  Beat  two  eggs  very  light,  —  whites  and 
yolks  separately.  Add  the  milk  and  butter  to  them,  and 


BREAD,   ROLLS,   AND  MUFFINS.  809 

stir  into  the  dry  mixture.     Mix  quickly  and  vigorously, 
and  pour  into  hot  buttered  gem-pans.     Bake  for  twenty 
minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 
These  are  nice  for  luncheon  or  tea. 

*  Entire-Wheat  Muffins. 

For  a  dozen  muffins  there  will  be  required  a  cupful 
and .  a  half  of  entire-wheat  flour,  a  cupful  of  milk,  one- 
third  of  a  cupful  of  water,  an  egg,  a  teaspoonful  of 
cream-of-tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  sift  them  into  a  bowl. 
Beat  the  egg  until  it  is  light,  and  add  the  milk  and 
water  to  it.  Pour  this  mixture  upon  the  dry  ingredients, 
and  beat  quickly  and  vigorously.  Pour  the  batter  into 
buttered  muffin-pans,  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes 
in  a  rather  quick  oven.  The  batter  will  be  thin  and 
give  a  moist  muffin,  but  that  is  as  it  should  be. 

*  Granulated-Wheat  Muffins. 

Mix  together  in  a  sieve,  and  rub  through  it,  three  cup- 
fuls  of  fine-granulated  wheat  meal,  such  as  is  made  by 
the  Health  Food  Company,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Turn  the  bran  from  the  sieve  into  a  bowl. 
Beat  two  eggs  very  light,  and  add  to  them  two  cupfuls 
of  milk  and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water ;  then  pour 
gradually  upon  the  dry  mixture.  Beat  well,  and  pour 
into  two  dozen  muffin-cups.  Bake  in  a  rather  quick  oven 
for  twenty-five  minutes. 

*  Raised  Graham  Muffins. 

Mix  in  a  bowl  a  pint  of  wheat  flour  and  a  pint  of 
graham,  and  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth 
of  a  cupful  of  molasses,  a  generous  pint  of  blood-warm 


810          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

water,  and  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast,  or  one- 
fourth  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Beat  all  these  ingredients 
thoroughly,  and  let  the  mixture  rise  over  night.  In  the 
morning  beat  the  risen  dough  thoroughly,  and  put  it  into 
buttered  French-roll  pans.  Let  it  rise  until  double  its 
first  size,  and  then  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

*  Kentucky  Graham  Muffins. 

Use  a  pint  of  graham  meal,  a  pint  of  flour,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lard  or  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two 
eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  generous  pint  of  sour 
milk.  Mix  the  flour  and  meal,  and  add  the  salt.  After 
dissolving  the  soda  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  milk, 
stir  it  into  the  sour  milk,  and  then  pour  the  latter  upon 
the  mixture  of  flour  and  meal.  Melt  the  butter  and 
add  it,  and  finally  add  the  eggs,  beaten  well.  Bake  in 
buttered  muffin-pans  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty -five 
minutes. 

*  Graham  Puffs. 

There  must  be  taken  for  these  puffs  a  pint  of  milk, 
three  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  sifted  graham,  half  a  pint  of 
sifted  flour,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  together  until 
as  light  as  possible.  Add  the  milk,  sugar,  and  salt,  and 
pour  half  of  the  mixture  upon  the  sifted  graham  and 
flour.  Beat  until  smooth  and  light;  then  add  the 
remainder  of  the  first  mixture.  Add  the  melted  butter, 
beating  the  batter  vigorously.  Butter  a  dozen  little 
stone  cups,  and  set  them  in  an  old  pan.  Fill  the  cups 
with  the  batter,  and  bake  for  an  hour  in  a  rather  quick 
oven.  At  the  end  of  that  time  they  should  be  four 
times  their  original  size.  They  will  not  be,  however, 
unless  baked  in  stone  or  earthen  ware. 


BREAD,   ROLLS,  AND   MUFFINS. 


811 


*  Fried  Graham  Muffins. 

For  five  or  six  persons  use  one  cupful  of  inilk,  one 
cupful  and  a  half  of  sifted  graham,  one  cupful  and  a 
half  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three  teaspoonfuls 
(scant  measure)  of  baking-powder,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  two  eggs. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  through  a  sieve. 
Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  add  the  milk  to  them. 
Add  this  liquid  to  the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat  vigor- 


Dropping  Muffin  Batter  into  Fat. 

ously  for  a  minute.  Have  a  deep  kettle  of  fat  heated  to 
about  350°,  —  about  as  you  would'  have  it  for  doughnuts. 
Dip  a  table-spoon  into  a  cupful  of  milk.  With  this  spoon 
take  up  a  spoonful  of  the  batter,  and  drop  it  into  the  boiling 
fat.  Dip  the  spoon  into  the  milk  each  time,  and  shape 
the  batter  as  smooth  as  possible.  In  this  way  put  half 
the  batter  in  the  fat,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  being 


812          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

careful  not  to  burn  the  muffins.  Take  them  up,  and 
drain  them  on  brown  paper.  Cook  the  remaining  half 
of  the  batter  in  the  same  way. 

*  Fried  Oatmeal  Muffins. 

For  eighteen  muffins,  use  one  cupful  of  cold  oatmeal 
mush,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  graham  meal,  a  scant  half- 
cupful  of  water  or  milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs. 

Beat  the  salt  and  sugar  into  the  oatmeal;  then  add 
the  eggs,  well  beaten ;  next,  the  water ;  and  finally  the 
graham,  mixed  with  the  baking-powder.  Drop  this  mix- 
ture, by  dessert-spoonfuls,  into  boiling  fat,  and  cook  for  ten 
minutes.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  hot. 

*  Baked  Oatmeal  Muffins. 

Prepare  the  mixture  in  the  same  way  as  for  fried 
muffins,  but  increase  the  quantity  of  the  liquid  used  by 
half  a  gill,  and  also  add  one  table-spoonful  of  melted 
butter.  Pour  the  mixture  into  buttered  muffin-pans,  and 
bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  hot  oven. 

*  Scotch  Oat  Cakes. 

These  are  the  thin  hard  cakes  which  one  finds  in 
Scotland  and  occasionally  in  this  country.  They  are 
simple,  and  yet,  lacking  a  good  receipt,  one  might  ex- 
periment frequently  for  years  (as  the  writer  had  done) 
without  succeeding  in  making  them.  The  meal  used 
should  be  that  which  is  ground  rather  fine.  Canadian 
oatmeal  is  especially  good,  and  it  is  also  good  for  mush 
if  one  does  not  care  to  have  the  grains  distinct.  In 
making  these  oat  cakes  for  the  first  time  it  will  be  well 
not  to  use  much  material.  Here  is  a  rule  for  making 
two  cakes :  — 


BREAD,   ROLLS,  AND   MUFFINS.  813 

Use  one  cupful  of  oatmeal,  one  of  boiling  water,  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  meal  and  salt  in  a  bowl.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
cup,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  back  part  of  the  range 
where  it  will  melt.  Now  fill  the  cup  with  boiling  water, 
and  pour  the  liquid  on  the  meal  and  salt.  Beat  well 
with  a  spoon  ;  then  work  the  dough  with  the  hands 
for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  This  will  make  it  firm  and 
rather  tough.  As  the  dough  is  hot  it  is  rather  hard  to 
handle,  but  unless  it  be  worked  well  with  the  hands 
while  hot  it  will  not  make  good  cakes. 

Now  divide  the  dough  into  two  pieces,  and  make 
two  thin  cakes  of  it.  This  may  be  done  in  either  of 
two  ways.  The  first  and  better  way  is  to  press  out 
the  dough  with  the  hands ;  the  other  is  to  use  the 
rolling-pin. 

Sprinkle  the  moulding-board  with  dry  meal,  and  put 
the  ball  of  dough  on  it.  Now  pat  the  dough  until  it 
becomes  very  thin ;  pressing  down  with  the  palm  of  the 
right  hand,  and  using  the  left  hand  for  pressing  in  the 
edges,  to  keep  the  cake  round  and  smooth.  The  dough 
must  be  lifted  frequently.  When  it  is  almost  as  thin  as 
the  blade  of  a  knife,  lift  it  carefully,  and  place  on  the 
outside  of  a  broiler.  Put  something  on  the  back  part  of 
the  stove  to  raise  the  broiler  about  two  or  three  inches 
from  the  iron.  A  meat-rack  is  a  good  thing;  or  two 
bricks  will  do.  Cook  the  cake  slowly  for  about  an  hour, 
turning  it  when  it  has  become  slightly  browned  on  one 
side.  It  must  never  be  allowed  to  get  very  brown. 

Oat  cakes  may  be  baked  on  a  griddle.  It  will  take 
about  as  long  to  cook  them  as  if  a  broiler  were  used. 
They  will  keep  a  long  time,  and  are  especially  nice  with 
cheese  for  luncheon. 

*  Muffins  Cooked  on  the  Griddle. 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  flour,  two  cupf uls  and 
one-half  of  warm  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 


814         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

butter,  one-fourth  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  and  two  eggs. 

Put  the  flour,  sugar,  and  salt  into  a  bowl.  Dissolve 
the  yeast  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk ;  then  add  it,  with 
the  rest  of  the  milk,  to  the  flour,  and  beat  the  mixture 
well.  Now  beat  the  eggs  till  light,  and  add  them  and 
the  butter  to  the  batter  just  made.  Beat  vigorously  for 
ten  minutes.  Cover  the  bowl,  and  set  it  in  a  warm 
place. 

In  the  morning  butter  some  muffin-rings,  and  grease 
the  griddle  with  either  pork  or  butter.  Spread  the  rings 
on  the  griddle,  which  must  be  nearly  as  hot  as  for  ordi- 
nary griddle-cakes.  Put  a  large  spoonful  of  the  risen 
batter  into  each  ring,  and  cook  until  brown  on  one  side ; 
then  turn  the  muffins,  and  cook  them  on  the  other  side. 
It  will  take  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes  to  brown  them 
completely. 

With  the  materials  mentioned,  two  dozen  muffins  can 
be  made.  If  wanted  for  supper,  put  them  to  rise  at 
about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning;  or  if  wanted  for 
luncheon,  make  them  at  the  same  hour,  but  use  half  a 
cake  of  yeast  instead  of  one-quarter  of  a  cake. 


*  Crumpets. 

To  make  two  dozen  crumpets  there  will  be  required 
five  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast,  two  cupfuls  and  a  fourth  of  warm  water, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and 
three  generous  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Put  the  flour,  sugar,  and  salt  into  a  deep  bowl.  Dis- 
solve the  yeast  in  a  small  part  of  the  warm  water,  and 
then  add  the  remainder  of  the  water.  Pour  the  liquid 
upon  the  flour,  and  beat  until  a  smooth,  light  batter  is 
formed.  Cover  it  closely,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  over  night.  In  the  morning  melt  the  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  beat  into  the  risen  batter.  Fill 


BREAD,   ROLLS,  AND   MUFFINS.  815 

buttered  muffin-pans  with  the  mixture,  and  after  keeping 
in  a  warm  place  for  half  an  hour,  bake  for  an  equal 
period  in  a  moderate  oven.  Or,  instead  of  baking  in  the 
oven,  bake  in  rings  on  the  griddle,  like  muffins  cooked 
on  the  griddle. 

*  Luncheon  Muffins. 

For  a  dozen  muffins  use  one  pint  of  flour,  half  a  pint 
of  cream  or  milk,  an  egg,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one 
of  sugar,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  flour  and  baking-powder.  Beat  the  egg  and 
sugar  together.  Melt  the  butter,  and  after  adding  it  to 
the  beaten  egg  and  sugar,  beat  the  mixture  for  a  minute. 
Now  add  the  salt  and  milk,  and  finally  the  flour  and 
baking-powder.  Mix  quickly,  and  after  putting  into 
buttered  muffin-pans,  bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven  for 
twenty-five  minutes. 

*  Wheat  Gems. 

These  are  easily  and  quickly  made.  The  materials 
are :  a  quart  of  milk,  a  quart  of  sifted  flour,  half  a  dozen 
eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  two  sets  of  iron  gem-pans  where  they  will  get  very 
hot.  Beat  the  eggs  until  light  (it  is  well  to  use  a  Dover 
egg-beater) ;  then  add  the  sugar,  salt,  and  milk.  Grad- 
ually pour  this  mixture  upon  the  sifted  flour,  beating 
thoroughly ;  and  add  the  table-spoonful  of  butter,  melted. 
Dip  a  piece  of  clean  cloth  into  some  soft  butter,  and  rub 
it  over  the  hot  gem-pans ;  then  pour  the  batter  into  the 
pans,  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes.  The  cakes  will  be 
light  and  delicate,  and  about  double  their  original  size. 
The  same  mixture,  baked  in  earthen  cups  for  an  hour, 
would  increase  to  four  times  its  first  size,  and  the  cakes 
would  then  be  called  pop-overs, 


816          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Wheat  Drop  Cakes. 

The  materials  needed  are :  one  pint  of  flour,  two  tea- 
spooufuls  of  baking-powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  generous  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful 
of  melted  butter,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  one  egg. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  and  rub  through  a 
sieve.  Now  add  the  milk,  and  also  the  egg,  well  beaten. 
Finally  add  the  melted  butter.  Drop  this  batter  into 
boiling  fat  by  dessert-spoonfuls,  and  cook  for  six  minutes. 
Serve  hot  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  tea. 

With  the  quantity  of  materials  given  above,  two  small 
plates  of  cakes  can  be  made. 

*  Poverty  Cakes. 

Use  one  pint  and  a  half  of  rye  meal,  half  a  pint  of 
corn  meal,  a  scant  half-cupful  of  molasses,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one  fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  egg, 
and  one  pint  of  cold  water. 

Mix  the  meals  and  salt.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  one 
table-spoonful  of  the  water ;  then  add  it  to  the  rest  of 
the  water  and  the  molasses,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Pour 
this  mixture  upon  the  first  one,  and  mix  well.  Now 
add  the  egg,  well  beaten.  Drop  this  batter,  by  dessert- 
spoonfuls, into  boiling  fat,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  hot. 

*  Lapland  Cakes. 

After  beating  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  the  yolks  as  light  as  possible,  mix  the  two,  and  add 
a  pint  of  not  very  rich  cream  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Pour  the  mixture  upon  a  generous  pint  of  sifted 
flour ;  and  after  beating  vigorously,  pour  it  into  buttered 
cups  of  brown  earthenware.  Bake  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  in  a  moderately  quick  oven.  These  cakes  may 
be  baked  in  half  an  hour  in  iron  gem-pans,  but  will  not 
be  so  light  as  if  they  came  from  cups. 


BREAD,    ROLLS,   AND  MUFFINS.  817 


*  Rye  Pop-Overs. 

Put  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  rye  meal  and  a  cupful  of 
wheat  flour  into  a  bowl,  with  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  three  eggs  together 
until  very  light,  and  add  a  pint  of  milk  to  them ;  then 
pour  two-thirds  of  this  mixture  over  that  in  the  bowl, 
and  after  beating  well,  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk 
and  egg  mixture.  Butter  a  dozen  little  stone  cups,  and 
put  them  into  an  old  pan.  Pour  the  batter  into  them, 
and  bake  for  an  hour,  having  the  oven  very  hot  the  first 
half-hour,  and  then  reducing  the  heat. 

*  Fried  Raised  Cakes. 

These  are  made  of  common  bread  dough,  and  afford  a 
pleasant  change  of  fare  once  in  a  while.  If  provision 
is  to  be  made  for  five  or  six  persons,  take  about  a  quart 
of  the  risen  dough.  Cut  it  into  pieces  about  half  the 
size  of  an  egg,  and  roll  into  cylindrical  pieces  about  four 
inches  long.  Place  on  a  slightly  floured  board,  being 
careful  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other ;  and  after 
covering  them  with  a  towel,  let  them  rise  in  a  warm 
place  for  forty  minutes. 

Have  a  deep  kettle  of  fat  heated  to  about  350°,  and 
drop  into  it  as  many  cakes  as  can  be  cooked  without  any 
crowding.  Allowance  must  be  made  for  an  increase  of 
about  one-third  in  the  size  of  the  cakes  after  they  are 
put  in  the  fat.  Cook  for  six  minutes. 

These  cakes  may  be  served  as  hot  bread,  to  go  with 
meats,  or  with  syrup,  like  griddle-cakes.  When  syrup 
is  used,  the  cakes  may  be  improved  by  a  sprinkling  of 
sugar,  and  a  slight  flavoring  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 


818          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BEVERAGES. 


*A  CUP  OF  TEA. 

FEW  good  things  for  the  table  are  more  easily  made 
than  a  bright  cup  of  tea,  yet  few  are  rarer.  The  expla- 
nation is  found  in  the  common  feeling  that  anybody  can 
make  a  pot  of  tea,  which  leads  to  carelessness  in  doing 
the  slight  work  required.  Proper  treatment  of  a  poor 
quality  of  tea  will  give  a  better  result  than  improper  use 
of  a  fine  brand. 

It  is  astonishing  that  so  many  people  are  satisfied  with 
that  coarse  green  tea  called  "  Japan."  This  kind  would 
be  bad  enough,  even  if  it  were  infused,  or  steeped,  in  the 
most  approved  manner;  and  generally  the  steeping  is 
far  from  perfect,  making  the  drinker  —  if  accustomed  to 
black  or  Oolong  tea  of  good  quality  —  wonder  how  any- 
body can  be  willing  to  adopt  it  permanently.  Still,  it  is 
not  always  the  Japan  tea  which  produces  a  poor  drink. 
At  some  tables,  where  everything  else  may  be  excellent, 
the  tea  is  poor,  though  the  dry  article  may  have  cost  a 
dollar  or  more  a  pound.  Such  tea  will  not  injure  the 
consumers  so  much  as  improperly  drawn  Japan  tea  will, 
yet  it  certainly  cannot  cheer  them. 

In  making  tea  always  use  an  earthen,  china,  or  silver 
teapot,  —  never  tin  or  granite  ware.  Pour  boiling  water 
into  the  pot,  and  let  it  stand  long  enough  to  heat  the  pot 
thoroughly ;  then  pour  out  every  drop  of  the  water,  and 
put  in  the  dry  tea.  Cover  the  pot,  and  let  it  stand  for 


BEVERAGES.  819 


five  minutes  on  a  part  of  the  stove  where  it  will  keep 
hot.  At  the  end  of  the  five  minutes  pour  in  some  boiling 
water,  and  send  the  tea  to  the  dining-room.  There  will 
be  time  for  a  sufficient  steeping  while  the  pot  is  being 
carried  from  the  stove  to  the  table. 

This  method  of  preparing  tea  insures  a  fresh,  bright, 
invigorating  drink.  Remember  that  the  tea-pot  must  be 
free  of  moisture  and  old  leaves  when  the  fresh  tea  is  put 
in ;  that  the  water  used  must  be  boiling  so  rapidly  in  the 
kettle  that  steam  comes  from  the  spout  in  a  dense  vol- 
ume ;  and  that  fresh  water  should  be  put  into  the  kettle 
whenever  tea  is  to  be  made.  These  directions  apply  to 
all  kinds  of  tea,  save  that  English  breakfast  tea  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  on  the  stove  for  five  or  eight  min- 
utes after  the  water  is  put  with  it,  and  almost,  yet  not 
quite,  be  allowed  to  boil. 

The  quantity  of  dry  tea  to  be  used  for  each  person 
depends,  of  course,  upon  individual  tastes  ;  nevertheless, 
the  old  rule,  "  a  teaspoonful  for  each  person  and  one  for 
the  teapot,"  is  a  good  one,  and  by  following  it,  and  allow- 
ing a  generous  half-pint  of  water  to  each  spoonful  of  tea, 
one  gets  a  moderately  strong  cup. 

COFFEE. 

To  the  lover  of  coffee  nothing  can  surpass  a  perfect 
cup  of  this  beverage.  Tastes  differ  as  to  the  proper 
degree  of  strength  of  this  drink,  but  there  is  little  differ- 
ence in  opinion  as  to  the  flavor  of  the  coffee,  which  should 
be  smooth  and  "bright."  A  great  deal  depends  upon 
the  berry  and  the  way  it  is  roasted.  Comparatively  few 
people  roast  their  own  coffee  in  these  days,  the  work 
being  done  so  well  by  large  establishments.  Mocha  and 
Java  mixed  —  one-third  Mocha  and  two-thirds  Java  — 
are  considered  to  be  the  best  combination.  Still,  many 
other  kinds,  when  properly  roasted  and  made,  give  very 
satisfactory  results, 


820          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*To  Roast  Coffee. 

Wash  the  berries  in  cold  water,  and  dry  them  by  drain- 
ing on  a  sieve  for  several  hours.  When  dry,  put  them 
in  a  large  dripping-pan,  being  careful  not  to  have  them 
more  than  half  an  inch  deep.  Place  in  a  very  moderate 
oven,  and  close  the  door.  Stir  every  five  minutes  until 
the  berries  are  a  rich  dark  brown,  which  should  be  in 
about  an  hour.  To  every  quart  of  the  coffee  add  a  gener- 
ous table-spoonful  of  butter.  Stir  well,  and  return  to  the 
oven  for  five  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  till 
light  but  not  dry.  Take  the  coffee  from  the  oven  and 
stir  in  these  beaten  whites.  Mix  very  thoroughly.  Put 
the  coffee  in  a  tin  box  or  in  self-sealing  jars. 

A  word  of  caution :  In  roasting  the  coffee  great  care 
must  be  taken  that  no  part  of  it  shall  get  scorched.  Stir 
every  time  from  the  sides,  bottom,  and  corners. 

*  Boiled  Coffee. 

There  are  many  methods  of  making  coffee,  but  the 
simplest  is  the  best.  Coffee  made  in  the  French  biggin 
is  smooth,  clear,  and  of  good  flavor.  That  which  is  boiled 
is  cleared  with  various  substances.  It  has  a  different 
flavor  from  the  filtered  coffee.  Many  people  use  the 
boiled  coffee  for  breakfast  and  the  filtered  coffee  for 
dinner. 

Put  one  cupful  of  roasted  coffee  into  a  small  frying- 
pan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  hot,  being  careful  not 
to  burn  it.  Grind  the  coffee  rather  coarse,  and  put  it  in 
a  common  coffee-pot.  Beat  one  egg  well,  and  add  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water  to  it.  Stir  this  mixture 
into  the  coffee.  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water  on  the 
coffee,  and  place  the  pot  on  the  fire.  Stir  the  coffee  until 
it  boils,  being  careful  not  to  let  it  boil  over ;  then  place 
on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  it  will  just  bubble  for 
ten  minutes,  Pour  a  little  of  the  coffee  into  a  cup,  and 


BEVERAGES.  821 


return  it  to  the  pot.  Do  this  several  times.  This  is  to 
free  the  nozzle  of  particles  of  coffee  and  egg  which  may 
have  lodged  there.  Place  the  coffee-pot  where  it  will 
keep  warm,  but  not  get  so  hot  that  the  contents  will 
bubble.  After  it  has  stood  for  five  minutes  strain  it  into 
a  hot  coffee-pot,  and  send  to  the  table  at  once. 

This  gives  a  rather  strong  coffee,  and  yet  it  is  not 
strong  enough  for  some  people.  More  or  less  water  may 
be  used,  as  the  drink  may  be  liked  strong  or  weak. 


*  Here  is  another  way  to  boil  coffee :   Soak  a  piece 
of  isinglass,  about  two  inches  square,  in  half  a  gill  of 
cold  water.     Put  the  coffee  in  the  pot,  and  add  the  boil- 
ing water.     Place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  stir 
in  the  soaked  isinglass.     Set  back  where  it  will  simmer 
for  ten  minutes,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time,  strain  and 
serve. 

*  Still  another  way  is  to  put  the  coffee  in  a  thin  flannel 
bag.    Place  this  in  the  coffee-pot,  and  add  the  boiling  water. 
Place  the  pot  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  having  the  water  in  the  saucepan 
boil  all  the  time. 

*  Filtered  Coffee. 

Heat  the  coffee,  and  grind  it  very  fine.  Put  it  in 
the  filter,  and  place  the  biggin  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  and  on  the  back  of  the  stove.  If  one  cupful  of 
coffee  be  used,  add  a  gill  of  boiling  water.  Cover,  and 
let  it  stand  for  five  minutes.  When  that  time  has  passed 
add  another  gill  of  boiling  water.  Continue  adding  boil- 
ing water  every  two  or  three  minutes  until  the  amount 
required  is  used.  If  the  coffee  be  desired  very  strong,  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  water  —  six  gills  —  will  be  the  right 
quantity,  but  for  breakfast  coffee  this  would  be  too  strong 
for  most  people.  Three  pints  of  boiling  water  would  be 


822          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

right  for  the  average  taste.  This  coft'ee  must  never  boil ; 
boiling  would  change  its  entire  character. 

Coffee  should  be  served  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  is 
made.  The  fine,  bright  flavor  is  lost  if  it  stands  long. 

A  cup  of  coffee  is  not  perfect  without  cream.  All 
cannot  have  cream,  and  the  next  best  thing  is  hot  milk. 
The  milk  should  be  heated  to  the  boiling-point,  but 
should  not  boil.  Adding  water  to  a  cup  of  coffee  to 
reduce  the  strength  spoils  it.  Always  dilute  with  hot 
milk. 

Creole  Coffee. 

Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  in  a  small  saucepan, 
and  place  on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  it  will  brown 
slowly.  Do  not  stir  it.  When  it  has  burned  almost 
black,  add  a  generous  gill  of  water.  Let  it  simmer  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved. 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  fine-ground  coffee  into  a  biggin, 
and  pour  the  caramel  over  it.  Place  the  biggin  on  the 
back  of  the  stove,  and  gradually  add  three  pints  of  boil- 
ing water. 

This  is  a  nice  after-dinner  coffee,  served  with  sugar 

and  cream. 

x 

CHOCOLATE. 

When  properly  made  this  is  a  grateful  and  nutritious 
drink;  but  what  can  be  more  unappetizing  than  a  cup 
covered  with  oil  ?  If  the  chocolate  be  kept  hot  for  some 
time  after  it  is  made,  the  oily  particles  will  separate 
from  the  other  substances,  making  the  drink  unsightly 
and  indigestible.  Chocolate,  however  made,  should  be 
finished  just  at  the  time  of  serving. 

As  in  the  case  of  tea  and  coffee,  tastes  differ  as  to  the 
strength  of  chocolate.  In  the  opinion  of  many  people 
one  ounce  of  plain  chocolate  to  one  quart  of  milk  is 
about  the  right  proportion,  while  others  would  like  four 


BEVERAGES.  823 


ounces  of  chocolate  to  a  quart  of  milk.  Again,  some 
persons  want  the  chocolate  thick,  and  if  enough  plain 
chocolate  be  used  to  make  it  thick  the  drink  will  be 
bitter.  Maillard's  vanilla  chocolate  will  make  the  drink 
thick  and  of  good  flavor. 

Mulling  chocolate  will  make  it  thick.  The  small  dasher 
that  comes  in  chocolate  pots  is  called  a  muller.  This  is 
worked  up  and  down  the  same  as  one  churns  butter. 
The  process  froths  and  thickens  the  chocolate.  If  one 
have  no  muller,  it  will  be  well  to  make  the  chocolate  in 
the  double-boiler  and  beat  it  up  with  a  whisk. 

Many  folks  think  a  cup  of  chocolate  is  improved  by 
the  addition  of  a  table-spoonful  of  whipped  cream.  The 
cream  can  be  whipped  and  drained  and  seasoned  with  a 
little  sugar  and  vanilla ;  or  it  may  be  used  plain. 

Rich  Chocolate. 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  in  the  double-boiler,  and  on  the 
fire.  Put  into  a  small  frying-pan  four  ounces  of  Mail- 
lard's  vanilla  chocolate,  scraped  fine,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Stir  this 
preparation  over  a  hot  fire  until  it  becomes  smooth  and 
glossy,  which  will  be  in  about  one  minute ;  then  stir  the 
dissolved  chocolate  into  the  boiling  milk.  Whisk  well, 
and  then  pour  into  a  hot  chocolate  jug.  Send  to  the 
table  with  a  bowl  of  whipped  cream. 

*  Plain  Chocolate. 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  into  the  double-boiler,  and  on  the 
fire.  Scrape  two  ounces  of  Walter  Baker  &  Co.'s  or  any 
plain  chocolate.  Put  it  in  a  small  frying-pan  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  two  of  water.  Place  on  a 
hot  part  of  the  fire,  and  stir  constantly  until  smooth  and 
glossy.  Stir  this  into  the  boiling  milk.  Beat  with  the 
whisk  for  three  minutes,  and  serve  in  a  hot  chocolate  jug 
or  pitcher. 


824          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

If  the  chocolate  be  desired  thick,  mix  a  table-spoonful 
of  arrowroot  or  corn-starch  with  half  a  gill  of  cold  milk, 
and  stir  this  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Cook  for 
ten  minutes.  Now  dissolve  the  chocolate,  and  after  add- 
ing it  to  the  thickened  milk,  whisk  well. 

Half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  if  it  be  liked,  may  be 
added  to  plain  chocolate. 


OTHER    DRINKS. 

*  Broma. 

Put  a  heaping  table-spoonful  of  broma  into  a  saucepan. 
Gradually  add  one  gill  of  boiling  water,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Now  add  one  pint  of  hot  milk  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and 
stir  until  the  mixture  boils.  Serve  at  once. 

If  this  drink  be  liked  strong,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
broma  may  be  used. 

*  Breakfast   Cocoa. 
Prepare  breakfast  cocoa  exactly  the  same  as  broma. 

*  Cracked  Cocoa  and  Cocoa  Shells. 

Put  a  cupful  of  cocoa  shells  into  a  large  cocoa-pot, 
and  add  a  table-spoonful  of  cracked  cocoa  and  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  gently  for  four  hours.  Strain, 
and  serve  with  hot  milk  and  sugar. 

*  Cocoatina. 

Wilbur's  cocoatina  makes  a  most  delicious  drink.  It 
is  a  good  deal  like  chocolate,  but  much  more  delicate, 
and  comparatively  free  of  oil.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  cocoatina  in  a  bowl  with  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
Add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water.  Hub  this 


BEVERAGES.  825 


to  a  smooth  paste,  and  then  stir  it  into  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  boiling  milk ;  whisk  well,  and  pour  into  a  hot  jug. 
Serve  at  once. 

If  the  drink  be  liked  stronger,  more  of  the  powder 
may  be  used. 

Soda  Cream. 

When  warm  weather  comes,  perhaps  the  young  folks 
will  enjoy  this  drink.  To  make  the  syrup,  use  the 
following-named  ingredients  :  one  quart  of  boiling  water, 
one  quart  of  granulated  sugar,  two  ounces  of  tartaric 
acid,  the  white  of  one  egg,  one  table-spoonful  of  warm 
water,  four  of  cold  water,  and  some  kind  of  flavor. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  boiling  water  together  for  ten 
minutes;  then  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  dissolve 
the  tartaric  acid  in  the  four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water, 
and  add  to  the  syrup.  Beat  the  white  of  the  egg  with 
the  warm  water,  being  careful  to  break  it  thoroughly,  yet 
not  to  make  it  light.  Add  this  liquid  to  the  syrup. 
Stir  well,  and  pour  through  a  fine  strainer.  Divide  this 
mixture  in  halves,  and  add  to  one  part  a  teaspoonful  and 
a  half  of  vanilla  extract,  and  to  the  other  part  a  tea- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  lemon  extract.  Other  flavors 
may  be  substituted  for  those  named.  Bottle  the  syrup, 
and  put  in  a  cool  place.  The  bottles  should  be  labelled. 

Now  prepare  the  soda.  It  is  well  to  get  some  pow- 
dered and  sifted  soda  at  a  drugstore.  If  the  common 
soda  be  used,  powder  and  sift  it.  Fold  up  in  each  of  a 
number  of  small  papers  about  as  much  soda  as  would  be 
contained  in  a  lump  the  size  of  a  large  pea.  About 
thirty  powders  will  be  required  for  the  quantity  of 
syrup  made.  Keep  them  in  a  box  beside  the  bottles, 
where  they  will  be  ready  for  use  at  any  time. 

To  prepare  the  soda  for  drinking,  half  fill  a  glass  with 
ice-water,  then  put  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  syrup,  and 
finally  add  one  of  the  powders,  stirring  quickly  until 
the  drink  foams. 


826          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

A  Refreshing  Drink. 

When  fresh  fruits  are  plentiful,  a  delicious  drink  may 
be  made  by  mixing  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  lemon 
juice,  a  pint  of  the  juice  of  strawberries  or  raspberries,  a 
small  pineapple,  grated,  two  quarts  of  water,  and  ice 
enough  to  make  very  cold.  Three  quarts  of  the  bever- 
age can  be  made  with  these  articles.  It  will  be  found 
nice  for  a  garden  or  lawn  party. 


PRESERVING.  827 


PRESERVING. 

. 

THE  work  of  preserving  requires  time  and  pains  ;  and 
unless  one  be  willing  to  meet  both  of  these  requirements 
with  a  determination  not  to  feel  burdened,  it  will  be 
better  to  buy  such  supplies  as  may  be  needed  from  time 
to  time.  Still,  it  is  a  comfort  to  a  woman  to  have  a  good 
stock  of  her  own  making  when  the  long  season  comes  in 
which  fresh  fruit  cannot  be  obtained;  for  if  she  have 
articles  which  she  herself  has  produced,  or  which  she 
has  had  made  by  some  one  of  the  many  women  who 
make  a  business  of  preserving  for  others,  there  will  never 
be  any  doubt  as  to  the  quality  of  the  fruit  when  it  is 
wanted  for  the  table  on  any  particular  occasion.  In  the 
matter  of  jellies,  especially,  the  wise  housekeeper  either 
makes  exactly  what  she  desires,  or  has  the  work  done 
under  her  supervision, — not  trusting  to  the  grocer  for 
a  supply.  Only  a  small  proportion  of  the  jellies  which 
are  sold  in  stores  is  made  from  fruit  juice,  and  a  roast  of 
mutton  or  venison  is  not  complete  without  a  tumbler  of 
currant,  grape,  or  barberry  jelly. 

The  season  for  one  fruit  succeeds  that  for  another  so 
rapidly  during  the  summer  that  unless  a  housekeeper  be 
watchful,  the  particular  fruits  which  she  may  have 
thought  of  preserving  will  go  by  before  she  is  aware 
of  it.  When  it  comes  to  fruit  like  the  blackberry,  which 
ripens  in  Florida  in  March  and  April,  and  which  can  be 
found  in  perfection  in  Vermont  as  late  as  September,  it 
is  hard  to  say  which  is  the  best  time  for  its  preservation. 
A  good  general  rule  is  that  all  fruits  are  at  their  best 
for  canning  when  they  are  ripe  and  firm  ;  but  they  should 


828          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

not  be  allowed  to  pass  to  the  stage  of  over-ripeness,  for 
decay  will  follow  quickly.  This  is  especially  true  when 
making  currant  jelly.  Watch  the  market,  and  use  the 
various  fruits  when  they  can  be  had  in  perfection.  Fruit 
is  generally  cheapest  when  in  its  prime. 

Utensils  Needed  when  Preserving. 

Many  people  look  upon  the  work  of  preserving  as  hard 
and  uncertain  as  to  results.  When  an  oil  or  a  gas  stove 
is  used,  the  objection  to  the  heat  is  removed ;  and  if  the 
directions  given  in  this  chapter  be  followed  carefully,  there 
need  be  no  fear  of  failure.  When  preserving  is  to  be 
done,  there  should  be  plenty  of  large  earthen  mixing- 
bowls,  a  grocer's  tunnel  (one  with  a  mouth  much  broader 
than  ordinary  tunnels  have),  two  or  three  long-handled 
wooden  spoons,  a  long-handled  skimmer,  two  preserving- 
kettles,  either  granite-ware  or  porcelain-lined,  two  large 
milk-pans,  scales,  a  quart  measure,  two  squares  of  cheese- 
cloth, a  colander,  a  puree-sieve,  and  a  pointed  flannel 
bag. 

What  Kind  of  Jars  to  Use. 

In  small  families  it  is  more  economical  to  use  pint 
jars  than  those  of  larger  size,  for  small  fruits.  If  the 
fruits  always  be  put  up  in  the  self-sealing  jars,  the 
amount  of  sugar  can  be  varied  to  suit  individual  tastes, 
as  sugar  is  not  essential  to  the  preservation  of  the  fruit 
when  such  jars  are  used. 

A  Few  General  Directions. 

Peaches,  pears,  crab-apples,  damsons  and  other  plums 
are  preserved  whole,  a  syrup  being  prepared  for  them. 
Having  the  fruit  ready,  put  in  only  such  a  quantity  as 
will  float  freely  in  the  syrup,  and  cook  slowly  until 
tender.  Pears  should  be  cooked  for  about  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes ;  peaches,  ten  to  fifteen  minutes ;  plums, 


PRESERVING.  829 


three  to  five  minutes.  Pears  and  peaches  should  be 
dropped  into  cold  water  as  they  are  pared,  so  that  they 
may  not  become  discolored.  In  order  to  pare  peaches, 
put  them  into  a  wire  basket,  and  plunge  into  boiling 
water  for  about  two  minutes ;  then  the  skin  will  come 
off  readily.  White  plums  are  skinned  in  the  same  way, 
and  damsons  should  not  be  skinned  at  all. 

The  jars  in  which  fruit  is  to  be  put  should  be  heated 
gradually  in  a  pan  of  water.  After  they  have  been 
nearly  filled  with  hot  fruit,  boiling  syrup  should  be 
poured  over  them.  The  covers,  if  glass,  also  should  be 
heated,  and  should  be  fastened  upon  the  jars  while  hot. 
Under  these  conditions  —  provided,  of  course,  that  the 
covers  be  fastened  securely  —  the  fruit  may  be  kept  an 
indefinite  time ;  indeed,  any  fruit  that  is  made  boiling 
hot,  and  is  at  once  put  into  jars  in  the  way  just  described, 
may  be  kept  as  long  as  one  pleases,  even  if  no  sugar  has 
been  used  in  the  course  of  cooking,  though  the  flavor 
will  not  be  so  fine  as  when  some  sugar  is  used,  —  much 
or  little,  as  one's  taste  dictates." 


To  Make  and  Clarify  Syrup. 

When  it  is  desired  to  have  the  fruit  and  syrup  exceed- 
ingly clear,  it  is  necessary  to  clarify  the  syrup  with  the 
white  of  an  egg. 

Syrup  for  fruits  which  are  very"  juicy  should  be  rich, 
and  that  tor  fruits  which  are  rather  dry  and  require 
long  cooking,  should  be  rather  thin.  The  proportions 
of  a  rich  syrup  are  one  pint  of  sugar  to  half  a  pint  of 
water;  the  two  ingredients  to  be  boiled  together  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  A  light  syrup  is  made  of  equal 
quantities  of  sugar  and  water. 

Here  is  a  general  rule  for  making  and  clarifying  syrup : 
Put  two  quarts  of  sugar  and  one  of  water  in  the  preserv- 
ing-kettle. Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  until  they  are 
light,  but  not  until  they  are  dry,  and  stir  them  into  the 


830          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

sugar  and  water.  Place  the  kettle  on  the  fire,  and  heat 
the  contents  slowly,  stirring  often,  until  they  begin  to 
boil ;  then  draw  the  kettle  back  immediately,  and  after 
covering  it,  keep  it  on  the  back  of  the  stove  for  half  an 
hour.  The  liquid  should  be  kept  at  the  boiling-point, 
but  should  not  be  allowed  to  boil  rapidly.  At  the  end 
of  half  an  hour  remove  the  cover,  and  lift  the  thick  cake 
of  white  scum  which  will  be  found  on  the  surface  of  the 
liquid.  The  syrup  will  then  be  found  as  clear  as  crystal, 
and  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Should  the  syrup  be  allowed  to  boil  hard,  the  white  of 
the  egg  would  get  broken  into  small  particles,  in  which 
case  it  would  be  necessary  to  pour  the  syrup  through 
a  fine  strainer ;  but  it  would  not  be  perfectly  clear. 
Either  do  the  work  of  clarifying  carefully,  or  not  at 
all. 

All  fruits  are  greatly  improved  if  juice,  instead  of 
water,  be  used  with  sugar  to  make  the  syrup.  The  juice 
is  particularly  desirable  in  the  case  of  fruits  that  are  not 
very  acid  or  of  pronounced  flavor.  It  is  well,  also,  to 
use  the  juice  of  acid  fruit  in  preparing  syrup  for  a  rather 
sweet  fruit.  The  juice  of  currants,  barberries,  or  green 
grapes,  combined  with  sugar,  makes  an  excellent  syrup 
in  which  to  preserve  strawberries,  raspberries,  black- 
berries, apples,  and  pears. 

*  Pear  Preserve. 

Flemish  Beauties  or  Sheldons  are  very  nice  if  pre- 
served in  this  manner :  Pare  the  fruit,  and  drop  it  into 
cold  water,  to  prevent  it  from  becoming  discolored. 
When  all  the  fruit  is  pared,  weigh  it.  Put  the  parings 
into  a  preserving-kettle  or  some  other  kettle  over  which 
a  steamer  can  be  placed.  Add  to  the  parings  three  pints 
of  water  for  every  four  pounds  of  fruit.  When  the 
water  begins  to  boil,  put  on  the  steamer,  which  should 
contain  enough  pears  to  cover  the  bottom.  Watch  the 


PRESERVING.  831 


fruit,  and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  tender,  take  it  up,  and 
put  in  a  fresh  supply. 

When  all  the  pears  have  been  cooked,  take  off  the 
steamer  and  strain  the  liquor  from  the  parings.  To  each 
quart  add  one  pint  of  sugar.  Put  on  the  fire,  in  the  pre- 
serving-kettle, and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  skim  carefully. 
Now  add  the  pears,  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes. 
Put  the  fruit  in  glass  jars,  and  cover  with  hot  syrup. 
Close  the  jars  at  once.  A  small  piece  of  ginger  root  in 
each  jar  adds  flavor  to  the  fruit,  — say  a  piece  an  inch 
long. 

Pears  preserved  in  this  manner  are  very  nice  for  des- 
sert in  winter,  served  with  cake  and  cream. 

Mace*doine  Preserve. 

For  this  preserve  use  six  pounds  each  of  cantaloupe, 
pears,  and  peaches,  twelve  pounds  of  sugar,  two  quarts  of 
water,  and  six  lemons. 

Pare  the  lemons,  being  careful  not  to  leave  any  white 
skin  on  them,  and  cut  them  in  slices ;  then  quarter  the 
slices.  Pare  the  cantaloupe,  and  cut  it  in  small  thin 
pieces.  Now  put  the  sugar  and  water  in  the  preserving- 
kettle  and  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  liquid  begins  to  boil, 
skim  it  carefully.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  after  adding 
the  lemons,  cook  for  ten  minutes  more. 

Have  the  pears  pared  and  cut  in  eighths,  and  when  the 
lemon  has  been  cooked  for  ten  minutes,  add  the  pears 
and  cantaloupe,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Now 
add  the  peaches,  which  have  been  pared  and  cut  in 
eighths.  Cook  the  preserve  for  half  an  hour,  being 
careful  not  to  boil  it  so  rapidly  that  the  fruit  will  get 
broken. 

Heat  some  glass  jars  in  water,  and  after  filling  with 
hot  preserve,  screw  on  the  covers. 


832          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Strawberries  and  Raspberries  in  their 
Own  Juice. 

Here  is  a  good  rule  to  follow  in  preserving  small  fruits 
when  it  is  desirable  to  keep  .their  color  and  form.  It  is 
particularly  nice  for  raspberries  and  strawberries.  For 
twelve  quarts  of  berries  take  six  quarts  of  sugar.  Put 
three  quarts  of  fruit  into  the  preserving-kettle  with  one 
gill  of  water,  and  after  heating  very  slowly,  mash  thor- 
oughly. Turn  into  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  and  let  it 
drain  until  it  is  cool  enough  to  be  handled ;  then  press 
every  particle  of  juice  through  the  cloth.  Put  the  juice 
and  sugar  into  the  preserving-kettle,  and  heat  slowly  to 
the  boiling-point,  stirring  frequently.  When  the  juice 
boils,  add  the  remaining  nine  quarts  of  whole  berries,  and 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  After  the  fruit  begins  to  boil, 
the  liquid  should  simply  be  allowed  to  bubble,  and  should 
be  skimmed  frequently.  When  the  fruit  is  cooked,  put 
it  into  jars,  filling  the  remaining  space  with  the  juice. 
There  may  be  about  a  quart  of  juice  left  after  the  jars  are 
filled.  Save  it  for  use  in  the  winter  for  sherbets,  Bavarian 
creams,  pudding  sauces,  or  anything  else  for  which  fresh 
fruit  juice  would  be  used  if  it  could  be  had. 

Berries  prepared  by  the  foregoing  directions  will  keep 
their  shape,  color,  and  flavor,  and  resemble  the  French  and 
German  preserves. 

*  Raspberries  Preserved  in  Currant  Juice. 

*  J 

Use  twelve  quarts  of  raspberries,  three  quarts  of  cur- 
rants, and  three  quarts  of  sugar.  Free  the  currants  of 
leaves  and  stems,  and  put  them  into  the  preserving-kettle 
and  on  the  fire.  Cook  slowly  for  an  hour,  stirring  and 
mashing  frequently.  Spread  a  square  of  cheese-cloth  in 
a  colander,  and  place  the  colander  over  the  preserving- 
kettle  ;  then  pour  in  the  hot  fruit  and  juice,  and  squeeze 
as  much  juice  as  possible  from  the  currants  and  through 


PRESERVING.  833 


the  cloth.  Now  add  the  sugar  to  the  currant  juice,  and 
place  the  kettle  over  the  fire.  Stir  frequently  until  the 
sugar  is  melted. 

Have  the  raspberries  stripped  from  the  stems  and  freed 
of  leaves,  and  when  the  syrup  begins  to  boil,  put  the 
fruit  into  it.  Let  the  fruit  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Skim 
the  raspberries  from  the  syrup,  and  put  them  in  glass  jars 
that  have  been  placed  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  and  kept 
over  the  fire  until  the  water  boiled.  Keep  the  covers  hot 
in  another  pan  of  water. 

Now  fill  the  jars  with  hot  syrup,  and  put  on  the  covers 
immediately.  There  will  be  about  a  quart  of  syrup  left. 
Seal  it  in  a  jar ;  it  will  be  nice  to  use  in  making  sauces 
or  dishes  for  dessert  in  the  winter. 

*  Raspberries  Preserved  in  their  Own  Juice. 

Use  sixteen  quarts  of  raspberries  and  four  quarts  of 
sugar.  Do  the  same  as  with  raspberries  preserved  in  cur- 
rant juice,  only  substituting  four  quarts  of  raspberries 
for  three  quarts  of  currants  to  get  juice.  If  the  fruit  be 
desired  richer,  six  quarts  of  sugar  may  be  used. 

*  Raspberries  Preserved  without  Cooking. 

After  ridding  twelve  quarts  of  raspberries  of  stems 
and  leaves,  put  them  in  a  large  bowl  with  nine  pints  of 
granulated  sugar.  Mash  the  fruit  and  sugar  together, 
and  place  the  mixture  in  a  cool  place  for  three  or  four 
hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  mix  the  fruit  and  sugar 
very  thoroughly,  and  pack  in  jars.  Just  before  packing, 
however,  hold  each  jar  over  a  lighted  candle  for  half  a 
minute,  to  exhaust  the  air.  Screw  the  covers  on  care- 
fully. Wipe  the  jars,  and  place  them  in  a  cool,  dark 
place  in  the  cellar. 

Strawberries  and  blackberries  can  be  preserved  in  this 
manner. 

58 


834          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Preserved  Blackberries. 

Put  eight  quarts  of  blackberries  and  two  quarts  of 
sugar  in  a  preserving-kettle,  and  heat  slowly,  stirring 
often.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour  after  the  fruit  begins  to 
boil.  Put  in  small  jars,  and  seal  while  hot. 


*  Preserved  Pineapple. 

To  preserve  pineapple,  pare  it,  cut  it  into  thin  slices, 
free  it  of  the  core,  weigh  it,  and  put  it  into  a  bowl  with 
half  its  weight  of  sugar.  Let  it  stand  over  night,  and  in 
the  morning  put  it  on  the  stove  in  a  preserving-kettle. 
When  it  begins  to  boil,  skim  it.  Let  it  boil  for  a  minute  j 
then  put  it  into  jars,  and  seal  the  jars. 


*  Canned  Apples  and  Quinces, 

Use  one  peck  of  apples,  two  quarts  of  quinces,  and 
two  quarts  of  sugar.  Pare  the  quinces,  and  cut  out  the 
cores.  Put  the  cores  and  parings  into  'the  preserviDg- 
kettle  with  two  quarts  of  water,  and  boil  gently  for  an 
hour. 

Cut  the  quinces  into  eighths,  and  put  them  into  another 
kettle  containing  three  pints  of  boiling  water.  Simmer 
until  the  fruit  is  so  tender  that  a  straw  will  pierce  it. 
Lift  the  pieces  from  the  water  with  a  fork,  and  lay  them 
on  a  platter  to  drain.  Now  strain  the  water  from  the 
cores  and  parings  into  the  kettle  in  which  the  quinces 
were  stewed.  Add  the  sugar,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  skim. 

Wash  the  other  preserving-kettle,  and  pour  half  the 
syrup  into  it.  Now  put  one-quarter  of  the  pared,  cored, 
and  quartered  apples  into  each  kettle,  and  add,  also,  one- 
quarter  of  the  cooked  quinces  to  the  contents  of  each 
kettle.  Simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Fill  heated 
jars  with  this  fruit,  and  seal  them  at  once. 


PRESERVING.  886 


Cook  the  remainder  of  the  fruit  in  the  syrup  remain- 
ing in  the  kettle,  and  seal  it  in  cans  as  before. 

This  is  a  delicate  preserve  that  may  be  served  with 
cake  for  dessert  when  fruit  is  scarce. 

*  Canned  Apples. 

Only  fine-flavored  tart  apples  should  be  canned.  Ap- 
ples, like  all  canned  fruits,  may  be  put  up  without  sugar  ; 
but  the  flavor  is  finer  when  sugar  is  added  to  them  dur- 
ing the  cooking. 

Pare,  quarter,  and  core  one  peck  of  tart  apples.  Put 
them  into  a  preserving-kettle  with  one  quart  of  water 
and  after  covering  the  kettle,  put  it  on  the  fire.  As 
soon  as  the  water  begins  to  boil,  draw  the  kettle  back 
where  the  fruit  will  cook  slowly  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  Stir  frequently.  Add  one  quart  of  sugar,  and 
cook  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Have  at  hand  some  hot 
preserving-jars,  and  after  filling  them,  seal  immediately. 
It  is  worth  the  while  to  can  a  bushel  of  apples,  or  more. 

*  Canned  Blackberries. 

To  can  blackberries,  put  them  in  the  preserving-kettle 
with  one  pint  of  sugar  to  every  two  quarts  of  berries. 
Heat  slowly,  and  when  boiling  hot,  pour  into  jars,  and 
seal  at  once. 

Less  sugar  may  be  used  if  the  fruit  be  no\,  liked 
sweet. 

*  Peach  Marmalade. 

Put  the  peaches  in  a  wire  basket,  and  plunge  them 
into  boiling  water  for  two  minutes.  On  taking  them 
from  the  water,  rub  off  the  skin  with  a  coarse  towel ; 
then  cut  the  peaches  in  halves,  and  take  out  the  stones. 
Measure  the  fruit,  and  put  it  in  the  preserving-kettle.  To 
six  quarts  of  peaches  put  one  quart  of  water.  Cover,  and 
cook  for  an  hour ;  then  add  three  quarts  of  granulated 


836          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

sugar,  and  cook  for  an  hour  longer,  stirring  frequently. 
The  marmalade  should  be  thick,  smooth,  and  rather  glossy 
at  the  end  of  that  time.  Put  it  up  in  small  jars  or  tum- 
blers. When  cold,  cover  with  round  pieces  of  stiff  white 
paper  that  have  been  dipped  in  brandy,  and  then  paste 
larger  and  thicker  covers  over  the  first,  unless  there  be 
metal  or  glass  covers  for  the  jars  or  tumblers. 

*  Raspberry  Jam. 

Pick  eight  quarts  of  the  fruit  free  of  leaves,  stones, 
and  imperfect  berries.  Put  it  in  the  preserving-kettle, 
and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour ;  then  break  the  fruit 
with  a  spoon,  and  press  it  against  the  side  of  the  kettle. 
Dip  out  one  pint  and  a  half  of  the  juice.  Now  add  five 
pints  of  granulated  sugar  to  the  fruit,  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour  longer.  Put  in  small  jars,  and  seal.  Keep  in  a 
cool,  dry  place. 

Put  one  pint  of  sugar  with  the  juice,  and  boil  for  ten 
minutes  ;  then  pour  into  a  hot  jar,  and  seal.  It  may  be 
used  in  the  winter  for  flavoring  dishes  for  dessert.  Or 
the  juice  may  be  used  in  making  jelly. 

*  Blackberry  Jam. 

Put  eight  quarts  of  berries  in  a  preserving-kettle,  and 
cook  slowly  for  two  hours ;  then  add  three  quarts  of 
sugar,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour  longer.  Put  in  small 
jars,  and  seal  while  hot. 

Brandied  Fruit. 

This  is  an  easy  way  to  preserve  fruit  and  retain  its 
natural  flavor.  Only  choice  fruit  should  be  used.  Put 
into  a  two-gallon  jar  a  quart  of  brandy  and  three  pounds 
of  granulated  sugar.  Then,  as  various  kinds  of  fruit 
may  be  obtained,  add  a  pound  of  sugar  with  each  pound 
of  fruit.  Begin  with  strawberries,  and  from  time  to 
time  put  in  large,  rich  cherries  from  which  the  stones 


PRESERVING.  837 


have  been  removed,  bananas,  apricots,  raspberries,  pine- 
apples, peaches,  etc.  Keep  in  a  cool  place,  and  stir 
every  few  days  until  the  last  of  the  fruit  has  been 
added. 

The  quantity  of  brandy  and  sugar  mentioned  at  the 
outset  will  bear  seven  or  eight  pounds  each  of  fruit  and 
new  sugar.  When  all  the  fruit  has  been  pxit  in,  cover 
the  jar  with  a  paper  wet  in  brandy,  and  tie  a  second 
paper  over  the  first ;  or  the  fruit  may  be  transferred  to 
a  number  of  small  jars.  Fruits  like  pineapples,  peaches, 
etc.,  should  be  pared  and  cut  before  they  are  put  into 
the  large  jar. 

Braiidied  fruit  is  nice  to  serve  with  ice-cream  or  to 
freeze  with  it.  Half  a  pint  is  enough  with  a  gallon  of 
cream,  and  it  should  be  added,  in  small  pieces,  when  the 
cream  is  half  frozen. 

JELLIES. 

In  making  jellies  it  is  well  always  to  remember  a  few 
facts  in  particular.  The  freer  the  fruit  is  of  stems  and 
imperfect  fruit,  the  clearer  and  brighter  will  be  the 
jelly.  For  example,  jelly  made  of  currants  left  on  the 
stems  will  be  found  several  shades  darker  than  that 
made  of  stemmed  currants  from  the  same  lot.  Again, 
when  the  fruit  juice  is  boiled  without  any  sugar,  and  the 
hot  sugar  is  simply  added  and  the  mixture  is  stirred 
only  long  enough  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  the  jelly  will  be 
many  shades  brighter  than  when  the  juice  and  sugar  are 
cooked  together. 

*  Currant  Jelly. 

Free  the  currants  from  leaves  and  stems,  and  put 
them  in  the  preserving-kettle.  Cover,  and  heat  slowly, 
stirring  frequently.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  boil,  mash 
it  with  a  vegetable-masher  or  with  the  back  of  a  large 
.wooden  spoon.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour  from  the  time 
the  fruit  begins  to  boil. 


838          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Put  a  puree-sieve  or  a  colander  over  an  earthen  bowl, 
and  spread  in  the  sieve  or  colander  a  large  square  of 
cheese-cloth.  Dip  up  the  hot  currants,  and  deposit  them 
in  the  sieve ;  then  press  out  as  much  of  the  juice  as 
possible.  Let  the  fruit  stand  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
to  drain.  Meanwhile  dip  a  white  flannel  jelly-bag  into 
boiling  water,  and  fasten  it  on  a  jelly -frame,  so  that  it 
shall  hang  over  a  large  bowl.  If  there  be  no  such  frame 
in  the  house,  fasten  the  bag  to  two  chairs.  The  bag  should 
be  cone-shaped,  and  have  four  strong  tapes  sewed  on  the 
edge,  with  which  to  tie  it  to  the  frame  or  chair. 

Pour  the  strained  currant  juice  into  the  bag,  and  let  it 
drip  into  the  bowl ;  then  measure  it,  and  pour  it  into  a 
clean  preserving-kettle.  Place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  skim  it  carefully.  Boil  for  twenty 
minutes,  skimming  frequently. 

As  soon  as  the  fruit  juice  is  put  on  the  fire,  put  into  a 
milk-pan  as  many  pints  of  granulated  sugar  as  there  are 
pints  of  juice,  and  place  the  pan  in  the  oven.  Stir  the 
sugar  frequently,  and  be  careful  that  it  does  not  become 
brown.  It  should  be  hot  by  the  time  the  fruit  juice  has 
been  boiling  for  twenty  minutes. 

When  the  juice  has  boiled  sufficiently,  draw  the  kettle 
to  one  side  of  the  range  and  add  the  hot  sugar.  Stir 
until  the  sugar  is  wholly  dissolved.  Have  a  number  of 
jelly-tumblers  in  a  large  dripping-pan  containing  about 
an  inch  of  hot  water.  Pour  the  hot  jelly  into  a  warm 
pitcher,  and  fill  the  tumblers  from  the  pitcher,  being  care- 
ful to  fill  to  the  top.  Set  away  in  a  cool  place  for  two 
or  three  days;  then  cover  with  round  pieces  of  white 
note-paper  that  have  been  dipped  in  brandy.  Now  put 
on  the  tin  or  glass  covers,  and  set  away. 

The  practice  of  straining  the  fruit  juice  the  second 
time  through  a  flannel  bag  is  not  common;  but  the 
process  is  worth  trying,  as  it  gives  a  very  clear  jelly. 


PRESERVING.  839 


*  Green  Grape  Jelly. 

The  grapes  should  be  picked  when  about  to  turn,  and 
wild  fruit  is  best.  Free  half  a  bushel  from  stems  and 
leaves,  and  put  them  into  a  large  preserving-kettle. 
Cover,  and  place  where  they  will  heat  slowly.  Stir 
occasionally,  and  when  they  begin  to  soften,  mash  them 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon.  Cook  until  the  whole  mass 
boils,  and  then  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

Put  a  large  piece  of  cheese-cloth  in  a  sieve,  and  after 
putting  the  sieve  over  a  large  bowl,  dip  the  hot  grapes 
and  juice  from  the  kettle,  and  deposit  them  in  the  sieve. 
Let  them  stand  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  take  up 
the  cloth,  holding  it  firmly  at  the  ends,  and  move  the 
mass  back  and  forth  by  raising  the  cloth  first  at  one 
end  and  then  at  the  other.  The  juice  will  run  through 
the  cloth  into  the  bowl  in  about  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes. When  as  much  as  possible  has  been  obtained, 
put  the  cloth  into  the  sieve  again,  and  place  the 
sieve  over  another  bowl.  Wash  the  preserving-kettle 
carefully,  and  measure  the  grape  juice  into  it.  Set 
upon  the  stove,  and  as  soon  as  the  liquid  begins  to 
boil,  skim  it.  Boil  rapidly  for  twenty  minutes,  skim- 
ming frequently. 

When  the  juice  is  first  set  upon  the  stove,  put  into  a 
pan  (a  milk-pan  is  best)  as  many  pints  of  granulated 
sugar  as  there  are  pints  of  juice,  and  place  in  the  oven. 
Stir  often,  to  prevent  coloring.  When  the  juice  has 
boiled  hard  for  twenty  minutes,  add  the  hot  sugar,  and 
stir  until  it  is  dissolved  ;  then  remove  the  jelly  from 
the  stove.  Have  ready  some  tumblers,  standing  in  a 
dripping-pan  containing  about  half  an  inch  of  warm 
water.  Dip  up  the  jelly  with  a  cup,  and  fill  these  tum- 
blers. Let  the  jelly  cool,  and  then  set  away  in  a  cool, 
dry  place.  After  three  or  four  days  cover  the  tumblers 
with  round  pieces  of  white  note-paper  which  have  been 
dipped  in  brandy ;  then  put  on  the  tin  or  glass  covers. 


840  MISS  PAKLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

This  jelly  will  have  a  light  color,  and  be  a  pleasant  sub- 
stitute for  currant  jelly. 

Kipe  grape,  blackberry,  and  raspberry  jellies  all  are 
made  in  the  same  manner. 


*  Raspberry  Jelly. 

Use  fresh  and  dry  fruit.  Free  it  from  stems  and 
leaves,  and  put  it  in  a  preserving-kettle.  Heat  slowly, 
and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Press  out  the  juice,  strain  it, 
and  proceed  as  directed  for  currant  jelly,  on  the  preced- 
ing page. 

Blackberry  jelly  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

*  Apple  Jelly. 

Wash,  and  cut  into  small  pieces  enough  rich-flavored 
tart  apples  to  make  three  quarts,  and  putting  them  into 
a  preserving-kettle  with  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  boil 
gently  until  they  can  be  mashed  smooth.  Put  a  piece 
of  cheese-cloth  in  a  sieve,  and  after  placing  the  sieve 
over  a  large  bowl,  pour  the  apple  into  it,  and  treat  in  the 
same  way  that  green  grapes  are  treated,  save  that  a  little 
more  pressure  should  be  used.  When  all  the  juice  has 
passed  through,  strain  it  through  a  clean  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth. Now  proceed  the  same  as  when  making  grape 
jelly,  only  boiling  the  mixture,  however,  for  five  minutes 
after  the  sugar  has  been  added. 

Quince,  crab-apple,  peach,  and  barberry  jellies  all  are 
made  in  the  same  manner. 

The  pulp  of  fruit  from  which  jellies  have  been  made 
need  not  be  wasted.  Rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it 
to  an  equal  volume  of  fresh  fruit  that  has  been  boiled 
to  a  pulp  and  sifted.  Put  this  mixture  into  a  kettle  with 
a  pint  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  pulp,  and  after  heating 
slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  cook  for  twenty  minutes. 
When  fruit  is  plentiful  and  cheap  it  hardly  pays  to  use 


PRESERVING.  841 


the  pulp  of  that  from  which  jelly  has  been  made,  because 
the  juice  contains  the  greater  part  of  the  fine  flavor. 

It  is  wise  always  to  use,  in  preserving,  the  best  of 
sugar  and  fruit. 

Wash,  wipe,  pare,  and  core  one  peck  of  tart  apples. 
Put  the  cores  and  parings  into  a  preserving-kettle,  with 
three  pints  of  water,  and  simmer  for  two  hours.  Put 
the  apples  and  half  a  pint  of  lemon  juice  into  another 
kettle,  and  pour  on  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  the 
fruit.  Simmer  for  two  hours. 

Strain  the  liquid  from  the  two  kettles  through  a  piece 
of  cheese-cloth  and  into  a  bowl.  Give  the  fruit  ample 
time  to  drain,  but  do  not  squeeze  it.  Wash  one  of  the 
kettles,  and  measure  the  strained  juice  into  it.  To  each 
pint  add  a  pint  of  granulated  sugar.  Let  the  liquid  boil 
for  twenty-five  minutes,  skimming  frequently.  Fill  the 
jelly-tumblers  to  the  brim,  and  when  the  jelly  is  cold 
and  firm,  cover  the  glasses. 

*  Raspberry  Syrup. 

Use  two  quarts  of  sugar,  three  quarts  of  currants,  four 
quarts  of  raspberries,  and  one  quart  of  water. 

Free  the  fruit  from  stems  and  leaves,  and  put  it  in  a 
preserving-kettle.  Heat  slowly,  and  mash  with  a  wooden 
vegetable-masher.  Cook  for  half  an  hour. 

Put  the  sugar  and  boiling  water  in  another  preserving- 
kettle,  and  boil  gently  during  the  last  ten  minutes  that 
the  fruit  is  cooking,  skimming  carefully.  Now  add  the 
hot  crushed  fruit,  and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
longer.  Strain  and  cool.  When  cold,  put  in  small  bot- 
tles, corking  them  tightly,  and  putting  them  away  in  a 
cool,  dark  place. 

An  excellent  drink  can  be  made  in  hot  weather  by 
putting  three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of  this  syrup  in  a 
glass  of  ice-water. 


842          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


*  Raspberry  Vinegar. 

Use  one  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar,  or  cider  vinegar, 
four  quarts  of  raspberries,  and  three  pints  of  sugar.  In 
the  morning  put  two  quarts  of  the  raspberries  into  a 
large  stone-china  bowl,  and  pour  the  vinegar  over  them. 
Do  not  mash  the  berries.  Cover  the  bowl,  and  set  it 
away  in  a  cool  place.  The  next  morning  strain  off  the 
liquid,  and  turn  the  berries  out  of  the  bowl.  Put  the 
other  two  quarts  of  berries  into  the  bowl,  and  pour 
the  liquid  over  them.  Let  them  stand  until  the  next 
day,  when  the  liquid  must  be  strained  into  a  preserving- 
kettle.  Add  the  sugar,  and  place  the  kettle  on  the  fire. 
When  the  liquid  begins  to  boil,  skim  it  carefully,  and  boil 
for  twenty  minutes ;  then  cool  it,  and  put  it  into  small 
bottles,  corking  them  tightly.  This  makes  a  refreshing 
drink  in  hot  weather,  and  is  good  in  sickness. 

The  berries  from  which  the  liquid  was  strained  may 
be  put  in  a  preserving-kettle  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
sugar  and  one  gill  of  water,  and  be  cooked  slowly  for  an 
hour.  They  should  then  be  put  in  tumblers,  and  will  be 
nice  to  eat  with  roast  meats. 

*  Blackberry  Cordial. 

Put  the  blackberries  in  the  preserving-kettle,  and  heat 
slowly  until  they  begin  to  boil.  Mash  the  berries,  and 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour;  then  strain  the  juice 
through  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth.  Measure  it,  and  put 
it  into  a  clean  preserving-kettle.  To  each  quart  add  half 
a  pint  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  and  half  a 
nutmeg,  grated.  Boil  for  half  an  hour.  Let  the  liquid 
cool,  and  add  a  gill  of  brandy.  Bottle,  and  put  away  in 
a  cool  place. 

This  is  excellent  for  bowel  complaints.  If  one  does 
not  wish  to  use  brandy,  it  may  be  omitted.  Every  one 


PRESERVING.  843 


should  prepare  at  least  a  quart  of  this  cordial  when  the 
berries  are  in  their  prime. 

*  Pickled  Blackberries. 

Put  a  quart  of  sugar,  a  pint  of  vinegar,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  cinnamon,  allspice,  and  cloves  into 
the  preserving-kettle,  and  place  over  a  moderate  fire. 
When  the  mixture  boils,  add  four  quarts  of  blackberries, 
and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer ;  then  turn  into 
pint  jars.  There  will  be  enough  to  fill  six. 

*  Spiced  Currants. 

Use  seven  pounds  of  red  currants,  half  a  pint  of  strong 
vinegar,  half  a  pint  of  currant  juice,  three  pints  and  a 
half  of  granulated  sugar,  two  ounces  of  stick  cinnamon, 
and  one  ounce  of  whole  cloves. 

Tie  the  spice  in  a  bag,  and  put  it  in  the  preserving- 
Kettle  with  the  sugar,  vinegar,  and  currant  juice.  Place 
on  the  fire,  and  when  the  mixture  boils,  add  the  currants. 
Boil  until  the  currant  mixture  will  jelly.  It  will  take 
from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  for  this. 

.*  Spiced   Grapes. 

PMpare  grapes  the  same  as  currants.     These  apioed 

frui*  are  nice  to  serve  with  meats. 

y 

*To  Can  Tomatoes  Whole. 

Select  large,  smooth  tomatoes.  Wash  them,  and  put 
them  in  a  deep  pan ;  then  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
let  them  stand  for  five  minutes.  This  will  loosen  the 
skins.  Pour  off  the  water,  and  pare  the  tomatoes.  Now 
lay  them- in  a  deep  dish,  and  put  them  into  a  moderately 
hot  oven.  Cook  for  thirty  minutes,  being  careful  that 
they  do  not  get  browned. 

When  these  tomatoes  are  put  into  the  oven,  put  a 
stew-pan  of  sliced  tomatoes  on  the  fire.  Stir  frequently, 


844          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

to  prevent  burning.  When  they  have  been  stewed  for 
twenty  minutes,  rub  them  through  a  fine  strainer ;  then 
return  to  the  stew-pan. 

Place  some  self-sealing  cans  on  the  fire  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water,  and  heat  the  water  gradually  to  the 
boiling-point. 

When  the  whole  tomatoes  are  done,  take  the  dish 
from  the  oven,  and  transfer  the  tomatoes  to  the  hot 
jars,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  vegetables.  Pour 
the  juice  into  the  jars,  and  fill  up  with  the  strained 
tomatoes,  which  must  be  boiling  hot.  Have  the  jars  so 
full  that  a  little  juice  runs  over.  Now  put  on  the  elastic 
bands  and  the  covers.  Tighten  the  covers  as  much  as 
possible,  and  when  the  jars  become  cold,  tighten  the 
covers  again.  Place  in  a  dark,  cool  place.  In  the  winter 
these  tomatoes  can  be  used  for  salads. 

For  a  peck  of  the  whole  tomatoes,  use  two  quarts  of 
sliced  tomatoes  for  the  juice  to  fill  the  cans.  In  some 
cases  this  will  prove  too  much;  but  what  is  left  over 
may  be  used  for  soup,  sauce,  or  ketchup. 

*  Canned  Tomatoes. 

Pare  the  tomatoes  as  directed  when  preserving  whole 
tomatoes;  then  slice  them,  and  put  them  in  a  preserv- 
ing-kettle. Heat  slowly,  stirring  frequently  to  prevent 
burning.  Let  them  boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes  from 
the  time  they  actually  begin  to  boil.  Have  the  jars 
heated  in  water,  and  fill  and  seal  as  before. 

*  Canned  Corn  and  Tomatoes. 

Use  two  dozen  ears  of  tender  green  corn,  half  a  peck 
of  ripe  tomatoes,  one  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  two 
level  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
water. 

Cover  the  tomatoes  with  boiling  water  for  a  few  min- 
utes ;  then  remove  the  skins,  and  cut  the  tomatoes  in 


PRESERVING.  845 


thin  slices.  Draw  the  husks  and  silk  from  the  corn. 
With  a  sharp  knife  cut  through  the  centre  of  each  row 
of  grains,  and  when  all  the  grains  have  been  treated  in 
this  manner,  cut  them  off,  being  careful  to  remove  every 
particle  of  the  milky  substance.  When  all  the  cobs  have 
been  treated  in  this  way,  put  the  water  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  then  add  the  corn.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour  ;  then 
add  the  tomatoes  and  seasoning,  and  cook  slowly  until 
the  contents  of  the  stew-pan  begin  to  boil.  Now  boil 
for  ten  minutes. 

When  the  tomatoes  are  added  to  the  corn,  put  glass 
jars  in  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  place  them  on  the 
fire  where  the  water  will  gradually  get  heated  to  the 
boiling-point. 

When  the  corn  and  tomatoes  have  been  boiling  for 
ten  minutes,  pour  the  water  from  two  of  the  jars,  and 
fill  with  the  boiling  mixture.  Put  on  immediately  the 
rubber  bands  and  the  covers,  which  should  be  screwed 
on  as  tight  as  possible.  Continue  in  this  way  until 
all  the  jars  are  filled.  When  the  jars  are  almost  cold, 
tighten  the  covers  again. 

*  Succotash. 

Soak  six  quarts  of  Lima  beans  in  cold  water  for  two 
hours,  and  then  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  boiling 
water,  and  boil  them  for  an  hour,  if  they  be  young  and 
tender,  or  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  if  they  be  at  all  old. 
Prepare  and#cook  four  dozen  ears  of  corn  in  the  manner 
directed  in  the  preceding  receipt.  When  the  beans  are 
tender,  drain  off  the  water,  and  add  them  to  the  corn. 
Now  add  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  can  in  the 
same  way  corn  and  tomatoes  are  canned. 

*  Okra  and  Tomatoes. 

Use  half  a  peck  of  tomatoes  and  one  peck  of  green, 
crisp  okra.  Pare  and  slice  the  tomatoes.  Wash  the 


846          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION 

okra,  and  cut  off  the  stem  ends ;  then  cut  in  thin  slices. 
Put  both  of  the  vegetables  together  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
simmer  for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  Can 
the  same  as  corn  and  tomatoes. 

This  will  be  found  nice  as  a  vegetable,  or  to  use  in 
soup  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

' 

*  Cucumber  Pickles. 

Use  small  cucumbers  only.  Wash  them  carefully,  to 
free  them  of  particles  of  earth  ;  then  lay  them  in  a  large 
stone  jar  or  bowl.  For  eight  quarts  of  cucumbers  put 
into  a  stew-pan  a  gallon  of  boiling  water  and  a  pint  of 
salt.  When  the  water  begins  to  boil,  skim  it,  and  then 
pour  it  over  the  cucumbers.  Do  this  in  the  morning. 
In  the  afternoon  pour  the  brine  from  the  cucumbers  into 
the  saucepan,  and  after  heating  it  to  the  boiling-point, 
pour  it  over  the  cucumbers  for  the  second  time,  and 
let  them  stand  in  the  brine  all  night.  In  the  morning 
scald  the  brine  for  the  third  time,  and  pour  it  over  the 
cucumbers,  letting  them  stand  in  it  for  six  hours.  Now 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  alum  to  one  gallon  of  boiling 
water,  and  after  turning  off  the  brine,  pour  this  alum 
water  over  the  cucumbers.  Let  them  stand  for  six 
hours ;  then  scald  the  water,  and  pour  it  over  them 
again. 

The  next  morning  drain  the  cucumbers.  Now  put  one 
gallon  of  vinegar  in  the  preserving-kettle  with  four  bell 
peppers,  three  sticks  of  cinnamon,  one  table-spoonful  of 
whole  allspice,  and  half  a  table-spoonful  of  whole  cloves. 
Place  on  the  fire,  and  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point. 

Put  one  quart  of  vinegar  on  the  fire  in  another  kettle, 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  drop  eight  or  ten  cucumbers 
into  it.  Cook  them  for  eight  minutes,  and  on  taking 
them  out,  lay  them  in  a  stone  jar.  Continue  scalding 
the  cucumbers  in  this  way  until  they  are  all  done  ;  then 
pour  the  hot,  spiced  vinegar  over  them.  Cover  closely, 


PRESERVING.  847 


and  when  they  are  cold,  set  them  away  in  a  cool,  dark 
place. 
The  spice  may  be  omitted  if  not  liked. 

*  Combination  Pickle. 

This  is  easily  and  quickly  made,  no  cooking  being 
required.  Use  three  quarts  of  ripe  tomatoes,  pared  and 
chopped  fine,  half  a  pint  of  grated  horse-radish,  one  pint 
of  celery,  chopped  fine,  half  a  cupful  of  chopped  onion, 
eight  table-spoonfuls  of  mustard-seed,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  chopped  red  peppers,  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
eight  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a 
level  teaspoonful  each  of  clove  and  mace,  and  one  quart 
of  vinegar. 

Mix  all  these  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  then  pack 
the  pickle  in  a  stone  jar.  It  will  be  ready  for  use  in  a 
few  days,  and  will  keep  for  months  in  a  cool  place, 

*  Chow-chow. 

For  two  quarts  of  this  pickle  use  one  good-sized  head 
of  cauliflower  (one  weighing  about  three  pounds),  eight 
small  green  peppers,  ten  small  cucumbers,  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  long,  one  pint  of  pickling  onions  of  the  small- 
est size  (they  should  not  be  larger  than  a  cherry),  one 
pint  of  salt,  one  quart  of  vinegar,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  turn  eric,  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  one 
gill  of  water. 

Peel  the  onions,  and  cook  them  in  boiling  water  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  put 
them  into  a  bowl.  Break  the  cauliflower  into  small 
branches,  and  wash  in  cold  water.  Put  the  peppers, 
cucumbers,  and  cauliflower  into  a  large  bowl.  Put  the 
salt  into  a  stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Boil  for  ten  minutes.  Skim  this  brine,  and  pour  a  part 
on  the  vegetables  and  a  part  on  the  onions.  Let  these 


848          MISS   PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

ingredients  stand  in  a  cold  place  for  twenty-four  hours. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  pour  off  the  brine,  and  put  the 
vegetables  into  a  preserving-kettle.  Mix  the  mustard, 
tumeric,  and  cayenne  with  the  water,  and  add  to  the 
vegetables.  Now  add  the  vinegar,  and  place  the  kettle 
on  the  fire.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  sim- 
mer for  one  hour.  Put  the  pickle  into  hot  jars,  and  seal. 


*  Albany  Chow-chow. 

The  materials  are  :  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  half  a 
peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  one  dozen  of  small  white  onions, ' 
one  dozen  green  "bull-nosed"  peppers,  four  red  bull- 
nosed  peppers,  one  peck  of  chopped  white  cabbage,  one 
pint  of  salt,  one  quart  of  granulated  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
grated  horse-radish,  one  table-spoonful  of  white  pepper, 
one  table-spoonful  of  powdered  mace,  one  table-spoonful 
of  powdered  mustard,  half  a  pint  of  Dutch  mustard,  one 
ounce  of  white  mustard  seed,  one  ounce  of  celery  seed, 
and  cold  vinegar  enough  to  cover  the  whole  mass. 

Chop  fine  the  tomatoes,  onions,  and  peppers.  Mix  the 
chopped  cabbage  and  salt  with  these.  Make  a  large  bag 
of  coarse  cotton  cloth.  Put  this  mixture  into  it,  and  lay 
it  in  a  press.  If  there  be  no  press  at  hand,  one  may  be 
extemporized  by  laying  slats  across  a  keg,  placing  the 
bag  on  these  and  then  putting  a  heavy  plank  with 
weights  on  the  bag.  This  presses  out  the  strong  rank 
juices  of  the  vegetables.  Keep  them  in  the  press  for 
twenty-four  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  turn  the 
vegetables  from  the  bag  into  a  bowl,  and  add  the  other 
ingredients.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  add  enough  cold  vine- 
gar to  cover  the  mixture.  Pack  in  wide-mouthed  bottles 
or  self-sealing  jars. 

This  chow-chow  is  not  to  be  cooke^  It  will  keep  all 
winter. 


PRESERVING.  849 


*  Chow-chow  of  Ripe  Cucumbers  and  Onions. 

Use  four  quarts  of  ripe  cucumbers,  peeled,  seeded,  and 
chopped  fine,  two  quarts  of  white  onions,  chopped  fine, 
half  a  pint  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  white  mustard  seed, 
two  green  peppers  and  one  red  pepper,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  black  pepper,  and  enough  vinegar  to  cover  the 
mixture. 

Mix  the  chopped  onion  and  cucumbers  with  the  salt, 
and  put  in  the  press  for  twenty-four  hours.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  put  the  vegetables  in  a  bowl,  and  add  the 
dry  ingredients.  Mix  well,  and  then  add  the  vinegar. 
Put  the  chow-chow  in  jars,  and  place  a  few  nasturtium 
leaves  and  a  few  pieces  of  horse-radish  root  in  the  mouth 
of  the  jar.  They  flavor  the  chow-chow,  and  help  to  keep 
it  fresh. 

*  India  Chutney. 

The  proportions  are :  two  quarts  of  pared,  cored,  and 
sliced  tart  apples,  the  same  quantity  of  green  tomatoes, 
chopped  fine,  one  pound  of  stoned  raisins,  chopped  fine, 
three  cloves  of  garlic,  one  shallot,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  lemon  juice,  one  pint  and  a  half 
of  vinegar,  one  gill  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  powdered  ginger. 

Grate  the  garlic  and  shallot.  Put  all  the  ingredients 
into  a  large  stone  jar,  and  let  them  stand  over  night.  In 
the  morning  place  the  jar  on  the  fire  in  a  kettle  of  cold 
water.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  boil  for  six 
hours,  stirring  occasionally.  Heat  pint  preserving-jars, 
and  after  filling  them,  screw  on  the  covers  carefully 
This  pickle  will  keep  for  years.  g^ 

ii»'h: 

*  American  Chutney. 

Use  half  a  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  four  green  peppers, 
two  large  onions,  one  gill  of  salt,  one  gill  of  grated  horse- 
radish, half  a  pint  of  lemon  juice,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 


850  MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

vinegar,  one  pint  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground 
clove,  and  one  table-spoonful  each  of  ground  cinnamon 
and  allspice. 

Chop  the  tomatoes,  and  let  them  drain  through  a  col- 
ander for  one  hour.  Chop  the  peppers  very  fine.  Now 
put  the  tomatoes  and  other  ingredients  into  a  preserving- 
kettle,  and  place  on  the  fire.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling- 
point,  and  cook  for  an  hour,  stirring  frequently ;  then 
pour  into  pint  jars,  and  seal. 

*  Green  Tomato  Soyt 

The  materials  required  are :  one  peck  of  green  toma- 
toes, one  quart  of  sliced  onions,  one  pint  of  salt,  half  a 
pound  of  mustard  seed,  half  a  cupful  of  ground  mustard, 
one  dozen  pepper-corns,  one  dozen  whole  allspice,  and 
one  quart  of  vinegar. 

Wash  the  tomatoes,  and  cut  off  the  stems  ;  then  chop 
fine.  Mix  the  salt  with  them,  and  after  covering  the 
mixture,  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  turn  it  into  a  colander,  and  drain 
well.  Now  put  this  mixture  into  the  preserving-kettle 
with  the  other  ingredients,  —  first,  however,  mixing  the 
ground  mustard  with  one  cupful  of  cold  water.  Cook 
slowly,  stirring  frequently,  for  three  hours.  Pour  the 
soy  into  pint  jars,  and  seal  carefully.  When  cold,  put 
in  a  dark,  cool  place. 

This  pickle  will  keep  for  several  months  without  being 
sealed. 

*  Tomato  Ketchup. 

For  five  quarts  of  ketchup  use  one  generous  peck  of 
ripe  tomatoes,  one  quart  of  strong  vinegar,  one  pint  of 
sugar,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful 
of  whole  allspice,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one 
table-spoonful  of  whole  cloves,  one  table-spoonful  of 
mustard  seed,  two  onions,  one  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  two  sticks  of  cinnamon. 


PRESERVING.  851 


Wash  the  tomatoes ;  then  cut  them  into  small  pieces, 
and  put  them  in  the  preserving-kettle.  Pare  and  slice 
the  onions,  and  add  them  to  the  tomatoes.  Place  on  the 
fire,  and  cook  slowly  for  one  hour.  Now  rub  the  cooked 
vegetables  through  a  sieve,  and  return  to  the  preserving- 
kettle.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  after  adding  the  other 
ingredients,  cook  for  four  hours,  stirring  frequently ;  then 
strain.  Have  wide-mouthed  bottles  heated  in  water,  and 
after  filling  them  with  the  ketchup,  cork  them  tightly, 
and  seal. 

*  Tomato  Ketchup. 

Use  one  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  one  pint  of  vinegar, 
half  a  cupful  of  salt,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  clove,  one 
ounce  of  ground  allspice,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper. 

Wash  the  tomatoes,  and  cut  them  in  slices.  Put  them 
on  the  fire  in  the  preserving-kettle,  and  simmer  for  half 
an  hour;  then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  strained 
tomato  into  the  kettle,  and  add  the  other  ingredients. 
Boil  gently. for  eight  hours,  stirring  often.  Bottle  while 
hot. 


852          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


FOOD   FOR  THE   SICK. 

No  attempt  will  be  made  in  this  chapter  to  cover 
the  whole  ground  of  food  for  the  sick,  as  that  alone 
would  require  a  small  volume.  The  dishes  that  will  be 
given  are  such  as  every  woman  should  know  how  to 
make  well  and  serve  daintily.  Exact  quantities,  time, 
and  method  will  be  stated.  There  is  no  reason  why  any 
woman  should  be  unable  to  prepare  any  one  of  these 
dishes  successfully.  All  through  the  book  will  be  found 
receipts  for  dishes  that  a  delicate  invalid  can  eat  with 
pleasure  and  safety..  There  will  be  no  danger  in  par- 
taking of  nearly  all  the  soups,  the  plain  vegetables  if 
carefully  cooked,  roast,  boiled,  and  broiled  meats,  boiled 
and  broiled  fish,  all  kinds  of  bread  if  stale  or  toasted, 
cooked  fruits,  simple  puddings  into  which  no  fat  enters, 
jellies,  creams,  and  other  light  desserts. 

Never  give  re-cooked  meats,  fish,  or  vegetables  to  an 
invalid,  and  cook  only  small  quantities  of  food  for  him. 
Simplicity,  variety,  and  healthfulness  are  the  things  to 
be  considered  in  preparing  food  for  the  sick.  What  is 
good  for  one  person  frequently  is  injurious  to  another. 
One  must  not  become  impatient  or  discouraged  because 
the  invalid  is  changeable  in  his  tastes. 

Milk  is  now  given  in  almost  all  kinds  of  illness.  In 
cases  where  pure  milk  does  not  agree  with  a  patient 
a  table-spoonful  of  lime-water  is  sometimes  added  to  a 
glass  of  milk;  or  a  little  soda-water  may  be  added  to 
the  milk  just  as  the  patient  is  about  to  take  it.  In  mak- 
ing tea,  coffee,  or  chocolate  for  the  sick,  be  careful  to 
serve  it  aa  gpon  as  made. 


FOOD  FOR   THE   SICK.  853 

The  eye  as  well  as  the  palate  of  the  patient  is  to  be 
considered.  The  tray  always  should  be  covered  with  a 
fresh  napkin ;  the  china,  glass,  and  silver  should  be  the 
daintiest  the  house  affords. 

Only  a  few  things  should  be  served  at  a  time ;  it  is 
better  that  the  patient  should  think  he  has  not  had 
enough  to  eat,  than  that  he  should  lose  his  appetite  on 
the  appearance  of  a  large  quantity  of  food. 

Always  serve  tea,  coffee,  and  chocolate  in  a  little  pot, 
and  pour  it  into  the  cup  in  the  presence  of  the  patient. 
Tiny  bowls,  pitchers,  and  teapots  can  be  purchased  in 
cheap  ware  or  in  the  most  delicate  and  expensive  of 
china.  A  set  of  these  and  two  delicate  cups  and  saucers 
should  be  in  every  house.  One  flower  in  a  pretty  vase 
adds  to  the  beauty  of  a  tray.  A  bit  of  green  on  a  small 
piece  of  steak,  a  chop,  or  a  fillet  of  fish  will  make  these 
dishes  doubly  attractive. 

*  Beefsteak. 

Have  a  piece  of  steak  about  three  inches  square  and 
nearly  an  inch  thick,  cut,  if  possible,  from  the  top  of  the 
porterhouse.  The  tenderloin  is  commonly  cooked  for  in- 
valids ;  but  it  is  the  least  nutritious  of  all  the  cuts,  and 
therefore  is  not  suitable  food  for  an  invalid.  Put  the 
steak  in  the  double-broiler,  and  cook  for  eight  minutes 
over  a  bright  fire.  Hold  the  broiler  close  to  the  coals 
for  the  first  three  minutes ;  then  raise  it  several  inches 
higher  in  order  that  the  steak  may  cook  more  slowly. 
The  broiler  must  be  turned  constantly  while  the  steak  is 
being  cooked.  When  the  steak  is  done,  slip  it  from  the 
broiler  on  a  warm  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it, 
and  then  spread  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  on  it.  Serve  at 
once.  Never  place  the  steak  in  the  oven,  nor  over  water, 
nor  on  the  back  of  the  range  to  keep  hot  or  melt  the 
butter.  Even  a  minute's  stay  in  the  oven  will  injure  the 
flavor  of  the  steak  and  the  butter.  Everything  should 


854         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

be   ready   to   serve   the  moment  the  steak  comes  from 
the  fire. 

The  time  stated  for  cooking  the  steak  will  give  a  piece 
of  meat  that  is  red  from  the  thin  brown  crust  on  the 
surface  to  the  centre,  provided  that  the  steak  be  cut 
about  an  inch  thick;  if  half  an  inch  thick,  cook  for  only 
five  minutes. 

*  Round  Steak. 

When  it  is  not  possible  to  get  a  tender,  juicy  steak,  or 
when  the  patient's  power  of  mastication  is  not  good,  a 
nutritious  and  digestible  steak  can  be  prepared  from  the 
round  of  beef. 

Lay  a  thin  slice  of  round  steak  on  a  board.  Scrape 
one  surface  of  the  meat  with  a  sharp  knife  until  there 
is  nothing  left  on  that  side  but  the  tough  fibres ;  then 
turn  the  meat  over,  and  scrape  the  other  side  in  like 
manner.  As  the  tender  meat  is  scraped  off,  put  it  into  a 
small  dish.  Press  this  into  a  square,  having  it  about 
iialf  an  inch  thick.  Kub  the  bars  of  the  double-broiler 
with  a  little  butter,  and  lay  the  steak  between  them. 
Broil  over  clear  coals  for  five  minutes.  Place  the  steak 
on  a  warm  dish,  spread  a  little  butter  on  it,  and  season 
with  salt.  Serve  at  once. 

*  Victimized  Chop. 

Have  one  chop  cut  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  two  chops  from  the  neck,  cut  very  thin.  Trim 
the  thick  chop,  and  place  it  between  the  other  two. 
Place  in  the  double-broiler,  and  cook  over  clear  coals  for 
about  twelve  minutes.  Hold  the  broiler  close  to  the 
coals  so  that  the  outside  chops  shall  be  scorched.  When 
cooked,  remove  the  outside  chops,  and  place  the  middle 
one  on  a  warm  dish;  season  it  with  salt,  and  spread 
about  half  a  teaspoon ful  of  butter  over  it.  Serve  at 
once.  This  chop  is  to  be  given  to  a  patient  when  it  is 
desired  that  the  food  shall  be  particularly  nutritious. 


FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK.  855 

*  Plain  Broiled  Chops. 

Trim  two  small  chops,  and  broil  and  serve  them  in  the 
manner  described  for  beefsteak. 

*  Beef  Sandwiches. 

Scrape  some  beef  in  the  manner  described  for  prepar- 
ing round  steak;  season  it  generously  with  salt.  Cut 
four  slices  of  stale  bread  as  thin  as  a  wafer ;  spread  the 
beef  on  two  of  the  slices,  and  lay  the  other  slices  on  top, 
pressing  them  down  carefully.  Cut  them  into  small 
pieces  about  an  inch  square.  Arrange  these  daintily 
on  a  fringed  napkin  or  in  a  pretty  little  dish.  This  is 
one  of  the  pleasantest  modes  of  serving  raw  beef. 

*  Beef  Croquettes. 

When  the  patient  must  eat  raw  beef,  this  is  one  of 
the  palatable  ways  in  which  it  may  be  served.  Scrape 
the  beef  as  directed  for  preparing  round  steak ;  season  the 
tender  scraped  beef  with  salt,  and  shape  it  into  balls 
about  the  size  of  a  small  olive.  Heat  a  small  frying-pan 
very  hot;  sprinkle  it  thickly  with  salt;  put  the  beef 
balls  into  this,  and  shake  the  pan  over  a  very  hot  fire 
for  about  one  minute.  The  balls  will  then  be  coated 
brown  on  the  outside,  but  will  be  raw  under  the  thin 
coating  of  brown. 

Game. 

Nearly  all  kinds  of  game  are  more  easily  digested 
than  the  meat  of  domestic  animals;  therefore,  when 
fresh  and  tender,  game  is  good  for  the  patient  who 
can  eat  animal  food. 

*  Venison  Steak. 

Cut  a  piece  of  steak  three  inches  square  and  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Cook  it  for  seven  minutes, 


856          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

treating  it  in  every  particular  the  same  as  beefsteak. 
Serve  with  the  steak  a  teaspoonful  of  currant  jelly  in  a 
small  dish. 

Broiled  Breast  of  Grouse. 

Take  one-half  of  the  breast  of  a  sweet,  tender  grouse, 
place  it  in  the  double-broiler,  dredge  lightly  with  flour 
and  salt,  and  broil  over  clear  coals  for  eight  minutes. 
Place  on  a  warm  dish,  season  with  salt  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  serve  at  once. 

The  breast  of  a  partridge  may  be  cooked  in  the  same 
manner,  but  only  ten  minutes'  cooking  is  required. 

Quail  on  Toast. 

Split  the  quail  down  the  back,  remove  the  entrails, 
wipe  the  bird,  and  dredge  it  with  salt.  Broil  over  a 
clear  fire  for  ten  minutes.  If  the  patient  be  not  very 
sick,  before  broiling  the  bird,  spread  a  little  soft  butter 
over  the  breast  and  legs,  and  then  dredge  with  flour. 
Lay  the  bird,  breast  up,  on  a  slice  of  toast,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Squab  on  Toast. 

Split  the  squab  down  the  back;  clean  and  cook  the 
same  as  quail. 

Any  small  bird  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  manner. 

*  Broiled   Bacon. 

When  the  stomach  is  in  an  inflamed  condition,  as  in 
gastric  fever,  fat  bacon,  if  delicately  broiled,  will  be 
found  to  be  healing  and  appetizing.  Have  the  best  kind 
of  fat  smoked  bacon,  very  cold.  Cut  it  in  thin  slices 
(the  slices  should  be  so  thin  that  you  can  look  through 
them).  Place  the  slices  in  the  double-broiler,  and  cook 
over  clear  coals  until  the  bacon  curls.  It  will  take 
about  five  minutes.  Turn  the  broiler  constantly  while 
cooking  the  bacon.  When  done,  serve  at  once. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  SICK.  857 

*  Broiled  Fish. 

White  fish  is  more  easily  digested  than  dark  fish,  and 
therefore  always  should  be  selected  for  an  invalid. 
Broiling  is  to  be  preferred  to  all  other  methods  of 
cooking.  Have  a  piece  of  the  thick  part  of  the  fish, 
free  of  skin  and  bones ;  season  it  with  salt,  and  dredge 
it  lightly  with  flour;  rub  the  bars  of  a  double-broiler 
with  butter,  and  place  the  fish  between  them.  If  the 
fish  be  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  broil  it  over 
clear  coals  for  twelve  minutes.  Slip  it  on  to  a  warm 
dish,  and  spread  butter  over  it.  A  piece  of  fish  four 
inches  long  and  three  wide  will  require  a  generous 
teaspoonful  of  butter. 

*Salt  Fish  in  Cream. 

Break  into  flakes  enough  salt  codfish  to  make  half  a 
cupful.  Wash  this,  and  put  it  in  a  small  saucepan  with 
C)ld  water  enough  to  cover  it.  Cover  the  saucepan,  put 
it\n  another  of  cold  water,  and  place  on  the  back  of  the 
rarrre,  where  the  water  will  heat  slowly,  but  not  boiL 
Cook  for  three  hours  in  this  manner.  Pour  off  the  water, 
and  aid  one  gill  of  cream  or  rich  milk  to  the  fish.  Draw 
the  saucepans  forward  where  the  water  in  the  outer  pan 
will  boii  Mix  a  level  teaspoonful  of  flour  with  two 
table-spoo\fuls  of  cold  milk,  and  stir  into  the  fish  and 
milk.  Coo\  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  Kitter.  Serve  this  with  a  baked  potato  or 
with  toast.  \ 

\Broiled  Salt  Codfish. 


Take  a  piece  oi^hick  salt  fish  about  two  inches  square; 
wash  it,  and  let  X  soak  in  water  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  wipe  it,  and  t^jil  for  ten  minutes.  Spread  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  butteV>ver  this,  and  serve  with  a  baked 
potato  or  slice  of  water*0ast. 

These  two  simple  disfc  of  fish  are  to  all  invalids  very 
welcome  occasionally.  \e  broiled  salt  fish,  without 


858          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

butter,  if  served  with  a  small  piece  of  toasted  pilot  bread, 
or  any  kind  of  water  cracker  toasted,  will  often  cure 
nausea. 

*  Oyster  Stew. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  oysters,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and,  if  the  patient 
can  bear  it,  a  little  pepper. 

Drain  the  liquor  from  the  oysters,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  and  on  the  fire.  When  it  boils,  skim  it  care- 
fully. Heat  the  milk  to  the  boiling-point,  in  a  second 
saucepan.  When  the  oyster  liquor  has  been  skimmed, 
add  it  and  the  oysters  and  butter  to  the  milk.  Season, 
and  boil  up  once.  Serve  immediately. 

*  Oyster  Roast. 

Heat  half  a  pint  of  oysters  to  the  boiling-point  in  their 
own  liquor.  Skim  them,  and  then  add  one  generous 
teaspoonful  of  butter  and  enough  salt  and  pepper  to 
season  them  properly.  Pour  the  oysters  and  liquor  ever 
a  slice  of  toast,  and  serve  at  once. 

*  Oysters  Roasted  in  the  Shell. 

Wash  half  a  dozen  or  more  oyster  shells.  ^Jut  them 
into  an  old  pan,  and  put  the  pan  into  a  hot  oven.  As 
soon  as  the  shells  begin  to  open,  take  then  from  the 
oven.  Take  the  oysters  from  the  shell,  aid  put  them 
into  a  small  warm  dish.  Season  with  sfit,  pepper,  and 
a  little  butter,  and  serve  at  once,  with  a  thin  strip  of 
toast. 

*  Steamed  Oysters- 

Put  half  a  dozen  large  oysters  i*  a  saucer.  Place  the 
saucer  in  a  steamer  and  over  a  Jattle  of  boiling  water. 
Cook  for  about  five  minutes.  Peason  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  butter,  and"  serve  on  a  w*rm  dish,  with  a  toasted 
cracker. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  SICK.  859 

*  Beef  Tea. 

Put  in  a  large-mouthed  bottle  one  pound  of  beef,  free 
of  fat,  and  chopped  fine.  Add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water.  Let  it  stand  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  place  the  bottle  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water.  Place 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  heat  the  water  slowly  almost  to 
the  boiling-point,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Cook  the  beef 
for  two  hours ;  then  strain,  and  season  with  salt. 

The  thick  sediment  which  falls  to  the  bottom  when 
the  tea  stands  awhile  is  the  most  nutritious  part,  yet 
many  people  serve  only  the  clearer  and  poorer  part  to 
the  patient.  It  is  to  keep  this  sediment  (the  albuminoids) 
in  a  soft  digestible  condition,  that  care  is  taken  not  to 
let  the  water  which  surrounds  the  bottle  boil.  Great 
heat  hardens  the  albuminoids. 

If  a  patient  takes  a  great  deal  of  beef  tea,  the  flavor 
may  be  changed  occasionally  by  putting  a  piece  of  stick 
cinnamon  about  an  inch  square  into  the  bottle  with  the 
"peat  and  water. 


*  Put  into  a  oowl  a  pound  of  beef,  free  of  fat,  and 
chopped  fine.  Add  half  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  stir 
well.  Place  the  bowl  in  the  refrigerator  for  four  hours. 
When  the  tea  is  to  be  given  to  the  patient,  strain  into 
a  saucepan  as  much  as  will  be  required.  Season  it  with 
salt,  and  place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire.  Stir  constantly 
until  the  tea  is  hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 

This  tea  has  a  peculiarly  bright  flavor,  and  affords  a 
pleasant  change  from  that  made  by  long  steeping  in 
hot  water. 

*  Beef  Extract. 

Chop  lean  beef  very  fine,  and  put  it  in  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle.  Place  the  bottle  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water. 
Heat  very  slowly,  and  keep  near  the  boiling-point  for 


860          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

four  hours.  Pour  off  the  juice,  pressing  the  meat  to 
extract  every  particle  of  juice.  Season  slightly  with 
salt. 

*  Frozen  Beef  Tea. 

Put  a  small  pail  in  a  wooden  bucket,  and  surround  it 
with  salt  and  crushed  ice.  See  that  there  is  no  salt  in 
the  pail.  Put  cold  beef  tea  in  the  pail,  and  let  it  stand 
for  about  ten  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take 
the  cover  off  the  pail,  and  scrape  the  congealed  beef  tea 
from  the  sides.  Beat  well,  and  then  put  back  the  cover. 
Do  this  two  or  three  times,  and  the  tea  will  be  frozen 
smooth. 

This  is  for  patients  who  must  have  all  their  food  cold. 

*  Beef  Juice. 

Put  a  piece  of  round  steak  about  an  inch  thick  into 
the  double-broiler,  and  cook  the  same  as  beefsteak,  except 
that  this  is  to  be  cooked  for  only  seven  minutes.  Cut 
it  into  small  pieces,  and,  putting  these  in  a  lemon-squeezer, 
press  the  juice  into  a  small  warm  dish.  The  Dean  lemon- 
squeezer  (illustrated  on  page  53)  is  particularly  nice  for 
this  work.  The  squeezer  should  be  heated  before  the 
meat  is  put  into  it. 

Presses  come  for  this  purpose,  and  with  their  aid  the 
work  can  be  done  quickly  and  well. 

*  Mutton  Juice. 

Cut  a  thick  slice  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  and  cut  off  all 
the  fat.  Broil  the  meat,  and  treat  the  same  as  when 
preparing  beef  juice. 

The  dish  gravy  from  a  roast  of  beef  or  mutton  can  be 
used  for  a  patient  instead  of  broiling  meat  especially  to 
get  juice.  Care  must  be  taken  that  there  is  no  fat 
mingled  with  it. 


FOOD  FOB  THE   SICK.  861 

*  Sippets. 

Toast  one  slice  of  bread  a  delicate  brown.  Cut  it  into 
narrow  strips,  and  arrange  on  a  warm  plate.  Season 
warm  beef  or  mutton  juice  with  salt,  and  pour  it  over 
the  strips  of  toast.  Serve  at  once. 

*  Clam  Broth. 

Get  the  clams  in  the  shells.  Wash  them  carefully  in 
several  waters.  Put  ten  or  a  dozen  clams  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Place  on  the  fire, 
and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  the  liquor  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Taste,  to  be  sure  there  is  salt  enough.  If, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  broth  is  too  salty,  dilute  it  with 
boiling  water.  This  is  a  stimulating  and  nutritious 
drink. 

*  Mutton  Broth. 

This  is  made  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  scraggy 
part  of  a  neck  of  mutton.  Cut  off  all  the  fat,  and  cut 
the  meat  into  cubes.  Add  to  the  meat  a  table-spoonful 
of  barley  and  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Heat  the  broth 
slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  skim  carefully.  Set 
back  where  it  will  simmer.  Put  the  bones  into  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  strain  the  liquor  on  the  meat  and  barley,  and 
cook  the  broth  for  two  hours  more.  Season  well  with 
salt. 

The  barley  may  be  omitted. 

*  Chicken  Broth. 

Free  half  of  a  young  fowl  of  skin  and  fat.  Wash  it, 
and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with 
one  quart  of  cold  water.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  heat 
slowly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  skim  carefully,  and  set 
back  where  it  will  simmer  for  three  hours.  Season  with 
salt,  and  strain  the  broth. 


862          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

If  the  patient  can  take  tapioca,  sago,  or  rice,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  one  of  these  articles  to  the  broth  when 
it  has  been  cooking  for  one  hour. 

*  Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  chicken  stock,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  rice,  and  about  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  put  it  in  a  small  stew-pan  with  the 
stock.  Cover  closely,  and  put  on  the  back  part  of  the 
range,  where  it  will  hardly  bubble.  Cook  the  mixture 
for  two  hours,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  rub  it  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  stew-pan,  and  add  the 
cream  and  salt.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  it 
begins  to  boil.  Serve  at  once. 

If  the  patient  can  bear  it,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice 
and  a  tiny  piece  of  celery  may  be  added  to  the  stock  and 
rice  when  they  have  been  cooking  for  an  hour  and  a 
half. 

Any  good  stock  may  be  substituted  for  the  chicken 
stock. 

Chicken  Jelly. 

Clean  a  fowl  that  is  about  a  year  old,  and  remove  the 
skin  and  fat.  Disjoint  the  fowl,  and  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  Heat  slowly,  and 
skim  often  and  carefully.  Simmer  for  six  hours ;  then 
add  one  generous  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  strain  through 
a  napkin.  Set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  skim  off  the 
fat.  The  jelly  is  usually  served  cold,  but  may  be  heated 
and  served  like  soup. 

Charlotte  Cushman's  Jelly. 

Use  a  shin  of  beef  weighing  seven  pounds  (have  the 
butcher  break  it  into  small  pieces),  four  calves'  feet, 
one  gallon  of  water,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  twenty 


FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK.  863 

pepper-corns,  three  cloves,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  the 
whites  of  two  eggs. 

Wash  the  calves'  feet  and  shin  of  beef  carefully.  Put 
the  meat  and  water  into  a  large  stew-pan.  Heat  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point,  skimming  carefully  and  frequently 
in  the  first  half-hour.  Boil  gently  for  eight  hours  ;  then 
strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When 
cold,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  put  the  jelly  into  a  stew-pan 
with  the  seasonings.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  rather 
light,  and  add  to  them  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Beat 
well,  and  add  to  the  contents  of  the  stew-pan.  Place 
the  stew-pan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  the  mixture  frequently 
until  it  gets  warm.  Keep  the  pan  on  the  hot  part  of  the 
stove  until  the  contents  begin  to  bubble ;  then  draw  it 
back  immediately  to  a  place  where  the  jelly  will  keep 
heated  to  the  boiling-point  for  half  an  hour.  When  this 
time  has  passed,  strain  the  jelly  through  a  napkin,  and 
pour  it  into  tumblers.  Cool,  cover,  and  set  away  in  a 
cold  place.  It  may  be  given  to  the  patient  cold,  or  be 
heated  and  served  like  soup. 

Heat  a  tumbler  of  this  jelly ;  add  to  it  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  gill  of  port,  and  a  generous 
half-gill  of  sugar ;  cool  this  liquid  in  little  moulds,  and 
you  have  port  wine  jelly,  which  is  very  nutritious.  Any 
other  kind  of  wine  may  be  used,  or,  for  a  change,  use 
fruit  juice  instead  of  wine. 

*  Macaroni  Soup. 

Boil  two  sticks  of  macaroni  in  one  pint  of  water  for 
half  an  hour.  Drain  it,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  half  an 
inch  long.  Put  these  in  a  small  saucepan  with  one 
tumbler  of  Charlotte  Cushman  jelly,  and  place  on  the 
fire  to  heat.  A  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  may  be  added 
if  the  patient  can  bear  it. 

Rice,  tapioca,  sago,  or  barley  may  be  cooked  and  added 
in  this  way  to  the  jelly.. 


864          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Rice  Porridge. 

Wash  one  table-spoonful  of  rice,  and  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  scant  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  Boil  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Mix  four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk  with 
one  of  flour.  Add  this  and  half  a  pint  of  milk  to  the 
rice,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  longer.  Season  with 
salt,  —  about  a  level  teaspoonful. 

*  Cracker  Gruel. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker,  a  scant  half- 
pint  of  boiling  water,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  are  used  to  make  this  gruel.  Pour  the 
boiling  water  on  the  crackers.  Add  the  milk  and  salt, 
and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils  up  once. 

*  Graham  Gruel. 

Put  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  a  saucepan,  and  place 
on  the  fire.  Mix  four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water  with 
one  of  graham  meal,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  water. 
Cook  for  half  an  hour.  When  the  mixture  has  been 
simmering  for  twenty  minutes,  add  a  scant  half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Pour  a  gill  of  this  gruel  into  a  cup,  and  add 
half  a  gill  of  cream  or  milk.  Serve  hot. 

*  Indian  Meal  Gruel. 

Put  one  quart  of  boiling  water  into  a  stew-pan,  and 
place  on  the  fire.  Put  into  a  bowl  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  Indian  meal  and  one  of  flour.  Add  a  gill  of  cold 
water,  and  mix  well.  Stir  this  into  the  boiling  water. 
Stir  the  mixture  well,  and  when  it  boils,  set  the  stew- 
pan  back  where  the  gruel  will  simmer  for  two  hours. 
Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour 
longer.  Pour  a  gill  of  the  gruel  into  a  cup,  and  add  half 
a  gill  of  cream  or  milk.  Serve  at  once. 


FOOD   FOR   THE    SICK.  865 

*  Oatmeal  Gruel. 

Put  a  quart  of  boiling  water  into  a  stew-pan,  and  place 
on  the  fire.  Sprinkle  one  generous  table-spoonful  of  oat- 
meal into  the  water.  Stir  the  gruel  well,  and  set  it  back 
where  it  will  simmer  for  two  hours.  Season  with  a 
scant  half-teaspoonful  of  salt.  Strain  or  not,  as  may  be 
best  for  the  patient.  In  any  case  put  one  gill  of  the  hot 
gruel  into  a  delicate  cup,  and  add  half  a  gill  of  cream  or 
milk. 

*  Flour  Gruel. 

After  putting  one  pint  of  milk  into  the  double-boiler 
and  placing  it  on  the  fire,  mix  a  gill  of  cold  milk  with 
one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  milk. 
Cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Season  with  a  scant  half- 
teaspoonful  of  salt  ;  then  strain,  and  serve  hot. 

When  this  gruel  is  desired  more  nutritious,  add  half  a 
cupful  of  raisins  to  the  milk  when  it  is  put  on  to  boil. 
A  slight  grating  of  nutmeg  may  be  added  if  the  patient 
desires. 

*  Arrowroot  Gruel. 

Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk.  Stir  this  mixture  into  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
Add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  strain  the  gruel. 

*  Caudle. 

Add  half  a  gill  of  wine  to  any  kind  of  plain  gruel, 
Buch  as  that  made  of  flour,  cracker,  or  arrowroot.  The 
wine  must  be  added  after  the  gruel  is  taken  from  the 
fire.  Stir  it  gradually  into  the  hot  gruel,  and  serve  at 
once. 

*Wine  Whey. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  sweet  milk  into  the  double-boiler. 
When  it  boils,  add  a  gill  of  sherry.  Stir  well,  and  let  it 

£5 


866          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

cook  until  the  curd  and  whey  separate.  If  the  wine  be 
quite  sour,  the  milk  will  separate  at  once ;  sometimes  it  is 
so  sweet  that  an  extra  quantity  is  required  to  curdle  the 
milk.  If  there  be  any  objection  to  the  use  of  more  wine 
in  a  case  like  this,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar.  Pour 
the  liquid  through  a  fine  strainer. 

*  Buttermilk  or  Sour  Milk  Whey. 

Put  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk  into  the  double-boiler, 
and  place  on  the  stove.  When  it  boils,  add  one  cupful  of 
buttermilk  or  sour  milk.  Stir  for  a  minute.  When  the 
clear  whey  separates  from  the  milk,  strain  it. 

*  Vinegar  Whey. 

Stir  two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar  into  half  a  pint  of 
hot  milk,  and  cook  until  the  clear  whey  separates  from 
the  milk  ;  then  strain. 

If  the  vinegar  be  very  strong,  one  table-spoonful  will 
be  enough. 

*  Cream-of-Tartar  Whey. 

Put  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk  in  the  double-boiler. 
When  it  boils,  add  one  level  teaspoonful  of  cream-of- 
tartar,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  forms  a  curd  and  whey. 
Strain  this,  and  cool  the  whey.  This  is  a  refreshing 
drink  for  a  fever  patient. 

*  Lemon  Whey. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  with  half  a 
pint  of  hot  milk.  Cook  until  the  clear  whey  separates 
from  the  curd.  Strain,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar. 

*  Tamarind  Water. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  preserved  tamarind  in  a  bowl. 
Pour  three  gills  of  boiling  water  on  the  preserve.  Stir 
well,  and  let  the  liquid  stand  for  ten  minutes.  Strain 
and  cool. 


FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK.  867 


*  Currant  Water. 

When  currant  juice  is  at  hand,  use  three  table- 
spoonfuls  to  half  a  glass  of  water.  Sweeten  slightly.  A 
teaspoonful  of  currant  jelly  dissolved  in  half  a  glass  of 
water  makes  a  refreshing  drink. 

*  Barley  Water. 

Wash  two  table-spoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  water. 
Simmer  for  two  hours.  Strain  the  water,  and  if  it  is  to 
be  used  without  sweetening  or  flavor,  add  a  grain  of 
salt. 

A  few  lumps  of  sugar  may  be  rubbed  on  the  skin 
of  a  lemon.  If  rubbed  hard  enough,  they  will  break  the 
oil  cells,  the  sugar  absorbing  the  oil.  Add  this  sugar 
to  the  barley  water,  or  flavor  with  the  lemon  juice  and 
some  sugar. 

*Rice  Water. 

Wash  four  table-spoonfuls  of  rice,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  water.  Place 
on  the  fire,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Season  the  liquid 
with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  then  let  it  cool. 

Another  way  is  to  use  only  half  as  much  water.  When 
the  rice  has  been  cooking  for  half  an  hour,  add  three 
gills  of  milk.  Heat  this  to  the  boiling-point;  then  strain. 
This  is  good  in  case  of  bowel  trouble. 

*  Apple  Water. 

Bake  two  large  tart  apples  until  they  are  tender  all 
through.  Sprinkle  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar  over  them, 
and,  returning  them  to  the  oven,  cook  them  until  the 
sugar  has  browned  slightly.  Place  the  apples  in  a  bowl, 
and  break  them  with  a  spoon.  Pour  a  generous  pint  of 
boiling  water  on  them,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour. 
Strain  and  cool  the  liquid. 


868          MISS  FARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


*  Toast  Water. 

Toast  slices  of  stale  bread  very  slowly  until  they  are 
dry  and  slightly  brown  all  through.  Now  hold  the  toast 
near  the  fire  until  it  is  a  rich  brown.  Break  the  toast 
into  small  pieces,  and  put  half  a  pint  of  it  into  a  pitcher. 
Pour  over  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water.  Let  the 
mixture  stand  for  ten  minutes ;  then  strain.  Cool  the 
water  before  giving  it  to  the  patient. 

A  word  of  caution :  Do  not  use  a  particle  of  the  bread 
that  is  not  thoroughly  browned ;  it  will  spoil  the  flavor 
of  the  water. 

*  Crust  Coffee. 

Toast  the  crusts  of  graham  or  white  bread  until  a  very 
dark  brown.  Break  them  into  small  pieces.  Put  half 
a  pint  of  the  broken  crusts  into  a  pitcher,  and  pour  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water  over  them.  Cover  the 
pitcher,  and  let  it  stand  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  strain  the 
contents. 

This  drink  is  given  to  the  patient  cold  or  hot.  Some- 
times a  little  milk  or  cream  is  added  to  it. 

*  Flaxseed  Lemonade. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flaxseed  in  a  bowl  or  pitcher, 
and  pour  over  it  one  pint  of  boiling  water.  Steep,  for 
three  hours,  in  a  warm  place.  •  At  the  end  of  that  time 
strain  the  liquid,  and  add  to  it  the  juice  of  one  lemon 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  More  sugar  may  be 
used  if  liked. 

This  drink  is  soothing  for  colds.  Should  the  lemonade 
be  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  water  to  it. 

Mulled  Wine. 

Put  into  a  bowl  one  inch  of  stick  cinnamon,  three 
whole  cloves,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  half  a  cup- 
ful of  water.  Cover  the  bowl,  and,  placing  it  in  a  sauce- 


FOOD  FOR  THE  SICK.  869 

pan  of  boiling  water,  cook  the  contents  for  ten  minutes. 
Put  one  cupful  of  port  or  claret  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar  with  this  at  the  end  of  ten  minutes.  Cover  the 
bowl  again,  and  continue  boiling  the  water  in  the  stew- 
pan  until  the  wine  becomes  hot,  which  will  be  in  about 
eight  minutes.  Strain,  and  give  to  the  patient  at  once. 
Or  beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  beat 
the  yolk  into  it.  Pour  the  mulled  wine  on  this,  and  beat 
well. 

Mulled  wine  is  excellent  when  the  patient  requires  a 
warm  stimulating  drink.  It  is  particularly  valuable  for 
a  patient  that  has  been  chilled. 

*Egg  Tea. 

Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  into 
this  a  scant  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  the  yolk  of  the 
egg.  Gradually  add  half  a  cupful  of  hot  water  or  hot 
milk,  beating  all  the  time  the  hot  liquid  is  poured.  A 
little  nutmeg,  if  liked,  may  be  added. 

*Egg  Nog. 

Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Beat 
into  this  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar.  Next  beat  in  the 
yolk  of  the  egg  and  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy.  Add  a 
gill  and  a  half  of  sweet  milk  and  a  slight  grating  of 
nutmeg.  Pour  into  a  tumbler,  and  serve  at  once. 

A  table-spoonful  of  rum  or  wine  may  be  substituted 
for  the  brandy. 

*Milk  Punch. 

Put  into  a  bowl  three  gills  of  sweet  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  two  of  rum,  brandy,  or  whiskey. 
'Stir  well.  Pour  this  mixture  from  one  bowl  to  another 
to  froth  it.  Hold  the  bowl  high  as  you  pour  the  liquid. 
When  it  is  frothed,  pour  it  into  a  tumbler  and  serve  it 
to  the  patient. 


870          MISS  PARLOA*S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

*  Lemon  Moss.  —  A  Drink  for  the  Lungs. 

Put  one  teaspoonful  of  sea-moss  farina  in  a  bowl. 
Gradually  pour  on  it  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  stirring 
all  the  time.  Steep  for  half  an  hour.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  a  generous  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Strain,  and  use  hot  or  cold. 

*  Koumiss. 

In  making  koumiss  there  will  be  required  strong  bot- 
tles (either  champagne  or  beer  bottles  are  strong  enough), 
pure,  sweet  milk,  and  good  yeast  (either  brewer's  or 
home-made).  If  it  be  inconvenient  to  obtain  liquid 
yeast,  compressed  yeast  will  do. 

Put  nearly  a  quart  of  milk  into  a  quart  bottle.  Put 
one  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  one  of  water  into  a  small 
saucepan,  and  place  on  the  fire.  Boil  for  one  minute. 
Add  this  syrup  and  a  table-spoonful  of  yeast  to  the 
milk  in  the  bottle.  Shake  well,  and  after  filling  up  the 
bottle  with  milk,  shake  again. 

Have  ready  a  fresh  cork  that  has  been  soaked  in  hot 
water  for  an  hour  or  more.  Press  it  into  the  bottle,  and 
tie  down  with  strong  twine.  Place  the  bottle  in  the 
refrigerator,  and  let  it  stand  for  three  or  four  days. 
Draw  off  the  contents  through  a  champagne  tap.  If 
there  be  no  tap,  remove  the  cork  very  carefully,  because 
the  koumiss  is  effervescent. 

Should  there  be  any  curdled  particles  in  the  bottle  of 
koumiss  do  not  give  the  drink  to  the  patient.  It  can  be 
used  instead  in  cooking  wherever  sour  milk  would  be 
used. 

If  compressed  yeast  be  employed  in  making  koumiss, 
use  about  one-fifth  of  a  cake,  and  dissolve  it  thoroughly 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  water. 

This  drink  will  keep  for  months  if  the  bottles  be 
placed  on  their  sides  in  a  dark,  cool  cellar  or  in  the 
refrigerator. 


FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK.  871 


*  Cream  Toast. 

Put  a  gill  and  a  half  of  cream  into  a  saucepan,  and 
place  on  the  fire  to  heat,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Toast 
two  slices  of  bread,  and  cut  them  in  strips.  Stir  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  salt  into  the  hot  cream,  and  lay  the 
strips  of  toast  in  the  cream  for  two  minutes.  Place  them 
in  a  warm  dish,  and  serve. 

*  Milk  Toast. 

Toast  two  slices  of  bread  a  delicate  brown.  Put  one 
gill  of  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan.  Mix  one 
teaspoonful  of  flour  with  half  a  gill  of  cold  milk.  Stir 
this  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes. 
Add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter. 

Cut  the  toast  into  six  strips.  Put  these  strips  into 
the  prepared  milk.  Let  them  stand  for  two  minutes ; 
then  lay  them  in  a  small  dish  or  a  pretty  saucer,  pour  the 
cream  over  them,  and  serve  at  once. 

*  Water  Toast. 

Toast  two  slices  of  bread  a  rich  brown.  Put  one  cup- 
ful of  boiling  water  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  a  soup- 
plate.  Dip  the  slices  of  bread  into  the  liquid,  removing 
them  at  once.  Spread  lightly  with  butter,  and  serve 
immediately. 

*  Graham  Wafers. 

Use  a  cupful  of  graham  meal,  one  cupful  and  a  third 
of  boiling  water,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  the 
meal  and  salt,  and  gradually  pour  the  boiling  water  on 
the  mixture.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  cool.  Butter  slightly 
the  bottoms  of  two  or  more  baking-pans.  Spread  the 
mixture,  as  thin  as  possible,  in  the  pans,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  brown. 


872          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

*  Tapioca  Pudding. 

Soak  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  half  a  cupful 
of  cold  water  for  five  hours.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
milk  and  about  one-third  of  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Cook 
for  half  an  hour.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

*  Tapioca  Jelly. 

Soak  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  half  a  cupful 
of  cold  water  for  five  hours.  Add  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water,  and  cook  until  the  liquid  is  perfectly  clear  j  then 
add  a  very  small  quantity  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  and  a  generous  table-spoonful  of  sugar.  Turn  into 
a  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

Sugar  and  cream  may  be  served  with  this  jelly. 

*  Exotique  Jelly. 

Sprinkle  two  table-spoonfuls  of  "  Tapioca  Exotique  " 
into  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Cook  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Now  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Wet  two 
small  cups  with  cold  water,  and  pour  the  jelly  into  them. 
Set  away  to  cool. 

Orange,  currant,  strawberry,  or  raspberry  juice  may  be 
substituted  for  lemon  juice. 

*  Exotique   Pudding. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  in  a  stew-pan,  and  place  on  the 
fire  where  it  will  heat  slowly.  When  the  milk  begins 
to  boil,  sprinkle  into  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  "  Tapioca 
Exotique,"  stirring  all  the  while.  Stir  until  the  pudding 
is  smooth ;  then  add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  beat 
well.  Cook  five  minutes  longer,  and  serve  with  sugar 
and  cream. 


FOOD  FOR  THE   SICK.  873 

*  Blanc-mange. 

Reserve  four  table-spoonfuls  from  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  heat  the  remainder  to  the  boiling-point.  Mix  the 
cold  milk  with  a  table-spoonful  of  arrowroot,  and  stir 
the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Add  a  small  quantity 
of  salt,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  enough  lemon  extract  or  wine  to 
suit  your  taste.  Turn  into  a  mould,  and  set  away  to 
harden.  Serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Restorative  Jelly. 

Use  half  a  box  of  gelatine,  one  table-spoonful  of  gran- 
ulated gum-arabic,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  two  cloves,  and  half  a 
pint  of  port.  Soak  all  the  ingredients  in  a  bowl  for  two 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  place  the  bowl  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook,  stirring  frequently, 
until  all  the  ingredients  are  dissolved.  Strain,  and  set 
away  to  harden. 

The  bowl  must  be  kept  covered  all  the  time  the  jelly  is 
soaking  and  cooking. 

This  jelly  is  to  be  used  when  the  patient  finds  it  diffi- 
cult to  swallow  either  liquid  or  solid  food.  A  small 
piece  of  it,  placed  in  the  mouth,  melts  slowly,  and  is 
swallowed  unconsciously. 

The  sugar  may  be  omitted,  and  a  gill  of  port  and  a 
gill  of  beef  juice  be  used,  the  beef  juice  to  be  added  when 
the  jelly  is  taken  from  the  fire.  Any  kind  of  stimulant 
may  be  used  instead  of  port. 

*Soft  Custard. 

Use  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one  egg,  one  generous  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
arrowroot. 

Mix  the  arrowroot  with  one  table-spoonful  of  cold 
milk.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  milk  in  a  small  sauce- 


874          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

pan,  which  should  be  placed  in  another  pan  and  sur- 
rounded with  hot  water.  Place  on  the  fire.  When  the 
milk  boils,  stir  in  the  arrowroot,  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes ;  then  add  the  sugar  and  egg,  beaten  well  together. 
Stir  for  two  minutes.  Add  the  salt,  and  take  the  pan 
from  the  fire.  Flavor  the  custard  to  suit  the  taste.  A 
few  drops  of  any  kind  of  extract  may  be  used;  or  a 
teaspoonful  of  chocolate,  dissolved  in  a  table-spoonful  of 
hot  milk  will  give  a  pleasant  flavor.  If  coffee  be  liked, 
use  a  teaspoonful  of  strong  coffee. 

Two  eggs  may  be  used  for  this  custard.  In  that  case 
omit  the  arrowroot,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold 
milk  to  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar  before  adding  the  hot 
milk. 

Ice-cream. 

For  a  quart  of  ice-cream  use  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
one  pint  of  cream  (not  too  rich),  a  scant  half-cupful  of 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot,  and  flavor  to  suit 
the  taste. 

Mix  the  arrowroot  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold 
milk.  Put  the  rest  of  the  milk  into  the  double-boiler, 
and  place  on  the  fire.  When  it  boils,  stir  the  arrowroot 
into  it,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Add  the  sugar,  and 
set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  cream  and  flavor. 
If  lemon,  orange,  or  vanilla  extract  be  used,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  will  give  the  right  flavor ;  or  one  table-spoonful 
of  chocolate,  dissolved  in  the  boiling  milk,  will  give  a 
good  flavor. 

Pack  a  small  tin  pail  in  salt  and  ice,  using  three  cup- 
f uls  of  salt  and  as  much  ice  as  may  be  needed  for  packing 
the  pail  firmly.  Wipe  the  inside  of  the  pail,  to  be  sure 
that  no  salt  shall  be  in  it.  Put  the  cream  into  the  pail, 
and  let  it  stand  for  about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  take  off  the  cover  and  scrape  the  con- 
gealed cream  from  the  sides.  Beat  well,  and  put  the 
cover  back.  Do  this  every  five  minutes  until  the  cream 


FOOD   FOR   THE   SICK.  875 

is  smooth  and  thick ;  then  cover  the  pail,  and  let  it  stand 
until  the  patient  wants  the  cream. 

This  ice-cream  will  keep  for  twelve  hours  in  cool 
weather,  without  repacking.  In  hot  weather  the  water 
will  have  to  be  drawn  off,  and  more  salt  and  ice  added. 
If  a  small  freezer  be  at  hand,  the  work  will  be  much 
easier  than  if  a  pail  be  used. 

The  amount  of  sugar  given  is  less  than  is  used  for  ice- 
cream when  made  for  the  table,  and  yet  may  be  too  much 
for  some  patients. 

Orange  Sherbet. 

Mix  together  two  gills  of  orange  juice,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  one  gill  and  a  half  of  sugar, 
and  one  pint  of  cold  water.  Strain,  and  freeze  the  same 
as  ice-cream. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

Mix  one  gill  of  lemon  juice,  a  gill  and  a  half  of  sugar, 
and  one  pint  of  water.  Strain  and  freeze. 

Any  kind  of  fruit  juice  may  be  sweetened,  diluted 
with  water,  and  frozen. 

*  Oatmeal  Mush. 

Put  one  cupful  of  boiling  water  into  a  small  stew-pan. 
Stir  into  it  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  oatmeal,  sprinkling 
in  a  little  at  a  time.  Add  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Stir  three  times  in  the  first  ten  minutes  that  the 
mush  is  cooking ;  then  put  the  stew-pan  back  where  the 
mush  will  just  bubble  for  two  hours.  Serve  with  cream 
or  milk. 

If  the  steamed  oatmeal  be  used,  half  an  hour's  cooking 
will  be  sufficient. 

The  mush  must  not  be  stirred  after  the  first  ten 
minutes. 


876          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

*  Burnt  Brandy. 

In  giving  brandy  to  a  patient  it  is  sometimes  necessary 
to  mellow  it,  and  eliminate  the  greater  part  of  the  alcohol. 
This  is  done  by  burning  the  liquor.  Put  the  brandy  in 
a  warm  deep  plate,  and  place  on  top  of  the  stove  for  a 
few  minutes.  Light  a  match,  and  when  the  sulphur  has 
burned  off,  touch  the  match  to  the  warm  brandy,  which 
will  blaze  until  the  alcohol  is  exhausted. 

A  Simple  Cure  for  Indigestion  and  Constipation. 

After  each  meal  slowly  masticate  three  pinches  of 
wheat  bran.  This  is  a  very  effective  remedy  if  faith 
fully  tried. 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  877 


WHAT    ALL    HOUSEKEEPERS 
SHOULD    KNOW. 


Equivalents  of  Weights  in  Measure. 

One  rounded  table-spoonful  of  butter One  ounce. 

One  rounded  table-spoonful  of  granulated  sugar      .     .     .  One  ounce. 

One  heaping  table-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar  ....  One  ounce. 

Two  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  flour One  ounce. 

Two  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  ground  spice      ....  One  ounce. 

Five  medium-sized  nutmegs One  ounce. 

One  quart  of  sifted  pastry  flour One  pound. 

One  quart  of  sifted  new- process  flour,  less  one  gill  .     .     .  One  pound. 

One  pint  of  granulated  sugar One  pound. 

One  pint  of  butter One  pound. 

One  pint  of  ordinary  liquid One  pound. 

One  solid  pint  of  chopped  meat One  pound. 

One  cupful  of  rice Half  a  pound. 

One  cupful  of  Indian  meal Six  ounces. 

One  cupful  of  stemmed  raisins Six  ounces. 

One  cupful  of  cleaned  and  dried  English  currants  .     .     .  Six  ounces. 

One  cupful  of  grated  bread  crumbs Two  ounces. 

How  to  Measure  Fractions  of  a  Cupful. 

When  dividing  a  receipt  in  order  to  make  a  small 
quantity  of  something,  it  is  frequently  difficult  to  learn 
the  fractional  parts  of  a  cupful.  In  such  cases  the  fol- 
lowing table  will  be  helpful.  The  cup  used  is  supposed 
to  hold  half  a  pint. 

Eight  rounding  table-spoonfuls  of  flour One  cupful. 

Eight  rounding  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar One  cupful. 

Eight  rounding  table-spoonfuls  of  butter      ,     ,     .     ,     ,     One  cupful. 


878          MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

Sixteen  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid One  cupful. 

Two  gills        One  cupful. 

A  common  tumblerful One  cupful. 

Points  about  the  Use  of  the  Oven. 

Almost  every  oven  has  some  peculiarity  which  the 
cook  must  understand  before  she  will  be  sure  of  results. 
The  question  is  often  asked,  "  Where  should  the  baking 
be  done,  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven  or  on  the  grate  ?  " 
The  answer  is,  that  it  depends  wholly  upon  the  oven. 
In  a  set  range,  where  the  ovens  are  on  each  side  of  the 
tire,  it  will  generally  be  found  that  the  baking  should  be 
done  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven.  Where  the  ovens  are 
above  the  fire,  most. of  the  baking  must  be  done  on  a 
grate  that  is  raised  several  inches  from  the  bottom  of 
the  oven.  In  portable  ranges  and  stoves  the  baking  is 
nearly  always  done  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven. 

In  baking  bread  or  rolls,  put  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water  into  the  oven.  The  steam  will  keep  the  crust 
smooth  and  tender. 

Much  of  the  heavy  cake  and  bread  is  the  result  of  the 
oven  door  being  banged  when  closed.  Close  the  door  as 
gently  as  possible.  Nearly  every  one  opens  it  gently 
enough. 

Good  Tests  of  Oven  Heat  when  Baking. 

By  using  the  following  tests  one  may  be  reasonably 
sure  of  getting  the  proper  heat  for  the  various  kinds  of 
baking :  — 

For  sponge  cake  and  pound  cake  have  heat  that  will 
in  five  minutes  turn  a  piece  of  white  paper  light  yellow. 

For  all  other  kinds  of  cup  cake  use  an  oven  that  will 
in  five  minutes  turn  a  piece  of  white  paper  dark  yellow. 

For  bread  and  pastry  have  an  oven  that  will  in  five 
minutes  turn  a  piece  of  paper  dark  brown. 

When  the  oven  is  too  hot  at  first,  a  crust  forms  on  the 
bread  or  cake,  which  prevents  its  rising.  .  It  is  better, 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  879 

when  baking  bread  and  cake,  to  have  the"  oven  a  little 
slow  at  first,  and  increase  the  heat  in  a  little  while. 

In  baking  puff  paste  the  heat  should  be  great  at  first 
and  decreased  later.  This  is  to  keep  the  paste  in  shape. 

When  the  oven  is  too  hot,  the  temperature  may  be  re- 
duced by  putting  a  pan  of  cold  water  iu  the  oven. 

When  baking  in  an  oven  that  is  too  hot  at  the  top, 
fill  with  cold  water  a  dripping-pan  about  an  inch  deep, 
and  place  it  on  the  top  grate  of  the  oven.  On  the  con- 
trary, should  the  oven  be  too  hot  on  the  bottom,  put  a 
grate  under  the  article  that  is  to  be  baked. 

Biscuit  made  with  an  acid  and  an  alkali,  such  as 
baking-powder,  soda,  and  cream -of-tartar,  or  soda  and 
sour  milk,  should  be  baked  in  a  very  hot  oven.  The 
hotter  it  can  be,  and  yet  not  burn  the  biscuit,  the  better. 
An  oven  that  will  color  a  piece  of  white  paper  dark 
brown  in  one  minute  will  be  none  too  hot  for  this  kind 
of  biscuit. 

Muffins  that  contain  no  substance  for  making  them 
light,  except  the  air  that  is  beaten  into  them,  should 
have  an  oven  nearly  as  hot  as  for  cream-of-tartar  biscuit. 
Muffins  that  are  made  with  soda  and  cream-of-tartar, 
baking-powder,  or  some  other  acid  and  alkali,  should  be 
baked  in  an  oven  that  will  color  a  piece  of  white  paper 
dark  brown  in  four  minutes. 


How  to  Make  a  Paste  or  Batter  of  Flour  and 
a  Liquid. 

One  of  the  things  commonly  done  wrong  is  the  mix- 
ing of  flour  and  a  liquid  when  a  thin  batter  or  paste 
is  desired.  It  may  seem  to  be  a  small  matter,  but 
in  the  aggregate  it  causes  a  world  of  trouble  and  un- 
necessary labor  in  the  kitchen.  If  this  simple  rule  be 
followed,  the  mixture  will  always  be  smooth  and  free  of 
lumps :  — 

Measure  the  flour,  and  add  to  it  an  equal  measure  of 


880          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

liquid.     Stir  together  until  smooth  ;  then  gradually  add 
a  part  of  the  liquid  until  the  mixture  is  thin  enough. 

In  making  a  thickening  for  soups  or  sauces  there 
should  be  four  or  five  times  as  much  liquid  as  there  is 
flour. 

The  Way  to  Add  Thickening  to  a  Boiling 
Liquid. 

If  a  thickening  made  of  flour  or  any  kind  of  starch 
and  a  cold  liquid  be  poured,  without  stirring,  into  the 
hot  liquid,  it  falls  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  some  of 
it  cooks  in  lumps  before  the  liquid  is  stirred.  Sauces 
and  soups  frequently  are  spoiled  in  this  manner  by  being 
made  too  thin  and  lumpy.  To  add  thickening  properly, 
hold  the  bowl  which  contains  the  thickening  mixture  in 
the  left  hand.  Put  .a  long-handled  spoon  in  the  boiling 
liquid,  and  begin  to  stir  from  the  bottom ;  then  gradually 
pour  in  the  thickening,  stirring  all  the  while.  This  will 
give  a  smooth  sauce  or  soup. 

If  the  liquid  is  to  be  thickened  with  flour  and  butter, 
the  treatment  is  different.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream, 
and  then  beat  in  the  flour.  If  there  be  twice  as  much 
butter  as  flour,  stir  it  all  in  at  once,  and  continue  stir- 
ring until  it  is  all  dissolved ;  but  if  there  be  more  flour 
than  butter,  gradually  pour  on  this  enough  boiling  liquid 
to  make  a  very  thin  substance.  Stir  this  into  the  re- 
mainder of  the  liquid. 

When  yolks  of  eggs  are  used  for  thickening  a  soup  or 
sauce,  beat  them  well ;  then  add  a  gill  of  cold  liquid  to 
every  two  yolks.  Stir  it  into  the  hot  liquid,  and  stir  all 
the  time  the  dish  is  on  the  fire,  which  should  never  be 
more  than  a  minute. 

About  Stirring  and  Beating. 

Many  dishes  are  spoiled  because  the  difference  between 
stirring  and  beating  is  not  understood. 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  881 

In  stirring,  the  object  is  to  combine  the  ingredients,  or 
to  make  a  substance  smooth.  The  spoon  is  kept  rather 
close  to  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  bowl  or  saucepan, 
and  is  worked  round  and  round  in  the  mixture  until  the 
object  is  attained. 

Beating  is  employed  for  two  purposes :  first,  to  break 
up  a  substance,  as  in  beating  eggs  for  breading  or  for  cus- 
tards ;  second,  for  making  a  substance  light  by  imprison- 
ing air  in  it.  This  is  the  case  when  we  beat  the  whites 
of  eggs,  batters,  cake,  etc.  The  movement  is  very  differ- 
ent from  stirring.  The  spoon  or  whisk  at  every  stroke  is 
partially  lifted  from  the  bowl,  and  brings  with  it  a  por- 
tion of  the  materials  that  are  being  beaten,  which  carries 
air  with  it  in  falling  back.  It  is  not  the  number  of 
strokes  that  makes  substances  light,  but  rather  the  vigor 
and  rapidity  with  which  the  beating  is  done.  This  is 
the  reason  why  so  many  people  can  say  that  they  have 
better  luck  in  making  cake  when  they  are  in  a  hurry. 
It  is  not  "  luck,"  but  the  sure  result  of  beating  so  rapidly 
that  a  large  amount  of  air  is  imprisoned  in  the  eggs 
and  the  .batter.  This  air  expands  in  the  heat,  and,  every- 
thing else  being  favorable,  a  light  cake  or  muffin  is  the 
result. 

So  essential  is  air  to  all  forms  of  'tread,  cake,  pastry, 
and  many  kinds  of  dessert,  that  every  cook  should  learn 
how  to  beat  in  the  easiest  and  most  effectual  manner. 

When  using  a  spoon  or  whisk  for  beating,  take  long- 
upward  strokes,  the  more  rapid  the  better.  The  spoon 
should  touch  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  each  time,  and  the 
motion  must  be  regular. 

Another  way  to  beat  is  to  use  a  circular  motion.  In 
this  case  the  side  of  the  spoon  is  kept  close  to  the  side 
of  the  bowl.  The  spoon  is  moved  rapidly  in  a  circle, 
carrying  with  it  a  portion  of  the  ingredients.  This  kind 
of  beating  can  be  applied  only  to  a  rather  thick  mixture. 
It  is  the  best  method  for  beating  butter  and  sugar  to  a 
cream. 


882         MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


How  to  Cream  Butter. 

If  the  butter  be  firm,  the  inside  of  the  bowl  in  which  it 
is  to  be  creamed  must  be  warmed.  Measure  the  butter. 
Pour  hot  water  into  the  bowl,  and  let  it  stand  for  about 
one  minute ;  then  pour  it  out,  and  wipe  the  bowl.  Put 
in  the  butter,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Work  it  on 
the  bottom  of  the  bowl  until  it  becomes  soft ;  then  beat 
it  until  it  is  light  and  smooth  by  rapidly  moving  the 
spoon  in  a  circle.  In  about  two  minutes  it  will  be  a 
light,  creamy  mass,  and  be  ready  for  the  addition  of  any 
other  ingredient,  as  sugar  or  flour.  If  sugar  is  to  be 
added,  beat  in  only  a  little  at  a  time.  The  work  can  be 
done  more  quickly  and  with  less  outlay  of  strength  than 
if  all  the  sugar  were  added  at  once. 

Caution.  —  Do  not  let  the  hot  water  stand  long  enough 
in  the  bowl  for  the  outside  to  get  heated.  The  object  is 
to  heat  it  only  enough  to  soften  the  butter  so  that  the 
latter  can  be  beaten  to  a  cream.  It  should  never  be  so 
hot  as  to  melt  the  butter.  If  the  work  be  properly  done, 
the  bowl  will  be  cool  by  the  time  the  butter  is  soft. 

Butter  should  be  prepared  in  this  manner  for  cake  and 
pudding  sauces. 

How  to  Wash  Butter  for  Greasing  Pans. 

Rinse  a  bowl  in  boiling  water,  and  then  in  cold  water. 
Put  a  piece  of  butter  into  the  bowl,  and  after  covering  it 
with  cold  water,  work  it  with  a  spoon  or  with  the  hands 
until  all  the  salt  has  been  washed  out.  Pour  off  the 
water,  and  press  out  any  particles  that  may  remain  in 
the  butter.  Use  this  butter  for  buttering  cake  and  bread 
pans. 

How  to  Use  Butter-hands. 

Butter-hands  are  small  grooved  wooden  paddles.  The 
grooves  may  be  coarse  or  fine ;  the  fine  ones  make  the 
prettiest  forms.  An  illustration  is  given  on  page  53. 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  883 

Let  the  hands  stand  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes. 
Next  put  them  in  cold  water  for  five  minutes  or  longer  ; 
they  must  be  perfectly  cold  when  used.  Have  a  large 
bowl  half  full  of  cold  water;  in  hot  weather  have  a  little 
ice  in  the  water.  Cut  some  firm  butter  into  pieces  about 
the  size  of  a  hickory  nut.  Koll  these  pieces  between  the 
butter-hands  into  any  shape  you  please.  They  may  be 


Method  of  Using  Butter-hands. 

made  into  grooved  balls,  little  pineapples,  scrolls,  etc. 
Dip  the  hands  frequently  into  the  ice- water.  Lay  the 
pats  on  a  large  dish,  and  when  all  are  done  put  them  in 
the  refrigerator. 

These  little  pieces  of  butter  may  be  arranged  on  a  flat 
dish,  and  garnished  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley.  In 
hot  weather  they  may  be  served  on  a  bed  of  broken  ice. 

How  to  Make  Vegetable  Balls. 

Much  of  the  beauty  of  a  dish  served  a  la  jardiniere 
depends  upon  the  manner  in  which  the  vegetables  are 
cut.  They  may  be  cut  into  dice,  and  a  good  effect  be 
produced  if  the  cutting  be  regular.  Little  vegetable- 
scoops  and  fluted  knives  make  it  possible  to  produce 
very  attractive  forms  and  combinations.  The  scoops 


884 


MISS  PAELOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


come  in  several  sizes,  and  balls  can  be  made  from  the 
size  of  a  large  pea  to  that  of  a  hickory  nut.  The  large 
scoops  are  chiefly  used  for  potato  balls  when  the  balls 
are  to  be  served  alone,  either  boiled,  fried,  or  sauted. 
The  small  scoops  are  for  all  kinds  of  vegetables  when 

they    are    used    as    a 

garnish  in  soups  and 

entrees. 
The  vegetables  must 

be     pared     carefully, 

T,  the  surface  being  kept 

Vegetable-scoops. 

smooth  and   rounded. 

Put  them  in  cold  water  as  fast  as  they  are  pared.  When 
all  are  ready,  begin  making  the  balls.  Take  the  vege- 
table in  the  left  hand,  and  the  scoop  in  the  right.  Select 
the  most  rounding  part  of  the  vegetable,  and  press  the 
scoop  into  it.  Work  the  scoop  with  a  twisting  motion 
until  it  is  nearly  buried  in  the  vegetable.  Now  turn  the 
scoop  to  the  right,  and  then  to  the  left,  and  the  piece  of 


How  to  Make  Vegetable  Balls. 

vegetable  will  come  out  perfectly  round.  Drop  the  balls 
in  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  When  all  the  pieces  possible 
have  been  taken  from  the  vegetable,  drop  what  remains 
in  cold  water,  —  it  can  be  used  for  stews  or  soups,  or  it 
may  be  boiled  and  mashed. 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS   SHOULD   KNOW.    885 


How  and  "When  to  Serve  Olives. 

The  most  attractive  way  to  serve  oli\res  is  to  drain 
them,  and  then  place  them  on  a  bed  of  broken  ice  in  a 
small  fancy  dish.  Olives  are  served  at  luncheons,  din- 
ners, and  suppers.  They  are  usually  placed  on  the  table 
at  the  beginning  of  the  meal,  and  remain  to  the  end. 

How  to  Serve  Sardines. 

For  serving  sardines  small  covered  dishes  come  in 
pretty  designs  and  various  qualities  of  china;  but  if 
one  lack  such  dishes,  any  small  fancy  dishes  will  answer 
the  purpose.  Drain  the  oil  from  the  fish,  and  place  them 
in  the  dish.  Cover  them  with  fresh  olive  oil  or  not,  as 
you  please.  Tastes  differ  as  to  serving  them  with  or 
without  the  fresh  oil.  Place  a  dish  of  quartered  lemons 
near  the  sardines. 

How  to  Butter  and  Roll  Bread. 

Cut  off  all  the  crust  of  a  loaf  of  fresh  bread.  Spread 
a  thin  layer  of  butter  on  one  end  of  the  loaf.  Cut  off 
this  buttered  end  in  as  thin  a  slice  as  possible.  Koll  up 
this  slice,  having  the  buttered  side  inward,  and  lay  it  on 
i  napkin.  Continue  buttering  and  making  the  rolls  until 
nearly  all  the  loaf  has  been  used.  Draw  the  napkin 
firmly  around  the  rolled  bread,  and  pin  it.  Put  it  in  a 
cold  place  for  several  hours.  Rolled  bread  is  nice  to  serve 
with  raw  oysters,  or  at  a  supper  or  a  luncheon  party. 

How  to  Make  and  Bake  a  M6ringue. 

Meringues  are  used  constantly  on  pies,  puddings,  and 
various  dishes  for  dessert,  and  yet  not  one  cook  in  a 
hundred  is  ever  sure  of  the  result. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  Take 
out  the  beater,  and  with  a  silver  spoon  beat  in  powdered, 
sugar.  Sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  on  the  egg, 


886          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  beat  it  in  with  the  spoon,  taking  long  upward  strokes. 
Continue  this  until  all  the  sugar  has  been  beaten  in ; 
then  add  the  flavor,  if  there  be  any.  This  also  must  be 
beaten  in.  When  done,  the  meringue  should  be  light, 
firm,  and  comparatively  dry.  Use  one  table-spoonful  of 
sugar  to  each  white  of  an  egg. 

Always  bake  a  me'ringue  in  a  cool  oven.  If  it  be 
cooked  for  twenty  minutes  with  the  oven  door  open,  it 
will  be  firm  and  fine-grained.  Let  it  cool  rather  slowly. 
If  a  sugary  crust  be  liked,  sift  powdered  sugar  over  it 
before  it  is  placed  in  the  oven.  Should  the  me'ringue  be 
not  brown  enough  at  the  end  of  twenty  minutes,  close 
the  oven  door  for  a  few  minutes.  Watch  carefully  to 
prevent  it  from  cooking  too  much. 

The  principal  causes  of  failure  are,  that  the  sugar  is 
stirred  into  the  white  of  the  egg,  which  results  in  a 
heavy  watery  mixture,  or  that  the  meringue  is  baked 
in  a  hot  oven.  Too  great  heat  causes  the  me'ringuc  to 
rise  and  then  fall,  making  it  tough  and  thin. 

How  to  Grate  Bread  Crumbs. 

These  crumbs  are  used  in  making  dressing  for  poultry, 
and  with  all  escaloped  dishes.  The  bread  should  be 
stale,  but  not  dry.  Baker's  or  home-made  bread  may  be 
used.  A  five-cent  loaf  of  baker's  bread  will  make  about 
two  quarts  of  crumbs. 

Cut  the  loaf  in  the  middle,  lengthwise.  Cut  these  two 
pieces  in  halves,  thus  getting  four  pieces  with  one  side 
crust  and  the  other  crumb.  Hold  a  coarse  grater  over  a 
large  platter.  Grate  the  bread  on  this,  having  the  crumb 
side  on  the  grater.  Use  very  little  pressure  until  nearing 
the  crust,  when  a  good  deal  of  pressure  will  be  required. 
The  brown  crust  which  cannot  be  grated  should  be  dried, 
pounded,  and  sifted. 

If  in  grating  the  crumb  side  of  the  loaf  much  pres- 
sure be  used,  the  crumbs  will  be  coarse  and  heavy.  By 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  887 

rubbing  lightly  on  the  grater,  quite  fresh  bread  may  be 
grated  very  satisfactorily.  Kemeraber  that  grated  crumbs 
are  used  for  escaloped  dishes  and  dressing,  and  dried 
crumbs  for  breading. 

How  to  Dry  Bread  Crumbs. 

All  the  crusts  and  pieces  of  yeast  bread  should  be 
saved.  Do  not  wait  for  a  large  quantity  to  accumulate. 
The  bread-box  should  be  wiped  out  every  morning,  and 
all  pieces  not  intended  for  the  table  or  other  purposes 
should  be  spread  in  a  pan,  and  the  pan  be  placed  in  a 
warm  oven  or  on  a  shelf  over  the  range.  When  they 
become  so  dry  that  they  will  crumble  between  the  fingers, 
put  them  into  a  bag  made  of  strong  cloth  or  ticking. 
With  a  wooden  mallet,  pound  the  bread  until  it  is  re- 
duced to  fine  crumbs.  Sift  these  crumbs,  and  put  them 
away  in  boxes  or  glass  jars.  They  will  always  be  ready 
for  breading  purposes.  It  is  only  a  little  work  to  do  this 
in  leisure  moments. 


How  to  Fry  Crumbs. 

Fried  crumbs  are  used  with  small  and  large  birds  and 
with  some  kinds  of  soup.  To  prepare  them,  dry  pieces 
of  bread  until  they  will  crumble  between  the  fingers. 
Place  the  bread  on  a  board,  and  crush  lightly  with  a 
rolling-pin.  Most  of  the  crumbs  should  be  so  coarse 
that  they  will  not  pass  through  a  flour-sieve.  Put  all  in 
a  sieve,  and  shake  the  fine  ones  through  (they  may  be 
saved  for  breading  or  for  a  bread  sauce).  Measure  the 
coarse  crumbs,  and  for  each  cupful  put  into  a  frying-pan 
two  level  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Place  the  pan  on 
the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  becomes  hot,  add  the 
crumbs.  Stir  over  the  fire  constantly  until  the  crumbs 
are  brown  and  crisp. 

Baker's  bread  is  the  best  for  these  crumbs. 


888          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

About  Breading  Articles  for  Frying. 

Tliis  is  a  simple  operation,  but  it  is  rarely  well  done. 
A  little  care  is  all  that  is  required  for  a  perfect  result. 
The  crumbs  should  be  dry  and  fine.  Either  bread  or 
cracker  may  be  used,  but  in  most  cases  the  bread  crumbs 
are  the  best. 

Put  the  egg  in  a  deep  plate,  and  beat  it  thoroughly 
with  a  spoon,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  light.  Have  the 
crumbs  in  another  plate,  or  they  may  be  spread  in  a  thick 
bed  on  a  board.  Have  the  article  that  is  to  be  breaded 
seasoned  well  with  salt,  and  slightly  with  pepper,  if  the 
latter  be  used  at  all.  Put  the  article  in  the  egg,  and 
with  a  table-spoon  dip  up  and  pour  the  egg  over  every 
part  of  it.  Not  a  spot  should  escape  the  coating.  Take 
the  article  from  the  egg,  and  roll  it  in  the  dried  crumbs, 
being  careful  that  every  part  is  covered.  Lay  the 
breaded  food  on  a  flat  dish  or  on  the  board,  until  dry. 

Never  place  one  breaded  article  on  another  when 
drying  or  frying.  When  ready  to  fry,  shake  off  the 
loose  crumbs.  Place  in  the  wire  basket,  being  careful 
not  to  crowd.  Fish,  meat,  croquettes,  etc.,  when  dry 
after  breading,  can  be  placed  in  the  refrigerator  until  the 
time  for  frying.  They  will  keep  for  twelve  hours  or 
longer. 

Sometimes  a  very  thick  crust  is  desired  on  some  kinds 
of  food.  In  that  case  bread  all  the  articles,  and  when 
they  are  dry,  give  them  a  second  coat  of  egg  and 
crumbs. 

How  to  Dissolve  Gelatine. 

If  gelatine  be  covered  with  water  and  placed  on  the 
hearth  or  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  it  will  melt  in  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  ;  but  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  it  will  be 
strong-flavored,  and  will  spoil  whatever  it  is  added  to. 
This  is  the  reason  that  gelatine  is  not  fully  appreciated 
by  many  housekeepers.  If  the  gelatine  be  soaked  in 


WHAT  ALL   HOUSEKEEPERS   SHOULD  KNOW.     889 

cold  water  for  two  or  more  hours,  and  then  have  boiling 
water  or  milk  poured  on  it,  it  will  dissolve  immediately, 
and  rarely  will  have  taste  or  odor.  Here  is  a  good  rule  : 
Put  a  box  of  gelatine  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  over  it  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water.  Cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  for  two 
hours  or  more.  When  ready  to  use  it,  add  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  or  the  same  quantity  of  boiling  milk  if 
milk  is  to  be  used.  Stir  for  a  few  minutes,  and  the 
gelatine  will  be  dissolved. 

How  to   Flavor  Sugar. 

it  a  housekeeper  does  not  like  to  use  extracts,  she 
may  prepare  flavored  sugars  and  have  them  for  use  when 
it  is  not  convenient  to  obtain  the  fresh  fruit.  These 
sugars  must  be  put  into  bottles  and  tightly  corked.  Self- 
sealing  jars  are  excellent  for  this  purpose. 

How  to  Make  Various  Kinds  of  Sugar. 

Orange  Sugar.  —  Cut  off  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  twelve 
oranges.  Spread  this  on  a  platter,  and  put  in  a  warm, 
dry  place  to  dry.  When  it  is  dry,  which  will  be  in  about 
forty-eight  hours,  put  half  of  it  in  a  mortar  with  one 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Pound  the  mixture  to  a 
powder,  and  then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  If  there 
should  be  some  coarse  particles  left  in  the  sieve,  return 
them  to  the  mortar  and  pound  again.  When  all  are 
done,  put  the  second  half  of  the  peel  and  a  cupful  of 
sugar  in  the  mortar,  and  proceed  as  before.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  this  will  flavor  a  quart  of  custard  or  cream. 

Orange  Zest.  —  This  is  another  form  of  orange  sugar. 
Only  the  oily  particles  of  the  orange  peel  are  added  to 
the  sugar.  Rub  lumps  of  loaf  sugar  on  the  outside  of 
an  orange  until  they  are  coated  with  the  oil  from  the 
peel;  a  good  deal  of  pressure  must  be  used  to  break 
the  oil  vessels.  Pound  this  sugar  in  the  mortar,  and 


890          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

bottle  for  use.  Leinon  zest  is  made  in  the  same 
manner. 

Lemon  Sugar.  —  Make  the  lemon  sugar  the  same  as 
the  orange. 

Orange  Flower  Sugar.  —  Put  one  cupful  of  orange  petals 
in  a  mortar  with  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Pound 
to  a  powder,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Dry  in  a  warm 
oven,  and  bottle  for  use.  Or  the  orange  flowers  may  be 
dried  before  being  pounded,  and  then  the  sugar  may  be 
bottled  at  once. 

Rose  Sugar.  —  Spread  rose  leaves  on  a  flat  dish,  and 
dry  them  in  a  warm  oven.  Put  one  pint  of  the  dried 
leaves  in  the  mortar,  with  half  a  pint  of  granulated 
sugar.  Pound  to  a  powder;  rub  through  a  sieve,  and 
bottle. 

Vanilla  Sugar.  —  Cut  one  ounce  of  the  vanilla  bean 
into  small  pieces.  Mix  these  with  half  a  pint  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  pound  to  a  powder  in  a  mortar.  Eub 
through  a  fine  sieve ;  return  the  coarse  particles  to  the 
mortar,  and  pound  again. 

Some  of  the  vanilla  bean  will  be  too  coarse  to  go 
through  the  sieve  after  the  second  pounding.  Bottle  this 
separately,  and  use  it  to  flavor  boiled  custards. 

How  to  Make  Caramel. 

Put  any  amount  of  sugar  desired  in  a  frying-pan  or  a 
granite-ware  saucepan.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar 
dissolves  and  turns  brown.  Now  add  hot  water  equal 
in  quantity  to  the  sugar,  and  let  the  mixture  simmer 
until  all  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  The  sugar  becomes  per- 
fectly liquid  when  stirred  over  a  hot  fire;  but  as  soon 
as  the  water,  or  any  other  liquid,  is  added,  it  hardens. 
If  it  be  allowed  to  simmer  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  the 
sugar  dissolves  again,  and  a  clear  syrup  is  formed.  If 
the  syrup  be  desired  thick,  in  order  that  the  caramel 
may  be  used  for  seasoning  a  mousse,  or  for  coloring 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  891 

soups  or  sauces,  the  syrup  may  be  allowed  to  simmer  for 
half  an  hour  or  more. 

When  the  caramel  is  intended  for  a  flavor  for  desserts 
or  pudding  sauces,  the  sugar  should  be  stirred  until  it 
begins  to  show  bubbles  and  to  smoke.  It  must  then  be 
taken  from  the  fire  instantly,  if  a  delicate  flavor  be 
desired;  but  if  a  strong  flavor  be  liked,  stir  for  about 
one-quarter  of  a  minute  longer. 

When  the,,  caramel  is  to  be  used  to  color  soups  or 
sauces,  however,  the  cooking  should  continue  for  about 
a  minute  after  the  sugar  begins  to  boil. 

When  the  water  is  added  to  the  sugar,  it  should  be 
poured  from  a  long-handled  dipper,  or  there  will  be 
danger  of  the  hot  sugar  and  water  spattering  on  to  the 
hands. 

When  caramel  is  used  for  coloring  soups  and  sauces, 
add  only  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  as  it  spoils  a  delicate 
soup  to  add  a  drop  too  much.  One  of  the  safest  and 
most  satisfactory  colorings  for  soups  and  sauces  is 
Madame  Perrin's  Pate  Fra^aise.  This  French  paste 
comes  in  small  tin  boxes,  each  containing  twenty-five 
little  caramels.  One  caramel  dissolved  in  two  quarts 
of  soup  will  give  it  a  rich  brown  color,  or  a  small  piece 
of  a  caramel  will  give  just  the  bit  of  color  that  a  sauce 
may  lack.  The  boxes  cost  twenty-five  cents  apiece. 
This  paste  is  for  sale  at  Lidgerwood's,  corner  of  Broad- 
way and  Thirteenth  Street,  New  York.  In  Boston  it 
may  be  obtained  of  S.  S.  Pierce  &  Co.,  or  of  Raymond 
&  Fox,  both  on  Tremont  Street. 

How  to  Get  Onion  Juice. 

Pare  an  onion,  and  cut  it  into  four  pieces.  Put  one  or 
two  of  these  pieces  in  a  wooden  lemon-squeezer,  and 
squeeze  hard.  One  large  juicy  onion  will  yield  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  juice.  Of  course,  if  only  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  juice  be  required,  only  one-quarter  of  the  onion 


892          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

need  be  squeezed.  The  lemon-squeezer  must  not  be  used 
for  anything  else.  If  one  has  not  an  extra  squeezer  for 
this  purpose,  the  juice  may  be  obtained  by  pressing  the 
onion  on  a  coarse  grater,  or  by  bruising  the  onion  with 
the  blunt  edge  of  a  knife,  and  then  pressing  hard  with 
the  flat  blade.  Neither  of  these  methods  last  mentioned 
will  extract  more  than  a  table-spoonful  of  juice  from  a 
large  onion. 

How  Garlic  Vinegar  is  Made. 

Pare  and  slice  a  dozen  cloves  of  garlic ;  put  them  in  a 
preserving-jar  with  one  pint  of  vinegar ;  cover,  and  set 
away  for  two  weeks ;  then  strain  into  a  bottle.  One  tea- 
spoonful  of  this  vinegar  added  to  a  potato  salad  gives  it 
a  delicate  flavor  of  garlic. 

How  to  Make  Tarragon  Vinegar 

Put  two  bunches  of  fresh  tarragon  in  a  quart  preserve- 
jar  ;  fill  the  jar  with  white-wine  vinegar ;  cover,  and 
set  away  in  a  cool,  dark  place  for  two  or  three  weeks. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  strain  the  vinegar,  and  bottle  it. 
Fill  the  jar  with  fresh  vinegar,  and  put  away.  It  will 
be  ready  for  use  in  a  month,  but  it  need  not  be  strained 
until  the  first  quantity  has  been  used.  This  vinegar 
is  a  great  addition  to  any  kind  of  salad  and  to  many 
sauces. 

The  Way  to  Make  Chervil  Vinegar. 

Chervil  vinegar  is  made  like  the  tarragon,  and  is  used 
in  the  same  way. 

An  Easy  Way  to  Kill  a  Lobster. 

When  a  live  lobster  is  required  for  broiling  or  other 
purposes,  this  will  be  found  a  simple  and  comparatively 
painless  mode  of  killing  it.  Run  a  long  narrow-bladed 


WHAT  ALL   HOUSEKEEPERS   SHOULD   KNOW.     893 

knife  into  the  tail  at  the  third  joint  from  the  end,  hav- 
ing the  blade  slant  downward.  This  will  cut  the  spinal 
cord,  and  death  will  quickly  follow. 

How  to  Preserve  Lobster  Coral. 

At  some  seasons  of  the  year  it  is  difficult  to  get  the 
coral  of  the  lobster.  Indeed,  during  the  summer  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  get  enough  to  color  a  soup  or 
sauce. 

When  a  large  quantity  of  coral  is  found  in  a  lobster, 
all  that  is  not  required  for  immediate  use  should  be  put 
into  a  jar  and  covered  with  vinegar.  It  will  keep  a  long 
time.  When  it  is  to  be  used,  soak  it  for  one  hour  in 
water,  and  then  for  an  hour  in  milk.  Wipe  it  dry,  and 
use  it  the  same  as  if  fresh. 

How  to  Dry  Parsley  and  Chervil. 

Parsley  and  chervil  should  be  dried  in  two  ways. 
When  the  herbs  are  to  be  used  in  a  powdered  form,  tie 
them  in  bunches,  and  hang  them  in  a  dry,  shady  place. 
Keep  them  in  bags  or  boxes.  When  the  herbs  are  to 
be  used  in  a  minced  form  in  sauces,  salads,  and  soups, 
another  method  must  be  followed.  Tie  the  herbs  in 
bunches ;  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  and  cover  them  with  boil- 
ing water ;  immediately  pour  off  the  water,  and  hang  the 
herbs  in  a  dry,  shady  place.  When  dry,  put  them  in 
boxes  or  paper  bags.  When  required  for  use,  break  off 
the  quantity  desired ;  soak  in  cold  water  for  ten  minutes, 

and  the  herbs  will  be  ready  for  use. 

J 

How  to  Make  Lime  Water. 

Put  about  a  pound  of  unslacked  lime  in  a  large  bowl ; 
pour  over  this  three  quarts  of  boiling  water ;  let  it  stand 
for  ten  minutes  ;  then  stir  well  with  a  stick.  Place  the 
bowl  in  a  cool  place  for  eight  or  ten  hours  ;  at  the  end 


894          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

of  that  time  pour  off  the  clear  water,  letting  the  sedi- 
ment remain  in  the  bottom  of  the  bowl.  Bottle  the 
clear  water,  and  keep  in  a  convenient  place.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  this  may  be  added  to  a  glass  of  milk  to  be 
given  to  a  patient  with  an  acid  stomach. 

In  case  of  burns,  cover  the  burned  parts  with  a  cloth 
wet  in  lime-water ;  keep  the  cloth  wet  by  pouring  on  a 
little  of  the  water  as  often  as  the  cloth  dries. 

What  Devonshire  Cream  is,  and  its  Uses. 

Put  a  pan  of  milk  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  place  the  pan  on  the 
back  of  the  range,  and  heat  the  milk  slowly  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, being  careful  not  to  let  it  boil.  Put  the  pan 
in  a  cool  place  for  six  or  twelve  hours.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  skim  off  the  cream,  which  will  be  found  firm, 
and  of  a  peculiarly  sweet  flavor. 

In  very  hot  weather  the  milk  may  be  scalded  after 
it  has  stood  for  twelve  hours.  This  cream  is  eaten  on 
mush,  fruit,  blanc-mange,  toast,  etc. 

How  to  Stone  Raisins. 

Free  the  raisins  from  stems,  and  then  put  them  in  a 
bowl.  Cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  let  them  stand 
for  two  minutes.  Pour  off  the  water ;  open  the  raisins, 
and  the  seeds  can  be  removed  quickly  and  easily  without 
the  usual  stickiness. 

How  to  Keep  Food  in  a  Refrigerator. 

Food  that  has  little  odor  itself,  and  food  that  absorbs 
odors  readily  should  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  re- 
frigerator. All  foods  with  a  strong  odor  should  be  kept 
on  the  top  shelves.  Sour  milk  or  cream  should  not  be 
kept  in  the  refrigerator.  Salad  dressings,  Tartar  sauce, 
and  celery  should  be  covered  closely,  or  they  will  flavor 


WHAT  ALL   HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD   KNOW.     895 

everything  that  is  shut  up  with  them.  Pineapple,  straw- 
berries, and  raspberries  should  not  be  shut  into  a  common 
ice-chest  with  milk  or  cream.  In  the  refrigerators  where 
there  is  a  circulation  of  dry  air,  butter,  milk,  cream,  and 
other  delicate  foods  may  be  kept  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
refrigerator,  and  the  fruits,  vegetables,  etc.,  with  stronger 
flavors  and  odors  may  be  kept  on  the  top  shelves.  If 
arranged  in  this  way,  there  will  be  little  danger  that  one 
kind  of  food  will  absorb  the  flavor  or  odor  of  another. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  a  small  dish  of  powdered 
charcoal  on  one  of  the  upper  shelves  of  the  refrigerator, 
as  it  is  an  excellent  absorbent  of  odors.  It  should  be 
changed  every  few  days. 

The  refrigerator  must  be  perfectly  clean,  and  with 
these  precautions  there  need  be  no  trouble  in  keeping 
all  kinds  of  food  in  a  good  refrigerator.  People  who 
live  in  flats  are  so  dependent  on  this  mode  of  keeping 
the  daily  supply  of  food  that  too  much  care  cannot  be 
used  to  have  the  refrigerator  sweet  and  healthful. 

How  to  Prepare  Liquid  Cochineal. 

Put  into  a  small  saucepan  half  a  cupful  of  water,  half 
an  ounce  of  powdered  cochineal,  a  level  table-spoonful  of 
cream-of-tartar,  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a  large  pea, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Place  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  let  the  liquid  cool 
slightly.  Put  a  small  tunnel  in  the  mouth  of  a  small 
bottle ;  place  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  over  the  tunnel, 
pressing  it  down  a  little.  Pour  the  liquid  on  the  cheese- 
cloth, and  strain  it  into  the  bottle.  With  a  teaspoon 
press  as  much  of  the  cochineal  as  possible  through  the 
sieve.  Cork  the  bottle,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dark  place. 
All  the  work  must  be  done  carefully ;  for  if  a  drop  of 
the  cochineal  falls  on  the  fingers  or  table,  it  makes  a 
stain  that  will  last  a  good  while.  A  few  drops  of  this 


896          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

preparation  will  color  an  icing,  a  cream,  or  a  jelly.     It 
will  keep  several  months. 

How  to  Make  Soft  Soap. 

All  the  strong-flavored  fats,  such  as  the  fat  of  mutton, 
goose,  and  turkey,  should  be  tried  out  and  strained  while 
fresh  and  sweet.  Keep  this  strained  fat  by  itself,  and 
use  it  when  soft  soap  is  to  be  made.  If  it  be  strained 
into  five-pound  lard-cans,  there  will  be  no  trouble  about 
weighing  or  measuring  it  at  the  time  of  making  the 
soap. 

To  make  nine  gallons  of  soap  put  into  a  large  kettle  a 
pound  can  of  Babbitt's  pure  potash  and  one  quart  of 
water.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  add  a  five-pound  can  of  grease, 
and  boil  slowly  an  hour  longer,  stirring  frequently  with 
a  wooden  stick.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  pour  the  boiling- 
mixture  into  a  large  soap-tub.  Stirjnto  this  two  gallons 
of  hot  water.  In  about  fifteen  minutes  add  two  more 
gallons  of  hot  water.  Stir  well,  and  add  four  gallons  and 
a  half  of  water,  this  last  quantity  to  be  either  hot  or  cold, 
as  suits  your  convenience.  Stir  the  soap  three  or  four 
times  in  the  next  hour.  When  cold,  it  will  be  thick  and 
white. 

What  to  Do  if  Fat  Boils  Over. 

Everybody  who  reads  the  newspapers  knows  that  fires 
are  frequently  caused  by  fat  boiling  so  high  in  the  kettle 
in  which  it  has  been  placed  that  it  escapes  over  the  sides 
of  the  utensil  and  falls  upon  the  stove.  In  such  cases 
the  common  impulse  of  most  spectators,  in  their  desire 
to  extinguish  the  blaze,  is  to  do  what  is  realkr,  the  worst 
thing  possible,  —  throw  water  on  the  fire.  .,|  pt/volume  of 
water  may  put  out  the  blaze  quickly,  but  'a  pailful  only 
spreads  the  flames.  Firemen  say  that  ashes  are  the  best 
extinguisher  at  all  likely  to  be  at  hajid.  If  fat  boils 


WHAT  ALL  HOUSEKEEPERS  SHOULD  KNOW.  897 

over,  a  woman  should  immediately  run  for  aid,  unless 
she  knows  that  there  is  none  within  call,  or  is  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  have  a  pan  of  ashes  or  a  quantity  of  sand  near 
by,  and  to  have  means  of  speedy  retreat  in  case  her 
attempt  to  smother  the  flames  fails.  Possibly  many 
fires  might  be  prevented  from  causing  any  loss  if  women 
kept  boxes  of  sand  near  the  stove  whenever  frying  food 
of  any  kind. 

A  woman's  clothes  may  be  set  on  fire  when  fat  boils 
over,  or  possibly  at  some  other  time  when  she  is  in  the 
kitchen.  Scientists  assert  that  if  a  woman  will  lie  down 
in  such  an  emergency  the  flames  will  become  for  the  while 
almost  harmless,  and  time  will  be  gained  for  further 
action.  Any  bystander  who  has  the  quick  wit  in  such  a 
case  to  spread  a  woollen  garment  or  a  rug  over  the  suf- 
ferer to  exclude  the  air,  may  save  a  life.  Perhaps  the 
woman,  if  alone,  can  extinguish  the  flames  herself  by 
rolling  over.  The  great  point  to  bear  in  mind  is  the 
wisdom  of  lying  down  as  quickly  as  possible,  though,  of 
course,  no  woman  wants  to  lie  down  in  a  room  that  is  all 
ablaze.  In  case  her  misfortune  be  due  to  the  boiling-over 
of  fat  she  should  get  out  of  the  room,  perhaps  go  out  of 
doors,  instantly,  and  then  lie  down  at  once.  She  nerer 
should  run. 


67 


898          MISS  PAELOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BILLS    OF     FARE. 

AMONG  housekeepers  who  do  their  own  work  there  is 
too  often  a  feeling  that  if  the  food  which  is  set  before 
the  family  be  wholesome  and  plentiful,  there  need  be  no 
thought  of  the  manner  in  which  it  is  put  upon  the  table. 
Yet  even  if  the  fare  be  very  simple  and  one's  means  be 
small,  it  is  possible  to  serve  dishes  in  such  a  way  as  to 
convey  instruction  in  good  manners  at  each  meal.  Take 
some  of  the  dinner  bills  of  fare  in  this  chapter.  Many 
readers  may  say  :  "  Four  courses  !  That 's  too  elaborate ; 
I  shall  not  try  to  carry  it  out."  Nevertheless,  if  the 
soup  be  omitted,  and  other  slight  changes  made,  there 
will  be  no  more  in  the  bill  than  families  in  moderate  cir- 
cumstances commonly  have  for  dinner.  But  little  ad- 
ditional labor  and  few  extra  dishes  are  required  when 
the  dinner  is  divided  into  courses ;  and  one's  appetite  is 
likely  to  be  better,  and  the  table  will  certainly  look 
better  than  when  all  the  food  is  put  on  at  once.  Haste 
in  eating  may  also  be  prevented;  and  it  should  be  re- 
membered that  haste  induces  dyspepsia,  no  matter  how 
good  the  cooking  may  be.  Let  housekeepers  study  the 
composition  of  bills  of  fare  ;  and  although  they  may  not 
see  fit  to  follow  them  exactly  as  published,  they  ought  in 
time  to  acquire  considerable  useful  knowledge,  and  be 
able  to  see  the  wisdom  of  serving  meals  in  courses,  as 
well  as  to  learn  how  to  adapt  commended  bills  of  fare  to 
their  own  circumstances. 

Breakfast. 

To  no  meal  do  we  come  with  more  variable  appetites  than  break- 
fast :  therefore  the  housekeeper  should  give  special  attention  to  the 


BILLS  OF  FARE.  899 


preparation  and  serving  of  the  food  which  must  suffice  for  the 
majority  of  people  through  the  hardest  labor  of  the  day.  The  pe- 
riod between  supper,  or  dinner,  and  breakfast  on  the  morrow  is 
about  twelve  hours  ;  the  stomach  is  in  an  exhausted  condition  in  the 
morning,  and  the  food  designed  for  it  should  be  appetizing  and  not 
heavy.  The  aim  should  be  to  have  the  dishes  light,  hot,  nutritious, 
and  inviting. 

Arrangements  for  the  meal  should  not  be  deferred  until  late  at 
night,  but  should  receive  attention  in  the  morning,  when  plans  are 
being  made  for  dinner,  or  luncheon,  and  supper.  In  this  way  it  is 
easy  to  arrange  for  the  meal  so  that  it  can  be  well  cooked  and  prop- 
erly served,  —  not  in  the  hurried,  unsatisfactory  manner  so  common 
in  many  households. 

To  many  people  a  chop,  cutlet,  or  steak  is  a  necessity  every  morn- 
ing; whereas  to  others  anything  so  solid  is  unacceptable  in  the 
then  weak  condition  of  the  stomach.  One  rule  will  not  apply  to  all 
persons  with  regard  to  food  any  more  than  with  regard  to  medicine. 
Probably  almost  every  person  who  is  not  usually  fastidious  or  un- 
reasonable about  his  food  is,  nevertheless,  at  times  strongly  averse 
to  tasting  a  dish  that  is  generally  inviting  and  palatable.  This 
fact  is  noticeable  at  breakfast  more  than  at  any  other  meal,  but  is 
seen  also  when  one  has  gone  too  long  without  food,  or  has  become 
anxious,  nervous,  or  extremely  tired.  In  such  cases  light  food 
should  be  provided,  and  it  should  be  eaten  slowly.  A  crust  of  well- 
baked  bread,  thoroughly  masticated,  will  frequently  bring  the  appe- 
tite back  to  a  healthy  condition. 

It  is  desirable  that  the  breakfast-room  should  be  orderly  and 
cheerful,  and  the  table  spread  with  as  much  care  as  for  the  most 
elaborate  meal  of  the  day.  It  is  well  to  begin  the  breakfast  with 
oatmeal,  hominy,  or  fruit. 


Family  Luncheons  and  Simple  Home  Dinners. 

So  long  as  late  dinners  are  necessary  or  agreeable  to  so  many 
families,  so  long  will  the  luncheon  be  an  important  meal,  especially 
where  there  are  children.  The  little  savory  dishes  which  can  be 
made  from  the  odds  and  ends  left  from  the  dinner  of  the  previous 
day,  and  all  the  thick,  nutritious  soups  which  are  so  simple  and  in- 
expensive, are  proper  for  this  meal.  In  planning  for  luncheon  it 
must  be  remembered  that  a  more  substantial  meal  i*  to  come  later, 


900          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

and  that  the  dishes  should  be  light  and  simple.  They  also  should  be 
hot.  A  soup  is  always  desirable,  and  there  should  be  plenty  of  good 
bread. 

Changes  Advisable  in  the  Spring. 

With  the  advent  of  spring,  a  feeling  of  debility  and  lack  of  ap- 
petite may  be  expected.  For  such  troubles  it  is  wiser  to  seek  relief 
by  a  change  of  food  rather  than  by  the  use  of  bitters  or  other  medi- 
cine. The  heavy,  rich  dishes  which  have  been  enjoyed  during  the 
winter  should  give  place  to  those  of  a  lighter  kind.  For  breakfast, 
eggs,  cooked  by  various  modes,  with  perhaps  a  little  relish  of  ham 
or  bacon,  and  toast,  hashes,  etc.,  should  be  served  instead  of  steaks 
and  chops.  Fish,  and  the  lighter  kinds  of  meat,  with  vegetables 
and  salads,  should  be  used  for  dinner. 


A  Tempting  Table  in  Warm  Weather. 

During  hot  weather  housekeepers  should  constantly  bear  in  mind 
the  wisdom  of  appealing  to  the  eye  as  well  as  to  the  palate.  In  the 
morning,  when  the  system  feels  debilitated,  it  is  particularly  advis- 
able not  only  to  have  the  right  kind  of  food  and  have  it  cooked 
nicely,  but  also  to  serve  it  in  ways  that  will  be  likely  to  awaken  an 
appetite  at  once.  Perhaps  nothing  so  quickly  refreshes  one  on  com- 
ing to  the  breakfast-table  in  summer  as  the  sight  of  broken  ice  and 
something  green.  If  berries  are  to  form  a  part  of  the  meal,  put  in 
the  centre  of  a  large  flat  dish — glass  or  china  —  a  small  shallow 
dish  filled  with  broken  ice,  and  heap  the  fruit  round  it.  If  bananas 
be  the  fruit  chosen  to  begin  the  meal  with,  remove  half  the  peel 
and  arrange  the  bananas  in  an  attractive  way  on  a  dish  of  ice.  Sliced 
pineapple  looks  much  more  tempting  if  it  have  a  cool  bed,  and 
peaches  taste  better  if  cared  for  in  the  same  way.  A  few  green 
leaves  or  some  flowers,  bright  and  simple,  may  leave  such  a  pleasant 
impression  as  to  make  one  very  ready  to  come  to  breakfast  the  next 
day.  Some  people  relish  nothing  in  the  morning  more  than  sliced 
cucumbers,  sliced  tomatoes,  water-cresses,  the  heart  leaves  of  lettuce, 
and  other  uncooked  vegetables.  Such  dishes  must  be  thoroughly 
chilled  before  they  are  served.  Like  fruit,  they  will  look  much 
more  attractive  if  cracked  ice  be  used  as  an  accompaniment,  and 
will  give  the  table  an  appearance  of  coolness. 


BILLS  OF   FARE.  901 


During  the  summer  and  fall  the  wisest  housekeepers  are  particular 
to  be  generous  in  their  provision  of  fruit,  vegetables,  milk,  and  eggs 
for  the  table.  All  these  things  are  at  their  best  at  this  season,  and 
also  are  much  cheaper  than  at  any  other  time  of  the  year. 

In  summer,  use  those  vegetables  which  last  but  a  short  time  more 
frequently  than  those  which  may  be  obtained  throughout  the  season. 
While  asparagus  is  in  perfection,  use  it  freely.  This  advice  applies 
also  to  peas  and  string  beans  from  home  gardens,  and  young  beets 
and  carrots.  As  tomatoes  are  good  through  spring,  summer,  and 
fall,  use  them  less  frequently. 


IN    EMERGENCIES. 


What*  to  Serve  when  Unexpected  Guests  Come. 

If  one  live  in  the  city  and  have  unlimited  means,  the  unexpected 
necessity  of  entertaining  guests  at  luncheon  or  dinner  should  not 
disturb  her;  but  if  one  live  in  the  country,  away  from  stores,  or 
lack  that  abundance  of  money  which  will  enable  one  to  buy  the 
freshest  delicacies  or  whatever  else  may  be  desired  to  set  before 
company,  the  matter  of  preparing  a  special  meal  in  a  hurry  may 
tax  her  patience  considerably.  This  should  not  be  the  case  ^  house- 
keepers ought  to  feel  that  a  cordial  welcome  to  visitors  is  of  more 
consequence  than  the  preparation  of  fine  dishes  for  their  gratifi- 
cation. Many  a  passing  friend  loses  half  the  enjoyment  which 
might  be  derived  from  dining  with  the  family  because  of  a  feeling 
that  his  unlooked-for  coming  has  caused  considerable  embarrass- 
ment and  trouble  to  his  hostess,  whereas  the  knowledge  that  noth- 
ing had  been  done,  save  to  place  an  extra  plate  on  the  table,  would 
put  him  completely  at  ease.  Of  course,  if  the  family  be  small,  and 
more  than  one  guest  appear,  it  may  be  necessary  to  cook  more  food 
than  usual,  or  prepare  a  side  dish  of  some  kind,  if  the  meal  be  ready 
or  nearly  ready  before  the  visitors  appear.  It  is  presupposed  that  a 
substantial  meal  is  always  provided  for  the  family ;  for  this  should  be 
the  case.  Too  many  women  are  so  unwise  as  to  feel  satisfied  with 
a  carelessly  prepared  meal  when  it  is  for  themselves  alone ;  they 
ought  to  know  that  warm  and  nutritious  food  is  as  necessary  for 
their  health  as  for  men's. 


902 


MISS  PAKLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


But  to  return  to  the  matter  of  emergencies.  Imagine  that  there 
are  friends  at  the  door,  and,  by  some  mischance,  plans  have  not 
been  made  for  a  meal  to  which  the  housekeeper  would  be  willing  to 
invite  them.  In  half  an  hour  a  good  and  attractive  repast  may  be 
spread,  provided,  however,  that  the  pantry  or  storeroom  contains 
articles  for  use  on  just  such  occasions.  Here  is  a  list  of  goods 
which  it  is  well  to  keep  on  hand  in  quantities  to  be  determined  by 
the  size  of  the  family  and  the  probability  of  receiving  unexpected 
guests :  Canned  peas,  mixed  vegetables,  com,  tomatoes,  tongue, 
chicken,  salmon,  shrimps,  and  fruit ;  smoked  salmon,  smoked  bacon, 
dried  beef,  preserves,  olives,  olive  oil,  beef  extract,  condensed  milk 
(unless  one  be  able  to  get  fresh  milk  readily)  ;  fancy  crackers  and 
some  kinds  of  cakes,  —  none  are  better  than  those  which  are  rolled 
thin  and  baked  crisp,  if  they  be  kept  in  a  tin  box  and  in  a  dry  place ; 
eggs,  onions,  and  potatoes ;  rice,  hominy,  corn-meal,  graham,  corn- 
starch,  macaroni,  tea,  coffee,  and  chocolate,  cheese,  raisins,  and 
perhaps  figs  and  nuts. 

Below  are  given  bills  of  fare  for  luncheon  and  dinner  for  six  per- 
sons. All  the  dishes  for  luncheon  can  be  prepared  by  a  housekeeper 
of  average  ability  in  about  half  an  hour.  The  preparation  of  the 
dinners  will,  however,  require  twice  as  much  time. 


LUNCHEON. 

Terrapin  Chicken. 
Soiled  Mice.  French  Peas. 

Macedoine  Salad. 

Toatted  Crackers.    Canned  Peaches. 
Coffee. 

Dried  Beef,  Cream  Sauce. 

Puree  of  Potatoes.  Olives. 

Crackers.         Gingerbread. 

Chocolate. 


Broiled  Bacon.         Stewed  Potatoes. 

Scrambled  Eggs.     Corn  Muffins. 

Crackers.  Cheese.  Olives. 

Cake.  Preserves. 

Tea. 


Cold  Tongue. 
Macaroni,  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

French  Peas. 

Jelly  Omelet.  Fancy  Crackers. 

Chocolate. 


DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup.  Toasted  Bread. 

Curry  of  Shrimp  or  Chicken. 
Boiled  Rice.  Stewed  Corn. 

Welsh  Rare-bit. 
Corn-starch  Pudding, 

Strawberry  Sauce. 
Coffee. 


Potato  Soup. 

Broiled  Smoked  Salmon. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Omelet. 

Cream-of-Tartar  Biscuit. 

Marmalade.  Soda  Crackers. 

Tea. 


Green  Pea  Soup. 

Sliced  Canned   Tongue. 

Xfacedoine  of  Vegetables. 

French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Strawberry  Trifle.  Coffe 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


903 


COMPANY    BREAKFASTS. 

The  custom  of  giving  little  breakfast-parties  is  becoming  more 
common  every  year.  Literary  men  and  artists  are  especially  partial 
to  this  kind  of  entertainment.  The  dishes  for  this  meal  should  be 
as  simple  as  possible,  perfectly  cooked,  and  served  hot.  Some  host- 
esses, in  their  desire  to  give  elaborate  breakfasts,  overreach  the 
mark,  and  instead  of  serving  a  simple,  elegant  breakfast,  they  pro- 
vide what  is  really  a  dinner.  This  is  in  as  bad  taste  as  if  the  guests 
came  to  breakfast  in  full  dress. 

The  hours  for  a  company  breakfast  are  from  nine  to  twelve 
o'clock.  The  sooner  after  nine  o'clock  a  breakfast  can  be  served, 
the  better.  When  people  have  fasted  too  long  they  may  not  so 
agreeable  as  under  more  favorable  circumstances ;  or  if  the  break- 
fast be  so  late  that  they  are  obliged  to  take  a  light  meal  before 
coming,  they  will  not  be  in  a  condition  fully  to  appreciate  what  the 
host  or  hostess  has  prepared  for  their  pleasure. 

Here  are  a  few  bills  of  fare  that  may  help  the  young  housekeeper 
in  planning  to  give  a  breakfast  of  this  kind. 


IN  THE  SPRING. 

Sliced  Pineapple. 
Broiled  Shad.        Sliced  Cucumbers. 

Thin  Fried  Potatoes. 
Chicken  Cutlets,  Mushroom  Sauce. 

French  Peas. 
Savory  Omelet.      Radishes. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Cream  Waffles,  Maple  Syrup. 

Tea.  Coffee. 

IN  SUMMER. 

Berries. 
Baked  Turbans  of  Flounder, 

White  Sauce. 
Potato  Balls,  with  Parsley  Butter. 

Broiled  Chicken. 
Green  Peas.  Rolls. 

Tomato  Omelet.  Pop-overs. 

Frozen  Peaches,  with  Whipped 
Cream. 

Tea.  Coffee. 


IN  THE  FALL. 

Chilled  Cantaloupe. 

Breaded  Fillet  of  Bass, 

Tartar  Sauce.  Rolls. 

Small  Tenderloin  Steaks, 

Mushroom  Brown  Sauce. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes.  Muffins. 

Baked  Eggs.        Butter  Toast. 
Hominy  Griddle-Cakes,   with  Maple 
Syrup. 

Tea.  Coffee. 


IN  WINTER. 

Baked  Sweet  Apples,  with  Cream. 

Fried  Smelts, 

Tartar  Green  Sauce.  Rolls. 

Breaded  Mutton  Chops, 

Tomato  Sauce. 

Princess  Potatoes.         Corn  Muffins. 

Oyster  Omelet.  Wheat  Muffins. 

Buckwheat  Cakes,  with  Maple  Syrup. 

Chocolate.  Coffee. 


904          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


COMPANY    LUNCHEONS. 

Company  luncheons  being  especially  for  ladies,  the  dishes  should 
be  light,  and  a  warm  drink  served  at  the  close.  Frequently  choco- 
late is  taken  in  the  middle  of  the  luncheon,  in  which  case  coffee 
may  be  served  later.  Tea  is  not  often  provided ;  yet  if  any  guest 
drinks  neither  chocolate  nor  coffee,  it  is  proper  and  thoughtful  to 
inquire  if  a  cup  of  tea  would  be  acceptable.  It  is  what  many 
ladies  always  take  at  their  home  luncheon,  and  its  absence  may 
detract  much  from  their  pleasure. 

Use  of  Wine. 

In  some  families  wines  are  considered  indispensable  at  this  meal, 
whereas  in  others  they  are  used  only  at  dinner.  It  will  be  a  great 
gain  for  humanity  when  wine  is  never  set  on  a  ladies'  table.  The 
homes  where  it  is  not  served  may  not  be  so  numerous  as  those 
where  it  is,  yet  no  one  need  hesitate  in  the  least  to  plan  for  a 
company  luncheon,  dinner,  or  supper  at  which  wine  shall  have  no 
place.  Have  the  food  of  such  good  quality  that  no  accompaniment 
shall  be  desired  to  make  it  palatable  or  digestible. 

A  Plan  to  be  Commended. 

From  a  simple  meal,  the  luncheon  has  grown  to  proportions 
rather  formidable  to  the  young  housekeeper ;  for  it  is  nothing  less 
than  a  small  dinner  at  present.  Many  ladies  serve  fish  after  the 
soup,  and  then  a  joint,  which  should  be  followed  with  a  light 
dessert  and  coffee.  Such  a  meal  is  to  be  commended  when  one  has 
not  trained  servants  and  silver  and  china  in  plenty,  as  the  prepara- 
tion and  serving  will  not  require  any  more  ability  or  care  than  the 
housekeeper  and  cook  need  for  every-day  duties ;  whereas  aspiration 
to  provide  many  courses  may  lead  to  embarrassment. 

The  Oysters  and  Soup. 

When  oysters  are  in  season,  they  are  usually  served  raw  as  a  first 
course,  either  in  half  the  shell  or  in  a  block  of  ice.  There  should 
be  a  soup  of  some  kind.  If  it  be  a  clear  one,  like  bouillon  or 
consomme*,  the  most  approved  way  of  serving  it  is  in  cups.  The 
cup  commonly  used  is  of  a  size  between  tea  and  coffee  cups,  but 
pretty  china  teacups  will  do  very  well.  It  is  perfectly  proper  to 


BILLS   OF   FARE.  905 


use  soup-plates,  but  the  soup  will  not  keep  hot  so  long  as  in  cups, 
and  may  not  look  so  inviting. 

Decoration  of  the  Table. 

The  hostess  should  be  ambitious  to  have  her  table  present  none 
of  the  characteristics  of  any  other ;  she  should  avoid  copying,  no 
matter  how  charming  a  model  she  may  have  seen.  It  is  worth  the 
while,  provided  expense  be  a  matter  of  moment,  to  omit  some  ex- 
pensive dish  selected  for  a  place  in  the  bill  of  fare,  and  use  the 
money  thus  saved  for  flowers  and  ferns.  Masses  of  fresh  leaves  and 
vines,  dotted  with  bright-colored  flowers,  are  always  grateful  to  the 
eye  at  the  table.  A  block  of  ice  may  be  used  effectively  in  the 
decoration.  It  should  be  a  square  block,  clear  and  smooth,  and 
weighing  about  ten  pounds.  Chip  in  the  centre  of  it  a  hollow 
about  two  inches  in  depth  and  three  in  diameter ;  after  laying  two 
or  three  folded  napkins  in  the  middle  of  a  large  stone-china  platter, 
place  the  ice  upon  them  and  cover  the  dish  with  ferns  or  any  deli- 
cate green  stun0,  and  fill  the  cavity  in  the  block  with  ferns  and 
flowers.  Tliis  ornament,  which  is  suitable  as  a  centre-piece  for 
either  a  luncheon,  dinner,  or  supper  table,  looks  bright,  cool,  and 
refreshing,  and  is  inexpensive.  When  one  is  in  the  country,  where 
ferns  can  be  gathered  in  the  woods,  and  the  block  of  ice  is  first 
surrounded  with  soft  green  moss,  the  effect  is  even  more  agreeable 
than  when  the  greenhouse  supplies  the  embellishments. 

A  Few  Points. 

Perhaps  the  most  convenient  way  ot  serving  raw  oysters  is  on 
plates  made  expressly  for  them,  laying  an  oyster  in  each  of  the 
imitation  shells,  and  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  in  the  centre  of  the  plate. 
The  waiter  should  pass  thin  bread-and-butter  sandwiches  to  be  eaten 
with  the  oysters.  These  sandwiches  should  be  of  a  size  not  greater 
than  three  inches  square,  and  should  be  buttered  very  lightly.  A 
convenient  way  of  serving  bread  is  to  tie  together  with  narrow  bright 
ribbons  three  or  four  bread-sticks  about  six  inches  long,  and  place 
a  bundle  at  each  person's  plate.  By  this  mode  the  appearance  ot 
the  board  is  brightened  considerably. 

All  the  dishes  should  be  so  placed  that  the  waiter  can  take  them 
in  regular  order,  and  should  there  be  occasion  for  washing  plates  or 
silver,  the  work  should  be  done  so  quietly  that  no  sound  of  it  shah1 
reach  the  dining-room.  Care  also  must  be  taken,  if  the  silver  is  to 


906          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

be  used  a  second  time,  that  it  does  not  retain  the  heat  of  the  water 
in  which  it  is  washed.  The  dishes  for  soup,  whether  plates  or  cups, 
should  be  warm ;  so  should  be  the  dishes  for  all  the  hot  courses ; 
but  for  the  cold  they  should  be  entirely  free  from  heat. 

The  finger-bowls  should  contain  only  about  a  third  as  much  water 
as  they  will  hold.  On  its  surface  should  be  laid  a  thin  slice  of 
lemon  or  a  fragrant  green  leaf,  like  geranium  or  lemon  verbena.  A 
delicate  doyley  should  be  so  folded  as  to  show  its  fringe  on  all  sides, 
yet  so  small  as  not  to  conceal  the  rim  of  the  dessert-plate  on  which 
it  is  to  be  laid.  The  finger-glass  is  to  rest  on  the  doyley.  Before 
fruit  is  served,  a  dessert-plate  should  be  placed  before  each  guest, 
who  will  at  once  raise  the  glass,  remove  the  doyley  to  the  left  of  the 
plate,  and  set  the  glass  on  it.  When  the  dessert-plates  are  painted 
the  doyley  prevents  any  damage  by  contact  with  glass. 

As  soon  as  the  dessert  and  coffee  have  been  served,  the  waiter 
leaves  the  room ;  and  the  conversation  may  become  livelier,  because 
of  a  feeling  that  it  will  not  then  delay  the  serving  of  a  course. 
Coffee  is  sometimes  served  in  the  drawing-room  after  the  luncheon, 
ns  after  dinner  ;  yet  the  custom  is  not  common. 

A  One-o'clock  Luncheon. 

Here  is  a  bill  of  fare,  with  directions  for  serving  the  dishes.  Most 
of  the  work  for  such  a  luncheon  can  be  done  a  day  in  advance. 

Chicken  Consomme. 
Broiled  Sardines  on  Toast. 

Lamb  Chops,  Breaded.  Green  Peas. 

Chicken  Croquettes. 

Lobster  Salad. 
Cantaloupe  Charlotte. 

Sherbet  or  Ice-cream.  Fancy  Cakes. 

Olives.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 

The  croquettes  can  be  shaped  the  day  before  the  luncheon,  and 
fried  at  the  proper  time ;  the  lamb  chops  can  be  trimmed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in  melted  butter  and  then  in  fine 
bread  crumbs,  and  put  away  until  the  morrow ;  the  Mayonnaise 
dressing  can  be  prepared,  and,  if  the  weather  be  cold,  the  charlotte 
can  be  made  and  the  cream  prepared  for  freezing.  On  the  day  of 
the  luncheon  attention  may  be  given  chiefly  to  the  sardines,  the 
lobster  and  lettuce  for  the  salad,  the  freezing  of  the  cream,  and 
arrangements  for  the  table. 


BILLS  OF  FARE  907 


Before  attempting  any  other  work,  have  the  kitchen  and  diniug- 
room  put  in  as  good  order  as  possible  for  the  task  before  you. 
See  that  your  cream  is  ready  for  freezing ;  that  the  cans  of  peas  are 
opened,  if  you  use  French  peas  ;  that  the  sardines  are  removed  from 
their  box,  and  drained  on  a  large  plate  or  platter ;  that  the  lobsters 
are  opened,  and  the  meat  cut  into  dice  and  put  into  a  marinade  to 
stand  for  two  or  three  hours ;  that  the  lettuce  is  washed,  leaf  by 
leaf,  and  put  into  a  pan  of  broken  ice  to  keep  it  crisp. 

Freeze  the  cream,  and  pack  it  into  moulds.  If  buttered  bread  is 
to  be  served,  cut  and  butter  the  slices,  and  wrap  them  in  a  damp 
napkin.  Cut  bread  for  toast  also,  and  set  aside  a  quantity  of  butter 
to  soften  for  the  toast. 

Look  into  the  dining-room,  and,  as  you  arrange  the  table,  decide 
as  nearly  as  possible  where  each  guest  shall  sit.  If  raw  oysters  are 
to  be  served  on  plates  (that  is,  not  in  the  natural  shells,  but  in  imi- 
tation shells  forming  a  part  of  the  plate),  they  should  be  put  upon  the 
table  before  the  company  is  summoned  to  the  dining-room ;  but  if 
oysters  are  not  made  a  course  in  your  bill  of  fare,  place  ordinary 
plates  upon  the  table,  together  with  knives  and  forks.  The  greater 
part  of  the  silver  may  be  put  upon  the  table  when  it  is  set,  —  three 
forks,  two  knives,  a  soup-spoon,  and  a  small  spoon  beside  each  plate, 
if  one  have  silver  in  plenty.  By  this  plan  the  waiter's  responsibility 
may  be  lightened,  but  it  is  questionable  whether  the  display  of  so 
much  silver  increases  the  elegance  of  the  appearance  of  the  table.  If 
one  think  it  does  not,  the  waiter  may  be  instructed  to  bring  in  the 
proper  pieces  of  silver  with  the  plates  for  each  course,  —  two  plates 
at  a  time,  with  the  silver  laid  upon  them.  There  is  no  greater  test 
of  a  waiter's  ability  than  this  matter  of  placing  silver  upon  the  table 
and  removing  it  without  noise.  The  guest,  of  course,  has  his  part 
to  perform.  As  soon  as  a  plate  is  set  before  him,  he  will  take  the 
knife,  fork,  and  spoon  from  it,  and  lay  them  beside  his  plate.  The 
waiter  may  pass  each  dish  to  the  guests,  or  the  hostess  herself  may 
serve.  The  latter  manner  is  the  more  likely  to  promote  sociability. 

There  are  two  modes  of  arranging  the  table  for  the  dessert.  One 
is  to  have  two  table-cloths,  and  remove  the  upper  after  the  salad  has 
been  served  ;  but  by  following  this  plan  the  flowers  and  ornaments 
must  be  taken  off  the  table,  and  a  bare  surface  of  white  is  seen  for 
some  moments.  The  other  and  better  mode  is  to  use  a  crumb-knife 
and  salver.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  say  here  that  as  the  fashion  of 
serving  ices  in  small  soup-plates,  and  eating  them  with  a  fork  has 
nothing  to  commend  it,  it  will  not  be  followed  by  a  wise  hostess. 


908 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Fruit  is  frequently  placed  on  the  table  before  the  luncheon  is  served. 
When  there  are  no  flowers  it  makes  a  bright  centre-piece  ;  yet  fruit 
seems  much  more  appetizing  if  it  has  not  been  in  view  during  the 
meal. 

The  final  act  of  the  mistress  will  be  to  give  directions  as  to  the 
time  and  mode  of  serving  the  courses.  She  will  do  well  to  make  out 
three  menus,  with  the  time  for  cooking  and  serving  set  against  each 
dish,  —  one  to  be  given  to  the  cook,  another  to  the  waiter,  and  the 
third  to  be  retained  for  her  own  use.  The  value  of  such  memoranda 
may  become  evident  after  a  reading  of  the  following  pattern  for  a 
one-o'clock  luncheon,  like  that  suggested  on  page  906 :  — 

12.50  o'clock.  Sardines  on  Toast.  Broil  the  fish  eight  minutes,  and  lay  them 
oh  the  toast.  Keep  hot,  for  serving  at  1.10. 

1.00  o'clock.  Consomme.    Serve  hot. 

1.00  o'clock.  Green  Peas.    Heat  them,  and  season  with  salt  and  butter. 

1.10  o'clock.  Sardines  on  Toast.    Serve.  ' 

1.10  o'clock.  Chops.  Put  them  on  to  broil  for  ten  minutes.  When  they 
are  cooked,  heap  the  green  peas  in  the  centre  of  a  platter 
and  lay  the  chops  around  them.  Serve  at  once.  (1.20.) 

1.85  o'clock.  Croquettes.  Plunge  into  boiling  tat,  and  cook  until  they  be- 
come browned,  —  two  minutes.  Serve  on  a  warm  dish  with 
a  garnish  of  parsley. 

1.45  o'clock.  Salad.   Arrange  and  serve. 

2.00  o'clock.  Cantaloupe  Charlotte.  Turn  out  on  a  dish,  and  heap  whipped 
cream  around  it.  Serve. 

2.00  o'clock.  Coffee.    Begin  to  make  it. 

2.10  o'clock.  Ice-cream  and  Cake.    Serve. 

2.15  o'clock.  Coffee.   Serve. 


Company  Luncheons  in  Fall  and  Winter. 


LUNCHEON. 


Oysters  a  la  Poulette. 
SmaU  Tenderloin  Steaks,  with  Mar- 
row-bones.     Sweet     Potatoes    au 
Gratin. 

Roast  Grouse,  Bread  Sauce.   French 
Peas. 

Dressed  Celery. 

Orange  Jelly,  with  Whipped  Cream. 
Chocolate.  Fruit. 

Oysters  in  the  Half-Shell.      Rolled 

Bread. 
Fillet  of  Striped  Bass,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Potatoes  a  la  Parisienne. 


Broiled  Chicken. 
Dressed  Celery. 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin. 
Iced  Coffee. 
Royal    Croquettes,   Sauce  Allemand. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. 
Roast  Partridge,  Bread  Sauce. 

Green  Peas. 
Escaloped  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cheese  Fingers. 
Burnt  Almond  Charlotte  Russe. 
Orange  Sherbet. 

Apricot  Ice-cream, 
Fruit.        Chocolate.        Cake. 


BILLS  OF  FAEE.  909 


Company  Luncheons  in  Spring  and  Summer. 

Bouillon.  |  Chicken  Consomme. 

Creamed  Oysters,  with   Garnish  of ,  Broiled  Salmon,    Bechamel    Cream 
Puff-Paste  Triangles.  Sauce. 

Broiled  Small  Birds  on  Toast.  Lamb  Chops. 

French  Peas.  Asparagus  Points  on   Toast.     New 

Sorbet.  Potatoes,  with  Parsley  Sauce. 

Chicken  Patties.  <  Sweetbreads,  Larded  and  Baked,  with 
Lobster  Farce.  Cream  Sauce.      Green  Peas. 

Lettuce  Salad.  Marguerite  Salad. 

Royal  Diplomatic  Pudding.  \  Orange  Sherbet. 


Walnut  Ice-cream. 


Small  Fancy  Cakes. 


Caramel  Ice-cream. 
Cake.  Fruit. 


Fruit.  Coffee.  Coffee. 

COMPANY   DINNERS    AND    SUPPERS. 

When  the  husband  unceremoniously  invites  home  to  dine  with 
him  a  friend  of  whose  coming  not  the  slightest  mention  has  been 
made  to  the  wife,  she  may  be  unable  to  make  special  preparation  at 
short  notice,  and  should  be  satisfied  to  set  before  the  guest  the  good 
food  which  she  ordinarily  provides  for  the  family,  though  it  be  plain. 
Suggestions  as  to  what  may  be  done  in  such  cases  have  already 
been  given  in  another  part  of  this  chapter,  under  the  head  "  In 
Emergencies." 

But  perhaps  a  few  intimate  friends  are  asked  to  be  present  at  the 
family  dinner.  There  is  no  need  of  any  elaborate  preparations,  for  a 
simple  meal  will  be  acceptable  enough  if  it  be  well  cooked  and  well 
served. 

Again,  invitations  may  be  issued  to  a  more  ceremonious  dinner. 
It  should  be  remembered,  when  arranging  for  such  a  meal,  that  the 
home  table  should  be  of  a  character  absolutely  distinct  from  that  of 
the  restaurant  or  hotel,  despite  the  prevalent  fancy  of  many  house- 
keepers for  copying  the  restaurant  table  as  closely  as  possible. 
Then,  too,  unless  a  large  number  of  guests  be  present,  the  dinner 
will  be  much  more  enjoyable  if  placed  on  the  table  and  served  by  the 
host  and  hostess.  Guard  against  the  error  of  having  too  many  dishes. 
An  elegant  dinner  may  be  composed  of  a  few  dishes  excellently 
cooked  and  faultlessly  served ;  whereas  if  the  number  be  large,  the 
liability  of  poor  cooking  is  enhanced,  and,  moreover,  as  some  of  the 
dishes  must  stand  awhile  after  they  have  been  cooked,  they  may  not 
be  in  the  best  state  when  brought  to  the  table,  though  perhaps  per- 
fect at  first. 


910 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


Unless  implicit  confidence  may  be  placed  in  the  cook,  written  di- 
rections should  be  given  as  to  the  time  each  dish  is  to  be  put  on  to 
cook  and  to  be  served,  so  that  there  shall  be  no  mortifying  mistakes 
in  the  kitchen.  The  waiter  should  have  a  copy  of  the  menu,  and 
there  should  be  one  at  your  own  plate.  Prepare  as  many  of  the 
dishes  as  possible  the  previous  day.  If  the  bill  of  fare  be  long  and 
many  of  the  courses  heavy,  the  soup  should  be  light,  —  say  some 
kind  of  clear  soup  ;  but  if  the  courses  be  few,  it  will  be  well  to  have 
some  kind  of  cream  soup. 

The  general  suggestions  given  in  regard  to  company  luncheons 
apply  also  to  company  dinners. 


Spring  and  Early  Summer. 


Asparagus  Soup. 

Baked  Salmon,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 

Roast  Chicken,  with  Currant  Jelly. 

Potato  Croquettes.      Asparagus. 

Escaloped  Sweetbreads. 

Green  Peas. 
Dressed  Lettuce.        Cheese  Fingers. 

Strawberry  Charlotte. 

Pineapple  Sherbet.  Cake. 

Ice-cream.  Coffee. 


Bisque  of  Lobster. 

Broiled  Spanish  Mackerel,  Ravigote 
Sauce. 


Chicken  Timbales,  Bechamel  Cream 
Sauce.     French  Peas. 
Fillet  of  Beef ,  Mushroom  Sauce. 
Vegetables  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Sorbet. 
Roast    Woodcock,   with    Garnish    of 

Water-cresses  and  Lemons. 
Reed  Birds  on  Toast.     Potatoes  a  la 
Parisienne. 

Shrimp  Salad. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

Chocolate  Mousse. 

Fancy  Cakes.  Fruit. 

Confectionery.  Coffee. 


Summer  and  Early  Autumn. 


Chicken  Consomme. 
Fillets  of  Flounder  au  Gratin. 
Fried  Chicken  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Potato  Souffle. 
Breaded  Calves'  Brains,  Ravigote 

Sauce.    French  Peas. 
Roast  Duck,  Olive  Brown  Sauce. 
Brussels  Sprouts.  Potato  Balls. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Imperial  Pudding,    Strawberry 

Sauce. 

Lemon  Sherbet.        Cake.         Fruit. 
Coffee. 


Potage  a  la  reine. 
Boiled  Salmon,  Tarragon  Sauce. 
Cauliflower,  with  Cream  Sauce. 
Broiled  Chicken,  Tartar  Sauce. 

French  Peas. 

Raspberry  Granite. 

Roast*  Woodcock  on  Toast. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Toasted  Soda-  Crackers. 

Neufchdtel  Cheese. 

Pineapple  Sherbet.  Ice-cream 

Fruit.  Fancy  Cakes. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


911 


Autumn  and  Winter. 


Crab  Bisque. 

Turbot  a  la  Creme. 

Potato  Croquettes. 

Parisian  Vol-au-Vent. 

Roast  Chicken. 
Dressed  Celery.  Potato  Puffs. 

Iced  Orange  Granite. 
Fried  Froys'  Legs,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin. 
Reed  Birds  Roasted  in  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Green  Peas.         Lettuce  Salad. 
Peaches  in  Jelly,   with    Whipped 
Cream. 

Coffee  Mousse. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream.     Lemon  Sherbet. 
Coffee. 


Raw  Oysters.     Buttered  Brown 
Bread. 

Velvet  Soup. 

Fillets  of  Flounder  in  Wine,  White 
Sauce. 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 
Chicken   a    la   Duxelles,    Bechamel 
Sauce. 


Macedoine  of  Vegetables. 

Coffee  Granite. 

Venison  Steak.  Currant  Jelly. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Dressed  Celery. 
Olives.  Crackers.  Cheese. 

Biscuit  Tortoni. 

Fruit.  Confectionery. 

Coffee. 


Oyster  Bisque. 

Fillet  of  Bass.  Tartar  Sauce.    Rice 
Croquettes. 

Roast  Chicken. 
Minced  Spinach.     Mushed  Potatoes. 

Cranberry  Jelly. 
Broiled  Quail  on  Toast. 

Dressed  Celery. 
Potatoes  a  la  Parisitnne. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Orange  Sherbet.          Ice-cream. 

Fruit.  Small  Fancy  Caket. 

Coffee. 


Winter. 


Oysters  in  a  Block  of  Ice. 

Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches. 

Consomme  a  la  Royal. 
Fried  Smelts,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Buttered  Brown  Bread. 
Tenderloin  Steaks  a  la  Bearnaise. 

Potatoes  a  la  Parisienne. 

Chicken  Timbales,  Bechamel  Yellow 

Sauce.  French  Peas. 

Di'essed  Celery. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Royal  Diplomatic  Pudding. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

Coffee  fee-cream. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream. 

Fancy  Cakes.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Green  Pea  Soup. 

Broiled  Whitefish,  Maitre  d'Hdtel 
Butter. 

Potatoes  au  Gratin. 
Anchovy  Toast, 


Mutton  Chops.    Peas  a  la  Franqaise. 

Welsh  Rare-bit. 

Water-cress  Salad. 

Custard  Souffle ;,  Creamy  Sauce. 

Fruit.  Coffee. 

Julienne  Soup. 

Fillets  of  Flounders  au  Gratin,  with 
Bechamel  Sauce. 

Potato  Croquettes. 
Roast  Chicken,  Ravigote  Sauce. 

Potato  Puffs. 

Cauliflower  in  Cream  Sauce. 
Sweetbreads  in  Paper  Cases. 

Sorbet. 

Roasted  Young  Ducks. 
Stuffed  Cucumbers.          Green  Peas. 

Salmon  Salad. 
Cream  a  la  Versailles. 

Chocolate  Mousse. 

Walnut  Ice-cream.        Fancy  Cakes. 

Pineapple  Sherbet. 

Coffee. 


912 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Game  Dinner. 


Blue  Points.    Bread-and- Butter 
Sandwiches. 

Green  Turtle  Soup. 

Fillet  of  Bass,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Roast  Venison,  Currant  Jelly  Sauce. 

Potato  Puff's. 

Small  Birds  in  Crumbs. 

Roast  Duck,  Orange  Sauce. 

Sweet  Potatoes. 


Larded  Grouse,  Bread  Sauce. 

French  Peas. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Cheese.          Thin  Crackers. 

Celery. 

Wine  Jelly.          Italian  Cream. 

Orange  Sherbet.    Walnut  Ice-cream. 

Fruit. 

Coffee. 


A  Little  Supper. 

Creamed    Oysters,    with    Puff-Paste 
Cakes. 

Venison  Steak. 

Currant  Jelly.     Thin  Fried  Potatoes. 
Broiled  Quail  on  Toast. 


Cold  Roast  Chicken. 
Dressed  Celery.  French  Peas. 

Orange  Sherbet. 

Chocolate  Mousse.       Cake.       Fruit. 
Coffee. 


With  this  supper  there  should  be  served  very  small  hot  rolls, 
and  cold  bread  cut  in  delicate  slices,  as  well  as  side  dishes  of  olives 
and  salted  almonds. 

An  Oyster  Supper. 


Oysters  in  the  Half-Shell. 
Quarters  of  Lemon. 

Brown  Bread. 

Fried  Oysters.       Escaloped  Oysters. 

Rolls.          Fried  Brown  Bread. 

Dressed  Celery. 


Oysters  a  la  Poulette. 
Puff-Paste  Cakes. 

Oyster  Salad. 

Thin  Slices  of  Bread.  Olives. 

Orange  Jelly.  Charlotte  Russe. 

Chocolate.  Coffee. 


LENTEN    FARE. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
BroiUd  Salt  Fish. 

Princess  Potatoes. 
Poached  Eggs. 

Spider  Corn  Cake.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Broiled  Fish,  with  Maitre  rf' Hotel 
Butter. 

Ma$h  ed  Pota  toes.  Cucumbers. 

•       Canned  Peas. 
Tea  Cake. 
T«a. 


DINNERS. 

Clam  Soup.  Escaloped  Fish. 

Peas  a  la  Frangaise. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Macaroni,  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

Cheese  Souffle.  Cider  Jelly. 

Potato  Soup. 

Boiled  Halibut,  Egg  Sauce. 

Potato  Puff's.  Green  Peas. 

Broiled  Mackerel  or  Bass. 

Thin  Fried  Potatoes. 

Dressed  Lettuce. 
Crackers  and  Cheese. 
Baked  Bread  Pudding,  Vanilla 
Sauce. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


913 


Tomato  Soup. 

Baked  Fish,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 

Macaroni  and  Cheese. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 

Oyster  Omelet. 
Quaking  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 


SUPPER. 
Milk  Toast. 

Egg-and-Lettuce  Salad.     Hot  Rolls. 
Delicate  Cake.  Cocoa. 


COMPANY  DINNERS  IN  LENT. 

Oysters  in  the  Half-Shell. 

Rolled  Bread. 
Cream-of -Celery  Soup. 
Baked  Chicken  Halibut,  with  Becha- 
mel  Cream    Sauce    and    Garnish 
of  Potato  Balls  and  Hard-boiled 
Kggs. 
Broiled  Lobster,  Maitre  d' Hotel 

Butter. 

Green  Peas  a  la  Frangaise. 
Orange  Sorbet. 


Fillet  of  Bass,  Tartar  Sauce. 
Bermuda  Potatoes  or  Sliced  Toma- 
toes. 

Deviled  Lobster. 
Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Dressed  Lettuce. 
Custard  Souffle,  Creamy  Sauce. 
Ice-cream.  Small  Caket. 

Fruit.  Coffee. 


Oysters  in  a  Block  of  Ice. 

Mock  Bisque. 
Baked  Shad,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 

Potato  Balls. 

Broiled  Salmon,   Maitre  d' Hotel 

Butter.  Green  Peas. 

Cheese  Souffle. 

Lobster  Salad. 

Cabinet  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 
Frozen  Apricots. 

Caramel  Ice-cream 
Small  Fancy  Cakes. 
Fruit.  Co/ee. 


GENTLEMEN'S    DINNERS. 


Spring. 


Oysters  in  the  Half-Shell. 

Sorrel  Soup. 

Broiled  Shad,  Ravigote  Sauce. 

Sliced  Cucumbers. 

Potato  Croquettes. 

Roast  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce. 

Asparagus.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Roman  Punch. 


Roast  Duck,  Orange  Savet. 

French  Peas. 

Small  Cheese  Souffles. 

Lettuce-and-Tarragon  Salad. 

Sherbet.        Ice-cream. 

Small  Fancy  Cakes.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Summer. 


Little-Neck  Clams. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

Broiled  Salmon,  Bearnaise  Sauce. 

Green  Peas. 
Broiled  Chicken. 
Vegetables  d  la  Jardiniere. 
Strawberry  or  Raspberry  Granite.    ' 


Roast  Snipe  or  Woodcock. 

Saratoga  Potatoes. 

Water-cress  Salad. 

Crackers.  Cheese. 

Strawberry  Ice-cream. 

Lemon  Sherbet,    Macaroons.    Fruit. 

Sponge  Cake.       Coffee. 


914 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Fall. 


Anchovy  Canapes. 

Lobster  Bisque. 

Fillet  of  Sole  Baked  in  White  Wine. 
Potato  Balls,  with  Parsley  Butter. 

Tenderloin  Steaks, 

Olive  Brown  Sauce.        Lima,  Beans. 

Orange  Sorbet. 


Roast  Partridges,  Bread  Sauce. 

Cauliflower,  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Royal  Fritters,  Sabayon  Sauce. 

Frozen  Peaches.  Ice-cream. 

Vanilla  Wafers.     Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Winter. 


Oysters  in  the  Half -Shell. 

Cream-of-Clam  Soup. 
Boiled  Bass,  Dutch  Sauce. 
Roast  Leg  of  Mutton,  Currant  Jelly. 
Mashed  Potatoes. 

Macaroni  au  Gratin. 
Mashed  Turnips. 

Celery  Salad. 

Crackers.  Cheese. 

Brown  Pudding,   Wine  Sauce. 

Ice-cream.   Sponge  Fingers.   Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Oysters  in  the  Half-Shell. 

Imperial  Soup. 

Breaded  Fillets  of  Bass,  Tartar  Saucf. 
French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Roast  Chicken. 
Dressed  Celery.       Mashed  Potatoes. 

Orange  Granite. 

Roast  Venison,  Currant  Sauce. 

Escaloped  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Escarole  Salad. 

Chantilly  Pudding. 

Raspberry  Sherbet.       Coffee  Mousse. 

Fruit.       Roasted  Chestnuts. 

Coffee. 


GENTLEMEN'S    SUPPERS. 


Spring. 

Caviare  on  Toast. 
Fried  Trout.  French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Sliced  Cucumbers. 

Broiled  Squab  on  Toast. 

Rolls.  Asparagus  Points. 

Sorrel-and-Lettuce  Salad. 

Rum  Omelet. 

Coffee. 

Fall. 

Stuffed  Oysters,  Tartar  Green  Sauce. 

Brown-Bread  Toast. 

Venison  Steak.     Currant  Jelly. 

Glazed  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Velvet  Biscuit. 

Olives.  Crackers.  Cheese. 

Charlotte  Russe.          Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Summer. 

Anchovy  Toast.      Lobster  Newburg. 

Small  Puff-Paste  Cakes. 

Roast  Woodcock  on  Toast. 

Green  Peas.          Fried  Potato  Ball$. 

Cress  Salad.          Small  Rolls. 

Small  Cheese  Souffles. 

Wine  Jelly.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 

Winter. 

Stuffed  Olives.        Toasted  Crackers. 
Fried    Oysters   on    Fried  Brown 
Bread. 

Celery  Salad. 

Broiled  Grouse,  Bread  Sauce. 
Rolls.  Fried  Potatoes. 

Welsh  Rare-bit. 

Baked  Sweet  Apples,  with  Cream. 
Fruit.  Coffee. 


BILLS  OF  FARE.  915 


PARTY    SUPPERS. 


Supper  for  a  Dancing-Party  of  Fifty. 

Twelve  quarts  of  bouillon,  eight  quarts  of  escaloped  oysters,  eight 
cold  roast  chickens,  sliced,  seventy-five  bread-and-butter  sandwiches, 
one  hundred  small  rolls,  three  bottles  of  olives,  five  baskets  of  cake, 
fifteen  quarts  of  coffee,  fifteen  quarts  of  ice-cream,  eight  pounds  of 
confectionery. 

Supper  for  One  Hundred  Guests. 

Twenty-five  quarts  of  bouillon,  one  hundred  and  fifty  chicken 
sandwiches,  ten  quarts  of  oyster  salad,  ten  quarts  of  chicken  salad, 
two  hundred  small  rolls,  five  bottles  of  olives,  eight  baskets  of  cake, 
twenty  quarts  of  ice-cream  (two  kinds),  fifteen  quarts  of  sherbet 
(two  kinds),  five  pounds  of  salted  almonds,  five  pounds  of  French 
candied  fruit,  eight  pounds  of  confectionery,  thirty  quarts  of  coffee. 
An  idea  of  the  way  the  table  should  be  set  may  be  gained  below. 
As  the  bouillon  should  be  served  in  cups,  and  the  ices  are  not 
served  at  the  beginning  of  the  repast,  no  place  is  allotted  them  on 
the  table. 

Sandwiches. 

Rolls.  Rolls. 

Olives.  Salted  Almonds.  Olives. 

Oyster  Salad.  Chicken  Salad. 

Cake.  Candied  Fruit.  Cake. 

Flowers.         Confectionery.         Flowers.         Confectionery.          Flowers. 

Cake.  Candied  Fruit.  Cake. 

Chicken  Salad.  Oyster  Salad. 

Olives.  Salted  Almonds.  Olives. 

Rolls.  Rolls. 

Sandwiches. 


Here  is  another  bill  of  fare  for  a  supper  for  one  hundred  guests  : 
One  boned  turkey,  one  boiled  ham,  eight  quarts  of  chicken  salad, 
eight  quarts  of  lobster  salad,  fifteen  quarts  of  escaloped  oysters, 
five  bottles  of  olives,  two  hundred  bread-and-butter  sandwiches,  two 
hundred  small  rolls,  thirty  quarts  of  coffee,  eight  baskets  of  cake, 


916          MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 

twenty  quarts  of  ice-cream  (two  kinds),  fifteen  quarts  of  sherbet 
(two  kinds),  eight  pounds  of  confectionery. 

Escaloped  Oysters. 

Olives.  Olivet. 

Chicken  Salad.  Lobster  Salad. 

»s        Rolls.  Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches.  Rolls. 

*  W 

Cake.          Confectionery.         Cake.         Confectionery.          Cake.     & 

^     Flowers.  Cake.  Flowers.  Cake.  Flowers.     ?* 

1      Cake.          Confectionery.         Cake.          Confectionery.         Cake.     ^ 
oq         Rolls.  Bread-and-Butter  Sandwiches.  Rolls.         • 

Lobster  Salad.  Chicken  Salad. 

Olives.  OKve$. 

Escaloped  Oysters. 


WEDDING    BREAKFASTS. 

A  wedding  breakfast  is  really  about  the  same  thing  as  an  ordi- 
nary company  luncheon  ;  but  the  party  present  is  generally  larger, 
and  more  cold  dishes  and  cake  are  provided.  When  the  company 
js  a  small  one,  it  is  best  to  have  a  hot  meal  if  possible.  No  matter 
what  the  number  of  guests  may  be,  or  how  simple  or  elaborate  the 
breakfast,  there  are  a  few  things  which  it  is  always  desirable  to  have 
upon  the  table,  —  flowers,  salted  almonds  or  other  salted  nuts, 
olives,  fruit,  and  confectionery.  Pains  should  be  taken  to  use  as 
much  dainty  china  and  fine  glassware  as  possible,  to  give  the  board 
a  bright  and  handsome  appearance. 

When  oysters  are  in  season,  it  is  well  to  begin  the  breakfast  with 
them.  If  the  company  be  large,  there  should  be  a  plentiful  supply 
of  small  buttered  rolls  and  thin  bread-and-butter  sandwiches.  It  is 
also  customary  to  have  cake  cut  and  put  into  boxes,  to  be  handed 
by  a  servant  to  the  departing  guests ;  yet  it  is  considered  to  be  in 
good  taste  to  place  the  cake  on  the  table  and  cut  it  there. 

Here  is  a  bill  of  fare  for  a  nice  breakfast  for  a  small  company. 
It  is  not  offered  with  the  expectation  that  it  will  be  adopted  exactly 
as  printed,  but  rather  with  the  view  of  suggesting  some  proper 
dishes  to  provide.  It  should  be  remembered  that  this  festal  meal 
is  not  to  be  served  at  eight  o'clock  or  nine  o'clock,  but  considerably 
later,  and  that  food  which  might  not  be  relished  at  an  early  hour 
may  be  eaten  vith  zest  at  eleven  o'clock  or  noon. 


BILLS  OF   FARE.  917 


Consomme  in  Cups. 

Broiled  Salmon,  Maitre  d'Rotd  Butter.  Potato  Croquettes. 

Lamb  Chops.  Green  Peas. 

Baked  Sweetbreads,  Bechamel  Cream  Sauce.     Cauliflower  in  Cream  Sauce- 
Broiled  Squabs  on  Toast.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Orange  Ice.  Frozen  Pudding. 

Cake.                       Confectionery.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 

If  the  company  is  to  be  a  large  one,  a  different  plan  must  be  fol- 
lowed. Suggestions  of  dishes  will  be  offered  below,  and  an  attempt 
made  to  give  an  idea  how  the  table  should  be  set.  Ices  and  creams 
are  not  to  be  served  until  after  the  other  viands,  and  therefore  no 
place  is  allotted  them  on  the  table. 

Chicken  Consomme  in  Cups. 

Boned  Turkey. 

Salted  Almonds.  Olivet. 

Royal  Croquettes.  Chicken  Patties. 

Confectionery.  Candied  Fruit.     ^ 

Fruit.  Cake. 

Flowers.  $     ? 

^         05 

Cake.  Fruit.  *      f. 

§     £ 

Candied  Fruit.  Confectionery. 

Chicken  Patties.  Royal  Croquette*. 

Olivet.  Salted  Almonds. 

Tongue  in  Jelly. 

Strawberry  Ice-cream.  Macaroon  Ice-cream. 

Orange  Ice.  Lemon  Ice. 

Chocolate.  Coffee. 

THANKSGIVING   AND    CHRISTMAS. 

During  the  week  preceding  Thanksgiving  the  New  England 
housekeeper  is  a  busy  woman.  All  over  the  country,  but  especially 
in  New  England,  men  and  women  look  forward  to  the  holiday  as  a 
time  for  going  to  old  homes,  —  a  family  day.  At.no  other  time  in 


918 


MISS   PARMA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


the  year  do  so  many  large  family-gatherings  take  place.  It  is  de- 
sirable to  preserve  the  characteristics  of  the  old-fashioned  dinner, 
yet  the  addition  of  some  comparatively  modern  dishes  improves  the 
meal.  The  following  bills  of  fare  are  as  elaborate  as  need  be,  and 
may  be  reduced  to  suit  the  convenience  and  resources  of  house- 
keepers who  have  no  cook  to  assist  them.  If  everything  before  the 
roast  turkey  in  the  first  two  bills  be  omitted,  the  preparation  of  the 
dinner  ought  not  to  tax  the  strength  or  ability  of  an  average 
housekeeper.  When  many  dishes  are  to  be  served,  the  quantity  of 
each  may  of  course  be  much  smaller  than  when  there  are  only  two 
or  three  courses. 

Mince  pies  are  better  for  being  kept  a  week  after  baking.  Tarts 
may  be  prepared  the  day  before  they  are  wanted.  If  it  be  incon- 
venient to  bake  the  chicken  pie  on  Thanksgiving  Day,  bake  it  on  the 
previous  day  and  warm  it  for  the  dinner.  Vegetables  may  be  pre- 
pared for  cooking  and  kept  in  a  cold  place.  Cranberry  jelly  may  be 
made,  nuts  cracked,  apples  wiped,  grapes  and  pears  put  in  a  cold 
place,  raisins  and  nuts  arranged  in  dishes,  turkeys  stuffed  and  made 
ready  for  roasting.  Remember  that  the  chief  aim  is  to  produce  hap- 
piness, and  that  many  of  the  company  will  not  be  wholly  happy  if  the 
mistress  of  the  household  must  pass  a  good  part  of  the  day  in  the 
kitchen.  On  this  account  the  greater  the  preparations  made  in 
advance  the  better,  so  as  to  relieve  the  housekeeper  of  as  many 
duties  and  as  much  anxiety  as  possible  on  the  holiday. 


Thanksgiving  Dinners. 


Oysters  in  Ice,  with  Thin  Slices  of 
Buttered    Brown    or    Graham 
Bread. 

Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

Boiled  Turkey,  Oyster  Sauce. 

Mashed  Turnips.     Mashed  Potatoes. 

Plain  Celery. 
Roast  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce. 

Chicken  Pie. 
Dressed  Celery.        Cranberry  Jelly. 

Cauliflower.        Squash. 
Mashed  and  Browned  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Thanksgiving  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 
Apple  Pie.     Squash  Pie.    Mince  Pie. 

Strawberry  Tarts. 

Crackers.        Cheese.         Olives. 

Salted  Almonds.        Fruit.         Co/ee. 


Oyster  Soup. 

Boiled  Turkey,  Oyster  Sauce. 

Masked  Potatoes. 

Mashed  Turnips. 

Roast  Turkey,  Chestnut  Sauce. 

Chicken  Pie. 
Celery.  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Squash.  Potato  Puffs. 

Sweet  Potatoes.  Cauliflower. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Mince  Pie.  Squash  Pie. 

Apple  Pie.  Cheese. 

Apricot  fee-cream.  Cake 

Apples.        Oranges.        Grapes. 

Nuts..  Raisins. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


919 


Consomme. 

Oysters  a  la  Poulette. 

Roast  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce. 

Cranberry  Jelly.  Celery. 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin. 

Potato  Timbale. 

Orange  Salad. 

Roast    Saddle    of    Venison,    Claret 
Sauce. 


Currant  Jelly. 
Glazed  Siveet  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Crackers.  Cheese.  Olive*. 

Wine  Jelly. 

Charlotte  Ruise. 

Fruit.  Confectionery. 

Coffee. 


Christmas  Dinners. 


Raio  Oysters. 

Consomme  a  la  Royale. 

Baked    Kennebec    Salmon,    Lobster 

Sauce. 

Boiled   Potato    Balls,  with   Parsley 
Butter. 

Roast  Goose,  with  Apple  Sauce. 
Cauliflower.  Potato  Puffs. 

Coffee  Granite. 

Canvas-back  Duck,  Orange  Sauce. 

Dressed  Celery.  French  Peas. 

Lettuce  Salad.  Cheese  Fingers. 

Plum  Pudding,  Brandy  Sauce. 

Pistachio  Ice-cream. 

Orange  Sherbet. 

Cake.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 


Oyster  Bisque. 
Turbans  of  Halibut  Baked  in  White 

Sauce. 
Potato  Cubes,  with  Parsley  Butter. 

Roast  Turkey. 

Cranberry  Sauce.          Celery. 

Cauliflower.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Roast  Duck. 

Currant  Jelly. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Dressed  Celery. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Fruit  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 
Mince  Pie.  Apple  Pie. 

Jce-cream.        Lady's  Cake. 

Salted  Ptanuls.  Fruit. 

Coffee. 


LUNCHES    FOR    TENNIS    PARTIES. 

In  planning  to  provide  a  luncheon  for  a  party  of  lawn-tennis 
players  one  should  remember  that  although  so  much  exercise  is 
taken  by  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  that  something  ought  to  be  ready 
for  quenching  their  thirst,  it  will  be  unwise  to  set  forth  ice-water. 
Hot  or  iced  tea  will  be  better,  and  will  give  more  satisfaction.  Place 
it  where  the  players  can  get  a  cup  readily.  The  tea  may  be  kept  hot  a 
long  time  by  setting  the  pot  under  a  "  cosey,"  —  a  wadded  cover ;  or 
if  one  possess  a  genuine  Chinese  teapot,  it  may  be  kept  hot  and  good 
for  hours.  At  luncheon-time  there  should  be  fresh  tea  to  serve 
with  sandwiches,  bread-and-butter,  and  cake.  Never  yield  to  the 
temptation  to  have  an  elaborate  spread.  A  tennis-court  is  not  the 
place  for  it  for  at  least  two  reasons :  enthusiastic  players  do  not  care 
to  be  called  from  their  sport  for  the  time  necessary  for  the  proper 
serving  of  a  variety  of  viands,  and  they  are  likely  to  resume  playing 


920          MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 

so  soon  after  any  refreshment  has  been  taken  that  the  digestive 
organs  will  be  burdened  unless  the  food  be  simple.  Following  art- 
receipts  for  a  few  things  which  are  good  to  provide :  — 

Chicken  Sandwiches.  —  Suppose  that  twenty  sandwiches  are 
wanted.  Use  a  quart  of  fine-chopped  cooked  chicken,  forty  thin 
slices  of  bread  at  least  a  day  old,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  that  have  been  boiled  for 
twenty  minutes,  half  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  —  obtained  by  peeling 
an  onion  and  squeezing  it :  an  operation  described  in  the  chapter  en- 
titled "  What  All  Housekeepers  Should  Know." 

Put  the  yolks  into  a  bowl,  and  mash  them  with  a  fork  or  spoon 
until  smooth  and  light.  Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  the  salt  and  a 
grain  of  pepper.  Put  the  butter  into  a  warm  cup,  and  beat  it  until 
creamy  ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  it  to  the  yolks.  Gradually 
add  the  cream  or  milk,  and  then  the  onion  juice.  Stir  the  mixture 
until  it  is  as  smooth  and  light  as  a  salad-dressing.  Mix  the  re- 
mainder of  the  salt  and  pepper  with  the  chopped  chicken  ;  then  add 
the  dressing,  mixing  thoroughly.  Spread  the  remaining  butter 
lightly  upon  the  bread,  and  afterward  spread  the  chicken  in  the  same 
way.  Fold  the  sandwiches  in  a  napkin,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  until  wanted.  They  will  look  a  little  nicer  if  the  crusts  be 
trimmed  off.  It  will  not  make  much  difference  in  the  taste  if  no 
butter  be  spread  upon  the  bread. 

Sardine  Sandwiches.  —  For  twenty  sandwiches  take  two  boxes  ot 
boneless  sardines,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  six  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  one-tenth  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  forty  thin 
slices  of  bread. 

Mash  the  yolks  till  light  and  fine,  and  add  the  lemon  juice,  salt, 
and  pepper  to  them.  After  pouring  the  oil  away  from  the  fish,  put 
them  into  a  mortar  or  bowl,  and  pound  .them  to  a  smooth  paste. 
Add  the  egg  mixture,  and  blend  all  the  ingredients  as  smoothly  as 
possible.  Toast  the  bread  delicately,  and  butter  it  lightly.  Spread 
twenty  slices  with  the  sardine  mixture,  and  cover  with  the  remain- 
ing slices.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  each  sandwich  into  three  strips. 

Iced  Tea.  —  For  a  dozen  tumblers  of  tea  use  twelve  teaspoonfuls 
of  Oolong  tea,  twelve  tumblers  of  water,  and  about  two  quarts  of 
broken  ice,  —  not  very  fine.  Wash  the  ice  until  it  is  perfectly 
clean,  and  put  it  into  the  vessel  in  which  the  tea  is  to  be  made. 
Pour  in  the  water,  and  then  sprinkle  in  the  dry  tea.  Cover,  and  set 


BILLS   OF  FARE. 


921 


in  the  refrigerator  or  some  other  cool  place  for  four  or,  better  still, 
six  hours.     The  drink  will  be  found  strong  and  exhilarating. 


WHAT   TO    TAKE   TO   PICNICS. 

At  some  seasons  of  the  year  the  question  what  eatables  to  take  to 
picnics  arises  so  frequently  that  a  few  suggestions  may  be  accept- 
able. Many  people  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  good  bread  and  butter 
and  cold  meat  are  articles  of  which  there  should  be  an  ample  supply, 
even  at  the  cost  of  going  without  some  delicacies.  A  small  spirit- 
lamp  will  enable  one  to  get,  with  very  little  trouble,  a  cup  of  hot 
tea,  coffee,  or  chocolate.  Here  is  a  short  list  of  good  things  from 
which  to  make  selections  for  a  luncheon  in  the  woods :  Buttered 
thin  bread,  buttered  rolls,  pressed  chicken,  broiled  chicken,  tongue, 
ham,  pressed  corned  beef,  sardines,  stuffed  eggs,  hard-boiled  eggs, 
broiled  smoked  salmon,  pickles,  olives,  crackers  and  cheese,  orange 
marmalade,  hard  gingerbread,  cake,  cold  coffee,  cold  tea,  lemonade. 
There  are  many  fruit  syrups  which,  mixed  with  cold  water,  make 
palatable  drinks.  Lemon  juice  for  lemonade  should  be  extracted  at 
home,  and  carried  to  the  picnic-grounds  in  bottles.  The  sugar  may 
be  put  with  it,  or  added  with  the  water  when  the  lemonade  is  wanted. 
When  ice  can  be  transported,  the  bill  of  fare  may  be  improved 
greatly.  For  example,  salads  may  be  packed  in  ice,  and  they  will  be 
found  tempting  when  dinner  is  announced.  Ice-cream  and  sherbet 
also  will  make  the  meal  seem  a  hundred  per  cent  better  on  a  hot 
day,  and  a  little  ice  in  the  lemonade  will  make  it  so  much  more  re- 
freshing as  to  repay  one  for  the  trouble  of  carrying  the  ice.  But 
have  good  bread  and  butter  anyway.  It  is  well  to  distribute  crack- 
ers and  cheese  among  the  party  on  first  reaching  the  grounds,  so  as 
to  relieve  any  feeling  of  faintness. 


FAMILY    BILLS    FOR  ALL    SEASONS. 
January. 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  and  Milk. 

Broiled  Pigs1  Feet. 

Raked  Potatoes.  Plain  Omelet. 

Corn  Bread.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-eakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Oysters  au  Gi'atin. 

Toasted  Crackers.     Luncheon  Roll* 

Oranges. 

Coffee. 


922 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup. 
Boiled  Fowl,  with  Macaroni  Stuffing 

and  Bechamel  Sauce. 
Stewed  Celery.        Mashed  Turnips. 
Macaroni,  with  Bechamel  Sauce. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Brown  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Salt  Fish. 

Toasted  Pilot  Bread.        Rolls. 

Sponge  Cake.  Canned  Peaches. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
Broiled  Salt  Mackerel. 

Escaloped  Potatoes. 

Graham  Muffins.  Toast. 

Bread  Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Ragout  of  Mutton. 
Turnips.      Potatoes.       Carrots. 
Boiled  Rice  Pudding,  with  Soft  Cus- 
tard. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Kidneys.     Cream-of-  Tartar 
Biscuit. 

Soft  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

Baked  Apples. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oranges. 
Fricassee  of  Chicken. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Rye  Muffins.  Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Broiled  Cod  or  White  Fish,  with 

Maitre  d1  Hotel  Butter. 
Mashed  Potatoes.     Stewed  Tomatoes. 
Baked  Apples.       Cream  Cookies. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 
Broiled  Beefsteak. 

Fried  Onions. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Rice  Fritters.  Dressed  Celery. 

Cold  Cabinet  Pudding,  Chocolate 

Sauce. 


lers. 


SUPPER. 

Steioed 

Toasted  Crackers.  Rolls. 

Currant  Cake.        Preserves. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Pearled  Wheat. 

Baked  Sausages.  Potato  Cakes. 

Rolls.     Fried  Hominy.      Toast. 


DINNER. 
Baked  Fish. 
Mashed  Potatoes. 

Vegetable  Salad. 
Custard  Meringue  Pudding. 


Squash. 


SUPPER. 
Baked  Omelet. 

Milk  Toast.  Graham  Bread. 

Cup  Cake.         Sliced  Oranges. 

Chocolate. 

LUNCHEON. 
Fish  Chowder. 

Cold  Meat.        Baked  Potatoes. 

Toasted  Crackers.  Marmalade. 

Chocolate. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of-Clam  Soup. 
Roast  Venison,  Currant  Jelly  Sauce. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Escaloped  Onions.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Orange  Charlotte. 


SUPPER. 
Egg  Nests.  Toast. 

Velvet  Biscuit. 

Cream  Walnut  Cake. 

Tea. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


923 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy. 

Pork  Chops.        Baked  Potatoes. 
Sj)ider  Corn  Cake.  Toast. 


DINNER. 
Roast  Beef. 


Boiled  Rice. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Canadian  Apple  Pudding. 


Squash. 


SUPPER. 

Lyonnaite  Potatoes.         Milk  Toast. 

Graham  Rolls. 
Cake.         Preserves.         Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Baked  Apples. 
Ham  and  Eggs. 

Boiled  Hominy.        Stewed  Potatoes. 
Raised  Muffins.  Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 

Fricassee  of  Beef  . 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 

Stewed  Carrots. 

French  Pancakes,  with  Jelly. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Tapioca  Soup. 
Boiled  Bass,  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Potato  Puffs. 
Chicken  Cutlets,  Mushroom  White 

Sauce. 

French  Peas.  Celery. 

Prune  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

Broiled  Sardines  on  Toast. 

Tea  Rolls. 
Cake.         Sliced  Oranges.          Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Fish  Hash.  Brown  Bread. 

Fried  Raised  Cakes.        Toast. 

DINNER. 

Braised  Beef. 

Carrots.  Turnips. 

Baked  Macaroni  and  Cheese. 

Indian  Pudding. 


Cold  Meat. 


Tea  Cakes. 


SUPPER. 

Escaloped  Potatoes. 
Rolls. 

Stewed  Prunes- 
Tea. 


February. 


BREAKFAST. 

Graham  Mush. 
Deviled  Turkey. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Breakfast  Rolls.  Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Mutton  Croquettes. 

Princess  Potatoes. 

Cream-of -Tartar  Biscuit. 

Coddled  Apples.  Tea. 


DINNER. 

Consomme  with  Rice. 
Roast  Turkey,  Giblet  Sauce. 


Celery.  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  Squash. 

French  Vegetable  Salad. 
Grapes.  Oranges. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Smoked  Salmon. 

Cracker  Cream  Toast. 

Granulated  Wheat  Muffins. 

Cake.  Preserves, 

Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Hashed  Beef  on  Toast. 

Stewed  Potatoes.          Graham  Rolls. 

Bread  Griddle-cakes. 


924 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


DINNER. 

Roast  Loin  of  Pork. 
Hot  Brown  Bread.        Apple  Sauce. 
Potatoes.       Squash.     Turnips. 
Baked  Rice  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 
Broiled  Smoked  Herrings. 

Thin  Corn  Bread. 

Toast.    Warm  Molasses  Gingerbread. 
Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy. 

Broiled  Southern  Shad.       Radishes. 
Bermuda  Potatoes,    with  Parsley 

Butter. 

Corn  Muffins.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Garburea  la  Printaniere.         Toast. 
Hot  Tea  Cake.       Coddled  Apples. 
Coffee. 


DINNER. 
Oyster  Soup. 

Roast  Chicken.     Cranberry  Sauce. 
Spinach.          Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Rice. 

Celery  Salad. 
Coffee  Jelly,  with  Whipped  Cream. 


SUPPER. 
Cold  Chicken. 

Rolls.          Cold  Bread.          Waffles. 
Sliced  Oranges.  Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit.  Oatmeal. 

Salt  Fish  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Poached  Eggs. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Rice  Muffins. 

Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

Roast  Ptarmigan,  Bread  Sauce. 

Spinach.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Celery  Salad. 

Crackers.  Cheese. 

Orange  Charlotte. 


SUPPER. 

Escaloped  Meat.          Tea  Rolls. 

Feather  Cake.  Baked  Apples. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
Baked  Salt  Mackerel,  with  Cream 

Sauce. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Corn  Bread. 

Bread  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Broiled  Fish,  Matire  d'Hdtel  Butter. 

Potato  Balls  in  Cream  Sauce. 
Spice  Cake.  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Clear  Soup.  Roast  Beef. 

Roasted  Potatoes.         Stewed  Celery. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Salted  Almonds. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Cider  Jelly. 


SUPPER. 

Broiled  English  Bacon. 

Thin  Fried  Potatoes. 

Muffins.         Toast.         Tea. 

Cake.         Marmalade. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cracked  Wheat.       Hashed  Mutton. 

Poached  Eggs. 
Hashed  and  Browned  Potatoes. 


DINNER. 

Clam  Chowder.  Beefsteak. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 
Baked  Sweat  Potatoes. 

Celery  Salad. 
Sponge  Pudding,  Wine  Sauce. 


SUPPER. 
Creamed  Oysters. 


Tea  Cake. 


Cocoa. 


Rolls. 
Baked  Apples. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Broiled  Ham.  Creamed  Eggs. 

Graham  Muffins.  Waffles. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


926 


LUNCHEON. 

Terrapin  Chicken. 

Rolls.  Baked  Apples. 

Crackers.  Cheese.  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Halibut  au  Gratin. 

Fillet  of  Beef,  Bearnaise  Sauce. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes.          Noodles. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Imperial  Pudding. 

SUPPEB. 

Baked  Eggs.  French  Toast. 

Queen's  Cake.          Preserves. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Corn-Meal  Mush. 

Fried  Sausages. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Rye  Muffins. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef. 
Cabbage.          Turnips. 
Carrots. 
Apple-and-Rice  Pudding. 


Potatoes. 


SUPPER. 

Fried  Smelts.        Potato  Omelet. 
Cracker-and-Milk  Toast. 

Graham  Bread. 

Gingerbread.  Apple  Sauce, 

Tea. 


March. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Jieefsteak.  Eggs  on  Toast. 

Hashed  and  Browned  Potatoes. 

Graham  Puffs. 

Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Tewapin  Veal.      Stewed  Tomatoes. 
Rolls.     Chocolate.     Ginger-snaps. 


DINNER. 

Bisque  of  Beef. 
Oyster  Cutlets,  Anchovy  Sauce. 

Potted  Pigeons. 
Potato  Puffs.  Stewed  Carrots. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Olives.  Crackers.  Cheese. 

Steamed  Batter  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Fish  Omelet.      Broiled  Potatoes. 

Split  Biscuit.  Coddled  Apples. 

Cake.  Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Wheat  Germ  Mush. 

Baked  Hash.  Tomato  Omelet. 

Hominy  Muffin*.          Toast. 


DINNER. 

Irish  Steiv.      Macaroni  with  Cheese. 
Peach-and-Tapioca  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Scrambled  Kggs. 

Toast.  Parker  House  Rolls. 

Cake.  Preserves. 

Tea  or  Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Hominy.  Bananas. 

Broiled  Steak. 
Potatoes    Hashed    and  Browned  in 

Cream. 

Baltimore  Corn  Bread.  Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cold  Meat. 
Egg  Timbales,  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Apple  Tartlet.     •  Tea. 

DINNER. 

Noodle  Soup. 

Baked    Red    Snapper,    Hollandaist 
Sauce. 


926 


MISS   PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Hashed  Potatoes.      Minced  Spinach. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Crackers  and  Cheese. 
Steamed    Cottage    Pudding,    Straio- 
berry  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Ham.  Federal  Loaf. 

Cake.     Preserves.     Coffee. 

BREAKFAST. 

Cracked  Wheat. 

Broiled  Fish. 

Creamed  Potatoes.      Graham  Toast. 
Muffins  Fried  on  the  Griddle. 


DINNER. 

Moiled  Flank  of  Beef  . 
Potatoes.  Creamed  Cabbage. 

Squash. 

Beet  Salad. 

Quaking  Pudding,  Vanilla  Sauce. 


SUPPER. 

Escaloped  Oysters. 

Rolls.  Toasted  Crackers. 

Stewed  Prunes.        Cookies. 

Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Fricawee  of  Chicken.     Boiled  Eggs. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Rolls. 

Hominy  Griddle-calces. 

LUNCHEON. 

Savory  Beef  Collops. 
Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Luncheon  Rolls. 
Molasses  Gingerbread. 


DINNER. 

White  Soup. 
Broiled  Fish,  Dutch  Sauce. 

Riced  Potatoes. 
Braised  Veal. 
Boiled  Parsnips.       Minced  Spinach. 

Cheese  Fondue. 
Vanilla  let-cream.    Chocolate  Cake. 


SUPPER. 

Welsh  Rare-bit.  Tea  Biscuit. 

Canned  Peaches.     Sponge  Cake. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Hominy. 
Fried  Liver  and  Bacon. 

Escaloped  Potatoes. 
Corn  Bread.  Toast. 

Graham  Griddle-cakes. 

DINNER. 

Fish  Chowder. 

Beefsteak. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  Squash. 

Brown  Betty  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Milk  Toast. 
Cream-of-Tartar  Biscuit. 

Baked  Apples. 
Canada  Gingerbread.        Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cracked  Wheat. 
Fricassee  of  Veal. 

Princess  Potatoes. 
Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast.     Rolls. 
Hominy  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 
Stewed  Oysters. 

Cold  Ham.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Cake.      Sliced  Oranges.      Tea. 


DINNER. 
White  Soup. 

Fillets  of  Halibut  a  la  Poulette,  with 
White  Sauce  and  Potato  Cro- 
quettes. 

Mutton-chops. 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cauliflower  in  Cream 
Chantilly  Tartt. 


SUPPER. 
Broiled  Ham.      Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Baked  Apples.      Toast. 
Cake.  Tea. 


Rolls. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


927 


BREAKFAST. 
Hominy  and  Milk. 
Salt  Codfish,  Cream  Sauce. 

Poached  Eggs. 
Baked  Potatoes. 
Cream-of '-Tartar  Biscuit. 
Buckwheat  Cakes. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of -Tapioca  Soup. 
Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce. 


Potatoes.     Mashed  Turnips. 
Boiled  Salsify,  with  Butter  Sauce. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Bread  Pudding,  Vanilla  Sauee. 


SUPPER. 

Broiled  Bacon.       Toasted  Crackers. 

Tea  Rolls.  Cake. 

Chocolate. 


April. 


BREAKFAST. 


Hominy  Flakes. 
Broiled  Kidneys. 

Stewed  Potatoes. 

Tomato  Omelet. 

Entire-  Wheat  Muffins.       Toast. 
Bread  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Ti/nbale  of  Cold  Meat,  Brown  Sauce. 

Macaroni,  with  Cheese. 

Delicate  Molasses  Gingerbread. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Puree  of  Tomatoes. 

Roast  Antelope. 
Currant  Jelly  Sauce. 

Chutney  Sauce. 
Minced  Spinach. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 
Chicory  Salad. 
Frozen  Apricots. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Smoked  Herrings. 
Rolls.  Toasted  Brown  Bread. 

Sponge  Cake. 

Strawberry  Preserve. 
Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Corn-Meal  Mush. 

Salt-Fish  Hath.  Poached  Egga. 

Rolls.  Toast. 


DINNER. 

Roast  Beef. 

Macaroni.         Potatoes. 
Tapioca  Cream. 


Squash. 


SUPPER. 

Omelet.  Brown-Bread  Toast. 

Stewed  Prunes.  Cup  Cake. 

Coffee. 

BREAKFAST. 
Cracked  Wheat. 

Broiled  Ham. 
Potatoes  au  Gratin. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 
Scrambled  Eggs.         Toast. 
Corn  Muffins. 

LUNCHEON. 

Escaloped  Meat. 

Macaroni  a  la  Milanaise. 

Mocha  Cake.  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Okra  Soup. 

Broiled  Whitejish,  Parsley  Butter. 

Roast  Capon.         New  Potatoes. 

'Cauliflower.       Stewed  Oyster  Plant. 

Sorrel  Salad. 
Strawberry  Mousse.  Cake. 

SUPPER. 

Swiss  Eggs. 

Toast.         Cream-of- Tartar  Biscuit. 

Orange  Marmalade.     Crackers. 

Tea. 


928 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Baked  Rice  and  Sausages. 
Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast.  Rolls. 


DINNER. 

Roast  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Currant  Jelly.  Cauliflower. 

Washed  White  Turnips.       Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Cream  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

Fried  Smelts. 

Glazed  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Cream-of-  Tartar  Biscuit.         Toast. 

Cake.       Preserves.        Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Broiled  Halibut.        Stewed  Potatoes. 

Trenton  Corn  Bread.      Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cold  Meat. 

Potato  Salad.        Rolls. 
Cake.         Canned  Peaches.         Tea. 

DlNNBR. 

Cream-of-Barley  Soup. 
Broiled  Mutton  Chops. 
Vegetables  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Potato  Puffs. 

Lettuce-and-Radish  Salad. 
Sunset  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Sardines  on  Toast. 

Pop- Overs.  Waffles.^ 

Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Force-meat  Cakes. 

Broiled  Potatoes. 
Indian-Bread  Brewis. 
Rolls.  Coffee. 


DINNER. 

Tapioca  Soup. 

Braised  Shoulder  of  Veal. 

Beet  Greens.  Potatoes. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Cucumber  Salad. 

Custard  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

Cream  Toast.  Tea^olla. 

Cake.  Stewed  Peach. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Yellow  Corn-Meal  Mush. 

Broiled  Mackerel. 
Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Radishes. 
Hominy  Waffles. 


Rolls. 


LUNCHEON. 


Fricassee  of  Cold  Roast  Beef. 

Rice.  Swedish  Rolls. 

Chocolate. 


DINNER. 

Sorrel  Soup. 
Baked  Shad,  Sauce  Allemande. 

Green  Peas. 
Breaded    Mutton    Cutlets,     Tomato 

Sauce. 

Potatoes.  Mashed  Parsnips. 

Water  Crackers.       Cheese. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Lady  Fingers.         Tapioca  Custard. 


SUPPER. 

Fried  Scallops,  with  Water-cresses. 

Raised  Muffins.  Toast. 

Cake.      Preserves.        Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Broiled  Calf's  Liver. 

Hashed  Potatoes. 
Plain  Omelet. 
Corn  Bread.  Toa$t. 


BILLS   OF   FARE. 


929 


DINNER. 

SUPPER. 

Ragout  of  Mutton. 
Turnips.       Boiled  Rice.       Carrots. 
Blanc-mange. 

Rolls. 
Cake. 

Frizzled  Beef. 
Toast. 
Canned  Peaches. 
Tea. 

May. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
White  Fricassee  of  Chicken. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Raised  Muffins.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Blanquette  of  Veal. 

Turkish  Rice.  Rolls. 

Chocolate. 


DINNER. 

Potato  Soup. 
Fried  Brook  Trout.    Brown  Bread. 

Roast  Lamb,  Piquant  Sauce. 
String  Beans.        Stuffed  Egg-plant. 

Tomato  Salad. 
Frozen  Rice  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Smoked  Salmon. 
Cream  Toast. 

Granulated  Wheat  Muffins. 
Feather  Cake.  Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Boiled  Eggs. 
E$caloped  Potatoes. 

Minced  Beef  on  Toast. 
Hominy  Muffins.        Graham  Bread. 

DINNER. 

Boiled  Fowl,  Butter  Sauce. 
Asparagus.    Mashed  Potatoes. 

Turnips. 

Macaroni,  with  Cream  Sauce. 
Sliced  Pineapple. 


SUPPER. 


Egg  Salad. 

Toast.         Sally  Lunn. 

Stewed  Prunes.  Queen  Cake. 

Cocoa. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Fried  English  Bacon. 

Thin  Fried  Potatoes.     Boiled  Egg.«. 

Raised  Wheat  Muffins.      Toast. 

LUNCHEON. 

Blanquette  of  Calf's  Liver. 

Stewed  Macaroni. 
Swedish  Rolls.  Coffee. 


DINNER. 

Chicken  Broth. 
Boiled  Fish,  White  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 

Beefsteak,  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Asparagus.  New  Beets. 

Dandelion  Salad. 

Pineapple  Jelly. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Sweetbreads,  Cream  Sauce. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Cake.  Marmalade. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fish  Balh.  Fried  Mush. 

Rolls.  Toast. 


DINNER. 

Potato  Soup. 

Mutton  Cutlets,  Breaded,  with 
mato  Sauce. 


To- 


930 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


Mashed  Potatoes. 

Fried  Salsify. 

Dressed  Lettuce.  Crackers. 

Oranges  and  Bananas. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Smoked  Herring. 
Rolls.  Cracker  Toast. 

Rhubarb  Sauce. 

Thin  Gingerbread. 
Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Minced  Veal.  Fish  Croquettes. 

Radishes.      Rolls.       Toast. 

Hominy  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Fricassee  of  Lobster. 

Boiled  Rice. 

Toast.  Tea. 

Canned  Pears,  with  Cream. 

DINNER. 

Duchess  Soup. 

Lamb  Cutlets,  Asparagus  Sauce. 

Casserole  of  Potatoes.     Green  Peas. 

Escaloped  Calves1  Brains. 

Roasted  Cheese. 

Wine  Custard. 


SUPPER. 

Deviled  Ham. 

Hashed  Potatoes.  Rolls. 

Spice  Cake.          Preserves. 

BREAKFAST. 

Granulated  Yellow  Corn  Meal  Mush. 

Broiled  Tripe. 

Baked  Eggs.  Potato  Omelet. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

LUNCHEON. 

Beefsteak. 
Boiled  Rice.  Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Canned  Corn. 
Tapioca  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 
Spiced  Salmon. 

Pop-Overs.     Toast.     Cottage  Cheete 
Cake.  Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 
Wheat  Germ  Mush. 
Brown  Fricassee  of  Sheep's  Tongues. 
Plain  Omelet. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Graham  Pop-Overs.  Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 
Broiled  Fish,  Maitre  d'Hdtel  Butter. 

Potato  Balls.      Cucumbers. 
Toasted  Soda  Crackers. 

Orange  Marmalade. 
Tea. 


DINNER. 

Cream  of  Clams. 

Roast  Lamb. 

Mint  Sauce.        Brown  Gravy. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  Asparagus. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Alpine  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Curried  Eggs. 

Potato  Rolls.       Chocolate.        Toast 

Sponge  Cake. 
Strawberries  and  Cream. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Corned- Beef  Hash. 

Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast. 
Rolls. 

DINNER. 

Broiled  Fish. 

Braised  Calf's  Liver. 

Potatoes.         Boiled  Turnipt. 

Dandelions. 
Corn-starch  Blanc-mange. 


Tea. 


SUPPER. 
Broiled  Bacon. 


Toatt. 


Cake. 


Preserves. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


981 


June. 


BREAKFAST. 


Sliced  Pineapple. 
Broiled  Mackerel. 

Hashed  Potatoes. 
Eggs  on  Toast.      Crumpets. 
Indian  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Steamed  Clams.      Toasted  Crackers. 
Fruit.      feed  Tea.       Cake. 

DINNER. 

Julienne  Soup. 
Baked  Sweetbreads,  Cream  Sauce. 

Asparagus. 
Roast  Lamb,  with  Mint  and  Brown 

Sauce. 
String  Beans.  New  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Philadelphia  Ice-cream. 

Vienna  Wafers. 


SUPPER. 

Deviled  Biscuit.  Rolls. 

Chocolate.  Little  Fancy  Cakes. 


BREAKFAST. 

Graham  Mush,  with  Milk. 
Broiled  Salt  Fish.     Baked  Potatoes. 
Entire-Wheat  Muffins.       Toast. 
Berries  and  Cream. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of-  Tapioca  Soup. 

Boiled  Fowl,  White  Sauce. 

Green  Peas.  New  Potatoes. 

Summer  Squash. 

Cucumber  Salad. 

Raspberry  Jelly. 

SUPPER. 
Milk  Toatt.        Cold  Fowl.        Rolls. 


Cakt. 


Sliced  Pineapple. 
Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Corn-Meal  Mush. 
Cuban  Eggs.  Broiled  Bacon. 

Creamed  Potatoes. 
Butter  Toast.  Graham  Muffins. 

•   LUNCHEON. 

Salt  Fish  in  Cream  Sauce,  with  Puree 

of  Potatoes. 
Strawberry  Short-cake.  Tea. 

DINNER. 

Clam  Soup. 

Brown  Fricassee  of  Veal. 

Boiled  Salsify.         Minced  Spinach . 

Curried  Rice. 

Spinach  Salad. 

Crackers.        Cheese. 

Velvet  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Milk  Toast.        Cold  Meat.       Rolls. 


Strawberries. 
Cocoa. 


Cake. 


BREAKFAST. 

Strawberries.          Hominy. 
Broiled  Breakfast  Bacon. 

Soft  Boiled  Eggs. 
Graham  Puffs.      Toast. 
Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Crab-and-Tomato  Bisque. 
Roast  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce. 

Asparagus. 

Carrots,  with  Cream  Sauce, 
Mashed  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Bananas  with  Whipped  Cream. 

SUPPER. 

Frizzled  Beef. 

Tea  Rolls.  Toast, 

Preserves.  Ice-cream  Cake. 

Tea. 


932 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BREAKFAST. 

Strawberries. 
Mutton  Croquettes. 

Salt  Fish  in  Cream. 
Potato  Balls,  Parsley  Sauce. 
Rolls.  Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 
Jellied  Chicken. 

French  Fried  Potatoes.        *    Olives. 

Toast.  Chocolate. 

Lemon  Cream. 


DINNER. 

Normandy  Soup. 
Halibut  a  la  Creole.         Boiled  Rice. 

Stuffed  Breast  of  Veal. 
Brown  Gravy. 

Grated  Horseradish. 
Creamed  Onions. 
Mashed  Potatoes.  Green  Peas. 

Sorrel  Salad. 

Strawberry  Ice-cream. 

Delicate  Cake. 


SUPPER. 
Broiled  Bacon. 

Raited  Wheat  Waffles.  Toast. 

Cake.  Pineapple. 


BREAKFAST. 

Strawberries.  Hominy. 

Lamb  Chops.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Baked  Oatmeal  Muffins. 

Toast. 

DINNER. 

Fricassee  of  Chicken. 
Gre  en  Peas.  Boiled  Rice . 

New  Potatoes. 
Lettuce-and-Radish  Salad. 
Graham  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Poached  Eggs.      Cream  Biscuit. 

Berrie$.  Hard  Gingerbread. 

Tea.  Toast. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
Salt  Fish  and  Egys  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Toast. 

Entire-  Wheat  Muffins. 

Bread  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Ragout  of  Mutton. 
Escaloped  Tomatoes.  Rolls. 

Strawberries  and  Cream. 
Sponge  Cake.  Tea. 


DINNER. 

Baked  Salmon  Trout,  Brown  Sauce. 
Princess  Potatoes.      Cucumbers. 

Roast  Capon,  Bread  Sauce. 

Green  Peas.  String  Beans. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Charlotte  Russe. 


SUPPER. 

Frizzled  Beef. 

Milk  Toast.        Parker  House  Rolls. 

Cake.  Berries. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Baked  Oatmeal. 

Cold  Meat. 

Tomato  Omelet.          Fried  Potatoes. 

Spider  Corn  Cake. 

Graham  Toast. 


DINNER. 

Fricassee  of  Cold  Meat,  with  Baked 

Dumplings. 

Mashed  Turnip.       Minced  Spinach. 
Leche  Crema. 


SUPPER. 

Egg  Salad. 

Toast.  Cocoa. 

Orange  Marmalade. 

Soda  Cracken. 


Rolls. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


933 


July. 


BREAKFAST. 


Berries. 

Broiled  Chicken. 
Baked  Potatoes. 

Water-cresses  and  Tomatoes  on  Ice. 
Rolls.  Toast. 

LUNCHEON. 

Eicaloped  Shrimps. 

Cold  Tongue.  Potato  Omelet. 

Toast.  Iced  Tea. 

Bananas. 


DINNER. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup. 
Breaded  Fillets  of  Flounder,  Tomato 

Sauce. 
Lamb  Chops,  Mattre  d'Hdtel  Butter. 

Green  Peas.     Mashed  Potatoes. 
Russian  Jelly.  Soft  Custard. 


SUPPER. 

Jellied  Calf  Js  Head.      Olives. 
French  Toast. 

Cream-of -Tartar  Biscuit. 
Chocolate.          Wafers. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Meat  and  Rice  Croquettes. 

Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast. 

Graham  Muffins. 


DINNER. 

Tapioca  Soup. 

Roast  Beef. 

Potatoes.  Summer  Squash. 

Cauliflower. 

Dressed  Cucumbers. 
Peaches  and  Cream.  Cake. 

SUPPER. 

Thin-sliced  Cold  Boiled  Ham. 

Thin-tliced  Bread. 
Sttwed  Pears.  Cake. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit.  Hominy. 

Eggs  on  Toast.  Fish  Balls. 

Rolls.      Boston  Brown  Bread. 

LUNCHEON. 

Bean  Soup.       Toasted  Bread. 

Cold  Meat.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Blackberries.        Feather  Cake. 

Iced  Tea. 

DINNER. 
Fillets  of  Halibut,  a  la  Poulette. 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 

Lamb  Chops.  Green  Peas. 

New  Beets.        Cauliflower. 

Water-cress  Salad. 

Frozen  Raspberries. 

SUPPER. 

Jellied  Veal. 

Cream-of-  Tartar  Biscuit. 

Berries.         Cake.         Tea 

BREAKFAST. 

Hominy. 

Broiled  Fish.       Escaloped  Potatoes. 

Graham  Rolls.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Brown  Fricassee  of  Veal. 
Boiled  Rice.  String  Beans. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 
Steamed  Berry  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 
Cold  Tongue. 

Butter  Toast.  Sally  Lunn. 

Sponge  Cake.          Apricots. 

Tea  or  Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Cantaloupe. 

Broiled  Halibut.        Baked  Potatoes, 

White  Com  Muffins.          Toast. 

Wilted  Cucumbers. 


934 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


LUNCHEON. 

Curry  of  Cold  Lamb.     Boiled  Rice. 

Baked  Bananas. 
Soda  Crackers.       Tea. 


DINNER. 

Chicken  Broth. 
Baked  Fish,  with  Tomato  Sauce,  and 

Garnished  with  Baked  Tomatoes. 
Mashed  Potatoes.          String  Beans. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Peaches  and  Cream.    Delicate  Cake. 

SUPPER. 
Roast  dams. 

Buttered  Brown  Bread. 
Rolls.  Berries. 

Tea  Cake.  Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 
Oatmeal  Berries. 

Veal  Cutlets. 

French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

DINNER. 

Lamb  Chops. 

Thin  Fried  Potatoes. 

Escaloped  Cauliflower.    Green  Peas. 

Vegetable  Salad. 
Silver-and-Gold  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Meat. 

Toast.  Graham  Bread. 

Water  Crackers.         Cake. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Blackberries.  Oatmeal. 

Creamed  Eggs.  Broiled  Tripe. 

Fried  Potatoes. 
Corn  Muffins.  Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 

Salt-Fish  Nash.        Sliced  Tomatoef. 

Toasted  Brown  Bread. 

Swedish  Rolls. 


DINNER. 

Baked  Fish,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Potato  Balls. 

Chicken  Stew,  with  Norfolk  Dump- 
lings. Green  Peas. 
Pineapple  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

French  Toast.  Potato  Salad. 

Rolls.  Strawberries. 

Cake.  Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Strawberries. 
Broiled  Breast  of  Lamb. 

Fried  Hominy. 
Corn  Bread.         Rolls. 


DINNER. 

Roast  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce. 

Green  Peas.        Beets.         Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

SUPPER. 

Milk  Toast.  Rolls. 

Berries.  Sponge  Cake. 

Tea. 


August. 


BREAKFAST. 

Blackberries. 

Granulated  Wheat  Mush. 

Broiled  Chicken.        Baked  Potatoes. 

Rolls  Toast 


LUNCHEON. 

Cold  Calves'  Tongues. 
Vegetables  a  la  Jardiniere. 
Blueberry  Cake. 
Tea. 


BILLS   OF   FARE. 


935 


DINNER. 

Boiled  Turbot,  Shrimp  Sauce. 
Potato  Balls,  with  Parsley  Butter. 

Veal  Cutlets,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Peat.          Green  Corn.  Beans 

Cress  Salad. 

Fruit. 


SUPPER. 
Waffles. 
Berries.  Cake. 


Toast. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Lamb's  Liver  Saute. 
Baked  Potatoes. 
Corn  Bread.  Toast. 

DINNER. 

Potato  Soup. 

Stewed  Chicken. 

Shelled  Beans.  Potatoes. 

Green  Corn. 

Tomato  Salad. 

Berry  Pudding,  Hard  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 
Broiled  Salt  Fish. 

Creamed  Potatoes. 
Toast.          Ground  Rice  Bread. 
Berries.         Ginger-snaps.  Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

White  Corn-Meal  Mush. 
Halibut  Fish  Balls.  Soft-boiled  Eggs. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 
Entire-  Wheat  Muffins.       Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 

Ragout  of  Lamb.         Riced  Potatoes. 
Light  Cake.          Blackberries. 

DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Roast  Beef,  Horseradish  Sauce. 
Succotash.        Roasted  Potatoes. 

Squash. 
Lettuce  Salad. 
Jellied  Peaches. 


SUPPER 
Cold  Tongue. 

Toast.  Hot  Blueberry  Cake. 

Crackers.  Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Broiled  Bacon.    Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 
Johnny-cake.  Coffee. 


DINNER. 

Fried  Fish. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 

Green  Corn.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Dressed  Cucumbers. 
Baked  Blueberry  Pudding,   Golden 
Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Frizzled  Beef.  Milk  Toast. 

Cold  Bread.  Gingerbi'ead. 

Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Broiled  Chicken. 

French  Fried  Potatoes.  Roils. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 
Savory  Beef  Collops. 

Mashed  Turnips. 
Potato  Salad. 
Soft  Molasses  Gingerbi'ead.         Tea. 


DINNER. 

Baked  Fish,  Dutch  Sauce. 

Potato  Puffs. 

Breaded  Veal  Cutlets,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Cauliflower  au  Gratin. 

Stewed  Carrots. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Frozen  Rice  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

Toast.         Woffles.          Cold  Brenrt, 

Peaches  and  Cream.         Cake. 

Chocolate. 


936 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Ham  Cakes.     Plain  Omelet, 
liaised  Wheat  Muffins.  Toast. 


DINNER. 

Braised  Beef'. 

Shelled  Beans.  Potatoes, 

Baked  Tomatoes. 
Grapes  and  Apples. 


SUPPER. 
Potato  Omelet. 

Cold  Graham  Bread.         Toast. 
Baked  Pears.        Lemon  Jelly  Cake. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cantaloupe. 

Calf's  Liver,  with  Cream  Sauce. 
Hashed  Potatoes.          Rolls. 

Tomato  Omelet. 
Green  Corn  Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Ma  at  i  -oni-  a  nd-  Tomato  Soup . 

Loin  of  Veal,  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Rice  Croquettes. 

Water-cress  Salad. 

Peach  Mousse. 


SUPPER. 

Anchocy  Toast.          Tea  Biscuit. 
Cake.        Blackberries.       Chocolate 


BREAKFAST. 

Wheat  Germ  Miish. 
Salt  Fish  in  Egg  Sauce. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Graham  Rolls.     Dry  Toast. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Lamb. 

Potatoes.  Mashed  Turnips. 

Green  Corn  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Tomato  Salad. 
Cold  Custard  Pudding. 


LUNCHEON.  SUPPER. 

Fried  Clams.         Cold  Meat.  Scrambled  Eggs. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Cream-of-Tartar  Biscuit. 

Pears.       Grapes.        Soda  Crackers,  i  Cold  Graham  Bread. 

Tea.  \  Sliced  Peaches.  Sponge  Cake. 


September. 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  Snowjlakes. 
Lamb  Chops.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Boiled  Eggs. 
Entire-  Wheat  Rolls.  Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 
Broiled  Fish. 

Mashed  Potatoes.     Sliced  Tomatoes. 
Pears  and  Grapes. 

DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Roast  Chicken. 

Green  Corn.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Stuffed  Cucumbers. 
Cauliflower  Salad.     Frozen  Peaches. 


SUPPER. 

Cold  Tongue.        Potato  Salad. 

Rolls.  English  Brown  Bread. 

Coddled  Apples.      Ginger-snaps. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 
Cracked  Wheat. 

Coi'ned-Beef  Hash .         Boiled  Eggs. 
Corn  Cake. 


Toast. 


DINNER. 
Stuffed  and  Rolled  Shoulder   of 

Mutton. 
Mashed  Turnips.     Mashed  Potatoes 

Escaloped  Tomatoes. 
Apple-Tapioca  Pudding. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


937 


SUPPER. 

Cracker-and-Milk  Toast. 
Entire-  Wheat  Bread. 

Baked  Apples. 
Gingerbread.  Cocoa. 

BREAKFAST. 

Grapes.  Oatmeal. 

Broiled  Chicken. 

Potatoes  Broicned  in  Cream  Sauce. 
Graham  Muffins.         Toast. 
Qreen  Corn  Griddle-cakes. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Wheat  Germ  Mush. 

Escaloped  Mutton.      Poached  Egys 

Corn  Bread.  Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 

BeefPastie. 

Sliced  Tomatoes.       Graham  Bread. 

Cream  Cookies.    Sliced  Peaches. 

Chocolate. 


LUNCHEON. 
Cold  Lamb. 

Breaded  and  Fried  Tomatoes. 

Toasted  Rolls.  Tea. 

Grapes  and  Pears. 

DINNER. 

Onion  Soup. 

Broiled  White  or  Blue  Fish. 
Potato  Balls,  with  Parsley  Sauce. 
Breaded   Mutton    Cutlets,    Tomato 

Sauce. 

Boiled  Salsify.  Lima  Beans. 

Peaches  and  Cream. 

SUPPER. 
Egg  Salad. 

Toast.  Rice  Muffins. 

Scotch  Cake.  Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

H*h  Balls.  Plain  Omelet. 

Graham  Rolls.  Toast. 

Fried  Indian  Mush. 

DINNER. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce. 
Turnips.     Carrots.     Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Baked  Apple  Pud  din  y. 

SUPPER. 

Welsh  Rare-bit. 

Cream-of- Tartar  Biscuit. 

Sponge  Cake.  Sliced  Peaches. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 
Okra-and-Rice  Soup. 

Walled  Chicken. 

Cauliflower.     Corn.     Pickled  Beet*. 
Shrimp  Salad. 
Coffee  Ice-cream. 


SUPPER. 

Fricassee  of  Lobster. 

Washington  Rolls.  Cold  Bread. 

Cake.      Preserves.        Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Indian  Meal  Mush 

Fried  Liver  and  Bacon. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Rolls. 

Bread  Griddle-calces. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Beef. 

Creamed  Onions.       Squash. 

M nshed  Potatoes.  Beet  Salad. 

Fruit. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Sliced  Beef. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Grali rim  Muffins.  Toatt 

Cake.  Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cantaloupe. 
Broiled  Bluefish. 
Hashed  Brown  Potatoes. 

Sliced  Cucumbers. 
Toast.  Graham  Rolls. 


938 


MISS  PARLOA'S   KITCHEN   COMPANION. 


LUNCHEON. 

Lobster  Newburg. 
Chopped-Paste  Cakes. 

Dinner  Rolls. 

Peaches.  Grapes. 

Cofee. 

DINNER. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

Fried  Chicken,  with  Caulijlower. 

Green  Corn.  Lima  Beans. 

Tomato  Salad. 

Fresh  Fruit. 


SUPPER. 

Savory  Omelet. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Berries.  Soft  Gingerbread. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 
Berries.         Graham  Mush. 

Baked  Croquettes. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 
Dropped  Biscuit.         Toast. 

DINNER. 

Chicken  Soup. 
Boiled  Fish,  Bechamel  fellow  Sauce. 

Sliced  Cucumbers.      Potatoes. 
Green  Corn.  Lettuce  Salad. 

Peach  Short-cake,  with   Whipped 
Cream. 


SUPPER. 

Cold  Meat. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Blackberries. 

Soft  Molasses  Gingerbread 
Tea. 


October. 


BREAKFAST. 


Hominy  and  Cream. 

Fish  Balls.  Omelet. 

Brown  Bread.  Rolls. 

Wheat  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Fried  Oysters.     Celery  Salad. 

Federal  Loaf.      Cold  Brown  Bread. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Oyster  Soup. 

Roast  Partridge,  Bread  Sauce. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes.    Mashed  Potatoes. 

Cauliflower  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Celery  Salad. 
Pears  and  Grapes. 


SUPPER. 
Cream  Toast. 
White  Bread. 

English  Brown  Bread. 
Cake.  Preserves. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cantaloupe. 
Cracked  Wheat. 

Ham  and  Eggs.          Baked  Hominy, 
Corn  Muffins.  Toast. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Leg  of  Mutton,  Currant  Jelly. 

Squash.       Mashed  Turnips. 

Potatoes.  Lettuce  Salad. 

Brown  Betty  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 
Lyonnaise  Potatoes.     Broiled  Bacon. 

Cream-of-Tartar  Biscuit. 
Apple  Sauce.         Cookies.        Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Fried  Perch.  Stewed  Potatoes. 

Toast.  Raised  Muffins. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Brunswick  Stew.   Spider  Corn  Cake. 
Toast.         Tea.          Fruit. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


939 


DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Broiled  Chicken,  Tartar  Sauce. 
Cauliflower. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

White  Potatoes. 
Escarole  Salad. 
Ice-cream. 


SUPPER. 

Cold  Tongue.        Escaloped  Potatoes. 
Toast.  Cream  Waffles. 


Cake. 


Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  and  Milk. 

Omelet.  Creamed  Potatoes. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

DINNER. 

Pot  Roast. 

Turnips.  Squash. 

Sliced  Tomatoes.  Potatoes. 

Canadian  Apple  Pudding,  Nutmeg 
Sauce. 

SUPPER. 
Cold  Beef  .  Graham  Toast. 

Bread  Griddle-cakes. 
Baked  Apples.       Cup  Cake.        Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Cracked  Wheat. 
Broiled  Salt  Ftsh. 

Baked  Eggs.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Baltimore  Corn  Bread.      Toast. 

Graham  Griddle-cakes. 


LUNCHEON. 

Deviled  Scallops.  Boiled  Rice. 

Squash  Pie.  Toast. 

Tec,. 


DINNER. 

Scotch  Broth. 

Fillets  of  Halibut,  a  la  Poulette. 
Potato  Balls,  Parsley  Butter. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes. 

French  Vegetable  Salad. 

Baked  Quinces,  with  Cream. 


SUPPER. 
Cream-of-  Tartar  Biscuit. 

Broiled  Smoked  Salmon. 
Coddled  Apples.      Sponge  Cake. 
Chocolate. 

BREAKFAST, 

Oatmeal. 

Fish  Hash.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Toasted  Brown  Bread.  Rolh. 

DINNER. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef. 
Cabbage.  Turnips. 

Beets.  Potatoes. 

Rolled  Apple  Pudding,  Lemon  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Fried  Bacon.  Boiled  Hominy. 

Cold  Graham  Bread. 

Toast.  Cake. 

Cocoa. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Broiled  Breast  of  Lamb. 

Baked  Potatoet. 
Rolls.  Toast. 

Fried  Mush. 


LUNCHEON. 

Jugged  Rabbit.  Boiled  Rice. 

Baked  Apples.         Sponge  Cake. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of-Cauliflower  Soup. 
Fillet  of  Bass,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Mushed  Potatoes. 
Boiled  Fowl,  Poulette  Sauce. 
Boiled  Salsify.  Celery. 

Macaroni  in  Cream  Sauce. 
Strawberry  Meringue. 

SUPPER. 

Cream  Toast. 

Rolls.  Soda  Crackers. 

Baked  Pears.  Cup  Cake. 

Chocolate. 


940 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


BREAKFAST. 

Wheat  Germ  Mush. 

Pork  Chops.  Hominy. 

Graham  Muffins.         Toast. 


DINNER. 

Fish  Chowder.       Crackers. 
Cold  Corned  Beef. 


Mashed  Potatoes. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Cottage  Pudding,  Lemon  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 
Corned-Beef  Hash. 

Cream-of- Tartar  Biscuit. 
Spice  Cake.      Apple  Sauce. 
Tea. 


November. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Oatmeal. 

Mutton  Chops. 

Egg  Nests  on  Toast. 

Potatoes  au  Gratin. 
Granulated  Wheat  Muffins.      Toast. 


LUNCHEON. 
Cold  Meat. 

Baked  Potatoes.       Tomato  Fritters. 
Swedish  Rolls.  Pears. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of -Celery  Soup. 
Roast  Grouse,  Bread  Sauce. 
Potato  Croquettes. 

Cauliflower  in  Cream  Sauce. 
Oyster  Salad. 
Orange  Custard. 


SUPPER. 

Cold  Meat.    Potato  Omelet. 

Rolls.  Toast.  Cake. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  and  Milk. 

Baked  Sausages.       Baked  Potatoes. 

Spider  Corn  Cake.      Toast. 


SUPPER. 

Fish  Hash.       Rye  Muffins. 

Cold  Bread.  Apple  Sauce. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 
Hominy  and  Milk. 
Pork  Tenderloins. 

Savory  Omelet.          Baked  Potatoes. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Roast  Beef. 
Stewed  Cabbage.   Indian  Dumplings. 

Potatoes. 
Baked  Rice  Pudding. 


LUNCHEON. 

Scotch  Broth.  Rolls. 

Crackers  and  Cheese.  Rice  Pudding. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Baked  Fish,  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 
Cuyry  of  Chicken. 

Soiled  Rice.  Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Apple  Dumplings,  Lemon  Cream 
Sauce. 

Grapes.  Pears. 


SUPPER. 

Cold  Meat.          Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Cream-of- Tartar  Biscuit . 

Toast.        Cnke.        Coddled  Apples. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Meat-and-Rice  Croquettes. 

Soft-boiled  -Eggs- 
Raised  Graham  Rolls. 
Buckivheat  Cakes 


BILLS   OF  FAKE. 


941 


DINNER. 

Baked  Fish,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 
Cold  Meat. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Escaloped  Cauliflower. 
Steamed  Graham  Pudding, 

Golden  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Oyster  Stew.  Toasted  Crackers. 

Graham  Bread.     Baked  Apples. 

Gingerbread.         Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Broiled  Mutton  Chops. 

Saratoga  Potatoes. 
Fried  Graham  Muffins.      Toast. 
Rice  Griddle-calces. 


LUNCHEON. 

Tomato  Omelet.  Hot  Biscuit. 

Toast.       ,     Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Fried  Flounder,  Tartar  Sauce. 

Potato  Croquettes. 
Venison  Cutlets. 
Fried  Sweet  Potatoes.     Cauliflower. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Peach  Ice-cream.         Cake. 


SUPPER. 

Chicken  Omelet. 

Cracker  Toast.    Graham  Bread. 

Steamed  Custards.  Cake. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
Escaloped  Mutton. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 
Waffles. 


DINNER. 

Mutton  Cutlets,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Potatoes.  Stewed  Carrots. 

Macaroni,  with  Cheese. 

Oyster  Salad. 
Neapolitan  Mousse.  Cake. 


SUPPER. 

Golden  Buck. 

Parker  House  Rolls.         Toast. 
Hard  Gingerbread. 

Orange  Marmalade. 
Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Yellow  Corn-Meal  Mush. 

Hashed  Turkey.          Fried  Hominy. 

Toast.  Graham  Rolls. 

Wheat  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 

Escaloped  Oysters. 

Parker  Home  Rolls. 
Baked  Apples.     Sugar  Gingerbread. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Ox-Tail  Soup. 

Baked  Red  Snapper,  Dutch  Sauce. 
Potato  Puffs. 

Roast  Ham,  Madeira  Sauce. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Stewed  Celery. 

Escarole  Salad. 

Orange  Snow  Pudding, 

Fruit.  Coffee. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
-Baked  Apples. 

Fried  Liver.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Corn  Bread.         Toast. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Pork.  Apple  Sauce. 

Squash.  Turnip. 

Steamed  Indian  Bread. 

Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Cream  Pudding. 

SUPPER. 

Fish  Omelet. 

Rolls.  Toasted  Indian  Bread. 

Stewed  Prunes.  Cake. 

Cocoa. 


942 


MISS  PARLOA'S  KITCHEN  COMPANION. 


December. 


BREAKFAST. 


Crushed  Wheat. 
Venison  Steak. 

Duchess  Potatoes.  Boiled  Eggs. 

Rye  Muffins.  Toast. 

Rice  Griddle-cakes. 

LUNCHEON. 
Shepherd's  Pie. 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Dinner  Apple  Sauce. 

Luncheon  Rolls. 
Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Oyster  Bisque. 

Roast  Turkey,  Cranberry  Sauce. 
Cauliflower.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Squash. 
Celery  Salad. 

Imperial  Pudding,  Strawberry 
Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Tongue. 

Hashed  and  Browned  Potatoes. 

Bread.  Toast.  Cake. 

Tea. 

BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  and  Milk. 

Baked  Sausages.      Stewed  Potatoes. 

Com  Bread.         Toast. 


DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Baked  Beans.  Brown  Bread. 

Pickles.       Baked  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Flummery,  with  Custard  Sauce. 

SUPPER. 
Quaker  Omelet.          Fried  Hominy. 


Rottg. 


Molasses  Gingerbread. 
Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 


Rye-Meal  Mush . 
Mutton  Chops.  Savory  Omelet. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Graham  Muffins.         Toast. 

LUNCHEON. 

Escaloped  Fish.     Creamed  Potatoes. 

Toast.  Chocolate. 

Crystallized  Apples. 

DINNER. 

Oyster  Soup. 
Calf's  Head,   Terrapin  Style,  wit) 

Brain  Force-meat  Balls. 
Parsnips.        Spinach.        Potatoes. 
Lettuce  Salad. 
Lemon  Jelly. 

SUPPER. 

Broiled  Bacon. 

Pop-Overs.  Toast. 

Fig  Cake.  Canned  Raspberries 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 
Breaded  Veal  Cutlets. 

French  Fried  Potatoes. 
Graham  Muffins.      Corn  Bread. 
Hominy  Griddle-cakes. 


DINNER. 

Boiled  Turkey,  White  Sauce. 

Potato  Puffs.  Mashed  Turnips. 

Macaroni  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Oyster  Salad. 

Stewed  Apples,  with  Cream. 
Sponge  Cake.       Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Meat-and-Hominy  Croquettes. 

Brown-Bread  Toast.        Cold  Bread. 

Baked  Sweet  Apples  and  Cream. 

Cake.  Tea. 


BILLS  OF   FARE. 


943 


LUNCHEON. 

Cold  Meat. 

Macedoine  of  Vegetables. 

Toast.  Chocolate. 

Fruit. 


DINNER. 

Boiled  Bass,  Egg  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 

Beefsteak,  Maitre  # 'Hotel  Butter. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Mashed  Turnips. 
Prune  Pudding,  Custard  Sauce. 


SUPPEK. 

Fried  Oysters. 

Brown-Bread  Toast. 

Parker  House  Rolls. 

Cake.  Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Yellow  Corn-Meal  Mush. 

Broiled  Tripe.     Lyonnaise  Potatoes. 

Rolls.  Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 


DINNER. 

Potato  Soup. 

Roast  Ham,  Cider  Sauce. 
Mashed  Potatoes. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Creamed  Onions. 

Corn-starch    Pudding,     Strawberry 
Sauce. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Ham. 

Potato  Salad,        Graham  Rolls. 

Baked  Apples.     Sugar  Gingerbread. 

Cocoa. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oranges. 
Whitt  Fricauee  of  Chicken. 


Potatoes  au  Gratin. 

Graham  Muffins 
Waffles. 

LUNCHEON. 

Fried  Oysters,  on  Fried  Brown 
Bread. 

Cabbage  Salad. 
Toast.          Baked  Apples.  Tea. 

DINNER. 

Ox-Tail  Soup. 
Escaloped  Fish.    9 
Roast  Duck,  Orange  Sauce. 
Hominy  Croquettes. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Celery. 
Coffee  Jelly,  with  Whipped  Cream. 


SUPPER. 

Curried  Oysters. 

Toast.  Pop-Over^ 

Apple  Sauce.        Cup  Cake. 

Chocolate. 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal. 

Baked  Hash.  Soft-boiled  Eggs, 

Graham  Rolls.  Toast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

DINNER. 

Celery  Soup. 
Roast  Ribs  of  Pork. 
Apple  Sauce. 

Steamed  Indian  Bread. 
Potatoes.  Squash.          Turnips. 

Chicory  Salad. 
Oranges.  Grapes. 


SUPPER. 
Cold  Meat. 

Rollt.  Graham  Toast. 

Cake.         Stewed  Prune».          Tea, 


INDEX. 


AN    IDEAL    KITCHEN. 


Page 

CHINA-CLOSET 25 

Diagram 26 

KITCHEN,  AN  IDEAL      ...        9 

Diagrams 10,  13 

Dresser 14 

Floor 11 

Range 16 

Sink.     .     . 12 

Size  of  room 10 


Page 

Tables 14 

Ventilation 11 

Views  of  kitchen  ...  15,  16 

PANTRY 17 

Diagram 18 

STOREROOM 19 

Cold  storeroom 23 

Supplies,  list  of 22 


KITCHEN    FURNISHING. 


INTRODUCTION 29 

Articles,  list  of  necessary     .     .  29 

Ash-barrel     ....*...  57 

Baking-dishes,  silver  ....  51 

Baking-pans 44 

Border-mould 44 

Braising-pan 52 

Brush-rack 56 

Cake-boxes 55 

Cake-pans,  fancy 43 

Cake-turner 42 

Can-openers 43 

Chafing-dish 54 

Charlotte-russe  pan     ....  49 

Chocolate-pot 40 

Chopping-knife 37 

Chopping-tray 36 

Cleaver 52 

Clock 57 

Coal-hod .     .  56 

Coffee-mill,  French      ....  38 

Cups,  measuring 53 

Cutters,  —  vegetable,  pattie,  vol- 

au-vent,  biscuit,  doughnut    .  .50 

Dariole-moulds 

Dredgers,  —  salt,  pepper,  flour, 

and  sugar 

Egg-coddler 39 

Egg-poacher 39 

Filter,  flannel 55 


Fish-kettle 


34 


Frying-pan 35 

Frying-pan,  granite     ....  36 

Garbage-barrel 57 

Gem-pans 35 


Glass  jars 
Granite-ware 


Gratin-dishes 51 


Griddle      . 
Ham-boiler 


Iron  utensils  . 


Knife-board 56 


Lemon-squeezer 
Measuring-cups . 
Meat-chopper 
Meat-pan  grates 
Meat-press  .  . 
Meat-safe  .  . 


52 
53 

38 
38 
:38 
54 


Mixing-bowls 54 

Mortar  and  pestle 38 

Moulds,  —  dariole,    jelly,    ice- 
cream,   pudding,    cro'quette, 

cutlet 45 

45  j  Muffin-cup,  English    ....  44 

,  Omelet-pan 36 

40    Palette  knife 52 


Poker 


56 


Potato-masher 42 


Puree  sieve,  coarse 


46 


946 


INDEX. 


KITCHEN    FURNISHING.  —  Continued. 


Page 

Roll-pans 35 

Salamander 51 

Sardine-shears 43 

Scales 37 

Scoop 41 

Sieves 46 

Sink-brush 57 

Sink-cleaner  .     .          ....  56 

Sink-rack 56 

Sink -shovel 56 

Skewers    .     .     . 
Skimmer  .     . 

Soap-shaker 57 

Soup-digester 33 

Spice-box 41 

Spoons,  wooden 53 


Page 

Strainer 45 

Strainer,  flannel 55 

Strainer,  handled 45 

Strainer,  tapering 41 

Strainer,  teapot 46 

Timbale-irons.  Swedish    ...  50 

Tin  utensils 32 

Towel-rack 56 

Tunnels 41 

Vegetable-cutters 49 

Waffle-iron 34 

Whisk,  wire 53 

Wire  dish-covers    ....  54 

Wood-pulp  ware 36 

Wooden  hands  (for  shaping  but- 
ter)      63 


CARE    OF    UTENSILS    AND    KITCHEN 
FURNITURE. 


INTRODUCTION 58 

Forks,  steel 61 

Garbage-barrel 61 

Knives,  steel 61 

Odors,  to  remove,  from  utensils  60 

Range 62 

Range,  coal,  amount  of    ...  64 

Range,  dampers 63 

Refrigerator 61 


Sand,  us-e  of  ... 
Sapolio  .... 
Scour  dishes,  how  to 
Soft  soap  .... 

Stove 

Towels 

Wash  dishes,  how  to 
Washing-soda    .     . 
Wooden-ware     .     . 


58 
50 
56 
U 

02 
58 
59 
0C 

BO 


ABOUT    FOOD. 


INTRODUCTION 

Arrowroot 

CANNED  GOODS 

Anchovies 

Anchovy  essence      .... 

Anchovy  paste 

Canned  goods  a  blessing  .     . 

Caviare,  Russian      .... 

Cepes 

Danger,  sources  of  .... 

Foie  gras 

Mushrooms 

Peas,  French 

Suggestions  to  housekeepers  . 

Tests  of  wholesomeness    .     . 

Truffles 

Cassia 

CEREALS 

Corn  meal 

Flour 


66 
97 

Graham      

Grits      .     .     . 

93 
96 

8-1 

Hominy      .     . 

95 

88 

88 

Rye  flour    
Rye  meal 

93 
93 

88 
87 
88 

Wheat  germ  meal    .     .     . 
Cinnamon      
Condiments    

95 
100 
98 

89 
86 

Curry-powder      .... 

99 
99 

89 
89 

Pepper  
Fillets 

99 
81 

86 

FISH 

80 

90 

Crawfish     

81 

85 
89 

Lobsters     
Prawns  

80 
81 

100 

Shrimp  

80 

qo 

FLAVORS  

91 

94 
92 

Cordials     
Curacoa 

91 
91 

INDEX. 


947 


ABOUT    FOOD. —  Continued. 


Page 
91 
91 
91 
92 
84 


Eau  de  vie  de  Dantzic  .     . 

Maraschino 

Noyau 

Rum 

Food,  frozen  

Fruits 71 

.Game 78 

Gelatine 98 

Macaroni 97 

Italian  paste 97 

Spaghetti 97 

MEAT  AND  FISH 82 

Fish       82 

Meats 83 

Poultry 83 

When  "they  are  good     ...  82 

MEATS 72 

Chops,  porterhouse  ....  76 

Fillet 74 

Fillet,  short 72 

Mutton 77 

Sirloin  roast 73 

Steak,  entrecote 74 

Steaks,  chuck 75 

Steaks,  short 74 

Tongues 78 

Sweetbreads 78 

Veal  cutlets 76 

Veal,  fillet  of 75 

Veal,  fricandeau  of  ....  75 

Molasses 96 

Olive  oil 96 

Relishes 90 


Chutney,  India 

Olives 

Soy 

Summer  salads  and  sweet  herbs 

How  to  get  them  from  one's 
own  garden 

Plant,  time  to 

Tapioca 

VEGETABLES  

Asparagus 

Barbe  de  Capucin    .... 

Borage 

Broccoli 

Brussels  sprouts 

Cauliflower 

Celeriac 

Chervil 

Cress 

Egg-plant 

Escarole 

Fetticus 

Garlic '. 

Kohl-rabi 

Lettuce,  lamb's 

Monk's  beard 

Okra 

Onions,  Spanish 

Peppers,  sweet  Spanish     .     . 

Rocambole 

Salsify 

Shallot 

Sorrel 

Tarragon 


Page 

90 

91 

91 

100 

100 
101 
97 
66 
67 
70 
71 
68 
67 


71 
70 
68 
70 
71 
69 
68 
71 
70 


69- 


70 
71 


SOUPS. 


Artichoke,  cream  of    ....  152 

Asparagus 135 

Barley 125 

Barley  and  milk 150 

Barley,  cream  of 149 

Bean" 132 

Beef,  bisque  of 146 

Beef  for  stock 109 

Beef,  shin  of 126 

Beef,  with  barley 125 

Bisque,  crab  .' 165 

Bisque,  crab  and  tomato  .    .     .  164 

Bisque,  lobster 166 

Bisque  of  beef 146 

Bisque  of  clams 164 


Bisque  of  mutton 
Bisque  of  oysters 
Bouillon  .  .  . 
Bread,  cream  of . 
Brown  .  . 


145 
167 
114 
149 
124 


Carrot 139 

Carrots,  pure*e  of 140 

Cauliflower,  cream  of      ...  147 

Cauliflower,  pure*e  of  ....  144 

Chestnut 158 

Chicken .129 

Chicken  gombo 130 

Clam .     .  162 

Clam  chowder 160 

Clam  chowder,  Danbury .     .     .  161 

Clam,  Wadsworth 163 

Clams,  bisque  of 164 

Clams,  cream  of 163 

Clear  soups 105 

Cleared,  how  soups  are    ...  106 

Consomme* 116 

Consomme*    a  la  royale.     (See 

."  Royal  custard  "  in  chapter 

on  "  Garnishes.") 

Consomme,  chicken     ....  118 


948 


INDEX. 


SOUPS.  —  Continued. 


Pa^e 

Consomme,  simple 117 

Consomme"  with  asparagus  tops  120 

Consomme"  with  barley    .     .     .  119 

Consomme  with  force-meat  balls  119 

*  Consomme"  with  green  peas  .     .  120 

Consomme  with  macaroni    .  119 

Consomme"  with  poached  eggs  120 

Consomme"  with  protiteroles  .  119 

Consomme  with  quenelles    .  120 

Consomme  with  rice    .     .     .  118 

Corn 157 

Crab  and  tomato  bisque  .     .  164 

Crab  bisque 165 

Cream  of  artichoke      .     .     .  152 

Cream  of  barley      ....  149 

Cream  of  bread 149 

Cream  of  cauliflower   .     .     .  147 

Cream  of  clams 163 

Cream  of  macaroni      ....  147 

Cream  of  rice 148 

Cream  of  sago 149 

Cream  of  tapioca 149 

Fish  chowder 159 

Garbure  a  la  printaniere  .     .     .  137 

Green  corn  and  tomato    .     .     .  141 

Grouse,  puree  of 156 

Imperial 153 

Julienne 121 

Lobster  bisque 166 

Macaroni  and  tomato  ....  142 

Macaroni,  Cream  of     .     .     .     .  147 

Mock  turtle 127 

Mutton,  bisque  of    .     .         .     .  145 

Noodle 151 

Normandy 137 

Notes,  miscellaneous  ....  113 

Okra 132 

Okra  and  rice 132 

Oyster .168 

Oyster  gombo     .......  131 

Oysters,  bisque  of 167 


Page 

Palestine 153 

Pea 134 

Pea,  green 135 

Potato 157 

Poulette 150 

Poultry  for  stock 110 

Puree  of  carrots 140 

Pure"e  of  cauliflower     ....  144 

Pure"e  of  grouse 156 

Pure"e  of  spinach 144 

Pure"e  of  tomatoes 143 

Puree,  Scotch 133 

Remnants  of  meat,  value  of  .     .  107 

Rice  and  milk 150 

Rice  and  tomato 142 

Rice,  cream  of 148 

Sago 126 

Sago  and  milk 150 

Sago,  cream  of 149 

Scotch  broth 146 

Scotch  puree 133 

Sorrel 136 

Spaghetti 129 

Spinach,  puree  of 144 

Spring 139 

St.  Germain 134 

Stock 108 

Stock,  beef  for 109 

Stock  made  with  shin  of  beef   .  113 

Stock,  materials  for    ....  105 

Stock,  meats  for Ill 

Stock,  poultry  for 110 

Stock,  simplest  way  of  making  104 

Tapioca  and  milk 150 

Tapioca,  cream  of 149 

Thickening  for  soups  ....  Ill 

Tomato 141 

Tomatoes,  puree  of      ....  143 

Turkey 129 

Velvet 155 


FISH. 


Bass 

Bass,  fillet  of,  breaded      . 
Bass,  striped,  boiled    .     . 
Black  bass,  boiled  .     .     .     , 
Black  fish,  fillet  of,  breaded 

Bluefish 

Cakes,  fish 

Clams,  roast 

Clams,  stewed  .... 
Codfish  cutlets  .... 
Crabs,  baked .  . .  ..  ,  , 


180 
191 
191 
191 
191 
180 
202 
219 
220 
195 


Crabs  baked  in  bell  peppers . 
Crabs,  broiled  s«fg$hell  •  • 
Crabs,  deviled  '/  if.  .  .  . 
Crabs,  fried  soft-shell  .  •  • 
Crabs,  soft-shell  .  .  .  . 

Croquettes,  fish 

Escaloped  fish 

FISH 

Boiling  • 


227 
223 
223 
222 
222 
203 
196 
170 
170 


Flavor,  strong,  how  to  renuwe  170 
Fillet,  how  to 172 


INDEX. 


949 


FISH.  —  Continued. 


188 
203 
180 
195 
183 
187 
186 
181 
181 
18-3 
184 
182 
185 

184 
191 
202 
202 
191 
224 
226 
224 
224 


Page 

Rechauffe. 197 

Serve,  how  to      ......     172 

Flounder,  fillets  of,  au  gratin    .     189 

Flounder,    fillets  of,   baked   in 
wine 189 

Flounder,  fillets  of,  breaded      .     191 

Flounder,  fried 190 

Flounder,  turbans  of,  breaded   .     187 

Flounder,     turbans     of,     with 
anchovies 

Frogs'  legs,  fried     .     .     . 

Haddock    ...... 

Haddock  a  la  creme 

Halibut  a  la  Creole      .     . 

Halibut  a  la  maitre  d'hotel 

Halibut  au  gratin    .     .     . 

Halibut,  baked  ..... 

Halibut,  boiled 

Halibut,  broiled 

Halibut,  carbonade      .... 

Halibut,  chicken,  baked  .    .     . 

Halibut,  fillets  of,  a  la  poulette 

Halibut,  fillets  of,    baked,  with 
cream  sauce 

Halibut,  fillets  of,  breaded    .     . 

Halibut  fish  balls 

Herring,  smoked 

Lake  trout,  boiled 

Lobster,  curry  of 

Lobster  cutlets 

Lobster,  deviled 

Lobster,  fricassee  of    .... 

Lobster  Newburg 

Mackerel,   baked    salt,    cream 
sauce      

Mullet,  baked 

Mullet,  broiled 179 

OYSTERS 205 

Ovsters  a  la  Duxelles  .     ...     216 

Oysters  a  la  poulette  .     .     .  '.     209 

Oysters  a  la  villeroi     ....    217 

<  )vsters  au  gratin 211 

( )Vsters,  baked,  a  la  Duxelles   .     216 

<  >ysters,  broiled 213 

(  fysters  cooked  in  chafing-dish      219 

( >ysters,  curried 208 

Oyster  cutlets 210 

Oysters,  escaloped  .  •  .     .     .     .     212 

Oysters,  fried 208 

Oysters,  griddled    .     .     .     /  .     214 

Oyster  kabobs 218 

Oysters  on  toast 214  I 


Page 

Oysters,  raw,  how  to  serve  .     .  207 

Oysters,  saut<§     ......  207 

Oysters,  spindled    .....  213 

Oysters,  stewed  ......  207 

Oysters,  stuffed  ......  215 

Prawn,  deviled  ......  224 

Red  snapper,  baked 
Red  snapper,  boiled 


178 
177 
191 
201 
200 
198 
201 
199 


Rock-bass,  fillet  of,  breaded 
Salmon,  smoked,  broiled       .     . 

Salmon,  spiced 

Salt  fish  and  eggs  in  cream  .     . 

Salt  fish,  broiled 

Salt  fish  in  cream 

Salt  fish  in  cream,  with  puree  of 

potatoes 198 

Scallops,  deviled     .....  220 

Scallops,  fried 221 

Scallops  fried  in  batter    ...  221 

Shad,  baked 179 

Shad,  broiled ISC 

Shad  roe,  baked  in  tomato  sauce  204 
Shad    roe,    baked    with    cream 

sauce ,     .  204 

Shad  roe,  fried 204 

Sheep's-head 180 

Sheep's-head,  boiled    ....  191 

Shrimps  baked  in  bell  peppers  226 

Shrimps,  deviled 224 

Shrimps,  escaloped      ....  227 

Smelts,  broiled 191 

Smelts,  stuffed 192 

225  |  Sprats,  dried 201 

|  Sturgeon 175 

200  |  Sturgeon,  baked 176 

179  !  Sturgeon,  boiled 175 

Sturgeon  cutlets 177 

Sturgeon,  sauce  for     ....  *176 

Sturgeon  steaks 177 

Terrapin 228 

Terrapin  au  gratin       ....  231 

Terrapin  brown  stew  ....  230 

Terrapin  white  stew    ....  229 

Toast,  fish 200 

Turbans  of  fish,  with  oysters    .  188 

Turbot 192 

Turbot  au  gratin 194 

Turbot,  boiled 193 

White-fish 180 

White-fish,  boiled 191 

White-fish,  fillet  of,  breaded     .  191 


950 


INDEX. 


VARIOUS    MODES    OF    COOKING    MEAT. 


Page 

INTRODUCTION 232 

Bacon,  fried 273 

Bacon,  fried,  Southern  fashion  .  273 

Beef  collops,  savory    ....  249 

Beef,  corned,  hashed  ....  278 

Beef,  creamed 256 

Beef,  curry  of 261 

Beef,  curry  of,  simple      .     .     .  254 

Beef,  frica'ssee  of  cold  roast       .  255 

Beef,  frizzled 256 

Beef,  frozen,  shaved   ....  250 

Beef,  hashed,  on  toast      ...  256 

Beef  pastie 252 

Beef,  rolled  flank  of,  cold     .     .  247 

Beef,  rolled  flank  of,  hot      .     .  248 

Beef  sausages 250 

Beef,  savory 246 

Beef  stew 244 

Beefsteak  pie 251 

Boiling 234 

Braising 243 

BROILING 237 

Clear  coals  needed  ....  237 

Time  of  cooking       ....  238 

Brunswick  stew 271 

Force-meat  cakes 281 

Fricandelles       249 

FRYING 238 

Clarifying,  processes  of    .     .  239 

Fat,  hot 243 

Fat,  how  to  keep      ....  242 

Fat,  how  to  use 240 

Prying-basket 241 

Time  of  cooking  various  arti- 
cles       241 

GAME 294 

Birds,  small,  in  crumbs    .     .  304 

Ducks,  roast 301 

Grouse,  broiled 304 

Partridge,  broiled    ....  304 

Partridge,  roast 302 

Ptarmigan,  broiled  ....  304 

Ptarmigan,  roast      ....  302 

Prepare,  how  to 288 

Rabbit,  jugged 306 

Snipe,  barded  and  roasted     .  305 

Venison  cutlets 300 

Venison,  fillets  of    ....  301 

Venison,  hashed 299 

Venison,  ragout  of  ....  300 

Venison,  roast  leg  of    ...  296 
Venison,    saddle    of,    larded 

and  roasted 297 

Venison  steak  cooked  in  the 

chafing-dish 299 

Venison  steaks 298 

Woodcock,  roast,  on  toast     .  303 


Page 

Ham,  broiled 276 

Ham  cakes 283 

Ham,  deviled 283 

Ham,  deviled,  boiled  ...  284 

Ham,  roast 286 

Ham,  roast,  stuffed     .     .     .  286 

Hash,  baked 277 

Hash,  corned-beef  ....  278 

Hash,  meat  and  potato     .     .  280 

Hash,  tongue 279 

Hash,  turkey 279 

Hash,  vegetable 280 

Irish  stew 270 

Kidneys  k  la  Tartar    ....  277 

Kidneys,  crumbed       ....  276 

Kidneys,  saute 277 

Lamb,'  broiled  breast  of   ...  265 

Lamb,  curr\  of 261 

Lamb,  fricassee  of,  with  baked 

dumplings 266 

Lamb,  leg  of,  a  la  jardiniere     .  265 

Lamb,  ragout  of  cold  ....  267 

Lamb,  stuffed  fillet  of ....  269 

Lamb  warmed  in  curry  sauce  267 

Liver  and  bacon,  fried     .     .     .  273 

Liver,  calf's,  blanquette  of  .     .  274 

Liver,  calf's,  in  cream  sauce     .  274 

Liver  hash 275 

Liver  in  cream  sauce  ....  275 

Liver,  lamb's,  saute    ....  275 

Macaroni-and-meat  pie    ...  251 

Mount  Desert  stew       ....  283 

Mutton,  boiled  leg  of  .     .     .     .  268 

Mutton,  broiled  breast  of      .     .  270 

Mutton,  currv  of 261 

Mutton,  deviled 272 

Mutton,  escaloped 272  ! 

Mutton,  fillet  of,  stuffed  ...  269 

Mutton,  ragout  of 270 

Mutton,  stuffed  and  rolled  shoul- 
der of    268 

Pig,  roast 286 

Pigs'  feet,  broiled 285 

Pigs'  feet,  fried 285 

Pork  chops 285 

Pot  roast 245 

POULTRY  AND  GAME,  HOW  TO 

PREPARE 288 

Capon  a  la  jardiniere   ...  294 

Capon,  boiled 293 

Capon,  roast 294 

Chickens 294 

Turkey,  boiled 289 

Turkey,  braised 292 

Turkey,  roast 290 

Turkev,  roast,  with  chestnut 

stuffing 291 


INDEX. 


951 


VARIOUS   MODES   OF   COOKING   MEAT. — 

Continued. 


Page 

Turkey,  truffled 290 

ROASTING 234 

Rules,  genera] 235 

Time  of  cooking 236 

Sausages,  baked 281 

Sausages,  baked  rice  and      .     .  281 

Shepherd's  pie 252 

Steaks,  Hamburg 248 

Stew,  beef 244 

Stew,  Brunswick 271 

Stew,  Irish 270 

Stew,  Mount  Desert    ....  283 

Timbale  of  cold  meat  ....  253 

Tongue  hash 279 


Page 

Tripe,  broiled 286 

Turkey  hash .279 

Turkish  pilaf 282 

;  Veal,  blanquette  of      ....  260 

Veal,  braised  shoulder  of      .     .  257 

Veal,  brown  fricassee  of  ...  259 

Veal,  curry  of 261 

Veal,  fillet  of,  stuffed  ....  269 

Veal,  jellied 263 

i  Veal  loaf 264 

;  Veal,  loin  of,  a  la  jardiniere      .  258 

I  Veal,  minced,  on  toast     ...  262 

.  Veal  pillau 260 

j  Veal,  terrapin 262 


ENTREES. 


Anchovy  canapes 396 

Anchovy  patties 377 

Anchovy  toast 398 

Apple  fritters 389 

Apricot  fritters 390 

Aspic  de  foie  gras 386 

Aspic  of  chicken 387 

Aspic  of  lobster 388 

Aspic  of  shrimp 388 

Aspic  of  sweetbreads  ....  388 

Baked  croquettes 384 

Banana  fritters 389 

Batter  for  fruit  fritters     .     .     .  388 

Beef,  fillet  of 307 

Beef,  fillet  of,  a  la  Bearnaise     .  308 
Beefsteak,  with  fried  Spanish 

onions 312 

Blanquette  of  chicken  and  mac- 
aroni        339 

Breslau  of  cold  meat    ....  324 

Calves'  brains,  breaded    .     .     .  326 

Calves'  brains,  escaloped      .     .  327 

Canapes 396 

Canapes,  anchovy  ....  396 

Canapes,  caviare 397 

Canapes,  sardine 397 

Canapes,  smoked  salmon      .     .  397 

Caviare  canapes 397 

Cepes,  broiled 395 

Cepes,  stewed 395 

Chestnut  croquettes     ....  382 
Chicken  a  la  Duxelles     ...  341 
Chicken  a  la  Marengo      .     .     .  343 
Chicken    and    mushroom    cro- 
quettes    381 


Chicken-and-rice  pie  ....    337 

Chicken,  aspic  of    .....    387 

Chicken  cutlets  ......     345 

Chicken  fared,  supreme  of  .     .     350 
Chicken,  fricassee  of,  brown      .    339 
Chicken,  fricassee  of,  white      .     340 
Chicken,  fried,  and  cauliflower     330 
Chicken,  jellied  ......    342 

Chicken  legs,  a  la  jardiniere 
Chicken  legs,  k  la  Villeroi  . 
Chicken-liver  timbale  .. 
Chicken  pie 

Chicken  pie,  to  be  served  cold 
Chicken  rissoles 


Chicken  stew,  with  dumplings 
Norfolk 


346 
348 
358 
334 
335 
376 
331 


with 


Chicken    stew, 

dumplings  .......  333 

Chicken,  stewed      .....  332 

Chicken,  supreme  of,  a  la  Pa- 

risienne      .......  351 

Chicken,  terrapin    .....  340 

Chicken  timbales    .....  358 

Chicken,  walled      .....  337 

Chops,  lamb,  in  paper  cases      .  322 

Chops,  veal    .......  321 

Corn  fritters  .......  392 

CROQUETTES      ......  377 

Croquettes,  baked  .....  384 

Croquettes,  chestnut    ....  382 

Croquettes,  chicken  and  mush- 

room     ........  381 

Croquettes,  meat-and-hominy  .  382 

Croquettes,  mutton      ....  '381 

Croquettes,  rice,  a  la  Parmesan  384 

Croquettes,  sauce  for,  brown  .  386 


952 


INDEX. 


ENTREES.  —  Continued. 


Ptge 

Croquettes,  sweetbread    .     .     .  380 

Croquettes,  sweet-potato .     .     .  383 

Custard  fritters  . 390 

Cutlets,  chicken 345 

Cutlets,  lamb,  crumbed    .     .     .  322 

Cutlets,  mutton,  a  la  Maintenon  323 

Cutlets,  pigeon 367 

Cutlets,   turkey,  with  chestnut 

puree      .     .* 346 

Deviled  duck,  wet 394 

Deviled  turkey,  dry     ....  394 

Devils  .     .     . 393 

Duck,  deviled,  wet 394 

Duck,  salmi  of 368 

Fillet  of  cooked  partridges    .     .  365 

Fillet  of  grouse 367 

Fillet  of  partridge 365 

Fillet  of  partridge  a  la  jardiniere  367 

Fillet  poultry  and  game,  how  to  348 

Fillet  steaks*  a  la  Chateaubriand  309 

Fillet  steaks  with  olives  .     .     .  308 

Fish  timbales 359 

Fricandeau  of  veal      ....  318 

Fricassee  of  chicken,  brown       .  339 

Fricassee  of  chicken,  white  .     .  340 

Fritters,  apple 389 

Fritters,  apricot 390 

Fritters,  banana 389 

Fritters,  batter  for  fruit   .     .     .  388 

Fritters,  corn 392 

Fritters,  custard 390 

Fritters,  grape 390 

Fritters,  orange 389 

Fritters,  peach 390 

Fritters,  pear 390 

Fritters,  pineapple 390 

Fritters,  royal     .    w  ....  391 

Galantine  of  fowl 363 

Game,  fillet  of 367 

Game  timbales 359 

Grape  fritters 390 

Grenadins  of  fillet  of  beef     .     .  309 

Grouse,  fillet  of 307 

Honeycomb  timbale    ...     .  358 

Imperial  vol-au-vent   .  373 

Italian  vol-au-vent 372 

Jellied  chicken 342 

Lamb  chops  in  paper  cases  .  .  322 
Lamb  cutlets,  crumbed  .  .  .  322 
Legs  of  chicken  a  la  jardiniere  .  346 
Liver  force-meat  border,  gar- 
nished with  poultry  scallops  .  362 
Lobster,  aspic  of  .  *  ....  388 

Macaroni  timbales 357 

Macaroni  timbale  a  la  Milanaise  361 

Marrow-bones 313 

Meat-and-hontiny  croquettes     .  382 


Mutton  croquettes 

Mutton  cutlets  a  la  Maintenon  . 
Norfolk  dumplings      .... 
Noukles  a  la  Viennoise    .     .     . 
Olives  stuffed  with  anchovy 
Olives  stuffed  with  chicken  .     . 

Orange  fritters 

Ox  palates 

Ox  palates  a  la  poulette  .  .  . 
Ox  palates,  breaded  .... 
Ox  palates,  broiled  .... 
Ox  palates,  curry  of  .... 
Ox  palates,  with  mushrooms 
Ox  tails,  stewed,  with  turnips  . 
Parisian  vol-au-vents  .... 

Partridge,  fillet  of 

Partridge,  fillet  of,  a  la  jardiniere 
Partridge,  fillet  of,  cooked    .     . 

Pattie  cases 

Patties,  anchovy 

Patties,  various' kinds  of  .  .  . 
Paupiettes  of  fillet  of  beef,  with 

mushrooms 

Paupiettes  of  fillet  of  beef,  with 

olives 

Peach  fritters 

Pear  fritters 

Pigeon  cutlets     . 

Pineapple  fritters 

Poultry  and  game,  how  to  fillet 
Rice  croquettes  a  la  Parmesan  . 

Rissoles     

Rissoles,  chicken     .... 

Royal  fritters 

Royal  vol-au-vent 

Salmi  of  duck 

Salmon  timbales 

Sardine  canapes 

Scotch  woodcock 

Shrimp,  aspic  of 

Smoked  salmon  canapes  .     .     . 

Spaghetti  timbales 

Supreme  of  chicken  a  la  Parisi- 

enue       ........ 

Supreme  of  chicken  farce     .     . 
Swedish  timbales    ..... 

Sweetbread  croquettes     .     .     . 
Sweetbread  timbales   .... 

Sweetbreads,  aspic  of .... 

Sweetbreads,  braised  .... 

Sweetbreads,  spindled  .  .  . 
Sweetbreads  with  brown  sauce 
Sweet-potato  croquettes  .  .  . 

Terrapin  chicken 

TIMBALES 

Timbales  a  la  financiere  .  .  . 
Timbales,  chicken 


Page 
381 
323 
334 
392 


389 
315 
317 
316 
317 
317 
318 
314 
371 
365 
367 
365 
368 
377 
371 

312 

•311 
390 
390 
367 
391' 
348 
384 
376 
376 
391 
371 
368 
359 
397 
398 
388 
397 
357 


351 

350 
359 
380 
355 
388 
329 
329 
328 
383 
340 
353 
356 
3f>3 


INDEX. 


953 


ENTREES.  —  Continued. 


Timbales,  chicken-liver  .     .     . 

Timbales,  lish 

Timbales,  game 

Tirnbales,  honeycomb      .     .     . 

Timbales ,  macaroni     .... 

Timbales,  macaroni,  a  la  Mila- 
naise 

Timbales,  salmon 

Timbales,  spaghetti     .... 

Timbales,  Swedish      .... 

Timbales,  sweetbread  .... 

Tiuabales,  veal 

Tongue,  braised,  a  la  jardiniere 

Tongues,  lambs',  braised       .     . 

Tongues,  sheep's,  brown  fricas- 
see of  . 


Page  Page 

358  i  Turkey  cutlets   with    chestnut 

359  pure"e 346 

359    Turkey,  deviled,  drv  .     .     .     .  394 

358  !  Turkey,  vol-au-vent  of    ...  372 
:!57    Veal  chops 321 

Veal  cutlets  a  la  Francaise  .     .  320 

361    Veal  timbales 358 

359  Vol-au-vent  baked  in  a  mould  .  370 

357  Vol-au-vent  case,  large     ...  369 
359    Vol-au-vent,  imperial  .     .     .     .  373 
355  j  Vol-au-vent,  Italian    ....  372 

358  Vol-au-vent  of  turkey      .     .     .  372 

324  Vol-au-vent,  Parisian  ....  371 
326    Vol-au-vent,  royal 371 

Vol-au-vents,  various  kinds  of  .  370 

325  I  Woodcock,  Scotch 398 


CHEESE    DISHES. 


Au  gratiu 399 

Cottage  cheese 404 

Deviled  biscuit 404 

Fingers 405 

Fondue      .     . 400 

Golden  buck 403 

Puffs 402 


Roasted  cheese 402 

Souffle's,  small 399 

Straws 403 

Swiss  ramequin » .  400 

Toasted  cheese   .     .         ...  40^ 

Yorkshire  rare-bit       ....  40* 


DISHES    OF    EGGS. 


INTRODUCTION  ......    4U6 

Au  gratin  ........     414 

Baked  .......       407,  411 

Boiled  .........     406 

Cases,  in    ........     416 


Cuban 

Curried 

Dropped 

Escaloped 

Farce" 

Force-meat,  in 


413 

410 
408 
410 
415 
413 


Griddled   ........  409 

Lyonnaise  ........  409 

tf  ests  on  toast    ......  415 

OMELETS  ........  417 

Asparagus  .......  422 


Baked    ....  42C 

Cheese 424 

Chicken 424 

Fish 422 

Green-pea 421 

Ham .424 

Jelly 425 

Mushroom 423 

Oysters 424 

Plain 420 

Tomato 424 

Poached 407 

Spanish 413 

Swiss 412 

Timbales  .         408 


INTRODUCTION  . 

Cheese  .  .  . 
Chicken  .  .  . 
Dressing,  cooked 


SALADS. 

.    426  ;  Dressing,  cream     .....  428 

.     439    Dressing,  Mayonnaise      .     .     .  427 

.     429  I  Egg  .    .     .     .*     ......  438 

Lobster      ........  430 


428 


954 


INDEX. 


SALADS.  —  Continued. 


Marguerite 438 

Orange 438 

Oyster 430 

Shrimp 431 

Sweetbread 429 

VEGETABLE 431 

Aguacate 435 

Beet 438 

Cabbage 437 


Page 

French 432 

Lettuce 434 

Mace'doine 433 

Onion  and  lettuce    ....  435 

Peppers .     .  437 

Potato 433 

Salsify 437 

Spinach 436 


GARNISHES. 


Anchovy  force-meat   ....  454 

Aspic  jelly 458 

Bread,  Boston  brown,  fried  .     .  443 

Bread,  crisped 443 

Bread,  fried 442 

Bread,  toasted 444 

Chicken,  essence  of     ....  460 

Chicken  force-meat  balls      .     .  445 

Chicken-liver  force-meat .     .     .  452 

Chicken  quenelles 455 

Chicken  ragout 457 

Crackers,  crisped 443 

Egg  balls 444 

Essence  of  chicken      ....  460 

Financiere  ragout 456 

Fish,  garnishes  for      ....  440 

Fish  force-meat 454 

FORCE-MEAT 450 

Force-meat,  anchovy   ....  454 

Force-meat,  chicken-liver     .     .  452 

Force-meat,  fish 454 

Force-meat,  game 454 

Force-meat,  oyster 454 


!  Force-meat,  veal 453 

|  Game  force-meat 454 

Game,  ragout  of 457 

Glaze 459 

Marinade 459 

Marinade,  cooked 460 

Marinade,  raw    ......  460 

Oyster  force-meat 454 

j  Potato  border 450 

Profiteroles 445 

Pur^e  a  la  Bretonne    ....  449 

Pure"e  of  cauliflower    ....  447 

Pure"e  of  chestnuts 449 

Pure'e  of  spinach 448 

Pure'e  of  tomatoes 448 

Purees  of  vegetables    ....  447 

Ragout,  chicken 457 

Ragout,  financiere 456 

Ragout  of  game 457 

Rice  border 449 

Royal  custard 444 

Veal  force-meat 453 

Vegetables,  combinations  of      .  446 


MEAT   AND    FISH    SAUCES. 


INTRODUCTION 462 

Allemand 471 

Anchovy 477 

Anchovy  butter 478 

Asparagus     ......  475 

Bearnaise 472 

Bechamel  yellow 470 

Bread 482 

Breton 481 

Brown 467 

Brown,  clear 468 

Brown,  for  fish 468 

Butter 482 

Caper 487 

Chateaubriand 464 


Chestnut  brown           ....  474 

Chestnut  white 474 

Claret 485 

Cranberry 488 

Cranberry  jelly 488 

Cream  .  * 482 

Currant  jelly 485 

Dutch  . 471 

Duxelles 465 

Egg 482 

Financiere 464 

Hollandaise 472 

Horseradish ..485 

Lobster 476 

Lob&ter  butter 478 


INDEX. 


955 


MEAT    AND    FISH    SAUCES.  —  Continued. 


Madeira 465 

Matelote 484 

Mint 488 

Mushroom  brown 465 

Mushroom,  simple 466 

Mushroom  white 466 

Mustard  cream 484 

Mustard,  hot 484 

Olive  brown 465 

Orange 486 

Oyster 475 

Parsley 487 

Piquant 486 

Poulette    . 470 


Page 

Ravigote 473 

Ravigote  butter 473 

Remoulade 480 

Shrimp 477 

Shrimp  butter 478 

Simple,  for  poultry     ....  468 

Soubise     .    . 481 

Spanish 463 

Supreme 466 

Tartar  butter 480 

Tartar  green 479 

Tomato 483 

Venison 465 

White  .                             .    .    .  4i9 


VEGETABLES. 


INTRODUCTION 489 

Best  if  cooked  soon  after  pick- 
ing        490 

Neglect  to  gather  soon  enough  489 
Points  to  be  remembered  .    .  490 
When  vegetables  may  be  ap- 
propriately used    .     .     .  492 

Classification 496 

With  beefsteak     ....  494 

With  corned  beef      ...  494 

With  fish 493 

With  mutton  and  lamb      .  494 

With  pork 495 

With  poultry  and  game      .  495 

With  roast  feef    ....  493 

With  veal 495 

A  la  jardiniere 528 

Artichoke   bottoms   with   Hol- 

landaise  sauce 535 

Artichoke,  French 532 

Artichoke  quarters  with  Dutch 

sauce 534 

Artichokes,  stuffed      ....  534 

Asparagus,  boiled 515 

Asparagus  points 515 

Asparagus  with  eggs  ....  515 

Beans,  baked 543 

Beans,  stewed 545 

Brussels  sprouts  in  cream  sauce  523 

Brussels  sprouts  saute      .     .    .  523 

Cabbage,  creamed 521 

Cabbage,  escaloped     ....  522 

Cabbage,  stewed 522 

Carrots,  stewed 510 

Carrots  with  cream  sauce     .     .  509 

Cauliflower 520 

Cauliflower,  escaloped     ...  521 


Corn  and  tomatoes,  escaloped  .  520 

Corn,  canned 518 

Corn,  green,  boiled     .         .  518 

Corn,  green,  in  cream           .  518 

Cucumbers,  stuffed     .         .  531 

Cucumbers,  wilted      .         .  530 

Curry  of  vegetables    .          .  529 

Egg-plant,  baked 526 

Egg-plant,  fried 525 

Egg-plant,  stuffed 526 

Hominy,  baked 543 

Lima  beans 519 

Macaroni 537 

Macaroni  a  la  Milanaise  .     .     .  539 

Macaroni  with  brown  sauce       .  538 

Macedoine  of  vegetables .     .     .  527 

Mushrooms 535 

Mushrooms,  baked      ....  536 

Mushrooms,  broiled     ....  536 

Mushrooms,  stewed     ....  535 

Mushrooms  stewed  in  cream     .  536 

Mushrooms,  stuffed     ....  537 

Noodles 541 

Okra,  boiled 523 

Onions,  creamed     .....  511 

Onions,  escaloped 512 

Onions,  stuffed 512 

Parsnip  fritters 511 

Parsnips,  fried   ......  511 

Parsnips  with  butter  sauce  .     .  510 

Peas,  French 516 

Peas,  green 516 

Peppers,  stuffed 525 

POTATOES 496 

Potato  balls 504 

Potato  balls  with  cream  sauce  .  505 

Potato  cakes 505 


956 


INDEX. 


VEGETABLES.  —  Continued. 


Page 

Potato  chowder 507 

Potato  omelet 499 

Potato  timbale 504 

Potatoes  au  gratin 500 

Potatoes,  boiliug 497 

Potatoes,  casserole  of  ....  503 

Potatoes,  creamed 500 

Potatoes,  dry  stew  of  .     .     .     .503 

Potatoes,  Duchess 498 

Potatoes,  escaloped      ....  499 

Potatoes,  hashed  and  browned  .  501 
Potatoes,  hashed  and  browned, 

in  cream  sauce 501 

Potatoes,  hashed,  in  cream  .     .  500 

Potatoes,  Lyonnaise    ....  506 

Potatoes,  princess 498 

Potatoes,  roasted 505 

Potatoes,  Saratoga 506 

Potatoes,  saute"d 507 

Potatoes,  stewed 502 

Potatoes,  sweet,  escaloped    .     .  509 

Potatoes,  sweet,  French  fried    .  508 

Potatoes,  sweet,  fried  ....  508 


Page 

Potatoes,  sweet,  glazed    .     .     .  509 
Potatoes    wanned    in    chicken- 
gravy     502 

Rice,  boiled 541 

Rice,  boiled,  Southern  style      .  542 

Rice,  curry  of 542 

Rice,  Turkish 542 

Salsify  a  la  poulette    .     .     .     .  517 

Salsify,  boiled 516 

Salsify,  fried 517 

Sauces,  vegetables  in  .     .     .     .  530 

Spaghetti  &  1'Italienne     ...  539 

Spaghetti  and  cheese  ....  540 

Spinach  a  la  creme      ....  524 

Succotash 519 

Tomato  fritters 614 

Tomatoes,  baked 513 


Tomatoes,  breaded 
Tomatoes,  broiled 
Tomatoes,  sliced 
Tomatoes,  stewed 
Turnips,  ragout  of 


513 
513 
514 
512 

530 


Turnips,  stewed 510 


SPECIAL    ARTICLES. 


BOILED  DINNER 563 

Meat,  cooking 563 

Vegetables,  preparation  of  the  564 

BRIOCHE  PASTE 546 

Baba 548 

Brioche  fritters 550 

Brioche  loaf,  to  be  eaten  plain 

and  hot 547 

Savarin 549 

Wine  cakes 549 

Calf's-brain  force-meat  balls     .  557 

Calf's  head,  curry  of  ....  557 

Calf's  head,  jellied      ....  558 

Calf's  head,  terrapin  fashion     .  555 
CALF'S  HEAD,  VARIOUS  WAYS 

OF  USING  A 554 

Calf's  head  with  bisque  sauce    .  556 

Curry,  Honolulu    .     .     .     .     .  553 

Curry,  Madras  ......  552 

Curry  powder  and  its  uses    .     .  551 


MEATS,  THE  WARMING  OVER  OF  559 

Cold  meat  au  gratin      .     .     .  562 
Cold  meat  warmed  in  brown 

sauce 561 

Cold  meat  warmed  with  mac- 
aroni   561 

Cold  meat  warmed  with  mush- 
rooms        561 

Duck,    cold,    warmed    with 

olive  sauce 562 

Hashed  meat  on  toast  .     .     .  562 

Sauce,  brown  ......  561 

Sauce,  white 561 

SALT-FISH  DINNER,  A   ...  565 

Beets,  cooking  the   ....  566 

Egg  sauce 568 

Fish,  preparation  of  the    .     .  566 

Pork  scraps,  making    .     .     .  567 

Serving  the  dinner  ....  568 
Vegetables,  what  to  do  with 

the                                        .  567 


A    GROUP    OF    SIMPLE    DISHES. 


Adirondack   strawberry    short- 
cake        570 


Bread  griddle-cakes 


575 


Buckwheat,  cakes 573 

Cream  waffles 571 

Graham  mush 580 


INDEX. 


957 


A   GROUP  OF   SIMPLE   DISHES.  — Continued. 


Granulated  yellow-meal  mush 
Griddle-cakes,  bread  .  .  . 
Griddle-cakes,  graham  .  . 
Griddle-cakes,  green  corn  . 
Griddle-cakes,  Indian  .  . 
Griddle-cakes,  rice  .  .  . 
Griddle-cakes,  sweet-milk  . 

Hominy 

Hominy,  fried 

Hominy  snowflakes 

Hominy  waffles 

Indian  griddle-cakes    .     . 

Indian  waffles 

Oatmeal 

Oatmeal,  baked  .... 
Peach  short-cake  .... 
Pearled  wheat  mush  .  .  . 
Rice  griddle-cakes  .... 
Rolled  wheat  mush  .  .  . 


Page  Page 

580  Rye  mush 580 

575  Strawberry  short-cake      .     .     .  570 

575  Strawberry  short-cake,  Adiron- 

576  dack 570 

574  Sweet-milk  griddle-cakes      .     .  574 

575  Toast    . 581 

574    Toast,  butter 581 

579    Toast,  cream 581 

579    Toast,  French 583 

579    Toast,  milk 582 

572    Toasted  crackers 582 

574  Toasted  pilot  bread      ....  583 
572    Waffles,  cream 571 

576  Waffles,  hominy 572 

577  Waffles,  Indian 572 

569  Waffles,  raised  wheat ....  571 

581  Wheat  germ  mush      ....  578 

575  Wheat  waffles,  raised  ....  571 
580 


PIES. 


Apple  pie 588 

Apple  tart 589 

Chantilly  tarts  ......  599 

Chocolate  cream  pie    ....  597 

Cream  cheese  tart 599 

Cream  pie 596 

Currant  tarts 591 

Gooseberry  tart 590 

Lemon  cre'am  pie 594 

Line  plates  for  pies,  how  to       .  592 

Mince-meat 600 

Mince-meat,  cheap      ....  602 


Mince-meat,  plain 601 

Orange  cream  pie 595 

Orange  pie 


Paste,  plain,  for  pies 
Potato  pie  ... 
PUFF  PASTE  .  . 
Puff  paste,  chopped 
Pumpkin  pie  .  . 
Rhubarb  pie  .  .  . 
Squash  pie  ... 
Swiss  apple  tartlet  . 
Washington  pie 


587 
598 
584 
587 
593 


PUDDINGS. 


INTRODUCTION  ......  603 

COLD  PUDDINGS. 

Alpine 650 

Banana  cream 656 

Bird's-nest 656 

Cabinet 643 

Chantilly 642 

Chestnut 646 

Chocolate 607 

Cream 663 

Cream  meringue 654 

Custard .659 

Custard  me'ringue    ....  658 

Farina 664 

Flummery 662 


Imperial     . 648 

Leche  crema 663 

Marquise 638 

Meringue,  cream      ....  654 

Me'ringue,  custard   ....  658 

Me'ringue,  strawberry  .     .     .  654 

New  York  rice 661 

Oatmeal 664 

Orange 659 

Orange  snow 647 

Orleans 647 

Peaoh-and-rice 612 

Peach  cream 656 

Pineapple 652 

Pineapple  cream      ....  656 


958 


INDEX. 


PUDDINGS.  —  Continued. 


Page 

Queen 653 

Rice  balls  with  soft  custard  .  661 

Rice,  frozen 640 

Rice,  glazed 641 

Rice,  iced,  a  1'Impe'ratrice     .  639 

Rod  gro 657 

Silver-and-gold 649 

Snow 664 

Strawberry 652 

Strawberry  meringue   .     .     .  655 

Sunset 649 

Sweet  pure"e  of  chestnuts  with 

whipped  cream     ....  645 

Tapioca  cream 657 

Velvet 653 

HOT  PUDDINGS. 

Apple-and-bread      ....  622 

Apple-and-rice 621 

Apple,  baked 616 

Apple,  Canadian     ....  618 

Apple  custard 620 

Apple  duff 621 

Apple  dumplings,  baked  .     .  620 

Apple,  layer 618 

Apple,  rolled 617 

Apple,  steamed 616 

Apple,  stewed 619 

Baked  Indian 628 

Berry,  baked 614 

Berry,  batter 614 

Berry,  Medford 615 

Berry,  steamed 613 

Blueberry 614 

Bread 607 

Bride's 608 

Brown 628 

Brown  Betty 622 

Brown  cap 622 

Cherry,  boiled 611 

Chocolate 607 

Corn-starch 604 

Cottage 624 

Cottage,  steamed     ....  624 

Farina 604 

Feather 625 

French  pancakes      ....  631 

Fritters,  German      ....  632 

Fritters,  peach,  k  la  Dauphine  632 

Fritters,  Portuguese     ...  633 

German  fritters 632 

German  puffs 626 

Graham 625 

Indian,  baked 628 

Medford  berry 615 

Minute 606 

Pancakes,  French    ....  631 


Page 

Peach-and-rice 612 

Peach-and-tapioca   ....  613 

Peach  fritters  a  la  Dauphine  632 

Plum 630 

Plum,  delicate 630 

Portuguese  fritters  ....  633 

Prune 608 

Quaking 629 

Queen  puffs 627 

Rice,  boiled 606 

Rice  caramel 605 

Rice,  plain 606 

Sago,  boiled 613 

Snowballs 627 

Souffles .  634 

Dishes  to  be  used      ...  634 

Fruit 636 

Lemon 636 

Omelet 635 

Omelet  a  la  Celestine     .     .  638 

Orange  omelet      ....  637 

Rum  omelet 637 

Vanilla  omelet      ....  635 

Sponge 625 

Sponge  batter 623 

Sponge  roly-poly     ....  610 

Steamed  batter 623 

Steamed  black 615 

Steamed  roly-poly   ....  610 

Tapioca      ." 613 

SAUCES. 

Brandy 665 

Brown  cap 666 

Champagne,  iced     ....  672 

Chocolate 671 

Cinnamon 669 

Cold 666 

Cream 666 

Egg 667 

Golden 667 

Iced  champagne 672 

Iced  Madeira 672 

Iced  orange 672 

Iced  rum 672 

Lemon 667 

Lemon  cream 668 

Madeira,  iced 672 

Molasses 670 

Nutmeg 669 

Orange,  iced 672 

Rum,  iced 672 

Sabayon 668 

Strawberry 669 

Wine 665 

Wine,  clear 666 


INDEX. 


959 


DESSERT. 


Almond  velvet  cream      .    .     . 

Apple  float 

Apple  sauce,  dinner    .     .     .     . 
Apple  sauce,  evaporated  .    .    , 

Apple  trifle 

Apples  baked  with  butter    .     . 

Apples,  coddled 

Apples,  crystallized     .     .     .     . 
Apples,  glazed,  with  cream 

Apples,  iced 

Apples,  stewed,  with  cream 
Bananas  and  whipped  cream    . 
Bananas,  baked      .     .     .     .     . 
Bavarian  orange  charlotte    .     . 
Blanc-mange,  chocolate  .     . 
Blanc-mange,  corn-starch    . 
Blanc-mange,  fruit      . 
Blanc-mange,  Taganrok  .     .     . 
Burnt  almond  charlotte   .     .     . 

Caledonian  trifle 

Cantaloupe  charlotte  .     .     .     . 

Caramel  custard 

Charlotte,  Bavarian  orange 
Charlotte,  burnt  almond       .     . 
Charlotte,  cantaloupe       .     . 
Charlotte,  coffee      .     .     .     .     . 

Charlotte,  orange 

Charlotte  russe 

Charlotte  russe  in  paper  cases  . 
Charlotte  russe  on  a  bed  of  jelly 
Charlotte  russe  without  cream  . 
Charlotte,  strawberry       .     . 
Chocolate  blanc-mange    .     .     . 

Coddled  apples 

Coffee  charlotte 

Corn-starch  blanc-mange      .     . 
Crystallized  apples      .     .     .     . 

Custard,  caramel 

Custard,  orange 

Custard,  simple  soft    .     .     .     . 

Custard,  tapioca 

Custard,  wine 

FROZEN  DISHES 

Apples,  frozen 

Biscuit  tortoni 

Blackberries,  frozen      .     .     . 

Granites 

Granite,  coffee 

Granite,  orange  .     . 

Granite,  raspberry  . 

Ice-cream,  arrowroot 

Ice-cream,  biscuit    . 

Ice-cream,  blueberry 

Ice-cream,  chestnut 

Ice-cream,  chocolate 

Ice-cream,  coffee 


Page 
728 
718 
739 
740 
719 
737 
737 
736 
736 
735 
735 
734 
735 
721 
733 
732 
732 
733 
722 
719 
724 
731 
721 
722 
724 
725 
720 
725 
727 
727 
726 
723 
733 
737 
725 
732 
736 
731 
730 
731 
729 
730 
674 
692 
686 
691 
689 
691 
690 
690 
677 
679 
681 
680 
678 
678 


Ice-cream,  gelatine  ....  677 

Ice-cream,  Neapolitan       .     .  678 

Ice-cream,  peach      ....  680 

Ice-cream,  Philadelphia    .     .  676 

Mousses 681 

Mousse,  caramel      ....  684 

Mousse,  chocolate    ....  682 

Mousse,  coffee 684 

Mousse,  Neapolitan      ...  685 

Mousse,  peach 683 

Mousse,  strawberry      .     .     .  683 

Peaches,  frozen 692 

Raspberries,  frozen  ....  691 

Roman  punch 688 

Sherbets 686 

Sherbet,  blackberry     ...  688 

Sherbet,  currant    * ....  688 

Sherbet,  lemon 687 

Sherbet,  orange 687 

Sorbets 689 

FROZEN  RAW  FRUITS    ...  692 

Apricots 694 

Cantaloupe 693 

Oranges 693 

Oranges  and  bananas  .     .     .  693 

Peaches 693 

Watermelon 693 

Fruit  blanc-mange 732 

FRUITS 694 

Almonds,  caramel    ....  700 

Almonds,  glazed      ....  700 

Almonds,  salted       ....  699 

Almonds,  sugared    ....  700 

Blackberries 696 

Blueberries 696 

Cantaloupe 695 

Cherries 697 

Chestnuts,  roasted   ....  701 

Combinations  of  fruits      .     .  697 

Crystallized  fruit     ....  696 

Currants 696 

Iced  fruit 701 

Mace"doine  of  fruit  ....  716 

Nuts,  serving 699 

Oranges  and  bananas  .     .     .  696 

Peaches 697 

Pineapple 695 

Raspberries 695 

Strawberries 695 

Watermelon 694 

Glazed  apples  with  cream    .    .  736 

Iced  apples 735 

JELLIES 702 

Apples,  jellied 715 

Clear,  how  to 703 

Coffee  jelly 709 


960 


INDEX. 


DESSE 

Combination  jelly    .... 
Dantzic  jelly  

RT. 

Page 
708 
710 
708 
710 

711 
711 
705 
704 
713 
705 
707 
706 
714 
714 
716 
712 

CA 

742 

743 
742 

766 
752 
758 
764 
772 
769 
760 
772 
748 
747 
748 
772 
773 
774 
775 
774 
751 
750 
768 

768 
767 
770 
768 
766 
771 
769 
765 
749 

—  Continued. 

Page 
712 
707 
728 
720 
730 
716 
741 
738 
739 
738 
739 
723 
720 
733 
729 
729 
730 

757 

755 
763 
764 
761 
756 
749 
766 
745 
751 
750 
770 
749 
744 
745 
747 
745 
765 
767 
752 
775 
778 
777 
778 
778 
777 
779 
779 
778 
777 
778 

Wine  jellv      

Maraschino  Bavarian  cream     . 
Orange  charlotte    
Orange  custard       

Maraschino  jelly      .... 
Maraschino  jelly  with  angel- 

Peach  chartreuse    
Peach  sauce,  evaporated  .     .     . 
Pears,  baked  
Prunes,  stewed  

Maraschino  jelly  with  peaches 
Moulding  and  serving  .     .     . 
Moulds,  removal  from  .     .     . 
Neapolitan  jelly 

Orange  baskets    
Orange  jelly  

Rhubarb  sauce  ...... 
Strawberry  charlotte  .... 
Strawberry  trifle     
Taganrok  blanc-mange    . 
Tapioca  cream    
Tapioca  custard      
Wine  custard          

Oranges,  jellied  
Peaches  jellied 

JNTRODUCTION   

KE. 

Lemon  jelly  

Mocha  

Neapolitan     
October     .     
Othello      

Blueberry  

Bread    

Chocolate            

Portsmouth  orange      .     .     . 

Cocoanut  

Cream  cookies    

Quaker  sponge  
Raised  loaf 

rirnllflrft 

Scotch  cakes  

Delicate 

Doughnuts,  dropped    .... 
Doughnuts,  plain   

Sponge  fingers,  white  .... 
Sponge  quaker  

Tea   hot    

Trov  molasses    
Twelfth  Night   

Fiff  loaf                            • 

ICE  AND  DECORATE,  How  TO  . 
Boiled  icing    

Gingerbread,  Bath  soft  molasses 
Gingerbread,  Buffalo  soft  mo- 

Chocolate  icing  
Cocoanut  icing    

Gingerbread,  delicate  molasses 
Gingerbread,  muster  .     . 
Gingerbread,  soft  molasses 
Gingerbread,  soft  sugar  . 
Gingerbread,  sugar  card  . 
Ginger-snaps      .... 
Ice-cream  
Lemon  cakes      •     . 

Cream  icing    
Fondant  icings    
Fruit  fondant  icings     .     .     . 
Orange  icing  ...... 

Wine  icing      

INDEX. 


961 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  AND  MUFFINS. 


Page 

BISCUIT,  cream 797 

Biscuit,  cream-of-tartar   .     .     .  796 

Biscuit,  dropped 798 

Biscuit,  split 793 

Biscuit,  velvet 794 

BREAD,  buttermilk      ....  785 

Bread,  corn 803 

Bread,  corn,  Baltimore    .     .     .  802 

Bread,  corn,  Florida   ....  802 

Bread,  corn,  white 803 

Bread,  entire  wheat          .     .     .  783 

Bread,  graham   .               ...  784 

Bread,  ground  rice            .     .     .  801 

Bread,  hominy   .               ...  804 

Bread,  Indian    .               ...  800 

Bread,  Indian,  steamec     ...  800 

Bread,  potato     .               ...  782 

Bread,  pulled     .              .     .     .  7S6 

Bread,  quick  Swedish      ...  798 

Bread,  rye 784 

Bread,  water 781 

Brown  bread 799 

Brown  bread,  English      ...  799 

Brown  bread,  Maiden ....  800 

Buns,  Bath 795 

Buns,  currant 795 

Buns,  hot  cross 794 

Corn  bread 803 

Corn  bread,  Baltimore    ...  802 

Corn  bread,  Florida    ....  802 

Corn  bread,  white 803 

Corn  cake,  rice 805 

Corn  cake  spider 805 

Corn  cake,  thin 804 

Corn  dodgers 806 

Corn  muffins 806 

Corn  muffins,  Trenton     ...  807 

Cream  muffins 808 

Crumpets 814 

Drop  cakes,  wheat 816 

Federal  loaf 786 

Fried  raised  cakes 817 

Gems,  wheat 815 

Graham  muffins,  fried     .     .     .  811 


Page 

Graham  muffins,  Kentucky  .     .  810 

Graham  muffins,  raised  . "  .     .  809 

Graham  puffs 810 

Hominy  bread 804 

Hominy  muffins 808 

Indian  bread 800 

Indian-bread  brewis    ....  801 

Indian  bread,  steamed     .     .     .  800 

Johnny-cake 804 

Lapland  cakes 816 

MUFFINS  cooked  on  the  griddle  813 

Muffins,  corn 806 

Muffins,  cream 808 

Muffins,  Elmira 808 

Muffins,  entire-wheat ....  809 

Muffins,  graham,  fried     .     .     .  811 

Muffins,  graham,  raised  .     .     .  809 

Muffins,  granulated-wheat    .     .  809 

Muffins,  hominy 808 

Muffins,  Kentucky  graham  .     .  810 

Muffins,  luncheon 815 

Muffins,  oatmeal,  baked  .     .     .  812 

Muffin?,  oatmeal,  fried    ...  812 

Muffins,  rice 807 

Muffins,  Trenton  corn      .     .     .  807 

Oatmeal  muffins,  baked  .     .     .  812 

Oatmeal  muffins,  fried     .     .     .  812 

Parker  House  rolls      ....  787 

Pop-overs,  rye 817 

Poverty  cakes 816 

Rice  muffins 807 

ROLLS,  luncheon 792 

Rolls,  Parker  House    ....  787 

Rolls,  potato 790 

Rolls,  Washington 789 

Rolls,  White  Mountain    .     .     .  791 

Rye  pop-overs 817 

Scotch  oat  cakes 812 

Wheat  drop  cakes 816 

Wheat  gems 815 

YEAST 780 

Yeast,  hop 780 

Yeast,  hop-and-potato      .     .    .  781 


BEVERAGES. 


Broma 824  j  COFFEE 819 

CHOCOLATE 822  I  Coffee,  boiled 820 

Coffee,  Creole 822 

Coffee,  filtered 821 

Coffee,  to  roast 820 

Refreshing  drink,  a 


Chocolate,  plain 823 

Chocolate,  rich 823 

COCOA,  breakfast 824 

Cocoa,  cracked 824 

Cocoa  shells 824 

Cocoatiua.     ...  .     .  824 


Soda  cream 825 

1  TEA.  A  CUP  OF 818 

61 


962 


INDEX. 


PRESERVING. 


INTRODUCTION 

General  directions,  a  few       . 

Jars  to  use,  what  kind  of      . 

Utensils  needed 

Apple  jelly 

Apples  and  quinces,  canned  . 

Apples,  canned 

Barberry  jelly 

Blackberries,  canned  .... 
Blackberries,  pickled  .... 
Blackberries,  preserved  .  .  . 
Blackberries  preserved  without 

cooking 

Blackberry  cordial  .... 

Blackberry  jam 

Blackberry  jelly  ..... 

Brandied  fruit 

Chow-chow 

Chow-chow,  Albany  ...  . 
Chow-chow  of  ripe  cucumbers 

and  onions 

Chutney,  American  .... 

Chutney,  India 

Corn  and  tomatoes,  canned  .  . 

Crab-apple  jelly 

Cucumber  pickles 

Currant  jelly 

Currants,  spiced 

Grape  jelly 

Grapes,  spiced 

Green  grape  jelly 

Green  tomato  soy 

India  chutney 

JELLIES 

Jelly,  apple 

Jelly,  barberry 

Jelly,  blackberry 


Page  Page 

827  Jelly,  crab-apple 840 

828  Jelly,  currant 837 

828    Jelly,  grape 840 

828    Jelly,  green  grape 839 

840    Jelly,  peach 840 

834  Jelly,  quince 840 

835  Jelly,  raspberry 840 

840    Ketchup,  tomato 850 

835  Mace"doine  preserve     ....  831 

843  Okra  and  tomatoes      ....  845 
834    Peach  jelly 840 

Peach  marmalade 835 

833    Pear  preserve 830 

842  Pickle,  combination     ....  847 

836  Pickles,  cucumber 846 

840    Pineapple,  preserved  ....  834 

836  Quince  jelly 840 

847  Raspberries  preserved   in   cur- 

848  rant  juice 832 

Raspberries  preserved  in  their 

849  own  juice 832 

849    Raspberries  preserved  without 

849  cooking 833 

844  Raspberry  jam 836 

840    Raspberry  jelly 840 

846    Raspberry  syrup 841 

837  Raspberry  vinegar      ....  842 

843  Strawberries  preserved  in  their 

840        own  juice 832 

843    Strawberries  preserved  without 

839  cooking 833 

850  Succotash 845 

849    Syrup,  to  make  and  clarify      .  829 

837    Tomato  ketchup      .     .     . "  .     .  850 

840  Tomatoes,  canned 844 

840    Tomatoes,  whole,  how  to  can    .  843 
840 


FOOD    FOR   THE    SICK. 


INTRODUCTION 852 

Apple  water 867 

Arrowroot  gruel 865 

Bacon,  broiled 856 

Barley  soup 863 

Barley  water 867 

Beef  croquettes 855 

Beef  extract 859 

Beef  juice 860 

Beef  sandwiches 855 

Beef  tea 859 

Beef  tea,  frozen 860 

Beefsteak 853 

Blanc-mange 873 


|  Brandy,  burnt 876 

I  Broth,  chicken 861 

i  Broth,  clam 861 

Broth,  mutton 861 

Buttermilk 866 

i  Caudle      . 865 

i  Chicken  broth 861 

!  Chicken  jelly 862 

I  Chop,  victimized 854 

Chops,  plain  broiled    ....  855 

Clam  broth 861 

Codfish,-broiled  salt    ....  857 

Constipation,  simple  cure  for    .  876 

Cracker  gruel 864 


INDEX. 


963 


FOOD    FOR    THE    SICK.  —  Continued. 


Cream-of-rice  soup      .     . 
Cream-of-tartar  whey  . 
Cream  toast   .     .     .*  .     . 

Crust  coffee 

Currant  water  .... 
Custard,  soft  .... 

Egg  nog 

Egg  tea 

Exotique  jelly  .... 
Exotique  pudding  .  .  . 
Fish,  broiled  .... 
Flaxseed  lemonade  .  . 

Game 

Graham  gruel  .... 
Graham  wafers  .... 
Grouse,  broiled  breast  of 
Gruel,  arrowroot  .  .  . 

Gruel,  cracker 

Gruel,  flour 865 

Gruel,  graham 864 

Gruel,  Indian  meal      ....     864 

Gruel,  oatmeal 865 

Ice-cream 874 

Indian  meal  gruel 864 

Indigestion,  simple  cure  for      .     876 
Jelly,  Charlotte  Cushman's      .    862 

Jelly,  chicken 862 

Jelly,  exotique 872 

Jelly,  restorative    .     .     .     .     .    873 

Jelly,  tapioca 872 

Koumiss 870 

Lemon  moss,  a  drink  for  the 

lungs 870 

Lemon  sherbet 875 

Lemon  whey 866 

Lemonade,  "flaxseed    ....    868 

Macaroni  soup 863 

Milk  punch 869 

Milk  toast 871 

Mulled  wine 868 

Mutton  broth 861 

Mutton  juice 860 

Oatmeal  gruel 865 

Oatmeal  mush 875 

Orange  sherbet 875 

Oyster  roast 858 


Page  Page 

862    Oyster  stew 858 

866  Oysters  roasted  in  the  shell       .  858 

871  Oysters,  steamed 858 

868  Partridge,  broiled  breast  of  .     .  856 

867  Quail  on  toast 856 

873    Rice  porridge 864 

869  Rice  soup 863 

869    Rice  water 867 

872  Sago  soup 863 

872    Salt  fish  in  cream 857 

857    Sherbet,  lemon 875 

868  Sherbet,  orange 875 

855  Sippets 861 

864  Squab  on  toast 856 

871  I  Soup,  barley 863 

856  Soup,  cream-of-rice      ....  862 

865  Soup,  macaroni 863 

864    Soup,  rice 863 

Soup,  sago 863 

Soup,  tapioca 863 

Sour  milk  whey 866 

Steak,  round 854 

Tamarind  water      .     .     . 


Tapioca  jelly 
Tapioca  puddi 


ding 


866 
872 
872 
863 
871 


Tapioca  soup 
Toast,  cream 

Toast,  milk 871 

Toast,  water 871 

Toast  water 868 

Venison  steak 855 

Vinegar  whey 866 

Water,  apple 867 

Water,  barley 867 

Water,  currant 867 

Water,  rice 867 

Water,  tamarind 866 

Water,  toast 868 

Water  toast 871 

Whey,  cream-of-tartar    ...  866 

Whey,  lemon 866 

Whey,  sour  milk 866 

Whey,  vinegar 866 

Wine,  mulled 868 

Winewhev 865 


WHAT  ALL   HOUSEKEEPL  XS   SHOULD 
KNOW. 


Beating  and  stirring,  about .  .  880 

Bread  crumbs,  how  to  dry    .  .  887 

Bread  crumbs,  how  to  fry    .  .  887 

Bread  crumbs,  how  to  grate  .  886 

Bread,  how  to  butter  and  roll  .  885 


Breading  articles  for  frying, 
about 888 

Butter  for  greasing  pans,  how 
to  wash.  .  .?....  882 

Butter-hands,  how  to  use     .     .    882 


964 


INDEX. 


WHAT    ALL    HOUSEKEEPERS    SHOULD 
KNOW.  —  Continued. 


Butter,  how  to  cream  ....  882 

Caramel,  how  to  make    ...  890 

Chervil,  how  to  dry    ....  893 
Chervil    vinegar,  the    way  to 

make $ 

Cochineal,  liquid,  how  to  pre- 
pare    895 

Cupful,  fractions  of  a,  how  to 

measure 877 

Devonshire  cream,  what  it  is, 

and  its  uses 894 

Fat  boils  over,  what  to  do  if     .  896 
Food  in  a  refrigerator,  how  to 

keep 894 

Garlic  vinegar  is  made,  how    .  892 

Gelatine,  how  to  dissolve     .     .  888 

Lemon  sugar 890 

Lime  water,  how  to  make    .     .  893 

Lobster,  an  easv  way  to  kill  a  .  892 

Lobster  coral,  now  to  preserve  .  893 
Me*ringue,  how  to   make    and 

bake  a 885 

Olives,  how  and  when  to  serve  .  885 

Onion  juice,  how  to  get  .     .     .  891 

Orange  flower  sugar   ....  890 

Orange  sugar 889 

Orange  zest 889 


Page 
Oven  heat  when  baking,  good 

tests  of 878 

Oven,  points  about  the  use  of  the  878 

Parsley,  how  to  dry    ....  893 
Paste  or  batter  of  "flour  and  a 

liquid,  how  to  make  a  ...  879 

Raisins,  how  to  stone  ....  894 
Refrigerator,  food  in  a,  hovr  to 

keep 894 

Rose  sugar 890 

Sardines,  how  to  serve     .     .     .  885 

Soap,  soft,  how  to  make  ...  896 

Stirring  and  beating,  about .     .  880 

Sugar,  how  to  flavor  ....  889 

Sugar,  lemon 890 

Sugar,  orange 889 

Sugar,  orange  flower  ....  890 

Sugar,  rose 890 

Sugar,  vanilla 890 

Tarragon  vinegar,  how  to  make  892 
Thickening,  the  way  to  add,  to  a 

boiling  liquid 880 

Vegetable  balls,  how  to  make  .  883 
Vinegar,  chervil,  how  to  make  .  892 
Vinegar,  garlic,  how  to  make  .  892 
Vinegar,  tarragon,  how  to  make  892 
Weights  in  measure,  equiva- 
lents of 877 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


INTRODUCTION 898 

BILLS  OF  FARE. 

Christmas  dinners  ....  919 

Company  breakfasts    .     .     .  903 

Company  dinners    ....  910 

Company  luncheons     .     .     .  908 

Emergencies,  in 902 

Family  bills  for  all  seasons     .  921 

Game  dinner 912 

Gentlemen's  dinners    .     .     .  913 

Gentlemen's  suppers    .     .     .  914 

Lenten  fare 912 

One-o'clock  luncheon  .     .     .  906 

Oyster  supper 912 

Supper,  a  little 912 

Supper  for  a  dancing-party  .  915 

Supper  for  one  hundred  guests  915 

Thanksgiving  dinners  .     .     .  918 

Wedding  breakfasts    ...  917 

Breakfast 898 

BREAKFASTS,  COMPANY      .    .  903 

Spring  . 903 


Summer 903 

Fall 903 

Winter 903 

Breakfasts,  wedding  ....  916 

Christmas  dinners 917 

Bills  of  fare 919 

Company  breakfasts    .     .     .  903 

Company  dinners  and  suppers  909 

Company  luncheons    .     .     .  904 

Dinner,  game 912 

DINNERS,  COMPANY   .     .     .  909 

Spring  and  early  summer  .  910 

Summer  and  early  autumn  910 

Autumn  and  winter  .     .     .  911 

Winter 911 

Dinners,  gentlemen's  .     .     .  913 

Dinners,  simple  home      .     .  899 

Emergencies,  in 901 

Dinner  bills  of  fare  ...  902 
Luncheon  bills  of  fare  .     .  902 
What  to  serve  when  unex- 
pected guests  come    .     .     .  901 


INDEX. 


965 


BILLS    OF    FARE.— Continued. 


Page 

FAMILY  BILLS  OF  FARE  FOR 
ALL  SEASONS. 

January 921 

February 923 

March 925 

April 927 

May 929 

June 931 

July 933 

August       934 

September 936 

October 938 

November 940 

December 942 

Family  luncheons 899 

Game  dinner 912 

Gentlemen's  dinners   ....  913 

Spring 913 

Summer 913 

Fall 914 

Winter 914 

Gentlemen's  suppers   ....  914 

Lenten  fare 912 

Breakfast 912 

Company  dinners    ....  913 

Dinners 912 

Luncheon 912 

Supper 913 

LUNCHEONS,  COMPANY  .    .    .  904 
Bills  of  Fare. 

Spring 909 


Pag« 

Summer 909 

Fall 908 

Winter 908 

Decoration  of  the  table    .     .  905 

Finger-bowls 906 

One-o'clock  luncheon   .     .     .  906 

Bill  of  fare 906 

Time  for  cooking  and  serv- 
ing    908 

Oysters  and  soup      ....  904 

Plan  to  be  commended,  a  .     .  904 

Soup 904 

Wine,  use  of 904 

Luncheons,  family 899 

Lunches  for  tennis  parties    .     .  919 

Oyster  supper 912 

Party  suppers 915 

Dancing-party  of  fifty .     .     .  915 

Supper  for  one  hundred  guests  915 

Picnics,  what  to  take  to  .     .     .  921 

Spring,  changes  advisable  in   .  900 

Supper,  a  little 912 

Supper,  oyster 912 

SUPPERS,  COMPANY   ....  909 

Suppers,  gentlemen's  ....  914 

Tennis  parties,  lunches  for  .     .  919 

Thanksgiving  and  Christmas    .  917 
Warm     weather,    a    tempting 

table  in 900 

Wedding  breakfasts   ....  916 


NOTE. 


Housekeepers  are  reminded  that  the  receipts  which  are  starred  (*) 
are  for  simple  dishes.  They  are  also  advised  to  study  the  index  suffi- 
ciently to  become  familiar  with  it.  Not  all  the  dishes  of  meat  are  in- 
cluded in  the  chapter  on  "Various  Modes  of  Cooking  Meat."  Some 
will  be  found  among  the  entrees  and  in  the  chapter  on  "  Food  for  the 
Sick."  And  so  with  other  kinds  of  dishes.  The  index  to  a  cook- 
book should  be  of  great  value,  yet  the  average  housekeeper  does  not 
take  pains  to  become  well  enough  acquainted  with  it  to  avail  herself 
of  all  the  advantages  which  the  book  offers.  She  may  waste  many 


966  INDEX. 


precious  moments  searching  for  a  favorite  receipt  which  could  be 
found  without  the  least  delay  if  she  took  a  little  time  now  and  then 
to  study  the  index.  A  dish  may  be  entered  in  several  places,  yet  not 
be  found  just  where  some  housekeeper,  unacquainted  with  the  prin- 
ciples on  which  index-makers  work,  expects  to  find  it,  and  the  unfortu- 
nate conclusion  may  be  hastily  reached  that  the  book  does  not  contain 
the  receipt.  The  foregoing  index  has  been  carefully  prepared,  and  it  is 
hoped  that  all  who  use  the  KITCHEN  COMPANION  may  find  it  one  of 
the  most  helpful  departments. 


University  Press :  John  Wilson  &  Son,  Cambridge 


ROYAL 

BAKING 

POWDER 


Absolutely    Pure. 

Whenever  soda  and  cream-of-tartar  are  called  for  in  any  receipt  for 
cooking,  better  results  will  be  obtained  by  using  the  ROYAL  BAKING 
POWDER.  It  will  render  the  food  lighter,  sweeter,  and  more  palatable 
and  wholesome. 

The  ROYAL  BAKING  POWDER  avoids  all  decomposition  in  the  flour 
as  caused  by  yeast  raising,  thereby  saving  a  large  percentage  of  its  most 
nutritive  elements.  Food  raised  by  the  ROYAL  BAKING  POWDER  may 
be  eaten  while  hot  even  by  dyspeptics,  with  impunity. 

Mrs.  ELLEN  H.  RICHARDS,  Instructor  in  Sanitary  Chemistry  in  the 
Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology,  says  :  "  Baking  Powders  pre- 
pared from  soda  and  cream-of-tartar  chiefly  are,  when  put  up  in  tin  cans 
with  the  maker's  name  and  label,  much  more  reliable  than  any  other 
form  of  bread-raising  preparation." 

Miss  PARLOA,  writing  recently  to  a  friend  who  asked  her  opinion  of 
baking  powders,  said  :  "  I  should  hesitate  to  use  such  powders  freely 
without  first  being  satisfied  of  the  purity  of  the  ingredients  used  in 
making  them.  But  it  seems  to  me  that  the  ROYAL  BAKING  POWDER, 
which  is  manufactured  in  New  York,  is  as  good  as  any  can  be.  I  have 
used  it  a  great  deal,  and  always  with  satisfaction." 

U.  S.  Government  Chemist,  Prof.  H.  A.  MOTT,  after  analyzing  the 
chief  baking  powders  for  the  government,  reported:  "The  ROYAL 
BAKING  POWDER  is  absolutely  pure.  I  will  go  still  further,  and  state 
that  because  of  the  facilities  that  company  have  for  obtaining  perfectly 
pure  cream-of-tartar,  and  for  other  reasons  depending  upon  the  proper 
proportions  of  the  same,  and  the  methods  of  its  preparation,  the  ROYAL 
BAKING  POWDER  is  undoubtedly  the  purest  and  most  reliable  baking 
powder  offered  to  the  public." 

The  ROYAL  BAKING  POWDER  is  of  higher  strength  than  any  other 
powder,  and  therefore  more  economical  in  use. 


Established   A.&.  18O1. 


BKNT    &    CO., 


MANUFACTURERS    OF    THE 


AND    FANCY    BISCUITS. 


Guaranteed  absolute- 
ly PUEE.  Hand-Made 
from  Choicest  Flour. 
They  are  easy  of  diges- 
tion. 

Recommended  by  emi- 
nent physicians  on  both 
sides  of  the  Atlantic 
Ocean. 

Buy  only  the  Genuine, 
which  bear  the  stamp 
of  the  makers. 


The  finest  Crackers 
for  dessert. 

Used  at  all  the  first- 
class  Hotels. 

For  more  than  four- 
score years  these  Crack- 
ers have  been  un- 
equalled for  excellence, 
and  for  their  superior 
keeping  qualities. 

Sold  by  first-class 
grocers  everywhere. 


SEND   STAMP  FOR   OUR    REFERENCE   BOOK. 

BENT    &    CO.,     -    -     Milton,  Mass. 


BENT  &  CO.'S  CRACKER  MEAL 

is  one  of  the  most  extensively  used  articles  now  in  the  market, 
and  is  the  only  article  of  its  kind  manufactured  from  their  cele- 
brated Hand- Made  Water  Crackers,  which  are  the  purest  and  best 
crackers  made,  and  is  warranted  not  to  contain  any  acids,  grease, 
lard,  or  saleratus.  It  is  absolutely  pure,  and  will  keep  for  a  long 
time  ;  is  used  by  the  best  cooks  in  New  York  and  Boston,  and  very 
highly  indorsed  and  used  by  the  Boston  Cooking  School  as  the 
only  article  that  they  had  yet  found  that  came  up  fully  to  the  require- 
ments, in  which  to  fry  clams,  oysters,  cutlets,  etc. 

Bent  &  Co.'s  Cracker  Meal  is  put  up  in  i  Ib.  cartons,  and 
in  every  carton  is  enclosed  forty  receipts,  written  expressly  for 
BENT  &  Co.,  by  Mrs.  HESTER  M.  POOLE,  of  New  York,  who 
has  thoroughly  tried  every  receipt. 


ESTABLISHED   1780. 


WALTER    BAKER    &    CO., 

DOKCHESTER,   MASS., 
Manufactwers  of 


BAKER'S    PREMIUM 

NO.   I   CHOCOLATE. 

The  very  best  preparation  of  plain 
Chocolate  in  the  market,  for  home 
consumption  or  confectioners'  use. 


BAKER'S   VANILLA    CHOCOLATE 

Is  a  delicious  article,  possessing  the  pure 
rich  flavor  of  the  Cocoa  and  Vanilla  Bean, 
h  excellent  for  eating  or  drinking. 


IT  IS 
DELICIOUS. 


IT  IS 
REFRESHING. 


BAKER'S  BREAKFAST  COCOA, 

Warranted   absolutely  pure    Cocoa,  from 
which  the  excess  of  oil  has   been   removed 
Nourishing,  strengthening,  easily  digested. 
Costing  less  than  one  cent  a  cup. 


BAKER'S  BROMA. 


~ 


An  excellent  food  for  invalids,  very 
desirable  for  children,  and  unrivalled  in 
delicacy  and  aroma. 


rr  is 

NOURISHING*. 


GERMAN  SWEET  CHOCOLATE, 

A  well-made  cup  of  this  Chocolate  will  be  found  not  onl 
palatable,  but  nutritious  and  healthful. 


IT    IS    SOLD    EVERYWHERE. 


BURNETTS  STANDARD  EXTRACTS. 


Pre-eminently  superior.11  Parker  House, 

The  best  in  the  world."  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel, 

Used  exclusively  for  years."  Southern  Hotel, 

We  use  them  exclusively."  Riggs  House, 

We  use  no  other."  Grand  Pacific, 

The  Standard  Extracts."  Occidental, 


Boston. 

New  York. 

St.  Louis. 

Washington. 

Chicago. 

San  Francisco. 


THOUGHTFUL   PEOPLE   SHOULD   BEAD    THE  TESTIMONIALS 
BELOW  FROM   COOKS  OF  NATIONAL  REPUTATION. 


JOSEPH  BURNETT  &  Co.,  BOSTON: 

Gentlemen,  —  I  have  used  your  Extracts  for  years,  knowing  them  the  best 
to  be  found  in  the  market. 

MARIA   PARLOA, 

School  of  Cookery,  Treraont  Street. 


From     PROF.     BLOT. 

A  good  dish  is  often  spoiled  or  rendered  unpalatable  by  the  use  of  a  detest- 
ably cheap,  impure,  and  deleterious  Flavoring  Extract.  In  answer  to  inquiries 
from  the  ladies  of  my  various  classes,  I  invariably  reply  that  during  the  past 
two  years  of  my  lectures  on  cookery,  "I  certainly  prefer  those  prepared  by 
Joseph  Burnett  &  Co.,  of  Boston,  above  all  others." 

P.    BLOT. 


O.    W.    PACKER'S 

FAMILY 

"STANDARD" 

ICE-CREAM 
FREEKERS. 


The  superior  principles  upon  which  the  Standard  Freezers  are  con- 
structed, and  their  popularity  and  success,  have  earned  for  them  the  reputation 
of  being 

BEST  I0E-GREAM   FREEZERS 


ever  introduced,  and  they  have  been  awarded  the  highest  premiums.  No 
expense  is  spared  in  the  manufacture;  the  best  materials  only  ^are  used;  and 
improvements  have  been  introduced  by  which  strength,  durability,  neatness, 
and  efficiency  are  secured;  also,  the  perfection  and  simplicity  of  the  mechani- 
cal arrangements  guarantee  the  freezing  of  Cream,  Fruits,  Water  Ices,  etc.,  in 
the  shortest  possible  time  and  most  satisfactory  manner. 

Recommended  by  Miss  Parloa.    For  sale  by  dealers  in  House 
Furnishing  Goods  generally. 

CHARLES  W.  PACKER,  Manufacturer,  Philadelphia. 


"DRY  AIR"  AND  "COLD  WAVE" 

REFRIGERATORS 

ARE  THE  BEST  FAMILY  REFRIGERATORS  IN  THE  WORLD, 


Only  Gold  Medal,  over  all  Competitors  in  actual  practical 
trial,  at  World's  Cotton  Centennial  Exposition,  New 
Orleans,  L,a.,  1884-85. 

Highest  Medals  at  innumerable  expositions  throughout  the  land, 
Used  in  the  United  States  Army  and  Marine  Hospitals. 
The  modern  housekeeper  will  want  no  other  after   examining    the 
Baldwin. 

If  not  on  sale  in  your  vicinity  ask  your  dealer  to  procure  you  the  "  Baldwin." 
Do  not  let  dealers,  representing  other  refrigerators,  influence  you  against  purchas- 
ing the  "  Baldwin."  Insist  upon  seeing  the  "  Baldwin,"  and  if  you  cannot  procure 
through  your  regular  dealer  write  to  us,  and  we  will  send  you  descriptive  circulars, 
and  inform  you  as  to  the  best  way  for  you  to  procure  our  refrigerators. 


THE   BALDWIN   MANUFACTURING  CO., 

BUELINGTON,    VT. 


MAGEE    STANDARD 

RANGES  ANB   ST0VES 


Careful  preparation  of  food  will  avail  nothing  in  desired 
results  unless  supplemented  by  a  good  cooking  apparatus. 
A  good  cook  will  therefore  insist  on  the  best  stove  or 
range  as  a  "sine  qua  non." 

$3f-MISS    PARLOA  ALWAYS   USES   AND   RECOMMENDS 
THE    MACEE   AS    SUCH.  e=m 

Our  aim  is  to  produce  the  best  article  possible,  regardless 
of  cost,  knowing  from  long  experience  that  "  the  best  is  the 
cheapest "  in  every  way,  —  economy,  durability,  convenience, 
sure  baking  qualities.  All  are  obtained  in  the  highest  de- 
gree in  the  Magee  goods,  and  every  stove  is  warranted  in 
every  particular.  Be  sure  and  examine  them  carefully  before 
buying  any  other. 

For  sale  by  our  agents  throughout  the  United  States,  and 
manufactured  by 

THE    MAGEE    FURNACE    CO., 

32,  34,  36,  &  38  Union  St.,  19,  21,  23,  25,  &  27  Friend  St., 
BOSTON,    MASS. 

Foundries  at  Chelsea. 


LESSONS    IN    COOKING 


HP  HE  best  of  housekeepers  may  learn  something  from  others.     Those 
-^     who  have  had  wide  experience  may  yet  profit  themselves  consid- 
erably by  attending  a  lecture  on  cooking.     In  the  last  ten  years 

MISS    PARLOA 

has  given  almost  nine  hundred  public  lessons  at  her  Schools  of  Cookery 
in  Boston  and  New  York,  to  Harvard  medical  students,  pupils  in  semi- 
naries and  private  schools,  hospital  nurses,  and  others,  in  various  parts 
of  the  country.  She  is  prepared  to  make  new  engagements  and  to 
furnish  specimen  programmes,  estimates  of  expense  of  a  course,  etc.,  to 
ladies  who  may  desire  to  plan  for  the  giving  of  a  series  of  lectures  in  the 
city  or  town  in  which  they  reside. 

Her  practice  is,  in  brief,  to  read  some  of  her  own  tested  receipts,  and 
then  carefully  follow  them,  clearly  explaining  each  step,  and  answering 
any  questions  which  her  pupils  may  ask.  At  the  close  of  the  lesson  the 
dishes  which  have  been  made  are  served  to  the  audience. 

Address 

MISS    MARIA    PABLOA, 

Boston,  Mass. 

A  FEW  COMMENTS  OF   THE  PRESS. 

"  Miss  Parloa  stands  among  the  best  teachers  in  cookery.  She  cooks  with  her  own 
hands,  and  explains  as  the  work  goes  on.  Her  instructions  are  perfectly  clear,  and  she 
makes  no  fuss  about  her  work,  and  no  unnecessary  disorder,  however  many  dishes  she  has 
on  hand.  If  one  will  attend  a  lecture,  and  then  imagine  a  cook  undertaking  to  make  the 
same  variety  of  dishes  with  fifty  strangers  in  the  kitchen  watching,  and  asking  questions, 
one  will  see  the  difference  between  cooking  as  it  is  and  cooking  as  it  should  be  ;  and  yet 
Miss  Parloa's  whole  method  is  within  the  reach  of  any  intelligent  woman  ;  it  demands  no 
knowledge  of  art,  science,  or  literature ;  it  is  common-sense  and  experience  practically 
applied,  and  something  that  can  be  easily  learned." — Boston  Advertiser. 

"  The  lecturer  described  the  processes  by  which  delectable  dishes  may  be  most  cheaply 
and  excellently  made,  using  receipts  which  have  resulted  from  her  experiments.  The  dex- 
terity with  which  she  handled  the  various  culinary  implements  and  ingredients  won  much 
admiration." — New  York  Times. 

"  Miss  Parloa's  school  is  proving  itself  an  educative  centre  of  the  community  ;  cooking 
becomes  a  work  of  science  and  intelligence,  not  a  mere  ignorant  drudgery,  whose  results 
are  beyond  calculation  or  prophecy."—  Woman's  Journal. 

"  One  of  the  most  prominent  characteristics  of  these  lectures  of  Miss  Parloa  is  the 
absorbed  attention  which  every  one  of  her  listeners  gives  to  her  words  and  movements. 
They  seem  anxious  not  to  lose  a  word  either  o*"  her  clear  explanations  or  of  her  general 
advice  upon  housekeeping  affairs.  "  —  New  York  Tribune. 

"  Many  a  despised  article  of  food  will  be  restored  to  our  tables  through  Miss  Parloa's 
influence,  while  standard  meats  and  vegetables  will  appear  in  fresh  disguises  to  tempt  the 
palate.  Miss  Parloa's  classes  include  a  number  of  society  women  who  make  a  study  of 
cookery  for  the  purpose  of  enhancing  the  variety  of  their  frequent  dinner  parties.  They 
are  among  the  most  appreciative  and  grateful,  for  she  gives  them  in  every  day's  lesson 
enough  hints  to  help  them  through  a  whole  season  of  dinners."  — Buffalo  Courier. 


MISS  PARLOA'S  OTHER  BOOKS. 


MISS  PAELOA'S  NEW  COOK  BOOK 

AND  MARKETING  QUIDE. 

Oue  of   the    best  and  most  popular   Cook  Books    ever   issued. 
Over  fifty  thousand  copies  have  been   sold. 

1  vol.,  12mo,  cloth,  black  and  red $1.50 

1  vol.,  12mo,  kitchen  edition,  with  waterproof  cloth,  plain 

stamped 1.50 

"  It  is  sure  of  a  wide  and  instant  welcome  from  the  hundreds  of  house- 
keepers who  have  profited  by  the  author's  lectures  on  cookery,  and  by 
hundreds  of  others  who  have  not  been  so  fortunate.  It  is  marked  by 
strong  good  sense,  and  contains  a  large  number  of  receipts  in  every 
department  of  cookery.  The  directions  are  clear  and  concise,  and  the 
chapters  on  marketing  and  kitchen  furnishing  are  very  useful."  —  Boston 
Journal. 

"It  should  be  in  the  possession  of  every  housekeeper  in  the  land. 
The  author  is  thoroughly  skilled  in  everything  relating  to  cooking.  We 
cannot  too  highly  commend  this  volume."  —  Boston  Advertiser. 

"  This  is  a  book  that  every  mother,  every  housekeeper,  must  surely 
need.  It  is  to  the  autocrat  of  the  household  what  the  dictionary  is  to 
the  writer.  The  author  is  widely  known  as  a  thoroughly  practical  cook, 
and  as  a  popular  lecturer  in  the  gastronomic  art."  —  New  York  Star. 


CAMP    COOKERY. 
HOW    TO     LIVE     IN    A    CAMP. 

BY  Miss  PARLOA, 

Principal  of  the  New  York  Cooking  School,  and  Author  of  "  Miss 
Parloa's  New  Cook  Book." 

1  vol.,  18mo,  cloth 60  cents. 


Sent,  prepaid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

ESTES   &  LAUBIAT,  Boston,  Mass. 


LIBRARY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  BEFORE  CLOSING  TIME 
ON  LAST  DATE  STAMPED  BELOW 


1078^- 


,9;9 


JUN  1  2  1984 


